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THE ORIGINAL 




BUCKEYE 
COOK BOO 

AND 

PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING 

A COMPILATION OF CHOICE AND CAREFULLY TESTED RECIPES 
TRADE EDITION 



Trade Supplied by 

THE REILLY & BRITTON CO. 
CHICAGO 



WEBB PUBLISHING CO. 

St. Paul, Minn. 

1905 



LIERASY of OCORESS 
VWO CODies rfiXWyeo 

APR s mb 

Oopyrigni cjiiry 

Cu^SS CL^ XXc. >.v. 

OOP1 iJ. 



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PUBLISHERS' NOTICE 



"The Buckets Cook Book" needs no introduction. After going through nine 
editions and reaching a sale of over one million copies we offer a new Trade Edition 
of the original and only "Bcckeyk Cook Book" in a new and attractive binding 
which we feel assured will make the book more popular than ever. 



Copyright, 1S90, by Estelle W. Wilcox. 
Copyright, 1905. by Estelle W. Wilcox. 



To Those 
Hmcrican 1bou6e\vive5 

WHO 

Cannot Afford to Employ a French Cook.. 

this book is 

■RespectfuUs H>cMcatcD. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGES. 

Prepack 5-6 

Bread-Making . . 7-30 

Breakfast AND Tea Cakes 31-53 

Cake-Making 54-89 

Canning Fruits 90-101 

Canning Vegetables 102-104 

Catsups AND Sauces 105-124 

Cheese 125-139 

Confectionery 140-154 

Ceeams and Custards 155-169 

Souffles 170-174 

Drinks 175-197 

Eggs 198-216 

Fish 217-256 

Fritters AND Croquettes 267-277 

Fruits 298-317 

Game 318-337 

Griddle Cakes 338-343 

Ices and Ice-Cream 844-371 

Icing 372-377 

Jams and Jellies . . 378-394 

Meats AND Gravies 395-465 

Mush . 465-469 

MugHROOMS 470-474 

Pastry 475-500 

Pickles 501-514 

Potatoes 515-541 

Preserves 512-546 

Puddings and Sauces 547-562 

Salads 563-574 

Shell-Fish 575-586 

Soups 587-601 

Vegetables 602-613 

Bills of Fare . 614-620 

Weights and Measures 621-622 

Dining Room Dots 623-625 

Garnishes and Sauces 626-632 

Kitchen Wrinkles 633-638 

Fruit 638-640 

Cellar and Ice House 641-642 

How TO Use and Keep Meats ' 643-651 

Carving 652-656 

Hints foe the Well 657-661 

The Flower Garden 662-671 

Miscellaneous 672-674 

Index ^75-687 



PRKKACKi 



To those who possess "Practical Housekeeping," it is not neces. 
sary to offer an apology for presenting in another volume such new 
ideas and methods as have come to light, and after fair trial been 
found useful and helpful in the household since the publication of 
that book. It is always a great pleasure to a housewife who takes 
pride in a well ordered home and an attractive table, to be able to 
present new and wholesome dishes, and it is as important for her to 
have the latest and best information available in her department of 
the family work, as it is for the husband to keep abreast with all the 
new ideas which are brought to surface in his profession or calling. 
Such wonderful progress has been made in invention and scientific 
discovery, that the day laborer now has at his command more of the 
conveniences and comforts of life than the Kings themselves pos- 
sessed fifty years ago, and yet instead of calling a halt, progress in 
this direction is more and more marked every year, so that what 
were the luxuries of one decade become the necessities of the next. 
As the conditions of living improve, there are greater demands upon 
time in new directions, and it is not only convenient, but a sa\dng of 
both time and money to have at ready command the simplest and 
best recipes in cookery and instructions in the best methods in every 
department of housekeeping. Failures are costly, and experience is 
always so dearly bought that it is economy to buy the results of 
thousands of carefully conducted experiments, packed between the 
coyers of a book, rather than waste time and money in trials that 
may or may not prove successful. 

The arrangements of subjects treated, whenever practical, has 
been made in the simple order of the alphabet, and for the sake of 
still more ready reference a very full alphabetical index has been 



PREFACK. 



added, Whenever a recipe is given within another, by an addition 
of ingredients, it is indexed and marked by italics,' when one recipe 
which appears elsewhere in the book is referred to in another recipe 
the former begins with a capital letter. The instructions which pre- 
cede the recipes of each department have been carefully made up^ 
and are entirely trustworthy, and the recipes themselves are mostly 
new to print and well indorsed. The instructions should be care- 
fully read before any recipe, following them, is attempted. Several 
suggestive articles have also been introduced, which, though not be- 
longing strictly to cookery, bear such close relations to it that the 
fitness of their apppearance in the connection is evident. 

What is offered in this volume is practical and useful, the direc- 
tions are simple and may easily be understood and followed, and the 
index is so full and the arrangement so simple that anything wanted 
may be readily found. It is submitted to the housekeeping public, 
and more especially to those who have found valuable help in "Prac- 
tically Housekeeping," with confidence that it will be found worthy 
of constant use in their daily round of duties. 



BREAD-MAKING. 



br-ead-makhstg-. 



It is said that the original Saxon form of our English word 
"Lady" meant "Loaf-giver." Essentially, there can be no higher 
dignity than that which attaches to the woman who is the loaf- 
giver to th«se who are dependent on her good sense and skill for 
the daily food which sustains physical life, and it is one of the best 
indications of the present time, that never more than to-day have 
women been interested in the quality of the household bread. 
Everywhere the housewife puts this foremost, as the one thing that 
must be "good," whatever of failure may be tolerated in other 
things. It is a commercial fact of the first importance that the 
American workingman insists (unquestionably at the dictate of hi§ 
"better half,") upon the first quality of flour in his provision for 
family needs. That this is sometimes carried to a wasteful and 
absurd excess is merely due to lack of knowledge, and a consequent 
wrong standard of excellence. The idea that "whiteness" is the 
thing in bread, which is primary and fundamental, has led and is 
constantly leading, to unnecessary expenditure. It depends upon 
too great a confidence in the sense of sight, as a guide in the choice 
of food, and is a part of the same delusion which makes us choose 
the red apple or peach, even when decidedly inferior to less showy 
sorts. The sight, being the first sense to receive an impression of 
external objects, will inevitably control choice, unless training and 
experience correct its errors. Briefly, it may be said that flour 



BREAD-MAKING. 



made of sound, well matured and well cleaned wheat, whether with 
or without a portion of the outer coatings, is good enough. But 
the most economical bread, and the bread which is alone suited to 
use as an exclusive or nearly exclusive diet, must contain all the 
substance of grain, except the very outermost layer of cells consti- 
tuting the bran ; — and such flour will always be of a creamy rather 
than a chalky white, and will make a tenacious dough, tough 
enough to bend any but a strong handled spoon in stirring it. 
Such bread also requires longer and slowtr baking, and is less 
adapted to biscuits than to loaves. 

Among the more refined and cultured there has prevailed a 
belief that flour made from the whole grain, — "Graham," as it has 
been called, in remembrance of the American apostle of vegetarian- 
ism — is the most wholesome. This belief has been taken advan- 
tage of by cunning millers, to help them get rid of large quantities 
of inferior wheat, utterly unfit for making good flour of any sort, 
and so Graham bread has had hard work to sustain itself, and its 
use is mostly confined to the production of a sort of hot biscuit 
called "gems," which are supposed to be less hurtful than other 
bread of that class. While the argument urged in favor of flour 
from the whole wheat, that nature clothed the wheat kernel with a 
branny husk and intended we should eat it so, might apply equally 
to barley and oats, so far as they are used for human food, yet in 
the case of wheat there is not much objection to be made, if the 
grain is well cleaned, and is itself of the first quality. While it is 
often claimed and with truth, that in decorticating the wheat before 
grinding, as the new process does, a portion of the important 
elements of the grain necessary to make it a perfect food, is re- 
moved, yet with the vast and varied dietary of the American peo- 
ple there is not likely to be any real deficiency on the whole. 
As a matter of mere economy, however, there can be little doubt 
that the outer layers of the cell-structure of the wheat grain give the 
cheapest supply of calcic, phosphatic and nitrogenous food material, 
and it is possible that fastidious people with a limited dietary, 
chiefly of bread, may really sufier for want of the elements which 
the flour-making process removes. Such people are the ones who 
need "bran bread," as farmers and work-people are apt to stigma- 
tize the Graham loaf. But where bread and meat and fruit go 
freely together to constitute daily food, there is little danger of 



BREAD-MAKING, 



elementary deficiency. Nature has provided against this, by making 
men soon tire of any sort of diet, however agreeable for a while, 
which is not complete in it8 constitution — that is which does not 
contain a full supply of all the essential elements of nutrition. 

The process of bread-making is not necessarily a difiicult one, 
and yet there are probably a dozen American girls who can make a 
good loaf of cake or a delicate dessert to one who can make good 
bread; though it is generally acknowledged that bread is by far 
the most important article in the list of household cookery, and 
that bread-making should therefore be the first lesson in house- 
keeping. In this, as in every other branch of cookery, the first 
step is the most difficult, and the main thing is to become acquainted 
wdth the elementary principles. When one is well grounded in 
these, and knows how to make the best quality of fermented or 
yeast-raised bread of pure wheat flour, the rest is easily accom- 
plished, Bread-making then becomes easier and more interesting 
with each trial, and Vienna bread, Grahapa bread, Boston brown 
bread — in fact all the varieties of bread, together with rolls and 
buns of every description, are achievements to be attained with a 
little additional thought and effort. 

The preparation of good bread is really a very simple matter, 
requiring only care and attention fco the principles involved in its 
production. In its simplest form, bread is flour, mixed with water 
into a stiff" dough, with yeast or some similar substance introduced 
to cause it to rise, after which it is baked in masses or loaves in 
the oven. This is simple enough, and yet close attention all along 
the lines of the process must be given to insure the highest success. 
The best bread, and almost the only bread generally used in Amer- 
ica, is made of flour — which is the crushed and pulverized grain of 
wheat, less the hard outer shell or bran. The best and strongest 
flour (measured by its capacity to produce loaves and the quantity 
of gluten), is made from what is known as ''No. 1 hard" spring 
wheat, grown in Minnesota and North Dakota and farther to the 
north in the wheat growing regions of Manitoba in British America. 
Brands of this flour are known in all the leading markets of the 
world. The next flour in excellence of quality is made from choice 
winter wheat. The spring wheat of all except the extreme North- 
western states, makes an inferior flour and is therefore but little 
grown. 



10 BREAD-MAKING. 



An average sample of flour is composed of: 

Moisture 10.84 per cent. 

Gluten 13.75 " 

Starch 68.28 " 

Oil 2.40 " 

Sugar 4.16 " 

Ash 57 '• 



100.00 
The peculiar characteristic of wheat flour is its gluten. Flour 
or meal from other grain contains but little. It is a nitrogenous 
compound, but it differs from the nitrogenous portions of other 
grains and vegetables, none of them showing more than a trace of 
its peculiar form in wheat. Take a little wheat flour and moisten 
it with water and it may be worked into a stiff mass of dough, from 
which, by continued working and kneading in cold water, the 
starch may be washed out almost completely, leaving a tough, 
semi-transparent mass, which, in drying, loses about two-fifths 
in weight, and becomes hard like a piece of horn. This is 
nearly pure gluten, and its presence in wheat flour gives to it its 
peculiar properties. Analysis gives in average winter wheat 10.15 
per cent, of albumenoids, 2.40 per cent, of which (28.6 per cent, of 
the whole) is soluble in water. In spring wheat the average is 
12.41 per cent, of albumenoids, of which 3.74 (30.1 of the whole) is 
soluble in water. The albumenoids constitute the muscle-producing 
portions of the flour, the rest being chiefly starch, which produces 
fat and supplies heat to the living machine. The soluble portion 
of the gluten dissolves in the water used in mixing, and is thus 
distributed through the whole mass. "When heated this albumen 
coagulates and encloses the starch cells which have burst from the 
efiect of the heat, while the carbonic acid gas, which is imprisoned 
in the mass, preserves the porous or "light" character of the loaf, 
which, when eaten, is readily acted upon by the fluids of the stom- 
ach. The heavy loaf may contain the same nutriment as the light 
but ita close mass is indigestible. If the heat is not sufficient to, 
penetrate the entire mass, and produce the same conditions in the 
centre as near the surface, the loaf will collapse and be heavy in 
the centre. 

THE YEAST. 

If a mass of dough is allowed to remain in a warm place for 
some time, fermentation begins, and if dough in which this ferment- 



BREAD-MAKING. H 



ing action has begun, is mixed with a larger mass of moistened 
flour, the fermenting process rapidly spreads through the whole 
and in a few hours it rises. The swelling of this mass being caused 
by the formation of bubbles by carbonic acid gas entangled in the 
dough. This process of fermentation is caused by a low order of 
vegetable growth called the yeast plant which presents some curious 
phases under the microscope. It grows with marvellous rapidity, 
by a continuous budding of new cells upon those already formed. 
These cells of the yeast plant are so small as to be carried about 
in the air everywhere when the temperature is such as to maintain 
their vitality, and coming in contact with any substance like dough 
which affords them a good place for development, they rapidly in- 
crease in number until the entire mass becomes filled with them. 
Such a mass becomes the leaven used for ages in the preparation of 
bread. It is simply a convenient way of preserving and utilizing 
the yeast-plant. In the process of growth in the dough the yeast 
plant forms alcohol and carbonic acid in the sugar, and this is the 
reason why yeast is so generally used in the preparation of bread 
for the oven. Other methods of rendering the dough porous and 
light have also been adopted. Sour milk and saleratus have been 
in use for a century, the lactic acid of the sour milk setting free the 
carbonic acid in the saleratus. Bicarbonate of soda (cooking soda) 
has been mixed with the flour and a sufficient quantity of hydro- 
chloric acid added to the water used in moistening the flour to liberate 
the carbonic acid and form with the soda, common salt. Water charged 
with carbonic acid has also been used in mixing up the dough under 
pressure in iron cylinders, the carbonic acid expanding upon being 
liberated from the pressure and thus lightening the mass. The so- 
called aerated bread is thus prepared without the use of yeast or the 
loss by fermentation of any portion of the flour, as is of course the 
case when yeast is employed, but none of these methods has ever 
become popular as a substitute for yeast in bread-making. 

Of late years the use of "baking powders" has become very ex- 
tensive as a ready substitute for yeast. These are simply soda and 
cream-of-tartar, but mixed in the proper proportions for immediate 
use. For the most part these powders consist of bicarbonate of soda 
and bi-tartrate of potash in the proportions necessary for their mu- 
tual decomposition with the liberation of the carbonic acid combin- 
ed with the soda. There is usually added about 15 per cent, of 



12 BREAD-MAKING. 



starch to prevent the powders from caking. When pure and 
when properly used these powders are effective and convenient. 
There is practically little difference in the value of several of the 
leading brands in the market, and they are equally free from any- 
thing injurious. The use of alum, however, by some of the manu- 
facturers, should be forbidden by law. 

Besides the peculiar yeast plant, there are other low orders of 
vegetable life which closely resemble yeast, but the developBaent of 
which is associated with the production of other undesirable pro- 
ducts. The importance therefore of having a pure yeast is obvious, 
and fortunately the compressed yeast sold now nearly everywhere, 
practically leaves nothing better to be desired. This consists of a 
mass of nearly pure yeast cells, practically free from any contami- 
nation with other forms. With its intelligent use the production of 
good and wholesome bread should soon become the universal rule. 

After keeping for a short time bread loses its moist, spongy 
character and becomes dry and brittle, being easily powdered in the 
fingers. This production of stale bread is found not to be due to 
the drying up of the loaf through loss of moisture, but to a union 
of the water with the nitrogenous and starchy portions of the bread. 
This may easily be proven by reheating in the oven a loaf of this stale 
bread, when it will be found to again resume its moist and spongy 
condition and this may again and again be repeated as often as the 
bread becomes stale. 

In baking, the bread should be placed in an oven heated to 
about 500°, the first efi'ort being to expand the gas in the number- 
less cavities of the loaf, thus greatly increasing its lightness, and 
then the nitrogenous portion of the dough is, as it were, coagulated 
and rendered sufficiently firm to maintain its form, while eome of 
the starch is heated so as to form a soluble compound dextrine, in 
the crust of the bread. The heat within the loaf does not exceed 
that of boiling water, and barely suffices to destroy the yeast plant 
in case that was used in its production. A good loaf should con- 
tain few large cavities ; it should be sufficiently baked to regain its 
form after pressure without being readily compressed into a dough ; 
it should flake off when pulled apart, showing the effect of sufficient 
kneading, and should not have been kept so long before baking as 
to have been permitted to enter upon the acetic fermentation, thus 
producing sour bread. 



BREAD-MAKING. 13 



Enough has been said to show that bread-making is something 
more than a mechanical process. Chemical changes are depended 
on to produce certain effects which are essential to success, and the 
conditions favoring these changes should be as perfect as possible. 
It is here that knowledge and skill are requisite for success. 

Bread made of leavened wheat flour, raised by fermentation 
familiarly known as light bread, is the most healthful and conven- 
ient for general use. When properly raised it keeps a reasonable 
length of time, and is an easily digested and wholesome and nutri- 
tious food. Lightness is not, however, the most important quality. 
Bread unskillfully made loses much of its flavor and subf='tance, 
and is unpalatable and less nutritious than when properly made. 

When perfect, bread is not only light, porous and free from 
taste or taint of any foreign element, but it possesses the fully 
developed natural flavor of the grain, and is both pleasant to the 
taste and satisfying to the appetite. 

The most perfect mode of raising bread is by fermentation, 
and the best fermentation is the alcoholic, through the use of 
yeast, the alcohol and carbonic acid developed by its use, passing 
off in vapor in the process of baking and cooling, provided the bak- 
ing be thorough and the cooling take place in pure air. But if this 
fermentation is allowed to proceed too far it takes other forms and 
the bread loses materially in nutriment, as well as in sweetness and 
delicacy. Even during the process of converting the starch and, 
sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid by the alcoholic ferment- 
ation, the action of the air is beginning to form acetic acid 
from the alcohol and the longer the bread is exposed to the air, the 
greater the quantity of acetic acid and the more liable the bread 
will be to become sour. Good yeast, the action of which is prompt 
and certain, is of the first importance in bread-making, and without 
it, it is impossible to make good bread, even with the best of flour, 
and often failures are charged to flour which are due to bad yeast. 
The compressed yeast already mentioned, is when fresh, perfectly 
reliable and is generally obtainable, but every housewife should mast- 
er the best method of making yeast and should be prepared to 
make it at home. 

A proper temperature is important in bread-making. Yeast, 
sponge and dough are all affected by contact of the air, and should 
be mixed and kept in thick stone or earthern vessels and covered 



14 BREAD-MAKING. 



closely to exclude the air. The temperature of about 75° during 
the entire process should be kept up. If the temperature drops 
below 30° fermentation is arrested, it works slowly at 50°, rapid- 
ly at 70° and very rapidly at 90°, the rise or fall of the temperature 
hastening or retarding its action. The objection to setting sponge 
at night is, that it stands too long. Bread to be white, sweet, and 
digestible, must be mixed immediately after the sponge has risen to 
the proper point, which may he known hy its puffy appearance^ 
usually rising higher in the middle than at the sides of the crock; 
if it sinks in the center^ it has stood too long. 

The quantity of flour necessary to make dough of the p'roper 
consistency for good bread, depends on its quality and varies from 
two-and-a-half to three parts flour to one of "wetting" (milk or 
water used in moistening the flour.) The dough can be made stiffer 
by the addition of more flour without harm. Soft, spongy bread 
is more delicate when freshly baked, but loses its moisture and 
grows stale much sooner than the more compact loaf. Dough for 
fancy bread and rolls should be quite stiff so as to keep any de- 
sired shape. The time required for kneading depends on the qual- 
ity of the flour. The better and fresher the flour the less kneading 
is required. Flour is injured by exposure to the air, as it absorbs 
moisture which impairs the tenacity of the gluten, and bread of the 
best quality cannot be made from it by any process of kneading or 
working. For this reason, the family supply of flour should always 
be kept in closely covered receptacles, and for this purpose nothing 
is better than a six or ten-gallon tin or granite ware can with 
tight-fitting cover. 

Pulling and stretching dough is less laborious than kneading 
and working it, and accomplishes the affect of rendering it tough 
and elastic by distributing the moistened gluten through the mass. 
The two processes are best carried on at intervals, the bread-maker 
getting relief by changing from one to the other. 

It is a question whether much kneading is required to make 
the best quality of bread. It is the fermentation which gives life to 
the dough, and when this process is perfect, the dough is very elas- 
tic and has great resisting force, rising and swelling in spite of 
kneading and working. The pressure of the hand only makes a 
temporary impression, the elasticity soon restoring the mass to its 
original form and constantly swelling its proportions. This pent 



BREAD-MAKING. 15 



up force is the best test of quality, and when perfectly developed 
the dough can be molded, twisted or plaited with perfect ease, 
and it does not stick to the hands or molding board. 

Dough, after having risen, should not be kneaded again. It 
should be taken from the mass, divided into loaves or rolls, and 
gently pulled, rolled, or folded into shape and placed in pans ready 
for rising the last time. Here is the final and most important 
point in bread-making. To decide when the dough is just light 
enough to bake is a very important matter and requires good judg- 
ment and close observation. If subjected to the heat too soon, you fail 
of the best results, and if it passes the proper point of perfect light- 
ness the failure is no less apparent. Unfortunately the exact time re- 
quired cannot be given, as the atmospheric conditions, the quality 
of flour and the temperature all influence and vary the result. Ob- 
servation and experience can alone decide the time varying from 
fifteen minutes in warm weather to an hour in cold weather. As a 
rule, when it begins to seam or crack upon the surface it is ready 
for the oven. 

Every housekeeper should provide herself with what is called 
by bakers a '•''Proof Box'^ for placing bread, biscuit, rolls, etc., (al- 
ready in the bread-pan) in during the process of rising. This is 
nothing more nor less than an air-tight wooden box that can be 
made by anyone at all familiar with the use of tools, and its size 
should of course depend upon the size of the family, which in turn 
regulates the quantity of dough to be raised. Beside giving the 
dough this protection, the careful baker also folds a cloth or towel 
around it before putting on the close-fitting cover of the box. Kept 
thus excluded from the air the outside of the loaves or rolls is as 
fresh and tender when put in the oven as the inside. Set the box 
near the range where it will receive the necessary warmth, and be 
sure that it is kept perfectly sweet and clean, using it for no other 
purposes whatever. Air and dry the box thoroughly each time be- 
fore using. 

A loaf of bread should nearly double in size after it is put in 
the pan ; or if a deep gash be cut in the top of it the incision should 
disappear by the time the loaf has perfectly risen. Bread, when light 
enough for baking, feels aerated all through ; and by lifting and 
weighing it in the hand, the condition of lightness can be recog. 
nized quite as accurately as by sight. The exercise of observation 



16 BREAD-MAKING. 



and judgment soon enable the bread-maker to decide when dough 
has reached its best and most perfect state of lightness. But if 
doubt exists in regard to the matter it is safer to put it in the oven 
while rising toward perfection rather than after it has passed that 
point. 

The excellence of bread is greatly dependent upon the perfec- 
tion of the cells produced by the action of the carbonic acid gas. 
The sooner these are fixed by heat through the entire loaf, after it 
is put in the oven, the finer will be the quality of the bread. And as 
these cells can be fixed more readily in a small than a large loaf, or 
several email loaves packed together in a large pan, it is quite im- 
portant that bread pans should be of the proper dimensions. 
Bread will bake most perfectly in a pan about four inches in width, 
four inches in depth, and adapted to the capacity of the oven in 
length, or nine or ten inches long. 

POTATO BREAD. 

Potato added to flour is generally supposed to improve the 
quality of bread. That it does is unquestionably true, where the 
flour used is of an inferior grade. " Of all starches," says Dr. Gra- 
ham, " the starch found in the potato is the best adapted to the 
growth of yeast, and in using potato in bread, bakers made practi- 
cal application of a fact long before chemists discovered it." Pota- 
toes when used in bread should be well boiled and smoothly 
mashed, and equal portions of potato and flour be used in making. 
The sponge and bread are then made in the same manner as when 
flour alone is used. 

Milk bread is made by using milk instead of water for "wetting," 
and differs from that in which water is used by being more crisp 
and tender, and having a richer colored crust. But unless the 
milk is boiled, lactic acid is liable to be produced during fermenta- 
tion, which gives the bread an objectionable taste and odor. 

It is claimed that bran in Graham flour often proves an irritant 
to delicate digestive organs. In whole wheat flour we have the 
entire food principle of the grain without the hull. The cold blast 
process of milling gives us this flour of a very superior quality. 

Whole wheat flour bread should be made in every particular 
like patent or new process flour bread, and baked in loaves, twists, 



BREAD-MAKING. 17 

or fancy rolls, lb is very delicious baked in the form of muffins 
and eaten warm. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

The sponge for Graham bread should be of white flour and 
prepared in the same manner as the ferment for white flour bread. 
When light add sugar and salt to taste, and work in Graham flour 
until the dough becomes elastic and clinging and is sufficiently 
stiffi Let stand till perfectly risen, then shape into loaves by roll- 
ing gently under the hand on a well floured molding board, and 
place in greased baking pans. Less flour is required in proportion 
to the "wetting," for Graham than for white bread. And unless 
Graham dough is of the proper consistency, the bread when baked 
will be moist, sticky and insipid, or dry, rough and unpalatable. 
The correct proportions are a little more than two measures of 
Graham flour to one measure of "wetting." Most of the Graham 
flour in the markets is made of inferior wheat and is unfit for use. 
To be sure of good Graham flour buy of mills which use selected 
wheat and make it a specialty. When this is used the Graham and 
Brown Breads are the most wholesome, nutritious and appetizing 
of all breads. In steaming brown breads not made with yeast, put 
them on over cold water as they rise while water is quickly brought 
to the boiling point. The latter must be kept at this point till 
bread is done, three or four hours at least. 

OAT, CORN AND BARLEY BREAD. 

Fermented bread can be made of oat, corn, or barley meal or 
flour, care being taken to add wetting in proportion to the demands 
of the grain. When corn or oat meal is used, pour boiling water 
over it, and let it swell for at least an hour before adding yeast. 
Any of these make delicious muffins or bread to be eaten warm. 

Oat meal, pearled barley, and corn grits well cooked and made 
into bread by adding whole wheat flour, may be baked in muffin 
pans or rolled thin and baked in crisp rolls. Rye bread is made 
like wheat bread, from three to three and a half measures to one of 
wetting being required. It requires longer time to ferment or rise 
and it will not be so light and spongy as wheat bread. 

When bread is ready for baking, it is desirable to fix the air 
ceils as soon as possible by heat ; but it does not follow that to do 
2 



18 BREAD-MAKING. 



this it should be put in a very hot oven and a crust immediately 
formed on the loaves. A too sudden formation of crust interferes 
with the penetration of heat and prevents the coagulation of the 
albumen in the cell walls by which their permanence is established 
and secured. 

The heat of the oven should not be greatest when bread is put 
to bake; it should slightly increase in intensity for about ten 
minutes, and after remaining at a firm, steady temperature for that 
length of time should gradually decrease till the baking is finished. 
The principal change to be effected by the baking, which is the 
coagulation of the albumen of the air cells, takes place at a temper- 
ature somewhere near 212°, and as the temperature within the 
loaf can not rise above that point, no changes go on there except 
those produced by the watery vapor of steam. Flour, however, is 
not browned, except at a much higher temperature ; hence a greater 
degree of heat is necessary to properly bake the outside of the loaf. 
During the period of baking bread the heat of the oven should not 
rise above 550° nor fall below 250°. To test the oven put half a 
sheet of writing paper in the oven j if it catches fire it is too hot ; 
open the damper.^ ;\\v\ wait ten minutes, when put in another 
piece of paper ; ii" it blackens it is still too hot. Ten minutes later 
put in a third piece ; if it gets dark hrown the oven is right for all 
small pastry, called '■''dark hrown paper heat." Light hrowoipaper 
heat is suitable for vol-au-vents or fruit pies. Dark yellow paper 
heat for large pieces of pastry or meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. 
Light yellow paper heat for sponge cake, meringues, etc. To ob- 
tain these various degrees of heat, try paper every ten minutes till 
heat required for the purpose is attained. Remember that "light 
yellow" means paper only tinged; "dark yellow," paper the color of 
ordinary pine wood ; "light brown" is only a shade darker, about 
the color of nice pie-crust, and dark brown a shade darker, by no 
means coffee color. 

The oven door should be closed immediately upon putting the 
bread in, and be sure that no part of the range is open during the 
baking; neither should the door be opened too soon nor too often 
to look at the bread. About ten minuses after putting in the loaves 
it is best to look into the oven to see how the bread is doing, ar.d 
once or twice again during the 'baking, as the loaves may require 



BREAD-MAKING. 19 



changing, opening and closing the doors as quickly as possible. 
If the loaves begin to brown too quickly cover with a piece of thick 
brown paper ; if they begin to brown quickly at one end and not at 
the other change their position, or if the loaf at the back of the 
oven bakes faster than those at the front, change them about. 

As a quantity of dough to begin with somewhat reduces the 
temperature of the oven ai first, one loaf will not require so hot an 
oven as four or five. The time required for baking is not less than 
three-quarters of an hour, and bread baked a full hour is more whole- 
some and is considered more palatable. If bread is baked in 
the French roll pan it does not require so long a time, as the "rolls" 
are only about two and a half to three inches deep and same width, 
being rounded at the bottom. They are very nice for slicing, mak- 
ing pretty pieces. The pans come in different lengths, eight, twelve, 
sixteen and twenty inches. All loaves of bread of whatever shape, 
and biscuits, rolls, etc., are much nicer if when almost baked they 
are carefully moved out on oven-shelf and brushed, using the pas- 
try brush, with the Boll Glaze, (which is two yolks beaten with 
twice their bulk in water and half teaspoon sugar) and then return- 
ed to oven till done. 

There are various methods of testing bread and ascertaining 
when it is thoroughly baked. 

1. A loaf of bread, if sufficiently done, will not burn the hand 
when lifted from the baking pan. If it does, there is more hot steam 
within than is consistent with thorough baking, and the loaf should 
be replaced, instantly, in the oven. 

2. If the bottom of a well-baked loaf be tapped with the fin- 
ger, a hollow, empty sound will be emitted, but underdone or heavy 
bread gives forth a dull sound. 

3. The crust of a loaf when properly baked is a rich, brown 
color ; and if the inside or crumb be subjected to light pressure, 
while fresh, it rebounds the instant the pressure is removed. 

4. Underdone bread is easily compressed into wads, when it 
resembles putty in appearance. 

REMOVAL FROM THE PANS. 

Bread as soon as baked should be taken from the pans and 
placed, uncovered, in such position as will expose the greatest possi- 
ble amount of surface to the air. This will prevent the crust from 



20 BREAD-MAKING. 



becoming sodden, and permit the rapid escape of the carbonic acid 
gas evolved In the process of fermentation. This gas is essential to 
expand the dough and lighten the bread, but its presence isnotcon- 
ducive to health, and it should be encouraged to take its exit at the 
earliest possible moment after performing its mission. 

The ceil walls of fermented bread are coated with glassy starch 
which is quite moist and adhesive while the bread is warm and fresh 
and if bread is eaten while in this condition — although very thor- 
oughly baked — it becomes a compact mass, almost impervious to 
the gastric juices, and resists for a much longer time than stale or 
cold bread, the digestive powers of the stomach. Moreover, the 
yeast plants or germs generated during the fermentation, although 
in a great measure destroyed by the heat of the oven, continue to 
a certain extent to live for sometime after bread has been baked, and 
if taken into the human system may prove injurious to health. 
Hence fermented bread should never be eaten till, at least thorough- 
ly cold. 

Experience proves that butter, lard or grease of any kind put in- 
to dough does not improve the quality of the bread, and as it to 
some extent affects the fermentation injuriously, it should, when 
used, be added at the last kneading. But as the crisp tenderness 
caused by its introduction can be produced perfectly by skillful 
manipulating and baking, no "shortening" other than milk is ever 
necessary in bread. 

To prevent dough from sticking, the bowl or vessel in which it 
is put to rise should always be greased with a little lard, butter 
or drippings. 

If bread and rolls are brushed lightly with milk immediately 
before they are put in, and after they are taken from the oven, the 
color and flavor of the crust will be materially improved. 

Rolls are more crisp and tender when baked quickly, and the 
heat of the oven should be somewhat greater for rolls than for bread. 
They should also be considerably lighter than bread when put to 
bake, as the fermentation is arrested so rapidly by the heat required 
for baking them properly, that they rise but little after they go in- 
to the oven. 



BREAD-MAKING. 21 



Bread. — Set sponge at nine o'clock in the evening in summer 
and keep it in a cool place ; or at noon and make it up in the even- 
ing. Do not keep in cellar or it will sour. In the winter set it 
at six o'clock at night and place where it will keep warm. For the 
sponge use one yeast cake soaked in lukewarm water, three potatoes 
boiled and mashed fine and one pint flour. Scald with the boiling 
potato water, adding the yeast after the mixture has become cool, 
and mixing to a smooth paste. Add a teaspoon salt and beat fifteen 
minutes. When the sponge foams it is risen sufficiently ; then add 
a pint warm water and flour to make a smooth dough that will not 
stick to the fingers, set in warm place, and when full of cells work 
in all the flour possible. Let it rise and knead until the gas stops 
cracking. Make into loaves, let rise, and increase the heat of the 
oven after the first twenty minutes of baking. 

Apple Bread. — To make bread from apples or other fruits, pare 
them, put them over the fire and stew them tender, adding a little 
engar if they are very sour ; then pulp them through a sieve. Use 
this pulp as the basis of bread ; mix one pound of fruit pulp with 
two pounds flour, teaspoon salt, one gill liquid yeast, and water 
enough to make a soft dough ; knead, make into loaves, let rise and 
bake as ordinary bread. Pears and other fruits may also be used, 
the fact being remembered that the juice of fruit must not be ex- 
tracted, but must be allowed to replace water or milk in making the 
bread. Fruit breads should be eaten with some precaution, as their 
action may be laxative ; in this connection it may be well to give a 
good recipe for a harmless vegetable bread of the same nature. 

Bean Bread. — The use of potatoes in bread is well known, but 
not so the fact that beans, parsnips, carrots, turnips,beet8 and sweet 
potatoes may be employed either for purposes of variety or economy ; 
any of these vegetables may be used after being boiled and reduced 
to B. puree or pulp according to the directions given above, care be- 
ing taken to extract their moisture by rolling the^wree lengthwise 
in a strong towel, and then squeezing it as dry as possible by having 
the ends of the towel twisted tight by two persons. 

Bucheye Bread. — Pour gradually, stirring meanwhile, a quart 
of boiling water upon half a pint of wheat flour. When the mixture 
has cooled to about lukewarmness (80°) add a gill ofyeast, stir well, 
cover closely, and let stand till thoroughly light and a mass of white 
foam. Taste it, and it bites like beer ; stir it, and it seems to 
sparkle with life, while the odor it emits is strongly alcoholic. This 
can be kept for several hours after it becomes light and foamy with- 
out growing sour, or appearing to deteriorate in any manner. But 
it is better to use it as soon as it reaches this stage, as it is then at 
its very best. The time required for it to grow light, varies from 
two to six hours, according to the strength of the yeast put in it, 
and the temperature of the place where it stands. When due at- 



22 BREAD-MAKING. 



tention is given to these things, the custom of preparing or "setting" 
it in the evening to be used in bread making the next day, is a con- 
venient one ; and, as it usually proves Batisfactory, is in no way ob- 
jectionable. 

When perfectly light, beat vigorously into it about half a pint 
of flour, cover and leave to rise. By this addition of flour it is 
transformed into sponge, which, under favorable conditions, will 
rise in from half an hour to an hour. As soon as the sponge rises, 
add more flour, and give it another beating ; and so repeat each time 
it rises, until it gets too stiff to be easily stirred. The m.ixture is 
then dough, and is ready for working or kneading. After it has 
been kneaded till flour is no longer required to keep it from stick- 
ing to the molding board, it is of the proper consistency for bread, 
and may be divided into four equal parts, molded or shaped into 
loaves, and put in greased bread pans to rise for the last time, prepar- 
atory to baking ; or it maybe set to rise in a mass before being divid- 
ed into loaves. It is very difficult to decide whether it is better to let 
the dough rise in a mass or in separate loaves. Bread which rises 
in amass appears to be a trifle more elastic and spongy than that 
which rises in eeparfte loaves; but the latter seems to excel the 
former in sweetness and delicacy of flavor. In either case the bread 
will be good. Two points in this mode of making bread deserve 
special attention : — 

The flour is added repeatedly after intervals of fermentation, 
and as it contains fresh food for the yeast, these frequent additions 
of flour keep the yeast in a vigorous and healthy condition during 
the entire period of bread-making. 

The fermentation is always arrested in the sponge and dough 
before it arrives at the exhaustive point ; whenever sponge or dough 
is allowed to reach its utmost limit of expansion and fall back ^ or 
"tumble in," as it invariably does at this crisis, it loses something 
of excellence that no after labor or attention can restore. 

Favorite Bread. — To a pint of new milk, add a pint of water, 
an ounce of compressed yeast, a teaspoon of salt, and flour to make 
a thin batter. Stir well, and let stand for an hour to rise, then work 
in flour until the dough is the proper consistency for bread. When 
very light, which will be in about three hours, divide and mold into 
loaves, and set to rise in the bread pans, or shape into Victoria 
rolls and set to rise. For Crescents., milk alone should be used as 
wetting, and a quarter of a pound of lard to each quart of milk 
worked into the dough which is prepared the same as for Favorite 
bread. When the dough i? light, roll up and place on thebake-pan 
in form of a crescent. 

Rice Breai. — Boil pint of rice till soft, and mix it with two 
quarts of rice flour or wheat flour. When cool add half teacup 
yeast, teaspoon salt and enough milk to make a soft dough. Place 
in pans and when risen bake. 



BREAD-MAKING. 23 



Salt Rising Bread. — Two teacupfuls boiling water poured into 
a clean sweet dish — use a tin quart can — in which has been placed 
a teaspoon salt. When cooled. enough to bear to hold the finger in 
it, stir in flour enough to make a rather stiff batter, and set it where 
it will keep warm ; do this night before baking, about seven or eight 
o'clock in the evening. It will keep warm in the oven till midnight. 
In the morning set it into a kettle of very warm — not hot water — 
and with frequent stirring it will soon be w^armed through, when 
about half a teaspoonful of saleratus is moistened or dissolved in a 
spoonful of warm water and stirred into the batter ; it is then left to 
keep warm and rise. When the dish is nearly full, which will be in 
two or three hours, the bread pan receives a quantity of flour, into 
which put about one quart of very warm water, stirring in some of the 
flour first, then pouring in the rising, and stirring together to a thick 
batter. Cover this with flour about half an inch thick to help keep 
in the heat, and set it in a warm place. In an hour it should be up 
light enough to mold, and will make three good-sized loaves, which 
are set back in the warm place, to rise again for three-quarters of an 
hour at least — sometimes it takes an hour, if molded too stiff. Then 
bake in a well heated oven, aboutforty minutes, though the cook must 
use her own judgment, for stoves differ. If the flour is made by the 
roller process, a handful of cann?ile thrown in the batter facilitates 
the rising very materially. 

Sweet Potato Bread. — Boil three large sweet potatoes, peel and 
mash them through a colander with a potato-masher, adding tea- 
spoon salt and tablespoon butter ; after they have been mashed, mix 
with them one cup and a half corn meal, a scant cup milk, and one 
egg beaten smooth ; pour batter into a buttered baking-pan, and 
bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Use the bread hot -with 
plenty of butter. 

Bread vnth Butterinilk. — Use one and a half yeast cake in the 
summer and two in the winter for ten to twelve loaves. Dis- 
solve the cakes in pint of weak hop or peach leaf tea. When it 
foams add one pint of warm water and stir in raw flour, beating it 
up well, adding two or three well-mashed potatoes. Set in a warm 
place. Early in the evening and just before going to bed, take one 
gallon whey of buttermilk that has been boiled, stir in flour as stiff 
as can be stirred with a large spoon ; then add the sponge, mixing 
thoroughly. Set in a warm place till morning, then take one quart 
boiling water, adding salt and a little soda, stir into the dough, 
knead it up quickly just stiff enough to handle. Form into small 
loaves, Avorking them over immediately, working the outside of the 
loaf in, when putting into pans. By the time the oven is hot the 
bread is light. Bake thirty minutes. 

To keep bread warm while in the pans, have a board cut so it 
will rest on the flare of the large mixing pan at each end mid- 
way down. Set pans in the bottom of the mixing pans, then have 



24 BREAD-MAKING. 



the board or shelf well warmed, lay it in as before mentioned, set 
other pans on it, put on the lid, set a small lamp with the light quite 
low under the tray, moving it back and forth so it does not get too 
hot in one place — once in ten minutes will be often enough to move 
it. The bread rises nicely without a dry crust on top, This may 
help some one who has no good way to keep bread warm. 

Bi^ead Making Made Easy. — This quantity is for eight loaves 
but may be varied at pleasure. Three quarts warm water, in which 
melt a lump of butter, the size of a hen's egg. Stir in flour sufficient 
to make a smooth, thick batter. Then add a bowlful of yeast which 
must be well stirred in. Now with the hands knead in more flour, 
until the dough is firm, smooth and elastic, and will not adhere to 
the hands. Cover closely and set in a warm place overnight. You 
cannot be too careful in keeping the cold air from it, for if once 
chilled the bread will not be so light and sweet. Next morning the 
dough will be as light as a foam, and before it begins to subside take 
out on bread-board and chop with a choping knife for five minutes 
or even less will do. It will scarcely be necessary to add any more 
flour. Mold into loaves and when light bake. It will be seen that 
this requires but two risings, thereby retaining much of the sweetness 
of the flour which passes off in fermentation. Set the sponge at 8 
o'clock in the evening, and chop and mold into loaves before break- 
fast next morning, and by the time breakfast is over it is light 
enough for the oven. 

Bread tvith Potatoes. — For two loaves of bread, boil three fair 
sized potatoes and mash them thoroughly (use a fork) in the bread 
pan ; add one teacup of flour, one tablespoon sugar, one-half of 
salt, one-fourth of ginger and one very scant quart of boiling water. 
The water should be added gradually till the mixture is perfectly 
smooth, and when luke-warm add one dissolved yeast cake or one- 
half cup of sweet lively yeast, and keep where it will not get chill- 
ed. At night the sponge should be very foamy and then add all 
the sifted flour that can be stirred in and during hot weather, at 
bed-time, put it down in the cellar or in the refrigerator. In the 
morning, add flour sufficient to make the dough of a consistency to 
handle, divide into loaves and mold thoroughly, adding flour till 
the dough can be rolled back and forth across the board, or a pinch 
can be rolled between the hands without sticking; then put it in 
warm and well greased tins, only half full, cover up and keep near 
the fire till the dough has filled the tins and rounded up in the mid- 
dle ; then bake in a moderately quick oven till it looks done ; then 
try it with a broom-splint, (if dough does not adhere it is done) re- 
membering that scorched bread is ever so much better than unbak- 
ed dough. 

Just before putting dough in tins, divide each loaf into two or 
three parts, roll each piece out long, and then lay them on, side by 
side. A loaf containing two parts may be pulled apart before cut- 



BREAD-MAKING. 25 



ting, making nice square slices. Potatoes may be omitted from this 
bread, and it will be light and sweet, but will not keep so long. The 
sponge may be started at noon with the same result, if kept warm 
in cold weather, or at night, stirring in all the flour possible, when 
the yeast is added, and molding twice in the morning. But the bread 
is better if started in the morning, and the work does not interfere 
with the dinner at noon or give any trouble at night, aside from 
simply stirring in the flour. As it requires but one molding and 
rises quickly, if potatoes are used, it is baked and out of the way 
early in the morning, which is desirable during the warm mornings 
of summer or the short forenoons of winter. Frequently the sponge 
will be light at noon or a little after, and in warm weather set it 
down in the cellar or where it will keep moderately cool ; it will nev- 
er sour, if the Avater used is boiling-hot. It differs little from soft 
yeast that always stands about the kitchen at least two days, and is 
expected to keep sweet from one to two weeks. 

One yeast cake may be used for two loaves bread, as a package 
will then last over a month ; but in making a large amount of bread, 
the yeast and wetting are not increased according to the amount 
used for one or two loaves. An oven is ready for bread when the 
doors are hot on the outside to the outspread hand and siss on the 
inside. The air that comes out should be quite warm, but if actual- 
ly hot, the bread will burn. 

Another formula which will be found excellent is as follows : 
The day before baking bread have mashed potatoes for dinner ; take 
of them when prepared for the table a pint, or so, soak a good fresh 
yeast cake in as little water as will soak it thoroughly, mix well with 
the potatoes, using the hands ; then pack in a bowl, cover closely, 
and set in a warm place. If this is done directly after dinner, by the 
time one wishes to sponge the bread in the evening, it will be light — 
not raised up, but light all through, and just right for use. If one 
wishes to wait until morning before using, the yeast will not be in- 
jured by standing, only it must not get chilled. 

When ready to sponge the bread, have warm water and warm 
flour, w^hich has been placed in the oven long enough to be dry and 
get warm through. Dry, vmrm Hour is one of the strong points of 
success. Stir in the flour with a spoon, not very stiff", and put it in 
a warm place to rise. If this is done early in the morning, follow- 
ing directions, the sponge ought to be ready to knead upas soon af- 
ter breakfast as one may wish. Then make up stiff", add a little sugar 
and salt, also a little lard if wished ; but no soda unless the sponge 
is too light to be good, and if that is the case some must be added, 
but the bread will not be first-class. Be sure to use the sponge be- 
fore it needs the soda. Use warm flour this time also, and let no 
draught strike the bread at any time. Knead it up so stiff"that it will 
need no more flour when made into loaves, put it in the bread pans 
to rise, and with the fist make a dent in the center to the bottom of 



26 BREAD-MAKING. 



the bread. When this is well rounded out the bread is ready to 
form into loaves. Place the pan in a warm place free from draughts. 
A box having one or more shelves, set behind the kitchen stove is a 
great convenience. When the bread in the pan is light, if time or 
strength is any object, divide it into loaves, taking care not to have 
them too large for the tins in which they are to be baked, and take 
a chopping-knife and chop the bread instead of spending a half 
hour or more kneading each loaf. It is much easier, and the dough 
makes just as good bread. Chop and fold over, and chop again, 
and again, molding in shape as needful. Put the loaves in the tins 
and let them rise until very light — just here no written directions 
can take the place of experience. As to the heat required to bake, 
and the time also, ovens vary much. But an observing woman will 
soon get acquainted with her stove and oven, so that she will 
be mistress of the operation every time, if no one is allowed to at- 
tend to the fire while she is baking. 

Another good rule is the following: Save the water drained from 
the potatoes for dinner, mashing some of them in it if desired. Add 
as much water as will make the amount of bread required, allowing 
one pint for a medium sized loaf. Dissolve one-third of a dry yeast 
cake for each loaf in a cup of warm water and stir it into the pota- 
to water, being sure to have it warm but not too warm. Add a tea- 
spoon of salt for each pint, beat in as much flour as will make 
as stiff a batter as can well be beaten with a spoon and set in a warm 
place to rise. The last thing before going to bed, make into a dough 
just stiff enough to knead well; knead for ten minutes and again 
put in a warm place to stand over-night. In the morning the bread 
will be light. Knead another ten minutes, mold into loaves and 
put into tins. Small or medium-sized ones are preferable to drip- 
ping-pans as the bread bakes more evenly and thoroughly and is 
sweeter and richer. When light bake in a moderate oven three-quar- 
ters of an hour. Place the loaves on the sides to cool and put away 
in a stone jar or tin bread box. For Grahamor Brown Breads set 
the )^east at night the same as for white bread, leaving out the potato 
water and allowing one-half the amount for each loaf. In the morn- 
ing when light, add one large cup of new milk and one tablespoon- 
ful of brown sugar or New Orleans molasses for each loaf. Beat in 
Graham flour so long as it can be stirred, with a teaspoon or paddle, 
pour into deep baking tins and set in a warm place until it has ris- 
en to twice its bulk and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Wrap 
in damp cloths to soften the crust, if preferred. 

Bread vntli Compressed Yeast. — When it is possible to obtain 
fresh compressed yeast, also called German yeast, an excellent bread 
can be made in about two hours and a half; the rapidity of the 
leavening or "raising" the dough is advantageous, because less of 
the nutritive elements of the flour are lost than by following the 
long process; for two loaves of bread use three pounds of flour 



BREAD-MAKING. 27 



about a quart of water, two teaspoons salt, and an ounce of fresh 
compressed yeast; dissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarm water; 
stir in sufllcient flour to make a thick batter or sponge, cover with a 
folded towel, and set it in a warm place to rise ; if properly covered 
and heated it will rise to a light foam in about half an hour; then 
stir into it the salt, dissolved in a little Avarm water ; add the rest of 
the flour and sufficient lukewarm water to make a dough stiff enough 
to knead ; knead it five minutes ; divide it into two loaves, put them 
into buttered baking-pans, cover them with a folded towel, and 
set them in a warm place to rise twice their heighth ; then bake as 
directed in other recipes. In raising the sponge be sure the heat 
is not sufficient to "scald" or harden it, as that will prevent fermen- 
tation ; therefore do not place it where the hand can not be held with 
comfort ; keep it covered from draughts. If, when it is light, it has 
become at all soured, as it sometimes will in summer, stir into it 
before adding the balance of the flour a salt-spoon baking soda, dis- 
solved in a very little lukewarm water. 

The dough made for this bread may be made up and baked as 
raised biscuit; or if sweet biscuit are wanted, knead into it a table- 
spoon each of sugar and melted butter ; or the dough may be 
boiled in soups and stews as raised dumplings. 

To test the heat of the oven follow this method : The "moderate 
oven" temperature is that degree of heat which will turn ordinary 
writing-paper dark yellow or buff, that is the color of kindling-wood ; 
put a sheet of paper in the oven and close the door; if the paper 
blazes the oven is too hot ; arrange the dampers to lower the heat 
for ten minutes ; then again test it with more paper ; it may be 
necessary to try the temperature several times, but the time thus 
used is well spent. Another simple way of testing the heat of the 
oven is to hold the hand in it after it has been closed for some time; 
if the hand can be held there without burning for quarter of a min- 
ute the heat is good. 

Quick Bread. — Peel ten potatoes, boil, drain, saving water, and 
mash thoroughly ; add three tablespoons each sugar and salt, three 
of flour scalded in half pint water ; mix and add a quart of the 
boiling potato-water, also five quarts tepid water and a cup of soft 
yeast. Put in a warm place till it foams nicely, then put away to 
cool. When thoroughly cold, seal or cork tightly and put in a cool 
place. To make the bread, sift flour in pan for number of loaves re- 

?uired and wet it with some of the above prej^ared rising, warmed, 
very important) and noildng else ; when well mixed mold into loaves 
and put in a Avarm place to rise ; if directions are strictly followed, 
bread will be light in two hours. Bake an hour, and thus in three hours 
perfect bread can be made and baked. By adding to part of the 
dough when mixed for the loaves, half teacup lard or butter, one egg 
and three tablespoons sugar, let rise and then make into biscuit, let 
rise again and bake, taking for all an hour and a half more — this 



28 BREAD-MAKING. 



gives biscuits or rolls in less than four hours, as soon as with com- 
pressed yeast, with the advantage of the rising being home-made 
This conies strongly endorsed by an experienced bread baker. Or take 
two yeast cakes dissolved in one-half pint of warm water, add 
two tablespoons flour, one-fourth cup sugar and one-fourth cup 
salt. One dozen potatoes boiled and mashed are to be stirred with 
one quart boiling water, cooled with two quarts cold water and to 
this add yeast-cake mixture. Cover close and put in a warm place 
till morning. This may be prepared while getting dinner. To each 
loaf, allow a pint of this rising and use no other wetting. Stir as 
stiff with flour as possible, or mix lightly with thehands if preferred 
and leave to rise, which will be in an hour or two according to tem- 
perature. Mold and let rise again in bulk; when light mold for 
tins, taking care this time not to let it get too light for fear the bread 
will be too crumbly. Use covered tins for baking, as they improve 
the crust. 

This rising will keep two or more weeks and though it may 
seem sour, will make good sweet bread without the use of soda or 
other alkali. For Oood Brown Bread, take one pint of the stirred 
sponge when light and ready to mold in bulk as above, and add one- 
half cup of good molasses and one-half cup of warm milk. Stir 
very stiff with graham flour. Mold into loaves with the spoon and 
bake in a rather slow oven. 

Boston Brown Bread. —Scald a pint of corn meal with a pint 
of boiling water, when sufficiently cool, add a pint and a half of rye 
meal, a gill of yeast, a gill of molasses and a teaspoon of salt. Mix 
well, and when perfectly risen, steam five hours, then put in the 
oven half an hour to dry and harden the crust. 

Boston Brown Bread, — Boil and mash fine six potatoes and 
make into a sponge with one cup yeast, three cups flour and one 
quart warm water, adding two tablespoons each of lard and brown 
sugar. When light, sift into the bread tray two quarts Indian meal, 
one quart rye or wheat flour and one tablespoon each of soda and 
salt. Pour the risen sponge into this and mix, adding warm water 
if needed, and work in gradually a half cup molasses. Knead well 
and let rise six or seven hours, knead again, make into loaVes, let 
rise one hour and bake in moderate oven. 

Broimi Bread with Mush. — Pour two quarts hot corn meal 
mush, made as for eating, over two quarts Graham flour (wheat may 
be used) ; when nearly cool add quart sponge, coffee-cup molasses, 
teaspoon salt, half teaspoon soda; mix well together with a wooden 
paddle or the hands and add half pint more flour to make stiff hatter. 
Place in small bread pans (such as are described in the preceding 
preface on baking bread), filling them a little more than half full 
and smoothing over with a spoon dipped in water. Let rise till 
there is a seam or crack in the loaf.> then bake in a moderate oven 



BREAD-MAKING. 29 



for an hour and a half, putting a thick paper over the loaves for the 
first half hour; when done, rub over with butter, place on the side, 
wrap in a cloth, and when cold put in a jar or box. 

Steamed Corn Bread. — Two and one half cups sour milk, 
(buttermilk if you have it), two cups corn meal, one cup flour, 
two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon soda, one tablespoon salt, two 
eggs, put in a cake pan with stem in center, place in a steamer, 
and steam three hours, or longer, keep closely covered, put in stove 
fifteen minutes to brown before sending to table ; set in a pan of 
cold water a few minutes and it will turn out nicely. 

Graham Bread. — Make a sponge as for white bread ; put in the 
white of an egg beaten light, a teaspoon salt, one tablespoon sugar 
one of lard, beat all together and stir into the sponge when it is light. 
Then mix soft with Graham flour, knead on board lightly, let re- 
main in dish to rise, then make into loaves and let rise again. 

Graham Bread with Soda. — Mix one cup warm water with two 
tablespoons syrup, one-half teaspoon soda and one cup white flour. 
Stir in Graham flour with a spoon until 
stiff. Set in a warm place one-half hour to 
rise and bake one and one-fourth hours. 




Graham Bread, Steamed. — Two cups 
Graham, two cups Indian meal, two cups 

sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one cup mo- 

lasses, one teaspoon soda, a little salt. Steam Pan for steaming Bread. 

two hours and dry a few minutes in hot oven. 

Quick Graham Bread. — One and a half pints sour milk, half 
cup New Orleans molasses, a little salt, two teaspoons soda dissolved 
in a little hot water, and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in 
with a spoon ; pour in well-greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed 
and bake two hours. 

Rye Bread with Soda. — Two and one-half cups sour milk, two- 
thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon salt, 
two cups sifted wheat flour and three and one-half cups rye meal — 
or if preferred all rye may be used. Bake in a loaf or gem pans. 

Rye and Indian Bread. — One quart of rye meal or rye flour, 
two quarts of Indian meal, scalded (by placing in a pan and pouring 
just enough hoiling water over it, stirrmg constantly with a spoon, 
to merely wet it, but not enough to make it into a batter), one-half 
teacup molasses, two teaspoons salt, one of soda, one teacup yeast ; 
make as stiff as can he stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm water, 
and let rise all night ; then put in a large pan, smooth the top with 
the hand dipped in cold water, let it stand a short time and bake five 
or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let it remain all 
night. Graham may be used instead of rye and baked as above. In 
the olden time it was placed in kettle, allowed to rise, then placed 
on the hearth before the fire, with coals on top of lid, and baked. 



30 BREAD-MAKING. 

Rye Bread.— M^\^e a sponge of one quart warm water, one tea- 
cup yeast, thickened Avith rye flour ; put in warm place to rise over 
night ; scald one pint corn meal ; when cool add it to sponge, and 
add rye flour till thick enough to knead, knead hit little, let rise, 
mold into loaves, place in deep pie-tins or small pudding-pans, let 
rise and bake ; or, thicken the sponge with rye flour, and proceed as 
above. Wheat sponge may be used instead of rye. 

Rye Bread. — Make sponge as for wheat bread, let rise over- 
night, then mix it up with the rye flour as stiff as can he kneaded, 
add to the quantity for three loaves of bread, two cups molasses and 
a very little grated orange peel. Let rise, mold into loaves and when 
risen, bake. 

Vienna Bread. — In some bakeries a peculiar gloss is given to 
the surface of Vienna bread by the introduction of a jet of steam 
into the oven while the bread "is baking ; but if when the bread made 
at home is half baked it is brushed over with a soft sponge wet in 
milk the loaf will present a glossy crust. No particular kind of oven 
is required, but it is necessary that the bread should be baked at 
a temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit. In the bakeries the 
dough is mixed in zinc-lined wooden troughs, but an ordinary earthen 
bread bowl may be used. The temperature of the room in which the 
bread is made should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the milk 
and water used for making the bread should be of the same degree 
of heat ; only the best bread flour should be used. The length of 
time required to complete the process is about three hours and a half 
The proportions of an ordinary family baking are four pounds of 
flour, three pints of milk and water, half an ounce of salt, and one 
and three-quarter ounces of very fresh compressed yeast. The pro- 
cess of making is as follows : Place the flour in the bread bowl, and 
in it put the milk, water, and salt ; mix with the liquid enough of 
the flour to make a very thin batter ; next rub the yeast to powder 
between the hands, and mix it into the batter ; cover the bowl close- 
ly, and let it stand for three-quarters of an hour. At the end of that 
time mix in the rest of the flour smoothly, and let the dough thus 
made stand again closely covered for two hours and a half, until it 
is light and elastic ; then cut it into pound pieces, and each pound 
into twelve equal parts ; flatten these small pieces of dough in squares 
three-quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to the center, pinch 
them down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made over on 
board covered with cloth; let them stand for about ten minutes, 
turn them up again on a baking-sheet, and put them into a hot oven 
to bake quickly, for about fifteen minutes ; when half done brush 
them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking them. 
This process seems to imply a little trouble to the bread-maker, but 
the delicious quality of thebread thus produced well repays the ex- 
tra pains taken in making it ; and a little practice will enable any 
person to accomplish the result successfully always. 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. Si 



BR.EAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



Good flour is especially important for biscuit, rolls and cakes. 

Wheat Flour, of the best quality, is of a dehcate cream color, 
dry to the touch, and heavier than the inferior grades. It sticks to 
the fingers, and when pressed in the hand it forms a kind of wad, or 
hall. If it is either pure white, bluish or grayish white, it is not to 
be trusted. 

What is called New Process Flour is of very superior quality, 
if genuine. It is made by crushing the wheat between rollers, and 
sifting out the germ, instead oi grinding it between millstones, and 
60 unavoidably combining some of the grit of the stone with it. 

There are two modes of testing its purity and richness. 

First, put a large pinch of it on the palm of the hand, press ii 
firmly, and rub it as smooth as possible, with the finger nail or a 
knife blade ; then hold it in a strong light, and you can readily 
judge of its cream-white color, its fineness, and whether it is spotted 
or contains bran. The softer it is to the touch and the thinner it 
can be spread, the better dough it will make. 

Another test is to fill the hollow of the hand with flour, make a 
hole in the center, and put in enough cold water to make a rather 
soft dough. If on stretching it it is tenacious, and seems to harden 
in the air, the flour is fresh and of good quality, as these qualities 
indicate the presence of gluten. But if the dough softens and is 
sticky and breaks easily when pulled it is unfit for fine bread or 
cakes. If it has any unpleasant odor it is unfit for any use. In all 
cases flour should be sifted before using, and before mixing it should 
be thorougly warmed through the whole mass. Flour, to keep well, 



32 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

must be covered closely from the air. Rye meal is much better than 
rye flour for making all kinds of bread and muffins, but the meal, 
like the old fashioned corn or Indian meal, grows musty in a short 
time in hot weather, so that but a small quantity should be bought 
at a time. 

In most families there is "a large amount of corn or Indian meal 
used, but the quantity purchased at a time depends upon the kind 
of meal selected. The common kind, which is made by grinding 
between two mill-stones, retains a great deal of moisture, and in 
hot weather, will soon grow musty ; but the granulated meal will 
keep for any length of time. The corn for this meal*is first dried; 
and it takes about two years for this. Then the outer husks are re- 
moved, and the corn is ground by a process that produces grains 
like granulated sugar. After once using this meal one will not will- 
ingly go back to the old kind. Indian meal is made from two kinds 
of corn, Northern and Southern. The former gives the yellow meal, 
and is much richer than the Southern, of which white meal is made* 
Sweet milk may be used in place of sour, and vice versa, remem- 
bering that the proportions are one level teaspoon soda.to one pint 
sour milk, and with sweet milk two heaping teaspoons baking pow- 
der, or two teaspoons cream tartar and one of soda, to one quart 
flour. It always pays best to buy pure soda and cream tartar 
at a higher price. They are more certain in action, and free from 
injurious foreign substances. 

Biscuit may be made by taking a part of the dough prepared 
for bread at the point when it is ready to make into loaves, knead in- 
to it a little more flour, with lard, eggs, sugar, or what ever is de- 
sired, let rise, then work again and let rise a second time, after 
which turn out on table and knead again a few minutes, roll out 
and cut out or mold with the hand for biscuit, when they are ready 
for the pan which should be well greased. Biscuit require a quick 
oven for from fifteen to twenty minutes. Before placing in the 
oven, wet the top slightly with warm water and a better brown will 
be given to the crust, or to glaze, brush over with milk and sugar 
or the yolk of an egg, sweetened and well beaten in a little milk. 

A very hot oven will bake biscuit in eight to ten minutes, but 
the oven should be allowed to cool off slowly as they bake and they 
must be watched closely to prevent burning. Bread or pastry 
mixed with water requires a hotter fire than that mixed with milk. 



BKEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 33 

It requires a longer time for tiscuits and rolls to rise before placing 
in the oven, as the heat arrests fermentation sooner in the small 
rolls than in the large loaves of bread which continue to rise after 
they have been placed in the oven. Biscuit should be molded two 
hours before the meal for which they are intended, and Parkerhouse 
rolls need three hours to rise. The most important point in both 
bread and rolls is to act promptly at each rising, just when the 
proper time has been reached. Handle soda biscuit as little as 
possible, and the whole process should be rapid. The soda and 
cream-tartar, or baking powder should be mixed with ,the flour 
so that effervescence takes place in the dough. A teaspoon soda and 
two of cream-tartar, or three teaspoons baking-powder to one 
quart of flour is the right proportion. Use baking-powder or soda 
and cream-tartar with sweet milk, and soda alone with sour milk. 
Place in hot pans and bake in quick oven immediately. A very hot 
oven is required for gems, but the fire should be ready to go down 
as the heat which is right at first would burn them when nearly 
done. White bread and biscuit should be pricked with a fork be- 
fore placing in the oven, but brown and graham bread do not need 
this treatment as the crust is porous. To freshen stale biscuit, bread 
or cake, plunge quickly for an instant into cold water, then place 
in the oven for a few minutes and use immediately. Heat and 
butter waffle irons, fill one side with batter, close and lay over the 
fire or on stove, turning in a few. minutes to the other side. They 
require about twice as long as griddle cakes. Ground cinnamon 
makes a nice dressing for them. Break muflBns but do not cut them 
in eating. 



Roll Glaze. — Take yolks of two eggs and twice their bulk in 
water and half a teaspoon of sugar ; put on with brush when rolls 
are half baked, return to oven and finish baking. 

Bannocks. — Wet one pint Indian meal with boiling water or 
milk. liCt stand a few minutes and add one egg, a little sweet cream 
or a tablespoon melted butter, and salt. Make into balls and fry in 
hot lard. 

ButtermUh Biscuit. — One quart flour, one teaspoon soda 
butter or lard size of an egg, a little salt, and buttermilk to make a 
soft dough. Roll out quickly and bake in hot oven. The fol- 
lowing way of -baking makes a pleasing novelty : Roll the 
dough thinner than ordinarily, spread well with butter previous 
3 



34 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

ly softened, dust over thickly with white sugar and roll it up ; cut 
slices off from the end the thickness of ordinary biscuit, put in but- 
tered pans and bake. 

Cream Biscuit. — Put three heaping tablespoons of sour cream 
into a bowl or pan holding a quart, and fill two-thirds full of sweet 
milk ; add two teaspoons cream-tartar, one teaspoon soda and a 
little salt, with flour enough to mix soft, and bake in quick oven. 

Kenilworth Biscuit. — Wash all particles of salt from one 
pound best butter and cream with scant one-half pound sugar. Dry 
and slightly warm two pounds flour and mix gradually with the 
hand with the butter and sugar. The longer it is kneaded the bet- 
ter it will be. Lay on molding board and press with the hand into 
sheets half an inch thick. Do not roll as rolling toughens it. Cut 
into any desired shapes, prick or stamp a pattern on top, and bake 
in a moderate oven until a fine yellow brown. 

Fairy Biscuit. — Beat well together two ounces butter and a 
half pound of flour, adding the white of one egg, one teaspoon milk, 
four ounces sugar, two ounces sweet, well pounded almonds, and work 
well into paste. Pinch off pieces the size of a half dollar and bake 
on buttered paper. 

Italian Biscuit or Rusks. — Sift three quarts of flour into a large 
pan, and work into it one half pound each of butter and sugar ; 
beat two eggs very light and stir them into one and a half pint of 
milk, adding two tablespoons rosewater and a gill of soft yeast. 
Make a hole in the dough, pour in the milk and slowly mix to a 
thick batter, cover and set to rise. Knead thoroughly when light 
and pull ofi a piece of dough the size of an egg and knead seperate- 
ly to make small rusks. Place in shallow pans, half an inch apart, 
prick with a fork, set to rise, and when very light bake in a moder- 
ate oven. Brushing over with Roll Glaze i ust before they are done. 
Eat while fresh. 

Oxford Biscuit. — Rub one pint butter into two quarts flour, mix 
in a tablespoon of cinnamon and two tablespoons of caraway seeds- 
Dissolve a teaspoon soda in three quarters pint milk, mix with a 
heaping pint of granulated sugar, add to above and work into a stiff 
dough. Knead thoroughly, roll out halface inch thick, cut with bis- 
cuit cutter, prick with fork, place in round pans, and bake to a 
light brown. 

Orloif Biscuit. — Cream three fourths pint, butter and a 
heaping pint sugar ; add three quarts flour, one quart sponge, and 
sweet milk enough to make a soft dough. Knead thoroughly and 
set to rise at night. In the morning, knead lightly, pull off small 
pieces, and make into round cakes one inch and a half in diameter 
and a half inch thick, place an inch apart on buttered tins, set in a 
warm place to rise, brush lightly with a little cold water, and let 
them slowly cool in the tins. 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



35 



Potato Biscuit. — One cup each butter, sugar, milk, hot mashed 
potatoes (free from lumps), one cup yeast and two 
eggs. Mix with enough flour to make a good batter, 
let rise, and add as much flour as can be stirred in 
with a spoon. Let rise again, roll out to half an inch thick, cut 
in small round cakes, put two together and when light bake. 

Rye Biscuit. — Two cups rye meal, one and a half cups flour, 
one egg, two cups sour milk, one-third cup molasses, salt and two 
teaspoons soda. Mix lightly, roll out and bake. 

South Carolina Biscuit. — One quart sweet cream or milk, one 
and a half cups butter or fresh lard, two tablespoons white sugar, 
one good teaspoon salt ; add flour sufficient to make a stiS" dough, 
knead well and mold into neat, small biscuits with the hands, as our 
grandmothers used to do ; add one good teaspoon cream tartar if 
preferred ; bake well, and you have good sweet biscuits that will keep 
for weeks in a dry place, and are very nice for traveling lunch. They 
are such as used to be sent to the army, and the "boys" relished 
them "hugely." 

Soda Biscuit. — Put one quart of flour, before sifting, into sieve 
with one teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar (or three of baking 
powder), one of salt, and one tablespoon white sugar; mix all 

thoroughly with the flour, run through 
sieve, rub in one level tablespoon of 
lard or butter (or half and half), wet 
with half pint Bweet -milk, roll on 
board about an inch thick, cut with 
biscuit cutter, and bake in a quick 
oven fifteen minutes. If you have 

Handle as 








Biscuit and Fancy Cake Cutters. 



not milk, use a" little more butter, and wet with water 
little and make as rapidly as possible. 

Spoon Biscuit. — One quart sour milk or buttermilk, one tea- 
spoon soda, a little salt, two tablespoons melted lard, and flour 
enough for a stifi" batter ; drop in a hot gem-pan and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Tea Biscuits. — Cook until mealy and tender three good sized 
potatoes, mash through colander, and add them to one quart flour 
in which two tablespoons of baking powder have been sifted, butter 
size of egg rubbed well through the flour, one well-beaten egg, one 
cup cream and milk enough to make a good firm dough. Roll out 
to one-half inch in thickness, cut into small cakes and bake in hot 
oven fifteen minutes. 

Unleavened Biscuit. — Five cups Graham flour, one cup warm 
(not hot) water^ white of one egg well-beaten. Bake in gem pans. 



36 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Coifee Bread. — One egg, one-half cup sugar, one cup milk, one- 
half cup yeast and flour to sponge. When light add one-half cup 
butter, worked in with the hands (not kneaded) and flour enough 
to make it soft so that it may be patted down into a greased pan to 
hake. Let rise again, put little specks of butter over the top, press 
them in and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Bake about twenty 
minutes, and cut in strips an inch wide for breakfast or lunch. 

Easter Bread. — One yeast cake, two cups each flour and water ; 
mix and set to rise overnight ; in the morning take six cups flour, 
two cups milk, one and one-half cups currants, one and one-half 
cups raisins, one-half cup sugar, butter the size of a large hen's 
egg rubbed in cold, one teaspoon salt ; mix and let rise until light, 
then mold and put in pans until light, then wet top with melted 
butter, and bake one hour. 

Buns. — Break one egg into a cup and fill with sweet milk ; mix 
with it half cup yeast, half cup butter, one cup sugar, enough flour 
to make a soft dough ; flavor with nutmeg. Let rise till very light, 
then mold into biscuit with a few currants. Let rise a second time 
in pan ; bake and, when nearly done, glaze with a little molasses 
in milk. Use the same cup, no matter about the size, for each 
measure. 

Currant Buns. — Four pounds light bread dough, eight ounces 
each of currants, sugar and softened butter. Roll the dough out, 
strew the currants over it and knead them in. Roll out again, then 
spread on the butter and sugar, cut in bands as wide as the hand 
and roll them up Brush them over with melted butter so that they 
will not stick together in the pans and cut off pieces an inch thick. 
Put in a buttered pan just touching each other, let them rise nearly 
an hour and bake. Brush over with sugar and water and dredge 
with sugar and cinnamon. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Set a sponge overnight with three cups 
sweet milk, one cup yeast and flour enough to make a stifl" batter. 
In the morning add one-half cup melted butter, one cup sugar, half 
a nutmeg, salt-spoon salt and flour enough to roll out. Knead well 
and set to rise five hours. Roll half an inch thick, cut into round 
cakes, and when thev have risen half an hour make a cross on each 
one with a knife an(i bake. 

Apple Cake. — Make like cinnamon cake, placing raw apples cut 
in eighths over the top, with the butter, cinnamon and sugar. Let 
rise and bake. 

Breakfast Cake. — Two tablespoons sugar, two of batter, two 
eggs, one cup milk, one (scant) quart flour, one teaspoon Bodh, vwo 
of cream tartar; bake twenty minutes in a quick oveii. 



BREAKFASr iNT) TKA CAKES 37 



Hominy Crumpets. — One cup boiled hominy, two cups milk, 
one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons melted butter, four table- 
spoons yeast, four cups flour, or enough to make a good batter, and 
a little salt well beaten together. Let rise six hours or until very 
light. Then add one-fourth teaspoon soda dissolved in a little hot 
water, put into muffin tins, let stand fifteen minutes and then bake 
quickly. To be eaten hot. For rice crumpets substitute one cup 
rice for the hominy. 

Royal Cmmpets. — Knead four tabiespoons melted butter, three 
eggs and one cup sugar into three cups raised dough. Bake twenty 
minutes in buttered tins and serve with sugar. 

Corn Dodgers. — To one quart corn meal add a little salt ana a 
small tablespoon lard ; scald with boiling water and beat hard for a 
few minutes ; drop a large spoonful in a well-greased pan. The bat- 
ter should be thick enough to just flatten on the bottom, lea^-ing 
them quite high in the center. Bake in a hot oven. 

Gems. — One tablespoon each sugar and butter, one egg, one 
cup milk, two teaspoons baking-powder, flour to stifien; beat sugar 
and butter to a cream and add the rest. This recipe makes one 
dozen gems. 

Corn Gems. — Two cups each com meal, flour 
and sweet milk, two eggs, three heaping teaspoons 
baking-powder, one-half cup each butter and sugar, 
and a little salt. Put into hot gem pans. 

Good Graham Gems. — Three cups sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, one of salt, one tablespoon brown sugar, one of melted lard, 
one beaten egg ; to the e^^ add the milk, then the sugar and salt, 
then the Graham flour (with the soda mixed in), together with the 
lard ; make a stifi" batter, so that it will drop, not pour, from the 
spoon. Have gem-pans very hot, grease, fill and bake fifteen min- 
utes in a hot oven. 

Siceet MilJc Gems. — Beat one ess. well, add a pint new milk, a 
little salt and Graham flour until it will drop off the spoon nicely ; 
heat and butter the gem-pans before dropping in the dough ; bake in 
a hot oven twenty minutes. 

Oat Meal Gems. — One cup cooked oat meal, or soaked over- 
night, in one cup water. Add one cup sour milk, one teaspooi? 
soda, one cup flour, a little salt, and bake in gem-pans. Try one first 
and if too moist or sticky add more flour,. 

Wheaten Gems. — Mix one teaspoon baking-powder and a ^ittlo 
salt into one pint flour : add to the beaten yolks of two eggs on« tea* 
cup sweet milk or cream, a piece of butter (melted) half the &ire of 
an egg, the flour with baking-powder and salt mixed, and the well 



Cwn Gem P&os. 



38 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

beaten whites of the two eggs. Beat well, bake immediately in gem- 
pans in a hot oven, and take out and send to the table immediately. 

Alabama Johnny- Cake. — Cook a pint of rice till tender, add a 
tablespoon butter; when cold add two beaten eggs and one pint 
meal, and when mixed spread on an oaken board and bake by tip- 
ping the board up before the fire-place. When done on one side turn 
over. The dough should be spread half an inch thick. 

Johnny-Cake.' — Two eggs, one cup sugar, one ana one-half of 
corn meal, two-thirds cup melted butter, or lard, two cups each sour 
milk and flour, two teaspoons each saleratus and salt. 

Johnny- Cake. — Two-thirds teaspoon soda, three tablespoons 
sugar, one teaspoon cream tartar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, six 
tablespoons Indian meal, three tablespoons flour, and a little salt. 
This makes a thin batter. 

Corn MuMns. — One quart sifted Indian meal, a heaping tea- 
spoon butter, one quart milk, a salt-spoon salt, a third cup yeast, a 
tablespoon of molasses ; let it rise four or five hours, and bake in 
muffin-rings. 

Corn MuiRns. — Two cups corn meal, one-half cup flour, one- 
fourth cup sugar, two eggs, butter size of a walnut, one teaspoon 
salt, two tea-spoons baking powder and enough sweet milk to make 
quite thin. Bake in gem pans. 

Cream MuMns. — Beat the yolks of three eggs with one teaspoon 
salt and stir in a half-pint sweet cream adding a half-pint of flour 
and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff" froth. Bake in 
buttered gem pans in quick oven from ten to fifteen minutes. 

Graham MuMns. — One egg, heaping tablespoon butter, one 
and a half cups milk, little salt, one teaspoon baking powder, 
Graham flour to stiffen. Put in slightly heated gem tins and bake. 

Graham MuMns. — Two cups sour milk, two tablespoons brown 
sugar, a little salt, one teaspoon soda, sufficient Graham flour to 
make moderately stiff". If not convenient to use sour milk, use 
sweet, adding cream of tartar. 

Indian MuMns. — Two cups Indian meal scalded with as little 
water as possible, one cup flour, one cup ^^^. ,^^^s^ -i^^^sst 
sweet milk, one tablespoon butter, half v^r ^^^^ ^^^W ' 

cup sugar, one small cup yeast. Let rise Heart Pan. Uar cake Pan. SoaUopPan. 

overnight and bake in rings for breakfeast. 

Rice MuMns. — One cup cold boiled rice, two eggs, one quart 
milk, one tablespoon butter, one teasppon salt, one pint flour and a 
teaspoon baking powder. 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



39 




N^un/s Puffs, (for tea). — Rinse a saucepan in water to lessen 
risk of burning and heat one pint of new milk with a <^^^^^^^^ 
quarter pound of butter to boiiing, stir in smoothly a \s?t:S^^'^^ 
half pound of flour and when cool beat in the yolks of pa£f Pans. 
nine eggs, adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth last. Bake in 
gem pans or cups, half filled, twenty minutes in hot oven. Some add 
a tablespoon of sugar. 

Egg Bolls. — To three well beaten eggs add one cup each of 
sugar, yeast and lard or butter, and a pint of sweet milk. Sponge at 
night, mix in the morning, adding a little soda ; roll them as pie 
crust, spread with lard, roll up and bake. 

Every-Day Rolls. — Take a piece of bread dough on baking 
day, when molded out the last time, about 
enough for a small loaf, spread out a little, 
add one egg, two tablespoons sugar and 
three-fourths cup lard ; add a little flour Every-Day rous. 

and a, small teaspoon soda if the least bit sour ; mix well, let rise, 
mold into rolls or biscuits, set to rise again, and they will be ready 
for the oven in twenty or thirty minutes. 

Finger Rolls. — Three and one-half cups sweet milk, one cup 
butter and lard mixed in equal proportions, one cup potato yeast, 
flour enough to make into dough. Let rise overnight ; in the morn- 
ing add one beaten egg, half cup sugar ; knead well and let rise. With 
the hands make into balls as large as a small 
hen's egg, then roll between the hands, or on 
a floured board, into long rolls, about four in- 
ches long and three-quarters of an inch in 
diameter, or size of the second finger; place 
in even rows in the pans, not too close together, 
or in roll pan. Let rise until light, bake delicately, and glaze by 
brushing lightly with the white of an egg. Or, to bread dough add 
half cup sugar, an egg, and cup butter, let rise and roll as above. 

French Rolls. — Peel six medium-sized mealy potatoes, boil in 
two quarts of water, press and drain both potatoes and w'ater through 
a colander ; when cool enough so as not to scald, add flour to make 
a thick batter, beat well, and when lukewarm add one-half cup pota- 
to yeast. Make this sponge early in the 
morning, and when light turn into a bread 
pan, add a teaspoon salt, half cup lard, and 
flour enough for a soft dough ; mix up and 
set in a warm, even temperature ; when risen, French eou Paa. 

knead down and place again to rise, repeating this process five or six 
times ; cut in small pieces and mold on the bread-board in rolls about 
one inch thick by five long ; roll in melted butter or sweet lard and 
place in well-greased baking pans (nine inches long by five wide 




Finger Rolls. 




40 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

and two and a half in depth, makes a convenient sized pan, which 
holds fifteen of these rolls ; or, if twice the width, put in two rows) ; 
press the rolls closely together so that they will only be about half 
an inch in width. Let rise a short time and bake twenty minutes in 
a hot oven ; if the top browns too rapidh^ , cover with paper. These 
rolls, if properly made, are very white, light and tender. 

Or, make rolls larger, and just before putting them in the oven, 
cut deeply across each one with a sharp knife. This will make the 
cleft roll, so famous among French cooks. 

French Rolls. — For about sixty split rolls, three large cups 
water or milk ; one large cup yeast ; heaping tablespoon salt ; two 
ounces each sugar and lard or butter ; four pounds flour. Set sponge 
at eight in the morning with half the flour, adding sugar and butter, 
then beat it again about one, add the salt and make up stiff" dough 
with the rest of the flour. Knead the dough on the table, alternately 
drawing it up in round shape and pressing the pulled-over edges 
into the middle and then pressing it out to a flat sheet, folding over 
and pressing out again. 

Brush the clean pan over with the least touch of melted lard or 
butter — which prevents sticking and waste of dough — place the dough 
in and brush that over, too. Where economy reigns the strictest, a 
little warm water in a cup and teaspoon lard melted in it will do 
for this brushing over and insures the truest saving and smoothest 
bread. Let the dough rise till four, then spread dough on table by 
pressing out with the knuckles till it is a thin uneven sheet. Double 
it over on itself and press the two edges together all around first. 
This imprisons air in the knuckle holes in large masses. Then 
pound and press the dough with the fists till it has become a thin 
sheet again, with the inclosed 
air distributed in bubbles all 
through it. Fold over and re- 
peat this process several times, 
then roll it up ; it will be like 
an air cushion. Let it stand a few minutes before making into plain 
rolls, cleft rolls, or loaves. Persons in practice find it quickest to 
pull off pieces of dough of right size and mold them up instantly. 
Others cut off" strips of dough, roll them in lengths and cut these up in 
roll sizes ; mold them up round with no flour on the board and only 
a dust on the hands, and place them in regular rows on the table — 
the smoothest side down ; take a little rolling pin — it looks like a 
piece of new broom handle — and roll a depression across the middle 
of each ; brush these over with the least possible melted lard or but- 
ter, using a tin-bound varnish brush for the purpose ; double the 
rolls, the two buttered sides together lis seen in the cut above, and 
place them in the pans diagonally, with plenty of room so they will 
not touch ; brush over the tops of the rolls in the pans with the least 





BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 41 

poss.Me melted lard again, and set them to rise about an hour — less or 
more according to temperature. Bake in a hot oven, about ten min- 
utes ; brush over v/ith clear water when done. 

Graham Rolls. — Mix thoroughly with a spoon one quart each 
of Graham and white flour, one and a half pints lukewarm water, 
one gill each of molasses and yeast, two ounces drippings or butter, 
two teaspoons salt. Let rise, drop in buttered roll pans and bake. 
For breakfast mix at night. 

Italian Rolls. — A pound of bread dough, quarter-pound soft- 
ened butter; work the butter well into the 
dough, and roll out about half fii-> inch thick ; 
cut into strips nearly an inch wide and seven 
or eight inches long; sift over them fine 

corn meal, place them apart on a buttered ' uaiiaE roufIT^ 

pan, and when light bake in a quick oven. 

Oatmeal Rolls. — To one cup oatmeal mush add half cup sweet 
milk, thicken wiih white flour till stiff enough to roll, roll out one 
inch thick, cut out with a cutter four inches long by one and a half 
inches wide. Sprinkle a pan with corn meal, place in rolls and bake 
at once in a hot oven from half to three quarters of an hour. 

Parker House Rolls. — Rub one-half tablespoon of butter, and 
one-half tablespoon of lard into two quarts of sifted flour ; into a 
well in the middle pour one pint of cold boiled milk, and add one- 
half cup of yeast, one-half cnp su^ir, and a little salt. If wanted 
for tea, rub the flour and butter, and boil the milk, and cool it the 
night before ; add sugar, yeast and salt, and turn all into the flour, 
but do not stir. Let stand overnight ; in the morning stir up, knead 
and let rise till near tea time ; mold antl let rise again, and bake 
quickly. To mold, cut wit!i cake-cutter ; put a little melted butter 
on one-half aud lap nearly over on the other half. Place them in 
the pan about three-quarters of an inch apart. 

Ring Rolls. — Make dough as for Finger Rolls, roll to the same 
thickness in strips eight or nine inches in length and pinch together 
in a ring with about three inches space in the center. Be careful 
not to have the rolls of dough too large, as they will rise. 

SnowHahe Rolls. — Make like pie crust, roll pretty nearly_ as thin, 
cut into narrow strips, roll and twist them in the hands, pinch the 
ends together and bake in hot oven ten minutes. Eat with honey. 

Vienna Rolls. — Have ready in a bowl a tablespoon of butter 
or lard, made soft by warming a little, and stirring with a spoon. 
Add to one quart of unsifted flour two heaping teaspoons baking 
powder ; mix and sift thoroughly together, and place in a bowl with 



42 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 



butter. Take more or less sweet milk as may be necessary to form 
a dough of usual stiffness, according to the flour (about three-fourths 
of a pint), put into the milk half a teaspoon of salt, and then stir 
it into the flour, etc., with a spoon, forming the dough, which turn 
out on a board and knead sufficiently to make smooth. Roll out 
half an inch thick, and cut with a large round cutter ; fold each one 
over to form a half round, wetting a little between the folds to make 
them stick together ; place on buttered pans, so as not to touch, wash 
over on top with milk to give them a gloss, and bake immediately 
in a hot oven about twenty minutes. It will do them no harm to 
etand half an hour before baking, if it is desired. 

Vienna Bolls. — Two pounds flour; two cups milk; one-half 
cake compressed yeast, or one-half cup potato yeast ; two teaspoons 
each sugar and salt. Make the milk lukewarm and dissolve the 
yeast in it. Set sponge at nine in the morning, at noon add the salt 
and sugar an d make up stiff dough. Let risj till about four. Ther, 

work the dough well on the 
table by pressing out and fold- 
ing over. Roll out the dough 
in one large sheet as thin as you 
can, which will be about tht 
thinness of a dinner plate edge ; 
then, measuring v»ith hand, cat 
the dough into strips or bards 
as wide across as hand i,:. lo..g. 
Cut these again into triangul r 
pieces for rolls, not equal sided but long and narrow triangle:-.. Ro' 
these triangular pieces up, beginning at the broad bottom end, and 
the point will come up in the middle, and there Avill be a spiral mark 
around from end to end. Give each roll a few turns under the hands 
to smooth it and place it on the baking-pan in the form of a crescent 
— just the shape and size of the new moon. Brush over with water 
or melted lard. Let rise in the pans about half an hour and bake 
about ten minutes. 

Victoria Rolls. — Separate one of the Favorite loaves into ten 
irregular pieces of thickness of about half an inch. Take separately 
each piece in left hand, and slightly stretch with thumb and fore- 
finger of right hand one of the irregular points over left thumb to- 
Avards center of roll. Repeat this operation, turning piece of dough 
as it proceeds, each time lifting thumb and gently pressing it up- 
on last fold until all the points have been drawn in, when roll can 
be placed to rise. If folding has been properly done, the roll when 
baked will be composed of layers of delicate, tenacious crumb sur- 
rounded with a thin crisp crust. The fingers can be slightly greased 
to keep the dough from sticking ; but if of the proper consistency 
it will not stick. 




Vienna Rolls. 



Breakfast and tea cakes. 4S 

Baking Powder Riisk. — Mix the beaten yolks of three eggs 
with a half cup butter and one cup sugar. Make a dough of the con- 
sistency of bread dough of a quart of sifted flour wet with water, in 
which two heaping teaspoons of baking powder and one of salt has 
been well mixed. Then add the eggs, butter and sugar, form into 
little cakes, rub the tops with sugar and water, sprinkle dry sugar 
over them and bake immediately. 

Fancy Rusk. — Break an egg into a cup, beat light and fill up 
with milk, add half cup sponge, three-fourths cup sugar, one-fourth 
cup butter, enough flour for soft dough and a little cinnamon. Knead 
well, let rise, knead again, form into small rolls with buttered fin- 
gers and place in deep pan. Let them get very light before baking. 

Lebanon Rusk. — One cup mashed potatoes, one of sugar, one of 
home-made yeast, three eggs ; mix together ; when raised light, add 
half cup butter or lard, and flour to make a soft dough, and, when 
quite light, mold into small cakes, and let them rise again before 
baking. If wanted for tea, set about nine a. m. 

Marhlehead Rusk. — Warm six ounces butter, two of sugar and 
half cup milk, or cream, with one pound dough, mix well, beat in 
yolks of ten eggs, two at a time, and add gradually one and one- 
fourth pounds flour. Knead, set to rise, in three hours knead again, 
let rise, knead yet again, and finish as Parker-house Rolls. The 
dough may be flavored with vanilla, vanilla and rose mixed, orange, 
nutmeg, or lemon rind and little juice. Add raisins, currants and 
citron if liked. 

Southern Egg Bread. — Two cups white Indian meal, one cup 
cold boiled rice, three well beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted but- 
ter, two and a half cups milk, or enough for a soft batter, one tea- 
spoon salt and a pinch soda. Stir the beaten eggs into the milk, 
then the meal, salt and butter, and lastly of all the rice. Beat up 
well from the bottom two or three minutes, and bake quickly in a 
round shallow pan. 

Scones. — Rub one-fourth pound butter and enough sweet milk 
to make a smooth paste into one quart sifted flour and two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder. Roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, 
cut into triangular cakes each side about four inches long, lay on 
buttered tin, and bake in hot oven. When half done brush over 
with sweet milk. 

Sally Lunn. — Sift into a pan a pound and a half flour, put in 
two ounces butter warmed in a pint new milk, one saltspoon salt, 
three eggs well beaten, and two tablespoons good yeast. Mix well 
together, and put the whole into a tin pan well greased, and set to 
rise all night. Bake a little brown in a quick oven. Warm the milk 
and butter over water until the butter is melted ; beat the eggs in a 



44 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

two-quart tin pail, and if the milk is not hot pour it over them. Stir 
in half the flour, then add the yeast, stirring thoroughly wilh the 
rest of the flour. Let rise overnight. Some add two tablch-poons 
sugar and use a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar instead of 
the yeast. 

Trifles. — Three-quarters cup cream (milk may be used with a 
teaspoon butter), three eggs beaten separately, scant teaspoon baking 
powder, pinch each salt and cinnamon ; flour to roll out ; roll as thin 
as can be, cut into two-inch squares, drop in hot lard prepared as 
described in doughnut preface; place on brown paper to drain and 
sprinkle with pulverized sugar; or add more milk, making batter a 
little thicker than for pancakes, press through a meringue bag as de- 
scribed in confectionery preface into the hot lard in rings or any 
shapes wished. When done drain and sprinkle as above. 

Cream Cracknels. — One pound flour, ten ounces butter, two 
tablespoons sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, nine tablespoons sour 
cream ; add salt and sugar to the flour, rub in the butter, and knead 
into a soft dough with the cream ; flour the board, turn out the 
dough, and break off small i^ieces, wdiich roll with the hand about 
nine inches long, and shape into cracknels ; rub over with beaten 
eggs, and sprinkle ])lentifully with sugar and cinnamon mixed; 
bake on tins in a moderate oven. 

Cream Crisps. — Put two and a-half cups good rich cream, either 
Bweet or sour, in a crock and add gradually four cups unsifted hest 
Graham flour, and half a cup sugar, then take out on 
board and knead well with one more cup Graham. ^^^^^^ 
The dough wants to be very stiff and kneaded thor- ''^^^^^^ 
oughly. Roll out as thin as for thin cookies, cut cream crups. 
with biscuit cutter, prick well and place in pans slightly buttered for 
first panfuU, not greasing afterwards, in a rather hot oven, and bake 
immediately, putting them in bottom of oven first, and then in the 
upper oven to brown. If wanted "extra nice," sift the flour (using 
about one-eishth more flour). The quantity of sugar can be in- 
creased or diminished, but for health's sake this is sufficient, oreven 
less. Properly made, they will be crisp and delicious. 

Waffles. — INIix thoroughly one quart of flour, teaspoon salt, ta- 
bleppooa melted butter, and milk enough to made a thick batter; 
add two well-beaten eggs, two teaspoons cream tartar and one of 
soda. Stir well and bake immediately in waffle irons. 

Waffles without Yeast or Soda. — Melt two ounces butter in one 
pint milk, and when cooled stir in a half teaspoon salt and a 



BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 45 



scant pint and a half flour. Beat whites and yolks of three eggs 
separately, stirring in the yolks and then the whites very lightly. 

Wafers.— One pint sifted flour, saltspoon salt, one ounce lard 
or butter, white of one egg, and sweet milk enough to make dough 
to roll out. Boat with a roUing pin for twenty minutes or longer. 
Every stroke adds sweetness to the wafers. Form dough into balls 
size of pigeon's egg and roll to size of a saucer, or as thin as can he. 
Sprinkle flour over tins and bake with care. 

Sweet Wafers.— One pint flour, one cup sugar, three eggs, one 
tablespoon butter, flavor with lemon, mix into batter same as for 
cake, and bake in wafer irons. 

Walnuts. — Sift one quart of flour, take one-fourth of it, and add 
rather more than half a cake compressed yeast, dissolved in half a 
i^ill warm water, make into sponge with a very little more water, put 
it in a warm place ; when it is double its size make a hole in the 
center of the rest of the flour, and put in it a teaspoon each salt and 
sugar, two tablespoons tepid water, three-quarters pound butter 
and four eggs ; beat well, then add another egg, beat again, and add 
another, and so on until seven have been used ; the paste rnust be 
soft, but not spread ; if too firm, add another egg. Now mix this 
paste thoroughly with the sponge, beating until the paste leaves the 
sides of the bowl, then put it in a crock and cover; let stand four 
hours in a warm place, turn it out on a board, spread it and double 
it four times., return it to the crock, and let it rise again two hours ; 
repeat the former process of doubling and spreading, and put it in a 
very cold place for two hours, or until wanted for use. Mold in any 
form liked, but a preferred way is to make two pieces, one as large 
again as the other ; form the large one into a ball, make a deep de- 
pression in the center, on which place the smaller ball, pressing it 
gently in ; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp knife, and 
bake a beautiful golden brown. These Walnuts are the same as the 
renowned French Brioche. 

Weimarlies. — Take one quart bread dough, or make a sponge 
with a pint flour and a yeast-cake soaked in half a pint warm water 
or milk, then add another pint flour ; when light add four tablespoons 
butter, a little sugar, and two eggs ; work well. If bread dough is 
used, dredge in a little more flour on account of eggs, but not very 
much ; let rise, and when lighter than for bread, proceed as m making 
rolls by pushing it down with fist till not larger than when put in pan ; 
let rise and again push down but not so much as before ; let rise, and 
push down again ; then turn dough on molding board lightly floured, 
roll as pie-crust into pieces six inches square, and quarter of an inch 
thick, make two sharp, quick cuts across from corner to corner, and 
there will be from each square, four three-cornered pieces of paste ; 
spread each thinly with soft butter, flour lightly, and roll up, as in 
Vienna Rolls, (page 42) very lightly from the wide side, taking care 



46 YEAST. 

that it is not squeezed together in any way ; lay them on a tin with 
the side on which the point comes uppermost, and bend round in 
the form of ahorse shoe ; these will take some time to rise ; when 
they have swollen much and look light, brush over with white of 
egg (not beaten) or milk and butter, and bake in a good oven. 
Kringles are made as above only add another egg and two table- 
spoons sugar (powdered) and instead of rolling as pie-crust, break 
off pieces, roll between the hands until thick as fingers, and form 
into figure eights, rings, fingers, or make twists 
as in cut ; or take three strips, flour and roll 
them as thick as the finger, tapering at each 
end ; lay them on the board, fasten the three 
together at one end, and then lay one over the other in a plait, fast- 
en the other end, and set to rise ; bake, and when done, brush over 
with sugar dissolved in milk and sprinkle with sugar. 




Yeast. 



Bread made with potato yeast, with or without hops, is moist. 
When hops are not added, there is no danger of using too much 
yeast, but there is a property in hops which preserves the yeast from 
souring as soon as potato yeast without them. Dry yeast should 
be made in May for summer and in October for winter use. In hot 
or damp weather dry yeast sometimes loses its vitality, but its con- 
venience recommends its use, as it does not sour in summer or 
freeze in winter. Soft hop or potato yeast will keep in a cool place 
one to two weeks in warm weather and four to six weeks in cold 
weather (if not allowed to freeze) but it is better if made fresh every 
week or two the year round. Yeast that has soured never makes good 
bread. It may be used to start fresh yeast, but never for making 
bread. Use either dried or pressed, but never fresh hops. Dried 
hops keep a year, but pressed hops even longer. Those showing 
pollen dust are best. Either should be kept in a paper sackin avery 
cool place. Boil hops (without tying in a cloth, as that prevents 
the pollen dust, an important portion from getting into the yeast) in 
a ne?/J coffee-pot and make the yeast in a hright tin pan kept for this 
purpose alone. "When thick like starch place in a large jar, cover^ 
set in a pan in a warm (but not hot) place, and stir down as it fer- 
ments, adding yeast, as given in a recipe, when milk warm. When 
risen sufficiently, which will be in about a day, a thick white scum 
rises to the top ; then place in a stone or glass jar with close fitting 



YEAST. 4*? 

cover, or in a jug, on the cellar bottom, in the refrigerator, or some 
other cool place. Fill jar to brim, leave cork loose for twelve hours 
then tighten perfectly. Shake jug before using. Extreme heat or 
freezing kills the yeast plant. When empty, jug or jar must be 
washed first in cold and then in hot water which may stand in it 
a half hour, then let jar cool and it is ready for use. The cork or 
cover must be washed with equal care. Yeast is often spoiled for 
want of strict neatness and attention in washing jar. The following 
are equal in strength : One pint potato yeast, one teacup hop 
yeast, a piece of compressed yeast size of a walnut, one yeast cake, 
or two-thirds of a teacup of yeast crumbs. "Well made yeast cakes 
will keep good if put in a tin box in a dry place from two to three 
months. When yeast cakes that have been put to soak are quite 
soft mash them entirely and stir them thoroughly with the sponge. 
Their odor and taste is sometimes thought to be given to the bread, 
rendering their use objectionable ; but if properly used one cannot 
perceive any difference between bread made with them and with 
soft yeast. A difference of opinion exists in regard to the use of cooked 
and raw potatoes for yeast. Individually we prefer the grated potatoes, 
but others use them boiled with good success. Boiled potatoes should 
be mashed fine and put through a colander before using for yeast, and 
raw ones must be peeled and grated into a crock coni,aining suf- 
ficient water to cover them, which prevents their darkening and so 
discoloring the yeast and bread. Some grate the potatoes with a quan- 
tity of water, letting stand until they settle to the bottom and then 
pouring off the water. 



Dry T'east. — Boil half pound of hops in gallon of water until 
reduced to two quarts. Strain, mix in wheat flour enough to make 
a thin batter and add a half pint of fresh, good yeast. When fer- 
mented work with corn meal to a stifi" dough ; cover and set in a 
warm place to rise ; when light roll into a sheet an inch thick and 
cut into small cakes, three inches across ; spread them on a platter 
and dry in a cool shade; turn them several times a day and when 
dry put in paper bags, set in a covered box, and keep in a cool and 
perfectly dry place. One cake is sufficient for four quarts of flour. 
To use, dissolve in a little warm water or milk, stir briskly, thicken 
with a little flour, cover and set in a warm place to rise. Or, to 
make Yeast with Potatoes : Boil one quart of pared and sliced po- 
tatoes, with a double-handful of hops, in a muslin bag, in two quarts 



48 YEAST. 

of water, for three-quarters of an hour, and strain through a fine 
sieve. Stir in flour enough to make a thick batter, beat well, add 
two tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, and pet in a warm place to rise. 
When light, stir in a coffee-cupful of Indian meal, work and roll 
out one-quarter of an inch thick, and cut into round cakes. Dry 
and pack them like the preceding. 

Hop Yeast. — Steep an eighth ounce of pressed, or a handful of 
loose hops, in a quart of boiling water, five minutes. Strain 
the boiling infusion upon a half-pint of flour, stirred to a smooth 
paste with a little cold water. Mix well, boil a minute; then add 
one ounce of salt and two ounces of white sugar. When luke-warm 
stir in a gill of liquid yeast or an ounce cake of compressed yeast 
dissolved in some water. Let stand twenty-four hours stirring oc- 
casionally, then cover closely and set in a cool place. Made in this 
way, yeast will keep two weeks in summer or longer in winter, and 
may be used at any time while sweet for starting a fresh supply of 
yeast or for making bread. 

Catnip Yeast. — Pare and boil six medium sized potatoes ; tie 
in a clean white cloth one handful catnip (fresh or dry) and boil 
with potatoes ; when they are thoroughly cooked take out catnip, 
mash potatoes with a fork, and if not smooth put through a colan- 
der or seive ; add a half teaspoon ginger, handful sugar, teaspoon 
salt, and water in which potatoes were cooked to make about two 
quarts, cool to blood heat, add half-pint yeast. Set in a warm 
place to rise. It will rise rather slowly in making, but will raise 
cakes, bread, etc., quicker than hop yeast. The advantage of catnip 
over hops is that more yeast can be used in cold weather, as is al- 
ways necessary, without danger of giving a bitter taste. This is es- 
pecially nice for buckwheat cakes. 

Lightning Yeast. — To a half-cup warm water add a pinch each 
salt and sugar and stir in corn meal until quite thick. Put in a 
warm place over night, or stirred in the morning and kept warm it 
will be light in a few hours. Put about two tablespoons of this 
lightning in your rising and it will be up in an hour. The yeast 
will not look very light but will be very porous. 

Potato Yeast. — Take a small handful of hops, put in a granite 
kettle with three quarts water and boil till desired strength is ob- 
tained. Grate six medium-sized potatoes ; into the grated potato 
put one cup sugar and one-half cup salt. Turn on this mixture the 
boiling hop water ; stir till it thickens. Set away to cool until just 
warm, then stir in one cup of yeast. Set it to rise ; when done foam- 
ing, put it in glass jars. Keep it in a cool place ; or pare and boil 
lour ordinary sized potatoes in two quarts oi water, boiling at the 
same time in a separate vessel a good handful of hops. When po- 
tatoes are done, mash fine, pass throuh a colander, and add, after 
eiraining, the water in which the hops were boiled ; put into this 



YEAST. 49 

one cup white sugar and one-half cup salt, and add sufficient water 
to make one gallon ; when cold add one cup good yeast, let stand 
in a warm place for a few hours, until it will " sing" on being stirred, 
when it is ready for use. Keep covered in a cellar or cool pla<3e. 

Potato Yeast. — Take eight good-sized potatoes, boil until done 
take one teacup sugar, one of salt, not too full, one teaspoon ginger, 
one large heaping spoonful wheat flour. Mix all together, put in 
the potato hot and mash fine in the water they were boiled in. Do 
not have it thicker than batter. When cool put in two yeast cakes, 
soaked in warm water, then let it get thoroughly light, put in a 
stone jar and put in a cool place. It will keep over a month. 

Potato-Ball Yeast. — Boil and mash four or five medium-sized 
potatoes, or enough to make about a pint, add scant tablespoon each 
salt, white sugar and when cool a half package compressed yeast, or 
if you cannot get the compressed, take half cake dry yeast, soak in 
as little water as possible and add ; mold into a ball, lay away where 
it will not freeze ; after a day prepare potatoes in same way except 
that instead of adding yeast when cool, add first ball, work togeth- 
er thoroughly and mold into two balls of same size. These are 
ready for use any time after twelve hours, and one will be sufficient 
to raise four ordinary loaves. Set sponge overnight, dissolving the 
potato ball in about a quart of lukewarm water, which will be suffi- 
cient wetting. A supply of this yeast can be kept on hand by pre- 
paring potatoes and making a new ball as above directed the day 
before baking ; or Brookside Yeast is made by stirring together 
three tablespoons mashed potatoe, tablespoon white sugar, level tea- 
spoon salt and quarter of a yeast cake, softened sufficient to mix well. 
After mixing place in an earthen bowl or jar, cover with a saucer, and 
put in a place of moderate temperature ; ready for use next day, 
but will keep a week or more in summer, and three or four weeks in 
winter. To make more take a tablespoon of above and add it to 
three or four times above recipe omitting the yeast cake. This is 
never failing and very easily made and kept. 

Yeast Without Yeast. — Take tablespoon and a half each New 
Orleans molasses and warm water, stir in enough flour for a thin 
batter and set in warm place. It will soon begin to throw up bub- 
bles and in a short time ferment. While waiting for this, make 
ready for it by boiling a teacup of hops in two quarts water twenty 
minutes ; strain and stir in a pint flour and tablespoon salt, beating 
until free from lumps. Put over the fire again and boil until of the 
consistency of good starch ; if too thick, thin with boiling water. 
Turn into a bowl, cover, and let stand till lukewarm and stir in the 
rising of molasses, etc. Set where it will be kept warm, but not 
hot, until light, when place in a jug, cork tight, and put away in a 
cool place. 



50 TOAST. 

Yahoo Yeast. — Mix one quart flour, one teacup sugar, two tea- 
spoons alum with warm water to a creamy consistency, and add one 
teacup yeast. When well risen it can be made into cakes with meal 
and dried ; or for Saltless Yeast, wash, pare and boil six potatoes ; 
when done, pour potatoes and water upon half quart flour in pan, 
mash to a smooth naste, add more boiling water if needed, one 
tablespoon sugar and thin with ice water till like thick cream. When 
tepid, add half pint yeast and finish as directed in general directions. 
Some claim that grated raw potato yeast can in winter be frozen 
solid and kept so, thawing as wanted and then refreezing. This 
might be well worth trying. 



Toast. 



Although toast is commonly used, few know how to prepare it 
nicely. Take bread not too fresh, cut thin and evenly, trim off the 
crust-edges for the crumb-jar; first warm each side of the bread, then 
present the first side again to the fire until it takes on a rich, even 
brown color ; treat the other side in the same way. The coals should 
be bright and hot. Toast properly m.ade is very digestible, because 
all the moisture is extracted, and the bread has become pure farina 
of wheat; but when it is exposed to a hot fire and the outside 
charred, the inside remains as moist as ever, 
and butter applied to it while warm does not 
penetrate, but floats on the surface in the 
form of rancid oil. Vegetable and meat 
toasts are improved by dipping the slices in 
a shallow dish of hot water, slightly salted, 
in which a piece of butter has been melted. 
This should be done always when toast is' 
hastily prepared and served. Dry toast 
made after the recipe giv>.;n is an excellent foundation for the various 
dishes under this heading, as it n^ay be prepared in a quantity and 
kept a long time, and is thus always at hand. 

Anchovy Toast. — Slice bread the day after baking, and toast il 
evenly and quickly ; reiu ove the crust, spread with a little butter, 
and tnen with ancnovy butter made as follows : Scrape the skin 
from a dozen fine anchovies, take the flesh from the bones, pound it 
smooth in a mortar ; rub throufjh a hair-sieve, put the ancbovies 




TOAST. 51 

into the mortar with three-fourths pound fresh butter, a small quan- 
tity cayenne, and a saltspoon each of grated nutmeg and mace ; heat 
together until thoroughly blended. 

Asparagus Toast. — Wash the asparagus clean, cut off the white 
part except a mere end, put into slightly salted boiling water, boil 
five minutes, pour otF water, add more boiling hot ; boil ten to fifteen 
minutes, then put in a lump of butter, salt and pepper (some stir in 
a thickening made of one teaspoon flour mixed up with cold water) ; 
cut and toast thin slices of bread, spread with butter and put in a 
dish, and over them turn asparagus and gravy. The water must be 
boiled down until just enough for the gravy, which is made as 
above. 

Breakfast Toast. — Chop cold steak or tongue very fine, cook in 
a little water, put in cream or milk, thicken, season with butter, salt 
and pepper, and pour it over slices of toast. Cold boiled beef or 
fried liver may be used instead of steak. Prepare boiled ham in the 
same way, adding the yolk of an egg. 

Buttered Toast. — Toast slices' of bread as directed in preface, 
butter well and serve immediately ; or, beat one cup butter and three 
tablespoons flour to a cream., pour over this one and a half pints 
lolling water ; place over a kettle of boiling water for ten minutes, 
dip into it the toast, and serve hot ; or, dip each slice of toast in 
boiling hot water (slightly salted), spread with butter, cover and 
keep hot. 

Cheese and Egg Toast. — Melt a cup cheese crumbs in a half 
pint ri'ch milk seasoned with salt, pepper and butter to taste, and 
stir in two well beateri eggs. Cook a few minutes, stirring constantly. 
Spread over toasted bread and serve on hot platter. 

Cream Toast. — Scald but do not boil one quart milk, salted, and 
thicken with two tablespoons flour or one of corn starch ; add two 
tablespoons butter and the whipped whites of three eggs or a gill of 
cream. Boil up once and pour over the toast, lifting each lower 
slice so that the mixture may penetrate them. The slices of toast 
should first be dipped into a shallow dish of hot water into which a 
tablespoon of butter has been melted. Excellent without the egg or 
cream. 

Chicken Toast. — Prepare the meat as for beefsteak toast, using 
with or instead of cream or milk the gravy from the chicken when 
you have it. Delicious. 

CodUsh Toast. — Make a codfish cream as given in "Fish Reci- 
pes" and pour over slices of nicely buttered toast. Chipped dried 
beef ma V be served in same wav. 



52 



TOAST. 



Dry Toast. — After bread dough has been prepared for biscuits 
by adding egg, butter and sugar, make into long, narrow loaves, 
place in pan, let rise and bake. Day after baking slice thin, put in 
large baking pan and brown in oven, turning and browning other 
side. A quantity can be browned, or brown as needed each day. 
Serve with soup, or very nice broken in milk, tea or coflfee. 

Egg Toast. — Break eggs in sufficient boiling hot (but not really 
boiling) water to cover them, slightly salted. Simmer gently until 
the eggs are delicately cooked, or until the yolks are covered with a 
white film. Take them np with a skimmer, and lay each on a slice 
of buttered toast, previously dipped in salted hot water. Butter and 
pepper may be added at table, and eat with Worcestershire sauce. 
This is an unexcelled breakfast dish. 

Excellent Toast. — Cut slices of a uniform thickness of half an 
inch ; move around over a brisk fire, to have all parts toasted alike ; 
keep only so near the coals that the pieces will be heated through 
when both sides are well browned. If the slightest point is blacken- 
ed or charred, scrape it off or it will spoil the flavor of the whole. 
If covered with an earthen bowl, it will keep both warm and moist. 
A clean towel or napkin will answer if it is to go at once to the table. 
Stale bread may be used for milk-toast ; sour bread may be improv- 
ed by toasting it through, but sweet, light bread, only a day old or 
less, makes the best toast. 

French Toast. — Add to one-half pint sweet milk two table- 
spoons sugar, a little salt and a well-beaten egg ; dip in this slices of 
bread (if dry, let it soak a minute), fry on a buttered griddle until it 
is a light brown on each side ; sprinkle with sugar and serve. This 
is a good way to use dry bread. 

Lemon Toast. — Into three cups sweet milk stir the well-beaten 
yolks of six eggs. Dip slices of bread into the mixture and fry in 
butter to a delicate brown ; froth the whites of the eggs, add a large 
cup white sugar, two cups boiling water, and the juice and a little of 
the grated rind of two lemons. Pour this juice over the toast and 
you nave a delicious supper dish. 

Mennonite Toast. — Beat up three eggs well, add a pint sweet 
milk and a pinch salt ; cut slices an inch thick from a loaf baker's 
bread, remove crust, dip slices into the eggs and milk, fry like dough- 
nuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a delicate brown, butter and 
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. 

Oyster Toast. — Prepare an oyster stew with plenty of milk, 
lightly seasoned with butter or cream if you have it, pepper, salt, 
etc., and pour over slices of toast previously dipped in not water. 
Place oysters carefully on the slices and serve on hot platter. 



TOAST. 



53 



Sausage Toast. — Is made by scalding the sausages in boiling 
water, frying to light brown, chop fine, and spread on bits of toast. 

Tomato Toast. — Run a quart of stewed ripe tomatoes through 
a colander, place in a porcelain stew-pan, season with butter, pepper 
and salt and sugar to tastv3 ; cut slices of bread thin, brown on both 
sides, butter and lay on a platter, and just as the bell rings for tea 
add a pint of good sweet cream to the stewed tomatoes, and pour 
them over toast. 

Marrow-Bone Toast. — Cover two beef shinbones, five to seven 
inches long, with dough and wrap in muslin ; cover with hot water 
and boil an hour and a half Remove cloth and dough, shake or 
draw out the marrow with a fork upon slices of hot toast ; season 
with salt, a bit of cayenne and a little chopped celery. 

Oyster Toast. — Take one and a half dozen nice oysters, chop 
fine, put in saucepan with some of their liquor, add pepper and a 
small pinch of nutmeg ; cook a minute or two, stir in the beaten 
yolks of two eggs and a gill of cream ; let boil up once, add salt and 
pour over slices of buttered bread ; serve hot. 

Salmon Toast. — Mince some canned salmon fine, put in sauce- 
pan with a little milk or cream, let heat, season and serve on toast. 
Poaching egg and placing on center of each slice of toast, putting 
the salmon around the egg, is a more elaborate manner of serving, 
and is very delicious 

Toncfue Toast. — Put finely chopped cold tongue in saucepan 
with a little water ; when heated add a small lump butter, salt and 
pepper, then stir in two beaten eggs and pour mixture on each slice 
of toast ; or add Avith the seasoning milk to make quite a gravy ; 
stir in a little thickening of flour and water, let boil a few moments, 
and pour over the toast without adding eggs. The latter way is good 
for any bits of meat, fowl or game, and requires less than without 
the milk. 

Water Toast. — Cut either white or Graham bread into slices a 
quarter of an inch thick, trim off crusts and brown in a moderate 
oven, as in Dry Toast recipe. This is the way to prepare all toasts, 
as all the n^ioisture is thus evaporated, while holding before the fire 
only warms the moisture, making inside of bread doughy and indi- 
gestible. For dry toast, butter slightly and serve in a folded napkin 
if wished hot, as racks allow heat to escape ; dip edges into hot 
water quickly, and butter at once. In making milk toast, wet the 
utensil to be used in cold water, as this will prevent burning. 



54 CAKE-MAKING. 



OAKE-MAKIlSTGh. 



Neatne-jS in every department is a necessity for the comfort of 
the family ; but lack of neatness in the kitchen is an abomination. 
In every process of cookery and, especially in bread and cake mak- 
ing, everything must be scrupulously clean from the cook to the 
smallest utensil used in mixing or baking. 

The first step is to gather all necessary materials together. 
Weigh and measure all materials. Sift flour and sugar before meas- 
uring. If flour is moist spread it out on a sheet of tin and dry it by 
a moderate heat, before sifting. Beat white and yolks of eggs sepa- 
rately in a china bowl, the whites until they can be cut like butter, 
and the yolks till they cease to froth and begin to thicken like cus- 
tard. Not a drop of yolk must mix with white or it will prevent its 
working stiff and dry. Never beat in tin, always in china ware, and 
in a cool room. If weather is hot, set dish on ice or cool eggs in 
cold water. If whites do not readily stiffen, or incline to curdle, add 
a pinch of salt and sugar for each egg used. Both yolks and whites 
must be used promptly after beating, as they fall and lose their 
frothiness, by standing. Eggs must be fresh. The size called for 
by recipes is two ounces each. If less, more in number must be 
used. The eggs of Plymouth Rocks, Brahmas and other pure-bred 
fowls, with rough, chalky shells and a pinkish or pale brown hue, 
are richer and have yolks of a light orange color. If a yolk is found 
to have a pale, greenish tint, it is unfit for use. To test the quality 
before breaking, hold in closed hand to the light, and look through 
it endwise at the sun or a bright light. If yolk can be seen round 



CAKE-MAKING. 55 



and unbroken, the egg is sound and fresh. Another test is to lay it 
in water ; if the egg floats, it is not good. Rinse bowl used in beat- 
ing yolks with a part of the milk, and remember this in all cases, 
when yolks and milk are used. 

The flavor of cream and milk is another important point. This 
depends on the food of the cow and cleanliness in milking and 
iiandling. Certain foods, turnips and onions, for instance, always 
impart unpleasant flavors. Taste cream or milk before using. 

The sugar must also be pure, and much of it is now adulterated. 
To test, dissolve a teaspoonful in a glass of water ; if water becomes 
rnilky or cloudy, the sugar is impure. A bluish tint in sugar indi- 
cates adulteration. Use pulverized sugar for all delicate cakes ; for 
rich cakes, best quality granulated, and best brown sugar for dark 
cakes. Fine granulated and coflee A are best and most economical. 
Butter, when worked with sugar should be gently warmed. Sift the 
finely pulverized sugar into a china bowl, cut the warm butter into 
it in small pieces, beat with large silver spoon or wooden paddle, 
until it is smooth as cream and very light. This is called "creawiin^" 
the butter and sugar. If very salt, butter should be freshened a lit- 
tle before using. When all ingredients are mixed, beat vigorously 
for a long time, so that it may go into oven as light as possible. 
This applies only, of course, to cakes made without yeast. 

To test salt, dissolve a tablespoonful in a glass of water ; the 
impurities, if any, will fall to the bottom. 

Test baking powder in the same way. If pure, there will be no 
sediment. 

It is best to buy aniseed, allspice, caraway, cardamon, cloves, 
coriander, ginger, nutmeg and mace, in their natural state, as those 
put up are usually adulterated with worthless and often injurious 
substances. Round nutmegs are better than oblong. They should 
show oil if pricked with a pin. Grind all spices in a coffee mill and 
sift through a fine sieve before using. 

Large walnuts and hickory nuts are best, provided shells are 
bright and thin. 

The best orange marmalade comes from Florida and must be 
free from crystals and a burnt taste. 

Rose and orange waters are kept hy ^ill druggists^ but recipes 
are given hereafter. 



56 CAKE-MAKING. 




Swamp huckleberries are best. They are large, rich and fresh, 
mild in flavor, and have few seeds. 

The cake tins should be prepared before the cake. Grease with 
fresh, sweet lard, lining the bottom with paper, using six or eight 
thicknesses if cake is large, greasing the top one well. If oven 
bakes more rapidly at top and sides, use less paper at bottom and 
one or two thicknesses at sides. Cakes that have no shortening in 
their composition, should be baked on clean manilla instead of but- 
tered paper. Sift a part of the measured flour with the baking pow- 
der or soda and cream tartar through hand-sieve 
(which should be among the utensils of every 
ho-usekeeper), and mix thoroughly with the rest 
of the flour. In using new flour for either bread 
or cake-making, it can be " ripened " for use by 
placing the quantity intended for baking in the 
hot sun for a few hours, or before the kitchen fire. 
In using milk, note this : that sour milk makes 
a spongy, light cake ; sweet milk, one that cuts like pound cake ; 
remembering that with sour milk soda alone is used, while with 
sweet milk baking powder or soda and cream tartar are to be added. 
Having made everything ready, add milk slowly in small quantities 
to the creamed butter and sugar, next yolk of egg, then part of flour, 
then a part of the whites and so on until all the material is used, 
adding flavoring last. Some first stir milk and flavoring into 
creamed butter and sugar, then yolks, whites and flour, first mix- 
ing with two-thirds of the latter the baking powder, and adding the 
remainder to stiffen the dough. Success depends largely on beat- 
ing a cake. The batter should be brought up from bottom at every 
stroke, forcing air into dough instead of out of it. A wooden paddle 
is best to beat cake, an iron spoon should never be used. Imperfect 
mixing, too rapid baking, or unsteady heat, will cause streaks in 
cake. It is safest to bake a small cake first ; if the little cake is hard 
add a little milk; if it falls in the middle and is crumbly, add more 
flour. Powdered sugar may be sifted over any cake while warm, 
from a spice-box with perforated top. Grate only the yellow part of 
orange or lemon peel, the white portion is bitter. Soda and cream 
tartar and baking powder may be used interchangeably in recipes by 
using a quantity of the latter equal to both the former. In recipes 
milk always means sweet milk, and the cup is a tea-cup or two gills. 



CAKE-MAKINC4. 57 




Sour milk may be used instead of sweet by adding one level tea- 
spoon soda to each pint. For one quart of flour use two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder or one each of soda and cream-tartar. 

To blanch almonds, drop into boiling water, boil a few minutes, 
then drop into cold water. Slip off skins and dry in open air. If 
dried in oven the oil disappears. Prepare a day before using in 
cake. To keep fruit, wedding and black cakes, wrap in waxed pa- 
per; or better, in tin-foil ; or wrap in a towel wet in alcohol ; re-wet 
once a week, and keep in a cool place. 

In making chocolate loaf cake, it is more economical to make white 
sponge or delicate cake at the same time, using yolks for former and 
whites for latter. When cut and heaped together on the same dish, 
the contrast is attractive. To make an economical marble cake, 

any ordinary cake recipe will do, using 
whites of eggs and white sugar with lemon 
flavoring for the light part, and the yolks, 
brown sugar and spices, or grated chocolate 
for the dark, taking for each part half the 
quantity given in the recipe. Layer cake 

FhitfJ Cake Pan. l J n ^ r J 

may be varied in the same way, alternat- 
ing dark and light layers when putting together; or, stir fruit into 
one or two layers. Clarified Butter is much better than either lard 
or butter for greasing cake pans, and is prepared by putting butter 
over the fire in a porcelain bowl or farina boiler until the white 
cheesy grains have formed in it. Then set to one side, skim off all 
that rises to the top, settle and strain and bottle for future use. It 
will keep for years, and should be always at hand, as besides its su- 
periority for the purpose named above, it is especially prized for fry- 
ing oysters, croquettes, fritters, etc. If the butter is stale or rancid, 
after skimming it put in one or more slices of toasted bread, which 
will absorb the offensive taste or odor in a few minutes. Fruit cake 
may be made without brandy or wine, by using a gill of double 
cream or cup of molasses instead of wine glass of liquor and the dif- 
ference in the cake is not apparent. Never wash raisins, as they ab- 
sorb moisture, and tend to make the cake heavy. Place them in a 
coarse towel and rub as clean as possible and then pick over, careful- 
ly removing all stems and defective fruit. Prepare them before mak- 
ing cake, sprinkle Avith flo-ur and add the last thing before putting 
cake in oven. If added before this, their weight carries them to 



58 CAKE-MAKING. 



the bottom of the cake. To remove seeds, clip with scissors or a sharp 
knife. For light fruit cake, seeding is all that is necessary, and 
when chopped, take care not to make them too fine. Citron should 
be sliced thin and cut in rather small pieces. Wash currants in 
warm water, rub well, pour off water, and repeat until water is clear, 
drain in a sieve. Spread on a cloth and rub dry, pick over care- 
fully, dry in a cool oven or heater, or in the sun out of doors, cov- 
ered with gauze. When fruit is mixed, cream butter and sugar, add 
spice, molasses, cream or liquors, then milk (if any is called for) 
then eggs, well-beaten, adding whites with the flour. Always beat 
whites and yolks separately, add flour (which is often browned for 
black fruit cake) with which baking powder or soda and cream tar- 
tar has been mixed, then flavoring, (lemon and vanilla, equal parts 
are favorites) last fruit dredged with a little flour (some mix the 
fruit with all the flour.) If but little fruit is used drop into dough 
when placed in pan and push just beneath the surface. Fruit cake 
requires quite a stiff batter. 

This handled strainer is made in several sizes and is not only 
a convenience in cake making for 
straining yolks, etc., but is also very 
useful for straining drinks for nursery 
and sick room, yeast, blanc mange, 
gravies, custards, syrups, jellies, and 

-./.,. i> • J. 1 J Handled Strainer, 

for sifting sugar upon fruit, cakes and 

pies, and sifting salt into butter, excluding all lumps. The strainer 
may be placed over a tumbler or bowl, resting on the knob on one 
side and handle on the other. 

For a very large cake, which requires three or four hours to 
bake, fit three papers carefullj'', grease thoroughly, make thick paste 
of equal parts Graham and white flour and water enough to wet 
thoroughly, place one paper in pan, greased side down, pasting 
sides to pan in places to keep it from slipping down, and spread 
paste evenly inside of paper about an eighth of an 
inch thick, press the second paper carefully into 
place inside first and over the paste, greased side up. 
Then put in the third paper and pour on the cake 
batter. Earthen pans are good to bake cakes in as 
they heat slowly and the crust is less likely to burn. To use a pan with- 
out stem, fill a glass bottle with shot and place it in the middle of pan- 





CAKE-MAKING. 59 



A cap of brown paper, fitted nicely over the pan and with the 
corners so pinned up tliat it will not touch cake, should be put 
over all except layer cakes when first placed in oven, and allowed 
to remain fifteen to thirty minutes. Before baking, the stove should 
be cleaned out so that all corners of flues will be free from ashes^ 
and the best of fuel should be ready. Build a moderate fire and 
when ready add fuel so as to have it nicely burning when cake goes 
into oven. Ovens are oftener too hot than too cool at the begin- 
ning, but if there is not heat enough the cake will be ruined. A 
moderate oven is needed for fruit cake and it requires three to four 
hours to bake an ordinary loaf. A cake should rise and begin to 
bake before browning much on the surface. Large cakes require 
about the same heat as bread. Layer cakes must bake quickly and 
the oven must be hot. To prepare oven, fill stove with hardwood, 
let it burn until stove is well heated, turn damper so as to throw 
heat under oven for ten minutes so as to thoroughly warm it before 
cake is put in. Put cake in, close hearth and add wood in small 
quantities to keep up heat. More heat is needed at the bottom of 
the oven than at the top, and in some stoves the dampers need fre- 
quent changing, but as ovens differ, one must study the stove and 
learn by observation and experience ho w to j udge and regulate the heat 

^■- Do not open oven door until cake has had time to harden, and 
then open only when necessary and close quickly and gently as 
jarring cake before it has hardened injures it. When necessary to 
open oven door, be sure no draft from open doors or windows can 
strike it. If one side bakes faster than the other turn gently. Test 
thoroughly and be sure that it is done before removing from oven. 
In a quick oven it will require to bake about thirty minutes for each 
inch of thickness in cake. Test by inserting a splint from broom 
or a knitting needle. If it comes out free from dough the cake is 
done. When done set cake, still in pan on an inverted sieve to cool. 
This gives air all around it and cools it evenly. 

The patent pan with perforated cover, illustrated, is highly rec- 
ommended for baking cakes. Cakes in fancy forms 
are baked in molds, the Turk's-Head mold being most 
commonly used. When baking in a brick oven the 
mold is used with a cover, but in a stove oven the pateritPan. 
cover is removed and a stem placed inside, but can be used without 




60 CAKE-MAKING. 



stem. If mold when inverted has not sufficient base (most molds are 
more or less conical) to stand in oven, make a pasteboard box 
which will support it, as heat sufficient to bake any delicate or fruit 
cake will not burn the pasteboard. Many persons frost the bottom 
of cake instead of the top, as it presents a smooth surface. 

Sponge cake must be quickly made and quickly baked. The 
yolks of eggs, the whites of which have been used for white cakes, 
may be kept for several days by beating thoroughly and setting in 
a cool place. In cutting a warm cake use a warm knife. 

To prepare cocoanut for cake ; cut a hole through meat in one 
end, let out milk, pound on all sides to loosen meat, crack, remove 
meat, place pieces in a cool oven or in heat- 
er to dry and then grate. Any part not used' 
after grating may be sprinkled with sugar cakePaddie. 

and spread out to dry in a cool place, and it will keep for some 
time. If dessicated, moisten with milk before using. 

For sifting,use sieves made of fine annealed wire coated with tin as 
they are more durable. The three grades most used are No. 40 for 
flour, 50 for sugar, and 60 for finely powdered sugar used in icing. 

Brushes are of three grades : one an inch in diameter, like a 
painter's brush, for greasing pans and molds ; one flat brush of fine 
hairs one and a half inches wide, for toiD-dressing cakes with glaz- 
ing ; and one a half inch wider for top-dressing with water. 

In baking cakes the ordinary cake pans are generally used, but 
when they can be aff'orded molds are handsomer. The round mold 

for angel cake is of the shape called 
.Turk's Head, hut not scalloped; it 



Cake Spoon. must bc smooth all around, and the 

tube in the centre must be at least one inch higher than the rim of 
the mold. The best size for this use is nine and a half inches across 
the bottom, 12 inches across the top and five inches deep. Another 
is the scalloped or fluted Turk's Head, of the same size and shape 
as the above, for loaf, pound, sponge, Sunshine, and many other 
cakes intended to be served in slices. Two or three ordinary bread 
pans, both round and square, with sloping sides, and as many with 
straight sides for wedding and fruit cakes will be wanted, with at 
least four round jelly-cake pans, for baking thin layers of cake. 
Two or three dozens of small patty pans, round and scalloped, for 
tea cakes, plunkets, ginger cakes and the like are necessary, and 



CAKE-MAKING. 61 




lastly two sheets of heavy Russia iron, a little smaller in size than 

oven for the baking of macaroons, lady fingers, jumbles, and many 

other of the thinner sort of cakes. In case recipes 

call for weights when it is desired to use 

measures, reference should be made to the table of 

weights and measures, where the equivalent of 

each is given. Any icing may be used, but Du- Measures. 

plex, French and Cape May are recommended. For definition 

of the term cream, double-cream, etc., see preface to Creams and 

Custards. To cut warm cake take a broad, thin and verij sharp knife, 

using a sawing motion, to avoid crushing it. 

In order to clean a coffee mill after using it for spices, run 
through it some of the sugar to be used in cake. Graters for nut- 
meg should be fine ; for lemon and orange peel, medium : and for 
cocoanut, coarse. 



Lemon Juice. — Grate rind from lemon, cut in two and press 
through squeezer, to juice add grated rind and let stand fifty minutes ; 
rub with back of spoon and press through strainer. Prepare Orange 
Juice in same way, using an orange instead of a lemon. 

Rose- Water.— Add two drops Kissanlik Otto of Rose and half salt 
spoon of Carbonate of Magnesia Soda, pint of pure filtered soft water 
and pass through filter paper. For Orange Water use tvfo drops of Oil 
of Neroly Bigarade instead of Rose. 

Vanilla Sugar. — Pound in a mortar pint and a third best pulver- 
ized sugar and an ounce of finely cut Mexican Vanilla bean to a fine 
powder, sift, pound what is left in sieve and sift again, repeat till all is 
sifted ; bottle and cork. 

Alpha Cake. — Cream together a cup of butter and two and a 
half cups sugar; add one cup sweet milk, yolks of five eggs, half 
cake of Bakers Chocolate, melted by placing in a dish over boiling 
water, two teaspoons baking powder sifted with two heaping cups 
flour, the beaten whites of the eggs and flavor with vanilla ; bake in 
layers and put together with icing. Some add a pinch of cinnamon. 

Almond Cake. — Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces 
sweet and one ounce bitter almonds, shelled. To one pint pulver- 
ized sugar gradually add yolks of twenty-four eggs and stir until 
light, then add the almond pulp, the juice and grated rind one lem- 
on, a pinch mace, and beat until it thickens. Beat whites six eggs 
to a firm froth, adding by pinches a tablespoon pulverized sugar and 
stir it in, one-third at a time with the above mixture. Lastly add 



62 CAKE MAKING. 




four ounces flour well sifted with one ounce corn starch. Mix well, 
pour into round pans two inches thick, if it is to be iced, or into 
square pans one inch thick if intended for slicing, bake in moderate 
oven and turn out at once. 

Angel Cake. — Whites twelve eggs, one and one-half tumblers 
sifted powdered sugar, one tumbler sifted flour, one teaspoon each 
vanilla and cream tartar. The tumblers for meas- 
uring should hold two and one-fourth gills. Beat 
eggs in a bowl to as fine a froth as possible and add 
one-half tumbler sifted sugar, gradually beating in ^ _ 

two tablespoons at a time, and stir into this mix- '^[^^^fc^kTr^ 
ture the teaspoon vanilla ; sift the cream tartar with the flour, then 
sift flour and remaining tumbler sugar together four times, and put 
with the first mixture with as little stirring as will mix and combine 
them thoroughly and smoothly. The dough should be very light 
and feathery. Test the oven by laying in it a piece of white paper, 
which should brown, not char, in ten minutes. A pan made express- 
ly for this purpose should be used, and can be ordered of any tinner. 
It should be about eight inches in diameter, three inches deep, with 
a funnel in the center two inches in diameter at the bottom tapering 
to an inch and a half at top, and be provided with legs half an incS 
high. May be smooth or fluted edges as preferred. Do not grease 
the pan, but line it with clean manilla paper kept for the purpose. 
Bake forty minutes and do not open the oven for the first fifteen. It 
should rise to the top of the pan but may shrink a little. When done 
turn the pan upside down and let stand one hour, when if it does 
not drop out readily the edges may be carefully loosened with a 
knife. Ice the hottom with transparent glaze made as follows : Take 
one and one-half cups sifted powdered sugar, whites two eggs that 
have not been beaten, and as much cold water as eggs ; stir very 
hard with a whisk or egg beater until perfectly smooth ; now add 
three-fourths cup of confectioner's sugar known as " XXX," and 
enough water to bring it to a smooth paste free from lumps, adding 
the sugar a little at a time and stirring constantly. Ice cake smoothly 
with this and set in a real hot oven for a second or two to harden. 
If preferred use boiled icing. Any cake pan may be used, but it 
should be placed on a pie tin while baking. It is well to cover 
with the paper cap, heretofore described, while baking. 

Apple Cake. — Soak two cups dried apples over night, in the 
morning drain and chop fine in chopping bowl ; add one cup mo- 
lasses and let it boil slowly on back of stove three or four hours ; let 
it cool and add one and a half cups brown sugar, one cup butter, half 
cup sour milk, one teaspoon each cloves, allspice and cinnamon, one 
teaspoon soda, three eggs, three and one-half cups flour ; bake in two 
square tins, or one five-quart basin ; if baked in latter, bake slowly 
two hours. Very nice and Avill keep six months. 



CAKE-MAKING. 63 




Angel Cake. — Mix a scant pint flour, one ounce of corn-starch. 
one pint pulverized sugar, one heaping teaspoon cream tartar ; sift 
five times. Whip whites of fifteen eggs, adding by pinches half a 
tablespoon pulverized sugar until stiff and smooth. Stir all lightly 
and smoothly together, using a wire egg whip for 
stirring. Bake in the Turk's Head mould in a mod- 
erate oven about twenty-five minutes ; take out, 
invert mould and let stand on tube to cool. To 
remove, pass sharp knife around it and it will drop AngeicakePan. 

out. Frost with vanilla or almond icing. The yolks of the eggs 
may be used for any cakes, the recipes of which call for yolks. 

Black Cake. — Cream heaping pint pulverized sugar and pint 
butter; add beaten yolks of two eggs, three-quarters pint sour milk, 
half gill sour cream and quart and a half browned flour in small 
quantities, tablespoon rose-water ; teaspoon each cinnamon, allspice 
and cloves, one grated nutmeg, level teaspoon soda dissolved in a 
little water, and lastly half pound each raisins (seeded) and cur- 
rants and quarter pound citron. Bake in a moderate oven. 

Bannocks — Cream one pint butter with one and one-hal f 
pints brown sugar, add six eggs whipped to a ^^^^^^^ 
cream, one teaspoon ginger, one and one-fourth '^^^o^sVr^ 
pounds white Indian meal and same of flour. Bake in small cakes 
in cups or gem pans and leave in them until cold. 

Black Cake. — One pound each butter and sugar, one gill 
double cream, one-half pint brandy, one pound, two ounces flour, 
two pounds zante currants, washed and picked, two pounds raisins, 
seeded and chopped, two pounds sultanas, washed, picked and 
dried, one and one-half pounds citron, cut into long, thin strips, two 
tablespoons cinnamon, two grated nutmegs, one teaspoon mace, 
one tablespoon each powdered cloves, powdered allspice and orange 
flower water. Rub butter and sugar together until smooth; 
whip whites sixteen eggs to stiff froth and stir them into the 
cream, one-third at a time, working until smooth ; mix flour 
with fruits and spices until al are evenly diffused and stir all 
together, adding the orange water last. Beat the whole &fi|^Mk. 
very lively, pour into long, square pans lined with but- i|)|||M^& 
tared paper, smooth over with wet knife blade, and bake ^IlllllSm 
in moderate oven three hours. If too hot at bottom put Bride cake Pan. 
several folds of paper in bottom of pans, or cover with paper if too 
hot at top. Do not turn out until cold. Rub with flour, wipe with 
cloth, ice with white icing and finish with chocolate icing. Will 
keep for a year or more. If to be eaten within a week or two no 
brandy is needed. When properly and carefully made, one of the 
richest and best. 

Bread Cake. — When making wheat bread, and the dough if 
light, and ready for the oven, take out enough for a large loaf, mix 



64 CAKE-MAKIN<5. 

with it a teacupful of powdered sugar, and the same of butter that 
has been mixed smoothly with a teacup warm milk. Add one beat- 
en egg, knead well, put into a square pan, dusted with flour, cover 
and set in warm place to rise. When light bake in a moderate 
oven, and wrap immediately in a thick cloth. It is best when fresh. 
Or for a richer cake, to two pounds of bread dough as above, add 
three ounces each of butter and sugar creamed together, two beaten 
eggs and half gill rosewater. Knead until smooth. Last add half a 
grated lemon rind and two ounces currants ; pour into greased pan 
an inch and a half deep, top dress with roll glaze. Take an ounce 
each of sugar, butter and flour, and a teaspoon of cinnamon, rub to- 
gether with bread crumbs, sprinkle over top, let rise, and when light 
bake in a moderate oven. 

Cake Sponge. — Stir gradually and lightly into a pint of blood- 
warin water enough flour to make a soft smooth batter — about a 
l^int and a half will be needed — and mix well with it three gills of 
fresh yeast. Cover, and set in a warm place to rise over night. It 
should be very light and ready to use next morning. When a 
sponge is used in making Bread, Cakes, etc., this is very nice. 

Carolina Cake. (Without eggs.) — Rub two large tablespoons 
butter into one cofiee-cup powdered sugar, add one-half cup sweet 
cream, one-half teaspoon soda, one and one-half cups flour; bake 
quickly in small tins or gem pans, and send to table warm. 

Charlotte Cachee Cake. — Cut a thick loaf of sponge or other 
plain cake into five or six slices horizontally of uniform width. 
Spread each slice with jolly, using first tart and then sweet jelly, if 
you have botii, fit them together again in the loaf and ice all over 
with the whipped whites of five eggs and enough powdered sugar to 
make a stiff" icing adding the juice of one lemon. Set in slow oven 
for a few minutes to harden. A quick and easy way to prepare a 
fancy cake for tea when company appears unexpectedly. 

Chocolate CaJie. — Cream one pint pulverized sugar with one- 
third pint butter ; to this add four well-beaten eggs, a thick paste of 
nine tablespoons grated chocolate mixed with twelve of boiling 
water ; mix well, then add half pint milk, pint and a half flour and 
three teaspoons baking powder and mix lightly and bake. For a 
Chocolate Layer Cahe., bake in layers and spread with a cream made 
by mixing together a scant gill sugar, one beaten egg, one pinch cin- 
namon, and one tablespoon paste made as above and adding 3'olks 
of one or two eggs and a half tablespoon of corn starch ; when 
smooth stir into half pint of milk and cook in custard kettle. When 
cold stir in the well-beaten whites and spread as directed. A pinch 
of cinnamon may also be added to the batter for either cake. 

Christmas Cake- — Cream one and a half pints butter and two 
pints sugar ; beat into it four eggs previously whipped to a froth, 
and mix into it three pounds of currants, picked, washed and 



CAKE-MA KIXG. 65 



dried, one-fourth pound chopped citron, one grated nutmeg, atable- 
spoon of salt and five teaspoons baking powder. Mix thoroughly 
with the creamed butter, sugar and eggs, beating until smooth, put 
into pans and bake in a moderate oven about tv/o hours. 

Citro7i Cake. — One cup butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four 
eggs, one cup milk, one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, _ and 
pinch salt. After the above has been put in the pan, cut the citron 
thin and put into the cake endways, pushing down until the batter 
covers it. This will prevent the citron falling to the bottom. 

Cocoanut CaJce. — Cream one and one third pints sugar and half 
pint butter, and beat into the cream four eggs previously whipped 
to a light cream. Soak two pints grated and dried cocoanut in 
pint milk until soft, add three teaspoons baking powder, and stir 
into above, beating thoroughly for some time. Now work in two 
quarts flour and bake in a quick oven in Turk's Head molds. 
Make an icing by beating together four whites of egg, three-fourths 
pint sugar, and two teaspoons extract of lemon and put on cake 
while warm, sprinkling Avitli grated cocoanut while cooling. A de- 
licious cake. The grated rind of one lemon may be added with co- 
coanut. This makes two large cakes. 

Coifee Cake. — Cream one-half pint butter and a half pint of 
sugar, warm a half pint of molasses and beat all together with one 
teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, mace and ginger, and one-half 
teaspoon each ground cloves and allspice, until very light. Then 
add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and half a pint of strong 
coffee, made the same as for the table, mixing all thoroughly. Beat 
in alternately the well beaten whites of the eggs and two and a half 
pints of flour, a part of eggs and flour at a time. Last add three 
teaspoons baking powder, one pound of raisins, stoned and cut in 
half, one half pound of currants, picked, washed and dried, and one- 
fourth pound chopped citron, having first dredged the fruit in apart 
of the flour. Mix the whole mass with the hand, beat briskly a few 
minutes and bake in a sIoav oven about an hour. Keep well cov- 
ered after removing from oven and eat while fresh. 

Composition Cake. — Having creamed one and two-thirds pints 
of sugar and one-half pound of butter, take one pint of milk and one- 
half pound of flour, and add one-third of each at a time, stirring 
well together. Stir in four well beaten eggs in the same manner 
with one and one-fourth pints more flour (saving a little with which 
to mix baking powder.) Beat thoroughly, dredge three-fourths 
pound raisins, seeded and chopped and three-fourths pound cur- 
rants, picked, washed and dried, with flour, mix well, add one-half at 
a time, with three teaspoons baking powder and one grated nutmeg, 
beating well ; put into pans, smooth top with a w^et knife blade and 
bake in a moderate oven. This is an old fashioned cake which is 
always a favorite. _ 



66 CAKE-MAKING. 



Com Starch Cake. — Cream one and one-third pints of sugar and 
one-half pint of butter ; beat whites and yolks of three eggs sepa- 
rately mix and beat again until thick and work them into creamed 
butter and sugar, stir in a half pint of milk and add a teaspoon 
soda dissolved in a little hot water. Now mix a pint of flour, one- 
third pint of corn starch and two teaspoons cream tartar, sift twice, 
beat ail together with the above, bake and eat the same day. It is 
very nice baked in patty pans and served with ice cream. 

Delicate Cake. — Cream one pint sugar and one-fourth pint but- 
ter, beat into it well beaten whites of six eggs and one gill of milk, 
stirring well. Sift in one pint of flour Avhich has previously been 
well mixed with one-fourth pound of corn starch and two teaspoons 
baking powder. Stir quickly till smooth and bake in steady oven. 

Delicate Cake. — Cream one-half pound butter with one pound 
powdered sugar, add whites sixteen eggs beaten stiff, half a nutmeg 
grated, and one teaspoon rose-water. Stir well together and add 
gradually one pound sifted flour. Bake at once in moderate oven. 

Egrless Cake. — One cup sugar, half cup butter, half cup sweet 
milk, two cups flour, one teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. 

Everlasting Cake. — Cream two-thirds pint pulverized sugar, 
half pint butter ; add well beaten yolks of three eggs, gill milk, 
tablespoon rose water and one and a quarter quarts flour. Some 
add two teaspoons baking pow' er. 

Favorite Cake. — Beat well together for one hour a half pint each 
of ground rice and flour, twelve eggs, a pint sugar and an ounce 
caraway seed. This is an old and favorite recipe and makes a very 
light cake easily digested. 

Feather Cake. — One cup white sugar, one teaspoon melted but- 
ter, one e^g, two-thirds cup milk, two cups sifted flour, two tea- 
spoons cream tartar and one of soda sifted in flour. Flavor with 
lemon. Delicious and cheap. 

Fig Cake. — Two cups sugar, one small cup butter, one cup sweet 
milk, three and one-half cups flour, whites eight eggs beaten etilf, 
two teaspoons baking powder, one pound figs, split ; put in a layer 
of batter and then one of figs, and so on until all is used. 

Huckleberry Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, three 
cups flour, five eggs, one cup sweet milk, one teaspoon soda, dissolv- 
ed :'i hot water, one tpaspoon each of nutmeg and cinnamon, one 
quc.rt berries, dredged well with flour. Stir them in carefully. Bake 
in luaf. Best day after made. 

Mci'^'bled Fig Cake. — Light part, one cup sugar, one-third cup 
butter, one-third cup sweet milk, four eggs, whites only, one and 
one-half teaspoons baking powder, one and one-half cups flour. 
Dark part: one-half cup brown sugar, one-third cup butter, one 



CAKE MAKING. &} 



third cup milk, one teaspoon baking powder, one cup flour, four 
egg yolks and one whole egg, one teaspoon allspice, one teaspoon 
cinnamon, one pound figs sliced ; put in a layer of the dark with 
the figs on top, then a layer of the light, in a deep cake pan, and so 
on till all is used. 

Fruit Cake. — Cream together one and one-third pints of sugar 
and three-fourths of a pint of butter ; add yolks of seven eggs beaten 
till thick, one gill of cream, one teaspoon grated nutmeg, a table- 
spoon ground cinnamon, and the whites of eggs and one quart of 
flour, alternating whites with flour, one-half each time, beating 
steadily until thoroughly mixed. Dredge with flour one-half jDound 
of raisins, seeded and halved, one-half pound of currants, picked, 
washed and dried, and one-fourth pound chopped citron. Stir 
lightly into batter, and bake in moderate oven. Ice or serve plain 

German Fruit Cake. — Sift one pound flour into pan in a heap 
and make hole in the top ; in this put half teaspoon salt, one tea- 
spoon cinnamon, twelve ounces butter, and two ounces pulverized 
sugar. Mix and add yolks of eight eggs and a little cold water, 
leaving it a stiff" dough ; wrap it in a clean cloth, and set in a cool 
place for an hour. In the summer it ought to be put on ice. This 
can be used for a variety of layer cakes. Roll out some of the dough 
about a quarter of an inch thick, cut it round and put it on piece 
white paper cut to fit ; cut a strip of dough an inch wide, and stand 
it up around the edge, and take a strip of white paper and paste it 
around the cake and to the paper under it so as to keep it in shape. 
Into this dish of dough pat enough apricot marmalade to cover the 
bottom, over this put a layer of dough, cut in little biscuits, then a 
layer of preserved cherries, then another layer of little biscuits. 
Chop two ounces beef's marrow fi.ne, and cover over the top, put it 
on a tin carefully and set in a slow oven. While this is baking mix 
yolks of six eggs, four ounces sugar, one-half quart thick cream, 
and a cup cherry juice, and put over cake when half baked. When 
it is well settled put back in the oven again and let remain till done. 
Turn on large plate and serve while warm. 

Hub Fruit Cake. — Cream a half pound each butter and sugar, 
add a half teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg, next add one 
gill double cream, two ounces flour. Mix till smooth, add four 
eggs beaten together, four ounces of flour, half pound each currants 
and raisins (the latter seeded and chopped) a quarter pound 
sliced citron, and two ounces chopped candied orange peel. Pour 
into prepared pan or mold and bake in a moderate oven. 

Pepper Fruit Cake. — Yolks seven egg?, two cups brown sugar, 
one cup each molasses, butter and sour cream, one teaspoon each 
soda and pepper, one teaspoon each cinnamon, allspice and cloves, 
one quart flour, one pound raisins, half pound currants, fourth 
pound citron, wine glass brandy. See directions for preparing 
fruit in cake preface. 



68 CAKE MAKING. 



Pound Fruit Cake. — One pound each flour, brown sugar, citron, 
raisins, currants, candied fruits (figs and dates) mixed nuts, 
(shelled), butter, twelve eggs, one teaspoon each ground cloves and 
cinnamon, one pint best brandy, one cup molasses. Brown the 
flour, chop nuts slightly and add whites of eggs, beaten separately, 
last. Bake four to five hours in a slow oven. 

Hickory Nut Cake. — Cream one pint pulverized sugar and gill 
butter ; add beaten yolks three eggs, half pint milk, pint flour, well 
beaten whites, two teaspoons baking powder sifted with half pint flour 
and then half pint finely cut kernels. Walnuts or any nuts may be 
used. 

Cream Loaf Cake — Cream a half pint of butter and a pint of 
sugar, stir into "it the well-beaten whites of eight eggs, then the well 
beaten yolks, one-half pint double cream, three pints of flour, one- 
half a grated nutmeg, one-half a^ teaspoon each of powdered mace 
and cinnamon, and a tablespoon of rose-water, beat thoroughly, 
bringing dough up from bottom at every stroke, until light and 
smooth. Dredge with flour, a half pound of seeded and halved rais- 
ins, a fourth pound each of picked, washed and dried sultanas and 
zante currants. Mix the dredged fruit well with one-half a pint of 
double cream, stir it well and place at once in pans lined with but- 
tered paper, and bake in a quick oven. 

Neio England' Loaf Cake. — The materials for this famous cake 
may all be collected the day before. Stone two pounds raisins and 
pick, wash and dry two pounds currants and one-half pound of 
sliced citron, dredge with flour and stir until completely coated. 
In the morning cut into bits one pint of butter, and rub into it 
three quarts of flour and one and a third pints sugar. Wet mixture 
with a pint of milk, add three well beaten eggs and half a pint of 
fresh soft yeast. Stir and mix thoroughly and set to rise until 
evening. When risen add pint more of butter, one and one-third of 
sugar, three well-beaten eggs, mix well and set to rise again over 
night. In the morning add gradually the fruit with four grated 
nutmegs and one-fourth ounce powdered mace, stir and mix all 
well and set for the third time to rise for two to three hours. 
When light, butter a large dripping pan, pour in batter and place in a 
very hot oven which must be allowed to gradually cool so as to bake 
three or four hours. This cake will keep three or four days if well 
covered. It is a very rich and delicious cake and repays well 
the care, labor and skill required in making it. 

Orange Loaf Cake. — Grate rinds of two oranges, then press 
out juice with lemon squeezer and mix with rind, let stand three 
quarters of an hour, rub with back of spoon and strain; add two- 
■ttiirda pint pulverized sugar and beat well. With this, cream half 
pint butter and add loell heaten yolks of five eggs, alternately with 
a scant pint of flour, a little of each at a time j beat till very^ very 



CAKE MAKING. 69 



light, then add well frothed whites, pour in a pan or mold and bake 
in a quick oven, covering with paper first fifteen minutes. When 
done ice with orange icing. This cake is at its prime the day it is 
baked. Use lemons instead of oranges for a delicious Lemon 
Cake. 

Marble Cake. — Dark part: Yolks three eggs, one-half cup 
butter, one cup brown sugai*, one tablespoon molasses, one-half 
cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda, one and one-third cups 
flour, spices to taste and one cup raisins and currants, or leave out 
spices and fruit and use three tablespoons grated chocolate. Light 
part : whites three eggs, one-half cup corn etarch, one cup white 
sugar, one-half cup each sweet milk and butter, one cup flour, one 
teaspoon baking powder. Alternate the light and dark parts by 
spoonfuls or layers, or both, in tin before baking. 

Moonlight Cake. — Cream half pint soft butter with two-thirds 
pint sugar; add gill milk and gently stir in well-beaten whites of 
nine eggs ; mix thoroughly heaping pint flour, one-third pint corn 
starch and two teaspoons baking powder and sift twice ; add to 
above, and when well mixed add two teaspoons vanilla sugar and 
half teaspoon extract of almond. The vanilla sugar may be 
omitted using double quantity extract. 

Peanut Cake. — One-half cup butter, one and one-half cups milk, 
two and one-half cups flour, whites four eggs, one half teaspoon 
cream tartar, one-quarter teaspoon soda; just before putting into 
oven sprikle over top one cup peanuts broken into pieces. 

Plum Cake. — Cut one pound butter in small pieces and work in- 
to two and one-half pounds flour with half a 
nutmeg, grated, and two pounds currants, picked 

_ and washed. Add one pound sugar and six yolks 

"~Fruit c'ai.e'.'"''''"'^ cggs rubbcd together, one-half pint each yeast 
and cream and work to a smooth batter. Pound one half pound 
shelled and blanched almonds with a little rose water to a paste and 
add with one-fourth pound citron. 

Poor Mail's Cake. — Three cups bread dough, two cups sugar, 
one of butter, two eggs, mix well, put in spice to taste, and fruit if 
preferred. Let rise and bake in brisk oven. Do not use any flour. 

Pound Cake. — Pound each butter, sugar and flour, ten eggs beat- 
en separately, and juice and grated rind of one lemon prepared as 
in Lemon Sponge Cake, For Measured Pound Cake take pipt butter, 
one and one-third pint pulverized sugar and quart flour mixed with 
other ingredients as above, 

Cocoanut Pound Cake. — Cream together one and one-third pints 
of sugar and one pint of butter, add one tablespoon orange-flower 
water andthiee of rose-water ; beat in one-fourth pound of flour and 
work to a smooth paste. Add gradually the whites of nine eggs 
beaten to a stiflf froth, and one pint flour, (one half at a time), stir- 




70 CAKE MAKING. 



ing constantly, then a pound grated cocoanut and one grated nut- 
meg. Work all well until smooth, line cake pans with buttered pa- 
per, pour in the batter, smooth with a knife dipped in cold water, 
and bake in a moderate oven. The juice or grated rind of a lemon 
may be added with the cocoanut. Ice while warm with same icing 
as given in recipe for Cocoanut Cake, flavored with almond instead 
of lemon. 

Rice-Flour Cakes.— Beat together ioT ten minutes one and one- 
third pints pulverized sugar, one-half pint butter and yolks of four 
eggs; add a tablespoon orange flower water, and the juice and grated 
rind of one lemon, one pint each of flour and rice flour sifted to- 
gether, and four whites of eggs well beaten, the flour and whites to 
be added alternately, one-third at a time. Beat well for half an 
hour, bake in patty pans and serve while fresh. 

Snow Cake. — Beat one-half pound butter to a cream; stir 
in one-half pound granulated sugar and one pound arrowroot flour 
gradually, beating steadily ; add whipped whites six eggs and beat 
well twenty minutes ; flavor to taste with essence almond, vanilla 
or lemon. Bake in a moderate oven one to one and one-half hours. 

Spice Cake. (Without Eggs.) — One heaping cup sugar, one-half 
cup butter, one and one-half cups sour milk, one teasjjoon each cin- 
namon, cloves and nutmeg, one cup fruit, one teaspoon soda ; stir in 
flour until it will just drop from the spoon. 

Sjnce Cake. — Three eggs, one cup butter, one cup brown sugar, 
four cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one cup each molas- 
ses and milk, one teaspoon each extract nutmeg, cinnamon and 
ground cloves. 

Sponge Cake. — Beat to a cream four eggs and a large coffee-cup 
white sugar. Sift two teaspoons baking powder with two cups flour, 
stir this in carefully with sugar and eggs, then add two-thirds cup 
boiling water. Flavor to taste. Beat lightly together and bake in 
four-quart pan. The hot water makes it deliciously tender. 

Almond Sponge Cake. — Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds and 
a half ounce bitter almonds, and grind to a paste in a mortar with 
two tablespoons of rose-water. To two-thirds of a pint of pulver- 
ized sugar, add yolks of three eggs, stir to a cream, add gradually 
the yolks of three more eggs, beat all until thick and smooth and 
add almond paste. Beat the whites of six eggs, adding gradually a 
half-tablespoon of pulverized sugar. Now add whites of the eggs, 
one-half at first, stirring gently before adding the other half, lastly 
add a scant pint flour and beat until very light. Bake in a moder- 
ate oven. For a plain Sponge Cake, omit the almonds and use only 
one tablespoon rose-water. Some beat yolks eighteen minutes then 
add part ofthe sugar and the tablespoon rose-water making a smooth 
thick batter. Have a second person beating the whites, when par- 
tially frothed, add the rest of sugar and beat till very stiff; add al- 



CAKE MAKING. 71 



ternately to the yolk batter, the whites and flour, a little of each at a 
time, and stir very gently, simply mixing them. Bake in a moder- 
ate oven, sprinkling first with sugar if wished. For Lemon Sponge 
Cake use grated rind and juice of one large or two small lemons, 
mixing them and letting stand threc-quartersof an hour, then strain- 
ing, and mixing with the sugar before adding to yolks. For Orange 
Sponge Cake, take oranges instead of lemons, and for Vanilla Sponge 
Cake, take two teaspoons Vanilla Sugar. 

Cocoanut Sponge Cake. — Beat and strain the yolks of six eggs 
and rub with a pint of sugar to a cream, add one cocoanut grated, a 
saltspoon of salt the juice of half a lemon, whip the whites of the 
eggs with a little powdered sugar to a froth, stir into above mixture, 
beat in lightly a pint of flour, stiring only enough to mix well, and 
bake, putting a paper cover or a piece of paper over the pan for the 
first twenty minutes. 

Philadelphia Sponge Cake. — Weigh ingredients and prepare bak- 
ing pans, then pour one gill boiling water on three-quarters pound 
sugar in a bowl ; stir it, cover and let stand on table until yolks of 
six eggs are beaten, add the grated rind of half a lemon to the eggs ; 
froth whites and pour yolks on them, beat thoroughly together, then 
add the syrup ( sugar and water) and beat ten minutes, or till thick, 
sift in half pound flour, mixing very gently with a knife, add juice 
of half a lemon, pour in pans and bake from twenty to thirty min- 
utes. The syrup is sometimes left on the range, and when boiling is 
poured into the eggs which are then beaten until cold. The eggs 
thicken more quickly in this way, and the cake is excellent, but per- 
haps not quite as moist as that made with cold syrup. This cake 
has the advantage of keeping longer than ordinary sponge cake. 

Wiite Sponge Cake. — Sift together one cup of powdered sugar, 
one-half cup each flour and corn-starch, one teaspoon baking pow- 
der. Have ready the whites of eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth and 
one tablespoon rose extract, mix thoroughly and bake in square tins 
about two inches deep in quick oven. Serve cut in small squares. 

Sunshine Cake. — Cream scant pint pulverized sugar, scant 
half pint butter, add well beaten yolks of eight eggs, a little at a time, 
gill each milk and cream, juice and grated rind of one lemon pre- 
pared as directed, pint and a half flour, half pint rice flour, three 
teaspoons baking powder (well mixed) and beat very thoroughly. 

Velvet Cake. — Cream one and one-third pints pulverized 
sugar and half pint butter, add well beaten yolks of six eggs, one 
gill double cream, a paste made by blanching and pounding fine 
half gill shelled bitter almonds, and gradually one quart flour and 
two teaspoons baking powder. Bake in a moderate oven. 

'Washingto7i Cake, — Cream joint pulverized sugar and three- 
quarters pint butter, add well beaten yolks of ten eggs half pint 
double cream, tablespoon rose water, juice and grated rind of lemon, 



72 CAKE MAKING. 



White Cake — Cream one and a third pints sugar and half pint 
butter, add half pint milk and well frothed whites of eight eggs, 
quart flour mixed with one-third pint corn starch and three tea- 
spoons baking powder, and last the juice and grated rind of two 
email lemons. Bake in a quick oven. For a White Fruit Cake, 
omit corn starch and add to above half pound each raisins, figs, 
dates and blanched almonds, chopped and flavored and half pound 
finely-sliced citron. Either of the above make delicious layer cakes, 
putting together with French icing. 

Yellow Cake. — Cream pint pulverized sugar and gill butter, 
add well beaten yolks of eight eggs, half nutmeg, grated, half pint 
sour cream with level teaspoon soda dissolved in it, and three- 
quarters of a quart flour with teaspoon of cream tartar sifted with 
it. This is the old-time Gold Cake, and using whites of eggs in- 
stead of yolks and half teaspoon each of lemon and almond ex- 
tract in place of nutmeg makes a Silver Cake. 

Yule Cake. — Cream two and one-half cups butter and three cups 
sugar ; add ten beaten eggs, four cups flour with t^vo teaspoons bak- 
ing powder, four cups currants, two-thirds cup chopped citron, one 
teaspoon grated nutmeg, and quarter teaspoon powdered cloves. 
Bake in a well-greased, paper-lined tin, in a moderate oven two and 
one-half hours ; or bake in patty pans and frost with chocolate icing. 

Zephyr Cake. — Wash the salt out of nearly a quarter pound but- 
ter ; add a quarter pound powdered sugar and three well-beaten eggs 
a teaspoon rose water, and sifted flour enough to make a thin batter ; 
stir with a wooden spoon till batter is perfectly smooth and so light 
that it will break when it falls against the side of the mixing crock; 
fill well-buttered patty pans nearly half full with batter, and bake, 

Duplex Charlotte. — Cream two-thirds of a pint sugar,and gill but' 
ter, add four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, half pint double 
cream, pint flour, teaspoon baking powder and two-thirds pint ar- 
row-root sifted together and bake in jelly pans. Mix heaping table- 
spoon corn-starch smooth in a little cold milk and stir it gradually 
into pint cream or rich milk in custard kettle ; add well-beaten yolka 
of six eggs and when thickened, pour into three separate pans. To 
one add six tablespoons grated chocolate, half pound macaroons, 
tablespoon each pulverized and vanilla sugar and cook fifteen min- 
utes, take off fire, beat a few moments and let cool. To the second 
pan add Almond paste as above, quarter pound finely-chopped cit- 
ron, three tablespoons sugar and teaspoon almond extract. Cook 
as the chocolate, and to the third pan add third of a pound glaced 
fruit, apricots or any kind wished, finely chopped, and cook same. 
Take four w^hites of eggs and make a white cake by taking half in- 
gredients used in first layers baked. Then build with alternate 
laj^ers of cake and different custard on each layer icing top layer and 
sides with an icing, either plain or boiled, made of remaining whites. 



LAYER CAKES. 73 



Zufolos. — Sift together tea-cup powdered sugar, rounded cofFee- 
«up flour and teaspoon cream tartar, add to the well-frothed whites 
of eight eggs and stir without beating till well mixed. Fill mer- 
ingue bag and press out in finger shapes or in drops, or bake in lady- 
iinger pan as described or in patty pans. The white fingers are 
nice for charlotte-russe ; or make a batter of three eggs, one and a 
half cups sugar, two of flour, half cup water, teaspoon cream tartar 
and half of soda, bake in fancy-shaped patty pans and ice with 
chocolate icing, either plain, boiled or caramel ; or cut any kind of 
plain cake into small squares, cut small piece from center of each 
square, and fill cavity with some kind of marmalade or jelly, re- 
place part that was removed, and cover with icing. The small sponge 
cakes may be iced with white icing and when cold ^'marked in gold" 
by dipping a very small bristle brush in the yolk of an egg and 
writing a word or name upon them. 

Layer Cakes. 

In making layer cake batter follow directions given in cake pref- 
ace, always remembering to sift the flour before measuring. In bak- 
ing it is important to thoroughly grease the tins — to make 
it emphatic we will say, thoroughly grease with lard or 
American cooking oil, and then grease again (it is not al- 
ways necessary to line tins for layer cakes with paper) — 
and after using rub off with a coarse towel, taking care Quart Measure, 
that they are perfectly free from all particles of cake, grease and fill 
again, thus obviating the necessity of washing every time they are 
filled. A much hotter fire is required for layer than for loaf cakes ; 
a good test for the oven is to put in a piece of white paper, which 
should be browned in one minute, when the oven is ready for the 
cake. If jelly is used to spread between the layers it is a good plan 
to beat it smoothly and spread it before the cakes are quite cool. In 
"building," an inverted jelly tin furnishes a perfectly 
level surface on which to lay and spread the cake, and 
Jelly Cake Tia. it may bo allowed to remain on it until perfectly cold 
when it should be set away in a cake box in a cool place. In put- 
ting the layers together many place them bottom side up, because of 
the smoother surface afforded. In cutting it is better to first make 
a round hole in the center with a knife or tin tube about an inch and 
a quarter in diameter, which prevents the edge of the cake from 
crumbling when cut. In making the custard or "filling" for layer 
cake, place in a custard kettle or tin pail and set in boiling water to 
cook, thus avoiding all danger of burning. 




74 LAYER CAKES. 



To blanch almonds, pour boiling water over them, let boil a 
moment, drain, throw them into cold water, slip off the skin and 
pound. To prejoare cocoanut, see cake preface. When dessicated 
Bocoanut is used for filling, moisten with a little milk. 

Layer cakes are better eaten the day they are baked. 

The filling given in the following recipes for any cake may be 
used for others, according to taste. Almost any filling given being 
appropriate for any other cake, the reciiDe for which is given. 

The fillings given are to be used only between the layers, with 
icing on the top except in cases where directed otherwise in the recipe. 

For a Jelly Filling, beat whites of two eggs with pound pulver- 
ized sugar and half pint currant jelly, or latter can also be added to 
a custard filling. 

Whenever chocolate is used in either filling or batter, a pinch 
of pulverized cinnamon adds to the flavor, and with strawberries a 
few drops of Orange Water or Juice, is a decided improvement. 

The relative value of weights and measures will be found in the 
Tables of Weights and Measures. 

If Vanilla Sugar is not at hand, add a few drops of vanilla flav- 
oring to the sugar used in the recipe, as a substitute. 



Apple Cake. — Make a batter as for Mystic Orange Cake, and for 
filling make an Apple Puree by boiling two apples, quartered but not 
pared, in a little water to a thick pulp ; strain through a fine hair 
sieve and again boil till, when tested, it will not spread when 
dropped on a dish ; sweeten and boil a few minutes longer, put in a 
buttered dish, when cool sprinkle with pulverized sugar. Grate a 
whole orange or two, rub to a paste with pulverized sugar, add to 
above and thin with more orange juice to the thickness of any filling 
and spread as directed in preface. A Peach Puree is prepared in 
same way using peaches instead of apples. Any fruit may be used, 
the berries needing only a very little water. For German Apple 
Cake, pare twenty-four good apples and cut each into six equal 
pieces. Take some dough made as for German fruit cake and roll 
out enough for two layers, cut round, turn up some for margin, 
place on white paper and paste band of paper around to keep in 
shape. Put the apples on dough in rows, set in quick oven and 
bake till brown. While hot sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. 

Banana Cake. — Six eggs, one cup butter, two cups each sugar, 
flour and corn starch, one cup sweet milk, three teaspoons baking 
powder. Bake in layers, and while warm place sliced bananas be- 
tween. Ice and eat while fresh. Enough for two cakes. 

Caramel Cake — .Cream one pint sugar and scant half pint but 



LAYER CAKE. 75 



ter, add grated rind one large lemon, yolks of five eggs, part at a 
time, half pint milk and half gill rose water and'pint flour, gill corn 
starch and two teaspoons baking powder, sifted together. When 
well mixed add gently the well frothed whites. Bake in jelly pans 
and build as directed in preface spreading with a filling made as 
follows : mix scant gill granulated sugar, one egg, two tablespoons 
caramel and pinch cinnamon; to this add yolk of egg beaten with 
half tablespoon corn starch, work all together until smooth, stir it 
into half pint milk, cook in a custard kettle until thick ; let cool, spread 
on layers as directed in preface, icing top with Chocolate Icing. 

Chocolate Cake. — Cream two-thirds pint sugar and a gill of but- 
ter, stir in the well whipped whites of three eggs and the yolk of 
one ; when light add a heaping pint flour and one teaspoon baking 
powder sifted together ; now add a gill of milk and bake in jelly 
pans. For filling rub a tablespoon and a half grated chocolate with 
a half pint pulverized sugar, and two teaspoons of vanilla sugar; 
add slowly the well whipped whites of tv/o eggs and spread over 
layers. Or use Cape May icing, doubling the recipe of latter ; or 
another filling is two ounces chocolate cooked over hot water with 
one cup water and one ounce sugar. Spread between layers. For 
German Chocolate Cake, mix four ounces each fresh butter and fine 
sugar and yolks of twelve eggs beaten to a froth ; then add eight 
ounces each powdered almonds and grated vanilla chocolate; stir 
well together, then put in two ounces sifted flour and last the well 
whipped whites twelve eggs. Cut two pieces of white paper round, 
leaving a margin to turn up around the edge. Make the cake equally 
thick on both pieces of paper, set in a slow oven and bake. When 
cold put a layer of preserved cherries on one and lay the other cake 
on top of it; trim the edges smooth and ice with chocolate icing 
made by dissolving six ounces sugar in water and adding six ounces 
chocolate ; stir constantly ; let cook till it will follow the spoon 
when taken out or a skin has formed upon it. You can trim the 
cake with white icing in fancy designs and garnish the plate with 
fruit and white icing. 

Cream Cake. — Cream one and one-third pints sugar and a scant 
half pint butter. Add well beaten yolks of six eggs, half pint of 
double cream, a tablespoon vanilla sugar, and a pint and a hall 
flour, a third pint corn starch and three teaspoons baking powder 
sifted well together, beat until smooth, bake in jelly cake pans, and 
spread with filling made as follows : stir into one-half pint of boiling 
milk, two teaspoons of corn starch mixed until smooth in a little 
cold milk ; add one egg beaten to a cream with a third of a pint of 
pulverized sugar. Remove from fire and add a teaspoon each oi 
rose water and vanilla sugar. Or for Economical Oream Cake take 
cup sugar, yolks of two eggs and white of one, one-half cup sweet 
milk, one and one-half cups flour, butter size of an egg. three tea- 
spoons baking powder ; bake in layers. For filling boil half cup 



76 LAYER CAKE. 



water, three tablespoons powdered sugar, tableppoon corn starch until 
thick, remove from stove, and when partially cool etir in the 
whipped white of one egg; flavor with vanilla and spread between 
layers. For Perfection Cream. Cake sift tumbler of flour three times, 
add two teaspoons baking powder and sift again. Sift the_ sugar 
and measure it taking one and a half tumblers. Beat whites of 
eleven eggs to a stiff froth; add sugar lightly, then flour. Bake in 
two jelly pans ; when cold, whip one pint thick sweet cream, sweet- 
en and flavor with vanilla ; put between the layers and heap upon 
the top. The tumbler for measuring should hold two and one- 
fourths gills. For Strawberry Cream Cake take cup sugar, two eggs 
one-half cup sweet milk, three tablespoons melted butter, one and 
one-half cups flour, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons cream tartar. 
Bake in layers. Cream : Take one-half cup thick sweet cream, 
beat till stiff, add two tablespoons sugar, have one large cup of ber- 
ries well sweetened, add to cream and spread between layers; or, 
use only a sufficient quantity of well sweetened mashed berries. 
For Vienna Cream Cake, take four eggs, one cup each sugar and flour, 
one tablespoon melted butter, three teaspoons baking powder, one 
teaspoon lemon ; bake in jelly tins. Cream : one cup thick sour 
cream, one cup sugar, one cup hickory-nut or walnut meats rolled 
fine ; stir all together and put on stove, boil five minutes, spread be- 
tween the layers ; ice the top ; delicious. 

Fig Cake. — Two cups sugar, one cup each butter and milk, 
three of flour, two teaspoons baking powder sifted with flour, whites 
of eight eggs. Bake in layers. Make an icing of whites of two eggs 
and half pound sugar, and mix with it one pound each figs, blanched 
almonds and filberts choj^ped fine and spread between layers ; or cut 
half pound figs fine and boil until soft with one cup sugar and 
half cup water, and use for filling. The cake may be more eco- 
nomically made by using yolks of five eggs and whites of three for 
layers, reserving whites of two for icing. 

Eggless Jelly Cake. — Two cups of flour, two teaspoons each cream 
tartar and soda, evenly mixed with flour ; one cup each sweet milk 
and sugar, and one large spoon butter or lard. Beat all together and 
bake in a quick oven. An excellent cheap jelly cake. 

White Fruit Cake. — To one cup of butter beaten to a cream, add 
two of sugar, three of flour in which two teaspoons baking powder 
have been sifted, and the stiffly beaten whites of six eggs. Bake in 
jelly-cake tins ; when done (while still hot) put between the layers 
this filling ; Chop fine a quarter pound each of figs, seeded raisins, 
citron, preserved ginger and blanched almonds, and stir them into 
whites three eggs beaten stiff, a cup powdered sugar, and the juice 
of one lemon ; frost the whole quickly. A most delicious cake, which 
may be made more delicious by using the Tutti Frutti Icing. 

I^^ite Mountain Cake. — Cream a scant pint sugar with a gill and 



LAYER CAKE. 



77 



a half butter ; add prepared Lemon Juice of one lemon, beaten yolks 
of five eggs, and beat until smooth, add well-frothed whites, one 
quarter at a time, half a pint milk, two tablespoons rose-water, one 
pint flour, one-third pint corn starch, and two teaspoons baking 
powder sifted together. When very light pour into jelly-cake pans 
and bake in a quick oven to a light brown. Make a Boiled Icing 
with two-thirds pint pulverized sugar, half a pint water, whites four 
eggs, when cold add!^ half tablespoon vanilla sugar. To make a 
handsome Cocoanut Cake, sprinkle each layer with grated cocoanut, 
or French icing may be used in place of Boiled Icing, dotting the top 
with halves of English Walnuts ; or if the French Icing is used 
in cocoanut cake, sprinkle top with grated cocoanut. Or for Castle 
Cake cream together cup butter, three of sugar, add cup sweet milk, 
two teaspoons baking powder, sifted Avith four cups flour,and last the 
well-beaten whites ten eggs. If coffee cups are used in measuring, 
this recipo makes four layers. Put together with a thin coating of 
Boiled Icing, made of three eggs and two cups sugar as directed in 
icings ; grate two cocoanuts and sprinkle thickly over each layer, 
and the top and sides. 

Lady Fingers. — Beat yolks often eggs and one and a third pint of 
pulverized sugar till very light, add the well frothed whites,alternating 
with a pint and a half of flour, a little of each at a time ; use the mer- 
ingue bag described in confectionery for shap- 
ing the cakes ; press and run the dough out 
quickly through the tube into a pan lined with 
_ light brown paper (not buttered), making each 

s^^^m about a finger long and about as thick as a 
Plate of Lady Fingures. Icad pcncll, bclug carcful uot to get them too 
wide, or bake in pans made for the pur- 
pose. Sprinkle with granulated sugar, 
bake in a quick oven, and when cool 
wet the under side of the paper with a 
brush, remove and stick the fingers to- 
gether back to back. The bag when made Ladj ungerpan. 
of ticking, will be useful in making macaroons and other small cakes 

Maple Cake. — Three eggs, one cup white sugar, two tablespoons 
sweet milk, one heaping cup flour with two teaspoons baking 
powder in it. For filling : boil one cup maple syrup to wax ; beat 
white of one egg to stifl" froth, and pour the syrup on it, stirring 
briskly. Very nice. 

Minnesota Cake. — One and a half cups granulated sugar, half 
cup butter stirred to a cream, whites six eggs, or three whole eggs, 
two teaspoons cream tartar stirred in two heaping cups sifted flour, 
one teaspoon Boda in half cup sweet milk ; bake in three layers. 
For filling, take a cup sugar and a little water, boil together until it 
is brittle when dropped in cold water, remove from stove and stir 





78 LAYER CAKES. 



quickly into a well beaten white of an egg ; add to this a cup of 
stoned raisins chopped fine, or a cup of chopped hickory-nut meats, 
and place between layers and over the top. A universal favorite. 

Neapolitan Cake (Yellow, Pink, White and Brown). — ^Yel- 
low : Two cups powdered sugar creamed with one cup butter, five 
eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, one-half cup milk, three 
cups prepared flour, a little nutmeg. Pink and White : One-half 
pound butter creamed with one pound powdered sugar, whites ten 
eggs whipped stiff, and one pound prepared flour ; divide this batter 
into two equal portions, leave one white and color the other with a 
very little prepared cochineal. Use carefully, as a few drops too 
much will ruin the color. Brown : One-fourth cup butter creamed 
with one cup powdered sugar, add three eggs beaten lightly, two 
tablespoons cream, one heaping cup prepared flour, and two table- 
spoons vanilla chocolate grated and rubbed smooth in cream ; bake 
in layers, the above quantity making three of each color. Half a? 
much will be sufficient for a family cake, but for a large supper or 
church "sociable" use the whole recipe. Filling — Yellow and 
Brown : Two cups milk, two tablespoons corn starch wet with milk, 
two eggs, two cups powdered sugar ; heat the milk to boiling, stir in 
the sugar and corn starch, cook a few minutes and put in the eggs, 
boiling until thick. Divide the custard into two parts, and stir into 
one two tablespoons grated chocolate, and into the other a teaspoon 
bitter almond. White : Whip into the stiffened whites of three eggs 
one heaping cup powde^-ed sugar, and the juice and half the grated 
peel of one lemon. Use a layer of the brown cake as a foundation 
for the pile spread with yellow custard, then the pink coated with 
chocolate, then the v,^hite and yellow layers separated with the white 
frosting, or put together in any order fancied. Very elaborate and 
nice. 

Orange Cane. — Beat whites of three and yolks of five eggs sep- 
arately ; cream two cups sugar and a half cup butter ; add one-half 
cup cold water, two and one-half cups flour, two teaspoons baking 
powder and the grated rind and juice of one orange (saving one ta- 
blespoon juice for frosting). Bake in layers and put together with 
this frosting : Whites of two eggs, two cups sugar and the table- 
spoon orange juice. Frost top also. 

Orange Custard Cake. — One and one-half cups sugar, one cup 
butter, two and one-half cups flour, five well beaten eggs, four tea- 
spoons sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers. 
For filling : Two whole oranges grated with peel of one ; one cup 
sugar, two tablespoons butter, two eggs ; beat well together and boil 
until it thickens, stirring to keep it from burning on the bottom. 

Orange Cake. — Two cups sugar, half cup butter, three and a 
half cups sifted flour, half cup sweet milk, three eggs beaten sepa- 
rately, three teaspoons baking powder mixed in flour; bake in jelly<= 



LAYER CAKE. 79 



pans. For filling, take the juice and grated rind of two oranges, two 
tablespoons cold water, two cups sugar; cook in custard kettle 
and when scalding hot stir in the yolks of two well beaten eggs, and 
just before taking from the fire stir in the white of one egg slightly 
beaten, and when cold put between layers of cake ; frost the top with 
the other egg. Or for Mystic Orange Cake, to the well-beaten whites 
of thirteen eggs, add alternately one and one-third pints pulverized 
sugar and the beaten yolks, a little at a time of each ; beat thorough- 
ly add pint flour and two-thirds pint of corn starch (some sift 
with this, teaspoon baking powder) and when partially mixed pour 
in half pint boiling butter. When well beaten bake in jelly pans. 
For filling, cream yolks of eight eggs, half pint sugar, tablespoon 
corn starch and add juice of two oranges and one lemon with grat- 
ed rind of former and half pint of water, cook as above and spread 
as directed. Very nice and delicious. For Mystic Lemon Cake, 
use juice and grated rind of two lemons and juice of one orange or 
latter may be omitted. For Buckeye Lemon Cake, use batter of Min- 
nesota cake and a filling as follows : grated rind of one lemon and 
pound well in a mortar with one ounce sugar ; rub into this with 
tht pestle one egg and juice of one lemon and enough "XXX" sugar 
to make a nice smooth paste. For Pine Apple '^'ake, spread the lay- 
ers with grated pine-apple sprinkled with sugar ; and a nice orna- 
ment of a pine-apple is described in Charlotte Russe recipe. 

Rihhon Cake. — Make a paste of a gill of blanched and grated 
almonds (grated after measuring) and a little white of egg; to this 
add half pint pulverized sugar and yolks of five eggs, or more if 
needed to make a smooth paste, beat till very light, Have pre- 
pared four tablespoons of rye bread crumbs by drying, pounding 
and Bifting through a coarse sieve, then spreading, out thinly on a 
pan and browning (without burning) in oven and soaking in rasp- 
berry or blackberry shrub and squeezing dry. To half of the well 
frothed whites of five eggs add half gill browned flour and half of 
the prepared bread crumbs ; mix well and add remainder of eggs, 
half gill more flour and rest of crumbs. To this add tLe paste of al- 
monds, sugar and yolks, also yolks of five more eggs, or enough to 
make number of yolks used, ten ; teaspoon grated nutmeg, two of 
pulverized cinnamon and half ounce each of candied orange and 
lemon peel and citron. Bake in a jelly cake pan, making one layer 
of a rich brown color. Make one white layer from any batter made 
of whites of eggs, using part of the whites that are left and a yellow 
layer from a sponge cake batter. In building place brown layer at 
bottom and ice with Cape May icing ; upon this place yellow layer 
and ice with icing made of yolk of one egg and nine teaspoons 
sugar; place white layer on top and ice with French icing, dotting 
it over with the halves of EnglisJ? Walnuts. This makes a very 
elegant and delicious cake. 

Cream Rose Cake. — Stir into a cup sweet cream with a pinch 



80 LAYER CAKE. 



soda, one cup butter creamed with three cups powdered sugar , whip 
with egg beater five minutes, or until like whipped cream ; flavor 
with vanilla and add five cups flour,three teaspoons tjaking powder and 
frothed whites ten eggs. Color a fine pink with cochineal, which is per- 
fectly harmless and which your druggist will prepare for you in 
either powdered or liquid form. If in the former, moisten before 
using with a very little water. Strain and stir in drop by drop until 
you get the right tint. Bake in four layers. For filling, take one 
and one-half cocoanuts pared and grated, whites four eggs whisked 
stiff, one and one-half cups powdered sugar, two teaspoons rose-water. 
Heap the cake after it is filled with this mixture, beating in more 
sugar for the purpose. Very pretty. 

Boston Cream Puffs. — Put half pint milk and two-thirds cup 
butter over the fire ; when it comes to a boil stir in one and one-half 
cups sifted flour and continue stirring until smooth and the mixture 
leaves the sides of the pan. Remove from the fire and beat thor- 
oughly into it five eggs, first stirred together lightly to break up and 
mix the whites and yolks, but do not beat them before adding to the 
flour and milk. Drop on cold greased tins a tablespoon in a place, 
leaving space between? to prevent touching, brush over with the yolk 
of an egg mixed with a little water, and sprinkle with granulated 
sugar. Bake thirty one minutes in a medium oven (test same as for 
angel cake), or until all moisture is thoroughly dried out, lest they 
may fall. When done they will be hollow. Let them get cold, then 
make an opening in the side, just above middle of puff*, lift top a little 
and fill the space with whipped cream or cufitard, as given below. The 
neatest way to put in the filling is to inject it through the meringue bag 
but a spoon may be used. For the whipped cream, ten ounces pow- 
dered sugar, a quart of cream ; whip up stiff" and flavor with one table- 
spoon vanilla, or juice of one orange or grated peel dissolved in a 
little hot water and strained. Or for Neio York Cream Puffs put half pint 
water with half gill butter, cut in bits, in sauce-pan ; when it boils add 
half pint flour and stir rapidly till well mixed and smooth ; in about 
half minute, take from stove and stir half minute longer. It should be 
velvety to the touch and not adhere to anything. Let stand five min- 
utes then add eight eggs, one at a time, stirring each one in well. After 
half an hour, stir a little and drop by tablespoons, on greased pans 
two and a half inches apart each way ; brush with Roll Glaze and 
bake as above, watching closely that they do not scorch. For fill- 
ing, mix smooth tablespoon each flour and corn starch with a little 
of the milk and boil the remainder, (use one pint in all), in a custard 
kettle. Beat yolks with pint granulated sugar and the flour paste 
and stir into hot milk ; when smooth add half teaspoon butter, re- 
move from stove and mix in half tablespoon Vanilla Sugar and 
let cool. 

Chocolate Eclairs — Make paste after recipe for "Boston Cream 



LAYER CAKE. 81 



Puffs," shape into cakes about four inches long and one and one- 
half wide, placing them on cold greased tins about two inches apart ; 
A meringue bag is convenient to use pressing the butter out upon a 
well buttered baking tin. By closing and holding up the larger end 
of the bag, the paste will come out in rope-like shape, and of the 
size of the tube you may choose for the purpose (an inch in diame- 
ter at the largest.) Draw the bag toward you, while squeezing, and 
stop when you have made a cake five inches long. Bake like puffs 
in a quick oven fifteen to twenty minutes. As they come 
from the oven dip the tops of the eclairs into an icing made 
by stirring over the fire two squares scraped chocolate witlj five 
tablespoons powdered sugar and three of boiling water. "When cold 
make an opening in the side and fill with custard made as fol- 
lows : Heat to boiling one and one-half cups milk in custard kettle, 
beat together two-thirds cup sugar, one-fourth cup flour, two eggs, 
and one-fourth teaspoon salt, pinch of pulverized cinnamon, and stir 
the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook fifteen minutes, stirring 
often ; when cold flavor with vanilla extract ; if a chocolate flavor is 
preferred in the custard add one teaspoon dissolved chocolate. For 
Charlotte Eclairs make the filling described in the recipe for Buck- 
eye Charlotte Russe and ice with Almond Icing. For Coffee Eclairs 
add to the filling given above for Chocolate Eclairs, two tablespoons 
of strong coffee (prepared the same as for the table) in place of 
chocolate; icing first with Vanilla Icing. For Cream Eclairs^ fill 
with whipped cream, and ice with Snow Icing, For Jelly Eclairs^ fill 
with any fruit jelly, according to taste and with nearly all of them 
Lemon Icing may be appropriately used. For Duplex Eclairs, fill 
with Peach Puree, given in Apple Cake, adding some finely chopped 
blanched almonds to it, ice with Almond Icing. For Strawberry 
Eclairs, fill with the cream in Strawberry Cream Cake with tablespoon 
Orange Juice added and ice with Orange Icing. For Vanilla Eclairs 
fill with first filling given with tablespoon Vanilla Sugar added. Ad- 
ditional varieties may be made by using different creams for filling, 
the latter giving the name to the eclair. 

Xebec Cake. — Cream one and two-thirds pints sugar and scant 
half pint butter, add half nutmeg (grated), prepared Lemon Juice 
of one lemon, one gill cream or rich milk and well frothed whites of 
seven eggs, alternated with two pints and a half flour sifted with 
three teaspoons baking powder, a little of each at a time. Lastly 
add a cocoanut finely grated and bake in jelly pans. For filling 
beat whites of four eggs Avith two-thirds pint pulverized sugar, add 
an almond paste made by rubbing in a mortar one pound shelled 
and blanched almonds (reserving thirty for top) with two teaspoons 
rose-water. Spread on layers, ice the top and dot it with the al- 
monds cut lengthwise in thin sliceg. 



82 



COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 



Xenophon Cake. — One cup sugar, half each of butter and milk, 
whites of four eggs, scant two cups flour, flavor with vanilla ; two 
teaspoons baking powder. Stir flour in last very lightly. Bake in 
layers and when cold spread with this filling ; scant pound shelled 
almonds, blanched and pounded in a mortar (or a bowl may be used 
with the potato-masher), half cup thick sour cream, juice of half a 
lemon, make very sweet. Mix and let stand in cold place one bour 
before using. Delicious but must be eaten the day it is made. 



Cookies and Jumbles. 




Cookie Cutters. 



Sift before measuring all flour used in mixing and rolling, and 
bake in a quick oven. A nice " finishing touch " can be given by 
sprinkling them with granulated sugar or seeds, and rolling over 
lightly with the rolling pin, then cutting out and press- 
ing a whole raisin in the center of each ; or, when done 
a very light brown, brush over while still hot with a 
small bristle brush called a pastry brush, and kept for 
such purposes, or a soft bit of rag dipped in a thick 
syrup of sugar and water, or the roll glaze made of yolk of one egg, 
its bulk in water and quarter teaspoon sugar ; sprinkle with currants, 

cocoa-nut, or any 
seed preferred, and 
return to the oven 
a moment. Seed 
cookies may fee 
made by adding one 
tablespoon caraway 
seeds to any of the following recipes. Flour should never he used 
for any purpose without sifting, so it is well to always have a large 
covered can or bucket full of sifted flour in the pantry. 

Bachelor'' s Buttons. — Mix two ounces butter, three of sugar, five 
of flour ; to this add two ounces sugar mixed with one egg ; flavor to 
taste. Roll in hand to size of a large nut, then roll in sugar, place 
on tins with buttered paper and bake lightly. 

Chocolate CooJcies. — Three-fourths cake chocolate, two cups 
white sugar, one of butter, one-half cup cold water, two eggs, one 
teaspoon soda, flour to roll. To finish nicely ice the tops. 




Combination Cake Board. 



COOKIES AND JUMBLES. §3 

Cream Cookies. — One cup each sour cream and sugar, one egg, 
one level teaspoon soda, nutmeg ; mix as soft as can be handled, roll 
thin and bake quickly. 

Eggless Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each milu; and butter, 
half teaspoon each nutmeg and soda, flour to roll. 

Fruit Cookies. — Two cups sugar, half cup butter, cup sour 
cream, (or sour milk may be used with more butter), two cups 
chopped raisins, two eggs, two tablespoons cinnamon, one teaspoon 
each nutmeg, cloves, and soda. Bake same as other cookies. 

Graham Cookies. — Shave two cups maple sugar, and stir with 
one of butter, one egg, one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda ; mix 
with graham flour ; use white flour on molding board. Brown or 
white sugar may be used instead of maple. 

Good Cookies. — Two cups sugar, one each butter and sour cream 
or milk, three eggs, one teaspoon soda ; mix soft, roll thin, sift gran- 
ulated sugar over them, and gently roll it in. 

Hickory-Nut Cookies. — Two cups sugar, two eggs, half cup 
melted butter, six tablespoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, hall 
teaspoon soda, flour to roll and one cup chopped meats stirred in the 
dough. 

Nutmeg Cookies. — Two cups white sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, two-thirds cup sour milk, nutmeg or caraway seed for flavor, 
two eggs, half teaspoon soda, and six cups flour, or enough to roll. 
Roll thin, and bake in quick oven. 

North German Christmas Cookies. — Six pounds flour, two 
each of sugar, butter, and molasses, one teaspoon saleratus dissolved 
in rose water, arrack, or spirits, a few cloves and cinna- 
mon pounded together, one pound raisins pounded in 
a mortar, half pound citron chopped fine. Warm mo- 
lasses, sugar and butter slightly, and gradually stir in _ 

the flour ; knead well and roll out, and cut in various ^ cookie cmters. 
shapes. One-half the dough may be flavored with anise or carda- 
mon, omitting the raisins. This recipe will make a large quantity, 
and they are pretty to hang upon the tree during Christmas week, 
and to pass in baskets to holiday callers. This is the bona fide 
Christmas cookie. 

Seed Cookies. — Cream one-half pound butter with three-fourths 
pound sugar, and sift in one and one-half pounds flour, adding one 
well-beaten egg, a half gill rose water, and a pinch soda dissolved in 
tablespoon warm water, knead well, roll into a sheet, cut with cutter 
having scalloped edge, and bake in buttered pan fifteen minutes. 
Use fennel, coriander, caraway, or cardamon seeds, or any mixture 
of them preferred. 




84 COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 



Scotch Cookies. — Half cup molasses, one and a half of sugar, 
one and a quarter of butter (or half butter and half lard), two eggs, tea- 
spoon each soda, cloves and allspice, two of cinnamon, and flour 
to roll ; roll thin, cut and bake ; or a richer recipe is two and a half 
pounds sugar, one and a fourth of butter, three of flour, five eg^s, 
half pint molasses and one ounce soda mixed v/ith it ; roll very thin, 
cut with cake cutter, place in pan, giving each cake plenty of room, 
and put in oven ; when half done brush over top with glaze made 
wirth yolk of an egg, as much water as there is egg, and quarter of 
teaspoon sugar ; return to oven and bake. 

Whortleberry Soft Cookies. — One cup ^ugar, one and a half of 
milk, with half teaspoon soda dissolved in it, tablespoon butter, one 
quart berries, teaspoon cream tartar, and flour to make a stiff" batter ; 
bake in small cake tins. 

Crescents. — Rub eight ounces each rice flour and sugar togeth- 
er, and add eight eggs mixed to a cream after the yolks and whites 
have been beaten separately ; stir all together smoothly, spread thin- 
ly on buttered paper, and bake tAventy minutes ; then cut with a 
crescent cutter into cakes, ice each one, and set in the oven for a 
minute to dry. Vary the icing if liked by coloring portions with 
cochineal and saffron, icing some of the crescents pink, some yellow 
and the effect is very pretty. 

Jew Cakes. — Three-fourths pound each butter and sugar, one 
pound flour, two eggs, two teaspoons baking powder ; roll thin, cut 
out, wash over top with an egg beaten in half cup cream, sprinkle 
with pound finely chopped almonds mixed Avith pound fine granu- 
lated sugar, and bake in quick oven . 

Jumbles. — One and a half cups white sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, three eggs, three tablespoons sweet milk, half teaspoon soda 
and one of cream tartar ; mix with sufficient flour to roll ; roll and 
sprinkle with sugar ; cut out and bake. 

Cocoa-nut Jumhles. — Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, 
half a grated cocoa-nut ; make just stiff enough to roll out ; roll thin. 

Lemon Jujnhles.— One egg, one cup sugar, half cup butter, three 
teaspoons milk, one teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda, two 
small lemons, juice of both and grated rind of one ; mix rather stiff", 
roll, and cut with cake cutter. 

Zemo7i Snaps. — A large cup sugar, two-thirds cuj? butter, half 
teaspoon soda dissolved in two teaspoons hot water, flour enough to 
roll thin ; flavor with lemon, 

Pepper -nuts. — One pound sugar, five eggs, half pound butter, 
half cup milk, tAvo teaspoons baking powder, flour enough to roll. 



COOKIES AND JUMBLES. 



85 



Seedlings. — Sift a quart and a half of flour mixed with a 
heaped teaspoon of baking powder ; make a hole in the center, pour 
in one pint and a third of pulverized sugar, make a hole in the sugar, 
break in lour eggs, which beat lightly with a knife till well mixed 
with the sugar ; add three-fourths of a pint of butter, chop fine, add 
to it one-half a pint of milk and a half gill of caraway seeds, work 
quickly to a dough and set to rise ; cut off a piece as large as a bis- 
cuit, roll it out one-eighth of an inch thick, cut into small, round 
cakes, place a half inch apart on a buttered tin, continuing until all 
are ready ; then bake in a quick oven. This may be made without 
eggs and some add the grated rind of a lemon. For Bonnie Buns, 
rub pint and a half of flour and half gill butter well together ; warm 
one gill of milk, add to it a pinch of salt and half gill yeast, make a 
hole in the dough and pour in milk, let rise. Beat together a gill of 
sugar, two eggs and add to sponge when raised ; then add three-fourths 
ounce sliced citron and one-quarter ounce caraway feeed, roll into 
a thick sheet, cut into cakes, and place to rise. When light, bake 
in a quick oven. Brush with Roll Glaze and eat while fresh. For Spice 
Seedlings, cream a half pint each butter and granulated sugar, add 
lightly a quart of flour, a half nutmeg grated, two tablespoons car- 
away seed, a level tablespoon powdered cinnamon, a half gill each 
of milk and rose water and cold water enough to make a stiff dough. 
Roll out in sheets a quarter of an inch thick, cut with a small cake- 
cutter and bake as described for cookies in a quick oven, to a deli- 
cate brown. For Currant Seedlings, cream one gill butter and three- 
fourths pint granulated sugar, add two eggs, half gill milk, pint 
flour, with teaspoon baking powder, teaspoon cinnamon, prepared 
lemon juice of one small lemon and quarter of a pound dried cur- 
rants, well floured. Bake in patty pans, 

Springerlies. — One pound of sugar, four eggs beaten light and 
thick, add pound flour into which teaspoon baking powder has been 
sifted and roll into little balls, press with a small glass plate or salt 
cellar, let stand until morning and bake in a quick oven. Or, roll 
and cut out with any of the cookie cutters illustrated ; let rise and 
bake as above, 

Sugarines. — Cream scant half pint 
granulated sugar, gill and a half butter 
add yolks of three eggs, and when well 
beaten, put in pint flour, one grated nut- 
meg, the beaten whites, and drop with a 
spoon on a greased pan, inch and a half 
apart; sprinkle with grated cocoanut, 
or chopped almonds, bake in a quick 
oven. For Almond Sugarives, add to 
above a gill of sour milk, half level teaspoon soda and half pint 
blanched and chopped almonds. 




Cookie Stamps. 



86 CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 

Savoys. — Cream pint butter and one and one-third pints sucnr, 
add gradually yolks of five eggs, prepared lemon juice of one ienon, 
two tablespoons rose-water and heaping quart flour, alternated with 
the well-beaten whites ; put into meringue bag and squeeze out in 
drops size of a dollar on buttered pans and and bake in a quick 
oven ; when cold dust with sugar. Or, use only half pint butter and 
three more eggs and flour enough to roll. Dust molding board with 
pulverized sugar, roll dough half inch thick, cut in "fingers' half 
inch wide and four inches long and form into rings by joining at 
each end and bake as cookies. 



Crullers and Dougliimts, 



These are fried by being immersed in hot fat ; either lard, clari- 
fied drippings of roast beef, or olive oil, (a large part of which, as 
sold in the market is a refined cotton-seed oil.) Better than either 
is beef suet, which is equally cheap and cleanly and more whole- 
some. To prepare, secure nice, whole, clean "leaves" of fat, cut up 
into small pieces and place in an iron pot which will hold ten 
pounds. Add a pint of water, place over a good fire and stir fre- 
quently, after the first hour. It will require three hours to "render" 
it. When done drain through a coarse cloth, press the fat out of 
the "cracklings," place in pans or jars, cover and put in a cool 
place and use when wanted repeatedly. The flavor of doughnuts 
cooked in such fat is better than when lard is used. The dough for 
these usually indigestible favorites should be made as soft as can be 
and handle well. Roll about half an inch thick, cut in strips about 
a half inch wide, and cook five to eight minutes. To learn the 
exact time, break one open as a test. When done drain well 
in a skimmer as they are removed from the fire, and place in a 
colander op on coarse brown paper. Sprinkle with sugar while hot 
to make the fancy sort. Regulate the fire as evenly as possible and 
attend strictly to the business while frying. The use of eggs in the 
dough prevents the absorbtion of fat. Use an iron kettle for frying. 
Doughnuts are for cold weather diet and should never be cooked in 
warm weather. Crullers should be eaten the day after they are 
made. After using the fat for frying, cut a raw potato into it to 
clarify it, and set away until the sediment falls to the bottom and 
then drain into an earthen crock kept for the purpose which should 
always be set in a cool place, well covered. 



CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS. 



87 



Crullers. Six tablespoons each melted butter and sugar, si:s 
eggs and flour to roll. 

Crullers. — One egg, one tablespoon melted butter, three table- 
spoons sugar, make very stiff mth flour, roll rather thin ; they will 
fry very quickly ; take them from the fat well drained and dip them in 
sugar. 

Crullers. One pound butter, one and one-half pounds powder- 
ed sugar, twelve eggs one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon 
each nutmeg and mace, flour to make stiff dough. Mix thoroughly, 
and knead until stiff enough to roll out to a quarter inch thick 
cut in squares, make three or four long incisions in each square, 
lift by taking alternate strips between the finger and thumb, drop 
into hot lard, and cook like doughnuts, or they may be shaped as 
in Figure 1, or given the much more elaborate shape of Figure 3. 





To give them the shape of Fig. 3, first cut the paste, as in Fig. 2 ; 
hold the first line with thumb and finger of the left hand, then with 
the right hand slip the second line under the first, then the third 
under the second, and so on until they are all slipped under ; pinch 
the two ends together, and the cruller will be in form of Fig 3. 

Buckeye Doughnuts. — Cream half pint granulated sugar and gill 
butter, add two well-beaten eggs, half pint milk, one grated nutmeg 
and pint and a half flour sifted with two teaspoons baking pow- 
der. 

French Doughnuts. — One cup butter, three of white sugar, one 
pint sweet milk, four eggs, teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, and 
juice of one lemon. 

Raised Doughnuts. — In the evening mix quart flour, scant gill 
butter, third of a pint sugar and half teaspoon cinnamon together ; 
add one or two eggs well-beaten, half pint bread sponge, tablespoon 
rose water and milk to make a soft dough and let rise ; 
next morning roll quarter of an inch thick, cut with 
doughnut cutter and fry in hot lard. Some use gill of 
yeast instead of the sponge. ^ ^ ^ 

•' jr o Doughuut Cutter. 

Andover Wonders. — Boil together one cup water, tablespoon 
powdered sugar, half teaspoon salt and two ounces butter, and 
while boiling, add sufficient flour to make it leave sides of pan ; stir 
in one by one the yolks four eggs ; drop into hot lard from a teas- 
poon and fry light brown. 




GINGER-BREAD. 



Parisian Straws. — Beat eight eggs till very thick, add three- 
fourths of a pint of sugar, quarter of a teaspoon each of cinnamon 
and nutmeg, and flour enough to make a stiff dough. Roll into a 
sheet half an inch thick, cut into slips half an ijich wide and four 
inches long, give each a twist, cook in hot lard like doughnuts, and 
when cool silt sugar over them. 

Zulus. — Cream pint butter and one-third pints pulverized sugar 
add yolks of six eggs, gill of sour milk, quarter teaspoon soda, tea- 
spoon cinnamon and quart flour. Roll out thin, cut into narrow 
strips, mix into any fancy shapes and cook as doughnuts, dusting 
with pulzeri?ed sugar when partially cooled. Or for Fruit Zulus 
work half pint butter into quart flour ; add yolks of four eggs mixed 
with pint sugar, half gill cream, pound of currants, prepared as di- 
rected and well beaten whites of two eggs, roll out, cut with small 
biscuit cutter, inch and half in diameter and fry as above, or they 
can be cooked as cookies, brushing with white of egg and dusting 
with sugar before baking. 



Gringer-Bread, 



In making the old fashioned soft square cakes of ginger bread, 
of which children are so fond ; put a portion of the dough on a 
well floured sheet of tin, roll out evenly, trim off" neatly at the edges, 
and work off" in squares with a knife dipped in flour or a wheel cut- 
ter made for the purpose. Prepared in this way, the dough may be 
mixed softer then when it must be handled in removing from the 
board to the tin on which it is to be baked, after rolling and cutting^ 
In mixing and rolling ginger bread always use sifted flour and if the 
dough becomes too stiff", set before the fire. A moderate oven is re- 
quired for ginger bread and cakes, for snaps a quick oven. Snaps 
should never be made on a damp day. New Orleans and Porto Rico 
molasses, not syrup, should be used. When snaps or cookies be- 
come moistheat in oven. 



Fairy Ginger-hrca.d. — Cream one cup butter M-ith two of sugar, 
add tablespoon ginger, three-fourths teaspoon soda in cup milk, and 
four cups flour; butter baking pans, spread cake mixture thin as a 
wafer on them, and bake in moderate oven till brown. The mo- 
ment it comes from the oven cut into squares with case knife and 
slip from pan. Delicious. Keep in tin box. 

LoaJ Gimjer-hread. — Heat together for ten minutes one cupeaclj 



GINGER-BREAD. 89 



butter, molasses and sugar with a tablespoon ^^jSS^^^^^^^ 
each ginger and cinnamon, then add a half^^ ^ l iillilliiip^ 
cup cold water, tablespoon soda dissolved i n ^^^ ^^^--- """"'"a ii^^ y 
boiling water, and flour to stir very hard. oinger-bread Loaf, 

Bake in loaves ; brush them over with syrup while hot, and eat 
fresh. 

Spiced Ginger-hread. — One cup each sugar, butter and molasses, 
three eggs, three cups flour, one teaspoon soda dissolved in a cup 
sour cream, half a nutmeg, teaspoon cloves, tablespoon ginger. Ex- 
tra good. 

Sponge Ginger-bread. — One cup each sour milk and Orleans mo- 
lasses, a half cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon soda, tablespoon ginger, 
flour to make as thick as pound cake; put butter molasses and 
ginger together, make them quite warm, add the milk, flour, eggs, 
and soda, and bake as soon as possible. 

White Ginger-bread. — Rub a half pound each butter and flour 
together, add half pound finely powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the 
finely minced rind of one lemon, an ounce ground ginger and a 
grated nutmeg ; mix well together and work into a smooth paste 
with one gill milk just warm, in which a half teaspoon carbonate 
of soda has been dissolved ; make into cakes, and bake in moderate 
oven fifteen or twenty minutes. 

Ginger Nuts. — Cream gill butter and heaping gill brown sugar, 
add half pint flour, tablespoon and a half ginger, half teaspoon cloves 
and cinnamon, grated peel of an orange, half pint molasses with tea- 
spoon soda stirred in, and roll into a sheet half inch thick. Cut in- 
to small cakes inch iu diameter, mold into balls, place in a greased 
pan and bake. Will keep well. 

Ginger Cakes. — Put two teaspoons soda into pint molasses, beat 
to a foam, add gill cold water and quart flour and beat well, slightly 
melt half pint butter, add to above, with quart flour and teaspoon 
ginger, bake in patty pans forty minutes. For a Ginger Plurti Cake 
cream half pint each butter and sugar, add tablespoon gmger, half 
tablespoon each of cloves and cinnamon three well beaten eggs, 
alternated with one quart flour, half of each at a time, pint molas- 
ses with teaspoon soda ; stir well, add three quarters pound seed- 
ed raisins and half pound currants. For Ginger Tea-Cake, mix two 
cups each powdered sugar and warmed butter, add three well beat- 
en yolks, a cup molasses, four heaping cups flour, tablespoon each 
ginger and soda. Bake in patty pans in a moderate oven. 

Ginger Snaps. — Boil together one cup each molasses, butter and 
sugar. Add two teaspoons each soda and cinnamon, one each 
cloves and ginger, flour enough to roll out smoothly. Roll thin and 
bake quickly. 



90 CANNING FRUITS. 



CANlSrrN-G- FH-TJITS. 



In order to work intelligently, the principle applied in canning 
should be understood. The fruit is prepared by placing it in a 
vessel from which the external air is entirely excluded, and this is 
effected by the use of heat to rarefy and expel the air that may be 
entangled in the mass of fruit or lodged in its pores. The preserva- 
tion of fruit does not depend upon sugar, though enough of this is 
generally used to make it palatable. The heat answers another pur- 
pose ; it destroys the ferment which fruits naturally contain, and so 
long as they are kept from contact with the external air they do not 
decompose. 

Fruits for canning should be selected carefully, and are much 
better if gathered in the morning, in dry weather, with the morning 
sun upon them, if possible ; they will then have their fullest ilavor, 
and keep in good condition longer than when gathered at any 
other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed in the dairy, 
an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain fresh 
and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather 
will soon be mildewed. All imperfect and over-ripe fruit must be 
rejected. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, etc., are in the best 
condition to can when not quite fully ripe, and should be put up as 
soon as possible after picking. An easy way to peel peaches is to 
place them in a wire basket, to the handle of which a cord has been 
tied, let down into boiling water for a moment (some use strong 
white lye), then into cold water, and strip off the skin. This is 
called the dipping process. The fruit must be at a certain stage to 
be prepared in this way, for if too green it will not peel, and if too 



CANNING FRUITS. 91 



ripe it will be too much softened by the hot water. Peaches, pears, 

and all large fruits should be thrown into 
an earthen vessel of cold water as soon as 
Paring Knife. peeled,as exposure to the air darkens them. 

But the fruit should not stand long in the water, as it will soon be- 
come soft, and it is better to prepare only enough for one can at a 
time. Cooking reduces peaches about one-half and pears one- 
third. Small fruits, such as berries, should never stand overnight 
if it is possible to avoid it, and should never be put in tin. The 
highest-flavored and longest-keeping fruits are best put up without 
paring, after having carefully removed the down with a fine but stiff 
brush. Use only the best sugar in the proportion of half a pound 
of sugar to a pound of good fruit, varying the rule, of course, with 
the sweetness of fruit. Fine granulated sugar is the best for can- 
ning. In canning for pies many omit sugar, as the natural flavor is 
better preserved without it, and some prefer this method for all pur- 
poses ; several recipes without sugar are given. It is econom- 
ical, and well worthy of experiment. Cans put up in this way 
should have a special mark to distinguish them from the rest. 
Before beginning the work of canning have ready all the neces- 
sary utensils, which include the following : A thin-bladed, sharp, 
steel knife which should be often wiped off" during the paring pro- 
cess (though a silver knife is better when fruit is wanted extra nice), 
an earthen vessel to hold fruit after it is peeled, scales for weighing, 
or two pint measures, one each for measuring sugar and fruit, a por- 
celain-lined or granite ironware kettle with lip (a six-quart kettle is 
a good size and two will be found convenient), a tin skimmer for 
removing the scum, a silver or thoroughly clean wooden spoon 
(never use any other in fruit), a silver knife for one-quart cans or 
round wooden stick for two-quart ones for expelling the air from 
cans after filling, a silver fork or a broom splint for testing cooked 
fruit (a steel fork discolors), a wide-mouthed fun- ^p' ^^^ jmr---^ 
nel or can-filler made to set into the can, though a ^t ^ii^ff 
small tin strainer or dipper of the right size with- ^fc^R 
out a bottom will do, a wire spoon for lifting the Z*^^^^^. 
larger fruits, a bright tin dipper (if old or rusty it ffl 

will discolor the fruit), or a small pitcher or large M 

coffee-cup with handle for dipping syrup and small om-flner. 
fruits, and a small handled strainer for dipping small fruits as de- 



92 CANNING FRUITS. 



scribed with recipe, a large pan with heavy folded towel in bottom 
on which to stand cans while heating, and plenty of holders and 
towels for lifting from stove and wiping off cans. Canned fruit is 
much nicer if syrup is strained when pouring into can, and for this 
purpose make a strainer of cheese-cloth cut round and large enough 
to sink into can-filler, and run a fine wire or string into the top to 
tie or hold it in place, or use handled strainer as given above. 

The cans must be thoroughly cleaned and tested to see if any 
leak or are cracked. If tin cans leak send them to the tinner ; if 
discolored inside they may be lined with writing paper and are thus 
used by many with success, but glass cans are always preferable. In 
buying stoneware for canning purposes be sure that it is well glazed, 
as fruits canned in jars or jugs imperfectly glazed sometimes become 
poisonous. Never use defective glass cans, but keep them for stor- 
ing things in the pantry, and in buying them, take care that they 
are free from flaws and blisters, else the glass will crumble off in 
small particles when subjected to heat. Self-sealers are very con- 
venient, those with a porcelain-lined screw top being the best, the 
Mason preferred. (The improved Mason has a glass top held in 
place by a metal band screwing down over the can, and these are not 
reliable.) The "Almy" is highly recommended by many. The heat 
hardens the rubber rings used on self-sealers but new ones may now 
be procured at any furnishing store. Most of the earthenware and 
tin cans have a groove around the top for sealing with wax or putty ; 
sealing with the latter is most convenient as the jars can be opened 
readily with a strong fork or knife, and are much more easily cleaned 
than when wax-sealed. Putty may be bought ready for use, and is 
soon made soft by molding in the hand. In using it should be 
worked out into a small roll, and pressed firmly into the groove with 
a knife, care being taken to keep it well pressed down as the can 
cools. Sealing-wax is bought ready prepared or can be made of two 
parts resin to one part beeswax melted together. In sealing pour wax 
over covers, filling the grooves, and break the air bubbles that rise 
with the wet finger, adding more if necessary to make air tight. 
Fruit intended for transportation should be put up in tin cans with 
the flat tops that are soldered on, as if shipped in glass the danger 
of breakage is great, and if the tin cans sealed with resin or putty 
are used bits are liable to crack off, letting the air in and so spoiling 
the fruit. 



CANNING FRUITS. 93 



There are several ways of preparing glass cans for fruit, among 
them the following : Wring a towel from cold water, double and 
wrap closely about and under the can so as to exclude the air, and 
fill ; or, put a towel in a steamer, set in the cans, and place over a 
kettle oicold water; boil the water, and when ready to fill, remove 
the cans and wrap in a towel wrung from warm water ; or wash the 
cans in tepid water and at once pour in the boiling fruit, but not too 
fast; and in any method used always pour into the center; or, 
when ready to can fruit, place the glass jars in a large pan of warm 
water on the back of the stove, in which a thick folded towel has 
been previously placed to guard against too great heat for the bot- 
- tom of cans, placing the covers on the stove in a smaller vessel of 
water, make ready the syrup in the clean porcelain-lined or granite 
ironware kettle before mentioned, put in the fruit — it is better to 
prepare only enough fruit or syrup for two or three cans at a time — 
and by the time it is done the water in the pan will be hot and the 
cans ready for use. Peaches and pears are properly cooked when 
they can be pierced with a silver fork. Use the wire spoon for lift- 
ing the larger fruits from the syrups and a silver fork to help place 
in the cans, which should be done closely and compactly but care- 
fully, filling around the sides first, turning the inside halves of the 
fruit outward. Put in as much fruit as possible and then fill up 
with the hot syrup, first tying on the little cheese-cloth strainer here- 
tofore described, which catches all loose particles of fruit and makes 
a clearer syrup. Berries should be cooked from five to fifteen min- 
utes, according to the ripeness of the fruit. When done place the 
can-filler in the can, fill to Avithin a half inch of the top with hot 
fruit, always pouring into the center, and using for 
this purpose the bright tin dipper (if a pitcher or 
cup is used it must first be heated to prevent crack- 
ing), then place on a hot platter, remove to table, wipe off upper 
parts and put on the rubber rings ; be sure these are perfect and 
•close-fitting, throwing away all that are imperfect ; let stand two or 
three minutes, or till other cans have been filled, when the fruit will 
have shrunk away a little ; fill almost to top with the hot syrup, or 
if you have none, boiling water from the teakettle will do Now 
carefully insert a silver knife into the cans, putting it in at the sides 
so as not to bruise the fruit, let it touch the bottom, and push gently 
around to remove the air bubbles, slowly pressing and withdrawing 



94 CANNING FRUITS. 



from all sides until the bubbles cease to come up ; seal at once, first 
filling to overflowing so that when the covers are screwed down the 
syrup squeezes out around the edge, taking care when canning ber- 
ries or tomatoes that none of the seeds overflow and are left on the 
rubber rings under the covers. Many insert a spoon in cans before 
filling and use the spoon to remove the air bubbles ; in canning ber- 
ries this answers very well, but the knife is better, especially for 
peaches, pears and all the larger fruits, as it is not so liable to bruise 
them and slips in easier around the sides. In the two-quart cans a 
round wooden stick may be used for this purpose, neither knife nor 
spoon being long enough. "Wipe off the cans with cloth wet in 
hot water and also inside of covers, in sealing, first screw on the 
covers as closely as possible with the hand, and as the cans cool 
turn down with the can-tightener, which always comes with the cans, 
this is a great help as it is impossible to screw covers on perfectly 
tight with the hands. Care must be taken to have the rubber ring 
show an even surface all round, for if it slips back at any point air 
will be admitted. When this is found to be the case take off" the 
cover, find a ring to fit perfectly and re-seal (it may be necessary to 
add more syrup, which must squeeze out again as cover is tightened). 
Remove the cans from the hot platter and place where no 
current of air will strike them, wringing out a towel from 
hot water on which to stand them. When other cano' are 
filled remove these to another part of table and set those filled last 
on the towel. After all are canned re-tighten the tops ; this retight- 
ening is very important and the tops must be turned down again, and 
again, the glass contracting as the fruit cools. Let the cans stand over 
night 'bottom side tip ', in the morning turn down covers again with 
the can-tightener, wrap well in paper, tying it on to exclude all light, 
label — the gummed labels that can be purchased in book form ready 
to cut and use are very convenient — and place in fruit closet or cel- 
lar. Where one can have a small room in cellar, with one or more 
windows, place shelves around the sides on which to put stone 
jars of pickles, preserves, jam, etc. It is nice to make in one corner 
a fruit closet with a door, and shelves arranged in heights to fit one 
and two-quart cans and jelly glasses ; then each shelf or part of shelf 
can be labeled with the fruit or jelly placed upon it. Have in upper part 
of door a small piece of window wire put in, or two or three augur 
holes made to admit the air. In lieu of this closet many bury cans 



CANNING FRUITS. 95 



in boxes of sand. Light injures all fruits, but especially strawber- 
ries. The place should be dry and dark and cool^ but where there is 
fresh air ; if too warm the fruit will spoil, as heat makes it fer- 
ment and dampness causes mold. Cans should be examined two or 
three days after filling, and if syrup leaks out from the rim they 
should be unsealed, the fruit thoroughly cooked and kept for jam or 
jelly, as it will have lost the delicacy of color and flavor so desirable 
in canned fruits. 

When canning a quantity of fruit, after removing the first lot of 
cans from the pan of hot water the water must be made tepid before 
setting in the remaining cans, then heated gradually to boiling again 
and kept hot until those cans are filled, repeating thus until all are 
done. If at any time there is not fruit enough to fill a can it may 
be left standing partly filled in the hot water until more fruit is 
cooked, then filled and removed like the rest to the hot platter. It 
is always best to cook a small quantity of fruit, either large or small, 
at a time (not more than one or two quarts of the large varieties, 
and two or three of berries) that it may be done evenly. If a large 
mass is cooked at once that in the bottom will be done sooner than 
that on top, and if stirred to secure uniformity its shape will be 
injured. It should also be cooked slowly to preserve the form, and 
the larger fruits after being put in the syrup must be watched very 
closely and each piece taken out and placed in can as soon as it be- 
comes tender, as some pieces will cook in much less time than oth- 
ers. In canning berries use as little water as possible, and some can 
successfully without water. To better preserve the form of fruit 
many place it in the cans raw, cover with a hot syrup and cook by 
placing in a boiler of water. The same object is attained by first 
steaming the fruit, and when done carefully removing to the boiling 
syrup a moment or two, then place in cans when steamed tender, or 
place at once in cans and fill up with hot syrup, testing by pierc- 
ing with a silver fork. The cold process has also been successfully 
tried by good housekeepers, and considering the amount of labor 
saved is certainly worth an experiment by all. Recipes are given 
for each method. To clarify sugar for canning break a pound of 
lOaf sugar in small pieces, put on the stove in porcelain-lined or 
granite ironware vessel with half pint water and well-whisked white 
of one egg. Have a cup of cold water ready and throw in a little 
when the sugar begins to rise, skim and let rise thus three times, 



9)6 CANNING FRUITS. 



skiraming until clear, then strain through a flannel bag and when 
cool bottle for use. Scientists claim that cane sugar when added to 
boiling fruit is converted to grape sugar which has far less sweeten- 
ing power thctii cane sugar, and advise housekeepers to sweeten 
fruits when brought to table for consumption instead of before can- 
ning. When dissolving sugar for syrup it should be stirred con- 
stantly to prevent scorching. A good proportion for syrup for can- 
ning is one pint sugar to one quart water, which is enough for a two- 
quart can of fruit. 

The flavor of canned peaches is improved by adding two or 
three whole peaches or dropping in the center of each can a few of 
the stones. Many leave the stone attached to one half, and others 
cook a number of stones with the frmt,then blanch as almonds and 
put meats in the cans. Peaches are sometimes canned whole, and 
the clingstone varieties are of course always put up in this way. 
Before peeling with a knife it is well to rub the fuzz off peaches with 
a coarse towel. Many parboil quinces before peeling. In preparing 
grapes it is better not to press the skins too closely, to avoid the 
formation of the disagreeable small particles, or what are called 
" clinkers,'^ in the canned fruit. As the acid is not fully developed 
until the fruit is thoroughly ripened this may be avoided also by 
canning before fully ripe. Currants are nice mixed with an equal 
weight of raspberries, and pears are improved by adding quinces or 
lemon peel. Equal quantities of quince and apple canned together 
will taste as if quince entirely. For ordinary family use quart cans 
are better for peaches and the larger fruits, two-quart cans for toma- 
toes and other vegetables, and pint cans for berries. Strawberries 
keep their color best in stone jars ; if glass cans are used for them 
they should be buried in sand. If syrup is left after canning ber- 
ries it may while thin be flavored with vinegar, boiled a moment and 
then bottled and corked for a drink mixed with ice-water ; or add 
the proportion of sugar given in recipes for jellies, allowing for the 
sugar used in canning, and make into jelly. All skimmings from 
fruits can be added to the vinegar barrel. 

If tin cans which are closed with resin or soldering are used, 
great care should be taken that none drops into the can, as a single 
drop of resin will often make the whole can bitter. By covering 
first with a piece of cloth or white paper cut to fit the top, this will 
be avoided, and wetting this with brandy or alcohol tends to help 



CANNING FRU.^rB. 97 



preserve the fruit. On opening tin cans remember to pour all the 
fruit into an earthen or glass dish. If any part is not used at the 
time, recook and return to dish, and it will keep for a day or two, 
many of the less perishable fruits longer. Or if put up in self-seal- 
ing glass cans the fruit or vegetables left over will keep a day or two 
by simply returning to the cans, screwing on the cover and setting 
in refrigerator. Wines, cider, shrubs, etc., must be bottled, well 
corked, sealed, and the bottles placed on their sides in a box of sand 
or sawdust. To can maple syrup, pour hot into cans or jugs and 
seal well. Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds and some of 
the smaller fruits, such as plums, cherries, currants, etc., harden 
when put at first into a syrup of their own weight of sugar. These 
should first be boiled tender in water, or in a very weak syrup, and 
the rest of the sugar added afterward. Fruits which become soft too 
readily and fall to pieces may be hardened a little by pouring the 
hot syrup over the fruit, or strewing part of the sugar over it and 
letting it stand awhile to draw out the juice ; or it may be skimmed 
out of the syrup after cooking a few minutes, placed in the sun two 
or three hours, and the boiling syrup poured over it afterward. As 
many recipes for canning give proportions in pounds, the table of 
weights and measures in back part of book will be found a conven- 
ient reference when scales are not at hand. A bushel of peaches 
makes about twelve or thirteen quarts, and pears almost twice as 
many as peaches ; a bushel of either blackberries, blueberries or 
raspberries makes about nineteen quarts, and strawberries about 
sixteen or seventeen. The above estimates are given from tests, but 
no really definite rule can be given, as some use more or less syrup 
in canning, and a great deal depends upon the ripeness of fruits. In 
opening a can without the can-tightener, as that answers for opening 
self-sealers if hard to open, insert the point of a thin-bladed pen- 
knife or other instrument beneath the rubber and push it in towards 
the neck, which lets in the air, and the top can then be readily un- 
screwed. When not in use the rubber rings may be left in, not on, 
cans, but the tops should not he screwed on, as the cans will become 
musty if kept closed. Keep the covers (best place also for rubbers) 
in a box or basket near the cans. Those who use tin cans advise 
throwing them away after the second year, as the fruit acids dam- 
age the tin. All cans, jars or bottles, should be carefully washed 
a-s soon -as emptied, taking care that the stoppers and coveri 



98 CANNING FRUITS. 



have tlieir share of attention. It is well to put soda or ammonia 
into the jars or bottles, fill up with water, 
and let stand an hour, putting the stoppers 
or covers into a bowl to soak in the same 
way. Then pour out and scald nicely, but 
not with boiling water, as that cracks the 
polished surface inside; wipe dry, set in 
I the sun or wind to air, and then set away 
carefully. It is often difficult to remove 
the tops of glass jars when screwed on, on 
account of the slippery nature of the glass. The holder represented 
in the cut will be understood at a glance. It clasps and holds the 
jar without danger of breaking it. 

The following table gives the time required for cooking and the 
quantity of sugar to the quart for the various kinds of fruit. By 
observing these rules and the general directions given aboye any 
fruit may be successfully canned. However, for convenience, a 
number of valuable recipes are appended. 




Time for Quant. 

b iling sugar 

fruit. to qt. 

Bartlett pears, halved 20 min 6 oz 

Blackberries 6 " 6" 

Blueberrries 5 " 5 " 

Cherries 5 " 6 " 

Gooseberries 8 " 8 " 

Peaches 8 " 4 " 

Peaches, whole 15 " 4 " 

Pie-plant, sliced 10 " 8 " 

Pine-apples, sliced 15 " 6 " 

Plums 10 " 10 " 



Time for Quant. 

boiling sugar 

fruit. to qt. 

Quinces, sliced 30 min. 10 oz. 

Raspberries 6 " 4 " 

Ripe Currants 6 " 8 " 

Siberian crab-apples 25 " 8 •' 

Small sour pears, whole.. . 30 " 8 " 

Sour apples, quartered 10 •' 6 " 

Strawberries 8 " 8" 

Tomatoes 30 " none. 

Whortleberries 5 " 5 " 

Wild Grapes 10 " 8 " 



A quart of stemmed currants or berries by measure weighs one 
and a quarter pounds. 



Canned Blackberries. (Without water.) — Place fruit in preserv- 
ing kettle, sweeten as for eating, or add sugar according to above 
table, let stand on back of stove until dissolved, then draw grad- 
ually to the front, keep at boiling point long enough to thoroughly 
cook the fruit, skimming well, and can as previously directed. All 
berries may be put up in this way, blueberries requiring less sugar 
than other varieties, and some can Peaches and Pears thus. 

Canned Gooseberries. — Put berries into wide mouthed bottles, 
cork or put on covers, and set in a vessel of cold water on the 
stove until it boils. Do not boil long enough to break the 
berries. Take usual precautions in sealing. Will keep a year 
in a dry place. Or, prepare and place in a large pan, pour boil- 
ing water over them, let stand until cold; fill jars as full as you 



CANNED FRUITS. 99 



can, pour boiling water over them, be sure it covers the berries, then 
seal. You will find berries as solid as when first gathered. 

Canned Grapes. — Pick grapes off" stems, wash in cold water 
and squeeze the pulps into an earthen dish or preserving kettle, 
throwing skins into another. Boil skins with a very little water 
until tender, and pulps until seeds separate, then strain through a 
colander (to remove seeds) into dish with the skins. Add sugar to 
taste, or half as much sugar as fruit, stew and can as other fruits. 
To can Green Grapes halve them, extract the seeds with a small 
knife, sweeten, cook as above, and can. 

Canned Peaches. (With vinegar.) — Pour boiling water over one 
peck of large clingstone peaches to remove the fuzz ; make a syrup 
of three pounds sugar and one pint vinegar, using a little water i^ 
required to cover the peaches ; cook until pretty soft, and can as 
usual. 

Canned Peaches. — Have one porcelain kettle with boiling water 
and another with a syrup made sweet enough with white sugar for 
the peaches, well skimmed, or clarified according to directions in 
preface ; pare, halve, and drop the peaches into the boiling water, let 
remain until a silver fork will pierce them, lift them out with a wire 
spoon, fill can, pour in all the boiling syrup the can will hold, and 
seal immediately. Continue in this way, preparing and sealing only 
one can at a time, until done. Or, rich proportions for the same 
recipe are seven pounds sugar and seven gills boiling water for the 
syrup, sweetening the water in which peaches are cooked, using two 
pounds sugar to three quarts water. Boil down the water in the 
first kettle with the syrup if any is left ; if not, add more sugar and 
quite a nice marmalade will result. This manner of canning peaches 
has been thoroughly tested, and is pronounced by the experienced 
the best of all methods. 

Canned Peaches. — When wanted extra nice for prize competi- 
tion, or for use on " state occasions," select with great care fruit of 
uniform size and shape a^id all perfect. Peel with a thin sharp sil- 
ver fruit knife, which does not discolor, dropping as soon as pared 
into an earthen vessel of water to prevent the air from darkening 
them. As soon as fruit enough for one can is pared put up by lay- 
ing piece by piece in the can, turning the inside of halves from 
which stones were removed, outward^ which gives a handsome ap- 
pearance, and fill up with syrup as clear as crystal, placing the 
cheese-cloth strainer over the filler. Screw on covers without the 
rubbers, stand cans in wash-boiler on slab or a board perforated with 
holes, or a folded toAvel with a towel between them (some use straw 
or hay), fill up with cold water to within two or three inches of top 
of cans, gradually bring to a boil and boil fifteen minutes. Draw to 
bac/t of stove to let steam pass ofi", roll the hand in a towel, lift cans 



LofC. 



100 CANNED FKUITS. 



out and place on hot platter. Take off covers and let out air bubbles 
with a knife, as directed in preface. The fruit will settle some and 
the contents of one or two cans will be needed to fill up the others ; 
prepare for this purpose nearly a fourth more cans. Fill up, put on 
rubbers, seal and put away according to previous directions. The 
same process may be used for canning all kinds of fruit. 

Canned Peaches. — Prepare peaches and weigh out half a pound 
best loaf sugar to each pound fruit. Sprinkle a little sugar in a deep 
earthen bowl, put in a layer of peaches, then one of sugar, and so 
alternate until closely packed, covering top with sugar; cover 
lightly and let stand ten or twelve hours. Drain juice off into pre- 
serving kettle, let come to a boil, put in peaches, and as fast as 
pieces swell sufficiently take out with silver fork and place in air- 
tight glass jar. When filled pour the Doiling syrup over, filling to 
top and seal at once. Peaches and other fruits prepared in this way 
have been kept three or four years. 

Canned Peaches. (Cold) — Pare and halve peaches and pack 
closely as possible in cans without sugar, and pour in enough cold 
water to fill to brim. Let stand long enough for water to soak into 
all crevices — six hours or so — then let out air bubbles with a silver 
knife, fill up again with cold water and seal. Canned thus, peaches 
retain all their freshness and flavor. A cold syrup may be used 
instead of water if preferred, but peaches taste most natural without 
sweetening. Can pears same way. 

Canned Peaches. (Steamed.)— After peeling, seed and place in 
a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, first laying a cloth in bot- 
tom of steamer ; fill about half full of fruit, cover tightly, make a 
syrup in a porcelain kettle for fruit alone, let the fruit steam until it 
can be easily pierced with a silver fork, drop gently for a moment 
into the hot syrup, place in the cans, fill, cover, and seal. The above 
recipe is for canning a few at a time. This recipe, applies equally 
well to pears. 

Canned Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed ; make a syrup of a 
pint granulated sugar to a quart water (enough for two quart-cans) 
place on stove in porcelain kettle and when syrup boils, skim, and 
drop in enough fruit (two quarts halved peaches) for a one-quart 
can ; watch closely, test and can as in general directions. Add more 
peaches to the hot syrup for next can, and repeat the operation. If 
there are more peaches than will fill the can, place them in another 
can and keep hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. 
Apples may be canned in the same manner. 

Canned Pears. — Prepare and can precisely like peaches in pre- 
ceding recipes except that they require longer cooking. When done 
they are easily pierced with a silver fork. Some add a half pint 
peeled and quartered quinces to every two quarts halved pears ; cook 



CANNED FRUITS. 101 



quinces fifteen minutes before adding pears. More quinces may be 
added, but the above is an excellent proportion for Pears With 
Quinces. 

Canned Pie Plant. — Cut pic plant in pieces two inches long, 
put over a slow fire with its weight in sugar ; when sugar is dis- 
solved let boil slowly until clear, but do not cook long enough to 
become dark colored. Put up in air-tight cans. 

Canned Pie Plant. (Cold) — Skin and cut as for pie, fill 
glass cans full as possible, shaking down while packing, then fill up 
with pure fresh cold water, let stand a little while and expel the air, 
add more water, then screw on covers. No cooking or heating. Will 
keep perfectly., and fruit will be as nice and fresh when opened as if 
just brought from garden. 

Canned Phie-apple. — Peel and slice, or pick to pieces with 
silver fork, make syrup in proportion of three-fourths pound 
best white granulated sugar and one cup water to each pound fruit, 
boil five minutes, skim or strain, add the fruit and let it boil (cook- 
ing long discolors it) ; have can hot, fill and seal up as soon as pos- 
sible. Or, peel and grate on coarse grater, rejecting cores ; using 
above proportions, put in an earthen vessel sprinkled with sugar, 
first a layer of fruit, then a layer of sugar, thus alternating until all 
is used. Cover, let stand overnight, and in the morning bring to a 
boil, boil one minute and can immediately. 

Canned Pine-apple. — Pare and be careful to cut out the eyes, 
chop fine, weigh, and add to it same weight of sugar ; mix thor- 
oughly, let stand twenty-four hours and (without cooking) fill cans 
full and seal tight. Look at them in about two weeks, and if there 
are signs of working, pour into a kettle, heat through and put back 
into cans. 

Canned Phims. — Wash and put whole into a syrup made in 
the proportion of a pint water and a pound sugar to every two 
pounds fruit ; boil eight minutes, can, and seal immediately. If 
pricked with a fork before placing in syrup they will be less liable 
to burst. Cherries, damsons, and green gages are canned in same 
way. The large white plums must be skinned by using the dipping 
process as for peaches. 

Canned Plums. — Wipe good sound fruit Avith a cloth and place 
carefully in cans ; pour boiling hot wiiter over them and seal Avhile 
hot. Grapes put up in same way are nice for pies. 

Canned Quinces. — Pare and quarter the fruit, and take out all 
the cores and the hard place around them. Boil the fruit in clear 
water until tender, then spread on towels to dry. For one pound 
fruit allow half pound sugar and one pint water for three pounds 
sugar. When syrup is boiling hot put in fruit, and let it cook very 



102i CANNED VEGETABLES. 



slowly ; or, set back on the stove bo that it hardly cooks at all, and 
keep on for an hour or more, if you can without its cooking to 
pieces — as the longer it cooks, the brighter red color it will be. Put 
it in jars and strain the syrup over it, as with other fruits. Can 
Apples or Pears at same time and add to them when first put on a 
half pint quinces (and juice) cooked in syrup as above half an hour. 

Canned Strawberries. — Fill quart can with berries, add water 
till full, pour it out, measure and for every ten cans, take eleven 
measures water ; add three pounds of sugar and cook ten minutes, 
Fill jars with fruit, pour nearly full with above syrup and cook in 
boiler as directed in third receipt of Canned Peaches ; After water 
begins to boil cook nine minutes, remove boiler from fire, take out 
each can as directed, fill full with the hot syrup, fasten air tight, set 
back in boiler till water is cold, then refasten perfectly tight and 
put away. Peaches or any fruit canned same. 



Caiming Vegetables. 



All vegetables intended for canning should be perfectly fresh — 
especially is this true of corn — and of the best quality. To prepare 
corn, cut with a sharp knife through the center of every row of 
grains, and cut off the outer edge ; then with the back of the blade 
push out the yellow eye, with the rich, creamy center of the grain, 
leaving the hull on the cob. Or, simply cut off with a knife, being 
careful not to cut too close to the cob, and scrape down the cob 
with the back of the knife to get all the rich milk. Remove the 
skins from tomatoes in the usual way, by covering with boiling hot 
water, but do not let them stand in the water but a moment or two 
or they will be softened more or less, and if to be canned whole 
their shape will be injured. A bushel of tomatoes makes about 
twenty quarts. Peas and beans should be shelled just iefore can- 
ning. String-beans are prepared as for ordinary cooking. The very 
complete directions given in "Canning Fruit" preface for preparing, 
filling, sealing and putting away cans should be consulted and fol- 
lowed in canning vegetables. Especial care should be taken to ex- 
clude the light from tomatoes, as it causes the formation of citric 
acid, which no amount of sugar will sweeten. For this reason many 
prefer earthen or tin cans for tomatoes, but they can be put up suc- 
cessfully in glass, when they should be buried in sand or oats ; or 
simply wrapped in paper and set away in a box or cupboard in a 



CANNED VEGETABLES. 103 



dry, cool cellar they keep perfectly. When put up in tin all vegeta- 
bles must be turned out as soon as the can is opened. If the whole 
is not used the remainder may be kept a day or two by salting 
slightly and placing in refrigerator. If put up in glass set away in 
can. 



Canned Beans. — Take Lima, butter or caseknife beans, cook as 
for the table, boiling one hour ; season with pepper and salt and fill 
jars quite full, seal carefully as directed, and they will keep tlie 
year round^ 

Canned Corn. — Dissolve an ounce tartaric acid in half cup water 
and take one tablespoon to two quarts sweet corn ; cook, and while 
boiling fill the cans. When used turn into a colander, rinse with 
cold water, add a little soda and sugar while cooking, and season 
with butter, pepper and salt. 

Canned Corn. — Cut sweet corn from cob, put a handful or two 
into the can, then a pinch of salt, also a pinch of sugar ; take a 
potato masher or anj thing else convenient that will go in the can, 
and press corn down as close as possible, then repeat putting in 
corn, salt and sugar as before until the can is full ; seal up and set 
away with other fruit. Be sure and not put in any more salt than 
is required for seasoning when cooked. To cook it, simply turn from 
the bottle and cook as you would fresh corn. Or cut the corn from 
cob, pack in glass cans, pound the corn as hard as possible without 
breaking cans ; screw on top but not tight. Put on boiler with cold 
water and proceed as in third recipe for peaches. After putting on 
rubbers, screw tight, put back into the water, set the boiler off the 
stove ; let the cans stand till morning, take out, tighten the covers, 
and keep in a dark place. Can Peas and Beans same way. 

Canned Corn. — Pick sweet corn when milk-ripe,or if bought,nave 
as fresh as possible ; cut from the cob and scrape to get the juice, 
fill tin cans and seal air-tight, surround with straw to prevent strik- 
ing against each other, and put into a boiler over the fire with 
enough cold water to cover. Heat the water gradually and when 
they have boiled an hour and a half, puncture the tops of the cans 
to alloSv the escape of gasses, then seal them immediately while they 
are still hot. Continue to boil them for two hours and a half. In 
packing the cut corn in the can the liberated milk and juices sur- 
round the kernels, forming a liquid in which they are cooked. Peas 
and Beans are canned same way. 

Canned Cor7i and Tomatoes. — Scald,peel and slice tomatoes, (not 
too ripe) in the proportion of two-thirds tomatoes to one-third corn ; 
put on in a porcelain kettle, let boil half an hour, and can immedi- 



104 CANNED VEGETABLES. 



ately in tin or glass (if glass keep in the dark). Some take equal 
parts of corn and tomatoes, preparing them as above. Others, after 
cutting the corn from the cob, cook half an hour in custard kettle ; 
prepare the tomatoes as above, cooking in a separate kettle twenty- 
minutes, adding the corn in the proportion of one-third corn to two- 
thirds tomatoes, mixing well until they boil up once ; then can as 
in general directions. 

Canned FumpMn. — Peel, scrape the pulp and seeds, cut in 
small pieces, put in a close-fitting steamer and steam two hours ; 
then put in a kettle ; to every quart add two ounces sugar, boil five 
minutes and can. Or, after peeling and removing seeds cut into 

Eieces three or four inches square, stand in oven on the rind and 
ake until done, when it Avill peel out of the shell easily. Then 
mash and can while hot, sealing as fruit. Cannot be told from 
fresh. 

Canned String-Beans. — String fresh string-beans, break in sev- 
eral pieces, cook in boiling water ten minutes, and can like tomatoes. 

Canned Succotash. — Cook Lima beans and corn as for eating in 
the proportion liked, either half and half, or with a less quantity of 
beans, and can. 

Canned Tomatoes. — The tomatoes must be entirely fresh and 
not over-ripe ; pour over them boiling water, let stand a few minutes, 
drain off, remove the skins, and slice in small pieces into a stone 
jar, cutting out all the hard or defective portions ; some add a little 
salt ; cook for half an hour, or as for eating, in their own juice, 
skimming off the scum which rises, and stirring with a wooden 
spoon or paddle ; can and seal as in general directions ; put up in 
glass, wrap in paper and keep in dark place. Tin or stone cans may 
be used. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Take ripe, round, firm tomatoes, freshly 
gathered and not too large to go into the mouth of cans. Prepare 
only enough at one time to fill one or two cans and drop them at 
once into the preserving kettle in which should be ready some toma- 
toes cut fine. Boil until heated through, then put into cans, filling 
up with the cut tomatoes in which they were cooked and seal. 

Canned Tomatoes. — Skin tomatoes as usual, place on sieve to 
drain and pack as solidly as possible in cans ; then set cans in boiler 
of cold water, heat up and boil half an hour, and fill and seal as in 
third recipe for peaches. 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 105 



CATSUPS A.'MD SAUCES. 



These require perfect fruit and must always be cooked in gran- 
ite or iron ware, and never in brass. Bottle in glass or stone and 
never in tin. Keep in the dark, and the cooler the better, provided 
^-v they do not freeze. A leathery mold on the 
top is not an indication of injury. Remove 
it carefully and the catsup will not suffer in 
flavor. To prevent it from forming, do not quite fill can and then 
pour in hot vinegar to complete filling. When spoiled, white 
specks of mold appear all through the body of the catsup. After 
opening a can and using a part, if the rest is not likely to be used 
soon, it is well to scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Prepare all 
sauces in a clean bright pan, which should be set in hot water. If 
the sauce is drawn butter these points are especially necessary ; or 
the custard kettle will be found convenient, as the stock or other 
foundation may first be heated quickly by putting the inner kettle 
on the stove, and when other ingredients are added and there is 
danger of burning, place again in the outer kettle made ready with 
boiling water. Butter and those sauces containing eggs should 
never boil. In making catsup, instead of boiling, some sprinkle the 
tomatoes with salt and let them stand overnight, then strain and add 
spices,etc.,and a little sugar. Wooden spoons or paddles must be used 
for stirring. A set of paddles of different 
sizes will be found convenient for stir-( 
ring sauces gravies, mushes, and many 
other dishes, and Avill not scratch or mar sp^tuia. 

the ketttle or pan. When necessary to scrape down the sides of kettle 



106 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 




in which catsup or other mixtures of like character are being cooked, 
an artist's spatula will be found the best utensil and should be pro- 
vided in every kitchen rather than destroy the temper of sharpened 
knives by heat. 

The pulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and 
wonderfully retains the 
flavor, notwithstanding 
all the ingredients added. 
Use a fine wire sieve or 
strainer in their prepara- 

tion the extension ExtenBlon strainer. 

strainer is the most convenient — and a good rule is to allow for every 
quart of the juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of 
cinnamon, one teaspoon each whole cloves and pepper corns ; boil 
all down one-third, then skim out spices, add sugar, boil till thick, 
reduce to a proper consistency with vinegar, and bottle for use. 
This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and all kinds of berries. 

The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of 
the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of 
the cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the va- 
rious viands they are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in 
order that they may harmonize and blend with them perfectly, and 
in serving do not pour over but around the meat. Sauces should 
possess a decided character, and whether sharp or sweet, savoury or 
plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner, al- 
though, of course, not so much ilavored as to make them too piquant 
on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, 
generally speaking, should scarcely be so thick as white sauces, and 
it is well to bear in mind that when intended to mask the various 
dishes of poultry or meat, they should be of a sufficient consistency 
to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over which they are poured. 
For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned flour may be 
properly employed. The caramel coloring answers very well for 
sauces and gravies, but when they can be made to look brown by 
using browned flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far 
preferable. As, however, in cooking so much depends upon appear- 
ance, perhaps it would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use 
the caramel. When no browning is at hand to heighten the color of 
sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron spoon over a sharp fire ; 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 107 




when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce or gravy quite hot. 
Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as it would 
impart a very disagreeable flavor. 

Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is 
all the more necessity for the cook to see to tiiis point, as from their 
being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to 
cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. The hain marie 
will be found almost indispensable for this purpose. This is a large 
open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling) water at the back of 
the stove or range or in some warm place. In this several stew- 
pans, or large tin cups with covers and hand- 
les, are fitted which are intended to hold all 
the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot until 
the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. When 
a dinner is delayed, there is no better way of ' 
keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their '^ain Mane. 
flavor. If a hain marie is not among the cooking utensils a large 
dripping-pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or 
lay two or three bricks on back of stove or range on which to set 
sauces, vegetables, etc., until ready to serve. 

Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part 
should be well stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to 
them, and must never be allowed to boil, as they would instantly 
curdle. White pepper is a much nicer seasoning than black for 
sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color and has not so 
pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soups, sauces and 
gravies is prepared as follows : Bring butter just to the boiling 
point in a small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until 
well cooked. This, when not cooked brown, is "White Roux," and 
when browned, "Brown Roux." Thin this with a part of the soup, 
sauce or gravy, and add it to the whole, stirring thoroughly. The 
flour may be browned before using if intended for brown gravies or 
sauces. A richer thickening is made in the proportion of the yolks 
of three eggs to eight tablespoons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, 
add the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the 
sauce it must be stirred during the whole time or the eggs will cur- 
dle, and the mixture should only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is 
lumpy after adding thickening rub again through a sieve. Melted 
butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in place of oil in all 



108 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 




recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be thick- 
ened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc. ; the 
latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. 
Milk or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter 
is better, giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. When any 
green coloring is used if lemon juice is to be added it should not be 
put in until just before sending to table. Any flavored vinegar pre- 
lerred may be used instead of the plain. An English salt sold by 
most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and all cooking, giving a 
more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste 
found so objectionable in most salt. AVhere a 
sieve is to be used in making sauces, use the 
puree nieve. 

Herbs for seasoning are usually dried dur- 
ing the summer. The best kinds are sage, thyme, 
sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay leaves, 
cloves, mace, celery seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven 
first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a 
sunny spot in the yard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather 
and dry as follows : Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June 
and July, just before flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, 
marjoram and savory in July and August; basil and sage in August 
and September ; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and 
dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by keeping 
them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. Mint, 
when used in recipes, usually means "spearmint" or "green mint," 
though pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The 
young leaves of from one to six inches in length are the parts used. 
It grows on any good garden soil, but comes forward earlier in a 
warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by cuttings or dividing the 
roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific, and ought to find a 
place in every garden. Those who have conservatories should keep 
a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would ap- 
pear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the 
stalks just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some 
dry, shady place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in 
paper bags and keep in a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a 
very nice addition to the flavoring of sauces, and may be used in- 
stead of the fresh celery when the latter is out of season. Pickled 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 109 



nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given under Pickles, will be 
found a good substitute for capers and is often used. Gherkins, 
(small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead 
of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter 
is used in the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or vinegar 
is to be added, always make it with water, never with milk, as the 
combination of the latter with the acid would be most unwhole- 
some. 

The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with 
vinegar, or still more, with hoiling water, materially checks the 
development of those peculiar principles on which its pungency or 
strength almost entirely depends, and cold water may cause it to 
ferment. It should therefore be mixed with water that has been 
boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup with a 
small pinch of salt and mix with it very gradually sufficient water 
to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and 
mix well, rubbing the lumps down with the back of a spoon until 
smooth, and do not add flavoring until this paste is made. Mustard 
is much better freshly made, and only a small quantity should be 
mixed at once. 



Barberry Catsup. — Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, 
four quarts cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four 
small onions, all stewed with a quart of wa+er and strained. Mix 
these ingredients with the barberries and add half cup vinegar, 
three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar, one dessert-spoon each 
ground clove and ground allspice, two tablespoons each black pep- 
per and celery seed, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each 
cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil 
one minute ; if too thick add vinegar or water. With the quantities 
given about three quarts of catsup can be made. 

Cherry Catsup. — One pint pure cherry juice, half pound sugar, 
teaspoon each ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup 
and bottle. 

Cucumber Catsup. — Peel, seed and grate on coarse grater, one 
dozen large green cucumbers ; put the pulp in a large towel and 
wring out all moisture that can be extracted ; peel and grate or chop 
fine four large onions and mix with the grated cucumber, adding 
one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon white pepper, tablespocn 
salt, half pint salad oil or American Cooking Oil, and sufficient vin- 
egar to make as thin as ordinary catsup, "\yhen all are thoroughly 



110 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in top 
of each jar and seal air tight; or peel and chop three dozen cucum- 
bers and eighteen onions very fine; sprinkle over them three-fourths 
pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight ; add 
a cup mustard seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and 
cover with good cider vinegar. 

Currant Catsup. — Take juice of five pounds of currants, three 
pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, two tablespoons ground cinnamon, 
one each of cloves, allspice and black pepper, one grated nutmeg 
and a pinch of salt. . Cook one-half hour. 

Elderberry Catsup. — Pick from the stalk as many ripe elder- 
berries as are wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough 
strong vinegar to cover them, bake in a hot oven three hours and 
strain while hot. Boil the liquor thus obtained with cloves, mace, 
peppercorns and four or five shallots, enough to give a considerable 
flavor ; taste, and when flavored as liked, put in one-half pound of 
the best anchovies to every quart of liquor; stir and boil only until 
dissolved ; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing by dip- 
ping corks in hot sealing-wax. 

Grape Catsup. — Boil and strain five pounds grapes through a col- 
ander, add to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds sugar, 
one tablespoon each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper and 
half tablespoon salt. Boil again until a little thick, bottle and seal. 

Lemon Catsup. — One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a 
pound of ground mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne 
and allspice, one gallon of cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, 
fifteen large lemons ; slice the lemons, add the other ingredients, let 
simmer from twenty to thirty minutes, place in a covered jar, stir 
every day for seven or eight weeks, strain, bottle, cork and seal. 

Liver Catsup. — Rub a very fresh beef liver thoroughly with 
rolled salt and place it in a vessel that will not crush it ; turn and 
rub thoroughly for ten days, then mince into small dice and boil in 
a gallon of water closely covered until reduced to three quarts ; 
strain through a sieve and let settle till next day ; add one ounce 
each ginger and allspice and two ounces whole black pepper, and 
boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle and 
keep well corked. 

• Oyster Catsup. — Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient 
to fill pint measure ; save the liquor and scald the oysters in it with 
one pint good cider, strain the oysters and put them in a mortar 
with a tablespoon salt, one drachm cayenne, and two drachms 
pounded mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add 
to it the liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it again five min- 
utes, and skim well ; rub the whole through a sieve and when cold, 
bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed. 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. Ill 



Pepper Catsup Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three 

quarts vinegar, three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions 
and one clove garlic. Boil until soft, and strain through a sieve. 
Then add two tablespoons each of black pepper, allspice, mace, 
cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes ; then bottle. Some add 
one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar. 

Plum Catsup. — To three pounds fruit take one and three-fourths 
pounds sugar, one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon and pepper, 
and a very little salt ; scald and put plums through the sieve ; then 
add sugar and spices and boil to right consistency. Some add a 
gill of vinegar. 

Tomato Catsup. — Stew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced 
tomatoes, add two tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper 
and quarter tablespoon cayenne, more or less as liked, cup of brown 
sugar and pint vinegar. Boil to the consistency of cream, watching 
carefully to prevent burning, then set on back of stove and add half 
a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a pint of currant jel- 
ly, mixing thoroughly ; can or bottle while hot. Horse-radish bot- 
tles or any small, wide-mouthed bottles are best for this purpose ; 
seal with corks and dip in sealing wax. This will keep two years. 

Walnut Catsup. — Procure one hundred walnuts at the time 
when you can run a pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them 
into ajar with a handful salt and one quart vinegar; let them stand 
eight days, stirring every day, then drain the liquor off them, add 
one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, and whole black 
peppers, small piece horse-radish, twenty shallots, or onions, and one- 
fourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour. It may be strained 
or not as preferred, and if required a little more vinegar can be 
added according to taste. Bottle and seal. 



Almond Sauce. — Blanch and pound sweet almonds and add 
enough white stock to make it of the consistency of thickened 
gravy. Pour over boiled mutton-chops. 

Anchovy Sauce.. — Bone four anchovies and pound them in a 
jiortar to a paste with one ounce butter. Melt a half pint butter and 
when hot stir in the pounded anchovies and cayenne to taste, sim- 
mer three or four minutes and if liked add a few drops of lemon 
juice. A quicker and easier way of making this sauce is to stir one 
and one-half tablespoons anchovy essence into one-half pint drawn 
butter, add a little lemon juice and seasoning to taste; boil one min- 
ute and serve. Less of the essence may be used if thought too 
strong. Serve with baked fish. 

Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and quarter tart apples, throwing into 
cold water until all are pared, to preserve their whiteness ; put them 



112 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



in a saucepan Avith sufficient Avater to moisten them and boil till 
soft enough to pulp ; beat them, adding a small piece butter, and 
some like a little sugar and nutmeg. Serve with roast pork, goose, 
or duck. May be colored, if desired, with beet root, cochineal, or a 
little spinach juice. To make Broivn Ajyj^^e Sauce., cook the apples 
in half pint brown gravy and finish as above, leaving out sugar, and 
seasoning with cayenne instead of nutmeg. 

Asparagus Sauce. — Break a bundle of green asparagus in the 
tender part, wash well and put into boiling salt water, to render 
green ; when tender take out, put into cold water and drain on a 
cloth until all moisture is absorbed. Put one tablespoon fresh but- 
ter in a saucepan with a small bunch parsley and three or four green 
onions ; lay in the asparagus and fry the whole over a sharp fire five 
minutes ; add salt, a large lump sugar and four tablespoons Avhite 
stock and simmer another five minutes ; rub all through a sieve and 
if not a good color use a little spinach coloring. This sauce should 
be rather sweet. 

Bread Sauce. — Put giblets of a fowl with the neck and legs in a 
saucepan with one onion, twelve whole peppers, one blade mace, salt 
to taste, and rather more than a pint water ; let simmer one hour, 
strain the liquor over three-fourths pound bread crumbs, cover and 
leave one hour where it will keep warm, then beat up with a fork 
until nice and smooth ; boil three or four minutes, stirring until 
rather thick, add three tablespoons melted butter or cream, and send 
to table hot with roast fowl or game. A nice way of serving is to fry 
coarse crumbs a light brown in tablespoon very hot butter, stir over 
hot fire two minutes without burning. Cover the breasts of roasted 
birds with these, and serve the sauce poured around the birds, or in 
a gravy dish. Add the chopped giblets for Giblet Sauce. Another 
good bread sauce can be made by placing a sliced onion and six 
peppercorns in a half pint milk over boiling water until onion is per- 
fectly soft : strain it over a half pint grated bread crumbs without 
crust and leave it covered for an hour ; beat it smooth, add pinch of 
salt and two tablespoons butter rubbed in a little flour ; add enough 
sweet cream or milk to make it the proper consistency and boil a few 
minutes. It must be thin enough to pour. 

Caper Sauce. — To a pint drawn butter sauce add three table^ 
spoons capers, either whole or chopped once or twice ; a hard 
boiled egg chopped fine may be added, or just after taking from fire 
stir in yolk of an egg beaten with teaspoon water. If to be served 
with fish flavor with teaspoon each lemon juice and essence of 
anchovy. Or chop tAvo tablespoons capers and add them to a half 
pint drawn butter, with piece of lemon, teaspoon Worcestershire 
sauce and a pinch cayenne ; put on fire and simmer a few minutes ; 
mix a teaspoon flour with a very little cold water and add to sauce. 
Mutton Caper _ Sauce is made as folloAvs : Fifteen minutes before 



\ 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 113 



the mutton is done melt two tablespoons butter in a saucepan, stir 
into it one tablespoon flour ; when thoroughly mixed add half a pint 
of the liquor in which the mutton is boiling, and half a pint of milk, 
season with pepper and salt, cook a few minutes, and just before 
serving (in order that their color may not be lost by standing) add 
two heaped tablespoons capers. Never let sauce boil after adding 
capers. 

Celery Sauce. — Cut the tender parts of a head ofcelery very fine. 
Pour on water enough to cover them, cover the sauce pan and set 
where it will simmer one hour ; mix two tablespoons flour and four 
of ".jutter ; when the celery has boiled one hour add to it the butter 
and flour, one pint milk or cream, season to taste, boil up once and 
serve with roast duck, or roast or boiled fowl. 

Chestnut Sauce. — Take one half pound shelled chestnuts, and 
put them into boiling water for a few minutes ; throw into cold 
water, take off thin inside skin and put them into a saucepan with 
half pint white stock and two strips lemon peel, or a teaspoon juice, 
and let them simmer an hour and a half, or until chestnuts are 
quite tender. Put the whole through a hair sieve with a wooden 
spoon, add seasoning of cayenne and a gill of cream; let it just sim- 
mer, but not boil, and keep stirring all the time. Serve very hot 
and quickly. If milk is used instead of cream, two teaspoons but- 
ter and one of flour will be required ; melt butter, stir in flour, and 
when smooth add to the mixture. If sauce is not perfectly smooth 
rub again through a sieve. To make Brown Chestnut Sauce take 
same proportions, using any soup stock, or the broth from the fowl, 
if boiled, stirring butter and flour over the fire until browned or add- 
ding a teaspoon caramel coloring. Serve either of the above sauces 
with roast turkey or other roast or boiled fowl. 

Crab Sauce. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat away 
from the shell, and cut into small square pieces. Make a half pint 
drawn butter, put in the fish and season with salt, pounded mace 
and cayenne to taste ; let it gradually warm through and simmer 
two minutes. It should not boil. Almost equals lobster sauce and 
served the same. 

This latter sauce is nice prepared with pint Hollandaise Sauce 
to which is added the claw of a boiled lobster, cut in small dice, 
boiled a few moments and served. 

Currant Sauce. — Half an hour before venison is done pick orer 
an ounce of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire 
in half pint hot water and boil them fifteen minutes ; then add two 
heaping tablespoons bread crumbs, one of butter, a palatable seas- 
oning of salt and pepper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce 
gently ; just before serving it add a tablespoon currant jelly beaten 
with a cup water or stock, or gravy from the game. Serve with 
venison or other game. 



114 CATSUPS AND SAUCES, 



Currant Jelly Sauce. — Three tablespoons butter, one onion, 
one bay leaf, one sprig celery, two tablespoons vinegar, half cup cur- 
rant jelly, one tablespoon flour, one pint stock, seasoning. Brown 
butter and onion, add flour and herbs, then the stock, and simmer 
twenty minutes. Strain, skim off" the fat, add the jelly and stir 
over the fire until melted ; serve with game. 

Curry Sauce. — One tablespoon each butter and flour, one tea- 
spoon curry powder, one large slice of onion, one large cup stock, 
salt and pepper to taste. Cut the onion fine and brown in the but- 
ter, add the flour and curry powder, stir one minute, add the stock 
and season to taste. Simmer five minutes, strain and serve. Good 
with a boil or saute of fish or meat. 

Drawn Butter Sauce. — Rub two tablespoons butter into half a 
tablespoon flour, beating to a cream,adding,if needed,a little salt ; pour 
on it half a pint boiling water or milk, stirring it one way rapidly, 
and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boiling makes it oily and 
unfit for use. The boiling may be prevented by cooking in the cus- 
tard kettle as heretofore suggested, or placing the saucepan in a 
larger one of boiling water, covering and 
shaking frequently until it reaches the boilings 
point. Now pass through a sieve and stir in a 
tablespoon butter cut in pieces. If necessary 
to reheat, return to custard kettle. This makes 
one pint sauce. If liked acid, a few drops vin- 
egar or lemon juice may be added just before _________ 

serving. In the thickening of all sauces, let it ~ custard"K^Hi^ 

be remembered that butter and flour should be well cooked together 
before the sauce is added, to prevent the flour from tasting uncooked. 
In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be used to 
cook the flour, adding the remainder cut in pieces after the eauce is 
taken from the fire. This preserves its flavor. An excellent Pickle 
Sauce is made by adding two tablespoons finely chopped pickled 
cucumbers to drawn butter sauce prepared as above. Or, make with 
cream and add boiled cauliflowers cut with vegetable cutter, for 
Cauliiiower Sauce, excellent with boiled fowl. Another good sauce 
for fowl is the Lemon Sauce, made by adding to the drawn butter 
sauce the chopped inside of a lemon (without the seeds) and the 
liver of the fowl chopped fine. A great variety of sauces which are 
excellent to eat with fish, poultry or boiled meats can be made with 
the drawn butter sauce by adding different herbs, such as parsley, 
mint or sweet marjoram. First throw them into boiling water, cut 
fine, and they are ready to be added, when serve immediately with 
tAvo hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. This makes a nice sauce to serve 
with baked fish. The chopped inside of a lemon without the seeds, 
to which the chicken liver has been added, makes a good sauce for 
boiled chicken. 




CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 115 

Eg Sauce. — Put one cup each water and milk on fire to scald, 
and wl 3n hot stir in tablespoon flour, previously mixed smooth 
with a very little cold water, add three eggs well beaten and strained, 
season with salt and peppei, two tablespoons butter and a little white 
vinegar ; do not let boil after eggs are put in ; boil four eggs hard, 
slice and lay over the dish ; a little nutmeg and a few thin slices of 
lemon are sometimes added ; pour over sauce, and serve with boiled 
fish. Or, take yolks of two eggs boiled hard and mash with a table- 
spoon mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoons vinegar 
and three of salad oil. A tablespoon of catsup improves this for 
some. Very nice for boiled fish. Or, to a pint drawn butter sauce, 
without herbs, add four hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. 

Gooseberry Sauce. — Boil one pint green gooseberries ia water 
until quite tender ; strain them, and rub them through a sieve. Put 
into a saucepan three tablespoons French White Sauce, or veal 
gravy will do, with two tablespoons butter and seasoning of salt, 
pepper and grated nutmeg to taste ; add the pulp from the goose- 
berries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through. A little 
pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons considered 
an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme 
acidity of the unripe fruit. Serve with boiled mackerel. 

Hollandaise Sauce. — One-half cup broth, milk or water, cup 
butter, yolks of four eggs, juice of one lemon, a dozen pepper-corns, 
nutmeg and salt. Boil the broth with the peppercorns, a scrap of 
broken nutmeg and level teaspoon salt. When flavored strain the 
broth into another saucepan or tin cup. Put in two-thirds of the 
butter and the four yolks and beat it with a fork over the fire until it 
thickens like cream. Then take it off and beat in the rest of the 
butter in little bits, beating until all is melted. Then squeeze in the 
lemon juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. The sauce must never 
fairly l)oil, only just begin to. It -should be cooked in cup set in 
boiling water. There is a moment, about a minute after set to cook, 
that the sauce is at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After 
that a separation or curdling takes place, not very plain to the eye, 
but that makes the sauce thin and spoils it. Serve with fish, cauli- 
flower, asparagus, or any vegetable. It is golden yellow, shining 
and smooth, just thick enough to be taken up on the point of a 
knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for vegetable dressing. 

Horse-radish Sauce. — Grate very fine a root of horse-radish, 
mix two tablespoons of it with a teaspoon salt and four tablespoons 
cream, stir briskly and add by degrees a fourth tablespoon vinegar. 
Or, take four tablespoons horse-radish and mix well with one table- 
spoon each sugar and salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and two tea- 
spoons made mustard, with sufficient vinegar to give it the consis- 
tency of cream. Especially nice with corned beef, and acceptable 
with almost any meat. It is sometimes prepared by adding to two 



116 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



tablespoons grated horse-radish one dessert-spoon olive-oil (o melted 
butter or cream), and one of made mustard. To prepare Horse- 
radish for Winter, in the fall mix the quantity wanted in the fol- 
lowing proportions : A coffee-cup grated horse-radish, two table- 
spoons white sugar, half teaspoon salt, and a pint and a half cold 
vinegar: Bottle and seal. 

Italian Sauce. — One cup brown sauce (roast meat gravy, 
strained and skimmed), one teaspoon minced onion, two each of 
minced mushrooms and parsley, juice of one lemon, cayenne and 
salt to taste. Pour half the juice from the can of mushrooms into 
the brown sauce, add the other ingredients and simmer together fif- 
teen minutes. Nice with fried trout or other fish. If fresh mush- 
rooms are used they should not stand after chopping or they will 
turn black. 

Indian Chetney Sauce. — Chop eight ounces sharp sour apples, 
pared, cored and cut in small square pieces, and add to them eight 
ounces each tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and stoned raisins, four ounces 
each cayenne and powdered ginger, two ounces each garlic and shal- 
lots, three quarts vinegar, one quart lemon juice; mix the whole 
Avell together, and put in a well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm 
place, and stir every day for a month, taking care to put on the lid 
after this operation ; strain, but do not squeeze it dry ; store it away 
in clean jars or bottles for use, and the liquor will serve as an ex- 
cellent sauce for meat or fish. Some prefer to cook the apples in 
the vinegar before adding other ingredients. 

Leamington Sauce. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts 
as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily 
bruised before they become hard and shelled. Pound them in a 
mortar to a pulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain 
thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them 
about. Press out the juice, and to each quart walnut-liquor allow 
three quarts vinegar, one pint soy, one ounce cayenne, tow ounces 
shallots, three-fourth ounce garlic, and half pint cooking wine. 
Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well 
together, and store away for use in small bottles. The corks should 
be well sealed. This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are 
obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July. The soy 
spoken of above is a sauce frequently made use of for fish and is 
manufactured by both the Japanese and Chinese, that of the for- 
mer being the best. This article is sometimes adulterated but when 
genuine it is of an agreeable flavor, thick, and of a clear brown 
color. 

Lemon Sauce. — Put three-fourths pint cream into a very clean 
saucepan (a lined one is best), with one lemon-peel, one-half teaspoon 
whole white pepper, and a sprig of lemon thyme, and let these infuse 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. HI 



for hair ;in hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until 
there is a nice flavor of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of 
three tablespoons of butter and one of flour; stir this well in, and 
put in juice of one lemon at the moment of serving; mix one cup 
white stock with the cream, and add a little salt. This sauce should 
not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together. Milk may 
be used instead of cream, with another tablespoon flour. An excel- 
lent sauce for fowls, fricassees, etc. The recipe makes enough for two 
fowls. Or, a simple methocl is to cut three slices lemon into very 
small dice, add to drawn butter, let boil up once and serve. 

Liver and Lemon Sauce. — "Wash the liver of a fowl and let it 
boil a few minutes ; peel one lemon very thin, reserve the white part 
and pips and cut it into very small slices ; mince the liver and a 
small quantity of the lemon rind very fine ; add these ingredients to 
a half pint smoothly made drawn butter, season with a little salt, 
put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil 
lest the butter should oil. Serve with poultry. 

Liver and Parsley Sauce. — "Wash and score the liver of a fowl, 
boil it for a few minutes and mince it very fine ; scald a small bunch 
of parsley of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a 
tablespoon ; add this with the minced liver to a half pint smoothly 
made drawn butter, let it just boil and serve with fowl. 

Lobster Sauce. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable 
in order to render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the 
meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the 
spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mor- 
tar with half ounce butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it 
through ahair-sieve,and cover up till wanted. Make three-fourths pint 
of drawn butter, and add one tablespoon anchovy sauce, one-half 
ounce butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace if 
liked, and two or three tablespoons cream. Mix well before the 
lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not 
come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it get 
thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the color would im- 
mediately be spoiled ; for it should be remembered that this sauce 
should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be 
served with tur^^ot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed 
through a sieve, without butter) should be saved to garnish with ; 
but as the goodness, flavor, and appearance of the sauce so much 
depend on having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for gar- 
nishing the better. This makes sufficient to serve with a small 
turbot, a brill or salmon for six persons. For a very small lobster, 
use only a half pint drawn butter and season as above. The re- 
mains of a cold lotjster may with a little care be converted into a 
very good sauce. Or, break the shell of the lobster into small 



118 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



pieces ; pour over them one pint water or veal stock, add a pinch of 
salt and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. ^ Mix 
two ounces butter with an ounce flour, strain the liquid upon it and 
stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens ; do not let it boil. 
Add two tablespoons of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, 
and serve. Improved by a tablespoon of lobster butter if at hand. 
An economical sauce may be made by chopping the meat of the 
tail and claws of a good-sized lobster into pieces (not too small). 
Half an hour before dinner, make half a pint of drawn butter, add 
the chopped lobster, a pinch of coral, another of cayenne, and a 
little salt. 

Mayonnaise Sauce.— Work the yolks of two raw eggs to a 
smooth 'paste and add two salt-spoons salt, half a salt-spoon cay- 
enne, a salt-spoon dry mustard and a teaspoon olive oil ; mix these 
ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon ; 
take the remainder of half a pint olive oil and add it gradually, a tea- 
spoon at a time, and every fifth teaspoon add a few drops of lemon 
juice until you have used two lemons and the half pint oil. Or, rub 
the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with the yolk of one raw egg to 
a smooth paste ; add a heaping teaspoon salt, two salt-spoons white 
pepper, and two salt-spoons made mustard ; mix thoroughly and 
work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture alternating with a tea- 
spoon of tarragon vinegar until you have used three tablespoons 
vmegar. Should the sauce appear too thick add a wineglass of 
cream gradually. In mixing the oil and lemon juice or vinegar, 
some put in only a few drops at a time, alternately, to insure against 
curdling. For a Fish Mayo7inaise this sauce may be colored with 
lobster-spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is 
desired, a little parsley juice may be used to add to its appearance. 

Mint Sauce. — Take fresh young mint, strip leaves from stems, 
wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth ; chop very fine, put 
in a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped tablespoons mint add two of 
pounded sugar ; let remain a few minutes well mixed together, and 
pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar.' If members 
of the family like the flavor but not the substance of the mint, the 
sauce may be strained after it has stood for two or three hours, 
pressing it well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make the 
sauce two or three hours before dinner, so that the vinegar may be 
impregnated with the mint. Serve with either boiled or roast lamb. 
The addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor from the 
meat is an improvement. This makes sufficient sauce for a three or 
four-pound joint. When green mint is scarce and not obtainable, 
mint vinegar may be substituted for it and will be found acceptable 
in early spring. 

Olive Sauce. — Two dozen queen olives, one pint rich stock, the 
juice of one lemon, two tablespoons salad oil, one of flour, salt, pep- 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 119 



per, a small slice of onion. Let the olives stand in hot water half an 
hour to extract the salt, then place in cold water five minutes. Put 
onion and oil in stewpan, and as soon as the onion begins to color 
add flour. Stir until smooth, and add stock. Set back where it 
will simmer. Carefully stone the olives by paring them round in 
ribbons so that they may recover their shape when stoned. Put 
them in the sauce, add seasoning, and simmer twenty minutes. 
Skim carefully and serve. If sauce is liked thin, half the amount 
of flour given can be used. This sauce is for roast duck and game. 

Onion Saiice. — Peel nine large or twelve middling-sized white 
onions, and put them into water to which a little salt has been 
added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain fifteen min- 
utes. Put in saucepan, cover with water and boil until tender, 
changing the water, if onions are very strong, Avhen they have boiled 
fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly, chop and rub through sieve. 
Make a pint drawn butter, and when it boils put in the onions, sea- 
son with salt, stir till it simmers and the sauce will be ready to serve. 
If directions are carefully followed this White Onio7i Sauce will be 
delicious. Serve with roast shoulder of mutton or broiled rabbit. 
To make this sauce very mild and delicate use Spanish onions which 
may be obtained from first of September to Christmas. Two or 
three tablespoons cream added just before serving improves it very 
much. A knife and sieve or small wire strainer should be kept ex- 
pressly for preparing onions, that their flavor may not be imparted 
to other dishes. To make Brown Onion Sauce slice and fry the 
onions in butter, add half pint any gravy, simmer until tender, skim 
off all fat, season Avith pepper and salt and put through a sieve, re- 
heat and serve. When a nigh flavoring is liked add one tablespoon 
mushroom catsup. 

Orange Sauce. — Peel half an orange, removing all the pith ; cut 
into slices, and then in fillets ; put them in a gill of water to boil for 
two minutes ; drain on a sieve, throwing the water away ; place in 
the saucepan two spoons of demi-glaze, or ten of broth ; and, when 
boiling, add the orange and a little sugar ; simmer ten minutes, 
skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. 
This is served with ducklings and water fowl ; cayenne and mustard 
may be added if liked. 

Oyster Sauce. — Strain the liquor from a half pint oysters and 
add enough milk or water to make one pint ; stir in a half cup but- 
ter beaten to a cream with two tablespoons flour. Let this come to 
a boil, add the oysters and let them boil up once — cooking long 
hardens them. If wanted really nice the oysters should be bearded. 
Or add a few drops lemon juice or vinegar, a tablespoon capers, or 
use a seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. The sauce is richer 
if cream instead of Avater is used in making the drawn butter, but 
in this case do not add the lemon juice or vinegar. Never allow less 



120 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



than six oysters to each person, unless making a large quantity. 
Serve with fish or boiled poultry. To make Brown Oyster Sauce, 
use above ingredients, stirring butter and flour together over the fire 
until a dark brown, and serve with boiled or stewed beefsteak. 

Parsley Sauce. — Boil two tablespoons parsley slowly in 
slightly salted water, drain and cut fine, and add it to one-half pint 
smoothly-made drawn butter, with one-half teaspoon salt and a 
tablespoon vinegar. Boil up and serve. If sauce is wanted to look 
green boil the other ingredients together and pour over the scalded 
and chopped parsley already in the gravy tureen. Stir once or 
twice and serve with calf's head, boiled fowl, etc. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Free a pint of shrimps from bits of sea-grass 
and broken shells, throw them into salted boiling water, and boil 
them for a few moments, until the shells turn red, then drain them 
and break off the heads, legs and shells ; the available part is the flesh 
of the tails. After the shrimp are prepared, put a tablespoon each 
of butter and flour in a saucepan over the fire and stir them until 
they are smoothly blended ; then gradually stir in a pint boiling 
water, season the sauce with two saltspoons salt and a liberal dust 
of cayenne, put in the shrimp, and serve the sauce with boiled fish. 
Garnish the dish with a few whole shrimps. Another method of 
making this sauce is to add to a pint drawn butter sauce a half can 
shrimps, flavor with two tablespoons essence of anchovies or a tea- 
spoon anchovy paste. At the last moment a few drops lemon juice 
and a little cayenne may be added. 

Tartare Sauce. — Yolks two eggs, gill salad oil or melted butter, 
salt-spoon salt, half a salt-spoon pepper, a tablespoon good cider 
vinegar, half teaspoon each mustard and sugar, and a tablespoon 
gherkins. Beat together lightly in a small bowl the vinegar and 
yolks, add to these, drop by drop, the salad-oil or melted butter, 
taking care to stir the same way all the time ; when this is done, 
season the mixture with pepper, salt, and mustard ; add also the 
gherkins finely chopped (or capers may be substituted), and serve 
in a gravy boat with boiled salmon or cold meats. Or, mince two 
small English pickles, one-fourth of an onion, and a few sprigs of 
parsley together. Add them to three tablespoons mayonnaise sauce 
and the juice of half a lemon. Mix and serve (see mayonnaise 
sauce). A few tarragon leaves will improve the sauce. This is 
called the perfection of sauces for fried fish. 

Tomato Sauce. — Stew ten tomatoes with three cloves, and pep- 
per and salt, for fifteen minutes (some add a sliced onion and a sprig 
of parsley), strain through a sieve, put on the stove in a saucepan 
in which a lump of butter the size of an egg and level tablespoon 
flour have been well mixed and cooked, stir all until smooth, and if 
wanted to remove seeds put through a sieve, reheat and serve. 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 121 



Canned tomatoes may be used as a substitute. Or stew half a dozen 
tomatoes in a pint stock ■s\dth a slice of ham cut into dice, a bay- 
leaf, a blade of mace, three drops pepper sauce and three small 
pickled onions ; stir the whole over a gentle fire until done, then 
press them through a sieve, add salt, and put the sauce again upon 
the fire till it is very hot. 

French Tomato Sauce. — Cut tomatoes into quarters and put 
them in saucepan with salt to taste, a good handful of basil, and 
three or four cloves of garlic ; a little water should be put into the 
saucepan to prevent the tomatoes catching. When they are thor- 
oughly done turn them out upon a hair sieve and wait till all the 
water has drained from them. Throw away this water and pass the 
tomatoes through the sieve ; put the pulp into a saucepan, boil half 
an hour, and a moderate quantity of black pepper may be added to 
taste. When the sauce is quite cold put it into wide-mouthed bot- 
tles, cork tightly and tie up each cork with string or wire ; dip the 
neck of each bottle into melted resin and they may then be put away 
to be used when required. The bottles should be of moderate size, 
for once opened the sauce will no longer keep good. If before put- 
ting on the wire the bottles of sauce are placed upright in a large 
vessel full of cold water and this is put on the fire until the water 
boils, the preservation will be more certain still, and the sauce will 
keep good for any length of time. Care must be taken, however, 
not to remove the bottles from the vessel until the water has become 
perfectly cold. 

White Sauce. — Stir one tablespoon each butter and flour 
together over the fire until smooth, add one pint milk, season with 
salt and white pepper, and let boil up once. Strain if not perfectly 
smooth. This is the plain white sauce, so nice served with vegeta- 
bles, and which is also used by many as the foundation for other 
sauces instead of the rich drawn butter. Brown Sauce is made 
same way, stirring the butter and flour over the fire until a dark 
brown color, and when it is at hand using a pint froth from boiling 
meat instead of the milk. 

French White Sauce. — As white stock is the foundation of this 
sauce, it must be prepared first as follows : Cut up four pounds 
knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham, 
put it into a saucepan which has been rubbed with butter, moisten 
with half pint water and simmer till gravy begins to flow ; then add 
four quarts water, three carrots, two onions, one head celery, twelve 
white pepper-corns, a blade of mace, bunch of herbs, tablespoon 
each butter and salt. Simmer five hours, skim, strain carefully, and 
the White Stock is ready for use. Consomme is made exactly the 
same with double the quantity of meat or half the water. For the 
sauce put one pint stock in the saucepan with a small bunch pars- 



122 CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 



ley, two cloves, half bay-leaf, small bunch savory herbs, three or 
four mushropms when obtainable, and salt to taste. When it has 
boiled enough to extract the flavor from the herbs, etc., strain and 
boil up quickly again until it is nearly half reduced. Mix one table- 
spoon arrowroot smoothly with a pint cream and simmer gently five 
minutes over slow fire ; add to it the reduced stock, and if stock is 
thick continue to simmer slowly for ten minutes, but if thin, stir 
over brisk fire till it thickens. This is the well known Bechamel 
Sauce, and is the foundation of many others, especially white 
sauces. Many make it thick, as it is easily thinned with cream or 
white stock. To make Brown Stock or Sauce stir three-fourths 
tablespoon flour with a tablespoon butter over the fire until a dark 
brown color and add to white stock. 



Caper Butter . — Chop one tablespoon capers very fine, rub 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix with a salt-spoon 
salt, quarter of a spoon pepper, and one ounce cold butter. Put a 
layer of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it. 

Drawn Butter. — Cut one-fourth pound (or four well-rounded 
tablespoons) butter up into small pieces, put in saucepan, dredge 
over a dessert-spoon flour, and add four tablespoons water and a 
seasoning of salt ; stir it one way constantly till the whole of the 
ingredients are melted and thoroughly blended Let it just boil, 
when it is ready to serve. If the butter is to be melted with cream, 
use the same quantity as of water, but omit the flour ; keep stirring, 
but do not allow it to boil. Another way of making, which is also 
used as a sauce, is to mix the flour and water, rubbing down all 
lumps with a spoon, and put in a saucepan with the water and salt, 
adding one-hall spoon white vinegar and a very little grated nut- 
meg. Simmer, not boil, until it thickens. 

Lohster Butter. — Mix the spawn and coral of a lobster with 
double the quantity of butter, a little cayenne, and pound in a mor- 
tar to a paste. May be used in flavoring lobster sauce and garnish- 
ing or decorating cold salmon, etc. 

Parsley Butter. — One-fourth pound butter, two dessert-spoons 
minced parsley, the juice of one large lemon and salt and pepper to 
taste, well worked together. Serve over or around either meat or 
fish. 

Caramel Coloring. — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water 
in a saucepan over the fire, stir constantly till it is a dark color, then 
add a half teacup water and a pinch of salt, let boil for a fcAV mo- 
ments, take off', and when cold, bottle. 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES. 123 



Parsley Coloring. — Procure nice young parsley, and wash and 
dry thoroughly in a clotli ; pound the leaves in a mortar until all 
the juice is extracted, and put juice in teacup or small jar, set in a 
saucepan of boiling water and warm it just enough to take otF its 
rawness. Let it drain and it will be ready for coloring. 

Spinach Coloring. — "Wash a peck of spinach, pour on it two 
quarts boiling water and let it stand one minute. Pour off the 
water, and pound the spinach to a soft pulp. Put this in a coarse 
towel and squeeze all the juice into a small frying pan. (Two people, 
by using the towel at the same time, will extract the juice more 
thoroughly than one can). Put the pan on the fire, and stir until 
the juice is in the form of curd and whey. Watch closely and do 
not boil. Turn on a sieve, and when all the liquor has been drained 
off, scrape the dry material from the sieve and put away for use. 
Another mode is to put with the juice in the frying-pan three table- 
spoons sugar, and cook five minutes ; then bottle for use. This is 
really the more convenient way. Spinach green is used for coloring 
soups, sauces and creams. 

French Mustard. — Slice an onion in a bowl and cover it with 
good vinegar ; after t~70 days pour off the vinegar, add to it a tea- 
spoon each cayenne pepper and salt, a tablespoon sugar, and mus- 
tard enough to thicken ; set on the stove until it boils ; when cold 
it is fit for use. 

Indian Mustard. — Put one-fourth pound each mustard and 
flour and a half tablespoon salt into a basin, and make them into a 
stiff paste with boiling water. Boil four shallots with four table- 
spoons each vinegar and catsup, and one-fourth bottle anchovy 
sauce, for ten minutes, and pour the whole, hoiling, over the mixture, 
in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it to a proper thickness ; put it 
into a bottle, with a bruised shallot at the bottom, and store away 
for use.. If properly prepared will keep for years. An excellent 
relish for bread and butter and very nice with meats. 

Prepared Mustard. — Three teaspoons ground mustard, one of 
flour (two if the mustard seems very strong), half teaspoon sugar; 
pour boiled water cooled to lukewarm on these and mix into a 
smooth, thick paste ; when cold add vinegar enough to make ready 
for use, and serve with salt. This resembles the French mustard. 
Another mode of preparing is to make a dressing of one cup vin- 
egar, two eggs, one tablespoon each pepper, sugar and salt, butter 
size of a walnut ; beat well and simmer over the fire to cook the 
eggs ; then add a tablespoon mustard wet in lukewarm water. Mus- 
tard may be flavored in various ways, with tarragon, shallot, celery, 
and many other vinegars, herbs, spices, etc. 

Tartar Mustard. — Mix a half cup mustard and a slight season- 
ing of cayenne with sufficient horse-radish vinegar to render it per- 



124 



CATSUPS AND SAUCES 



fectly smooth, rubbing lumps down with back of spoon, adding the 
vinegar a little at a time, and not making it too thm. 

Curry Powder. — An ounce each ginger, mustard, and pepper, 
three each of coriander seed and turmeric, one-half ounce carda- 
mon, quarter ounce each cayenne pepper and cumin seed ; pound 
all fine, sift and cork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient 
to season any thing. This is nice for sauces, boiled meats and stews. 

Dried Celery and Parsley. — Wash the leaves, stalks, roots 
and trimmings of celery and put them in a cool oven to dry thor- 
oughly ; then grate the root, rub leaves and stalks through a sieve 
and put all in tightly corked bottle. Delicious seasoning for sauces, 
soups, stews and dressing. Save all bits of parsley and preserve for 
future use in same manner, not using the roots ; or, take freshly 
gathered parsley and wash it perfectly free from grit and dirt ; put 
into boiling water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, 
and then let it boil for two or three minutes ; take out, let drain, and 
place on a sieve in front of the fire, w^hen it should be dried as ex- 
])editiously as possible. Store it away in a very dry place in bot- 
tles, and when wanted for use pour over it a little warm water, and 
let stand for about five minutes. This may be done any time be- 
tween June and October. Celery salt is made by mixing the root 
dried and ground as above with cne-fourth its quantity of salt. A 
very nice seasoning, and will keep a long time. 

Fried Parsley. — Gather some 3'oung parsley ; wash, pick, and 
dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; put it into the wire egg basket and hold 
it in boiling lard or drippings for a minute or two; Directly it is 
done, lift out basket, and let stand before the fire that the parsley 
may become thoroughly crisp, and the quicker it is fried the better. 
Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above article, throw 
the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it out, dry before 
the fire, and when thoroughly crisp it will be ready for use. This is 
used for garnishing. 

Spiced Salt. — Dry, powder, and mix by repeated siftings the 
following : One-fourth ounce each powdered thyme, bay-leaf and 
pepper, one-eighth ounce each marjoram and cayenne pepper, one- 
half ounce each powdered clove and nutmeg, and to every four 
ounces of tiiis powder add one ounce salt. Keep in an air-tight 
vessel. Nice for spicing sauces, and one ounce of it added to three 
pounds stuffing, or force meat of any kind makes a delicious sea- 
soning. 



CHEESE. 125 



CHEESE. 



The many appetizing, varied and really elegant dishe» con- 
cocted with the aid of cheese by modern cooks, render this prod- 
uct of the dairy indispensable to every well appointed table. And 
while the opinion prevails to some extent in this country that 
imported cheese is superior to that of home manufacture, this is not 
by any means true, as is proven by the fact that immense quantities 
of American cheese are annually exported, most of which is mar- 
keted in England, wliere it is eagerly sought for. The English, how- 
ever, and other foreign manufacturers, brand their cheese with the 
name of the locality in which it is made, and hence several fine 
varieties, as the Stilton, the Cheshire, Gruyere, Parmesan and others 
have very justly become celebrated. While equally as good cheese 
is manufactured in America, notably in New York and Northern 
Ohio, and nearly every state has factories turning out excellent prod- 
ucts, it goes abroad with no distinctive brand, and is sold along 
with other cheese, good, bad and indifferent, simply under the name 
of American cheese ; and as a buyer who may have once been fortu- 
nate enough to secure a good American article has no means of 
knowing that his next purchase will be of the same manufacture, 
because of the American want of foresight in neglecting to properly 
brand cheese, and often gets poor stuff under the same general name, 
we are placed at a great disadvantage in competing with foreign 
manufacturers. Instead of aiming to make home cheese famous, 
American manufacturers have taken to catering to the popular pre- 



]^26 CHEESE. 

judice in favor of the imported article, and much of what is sold here 
as English, Swiss and Italian cheese, is made upon our own shores, 
and is of such excellent quality that the most prejudiced cannot dis- 
tinguish between it and the real imported brand. 

Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the quality 
of the materials of which it is composed, and is made of the "entire" 
milk — new milk, or milk with the cream unskimmed — of milk and 
cream, that is, the morning's milk with the cream of the evening 
before ; of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, and of skimmed 
milk only. Strong, means of a high flavor and odor but not neces- 
sarily sharp. Most new cheeses are relatively mild, and develop 
their characteristics, especially sharpness, with age. The Romans 
smoked their cheese to give it a sharp taste. The most celebrated 
varieties of the foreign cheeses are the following : The Parmesan, a 
hard, high flavored article, slightly sharp, manufactured in Parma 
and Piacenza, Italy, which is supposed to get its flavor from the rich 
herbage of the pastures of the river Po, is made entirely of skimmed 
milk, and the best is that which has been kept three or four years, 
none being marketed under six months ; it is highly prized for grat- 
ing and cooking. The best English cheeses are the Stilton, Ches- 
hire and Cheddar, the first of which is finest and richest, made from 
cream and milk, and requires two years to ripen ; the Cheshire is 
made of entire milk, and the Cheddar, of mild flavor, is made of 
skimmed milk, like the Parmesan, which it much resembles ; the 
Dunlop is the only Scotch cheese well known in America, and has a 
peculiarly mild and rich taste ; the Gruyere is the best of the Swiss 
cheeses and has a fine flavor, but the Neufchatel, which comes in 
little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is perhaps best 
known in America and is cheap and delicious ; care must be taken 
when purchasing to see that it is not musty. The German Limburger, 
a very strong cheese, which is not considered fit for consumption 
until partly putrefied, is well known here. French cheeses are gen- 
erally for winter consumption, and come to us only from October to 
May. The best known here are the Brie, made of cream, and which 
comes in flat, round boxes weighing usually four pounds, and the 
Roquefort, a mixture of the milk of goats and sheep, made in same 
shape and size; the Dutchman's Head, or Edam, from Holland, 
prized principally for grating and cooking, is also sold here. The 
American cheeses are the Pineapple, which is double the price of 



CHEESE. 



127 



ordinary cheese, imitations of English Dairy, American Factory, and 
California cheese, which is only about half the weight and thickness 
of Eastern, and instead of being incased in a round wooden box like 
the Eastern, is handled loose or naked in the wholesale market. 
None of the American cheeses are classed among strong cheeses. 
They are good all the year round. The foreign varieties, or equally 
as good American imitations, may all be had in the larger cities, 
while excellent, if not the best, American factory cheese is obtainable 
everywhere. Sage cheese is made by the addition of bruised sage 
leaves to the curd, which imparts a greenish color and a flavor liked 
by man5^ Cream cheese is not properly a cheese, although so called, 
but is simply cream dried sufficiently to be cut with a knife. Cheese 
from milk and potatoes is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. 
Cheese may be had in small, round shapes, brickbats, the thin Cali- 
fornia cheeses, etc., as well as shaped in the ordinary large round 
hoop, or by the pound therefrom. All cheese, except the foreign 
skim-milk makes, contains more or less coloring matter, principally 
annatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are 
adulterated. 

In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought in 
large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the 
larger quantity spread with a thickly buttered sheet of white paper, 
and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheese moist a damp 
cloth should be wrapped round it (wet with white wine or alcohol is 
better), and the cheese put into a pan or crock kept covered in a 
cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring them for- 
ward, put them into a damp cellar, and to check the production of 
mites spirits may be poured into the parts affected. Pieces of cheese 
which are too near the rind, or too dry to put on table, may be 
made into Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed with maca- 
roni. Cheeses may be preserved in a perfect state for years, by 
covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water, or. 
by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses se- 
lected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind. The usual 
mode of serving cheese is to cut a small quantity 
of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a 
glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round. 
Should the cheese crumble much, of course this ^^oi cheeseT 
method is rather wasteful and it may then be put on the table in the 




128 



CHEESE. 



piece, and the host may cut from it. ^Vhen served thus, the cheese 
must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white doyley ot 
napkin, neatly folded. Cream-cheese is often served in a cheese 
course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan ; the latter should be put 
into a colored glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, and salad, or 
water-cress, should always form part of a cheese course, which is 
served just before the dessert. It is English to serve celery or cucum- 
bers with it. Thin milk crackers or wafer biscuits (put into the 
oven just a moment before serving, to make them crisp) should be 
served with cheese ; butter also for spreading the crackers, this being 
the only time that it is usually allowed for dinner. Macaroni with 
cheese, Welsh rare-bits, cheese omelets, or little cheese cakes, are 
good substitutes for a cheese-course. In serving a Stilton cheese, 
the top of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece 
of white paper with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the 
cheese goes from table, the lid should be replaced. Those made in 
May or June are usually served at Christmas ; or, to be in prime 
order, should be kept from ten to twelve months, or even longer. 
An artificial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes produced by 
inserting a small piece of decayed Cheshire into an aperture at the 
top. From three weeks to a month is sufficient 
time to ripen the cheese. An additional flavor 
may also be obtained by scooping out a piece 
from the top, and pouring therein port, sherry, 
^Maderia, or old ale, and letting the cheese ab- 
sorb these for two or three weeks. But that 
cheese is the finest which is ripened without any 
artificial aid, is the opinion of those who are judges in these matters. 
A dry cheese is best for grating, and the Parmesan, Edam and Ched- 
dar are largely used for this purpose, but any dry 
cheese or bits left over may be utilized. If the kind 
called for in any of the following recipes is not at 
hand, use the ordinary cheese. Serve as hot and as 
quickly as possible, for if allowed to cool the flavor 
and quality of the melted or cooked cheese is 
spoiled. In buying cheese, that which feels soft 
between the fingers is richest and best. When mites have taken pos- 
ession of a cheese, and one wishes to use it, the following recipe 
"will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese; 




Stilton Cheese: 




Cheese Bucket. 



CHEESE. 129 

Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton has been cooked, 
whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few seconds, take 
out cheese, wipe immediately, dry and then put it away in a dry 
place until required for use. The cheese bucket illustrated will 
be found the most convenient receptacle for cheese, the close-fitting 
cover excluding air and insects, and is much more easily moved 
about thi^n a crock. 



Cheese Cakes. — Take twelve ounces curd made as in recipe for 
cream cheese, (product of four quarts milk), half cup each sugar, 
and butter, four j^olks of eggs and a pinch of salt, flavoring with 
grated lemon rind, or extract and nutmeg. Rub the curd, as taken 
from the draining cloth, through a puree sieve, add the other in- 
gredients and mix well together. Line patty-pans with paste, near- 
ly fill with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. The curd 
mixture, though seemingly too firm at first, melts and pufi"s up in 
the oven. Dredge powdered sugar over the tops when done. These 
are very delicious. As substitutes for rennet curd, which is as sweet 
as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk and the curd of a custard 
that is spoiled through letting it boil, can be used if prepared by 
scalding and draining in the same way, but will not be quite so 
good. 

Cheese Crusts. — Cut stale bread in slices about two inches and 
a half thick ; trim off crust, place on a baking-pan and on each slice 
of bread put a heaping tablespoon of any mild cheese grated, or a 
very thin layer of strong, rich cheese ; on the top of the cheese put 
very little salt and pepper, and a bit of butter, and set the pan in a 
hot oven just long enough to slightly brown the crusts ; watch them, 
because they should only be browned a little ; let them cool on the 
baking-pan, and then transfer them, without breaking them or dis- 
turbing the cheese, to the dish on which they are to be served. 
Cheese crusts may be used at family dinners as a sort of dessert, or 
served at dinner or luncheon with any green salad or celery. 

Cheese Diablotins. — Put a gill milk in a stewpan, with two 
tablespoons butter ; when boiling, stir in two tablespoons flour, keep 
^^^ stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stew- 
^^^ pan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, and a 
pound grated cheese ; mix well, season with pep- 
per, salt, and cayenne, rather highly, mold the 
paste into balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan 
containing it, drop them into hot lard ; fry of a nice light brown, 
and serve very hot ; a quarter of this quantity may of course be 
made. An excellent dish. 




130 ' CHEESE. 

Cheese Fingers. — Roll pie paste out thin and cut into strips 
about four inches long and one and one-half wide ; strew each 
thickly with grated cheese, season with pepper and salt, double the 
paste lengthwise, enclosing the cheese, pinch the edges and bake in 
quick oven. Wash over with beaten egg just before taking out and 
sift a little powdered cheese on top. Shut oven door a moment to 
glaze them well ; pile log-cabin fashion on a napkin in a warm dish 
and serve hot. 

Cheese Fondu. — There are many ways of preparing this dish, of 
which the following are considered the best : Four eggs, the weight 
of two in cheese, Parmesan or Cheshire if obtainable, the weight of 
two in butter ; pepper and salt to taste. Separate the yolks from 
the whites of the eggs ; beat the former in a basin and grate the 
cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes. Break the butter into small 
pieces, add it to the other ingredients with sufficient pepper and salt 
to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk the 
whites of eggs, stir them lightly in last, and put into oven as quickly 
as possible. Bake in a souffle dish or small round cake tin. Fill 
only half full, as it should rise very much. Pin napkin round the 
dish if there is no ornamental receptacle, and serve very hot and 
quickly. If allowed to stand after taken from the oven, the beauty 
and lightness of the fondu will be completely spoiled. If one has 
not an ornamental receptacle, a pretty way of serving is to line the 
baking pan with paper cut in a fringe at the top. Or bake in indi- 
vidual molds or tins of small size lined thus with paper, or in thick 
paper molds of any fancied form, remembering that they must be 
only half filled when put in oven. Another excellent recipe is to 
take as many eggs as there are to be persons at table, weigh them in 
the shell, and take one-third their weight in the best cheese to be 
had, and one-sixth as much butter as cheese. To the well-beaten 
eggs add the grated cheese and the butter broken into small pieces, 
and stir together with a wooden spoon ; put over the fire and stir 
until thick and soft ; add salt and pepper to taste and serve on very 
hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondu to remain on the 
fire after the mixture is set, for if it boils jt will be entirely spoiled. 
Or, take one cup bread-crumbs, very dry and fine, two scant cups of 
milk, rich and fresh or it will curdle, one-half pound dry old cheese, 
grated, three eggs whipped very light, one small tablespoon melted 
butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a pinch of soda dissolved in hot 
water and stirred into the milk ; soak the crumbs in the milk, beat 
into these the eggs, butter and seasoning, and lastly the cheese. But- 
ter a neat baking dish, pour the fondu into it, strew dry bread- 
crumbs on the top and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately 
browned. Serve immediately in the baking dish, as it soon falls. 
Economical and delicious. 

Cheese Fritters. — Put six tablespoons flour in a bowl and pour 
a half tablespoon melted butter into the center ; add to this, by 



CHEESE. 131 

degrees, eight tablespoons tepid water, beating all the time, yolk of 
one egg, half teaspoon each pepper and dry mustard, and three 
heaping tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, and last the well- 
beaten white. Drop a tablespoon at a time into hot clarified fat or 
lard. As the fritters brown and rise to top, turn and brown the 
other side; place piece of kitchen paper (any clean, coarse brown 
paper) in a baking pan in open oven and put the browned fritters 
upon it for a moment that the paper may absorb the fat, then serve 
upon a hot plate covered with a hot napkin and garnished with 
sprigs of parsley. 

Cheese Omelet. — Beat up eggs as for ordinary omelet (see Eggs) 
and add to them the cheese cut in small pieces, a tablespoon to 
three eggs. The cheese may be stirred in quickly just before fry- 
ing, or strewn over the omelet in the pan. A seasoning of salt and 
pepper should be added after putting in pan. Parmesan cheese 
should be grated and beaten in with the eggs, adding a little more 
just before folding the omelet, and serving with the grated cheese 
sprinkled on top. Serve as hot as possible and it will be delicious. 

Cheese Pudding. — One-half pound dry cheese, grated fine, one 
cup dry bread-crumbs, four well-beaten eggs, one cup minced meat — 
one-third ham, two-thirds fowl — one cup milk and one of good 
gravy — veal or fowl — one teaspoon butter, and a pinch of soda in 
the milk ; season with pepper and a very little salt. Stir the milk 
into the beaten eggs, then the bread-crumbs, seasoning, and meat ; 
lastly the cheese. Beat up well, but not too long, else the milk may 
curdle in spite of the soda. Butter a mold, pour in the pudding, 
cover, and boil three-quarters of an hour steadily. Turn out upon 
a hot dish and pour the gravy over it. Or, grate three ounces cheese 
and five of bread ; and having warmed one ounce butter in a quar- 
ter pint new milk, mix it with the above, add two well-beaten eggs 
and a little salt. Bake half an hour. 

Cheese Puifs. — Three ounces cream curd, one quart rich milk 
curdled with rennet, one gill milk, one tablespoon butter, one cup 
flour, two ounces grated cheese, three eggs. Have the curd scalded 
and drained dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. Boil the milk 
with the butter in it, drop in the flour all at once and stir the paste 
over the fire a few minutes ; take off fire and put in the curd and the 
grated cheese, and pound the mixture smooth ; then add the eggs 
one at a time and beat them in. Drop spoonfuls of this mixture 
into patty-pans, lined thinly with pie paste, and bake in a slack 
oven ; or else roll mixture very thin, cut in triangular shapes, put a 
spoonful of the mixture in the middle and pinch up the sides like a 
three-cornered hat, and bake on a biscuit pan. They will open out 
in baking. Good to eat with apple-sauce. 

Cheese Relish. — Place small piece butter in frying-pan with 
one-fourth pound thinly sliced fresh cheese and pour over it a cup 



132 CHEESE. 

sweet milk, quarter teaspoon dry mustard, pinch salt and pepper, 
stirring all the time, then add gradually three finely rolled crackers 
and serve at once in a warm dish. 

Cheese Sandwiches. — Rub yolks of three hard boiled eggs to a 
smooth paste with one tablespoon melted butter, season with pepper 
and salt, and work in one-fourth pound good English cheese, grated, 
or any cheese may be used. Spread the mixture on very thin slices 
of bread, and fold. Or place slices of good rich cheese half an inch 
thick beWeen slices of brown-bread and butter, set them on a plate 
in oven until well toasted and serve on napkin quickly while very 
hot. 

Cheese SouMe. — Two tablespoons butter, one heaping table- 
spoon flour, half cup milk, cup grated cheese, three eggs, half tea- 
spoon salt, speck of cayenne. Put the butter in the saucepan and 
when hot add the flour and stir until smooth but not browned, add 
the milk and seasoning and cook two minutes, then add the weP 
beaten yolks of eggs and the cheese ; set away to cool ; when cold 
add the stiffly frothed whites, turn into a buttered souffle pan or 
baking dish and bake from twenty to twent3'-five minutes. Serve the 
moment it comes from the oven. The dish in which this is baked 
should hold a quart. 

Cheese Soup. — Mix one and a half cups flour with one pint rich 
cream, four tablespoons each butter and grated Parmesan cheese 
with a speck of cayenne ; place the basin in another of hot water 
and stir until the mixture becomes a smooth, firm paste ; break into 
it two eggs and mix quickly and thoroughly, cook two minutes 
longer and set away to cool ; when cold roll into little balls size of 
American walnut. When the balls are all formed drop them into 
boiling water and cook gently five minutes ; j.ut them in a soup- 
tureen and pour three quarts of clear boiling soup-stock over them. 
Pass a plate of finely grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. 

Cheese Vol au Vents. — Cut rounds of bread from slices an inch 
thick, cut out an inner round, leaving a shallow 
cavity. Dip in beaten egg and fry a light brown. 

Then fill the cavities with a mixture made by stir- _ 

ring into a half cup of boiling water one table- chees^vorau vents. ^ 
spoon butter and five tablespoons grated cheese, and when this is 
melted the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season with pepper and 
salt, beat together one minute and put in a handful bread-crumbs. 
After filling the rounds of fried bread brown very quickly in oven and 
serve on folded napkin. 

Cheese Straws. — Sift six ounces flour on the pastry-board, make 
a hole or well in the center ; into this well put two tablespoons 
cream, three ounces grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, four 
ounces butter, half a level teaspoon salt, quarter salt-spoon each 




(CHEESE'. 133 

pepper and grated nutmeg, together with as much cayenne as can 
be taken up on the point of a very small penknife blade ; mix all 
these ingredients with the tips of the fingers to a firm paste, knead 
it well, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick, and with a sharp knife 
or pastry jagger cut it in straws about eight inches long and quar- 
ter of an inch wide ; lay the strips carefully on a buttered tin, and 
bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These cheese 
straws make a delicious accompaniment to salad, and may be served 
as a course at dinner, either with or without crackers, but always 
with a dressed green salad, or with plain celery. Another mode of 
making is to rub four tablespoons sifted flour with two of butter, 
and four of grated cheese, add one egg and season with calt and 
cayenne pepper, roll very thin, cut in narrow strips three inches in 
length, and mold either into straws or tie in true lover's knots, bake 
a pale brown in a hot oven and serve hot on napkin, with salads. 
Four tablespoons bread-crumbs may be used instead of the egg, and 
the straws made thus are often served cold for luncheon or tea. 
Still another excellent recipe is two cups grated cheese, one-third 
cup butter, cayenne to taste, three-fourths cup flour, or enough to 
roll as pie-crust, one-half cup warm water ; beat all to- 
gether, roll out and cut in narrow strips four inches long, 
and bake on writing paper in a hot oven, to a lightbrown. 
Or, mix three-quarters pint grated cheese, pint flour, pinch 
salt with lard as pie crust, roll and finish as above. Serve chles. strips. 
with salad, piled on plate, crossing them in pairs and tying 
with ribbon of different colors ; or, bake in eight-inch lengths and 
serve in log-cabin style. Use cream, milk or water for mixing. 

Cheese with Celery. — One-half cup each grated cheese, gravy 
and butter, or poultry fat, two cups celery cut small, and a little 
pepper and salt. The celery should be in pieces about an inch long 
split to look like macaroni ; boil ten minutes in water, drain, mix in 
the cheese, butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a pan, basting the 
top with spoonfuls of the meat gravy. Serve like a vegetable in 
tureen or individual dishes. 

Cheese with Crackers. — Soak in boiling water round milk 
crackers split in two, take them out carefully so as not to break 
them ; make layers of these slices in a little gratin dish or a deep 
baking-dish, each slice buttered, spread with a little made mustard, 
and sprinkled with pepper, salt, and plenty of grated cheese. When 
all is prepared, bake them in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

Cheese with Eggs. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices and lay in 
a well-buttered dish that has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and 
place on each slice of egg a slice of Gruyere cheese of same shape 
and size ; place a bit of butter on each, pepper well, sift a few bread- 
crumbs over and put into good oven for about five minutes. Serve 
as hot as possible. 





134 CHEESE. 

Cheese with Macaroni. — Put a pint milk and two pints water 
into a saucepan with sufficient salt to flavor it; place it on the fire 
and when it boils quickly drop in a half pound pipe macaroni. 
Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender (an hour or more), 
drain the macaroni and put it into a deep dish. Have ready six 
ounces grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire, sprinkle it 
amongst the macaroni and some of the butter cut into small pieces, 
reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little 
pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread- 
crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remainder of one-fourth pound 
butter, and pour it gently over the 
bread-crumbs. Place the dish before a 

bright fire to brown the crumbs ; turn 

it once or twice that it may be equally " salamander, 

colored, and serve very hot. The top of the macaroni may be 
browned with a salamander, Avhich is even better than placing it be- 
fore the fire, as the process is more expeditious ; but it should never 
be browned in the oven, as the butter would oil and so impart a 
very disagreeable flavor to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it 
be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form 
entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little 
salt, instead of using milk,' but should then have a small piece of 
butter mixed with it. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 

Cottage Cheese. — Set a gallon or more of clabbered milk on the 
stove hearth, or back of stove, or in the oven after cooking a meal, 
leaving the door open ; turn it around frequently, and cut the curd 
into squares Avith a knife, stirring gently now and then till about as 
warm as the finger will bear, and the whey shows all around the 
curd ; pour all into a coarse bag and hang to drain in a cool place 
for three or four hours, or overnight if made in the evening. When 
wanted, turn from the bag, chop rather coarse with a knife and dress 
with salt, pepper and sweet cream. Some mash and rub thoroughly 
with the cream ; others dress with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg, 
omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine, add salt 
to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and mold into round 
balls. If wanted to serve immediately, drain the curd through a col- 
ander, pressing out all the whey possible with the back of a spoon, 
dress as above as soon as cold and send to table, cutting the top of 
cheese in little squares. 

Cream Cheese. — Take three pints thick cream and put it into a 
clean wet cloth, adding a teaspoon salt after the cream is sour ; tie 
it up and hang it in a cool place for seven or eight days ; take it 
from the cloth and put it in another and then into a mold with a 
weighty upon it for two or three days longer. Turn it twice a day, 
Avhen it will be fit to use Sour cream may be made into 
cheese same way. If wanted to ripen quickly, cover with 



CHEESE. J35 

mint or nettle leaves. Or take a small pan of fresh morning's milk, 
warm from the cow is best, and mix with the cream skimmed from 
an equal quantity of the last night's milk. Warm it to blood heat, 
pour into it a cup of water in which a piece of rennet the size of two 
fingers has soaked all night, and put it in a w^arm place till the curd 
has formed. Cut the curd into squares, put it in a thin straining 
cloth, squeeze it dry, then crumble and salt it to taste. Wash the 
straining cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bottomless vessel the 
size of a dinner plate perforated with small holes), put the crumbled 
curd into the cloth and fold the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the 
cover and set a weight on it. In six hours turn the cheese, and let 
stand six hours longer. Then take it out, rub it with fresh butter, 
and set it in a dark, dry place. Turn it every day for four or five 
days, when it is fit for use, and it must be eaten immediately when 
cut. It will keep but a few days, even in cold weather. To make a 
plain family cream cheese, take three half pints milk to one-half 
pint cream, warm it and put in a little rennet ; keep it covered in a 
warm place till it is curdled ; put the curds into the colander on a 
cloth to drain about an hour, serve with good plain cream and 
pounded sugar over it. To color, pound fresh sage leaves in a mor- 
tar to obtain the juice, and mix it with the milk while warm after 
the rennet is put in. Spinach juice is an improvement. 

Potato Cheese. — Boil good white potatoes, and when cool, peel 
them and grate or mash them to alight pulp ; to five pounds of this, 
which must be free from lumps, add a pint of sour milk and salt to 
taste ; knead the whole well, cover it, and leave it for three or four 
days, according to the season ; then knead it afresh, and put the 
cheeses into small baskets, when they will part with their superflu- 
ous moisture ; dry them in the shade, and place them in layers in 
large pots or kegs, where they may remain a fortnight. The older 
they are the finer they become. This cheese, it is said, never engen- 
ders worms, and in well closed vessels, in a dry place, will keep for 
years. This is celebrated in various parts of Europe. 

Pounded Cheese. — To every pound cheese allow three table- 
spoons butter. Cut cheese into small pieces and pound smoothly 
in mortar (or use a bowl and potato masher), then thoroughly mix 
the butter with it ; press into a jar, cover with clarified butter and it 
will keep several days. A good way to dispose of dry cheese ; very 
nice for sandwiches, and the best mode of preparing for those whose 
digestion is weak. May be flavored by adding a teaspoon mixed 
mustard, cayenne or powdered mace, to each pound cheese, and 
curry powder is often used. 

Toasted Cheese. — Rub the bottom of a heated frying-pan with a 
cut onion, then with butter. Put a half pound dry grated cheese 
into it, stirring fast to prevent burning. When it is melted put in a 
tablespoon each melted butter and made mustard, and a pinch cay- 



136 CHEESE. 

enne pepper, and lastly a tablespoon bread-crumbs, which have 
been previously soaked in cream, then pressed almost dry. Spread 
smoking hot on rounds or slices of thin toast from which the crust 
has been pared, and serve at once. For Toasted Cheese with Eggs 
take one-half pound good English cheese, three eggs beaten light, 
three tablespoons bread-crumbs soaked in cream, tablespoon mustard, 

a little minced parsley, three table- ggs^ ^s. 

spoons butter, melted, but not hot. ^jlu '^"'^ ^ B: 

Beat the soaked crumbs Into the ^^■™ j^..^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^.^^ 

eggs, then the butter and seasoning, lastly the cheese. Beat very 

light, spread smoothly on slices of delicate toast and brown quickly 

upon the upper grating of the oven. The cheese knife will be found 

useful in preparing cheese for toasting, scooping out the inside of a 

dry cheese, etc. 

RamakinB. — Four ounces grated, high-flavored cheese, half 
Cheshire and half Parmesan if obtainable, or all of one kind, two 
ounces each butter and bread (without crust), a scant gillmilkj one- 
third teaspoon each mustard and salt, small pinch cayenne pepper, 
^BManyga two or three eggs. Crumb the bread and boil it soft in the 
^HhS^ milk ; add the butter, mustard, salt, j)epper, cheese, and the 
yolks of the eggs ; beat thoroughly, then stir in the whites of the 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour this into patty pans or saucers, 
which ought not to be more than half filled ; bake the paste from 
five to ten minutes, when it should be pufied high above the edge of 
the pans. Serve immediately, or they will fall. A good cheese course 
for dinner and nice for lunch or supper. This batter is equally nice 
for macaroni. Another excellent recipe for ramakins is to boil half 
jjint milk and half the quantity of cream ; melt one ounce butter 
and a little salt ; mix in a spoonful flour, and stir it over the fire 
five minutes ; pour in milk and cream by degrees and work smooth, 
taking care that it is thoroughly cooked, then take off" and add half 
a pound grated cheese, some coarse ground pepper and an atom of 
nutmeg, with a very little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight eggs 
and whites of two, well beaten ; when perfectly mixed, add the well- 
frothed whites of six eggs ; the batter should be as thick as cream. 
Make little paper trays, fill them half full, and bake in a very slow 
oven eighteen minutes. Or, bake in patty pans or small cups. 
Serve hot. 

Pastry Ramakins. — The remains or odd pieces of paste leffc 
from large tarts, etc., answer for making these little dishes. Gather 
up the pieces of paste, roll out evenly, and 
sprinkle with grated cheese of a nice flavor. 
Fold the paste in three, roll it out again and ■■'''''"""'''"*'"''«!'iiiii!!!!i^^^^ 
sprinkle more cheese over ; fold the paste, paste jag 

roll it out, and with apaste jaggar shape it in any way that may be 
desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ton to fifteen min- 
utes ; just before taking from the oven brush Avitli beaten egg and 




CHEESE. 137 

sift over with powdered sugar, let brov/n a moment, dish them on a 
hot naj)kin and serve quickly. Where expense is not objected to, Par- 
mesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish. The 
recipe makes a quantity sufficient for six or seven persons. 

Toast Ramakins. — Three tablespoons grated cheese, two eggs 
beaten light, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon anchovy 
sauce, one teaspoon flour wet with cream, a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
Beat the butter and seasoning in with the eggs, then the cheese, lastly 
the flour, working until the mixture is of creamy lightness. Spread 
thickly upon slices of lightly toasted bread and brown quickly in the 
oven. Or, grate a half pound cheese and melt two ounces butter ; 
while the latter is getting cool mix it with the cheese and well-beaten 
whites of three eggs ; lay buttered papers in a frying pan, put in 
slices of bread and lay the cheese mixture on top ; set it over the 
fire for about five minutes, then take it off and brown with a 
salamander. 

Scotch Rare-hit. — Cut nice, rich, sound cheese into rather thin 
slices, melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and 
when melted add a small quantity mixed mustard and a seasoning 
of pepper. Stir the cheese until it is completely dissolved, then 
brown it before the fire or with a hot salamander. Serve with dry 
or buttered toasts, whichever may be preferred. If the cheese is not 
very rich a few pieces of butter may be mixed with it to great ad- 
vantage. Sometimes the melted cheese is spread on the toasts, and 
then laid in the cheese-toaster. Whichever way it is served it is 
highly necessary that the mixture be very hot and very quickly sent 
to table. 

Welsh Rare-hit. — Cut bread into slices about half an inch in 
thickness, allowing a slice for each person ; pare off the crust, toast 
the bread slightly without hardening or burning it, and spread it 
with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the bread, from 
a good rich fat cheese ; lay them on the toasted bread in a cheese- 
toaster ; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it be equ-al- 
ly melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a sea- 
soning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To facil- 
itate the melting of the cheese it may be cut into thin flakes or 
toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essen- 
tial to send this dish hot to table it is a good plan to melt the cheese 
in small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table, 
allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should 
alwa3'^s accompany them, with mustard, pepper and salt ; or stir to- 
gether in a saucepan over the fire until smoothly blended, four 
heaping tablespoons grated cheese, two of butter, one oi milk, salt- 
spoon each salt and dry mustard, quarter of pepper and a dust or 
cayenne. The pan must be hot and rubbed well with butter before 
putting in the cheese ; stir rapidly and when melted put in butter. 



138 CHEESE. 

next mustard and pepper. Some add a cup bread-crumbs soaked 
in a little milk, which should be pressed dry and put in last. Or 
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs may be added after the butter and 
cheese are melted. Have ready some nicely-toasted slices of bread 
cut in square or diamond-shaped pieces of any size desired, and 
serve at once on a hot pl-atter, as it is quite spoiled if allowed to get 
cold. The mustard may be omitted if desired, and some think it 
more delicate to dip the toast quickly, after buttering, into a shallow 
pan of boiling water ; have some cheese ready melted in a cup, and 
pour some over each slice. The best way to serve is to have little 
plates made hot, place a slice on each plate, and serve one to each 
person. The Welsh rare-bit makes a decidedly pretty course, served 
in little chafing-dishes in silver, or plated silver, about four inches 
square, one of which, standing in a plate, is to be served to each 
person at table. The reservoir contains boiling-hot water ; the little 
platter holds the slice of Welsh rare-bit, which is thus kept hot. A 
poached egg is sometimes placed on each slice, and it is then served 
under the name of Golden Buck. Poach the eggs in boiling water 
seasoned with a little salt, half gill vinegar and teaspoon butter, 
place a slice of fried or boiled bacon on top of the poached eggs 
and it is sent to table as Yorkshire Rare-hit. 

To Toast Cheese. — Grate or slice the desired quantity of cheese 
and put with a bit of butter into the cheese toaster, ^..-^^^m^Sfk 

which is prepared by filling the bottom with hot f||||,' ^g ^.j*. 

water. Our engraving illustrates a cheese toaster lili ""^^^ 

with hot water reservoir ; the cheese is melted in " cheese Toast^T^ 

an upper tin placed in the reservoir. If one of these useful little 
utensils cannot be had, melt the cheese in a pie tin on back ^"^ stove 
or range, or over a kettle of hot water. 

English Bread and Butter. — This is to serve with a cheese 
course. Cut an even slice off a large loaf of fresh home-made bread, 

left hand and arm, and with a sharp, Bread Knue. 

thin knife, cut an even slice not more than an eighth of inch thick j 
a little practice and a steady grasp of the bread and knife will en- 
able any one to produce regular whole slices ; fold each slice double 
Avith the butter inside, and serve them on a clean napkin. The 
slices may be rolled like a napkin, and served, in this 
.iijjljj case bake the bread in the following manner : When 
"^^^0 risen in the single loaf pan, invert it upon an ordi- 
Bread Pan. uary dripplug-pau, leaving the other ;pan still over 
the loaf, as illustrated, and bake as other bread, taking off upper 
pan at end of one hour to see if it is done. This bread is more 
easily rolled than any other, and is also prized for eating as well as 
rolling ; slice and roll as directed in Wedding Rolls. 




CHEESE. 139 

Fromage. — Beat two eggs very light, stir in a half pint cream 
and add a half pound grated cheese and a pinch of cayenne pepper ; 
pour into buttered soup plates, bake fifteen minutes and serve. 

Italian Balls. — Boil together tablespoon butter and eight of 
water, add pinch each salt and pepper, ten tablespoons flour and 
three of grated Parmesan cheese, stirring all the time, and boil a 
a minute or two. Take off and stir in thoroughly three well-beaten 
eggs. Divide mixture into balls and poach them in three-quarters 
pint boiling milk ; when done place on sieve to drain. Make a sauce 
of tablespoon butter, four of flour and one and a half pints milk ; 
let simmer for fifteen minutes or till it thickens. Put a layer of 
balls in a small baking dish, then a layer of grated cheese, then a 
layer of the sauce ; repeat till dish ifS full, strewing grated cheese 
over the top ; brown in oven and serve hot. Very delicious. 

Mock- Crab. — Break up a half pound soft rich cheese with a 
cheese-knife, or fork, mix with it a teaspoon dry mustard, a salt- 
spoon salt, half a saltspoon pepper and a dessert-spoon vinegar ; 
serve it cold with a plate of thin bread and butter or crisp crackers. 

RagamuMns. — Take raised biscuit dough, roll out to inch thick- 
ness, sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, roll iip like a jelly roll, 
cut in about inch slices from the end and place in pans, with cut 
side down ; let rise a little while and bake quickly. Baking powder 
dough may be used, placing at once in oven. Very nice. 

Spaghetti Butter. — Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a 
solid cord instead of a tube. Take two cups broken spaghetti, one 
each of minced cheese and milk, butter size of an egg, and two 
yolks of eggs. Throw the spaghetti into water that is already boil- 
ing, and salted. After cooking twenty minutes drain it dry, and 
put it into the buttered dish in which it is to be baked. Put the 
cheese and butter and half the milk into a saucej^an and stir them 
over the fire till the cheese is nearly melted ; mix the yolks with the 
rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, then add the whole to 
the spaghetti in the pan, and bake it a yellow brown in as short a 
time as possible. It loses its richness if cooked too long, through 
the toughening of the cheese. This butter ought to be yellow as gold. 

Scallopade. — Soak one cup dry bread-crumbs ia new or fresh 
milk. Beat into this three well-beaten eggs. Add tablespoon melted 
butter and a half pound grated cheese. Sprinkle the top with sifted 
bread-crumbs and bake in the oven a delicate brown.. Jl_ delicious 
relish to eat with thin bread and butter. 



J40 CONFECTIONERY, 



COI^FECTIO]>TEIlY. 



There are very few modern kitchens in which some cooking 
utensils may not be found convenient for making candy. A sauce- 
pan of tinned iron, with a handie and flaring sides, and a lip to 
facilitate the pouring of the contents, will be found best adapted to 
such use ; or a small iron or brass kettle will do if kept quite clean. 

Dissolve four pounds white sugar (granulated sugar is preferred) 
*.n one quart water, place this in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire 
for half an hour, pour into it a small quantity of gelatine and gum- 
arabic dissolved together, or white of an 
egg ; all the impurities which rise to the 
surface skim off at once. To make the 
clarifying process still more perfect, strain 
through a flannel bag. Another way to ^""^^^ 
clarify sugar or syrup is to put two pounds sugar, one pint water, and 
well-beaten white of an egg into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan. 
When sugar is dissolved place over the fire, and when it boils throw 
in a cup cold water, and do not stir the sugar after this is added. 
Bring to the boiling-point again, and then place the pan on back of 
stove or range to settle. Remove all scum and the syrup will be 
ready for use. The scum should be placed on a sieve, so th'^^ what 
syrup runs from it may be boiled up again ; this must also be well 
skimmed. It will take about twenty minutes for the sugar to dis- 
ttolve, and five minutes to boil. After clarifying confectioners pre- 
pare different degrees of sugars as follows : 




CONFECTIONERY. 141 



Candy or Thread Sugar. — Having clarified the sugar put syrup 
over the fire and let boil until smooth, dip a skimmer into sugar, 
touch it with thumb and and fore-finger, first dipping them in water, 
and instantly open them, when a fine short thread of sugar will 
form ; a few minutes' more boiling and the thread will be longer aiid 
stronger, and has attained the first degree. SouMe Sugar. — Boil 
the syrup still longer, then dip in the skimmer and blow oft" the syrup. 
If boiled long enough bubbles will form on the holes of the skim- 
mer. The second degree is reached. Feathered Sugar. — Boil still 
longer, again dip the skimmer, shake it, and give a sudden flirt ; if 
boiled enough the sugar will fly off" like small feathers or down. 
Crackling Sugar. — Boil still longer, till on dipping a stick into the 
pan and plunging into cold water the sugar snaps and becomes 
instantly hard. Caramel or Spun Sugar. — First boil one pound 
sugar and one gill water together very quickly over a clear fire, 
skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep boiling until 
it snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan of cold water. If 
it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right degree ; then 
squeeze in a little lemon-juice and let remain an instant on the fire; 
then set the pan into another of cold water, and the caramel is ready 
for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are often ornamented with 
this sugar, which with a fork should be spread over them in fine 
threads or network. A dish of light paste, tastefully arranged, 
looks very pretty with this sugar spun lightly over it, and it makes 
an elegant coloring for any sweetmeats. The sugar must be care- 
fully Avatched, and taken up the instant it is done. Unless one is 
very experienced and thoroughly understands the work, it is scared}'- 
worth while to attempt this elaborate ornament, yet if these direc- 
tions are carefully followed one may be successful. To make rock 
candy, boil the syrup a few moments, allow to cool, and crystalliza- 
tion takes place on the sides of the vessel. To make other candies, 
bring the syrup very carefully to such a degree of heat that the 
"threads" which drop from the spoon when raised into the colder 
air will snap like glass. When this stage is reached add a teaspoon 
of vinegar or cream tartar to prevent " graining," and pour into pans 
as directed in the recipes which follow. Butter should be put in 
when candy is almost done, and flavors are more delicate when 
added just after taking from the fire. To make round stick candies, 
pull, and roll into shape with well-floured hands as soon as cool 



142 



CONFECTIONERY. 




enough to handle. In making candy into flat sticks, squares, or any 
shape, indent it when partially cool with a warm knife rubbed with 
butter, and when cold it will separate easily. Colored candies are 
often injurious, and sometimes even poisonous, and should be 
avoided. In making meringues, trifles and kisses, use fine powdered 
sugar (" Confectioners' XXX " is the best grade) 
and provide a cone-shaped bag of strong, heavy 
linen or ticking — or for once using, strong 
brown paper will do — through a hole in the 
small end put a funnel-shaped tin tube one- 
half inch in diameter at the small end, and pro- 
vided with a flange at the other to prevent it Meringue Bag. 
from slipping quite through (these tubes are of various shapes for 
kisses, trifles, lady-fingers, etc.), tie the small end of the bag firmly 
around the tube, and holding bag in right hand squeeze the mixture 
through in shapes desired, using a good deal of pressure if cakes 
are to be large, but if small very little ^nll do. Bake in a very mod- 
erate oven, or let dry in cool oven for two hours. The oven for 
meringues, kisses, etc., should be slower than for angel cake, and 
kept at an even temperature ; if meringues are exposed to much 
heat they will be spoiled. When powdered almonds are to be used, 
they should be thoroughly dried in the open air after blanching, and 
they will pulverize more easily. In making macaroons or drops, or 
pulling butter-scotch or tafi'y, butter hands lightly to prevent stick- 
ing. Flouring the hands is apt to give an unpleasant taste to 
the candy. 

Blanched almonds should always be prepared the day before 
wanted that they may become perfectly dry before using. To blanch 
them, shell and put them into hot water after it comes to a boil, and 
let boil a few minutes, then throw them into cold water, slip off the 
skins and dry in the open air. Never dry them in the oven, which 
takes away the oil. Shelled almonds are more economical for use 
in cakes or confectionery. One pound of unshelled almonds only 
makes six and one-half ounces or one coffee-cupful when shelled, 
while the shelled are generally only double the price, and sometimes 
not that per pound. The Princess is the best variety to buy in the 
shell. The bitter almond is considered injurious to animal life and 
should be used with great caution. Of the shelled sweet almonds 
the Jordan is the finest, though the Sicely is good. To prepr.re 



CONFECTIONERY. 143 



Uftk 



cocoanut make an incision through the meat at one of the holes in 
the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen 
the meat, crack, take out meat, and set pieces in heater or in a cool, 
open oven overnight, or for a few hours, to 
dry — or better in open air, as too much heat 
dries the oil — then grate ; if all is not used, 
sprinkle with sugar (after grating) and 
spread out in a cool, dry place, and it will 
keep for weeks. Dessicated cocoanut may 
always be used in place of the fresh, first 
moistening slightly with milk. If one is at 
hand use the labor-saving grater for grating 
cocoa-nut and almonds, for which it is de- " Labor-saving Grater. 
signed, as well as for pumpkins, horse-radish, and such other arti- 
cles as need treatment on a coarse grater. It is fastened to a strong 
frame which is screwed to a table, and as will be readily seen does 
its work with great rapidity. This is as great an improvement in its 
way as the modern egg beater is over a spoon. For sending away 
home-made confections or bride's cake very pretty little satin satch- 
ets are made, which are of course much more highly prized by the 
recipients than the fancy boxes for that purpose 
to be had of confectioners. The white wire 
candy tongs illustrated are an excellent substi- 
tute for silver, where the latter can not be candy Tongs 
afforded, for use in serving candies provided for dessert. 




Peanut Candy. — Boil two pounds brown sugar, one gill good 
molasses and half pint water, until it hardens in cold water when 
dropped from a spoon, add two teaspoons vanilla, teaspoon soda 
(dry), and four quarts skinned peanuts (measured before they are 
shelled). Turn into shallow, well buttered pans, and press down 
smooth with wooden spoon. When partially cold cut into strips. 
All kinds of nuts may be thus used. Or fill buttered tin tray to 
depth of about an inch with nuts, and pour over just enough of 
candy mixture to barely cover ; cool and mark as directed. Or 
boil pound of white or "Coffee C " sugar and two gills water (general 
rule for all candies is gill water to half pound sugar) and a pinch 
cream of tartar, dissolved in hot water. Test and use as above. 

Cocoanut Pattiea. — Grate a good fresh cocoa-nut on a grater, 
letting none of the rind fall. Spread the cocoa-nut thus grated on 



144 CONFECTIONERY. 



a dish and let it stand in some cool, dry place two days to dry grad- 

^^^^^^^^^^ ually. Add to it double its weight of sifted 

^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ powdered sugar, the whites of six eggs, welt- 

^^ ^^gj« liffi '"^A ^^f whipped, and a cup flour to every pound 

' "cocoa-nut Patties. sugar. Drop tho mlxturc ou a baking-tin, u 

spoonful at a time, or into drop-cake tins. Bake in very gentle 

oven about twenty minutes, take from tins while warm and when 

cold put away in close tin box or can. 

Bergamot Drops. — One pound sifted granulated sugar, one gil 
bergamot water, mixed well over the fire about five minutes. Drop 
in very round drops on paper. 

Centennial Drops. — White of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, 
quarter pound pulverized sugar, half teaspoon baking powder ; flavor 
with lemon ; butter tins and drop with teaspoon about three incnes 
apart ; bake in a slow oven and serve with ice-cream. This is also 
a very nice recipe for icing. 

Chocolate Drops. — Scrape or grate chocolate to a powder, and 
mix one ounce of it with each pound sugar used ; make into paste 
with cold water and boil up gently. Drop on thick white paper 
from a spoon to cool and dry. Coffee Drops made same way, allow- 
ing one ounce finely powdered coffee to one pound sugar. 

Cinnamon Drops. — Put one ounce cinnamon in a mortar, sift- 
ing it afterwards through a fine hair or silk sieve ; mix with it over 
the stove a pound loaf sugar moistened with a very little water. 
Take the mixture up in a teaspoon and drop on stiff white writing 
paper. Let them get cold and they will come off easily. Make 
Clove Drops same way. 

Cocoa-nut Drops. — One pound cocoa-nut, half pound powdered 
sugar, and the white of an egg ; work all together and roll into little 
balls in the hand ; bake on buttered tins. 

Fresh Damson Drops. — Bake some damsons, skin, stone and 
strain through a sieve. Mix enough sifted powdered sugar to make 
a thin paste, drop on paper and let them get quite dry ; then put 
them on a sieve, wetting it a little or they will stick. They must 
again dry on a stove and be kept in a box. 

Ginger Drops. — Pound and sift as much ginger as you wish 
the drops to taste of, and stir with one pound loaf sugar and a little 
water over the fire until it boils up. Drop and dry on paper. 

Lemon Drops. — Squeeze the juice from six good lemons and 
add sifted loaf sugar until so stiff it can hardly be stirred ; put in 
shallow saucepan and stir over the fire five minutes. Drop from a 
spoon on thick paper. 



CONFECTIONERY. 145 



Lemon and Peppermint Drops. — Set a quantity of granulated 
sugar and a little water over the fire in a saucepan with a lip, in the 
proportion of two ounces water to one pound sugar. It must not 
come to a full boil, but remove from stove just as the bubbles that 
denote the boiling point is reached begin to form ; let cool a little, 
stirring rapidly, add strong essence lemon or peppermint to taste, 
and drop as uniformly as possible on sheets of manilla paper, tilting 
the vessel slightly and stroking off the drops from the lip with bit 
of stiff wire or a spoon. Keep in a warm place for a few hours to 
dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting juice of fresh 
fruits for essence, or using any other essence preferred. 

Orange Drops. — Squeeze out the juice of three good lemons, 
adding some sifted powdered sugar ; grate six small sweet oranges, 
put all in a shallow pan on the fire till it is of a nice thickness, stir 
continuously with a wooden spoon five or six minutes. Take the 
mixture from the fire and drop it on thick Avhite paper in small 
drops. 

Orgeat Drops. — Pound well in a mortar four ounces blanched 
almonds, moistening Avith a little water, and make a paste. Flavor 
with orange flower water, strain the whole through a cloth, moisten 
with half pound " owdered sugar and form into drops on paper to 
dry. 

Strawberry Drops. — One-half pound each juice and powdered 
sugar, well-frothed whites of two eggs ; mix all together and drop 
on tins, putting in very cool oven to dry. Any Fresh Fruit Drops 
made same way. 

Evsrton Cream Candy. — Squeeze juice of one large lemon into 
a cup ; boil one and one-half pounds moist white sugar, two ounces 
butter, one and a half cups water, together with half the rind of the 
lemon, and when done (which may be known by its becoming quite 
crisp when dropped into cold water) set aside till boiling has ceased 
and then stir in the juice of the lemon, butter a dish and pour in 
about an inch thick ; when cool take out peel (which may be dried), 
pull until white, draw out into sticks and check about four inches 
long with a knife. If you have no lemons, take two tablespoons 
vinegar and two teaspoons lemon extract. The fire must be quick 
and the candy stirred all the time. 

French Cream Candy. — Put into a saucepan one pint water to 
each pound sugar ; boil carefull", for upon this depends the success 
of the. candies ; when it has boiled ten minutes (do not stir while 
boiling) it is time to trv it; drop from the spoon into a bowl of ice 
water and if when it falls to the bottom you can take it up between 
the thumb and finger into a soft ball, which must not be sticky, it is 
ac the right point. Set from the fire, and if when cool a thin, jelly 
10 



146 CONFECTIONERY. 



like film forms over the surface, it is properly done, and the candy 
may be made ; but if the coating over the top seems at all sugary 
aud the candy is wanted creamy and nice, a few spoonfulls of water 
must be added and the syrup returned to the fire and boiled until 
the proper consistency is reached, which test as before. Do not let 
it become the least brittle ; if it does, add water and cook again. A 
pinch of cream tartar helps to check the tendency to return to sugar. 
When the syrup is perfectly done and cooled so that the finger may 
be borne in it, beat rapidly with a spoon, and in ten minutes it 
should be a white paste resembling lard, which can be worked like 
bread dough. This is the foundation for all fine candies and is called 
by French confectioners Fondant. The simplest French candies are 
made from this by coloring yellow and flavoring with lemon, or pink 
and flavoring with raspberry, and Avorking into balls, cones, shells, 
grooved cones, or any shape fancy dictates, and letting them stand 
until they harden. Or into the jjink colored fondant work chopped 
English walnuts, flavor with vanilla, press into oiled paper cases an 
inch wide and deep, and three or four inches long, and when firm 
turn out and cut into cubes for Walnut Creams. Or use chopped 
almond, leaving the paste white, flavor with vanilla, and make 
Vanilla Almond Cream. Work into a piece of the paste or fondant 
chopped almonds, citron, a few currants and seedless raisins, flavor 
with lemon, vanilla or raspberry, shape in paper forms and the result 
is T'utti Frutti Candy. One should bring into use the inventive 
faculties and with the above as helps make as many other varieties 
as wished. A very handsome variety is called Ribbon Cream Candy 
and is made thus : Divide a quantity of the paste prepared as 
directed into three equal parts, leaving one white, color one pink 
with cochineal and another brown with melted chocolate, flavoring 
each to taste ; divide the brown and white into two parts, making into 
strips an inch and a half wide ; make the pink also into a strip of 
same width and length, which will leave it twice as thick as the 
others. Lay a strip of the brown on a piece of manilla, or buttered 
or waxed paper, then a strip of white on that, then the pink, then 
the white, and finish with the brown ; press lightly to make them 
adhere but do not squeeze out of shape ; leave a few hours to harden, 
trim smoothly with a knife and cut crosswise into slices half an inch 
thick, lay on waxed or manilla paper to dry, turning occasionally, 
and pack away in boxes. If the paste becomes hard while working, 
let it stand over hot water a few minutes ; or if wished fresh for 
dessert, do not divide the colors but form 
into a small brick, as in cut, with brown 
layer first, then the pink, with white on top. 
Place on small fruit plate and serve byl 
cutting in thin slices. Cream Walnuts x)r 
Almonds are made by shelling and drying »''>'""' cream candy. 

the nuts and then dipping into the paste, first melted over boil 




CONFECTIONmiY. 



147 



ing water until it is like cream. If the nut shows through the cream 
it IS too hot and must be set out of the water and beaten until cool and 
thick enough to thoroughly coat the nuts. If it hardens return to 
the boiling water. Dry the creamed nuts on manilla paper. 
Another variety of nut candy is made by rolling the paste into balls 
and placing half a whole kernel of walnut, almond, or other nuts on 
each side, pressing it in until it adheres firmly. Chocolate Creams 
are made by boiling a half pound sugar and three tablespoons thick, 
sweet cream, till it makes a soft ball in water ; let it cool, then beat 
till it is very white, flavor with a few drops vanilla and make into 
balls size of a small marble ; warm some unsweetened chocolate and 
mix it with a piece of the melted paste (using more chocolate than 
paste) until quite smooth and thick enough to coat the creams. Drop 
the balls into this with a fork and take them out to dry on waxed 
paper. 

French Cream Candy (Uncooked). — Used by all confectioners. 
Mix whites of two eggs and their bulk in water in a large bowl ; beat 
very well, add a dessert-spoon vanilla and about two pounds "XXX" 
confectioners' sugar finest grade of powdered sugar), well sifted, 
beat well, and the paste is ready Take one-half pound dates, 
remove stones, put in a piece of tho candy paste and roll each one 
in granulated sugar. For Fig Candy ^ split one-half pound figs 
and place a layer of the dough on a board, first sprinkled well with 
powdered sugar to prevent its adhering, then a layer of figs, again a 
layer of dough, and cut in squares. Nuts of any kind may be made 
up into candy by using the meats for the foundation or inside of 
little balls of paste, and then roll in coarse sugar ; set each kind out 
in a cool place to harden. For Chocolate Creams roll any number 
of balls size of small marbles from the dough and when they are 
hardened dip with a fork into somo baker's chocolate melted on the 
stove. Be careful not to allow it to boil ; better to melt in a little 
cup placed in pan of hot water on the stove. Cocoa-nut Candy 
may be made by rolling out another portion of the dough on the 
floured board, sprinkle vath cocoa-nut, roll a few times with the 
roller, and cut into squares. A mixture of cocoa-nut and nuts 
chopped fine makes a delicious candy. ¥ ox English Walnut Candy 
split the walnuts, shape some of the dough into round flat balls, 
place a half of the nut on each side and press firmly. Use hickory- 
nut meats for Hickory-nut Candy. This candy is now being made 
in society circles a good deal, as there is no cooking to be done and 
it is very easy and clean work. A dollar's worth of all the ingredi- 
ents together will make many pounds of candy. 

Lemon Cream Candy. — Steep grated peel of one lemon in juice 
of two one hour and strain, squeezing cloth hard to get out all the 
strength ; boil six pounds best white sugar with three cups water 
until it hardens in cold water; stir in the lemon juice, boil one min- 



148 CONFECTIONERY. 



ute, add one teaspoon dry soda, stirring in well, and turn out upon 
broad, shallow, buttered dishes. Pull as soon as can be handled in- 
to long white ropes and cut into lengths when brittle. Use same re- 
cipe, substituting vanilla flavoring instead oi lemon ioiVanillaCreajn 
Candy. 

Chocolate Caramels. — Dissolve one and two-thirds pints granu- 
lated sugar in three gills of cream or rich milk to which has been 
added a pinch of pulverized cinnamon and quarter teaspoon of 
cream tartar dissolved in a little hot water. Add nine tablespoons 
grated chocolate melted by placing in a bowl set into hot water or 
over the teakettle. Boil the mixture rapidly, stirring constantly until 
a bit of it dropped into cold water will not adhere to the teeth 
when eaten. Take care not to let it pass the right, point, as the 
delicacy of the caramel is its charm. Pour out to cool into wide, 
shallow tins, in a layer about half an inch thick. Do not scrape 
the sides or bottom of dish, as the caramel next the kettle is very 
likely to become grained and if mixed with the rest is injurious. 
Scrape this paste into separate tins. The tins should be well but- 
tered. When nearly cold cut candy into squares with a rule (a 
thin strip of steel or hardwood with one side sharpened to a dull 
edge) having first buttered the edge. It requires some experience 
and skill to make first-class caramels, and they should always be 
used when fresh as they spoil quickly. For Pine-Apple^ Vanilla or 
Lemon Caramels, flavor above very highly with any of the flavors 
wished. For Cocoanut Caramels, when syrup is a soft wax when 
tested in cold water, sift in slowly a gill and a half finely-grated 
cocoanut, stirring constantly and finish as above. Maple sugar 
may be used in any of the recipes .instead of the white. For Mo- 
lasses Chocolate Caramels, take a pint and a half best New Orleans 
molasses in place of sugar and water, and add chocolate just before 
it is ready to turn out ; butter size of an ugg may be used, and stir 
only when chocolate is put in. 

Chocolate Macaroons. — Blanch and pound in a mortar with a 
little white of an egg, half pound shelled almonds; add pint and 
one-third pulverized sugar, one quarter grated rind of a lemon, 
whites of four eggs, six tablespoons grated chocolate, and drop with 
teaspoon on paper (maniUa) lined pan, or use meringue bag as in 
meringues ; bake in quick oven, sprinkle with sugar if wished. For 
Almond ilfacarooTis omit chocolate. 'For Lemon Macaroons make as 
last, using juice of one lemon instead of rind. For Cocoanut Maca- 
roons use quarter of a pound each grated cocoanut and sugar in 
place of chocolate and thin to the thickness of first recipe with the 
milk from the cocoanut. For Snoio Macaroons use scant pint pul- 
verized sugar and whites of two eggs thoroughly beaten together 
and flavored as wished, in place of chocolate in first recipe ; make 
into egg-shaped balls and bake as above. For Siciss Macaroons b jii 



CONPEOTIONERY. 149 



two-thirds pints pulverized sugar and gill and a half water till it 
threads, remove from fire, stir it well, scraping down the sides ; after 
four minutes add whites of three eggs, beaten thoroughly, then a 
smooth paste made by pounding three-quarters of a pound almonds 
with a little milk, and baking as above. Two can be put together 
as meringues if wished, using a little white of egg to make them 
stick. For Vanilla Macaroons make as first recipe, using one table- 
spoon vanilla sugar in place of chocolate. 

Cocoanut Cones. — Pound one pound blanched and shelled al- 
monds in a mortar with whites of twelve eggs till smooth. Prepare 
and grate three large cocoanuts, and with three pounds sugar, work 
into the pounded almonds and eggs, mold into cones size of an 
English walnut, place on buttered paper a little distance apart and 
bake in a, moderate oven. Dust with powdered sugar before baking 
if liked; or put in saucepan pound each butter and grated cocoa- 
nut with whites of tvvo eggs; cook fifteen minutes, stirring all the 
time and turn out on marble slab ; when cool mold into cones or 
balls and bake on a greased pan to a delicate brown in a moderate 
oven. For Cocoanut Cream Candy, boil pound white sugar and half 
pint water and scant quarter teaspoon cream tartar (dissolved in hot 
water) and flavoring as wished, till, when tested in cold water, it 
forms a soft ball when taking out of the water with the fingers. Take 
off fire and cool a few moments in kettle ; then with wooden paddle 
rub and scrape it against sides of kettle till it becomes milky, when 
quickly stir in four ounces grated cocoanut. Stir a few moments 
longer, then pour into wide shallow pans lined with white paper, 
with the paper projecting a little at each end. When cold lift by 
paper from pan and cut the candy into squares or as wished. Moist- 
en paper slightly and tear it off. For a Nut Cream Candy use any 
chopped nuts wished in place of the grated cocoanut. For Cocoa- 
nut Drops rub half pint each butter and sugar, add yolks of two eggs 
beaten with two teaspoons cold water, pint and a half flour and one 
grated cocoanut ; beat well and drop with a teaspoon on a buttered 
plate and bake in a quick oven. For Lemon Drops use chopped 
peel of two lemons. 

Favoritas. — Dissolve one pound best granulated gum-arabic in 
three gills of water by stirring constantly over a moderate fire, not 
permitting it to come to a boiling jDoint. When thoroughly dissolved 
pour through a wire strainer, wash out kettle, return the strained 
liquid, add twelve ounces of pulverized sugar and two gills of water. 
Boil down carefully to a very thick liquid. It is safer to do this in a 
custard kettle, but the process is slower and tedious as it must be con- 
stantly stirred. It must be so thick that it will only pour very slow- 
ly from the kettle. Remove from fire, add flavor and color (if color 
is desired) and set aside to settle. Prepare on molding trays as de- 
scribed hereafter, making the indentations in the usual form of gum- 



150 CONFECTIONERY. 



drops, and when the contents of the kettle are cold and thick like 
honey, skim the surface, and fill molds with the clear liquid. When 
filled sift a little fine sugar or starch powder over the tops of the 
drops, and put away to harden. Leave them undisturbed for two 
or three days, then remove from the powder, and if they are suffi- 
ciently firm to bear handling put them into a hair seive, and gently 
shake until the particles of powder are removed, then brush them 
with a broad soft brush. When thoroughly dry they may be 
crystalized or left plain. The usual flavors are lemon, rose or 
wintergreen. 

The molding tray or box is shallow and should be filled with 
the finest corn-starch or sugar dust, Smooth the surface with a 
rule, and make indentations in the powder with any desired pattern. 
The glass top of a cruet bottle, the end of a wooden handle, abutton 
mold, or any convenient article may be used for the purpose. 
The impregsion should be as smooth as it is possible to make 
them. 

Icicles. — Cream two-thirds ot a pint pulverized sugar with one 
gill butter, add well beaten yolks of five eggs, three-quarters of a 
pint flour (more if needed to make a stiff batter), level teaspoon 
cinnamon, half a nutmeg grated, and juice of half a lemon, and last 
the well beaten whites. Heat wafer-tongs over a moderate fire, 
grease with a bit of butter tied in a piece of muslin, and put in two 
tablespoons of the batter, shut up the tongs, turn often and when 
cake is delicately browned take out with a knife, dust with pulver- 
ized sugar and roll it around a smooth round stick, half an inch in 
diameter, and when cold slip the icicle off. In lieu of tongs, drop 
the batter on a buttered pan (dusted with flour and then shaken off) 
spread out very thin, bake a delicate brown, and roll as above. 
Serve with ices and ice-creams. They are more delicious, when filled 
with whipped cream, the ends being closed with a Favorita, or any 
small preserved fruit, and are then known as Creamed Icicles, For 
Almond Icicles, pound a tea-cup of shelled and blanched almonds, 
with a little milk, to a fine paste, add two-thirds pint sugar, and 
milk enough till batter will drop from spoon. Stir in lightly the 
well-frothed whites of three eggs, and half a tablespoon vanilla 
sugar. Finish as above. 

Mallowines — Dissolve pound of clean gum arable in quart water ; 
strain, add pound of refined sugar, and place over fire, stirring con- 
tinually until sugar is dissolved and mixture has become the con- 
sistency of honey. Next, add gradually whites of eight eggs well 
beaten, stirring mixture all the time, until it loses its stickiness and 
does not adhere to the fingers when touched. Pour into a pan 
or box slightly dusted with starch, dust the top, and when cool di- 
vide into small squares. 



CONFECTIONERY. 



151 



Kisses. — Beat wnites of four smaii eggs to a high, firm froth, 
stir into it a half pound sifted powdered sugar, two teaspoons at a 
time, flavor with essence of lemon or rose, and beat very light ; then 
squeeze through the meringue or confectioner's bag heretofore 
described (using tube like one in cut if you have it), or drop 
half the size of an egg a little more than an inch apart on ma- 
nilla paper spread over a half inch board, previously soaked in 
cold water, and place in moderate oven. As soon as they begin to 
look yellowish take them out. 

Almond Macaroons. — One pound blanched almonds ground 
very fine with a little sugar to keep from oiling, rub whites of twelve 
eggs, without whipping, into the almonds until perfectly smooth. 
Add one and one-half pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces corn- 
starch and two ounces flour, stirring each in grad- 
ually and thoroughly ; make into balls with a knife 
or meringue bag, place on ungreased papers on 
Macaroons, tius aud wlth a pastry brush dampen each one and 

pat into shape before putting in oven. Chocolate Macaroons are 
made in exactly the same manner,working two 
ounces chocolate cooked with one-half cup water* 
and one ounce sugar into the almond macaroon Pastry Brush. 

})aste when ready to make into balls. Make IlicTcory-mot and Pecan 
Macaroons in same way, taking the finely-chopped nut meats instead 
of almonds, and omitting the flour, using four ounces corn-starch. 

u^emon Macaroons. — One pound powderea sugar, four eggs 
whipped very light, juice of three lemons and grated peel of one, 
one heaping cup flour, heaping teaspoon baking powder, one-half 
teaspoon nutmeg ; butter the hands, take up small lumps of the 
mixture and make into balls the size of a walnut. Bake in brick 
oven on sheets of manilla paper, placing them more than two inches 
apart. 

Pyramid of Macaroons. — Boil loaf sugar to the candy point 
(see preface candy), rub butter over the outside 
of the tin or paper form, set firmly on a plate 
or table, and begin at the bottom by putting a 
row macaroons around it, sticking them to- 
§«ether with the prepared sugar, then adding 
another row, and so on until finished. When 
the cement is cold the pyramid may be taken 
from tha form. Kisses, or cocoa-nut drops, be- 
ing lighter, are more difficult to make m this 
foi:m than macaroons. 

Weringues. — One pound powdered sugar, whites of nine eggs ; 
Wliip eggs until dish can be inverted without their falling ofl", and 
<hen simply add the sugar, two teaspoons at a time, incorporating it 




Macaroon Pyramid. 



152 CONFECTIONERY. 




thoroughly, but stirring as little as possible ; put together quickly 
and when properly made the dough will stand up stiffly if cleft 
with a knife. The dough, or a part of it, is sometimes colored 
with cochineal ; have ready either hickory or maple boards three- 
fourths of an inch thick, to fit oven, soak them fifteen minutes 
cold water and cover them with strips of heavy manilla paper 
about two and a half inches wide ; on these drop the mixture from 
the end of a dessert-spoon (or use the meringue bag), giving the 
meringues the form of an egg, dropping them about two inches apart 
on the paper, and bake till a light brown. They should bake very 
slowly, as the longer they are baked the thicker the crust will be. 
Leave the oven door open for a half hour at least. 
Take up each strip of paper by the two ends, turn 
it gently on the table, and with a small spoon 
take out the soft part of each meringue, strew 
over them some sifted sugar and return to oven 
bottom side up to brown. This recipe makes four, 
dozen double meringues and they may be kept for 
weeks. When Avanted for table, fill with whipped - T^^ ^ 
cream, ice-cream or jelly, place two of them 
together so as to inclose the filling and serve. To 
vary their appearance, fii^ely chopped almonds or currants may be 
strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over, and they may 
be garnished with any bright colored preserve. Or, instead of mak- 
ing above shape, form the meringue dough into half balls about six 
inches in diameter; dry them in the oven very 
slowly, so that the crust is about one-third of an 
inch thick. When emptied of the soft interiors 
and when cold, two shells are placed on a platter 
like an open clam shell, and the whipped cream 
(already set by being on ice) is banked between them, as shown in 
cut, reaching as high as suits the fancy. The cream may be deco- 
rated with berries, sliced nuts or candied fruits, or served without 
ornamentation. 

Marsh-Malloiu. — Take one pound each gum arable and fine 
sugar, half a pint of the decoction of marsh-mallow root, two or 
three drops essence of neroli, or a small quantity of orange flower 
water and whites of six eggs ; pulverize the gum arable very finely, 
after which place it in a round-bottomed basin (which must be very 
clean and bright). Add to it one and a halfpints water, place it upon 
a slom fire to dissolve, stirring it constantly 
with a wooden spatula or paddle to prevent its 
adhering to the bottom and scorching. When 
it_ is entirely dissolved strain through a fine 
wire strainer into a clean basin. Now add the 
decoction of marsh-mallow and sugar, place over a slow fire (one cov- 
ered with a thin layer of ashes), and cook to a thick consistence, stir- 





CONFECTIONERY. 153 



ring constantly ;adcl well-whipped whites and continue stirring without 
intermission in order to whiten it and also to prevent its sticking to 
the pan, which w^ould discolor and entirely spoil the paste. Test it 
by placing the back of the hand upon the paste ; if it does not 
adhere to it, it is done. Add the neroli or the orange flower water, 
continue to stir a few minutes longer, then place on marble slab well 
dusted with starch or sugar powder. Flatten out and dust with 
starch powder, and when it has become cold cut it into strips or 
pieces. Keep in tin boxes well powdered with starch in order to pre- 
vent it from sticking. Cover boxes tightly so as to keep the air from 
it as much as possible. This is the genuine and original marsh-mal- 
low paste, the best article that can be made. Some dispense with the 
mallow root on account of its unpleasant taste and in lieu thereof use 
apple juice, or a decoction of apples, which is supposed to be equally 
good and to possess the same healing qualities as the mallow. Others 
again use only pure water in the preparation of this paste. It is then 
simTpily pate n'e ffomme, although its appearance is precisely the same 
as that of mallow paste. It is also sometimes flavored with extract of 
vanilla or raspberry juice, and sold aspate de guimauve. 

White Noiirjat. — Ten pounds white sugar, half gallon strained 
honey, three pounds blanched almonds, one tablespoon oil of lemon. 
After the sugar is melted and strained cook until nearly done ; have 
the honey boiling and pour on the sugar in the kettle ; set it on the 
fire again and when it boils up well pour out on a greased marble ; 
add the oil of lemon. When cool enough to handle turn it up and 
bleach on a candy-hook ; when white take off and spread it on the 
marble and sprinkle the blanched almonds over it, fold up and 
spread out again, adding more almonds. Continue working it over 
the same way until all the almonds are worked in, then form into a 
long bar and cut up in square pieces. 

Pop-corn Balls. — Dissolve one ounce white gum arable in half 
pint water, strain, add one pound granulated sugar and boil until 
when a little is cooled in a saucer it becomes so thick as to be 
stirred with difficulty. Pour over a half bushel of freshly popped 
corn and when well stirred up the kernels will adhere in a mass ; 
form into balls by pressing with the floured hands. Ordinary mo- 
lasses may be used for this purpose boiled to same degree, no gum 
being necessary. Pop-corn Cake is prepared the same, putting the 
mass while warm into tins and pressing with rollers into thin sheets, 
afterwards dividing them into small square cakes. 

Everton Taify. — Use brown sugar, and to each cup take quarter 
pound very best butter ; put into a clean, bright basin or pan and 
melt together over a brisk fire, stirring constantly with a wooden 
spatula, adding a few drops lemon juice. Ten minutes' boiling will 
bring it to the desired degree, the cracky Avhich may be known by 
dropping a little upon a cold plate or saucer ; if it hardens at once, 



.154 CONFECTIONERY. 



it is done ; add lemon or vanilla flavoring just before the cooking is 
completed ; pour it into buttered pans or on a marble table (slightly 
buttered), and, when cool enough, cut or mark it with a greased 
knife into square tablets ; loosen it from the marble by running a 
knife under it before it becomes entirely cold. This is the real 
English recipe and and is the favorite confection of all true Britons. 

Hickory-nut Taify. — Two pints maple sugar, half pint water, 
or just enough to dissolve sugar ; boil until it becomes brittle ^|^^ 
by dropping in cold water ; just before pouring out add table- ^^S^ 
spoon vinegar; having prepared the hickory-nut meats in p^'y^*"- 
halves, butter patty pans well, line with the meats, and pour taffy 
over them. 

French Trifles. — These are made same as kisses, but the board 
upon which they are baked should not be wet, that they may 
harden through. A cut of tube to be used in confectioner's 
bag when shaping them is here given, 

Siigar Threads. — Boil sugar until brittle, put a few drops on 
buttered form and draAV out the thread. If sufficiently cooked the 
thread can be twisted into any shape. If it becomes too cold to 
work, heat again. 

Kiss Wafers. — Half pint blanched bitter almonds, heaping 
cup powdered sugar, whites of six eggs, one-third cup flour, two 
tablespoons corn-starch ; blanch the almonds and pound them in a 
mortar, adding as soon as they are broken the white of an egg. 
Pound until very fine. When there is a smooth paste add the sugar, 
a little at a time, the whites of two eggs, one at a time, and the flour 
and corn-starch. When thoroughly mixed, add by degrees the three 
remaining whites. Butter the bottom of a flat baking pan and put 
the mixture on it in spoonfuls ; spread it very thin, especially in the 
center, and bake in a quick oven. The moment the cakes are taken 
from the oven roll into the shape of cornucopias. If allowed to 
cool they cannot be rolled, and for this reason it is best to bake only 
half a dozen at a time. When all are shaped, fill with the kiss mix- 
ture made by beating whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and stir- 
ring into them, lightly, four tablespoons powdered sugar. Place the 
wafers in a warm oven for twenty minutes or half an hour, to dry. 
With the quantities given two dozen can be made. 

Cochineal Coloring. — This is said to be quite harmless and is 
made by taking one ounce each powdered cochineal, cream tartar, 
two drachms alum and a half pint water. Boil cochineal, water and 
cream tartar till reduced one-half, add the alum and put into small 
bottles. Use to color candies, cakes, blanc-mange and jellies. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 155 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



There are very few articles of food prepared for the table that 
80 completely unite ornamental and appetizing with substantial and 
nutritious qualities as creams and custards. Milk and eggs are con- 
centrated and complete foods, and the fact that the arts of cookery 
have given them a feathery lightness does not change their 
character as an attractive and valuable food, for it must not be for- 
gotten that the preparation of food in an attractive form is not only 
an appetizer but a stimulant to digesti jn. 

To secure a creamy lightness always beat eggs in earthen or 
stone ware, never in tin. Beat through and through the eggs sharp- 
ly, whites and yolks separately, adding whites last. If gelatine is 
to be used for cream, soak for an hour or more in a small quantity 
of milk or cold water in a bowl set in top of teakettle. When dis- 
solved remove custard from stove and pour gelatine into it. The 
usual proportion for custard is four eggs, two gills sugar and salt- 
spoon salt, to quart of milk. Bake custard in a dish or cups set in 
a pan of hot water, until firm in the centre. A moderate oven is re, 
quired. If too hot the custard will turn in part to whey. Its deli, 
cacy depends on a moderate heat. Yolks alone make the finest 
boiled custard and floats, but the yolks should be strained through 
a fine sieve after beating. "When custard is done the whipped 
whites may be placed over the top while hot. Double Cream is cream 
which has stood twenty-four hours, and which will all "whip." Always 
boil milk in an iron kettle with another inside, the latter lined 



156 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




Custard Kettle. 



with tin), or in a pan or pail set in a kettle of hoihng water ; when 
the milk reaches the boiling point, which is 
shown by a slight foam rising on top, add 
the sugar which cools it so that the eggs 
will not curdle when added; or, another 
convenient way is to mix the beaten and 
strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then 
add gradually several spoons of the boiling 
milk, until the eggs and sugar are heated 
through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. 
Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a 
little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail imme- 
diately in cold water or turn into a cold dish, as it curdles 
if allowed to remain in a hot basin ; add flavoring extracts 
after removing from the stove. Peach leaves, vanilla 
beans, or laurel leaves give a fine flavor, but must be 
boiled in the milk and taken out before other ingredients 
are added. The only spices used in flavoring custards 
are nutmeg and cinnamon. Lemon is liked by many but 
the white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and 
the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way 
is to rub the rind ofl" with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar 
thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called " zest," and is 
used, pounded fine, for creams, etc. Boiled custards are very diffi- 
cult to make, and must have closest attention until finished. Cus- 
tards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar, 
and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling. 

In making Charlotte-russe it is not necessary to add gelatine. 
The filling may be made of well-whipped cream, flavored and sweet- 
ened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater" to do the 
whipping. When other ingredients are to be combined with the 
whipped cream for filling, leave the cream on ice until all are ready, 
t hen turn cre am into the mixture, whip through gently, let stand a 
d ^^-^=== ^ few minutes and whip again, keeping it on ice till it 
seems to be thickening, when it should be turned 
into a plain mold previously lined with cake, which 
should also be kept on ice until ready to serve. Any deep pan will 
do, which should not be wet or greased but lined with clean manilla 
paper. If sponge cake is used cut in sheets to fit bottom and sides 





CEEAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



167 



smoothly. When lady-fingers are used the ingenuity of the cook 
may be brought into play in their arrangement, placing them diago- 
nally around the sides, forming a star or rosette in the bottom, cut- 
ting into desired shapes to carry out any design. 

A large charlotte-russe could easily be given the form of a fort 
by molding in deep conical shaped pan, leaving holes at intervals 
in the sides of th§ cake lining, and after turning out inserting there- 
in lady-fingers to represent cannon, ornamenting top with darts or 
arrows of isinglass with bits of jelly on the points. A full slice of 
pine-apple divided into eighths and the rind turned in the center, 
leaving the points to turn out in the form of a star, filling the center 
with whipped cream, makes a handsome finish for the top of char- 
lotte-russe or a pine-apple cake. Icing the sides is also an improve- 
ment; in short, ornament in any manner as fancy may dictate, with 
candied fruits, nuts, etc., which may be made to adhere to the cake 
by first dipping in syrup (sugar boiled to crackling). To make the 
g^— — - — "— r^ :^H c^^Q lining retain its place firmly, brush edges 
Pa8t Brus'h* ^''' '^ ^^ whcrevcr cake or lady-fingers join with a very 
little of this hot syrup or with the white of an egg, or a little 
gum arable dissolved in water, putting on so little that none 
adheres to the mold. The whole interior is sometimes brushed 
over with white of egg to make the cake firmer. If any sheet of 
cake is left, put upside down on board and spread over it a wet 
towel and it will keep perfectly. If eggs are used in the 
cream whip them first. If preferred, the charlotte-russe may 
be made into small molds, one for each person. Great care 
must be used in turning out, or the cream ma.y burst the cake. 
Holding the mold in the left hand, place the plate or dish on which 
it is to be served over it with the right hand, ^^^ 

and slowly and gently invert it. If desired, 
a piece of the cake may be shaped for a 
cover to the mold, which when served be- 
comes the foundation. A much simpler 
and very nice way of preparing a case for 
charlotte-russe, is to bake a sponge cake in 
a fancy mold and when cold turn out and 
with a sharp knife carefully cut off the top,' 
laying it to one side for the cover ; replace 
cake in mold and remove the inside 




Charlotte Busse. 



carefully, leaving 



158 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

the cake at least an inch thick and as smooth as possible ; then 
fill with the prepared cream, put on the cover and serve 
inverted, as above on plate; or simply scoop out the inside 
and after filling and turning from the mold turn it on another 
plate, leaving the cake right side up, and heap whipped cream 
upon the open top as illustrated. 

Cream intended for whippmg should first he chilled on ice, and 
may be sweetened or flavored to taste either before or after whip- 
ping. Have a deep tin pan half filled with snow or pounded ice, and 
into this set another pan that will hold two or three times the quan- 
tity of cream before it is whipped ; place the cream in a bowl, set on 
ice, and with a whip churn (or an egg beater if you have not a 
churn) whip to a froth, and when the bowl is full let stand a moment 
until the air bubbles break, then skim the froth into the pan standing 
on the ice, and repeat this until the cream is all froth; then with the 
spoon draw the froth to one side, and it will be found that some of 
the cream has gone back to milk ; turn this into the bowl again and 
whip as before ; or use a sieve as the receptacle for the whipped 
cream, placing it over a bowl to catch the drippings, which are re- 
whipped. The whip churn shown in the cut can be procured of 
almost any dealer or may be ordered from the tinner. It is operated 
by placing the handle inside the tube and inserting 
the perforated end of the tube (slightly tipped) into 
the bowl of cream. By drawing up the handle and 
forcing it down again the cream is forced in and 



Whip Churn. Q■^Jj^ Qf ^Y^Q holes in the tube and soon becomes a 
light froth, which is taken off as directed above. In cold weather it 
is not considered necessary by some to thus skim the froth, simply 
whipping rapidly until the whole stiffens Be careful not to whip 
too long or particles of butter Avill form. When cream is difficult 
to whip, add to and whip with it the white of an egg. After the 
cream is whipped, work the froth with an egg whisk which makes it 
finer grained. If perfectly sweet use double cream for whipping. If 
too thick a little milk may be added. 

Single cream is cream that has stood on the milk twelve hours, 
and is best for tea or coffee ; double cream has stood twenty-four 
hours, and cream for butter often stands forty-eight hours. In put- 
ting together ingredients for custards always rinse out the bowl in 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



159 




which yolks were beaten with a part of the milk used, so that none 
of the yolks will be wasted. When creams or custards through lack 
of proper attention have been cooked too long and become curdled, 
beating thoroughly with an egg beater will remove the unpleasant 
effect. The measurement of cream in the following recipes is given 
before it is whipped. The Bavarian cream recipes will make three 
or four times the quantity of unwhipped cream called for, and are 
therefore comparatively inexpensive for so elegant a dessert. Molds 
should always be wet in cold water for creams, russes, blanc-manges, 
etc., that are placed in them to stand until cold. If they do not turn 

out easily, dip for an 
instant into warm water. 
Before turning into 
molds some prefer to 
strain all blanc-manges, 
cuatard Strainer. and cool slx hours bcfore 

serving, or are even better made the day before wanted. Should 
custards cook up lumpy they should be strained, and many strain 
them before cooking, after putting all ingredients together. 

Gelatine is usually put up in two-ounce packages, so that where 
recipes call for half package, one ounce should be used. In choos- 
ing gelatine or isinglass select that which is whitest, has no un- 
pleasant odor, and which dissolves most readily in water. To test 
its purity drop a few threads of the substance into boiling water, 
some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the first it will 
dissolve, in the second become white and cloudy, and in vinegar it 
will swell and become jelly-like. But if adulterated it will not so 
completely dissolve in hot water, in cold water it will become jelly- 
like, and in vinegar will harden. In preparing 
small fruits with seeds for 
creams, etc., mash through a 
Une woven-wire sieve, called a 
puree sieve — the ordinary flour 
Puree- Sieve. sisvc bclng too coarsc. A very 

useful kitchen utensil is the little steamer de- Teaketuo steamer. 

signed to set over top of teakettle, in which creams and custards 
that need to be cooked over hot water may be very easily prepared, 
saving space of one utensil. 





160 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




Macaroon Basket, 



icaroon Basket. — A pretty and unique way of serving mac* 
aroons with cream is as follows : Dissolve tablespoon gum arable 
in half cup hoillngf water thoroughly; 
then stir in large cup Vv^hite sugar. Boil 
gently until very thick. Set it while us- 
ing in a pan of boiling water to keep hot.' 
Take a round tin pail, butter thickly on 
bottom and sides, dip edges only of each 
macaroon in hot candy and lay them in 
close rows on bottom until it is covered. 
Let them get perfectly dry,and be sure they 
adhere firmly to one another before be- 
ginning the lower row of the sides. Build 
up wall one row at a time, letting each 
harden before adding another. When 
basket is done and firm, lift carefully from mold, make a loop-han- 
dle at each end with four or five macaroons stuck together, set on a 
flat dish and heap with whipped cream, Sprinkle comfits over 
cream or ornament with bits of red jelly. Lady fingers, brushing 
edges with white of egg, may be thus utilized. For an Orange Bas- 
ket, slice oranges nicely, place on skewers, dip then in hot candy 
and line bottom and sides of pail or mold (which must first be but- 
tered) in same way. Leave until hard and cemented together, then 
fill with whipped cream. Or for Ornnr/e Basket f>, remove fruit from 
interior of oranges carefully by making a small incision on one 
side of fruit, then cut skin into shape of a basket, leaving about half 
an inch of stalk ends for handles. Fill baskets with any cream, 
ices, ice cream, whipped cream, jellies, etc., and they make a very 
pretty ornament for table. The juice and pulp removed can be 
made into jelly or custard, or sent to table sweetened with sugar. 

Chocolate Blanc- Mange. — Soak two-thirds box gelatine two 
hours in three pints of milk and then put in custard kettle. Cook 
three tablespoons grated chocolate, pinch of 
pulverized cinnamon, two each of sugar and 
boiling water in frying pan for a minute or 
two ; add to milk with two more tablespoons 
sugar, cook two or three minutes and strain ; 
flavor with vanilla sugar, place in sauce pan 
and put in molds to cool, and eat with cream. puddmg mom. 

To serve very handsomely with cream, 
set to form in a mold with cylinder in 
center (any pudding or cake mold will 
do) one may be improvised by stitching 
together a roll of stiff paper just the height 
of mold, butter it well and hold in center of mold while filling, put- 
ting a light weight on it to keep in place; or, better still, use a bottle 
filled with shot or damp salt. When blanc-mange is turned out slip 





CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 161 

Ocit this cylinder, fill the cavity with whipped cream, raising it to 
pyramidal form, and heap same about the base ; or, form in melon 
mold and serve with whipped cream around it. 

Farina Blanc-Mange. — Set a quart new milk over boiling 
water, reserving a few spoonfuls in which mix three ounces farina ; 
when the milk films add one-third cup sugar, the farina and a quar- 
ter teaspoon salt, and stir until cooked to thick batter ; pour into 
wet mold, let stand three hours, and eat with sugar and cream, or 
any custard or sauce preferred. 

Raspherry Blanc-Mange. — Stew nice fresh raspberries, strain 
off the juice and sweeten to taste ; place over the fire and when it 
boils stir in corn starch wet in cold water, allowing two table- 
spoons corn starch for each pint juice ; continue stirring until 
sufficiently cooked, pour into molds wet in cold water and set 
away to cool ; eat with cream and sugar ; other fruit can be used 
instead of raspberries. 

Rice Blanc-Mange. — Five ounces rice flour and one quart 
milk ; mix flour with a little cold milk and stir till smooth, then add 
and stir in six ounces fine sugar, a teaspoon grated yellow rind of a 
lemon, or two teaspoons pure vanilla extract, or a drop or tioo essence 
of almonds ; then a'dd the rest of the milk, stir all well together, place 
on the fire and .boil and stir constantly until it thickens, then imme- 
diately pour into mold ; let it remain till perfectly stiff and cold j 
eat with sugar and cream or any sauce preferred. 

Sago Blanc-Mange. — Boil a half pint pearl sago in one quart 
milk, or half milk and half water, until perfectly soft ; stir in two 
well-beaten eggs and pour into mold wet with cold water. Serve 
with the sweetened cream, or it may be eaten warm if preferred with 
« Fairy Butter.'* 

Vanilla Blanc-3fange. — One ounce gelatine soaked in one 
quart milk one hour ; set over fire, add yolks of three eggs beaten with 
one cup sugar, beat to boiling, flavor with vanilla and turn into 
mold. Eat Avith sweetened cream. 

Ap'ole Charlotte. — Soak one-third box gelatine an hour in third 
cup cold Avater, pour half cup boiling water over it, stir until thor- 
oughly dissolved and pour upon a scant pint of tart apples steamed 
and rubbed through a puree sieve, add one cup sugar and iuice of 
one large lemon ; place in a basin of pounded ice and beat until it 
begins to thicken add well-frothed whites of three eggs, pour into 
two-quart mold that has been lined Avith sponge cake and set on ice 
to harden ; make a custard of the yolks, one pint milk and three ta- 
blespoons sugar, and Avhen the charlotte is turned out on a dish 
pour this around it. 

U 



162 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

Strawberry Charlotte. — Dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a 
pinu warm water, strain and when nearly set, dip fresh strawberries 
into it and line bottom and sides of a plain round mold packed in 
ice ; fill with cream made after any cream or russe recipe preferred. 
Raspberries, blackberries and cherries may be used for same pur- 
pose. Serve when cold with whipped cream poured around it, dip- 
ping mold in warm water before turning out. A most beautiful and 
delicious dish. For Fruit Charlotte., pare, quarter and core half 
dozen apples, peaches or any fresh fruit and stew in half gill water, 
with pinch of cinnamon till tender ; add gill of sugar, or sweeten 
to taste and let cool. Butter a mold or any baking dish, line with 
fingers of stale bread, quarter of an inch thick and one inch broad, 
first dipped in melted butter. Fill half full with the fruit, cover 
with a layer of candied fruit, preserves or raisins, fill up with rest of 
stewed fruit and cover with a thin piece of bread, cut to fit and 
dipped in melted butter ; bake fifteen or twenty minutes in moder- 
ate oven. Forai\^^i( Charlotte^ cut a round stale sponge cake in 
four or five layers about half an inch thick. Beat whites of four 
eggs to a froth, and into half of them add finely-grated cocoanut (as 
needed) and two tablespoons pulverized sugar; into the rest stir an 
almond paste made of three-quarters of a pint blanched almonds 
and a little rose water or white of an egg, and two tablespoons sugar. 
Spread bottom layer with almond cream, put on next layer and on 
it the cocoanut cream, etc., not putting on the top layer of cake. 
Cut a round piece about five or six inches in diameter in center of 
cake, cutting through ^'w5^ to bottom layer. Make a rich boiled cus- 
tard of the four yolks of eggs, half pint milk and sweeten to taste ; 
soak center piece in that and beat smooth, adding two gills double 
cream, whipped stiff, and tablespoon orange-water or any flavoring 
as wished. Fill hollow of cake with this, put on top layer, ice with 
French icing and put in cool place till ready to serve. 

Buckeye Charlotte Rtisse. — Dissolve scant half box of gela- 
tine (two ounces in a box) in gill hot water. Whip a pint of cream as 
directed and set froth on ice, to cream left if all can not be Tfhipped, 
add one-third pint pulverized sugar and any flavoring wished. Strain 
gelatine into this, and add all to froth Avhich has been on ice; stir 
till it begins to thicken, then fill molds already lined with sponge 
cake. For a New England Charlotte Musse, 
make sponge cake and bake in a sheet, or bet- 
ter, buy a sheet at bakery, Avet bottom of pa- 
per with cold water and take oft' carefully, or 
if cake has accidently been baked too hard, 
,let stand after dampening for fifteen minutes 
^_^^^^^ (before taking off paper. Line an unbuttered 
^^^^^^m::::-;. ^^^^^^ |-^y trimmiug off edges of cake and 

just cutting a piece to fit bottom, then sides, putting light 
colored side of cake next to mold and fill with the following 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. Jgg 

prepared whipped cream : One pint thick sweet cream, four heaping 
tablespoons sugar and teaspoon flavoring, third each of lemon, va- 
nilla and almond, or all of one kind ; place dish in a pan of ice and 
whip with egg beater or whip churn. After filling mold place in 
bed of ice till wanted, turn out on platter and serve. 

Almond Bacarian Cream. — "\Miip one and one-haxf pints cream 
until only a half pint is left un whipped, which put into a double 
boiler with a pint blanched sweet almonds pounded to paste, and add 
three eggs and a small cup sugar, first thoroughly beaten together ; 
cook until it begins to thicken, then stir in one ounce gelatine 
soaked two hours in half cup milk ; remove from fire, strain and add 
one-fourth teaspoon essence of almond ; beat until it thickens and 
stir in the whipped cream, pour into molds, set away until cold, and 
serve with whipped cream. Use one pint pistachio nuts instead of 
almonds, omitting essence of almond, and you have Pistachio 
Bavarian Cream. 

CTiocoIate Ba.varian Cream. — Scrape one ounce Baker's choc- 
olate, add two tablespoons sugar, put over a hot fire with one table- 
spoon hot water and stir until smooth and glossy. Have a half cup 

milk boiling, stir the chocolate into it 

and add one ounce gelatine soaked two 

hours in a half cup milk. Strain into 

tin basin, add two tablespoons sugar, 

place in ice water and stir until it 

begins to thicken ; add a pint cream 

whipped to a stiff froth, mixing well, 

and turn into mold to harden. Serve 

Baraiiam Cream. wlth wMppcd crcam. Thc crowu molds 

are best for Bavarian cream, as the opening in the center may be 

filled with the whipped cream served with it. 

Orange Bavai^an Cream.. — ^TMiip one and one-half pints cream, 
and skim off until less than a half pint remains un whipped : put 
this in a double boiler, add beaten yolks gix eggs, stir until it 
begins to thicken, and add one ounce gelatine that has been soaked 
two hours in a half cup cold water, also grated rind of two oranges. 
"S^Tien gelatine is dissolved take off and set in pan of powdered ice ; 
stir till it begins to cool and add juice five oranges strained over one 
large cup sugar. Beat until it thickens like custard, add whipped 
cream, stiruntil thoroughly mixed, and pour into molds. The oranges 
may be omitted, and flavored with vanilla the above makes a delicious 
Vanilla Cream. Serve when cold heaped around with whipped 
cream. Make Lemon Cream in same manner, using juice four 
lemons, or, leave out the cream, taking instead a scant pint cold 
water mixed with the well-beaten yolks five eggs, stirred in with the 
sugar and juice, adding the whipped whites last instead of the 
.cream, and you will have Orange or Lemon Sponge, as you prefer. 




mam 



164 CEEAMS AND CUSTARDS. 




Pine-apple Bavariati Cream. — Chop one pint canned pine- 
apple, and simmer over fire with small cup sugar twenty minutes and 
add one ounce gelatine previously soaked two hours in half cup 
cold water, strain through a sieve into bright tin 
basin, rubbing through as much of the pine-apple 
as possible. Beat until it begins to thicken, then 
stir in one pint cream, whipped, pour into mold 

and serve cold, with whipped cream around. _ 

Decorate with tuft of pine-apple leaves, or if want- piae-appie cream. 
ed more elaborate use pine-apple decoration described in charlotte- 
russe. Coffee Bavarian Cream is made the same, with one cup 
strong, boiling hot coifee instead of the cooked pine-apple ; or, take 
whites four eggs and a cup cold water, leaving out whipped cream, 
mixing the water with the sugar and fruit before cooking, and add- 
ing the frothed whites of eggs instead of cream, and you will have 
a delicious Pine-apple Sponge. 

Strawberry Bavarian Cream. — Soak one ounce gelatine two 
hours in half cup cold water, mash one quart strawberries 
with large cup sugar and let stand one hour; whip one pint 
cream to froth, strain mashed berries through cloth into bright 
tin basin, pour half cup boiling water over the soaked gelatine, 
and when dissolved strain it into the strawberry juice. Set 
basin in pan of pounded ice and beat the mixture until it 
begins to thicken ; when like soft custard stir in and mix 
thoroughly the whi^^ped cream, turn into a two-quart mold, or 
two or more smaller ones, and set away to cool and harden. Serve 
cold with whipped cream. Raspberry and Blackberry Ba- 
varian Creams are luado in exactly same manner, as are also 
Peachy Apricot^ ;ind Pear Creams^ first putting these fruits 
(which may be ei'.^^er canned, partially cooked, or fresh) through a 
puree sieve, and then oooking gently with the sugar twenty minutes, 
^^rrr^^^^^ Stirring often ; leave out the hot vater and stir the 
'(^.^^^^^^s^-r:^ soaked gelatine into the hot fruit, which must 
cool before beating and adding whipped cream. 

Peach Cream, Picccs of frcsh fruit may be served around it. 

Or, for Sponges with any of the above fruits use a cup water and 
whites of four eggs instead of pint cream, boiling half the sugar and 
water together twenty minutes, then adding the gelatine, then the 
berries or fruit prepared as above, and stirring in the whipped whites 
of eggs when the mixture is partially cold and begins to thicken. 
Mold and serve same as creams. 

Italian Cream. — Soak one-third box gelatine half an hour in 
cold milk, put a quart milk in custard kettle and when boiling stir 
in well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, add one and a half cups sugar 
and the gelatine ; when the custard begins to thicken take it off 
and pour into a deep dish in which the eight whites have been beaten 
to a stiff froth j beat thoroughly together and flavor to taste ; put in 



CREAMS AND CUSTARD«. 165 




molds, and allow four hours to cool. This cream is much more 
easily made in winter than in summer. 

Chocolate Cream. — Scald one quart milk and stir into it half 
package gelatine, previously dissolved in one c";) milk, and add 
cup powdered sugar. Heat up once and when g'.l^tine is quite dis- 
solved strain. Wet four tablespoons chocolate with cold water and 
add to th(5 mixture, which must again be heated 
smoking hot, then add gradually beaten yolks two 
eggs, and boil for five minutes, not longer, as the 

eggs may curdle. Turn into a large shallow dish 

or pan to cool, and when it begins to coagulate chocolate cream, 
whip in gradually and thoroughly beaten whites two eggs. Lastly 
add pint cream, whipped, pour into wet mold, let stand until per- 
fectly cold and serve with sweetened cream. By taking half the 
chocolate and coloring only half the cream, using a buttered paste- 
board to separate the two in the mold, the effect is quite pleasing. 

Raspberry Cream. — One quart good cream, one pint fresh 
raspberries ; mash and rub fruit through a fine sieve or strainer to 
extract the seeds, bring the cream to a boil (having resej'ved one 
pint for froth), and add it to the berries while it remains hot, 
sweeten with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. Now 
raise cream, which has been reserved, to a froth with a bjater, take 
oflf the froth and lay it on a sieve to drain ; fill dish, or glasses as in 
almond custard, with the cream and place froth on top. Very nice. 
Any kind of berries, jam or jelly is good, and can be used without 
straining. 

Rock Cream. — Boil one cup rice in a custard-kettle in sweet 
milk until soft, add two tablespoons loaf sugar, a salt-spoon salt ; 
pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly ; beat whites of five 
eggs and three tablespoons pulverized sugar to stiff froth, flavor to 
taste, add one tablespoon rich cream, and drop the mixture on the 
rice, giving it the form of a rough snovv^y rojk ; or, flavor the rice 
with essence almonds, or any other preferred, put into cups and 
let stand till cold ; then turn out in a deep glass dish and pour 
round them a soft custard made after any good r:cipc, placing on 
top of each ball a bit of bright colored jolly. Flavoring must be 
same in rice and custard. 

Ruby Cream. — Soak half pint tapioca over night in half pint 
water ; simmer over slow fire in a pint cold water until clear, the 
soaked tapioca and a lemon rind cut in pieces ; skim out lemon 
paring and stir in four ounces sugar, half pint currant jelly, juice 
one lemon, two teaspoons scokeberry syrup ; let simmer a few min- 
utes and pour into one large or two small glass dishes, and when 
perfectly cold (just before serving) cover it with either of these 
snows : Whipped whites four eggs witn xnree ounces powdered 



166 CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

sugar added gradually, flavored with a little lemon, or one pint 
cream whipped with two and one-half ounces sugar. Very ornamen- 
tal, and called also " Ruhy under the snow." 

Tapioca Cream. — Soak over night two tr.blcspoons tapioca in 
one-half cup milk (or enough to cover); b:'rig ono quart milk to 
boiling point ; beat well together yolks of three eg^ ', iialf cup sugar 
and one teaspoon lemon or vanilla for flavoring ; ^.dd the tapioca, 
and stir the whole into the boiling milk, let boil once, turn into the 
dish, and immediately spread on the whites, ficrvo when cold. 

Tea Cream. — Dissolve one-half package gelatine in one cup 
milk, add one cup white sugar, and pour over it one large cup strong 
tea, boiling hot, strain through fine muslin and let cool; whip pint 
of rich cream and also two eggs ; when the gelatine is perfectly 
cold beat in the whites until it is a firm froth, then whip in the cream ; 
set away in a wet mold for eight or ten hours, and serve cold with 
sweetened cream. Coifee Cream is made in same manner, substi- 
tuting cup strong black coflee for the tea. Both made at a time, 
molded in cups or individual molds, and turned out in alternate 
rows upon a plate, they make a handsome dish, and give guests a 
choice. The stronger and blacker the coffee the greater the contrast. 

Turret Cream. — One pint sweet, rich cream, one quart milk, 
one package Cox's gelatine, one heaping cup white sugar, three eggs 
beaten light, whites and yolks separately, one-half pound crystal- 
lized fruit-^cherries and peaches, or apricots — vanilla flavoring, juice 
one lemon. Soak gelatine four hours in one cup milk, scald re- 
mainder of milk and add the sugar, and when this is dissolved the 
soaked gelatine ; stir over the fire until almost boiling, and divide 
into two parts ; return one part to the fire, and when near boiling 
stir in the beaten yolks, cook two minutes, and turn into a bowl to 
cool. When it cools whip the cream very stiff" and beat whites of 
eggs until they stand alone ; divide the latter into two heaps. As 
the yellow gelatine begins to " form " whip one-half the whites into 
it, a little at a time ; to the white gelatine add rest of whites in same 
manner alternately with whipped cream ; season yellow with vanilla 
and white with lemon juice beaten in last. Wet a tall fluted mold 
with water and place around bottom on inside a row crystalized 
cherries, then a layer white mixture, then a layer apricots or peach- 
es, sliced, layer yellow mixture, another border of cherries, and so 
on until all materials are used. When firm, which will be in a few 
hours (in summer set on ice), wrap a cloth wrung out of hot water 
on the mold, and invert upon a flat dish ; serve with sweet cream. 
A very beautiful, ornamental and delicious dessert, and sure to be a 
success if above directions are followed. Bitter almond may be 
used instead of lemon if preferred. Made in the fluted mold with 
stem, filling in whipped cream in center, makes a still more elabo- 
rate dish. 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 167 




Ahnond Custard. — Cook in custard kettle quart milk (half 
cream is better), beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of four, and a half 
pound almonds blanched and pounded to 
paste with four tablespoons rose water till 
thick. Remove from fire and when nearly 
cold stir up thoroughly and pour into cups 
or glasses; make a meringue and heap on custard m Glasses. 

each cup. 

Boiled Custard. — Quart milk, two tablespoons corn-starch, 
two eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, butter size of hickory-nut ; wet 
starch in a little milk, heat remainder to near boiling in a custard 
kettle. The proper heat will be indicated by a froth or film rising 
to top ; add starch till it thickens, stirring constantly, then add eggs 
well-beaten with four tablespoons sugar, let cook, stirring briskly, 
take off and beat well. Flavor to taste, and served with grated 
cocoanut it is elegant. 

Boiled Caramel Custard. — Quart milk, half cup sugar, six 
eggs, half teaspoon salt. Put milk on to boil, reserving a cupfull, 
beat eggs and add cold milk to them. Stir sugar in a small frying- 
pan until it becomes liquid and just begins to smoke. Stir it into 
boiling milk, then add the beaten eggs and cold milk, and stir con- 
stantly until mixture begins to thicken. Set away to cool. 

Coifee Custard. — Boil together a pint each fresh strong coffee 
and cream and turn the mixture over eight eggs beaten up with one 
and one-half cups sugar, stirring rapidly, then set into boiling hot 
water and cook, stirring constantly until it thickens ; pour into 
custard cups and serve cold with whipped cream or frothed whites 
of eggs on top. 

Corn Meal Custard. — To well-beaten yolks of three eggs add 
quart milk and tablespoon each butter and sugar ; then add grad- 
ually scant three-quarters cup fine corn meal, well-whipped whites 
and flavor with nutmeg ; pour in cups, boil or steam fifteen minutes 
and brown delicately in oven ; or reserve whites of two eggs and 
cover with meringue. Serve hot or cold. 

Cup C\(,stards. — One scant quart milk, four well-beaten eggs, 
one cup sugar, flavor to taste ; stir 
thoroughly together until sugar is ,^^^ft 
dissolved ; pour into cups and set in ""__ 

pan boiling hot Avater in oven to custard in oups. 

bake. They will be done in about thirty minutes. Serve cold in cups. 

Fruit Custards. — Stew any kind of fruit almost to a jelly, 
strain oflFjuice, cool, and sweeten to taste. To one quart sweetened 
juice add eight well-beaten eggs stirred into three pints new milk. 
Boil in custard kettle, or bake thirty minutes. Serve in cups or a 
deep dish as preferred either hot or cold. Whipped whites of eggs 
over the top improves its appearance. 




168 



CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 



Cocoa-nut Island. — Line with cake bottom and sides of dish in 
which dessert is to be served ; dissolve in custard kettle one pint 
sugar in half pint water, add one tablespoon corn-starch previously 
mixed smooth with a little Avater and well-beaten yolks of four eggs ; 
cook till it +hickens, add juice of two lemons, heaping tablespoon 
butter and cook a few minutes then pour into dish ; grate one cocoa- 
nut, sweeten a little and put over the custard ; place a meringue of 
the well-beaten whites, half cup sugar and a few drops lemon juice 
in flakes over the top, brown delicately in oven and serve either hot 
or cold. A nice way is to make in souffle dish, or baking dish that 
will fit and serve in silver receptacle, or use a fancy dish and bi:own 
top with salamander iron as directed in souffles. 

Floating Isla7id.—'Make custard of yolks of six eggs, one quart 
milk, small pinch salt, sugar to taste ; beat and strain yolks before 
adding to milk ; place custard in a large tin pan and set in stove, 
stirring constanthj until it boils, then remove, flavor with lemon or 
tose, and pour into a dish (a shallow, wide one is best), spread 
^^ smoothly over the boiling hot 

M;v;';;|,*v custard the well-beaten whites, 

?ilivt;lW^ grating some loaf sugar (some add 

^p-#%|;|l:j\ grated cocoa-nut) on top ; set the 

' ' ^^v^-l^^^^a^ S^sh in a pari of ice-water and 
^ii'.^ss^^^^^fes. serve cold; or turn into glasses 
g^^^^^^-:rn:^^>:r-7^_^,|^^^_ and scrvc with whipped cream or 
^^^^^*a««iL«.i«,^i^fe^S^^gin-- frothed whites of egg on top, 

finishing with lump of jelly in 
Jam Floating i3ianir centcr. Somo prcparc tho wliitea 

by placing a tablespoon at a time on boiling water or milk, lifting 
them out carefully, when cooked, with a skimmer and layirig them 
gently on the float. Do not crowd them while cooking. This is the 
"old reliable recipe." Another way of serving is to pour the above cus- 
tard over slices of small round sponge cakes, spread with fruit jelly 
and placed in ice cream saucers, piling a spoonful whipped cream 
on top of each ; or cut sponge cake in slices and lay them on a round 
dish on ih-Q top of the custard. On this put a layer of apri- 
cots or currant jam, and some more slices of cake. Pile upon this 
very high a whip made of damson or other jam and the whites of 
four eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish wiih fruit ^, 
or sweetmeats. Still another beautiful and delicious island is mad^ 
by whipping whites four eggs very stiff and beating with one tumbler 
jelly, adding one pint powdered sugar gradually, then beating the 
whole until perfectly stiff. Chill on ice and serve by half filling a 
glass dish with milk and cover it with the island in spoonfuls stand- 
ing in peaks. To be eaten with sweetened cream. 

Moonshine. — This dessert combines a pretty appearance with 
palatable flavor, and is a convenient substitute for ice cream. Beat 




CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 169 

whites of six eggs to very stiff froth, add gradually six tablespoons 
powdered sugar (to make it thicker use more sugar up to a pint), 
beating not less than thirty minutes, then beat in about one heaping 
tablespoon preserved peaches cut in tiny bits (or some use one cup 
jelly), and set on ice until thoroughly chilled. In serving, pour in 
each saucer some rich cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
and on the cream place a hberal portion of the moonshine. This 
quantity is enough for seven or eight persons. 

Hidden Mountain. — Six eggs, a few slices citron, sugar to taste, 
three-quarters pint cream, a layer of any kind of jam; beat whites 
and yolks of eggs separately, then mix and beat again, adding citron, 
cream and sugar ; when well-beaten put in a buttered pan and fry ; 
cover with the jam and garnish ^vith slices of citron; to be eaten 
cold. 

Orange Float. — One quart water, the juice and pulp two lemons, 
one coffee-cup sugar; when boiling add four tablespoons corn-starch, 
let boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time ; when cold pour it over 
four or five peeled and sliced oranges, and over the top spread the 
beaten white of three eggs ; sweeten and add a few dropjs vanilla. 

TriiJe. — In the bottom of a deep glass bowl place 
bits of sponge cake, it matters not how stale, cut into ^^J^- 
squares or strips; a small piece of preserved citron'"'" " 
cut into slices ; soak these in cream nicely flavored, 
then fill the bowl to within half an inch of the top 
with boiled custard, rich and cold ; lastly, heap the 
bowl up high with whipped cream or whites of eggs, ^^ 
and place on it nuts, fruits or jelly, cut in thin slices, ^^ 
so that they will not sink into the cream. ~ 

TriSe. 

Ambushed TriHe. — Take a round stale sponge cake, cut the top 
from it in one piece and lay it aside. With sharp knife carefully 
remove inside of cake lea\'ing sides and bottom about an inch thick 
and coat well with sweet jelly or jam; crab-apple jelly is very nice. 
Scald a pint milk, beat three eggs with two tablespoons powdered 
sugar, and stir into milk when almost boiling ; crumb the cake taken 
out and beat into the hot custard ; return to the hot fire and cook, 
stirring constantly, until thick and smooth, then add one teaspoon 
corn-starch wet with a little milk, cook a minute longer and take 
from fire ; when nearly cold flavor ■u'ith vanilla, lemon, or bitter 
almond, and fill the cake with it. Cover inside of the lid of cake 
laid aside with jelly, and fit neatly into its place. Brush the whole 
cake with white of an ^^%., sift powdered sugar thickly over it, or 
frost with plain or boiled frosting, and set in a cool, dry place until 
tvanted. A simple, delightful dessert. 

Lemon Tri/fe.-r- Strain juice two lemons over one large cup 
sugar and grated rind of one lemon and let stand two hours ; then 




170 SOUFFLES. 



add one cup juice of any fruit preferred, and a little nutmeg. Strain 
and whip into it gradually a pint sweet cream that has been whipped 
stiff. Serve in jelly glasses and send around with cake. Should 
be eaten soon after it is made. 



Souffles. 



The extreme lightness and delicacy of a well-made souffle ren- 
der it a general favorite. It may be varied greatly in its composition 
and is commonly served under the name of the flavoring used. 
Vanilla is one of the most delicate flavorings for this elegant dish. 
The secret of making a souffle Avell is to have the eggs well whipped, 
particularly the whites, using for them a perfectly dry dish and 
beater as the slightest moisture will prevent their coming to a froth, 
and unless tJie froth of egg be very stiff the omelette souffle will be 
made heavy by it and so spoiled. Put all ingredients togethet 
quickly but gently, stirring, not beating, and if to be baked place in 
oven as soon as lohites are added in a buttered souffle dish or pan. 
filling only half full, as it will rise very light. Do not have the oven 
too hot nor open oven door for the first quarter of an hour, 
at least. When the souffle has risen very high, is of a 
fine yellow color, and quite done in the center, as it will 
be in from a half to three-quarters of an hour, send immedi- 
ately to table, for if alloAved to stand it Avill sink in the center 
and its appearance and goodness be entirely spoiled. To keep hot, 
and so preserve its lightness, the souffle is often carried to table on a 
hot shovel, or with a hot salamander 
iron held over it, and placed in the 
ornamental dish already on the table, 
and served in a dinner of ceremony as saianM»i«r. 

an entremert, a remove of the second course roast, or for luncheon ; 
quickly hand it round instead of placing on the table. The sala- 
mander, or braising iron, is a very convenient utensil for browning 
the tops of boiled souffles, puddings and the meringues spread over 
creams, blanc-manges, or puddings tu be served cold, or in glass 




SOUFFLES. 171 




dishes, doing away with the necessity of placing them in the oven. 
The souffle pan maybe of either earthen ware 
or tin, and should be about three inches deep, 
fitting into an ornamental dish for serving, 
which is usually of silver. This article will 
, be found very convenient, as it may be used 
for custards, puddings, scalloped oysters, 
oraameutai souce Dish. potato crcam, or any dish served in the pan 

in which it is baked. Souffles may, however, be baked in any deep 

tin or earthen baking pan, which may be sent to table on a plate or 

platter, surrounded by a neatly folded napkin. 

Apple SouMe. — One pint steamed apples, pulped ; one tablespoon 
melted butter, half cup sugar, whites of six eggs and yolks of three, 
a slight grating of nutmeg, and a little lemon peel. Stir into the 
hot apple the butter, sugar and nutmeg, and the yolks of the eggs, 
well-beaten. When this is cold, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff 
froth, and stir into the mixture. Butter a three-pint dish, and turn 
the souffle into it. Bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve 
immediately with any kind of sauce. 

Cheese SouMe. — Melt a tablespoon butter, stir into it two table- 
spoons flour, add one gill milk and stir until boiling ; throw in one- 
half teaspoon each salt and white pepper and a grain Caj-enne ; take 
from fire t\nd stir in one by one yolks of three eggs and three ounces 
grated cheese, beating the whole thoroughly, then add well-frothed 
whites four eggs, stirring so carefully as not to beat down the froth ; 
bake in cups in quick oven ten minutes. Serve in the cups on hot 
plate the moment the souffle is done, placing them in a napkin 
folded in basket shape upon the table. 

Chestnut SouMe. — Throw one pint fresh chestnuts into boiling 
water and boil until shells begin to crack open. Take from the 
water, remove shells and inner skins, pound in a mortar and make 
perfectly smooth by passing them through a sieve. Pour one pint rnilk 
over the chestnut-flour and stirring these together put the mixture into 
a small saucepan and let it cook over a slow fire ten minutes, melt 
a tablespoon butter and stir into it two tablespoons flour; turn this 
into the milk and chestnuts, and the instant the mixture boils take 
from fire and add two tablespoons powdered sugar, yolks three eggs, 
and beat all well together ; stir in Hghtly the stiffly frothed whites of 
four eggs, pour into well-greased souffle pan and bake in moderate 
oven twenty minutes. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. 

Chicken SouMe. — Take the breast of one raw chicken, choj) fine, 
and pound in a mortar, melt a half tablespoon butter and stir into it one 
tablespoon e«ch flour and sweet cream j when boiling take from fire 



172 SOUFFLES. 



and pour over the mixUire in the mortar adding one egg ; pound 
well together, season with pepper and salt and pass through a sieve ; 
whip a gill of cream (less the tablespoon used) to a froth and add to 
the mixture ; have ready two truffles, cut into stars, and place one 
star in the bottom of each buttered cup-tin, fill half full of the souffle 
mixture, cover with greased paper, put into a pan boiling water and 
let them simmer slowly fifteen minutes ; when done turn out on hot 
platter, leaving truffles uppermost, and serve at once. 

Chocolate SouM€.—^ve2ik four eggs, whites and yolks sepa- 
rately ; add to the yolks three teaspoons sugar, one teaspoon flour ; 
three ounces chocolate, grated, and stir rapidly five minutes ; whip 
whites of eggs till firm and add them to the other ingredients. But- 
ter the souffle pan, put in the mixture and bake in moderate oven 
fifteen or twenty minutes ; strew sugar over and serve immediately, 
carrying to table with hot salamander over the top. Another excel- 
lent chocolate souffle is made by melting one large tablespoon butter, 
stirring into it over the fire two tablespoons flour, adding a gill of 
milk, and when boiling remove from the stove, add nine tablespoons 
grated chocolate and a heaping tablespoon sugar, and drop in one by 
one the yolks of four eggs, stirring briskly all the time ; whip whites 
of four eggs and stir in last very lightly ; pour the mixture into the 
souffle pan, set in a pan of hot water reaching halfway up its sides, 
cover and simmer on back of range thirty minutes without uncover- 
ing ; when done, brown with salamander, set pan into souffle dish or 
envelop in a napkin ; serve at once. Or to the well-beaten yolks of six 
eggs add half pint butter, cup flour, pint milk and half cup grated 
chocolate ; bake in souffle dish in hot oven ; serve at onee. 

Chocolate SouMe. (Cold). — Two cups milk, one and a half 
squares Baker's chocolate, three-fourths cup powdered sugar, two 
tablespoons corn-starch, three eggs, one-fourth teaspoon salt, half 
teaspoon vanilla extract. Boil the milk in double boiler, leaving out 
third of a cup to mix with the corn starch. After mixing, stir into 
the boiling milk and cook eight minutes. Dissolve the chocolate 
with half a cup of the sugar and two tablespoons boiling water ; add 
to the other mixture ; beat the yolks and add them and the salt. 
Cook two minutes. Set in cold water and beat until cool, then add 
flavor and pour into a dish ; beat whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, 
add the remaining sugar and heap on the custard. Dredge with 
sugar and brown with a salamander or hot shovel. 

Cream SouMe. — Four eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of 
salt, half teaspoon vanilla extract, one cup cream, whipped. Beat 
whites of eggs to stiff froth, and gradually add sugar and flavoring 
to them. When well-beaten add yolks, and lastly the whipped 
cream. Have a dish holding about one quart slightly buttered. Pour 
the mixture into this and hake just twelve niinutes. Serve the mo- 
ment it is taken from the oven. 



SOUFFLES. 173 



Jelly SouMe. — Boil one quart milk and add three tablespoons 
corn-starch wet with a little cold milk ; stir one minute and pour 
into a bowl over beaten yolks of six eggs, whites of two, and one- 
half cup powdered sugar ; whip two or three minutes, put into but- 
tered dish, set in pan of boiling water in oven and bake half an hour, 
or until firm. Just before taking out cover quickly with jelly or jam 
and over this put a meringue of the four whites of eggs and a half 
cup powdered sugar. Close oven doors for a moment till meringue 
is slightly colored. When cold serve with cream. 

Lemon SouMe. — Melt two tablespoons butter and stir into it 
four tablespoons flour ; add one ounce arrowroot, four tablespoons 
sugar and one pint milk (having previously taken one gill of the 
milk in which to steep the thin yellow rind of a lemon for flavoring), 
stir until it boils and when boiling strain into it the milk from the 
lemon rinds. Set aside and when slightly cool drop in one by one 
the yolks of four eggs, stir well together and add the frothed whites 
of five eggs, stirring them in very lightly. Turn quickly into souflfle 
pan, cover and set in boiling water ; draw to back of range and let 
simmer three-quarters of an hour, keeping closely covered. Serve 
when done as quickly as possible. 

Macaroon SouMe. — Soak one-third box gelatine in half cup 
water two hours, then set over hot water and stir until dissolved, 
strain and stir it into one pint juice of any kind of fruit preferred. 
Add a half cup sugar, or sweeten to taste, place the pan on ice and 
as soon as the mixture begins to thicken whip until it hardens like 
jelly ; set away on ice. Brown ten macaroons in oven, cool them 
and. roll fine. Just before ready to serve make any soft custard 
liked, omitting the flavoring, turn it into a scuffle dish, heap the 
fruit jelly on this and cover with the macaroon crumbs. 

Omelette SouMe. — Cream yolks of three eggs and three table- 
spoons sugar in a deep bowl and flavor as wished ; add well-frothed 
whites of six eggs, ana with a spoon, giving it a rotary motion, cut 
the two, mixing carefully together; turn on the soufile dish (or any 
baking dish) slightly buttered, smooth, sprinkle with sugar and bake 
in moderate oven ; when risen well and of fine yellow color, serve ; 
or, for Fruit Omelette SouMe add to the well frothed whites of three 
eggs a tablespoon marmalade or fresh peaches cut in fine pieces, mix 
with powdered sugar and bake in a rather quick oven ; or place a 
layer of marmalade on bottom of dish and pour the omelette souffle 
over and bake. 

Omelette SouMe — Put one pint milk over the fire, reserving suffi- 
cient to wet up three heaping tablespoons potato flour, rice flour, 
arrowroot, or tapioca, as preferred, stir this into the milk, add piece 
of butter size of walnut, and sweeten to taste. Stir over the fire un- 
til it thdokenS) then take off and cool a little. Separate the whites 



174 SOUFFLES. 




from the yolks of four eggs, beat the yolks, and stir them into the 
souffle batter. Whisk the whites of eggs to the firmest possible 
froth, for on this depends the excellence of the dish ; stir them to 
the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence of any flavor- 
ing preferred ; pour the batter into a souffle dish, put it immediately 
into the oven, and bake about half an hour ; then take out and put the 
dish into the more ornamental one, hold a salamander or hot shovel 
over the souffle, strew it with sifted sugar, and send it instantly to 
table. Another delicious souffle is made by beating yolks of four 
eggs, two tablespoons sugar, a speck of salt and tablespoon flavor- 
ing together, and adding quickly the well- 
frothed whites. Have a large omelette pan 
very hot. Put in one tablespoon butter and 
pour in half the mixture. Shake rapidly for 
a minute ; then fold and turn on a hot dish. 
Omelette Pan. Put tho remainder of the butter and mixture 

in the pan and proceed as before. Turn this omelette on the dish 
by the side of the other. Dredge lightly with sugar, and place in 
oven for eight minutes. Serve the moment it comes from oven. 

Orange SouMe. — Peel and slice six oranges, put in a glass dish 
a layer of oranges ; then one of sugar, and so on until all the orange 
is used, and let stand two hours ; make a soft boiled custard of yolks 
of three eggs, pint milk, sugar to taste, with grating of orange peel 
for flavor, and pour over the oranges when cool enough not to break 
dish ; beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, stir in sugar and put over the 
top ; may be browned with salamander iron or hot shovel. Praised 
by all. 

Potato SouMe. — Clean well with a brush and bake four large 
potatoes, cut oif the tops, scoop out the inside, taking care not to 
break the skins ; rub the potato through a sieve and add to it a half 
gill of boiling milk into which a tablespoon of 
butter and half teaspoon each salt and white 

pepper have been stirred ; continue stirring until 

potato becomes hot, take from the fire and drop in potato sourae. 

the yolks of three eggs, stirring each one thoroughly with the potato 
mixture before dropping in another ; lastly, stir in lightly the frothed 
whites of five eggs, being careful not to break the froth ; fill the 
potato skins two-thirds full of this mixture, stand upright in a pan, 
and bake in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The souffle 
will be done when the finger can be pressed upon it and withdrawn 
without any adhering. Serve on hot platter. 




DRINKS. 175 



DRINKS. 



Beside the wines and liquors still served at so many tables, 
though rigorously and wisely excluded from many others, and the 
universal and well-nigh indispensable coffee and tea, there are in- 
numerable pleasant, refreshing drinks that are easily concocted and 
within the reach of all. The basis of most of these is the juice of 
fruits, which, combined with sugar and flavoring in liked propor- 
tions, forms an infinite variety of healthful as well as pleasing bev- 
erages. 

A knowledge of the proper preparation of the two every-day 
beverages, coffee and tea, should be among the acquirements of every 
housekeeper. To avoid adulteration, buy coffee in the grain, either 
raw or in small quantities freshly roasted. In selecting raw coffee 
choose that which is dry and light ; if it feels dense and heavy it is 
green ; buy that at least eight or ten months old, and the claim is 
made that the longer the raw berry is kept the riper and better 
flavored it becomes. The best kinds are the Mocha and Java, and 
some prefer to mix the two, having roasted them separately in the 
proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. 
Mocha alone is too rough and acrid, but thus blended it is delicious. 
Pure Java, if of a high order, does not need other brands of coffee 
to make it palatable ; but, as a rule, above mixing, or one-third each 
of pure Mocha, Java, and Maracaibo, makes a rich cup of coffee, 
while a mixture of two-thirds Mandehling Java and one-third "male 
berry" (so called) Java produces excellent results; or one pound 
Java to about four ounces Mocha and four ounces- of one or two 



176 DEINKS. 

other kinds ; and it is said that from three parts Rio, with two parts 
Old Government Java, a coffee can be made quite as good, if not 
superior, to that made of Java alone. West India coffee, though of 
a different flavor, is often very good. Mexico coffee is quite accept- 
able, but the producers must clean it properly if they expect to 
receive patronage. Java, or East India coffee, may be known by 
its large yellow beans ; Mocha comes from Arabia and has small gray 
beans inclining to greenish. The Rio berries are of the same color 
with the greenish tinge, but are of larger size, midway between Mo- 
cha and Java. In buying roasted coffee ascertain that it has been kept 
in closely covered air-tight tin box, as if in pine it will be flavored with 
pine, and purchase of a dealer who roasts frequently, or buys roasted 
cofiee in small lots. Coffee roasted by machinery is of course more 
evenly browned, but by roasting it at home one is sure of having it 
perfectly fresh and pure. When buying roasted coffee compare it 
with the raw beans of the kind desired. If pure and properly 
roasted the coffee Avill be of a rich brown color and have increased 
fifty per cent in bulk, or each bean will be a half size larger than 
when raw. Coffee loses twenty-five per cent its weight in roasting 
a pound of raw coffee making only three-quarters of a pound 
roasted. 

Roast coffee with the greatest care — for here lies the secret of 
success in coffee-making — and in small quantities, for there is a 
peculiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. To make the most 
perfect and delicious coffee, the desired quantity should be roasted 
just before it is made. But this involves more time and trouble 
than can be given by most housewives for every-day use. Pick over 
carefully, wash if berries are not clean, and weigh (the best will not 
iieed washing), and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and 
roast quickly, either in the oven or on top of the stove or range ; in 
the latter case stir constantly and in the oven stir often with a 
wooden spoon or ladle kept for this purpose. The coffee must be 
thoroughly and evenly roasted to a dark rich brown (not black) 
throughout, and must be free from any burnt grains, a few of which 
will ruin the flavor of a large quantity. It must be tender and brit- 
tle, to test which take a grain, place it on the table, press with the 
thumb and if it can be crushed, it is done. Blow off any loose par- 
ticles separated by the heat and stir in a lump of butter while the 
coffee is hot, or wait until about half cold and then stir in a well- 



DRINKS. 177 

beaten egg. The latter plan is very economical, as coffee so pre- 
pared needs no further clarifying. A French method of roasting 
cofTee is to add to every three pounds coffee apiece of butter the size 
of a nut and a dessert-spoonful powdered sugar, and then roast in 
the usual manner. The addition of the butter and sugar develops 
the flavor and aroma of the berry, but the butter must be of the very 
best. Another French method is to roast, grind to a flour, moisten 
slightly, mix it with twice its weight in sugar and then press into 
tablets, using a tablet when needed. Keep coffee in a closely cov- 
ered tin or earthen vessel. Never attempt other work while roasting 
coffee but give it the entire attention. Grind quantities as needed, 
for the flavor is dissipated if it is long unused after grinding, even 
when under cover. The grinding is a very important part of the 
preparation of coffee, and the old method, still very generally prac- 
ticed, was to grind into coarse particles, but it is now claimed that 
if ground too coarse much of the strength and aroma of the coffee is 
lost ; by grinding as fine as possible these qualities are much more 
perfectly preserved, and the only objection urged is that it is dif- 
ficult to make the beverage clear. This may be obviated by filtering, 
or using the sack described in Filtered Coffee, as the little wire cups 
opening in center for holding coffee are not fine enough, though 
some inventive genius will doubtless soon bring forward a strainer 
of the requisite fineness for this purpose. Many grind coffee mod- 
erately fine or to particles the size of pin heads, obtaining there- 
from a satisfactory beverage, and claim that this grinding frees the 
oil, as it should be, and any finer develops properties very injurious. 
A step further is to reduce the coffee to a fine powder — as fine as flour. 
If appliances for doing this are not at hand then the dealer must be 
depended upon, but prepare at home if possible, and thus secure 
perfectly fresh and unadulterated coffee. When necessary to pur- 
chase of a dealer be sure that the coffee is roasted and ground fre- 
quently, if not daily, and buy only in small quantities sufficient for 
a week's consumption is a good rule, though for large families it has 
been bought in five-pound cans, and by keeping closely covered was 
thought to have lost but little of its strength and flavor. In any 
case, keep in air-tight can. 

MAKING COFFEE. 

To make coffee from the powder it will be necessary to use a 
patent pot or put the powder in the sack described below. The pow- 
12 



i78 DRINKS. 

der is claimed to be much more economical than the ordinary ground 
coffee, requiring only about one-third as much, or one teaspoon to 
each person (with half pint water), and is also much more quickly 
made, the boiling water filtering through and the coffee being ready 
to serve within a minute or two after it is put in the sack. The old- 
fashioned Avay of making coffee by boiling is still practiced by prob- 
ably a majority of housekeepers. "One for the pot" and a heaping 
tablespoon ordinary ground coffee for each person, is the usual al- 
lowance. Mix well, either with a part or the whole of an egg when 
only a part is used putting in the shell also, and when eggs are 
scarce some are careful to wash shells before breaking, and keep for 
this purpose, crushing three or four into the pot instead of the egg ; 
or codfish skin washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, may be used 
and enough cold water to thoroughly moisten it, place in a heated, 
well-scalded coffee-boiler, pour in half the quantity of boiling water 
needed, allowing one pint less of water than there are tablespoons of 
coffee. Roll a canton flannel cloth tightly — one must be kept for 
this purpose and washed and dried after using — and stop up the 
nose or spout, thus keeping in all the coffee flavor. Boil rather fast 
five minutes, stirring down from the top and sides as it boils up, 
and place on back part of stove or range where it will only simmer 
for ten or fifteen minutes longer. When ready to serve add the re- 
mainder of the boiling water Some think the flavor is better pre- 
served to put a small quantity of cold water Avith the coffee, bring it 
to boiling point and add sufficient boiling water. Or, another method 
of making coffee without clearing is to stir the coffee directly into 
the boiling water, boil and simmer as above, then pour out a large 
cupful, and, holding it high over the pot, pour it in again ; repeat 
this, and set it on stove where it will keep hot, without simmering. 
The coffee will be clear if instructions are carefully followed. 
Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover close- 
ly, boil one minute, remove to the side of the stove a few minutes to 
settle, and serve. Allow two heaping tablespoons coffee to a pint 
water* The less time the coffee is cooked the more coffee of ordi- 
nary grinding is required, but the finer the flavor. The late Profes- 
sor Blot protested against boiling the coffee at all, as in his opinion 
the aroma was evaporated, and only the bitter flavor left. The ad- 
vantages of boiled coffee are that when the egg is used the yolk 
gives a very rich flavor, and when the milk or cream is added the 



DRINKS. 179 

coffee has a rich, yellow look, which is pleasing. It has also a pe- 
culiar flavor, which many people prefer to the flavor gained by any 
other process. The disadvantages are that the egg coats the dry 
coffee, and when the hot water is added the coating becomes hard, 
and a great deal of the best of the coffee remains in the grounds 
after boiling, compelling one to use nearly double the amount of 
coffee. Also, in boiling, much of the fine flavor is lost in the steam 
that escapes from the pot, and the tannic acid of the coffee is ex- 
tracted, which in combination with the milk or cream taken with it 
hardens the albumen they contain into an indigestible compound 
that is excessively irritating to the delicate internal membranes. 

For these reasons the practice of making coffee without boiling 
is gradually becoming more general. And for this a fair proportion 
for good coffee is three tablespoons of the pure ground berry to each 
quart water, which makes sufiicient for three persons. The water 
must be boiling when poured on the coffee but must not boil after- 
ward. The vessel in which it is made must stand near enough the 
fire to be kept as hot as possible without boiling for five or ten min- 
utes before using. If made in a pot containing a strainer the coffee 
will be clear, and if made in an ordinary pot or pitcher it should be 
stirred for three minutes after pouring boiling water over it, to thor- 
oughly saturate the grounds and so cause them to sink to the bottom 
of the pot. If coffee is allowed to stand for about ten minutes to 
settle, and is poured off carefully, it will be perfectly clear. The 
water used in making coffee should be fresh and have boiled two or 
three minutes before pouring over the coffee ; never take that which 
has stood long in the tea-kettle. Always have the coffee-pot hot 
before putting in the coffee. Many think that heating the dry coffee 
just before making improves its flavor. When serving coffee have 
the cups hot. They are very easily heated when coffee is poured at 
table by filling first with hot water from the water-pot, that should 
always be pro^'ided, and turning it into the slop-bowl. If served from 
butler's pantry, set cups over the heater, or fill first with hot water, 
as at table. Serve both coffee and tea with the richest cream, but 
where this cannot be had, a substitute is prepared as follows : Take 
fresh, new milk, set in a pan or pail in boiling water where it will 
slowly simmer, but not boil or reach the boiling point, stir frequently 
to keep the cream from separating and rising to the top, and allow 
to simmer until it is rich, thick and creamy. In absence of both 



180 DRINKS. 

cream and milk the whites of fresh eggs beaten to a froth, with a 
small bit of butter well mixed in, may be used, taking one egg for 
every two cups, and placing the froth in the cup first ; in pouring 
the coffee or tea it must be turned on gradually and constantly stirred 
so as not to curdle the egg ; or omit the butter and use the whole egg ; 
or for a richer dressing with cream, beat the white of an egg to a 
stiff froth, mix with an equal quantity of whipped cream, put in 
plain cream first, then coffee and lastly this mixture. Physicians 
say that coffee without cream is more Avholesome, particularly for 
persons of weak digestion. There seems to be some element in the 
coffee which, combining with the milk, forms a leathery coating on 
the stomach and impairs digestion. The convenient coffee or tea 
strainer, of which an illustration is given, is applied or detached in a 
moment, being held in place by a spring, as 
shown in cut, inserted in the spout. The 
strainer separates the dregs from the tea or 
coffee as it is poured, 't is made to fit any 
coffee or tea-pot. TL3 solid rim is of pure 
britannia and is ctiriily kept clean and 
bright. A similar strainer is made to attach; 
to the faucets of urns. In serving from the 
butler's pantry the liquid may be poured into cups through a small 
handled strainer answering the same purpose. To keep the coffee- 
pot or tea-pot thoroughly pure, boil a little borax or soda in them, 
in water enough to touch the whole inside surface, once or twice a 
week, for about fifteen minutes. No dish-water should ever touch 
the inside of either. It is sufficient to rinse them in two or three 
waters ; this should be done as soon after they are used as possible. 
Drain dry, and when ready to use, scald out in two waters. These 
precautions will aid in preserving the flavor of the tea and coffee. 

MAKING TEA. 

Tea is one of those luxuries which custom clothes in the gar- 
ments of necessity. There is, however, in connection with tea one 
point which should not be forgotten. To maintain ordinary health 
the body requires immediate nourishment early itj the morning, and 
for that reason tea, which retards the action of the natural functions 
should be banished from the breakfast table, and should appear at 
lunch and after dinner. Certain rules should be followed by habit- 
ual tea-dri^ker8, if they wish to use their favorite beverage without 




DRINKS. 181 

n jurious effects : After a full meal, when the system is oppressed ; 
for the corpulent and the old ; for hot climates, and especially for 
those who, living there, eat freely, or drink milk or alcohol ; in cases 
of suspended animation ; for soldiers and others marching in hot 
climates ; for then, by promoting evaporation and cooling the body, 
it prevents in a degree the effects of too much food, as of too great 
heat. It is a mistake to make tea strong, if the full flavor is desired. 
Professional tea-tasters use but a single pinch to a cup of boiling 
water. In China and Russia, where tea is made to perfection, it is 
very weak, boiling water being poured on a few leaves, the decoction 
covered for a few minutes, and then drank hot and clear. Two 
minutes is long enough for tea to stand, and it should never be 
boiled, or the fine aroma which exists in the volatile oil will 
be thrown off by evaporation, leaving as flavoring only the 
princij^le of the tannic acid extracted by boiling. If tea 
be ground like coffee, or crushed immediately before hot water 
is po .red upon it, it will yield nearly double the amount of its exhil- 
arating qualities. Freshly boiled soft water is the best for either tea or 
coffee, and the tea should be added as soon as it boils, as boiling 
expels all the gases from the water ; but if soft water can not be 
had, boil hard water from twenty to thirty minutes before using ; the 
boiling drives off the gases in this case, but it also causes the lime 
and mineral matters, which render the water hard, to settle, thus 
softening it ; and to avoid the limy taste often in water boiled in a 
tea-kettle, put a clean oyster shell in the kettle, which will always 
keep it in good order by attracting all particles that may be impreg- 
nated in the water. If hard water must be used in making tea, a 
little carbonate of soda put into the tea-pot will both increase the 
strength of the tea and make it more nutritious, the alkali dissolving 
the gluten to some extent. The best tea-pot is that which retains 
heat longest, and this is a bright metal one, as it radiates the least 
heat, but the metal must be kept bright and polished ; some still pre- 
fer the old-fashioned earthen pot. The most elegant mode of serving 
tea is from the tea-urn, various forms and designs of which are made 
in silver and plated ware. Always have a water-pot of hot water on 
the waiter with which to weaken each cup when desired. To insure 
'* keeping hot " while serving in a different tea-pot from that in 
which the tea is made, the simple contrivance kno^^^l as the 
■'bonnet,'' or "cozy," is warranted a sure preventive against that 




182 DRINKS. 

most insipid of all drinks — a warmish cup of tea. It is merely a 
sack, with a loose gathering-tape in the bottom, large enough to 
cover and encircle the tea-pot, with a small opening to fit the spout, 
and a slit though which the handle 
will be exposed. Make it with odd 
pieces of silk, satin or cashmere, 
lined, quilted or embroidered; draw( 
this over the tea-pot as soon as the 
tea is poured into it ; draw up the 
gathering, string tightly at the bot- Tea or coffee stand. 

tom, and the tea will remain piping hot for half an hour. Some 
make a simple, quilted, oval case entirely covering the pot and reach- 
ing quite to the teapot stand, lifting it off each time the tea is poured. 

The tea-float is a very useful addition to the tea-pot. The tea is 
placed in the float, and the float in the tea-pot. Boiling water is 
added as in ordinary tea-making. The float rises to the surface and 
thus retains the tea at the hottest part of the water, instead of its 
sinking to the bottom, which is the coldest part. By this applica- 
tion of natural laws and the chemistry of tea-making all the strength 
of the tea is withdrawn, and the infusion is far stronger than when 
prepared in the usual way. A smaller quantity of tea is therefore 

required when the tea-float is used. The float can be prof ■• i of 

any grocer or tea dealer. Some consider high priced teas less desir- 
able for general use than the medium qualities, both on account of 
their prices, and because, owing to their purity and strength, they 
abound in deleterious properties. 

The tea-pot should not only be emptied after being used, but 
made perfectly clean inside as well as outside. After a thorough 
wiping turn it upside down, that the drops may run from the spout, 
and when ready to be put away twist the corner of the towel and 
wipe the inside of the spout, and put the tea-pot in its place with 
the cover raised ; when it is again required pour in boiling water to 
heat it thoroughly. It is well to keep a small tea-kettle for the 
express purpose of boiling water for tea, thus surely avoiding for 
this delicate drink the water which has boiled and re-boiled repeat- 
edly during the day for filling up the various kettles. 

The green teas are the Gunpowder, considered the best, and 
Hyson sorts, with their different varieties, both of which are manu- 
faetured in China and Japan, while only the former is obtained from 



DRINKS. 183 

Java. The black teas are manufactured in China, Assam and Java, 
and from the two former countries come the Congo and Pekoe sorts 
under the latter of which the Oolong, a general favorite, and 
Souchong varieties are classed. Java exports the Congo, and also a 
black tea made up into little balls the size of a pea, known as the 
Imperial. India gives the English Breakfast and Caper varieties. 
As is now well known the difference between green tea and black 
lies in the fact that in the former fermentation Las been arrested by 
" firing, " the color of the leaf being in this way partially preserved 
and fixed, while with the latter, by a much longer process, fermen- 
tation up to a certain point is permitted, and the leaves are not "fired" 
until they have become oxidized by exposure to the air. Only green 
tea is manufactured in Japan, and is considered superior to that of 
China and Java, where the black teas are principally produced. The 
Chinese give an artificial coloring to the green teas exported, em- 
ploying for this purpose native indigo and gypsum. In Japan, tea is not 
grown for export only, but isthechie- article of home consumption ; 
and the domestic teas as prrcured in that country are probably the 
only samples of unadulterated green tea to be had, and are known 
as the green Japan and uncolored Japan. In common usage Japan 
tea means the green variety, which is used largely in tea mixtures, 
while the uncolored is used more often by itself as is also the Gun- 
powder and Hyson. The first pickings of teas are considered choic- 
est, containing more of the oil, and prices are established in that 
way, consequently each variety will have a first, second and third 
grade. A cup of the finest tea will show particles of the oil upon 
its su ace. 

The Chinese employ numerous odoriferous plants for the pur- 
pose of giving special scents to different varieties of tea. Some 
mixtures we" iiked are as follows, and it is most generally conceded 
that mixed tea is preferable : An excellent English mixture of black 
teas combines cheapness with fineness of flavor, and is composed of 
one pound of Congo tea with a quarter pound each of Assam and 
Orange Pekoe ; a mixture of black and green teas is foiur parts of 
black to one of green, but a very fine mixture in point of flavor is 
one-half Oolong (black), one quarter each Gunpowder and green 
Japan, or three-fourths green Japan and one-fourth Oolong, or three- 
fourths English Breakfast and one-eighth each Gunpowder and green 
Japan ; or half each English Breakfast and any green tea. "Wher« 




184 DRINKS. 

a mixture of uncolored Japan is used it is with an equal part of 
Oolong. Where health is taken into consideration the mixture using 
less of the green should be preferred, as owing to the 
different process of drying the green contains more 
of the injurious tannin. 

To preserve the strength of tea or coffee requires I 
a close receptacle. Nothing is better than the tin] 
cans with close covers, japanned on the outside sur- 
face, kept for sale for this purpose. They are made 
neatly labeled on the side for "tea" or "coffee," so 
that there is no mistaking the one for the other, and no loss of time 
in getting what is wanted. 

CACAO AND CHOCOLATE. 

Cacao (improperly called cocoa) and Chocolate, are obtained 
from the seeds of Theohroma cacao, a small tree that grows in Mex- 
ico, Central America, the West Indies and other islands. ■ The seed 
receptacle resembles a large black cucumber, containing from ten to 
thirty beans, which are roasted like coffee. The husks are then 
taken off, and are called cacao shells. The best cacao is made from 
the bean after the husks are removed. 

Cacao is rich in nutritive elements. Like mi'k, it has all the 
substances necessary for the growth and sustenance of the body. 
The active principle is theobromine, a substance which resembles 
the alkaloids of coffee and tea, except that it coi>tai. s mare nitrogen 
than theine and caffeine. Another important differ^ e between 
cacao and coffee or tea is the large amoun^ of fat or cacao-buttci* 
contained in the kernel. These kernels consist of gum, starch and 
vegetable oil, and are marketed in four different forms : cacao sh jIIs, 
which are the husks of the kernel ; cacao nibs, the crushed kernel; 
ground cacao, the kernels ground fine, and chocolate, the kernels 
ground to a fine powder and mixed to a stiff paste with or without 
sugar, and sometimes a little starch. It is very nutritious, but be- 
ing rich in fatty matters is difficult to digest. For t'.iis reason many 
skim off the oil that rises to the surface as the beverage cools after 
boiling, and some manufacturers now remove the fats. A small cake 
weighing about two ounces will satisfy hunger, and is a good lunch 
for travelers, especially if eaten Avith fruit. Cacao and chocolatc- 
while very nutritious, are perfectly free from the possible injurious 



DRINKS. 185 

influences of tea and coffee ; and the more finely powdered tliey are 
the more palatable and nutritious are the' beverages made from them. 
Actual boiling is advantageous in the preparation of either, as it 
thoroughly incorporaies them with the liquid used. Nearly a.L 
brands of cacao and chocolate are recommended to be prepared at 
table ; but it is much better to prepare them before the meal, and 
allow to boil a minute or two before serving. But too long boiling 
spoils the flavor. The custard kettle should be used in making 
cacao or chocolate, especially when milk is used, thus preventing 
the possibility of burning. A good proportion is one tablespoon of 
either cacao or grated chocolate to each person, with one-half pint 
milk, cream and milk, or milk and water, as used. If sweetened be- 
fore sending to table, the sugar must be stirred in after it has boiled, 
and a grain of salt is added by some after taking from the fire to 
remove the flat taste noticed. Excellent brands of chocolate are 
Baker's, Runkle's and Blooker's ;the two former come in cakes, both 
sweetened and unsweetened, and the latter in a fine dry powder, 
ready for use, which saves the trouble of grating and is preferred by 
many. Allow a large teaspoon of the powder to each cup milk, and 
mix to a paste with a little cold milk, then add boiling milk. 

In the preparation of the above, and all beverages and foods, be 
sure that the water used is pure and fresh. If there is any reason to 
suspect that it is not, have it hoilecl before using. As several pints 
of water are daily taken into the body, this is one of the most impor- 
tant foods we have, and good water should be one of the indispen- 
sables in every household. Distilled water is the nearest ally to abso- 
lutely pure water, but can not be prepared by any easy process at 
home and is made chiefly by chemists and druggists in their trade. 
It is sometimes very essential in illness. The purest waters weget in a 
natural state are, it is said, melted ice and snow. Rain water con- 
tains gases it absorbs in passing through the air, but is the best and 
purest water to use wheji filtered ; spring or well water, though 
usuall}' looking transparent enough and tasting well, is impregnated 
with saline matter ; river water has a smaller quantity of saline mat- 
ter than spring water, but its organic impurities are in all likelihood 
far greater, and before it can be utilized for drinking it must have its 
impurities removed by filtering. Filters are now comparatively inex- 
pensive, and every family valuing health should possess one. There 
are many good ones, the new upward filter possessing some advan- 



186 DRINKS. 

tages over other kinds. To cool water without ice, put it into an 
earthen jug with a wet cloth wrapped about it, and hang in an open 
window where a breeze is blowing through ; the evaporation from the 
surface of the jug abstracts the heat from the water within. 



Broma. — Have three pints milk, or half milk and water, scald- 
ing over boiling water ; mix two or three tablespoons broma smooth 
with a few spoonfuls boiling water, and when the milk is hot stir it 
in, having first mixed half a gill or more of milk with the broma ; leave 
it ten minutes, or until slightly thickened, then serve. 

Cacao Nibs. — Put a gill of the cacao nibs in a pot with two 
quarts water, and boil gently one and a half to two hours. There 
should be a quart of liquid in the pot when done. If the boiling 
has been so rapid that there is not this quantity, add more water, 
and let it boil once again. Many people prefer half broken cacao 
nibs and half shell. If the stomach is delicate, this is better than 
all nibs. Sugar and cream are used, as with coffee. When making 
Cacao Shells use twice the quantity of shells, or less may be used 
with same amount water, and boil as above ; or, if milk is liked, put 
over the fire with one quart water, and when nearly done add a quart 
milk. 

Chocolate. — Take six tablespoons scraped chocolate, or three of 
chocolate and three of cacao, dissolved in a quart boiling water, boil 
hard fifteen minutes, add one quart rich milk, let scald and serve 
hot ; this is enough for six persons. Cacao can also be made after 
this recipe. Some boil either cacao or chocolate only one minute 
and then serve, while others make it ihe day before using, boiling it 
for one hour, and when cool skimming off the oil ; when wanted 
for use, heat it to the boiling point and add the milk. In this way 
it is equally good and much more wholesome. 

Chocolate. — For twelve people take six ounces chocolate, pour 
over it one pint boiling water, add eight ounces sugar and cook until 
it becomes a smooth paste. Then add enough sweet cream for the 
iiumber of cups. Heat the whole in a custard kettle and it is ready 
for use. This will of course be very rich. 

Meringued Chocolate. — Three pints fresh milk, three table- 
spoons Baker's chocolate, grated, two tablespoons sugar, powdered 
for froth. Heat milk to scalding. Wet up chocolate with one cup 
boiling water and when the milk is hot stir this into it. Simmer 
gently ten minutes, stirring frequently. Boil up briskly once, take 
from the fire, sweeten to taste, taking care not to make it too sweet, 
and stir in the whites of two eggs whipped stiff, without sugar. Pour 
into the chocolate pot or pitcher, which should be well heated ; have 



DRIWKS. 187 

ready in a cream pitcher the well-whipped whites of three eggs with 
three tablespoons powdered sugar. Cover the surface of each cup 
with the sweetened meringue before distributing to the guests. If 
liked, substitute scented chocolate for Baker's. 

]Vliip2jed Chocolate. — Wet three tablespoons chocolate with a 
little boiling water; scald one quart milk, stir in the chocolate paste 
and simmer ten minutes ; put a whip-churn into the boiling mixture 
and churn steadily over the fire until it is a yeasty froth. Serve- at 
once. Very delicious and easily prepared ; or melt four ounces 
grated chocolate over a boiling kettle, add gradually three cups boil- 
ing water and one ounce sugar. Set it upon the fire, and when 
scalding hot pour it upon the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, with 
one and one half gills cold water, and a pinch of cinnamon, and re- 
turn it to the fire for a few moments to cook the egg. It must not 
boil but should be beaten with the egg beater all the time. Serve 
very hot. 

Crust Coffee. — Brown in oven to almost charring, outside crusts, 
slices, or any small pieces of white, rye, or Graham bread (the latter 
is richer and gives a finer flavor), being as careful as in roasting 
cofiee that it is not burned. Make in proportion of two quarts hot 
water to four or five slices or their equivalent in small pieces, boil 
from an hour to an hour and a half and serve as other coffee, which 
it should resemble in color. Make as second recipe for Iced Tea 
and Iced Crust Coffee will result. 

Iced Coffee. — Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time and 
stronger. Add one third as much hot milk as coffee and set away. 
When cold put upon ice. Serve as dessert with cracked ice in each 
tumbler. Or, make strong coffee and when it is cold mix it with 
an equal quantity of fresh cream, sweeten to taste and half freeze. 
Iced Tea may be made the same way. 

Imjjerial Coffee. — For two persons, take four rounding teaspoons 
coffee tied up in a piece of Swiss muslin, (leave plenty of room for 
expansion) ; pour on two cups boiling water, cover closely and set 
back on the range about ten minutes. Break one egg in a large 
coffee-cup, give it a good whip with an egg-beater, divide it, half in 
each cup, add the usual quantity of sugar, pour on the hot coffee, 
add warm milk and one spoonful cream. 

Cafe au Lait. — First heat the coffee cups and then fill each one- 
third full of hot but not boiled cream, filling up with good clear 
coffee. Or when cream cannot be had, use boiled milk, in any pro- 
portion liked, being guided by the strength of the coffee, Hal- 



188 DRINKS. 

and half is a good rule, though 8om3 prefer more and others less 
coffee. A little cream turned into the cup Avith hot milk just before 
filling up with coffee is a gn^at improvetnent. Frothed C'afeau Lait 
is made as above, putting spoonfuls of the whipped whites of egss, 
slightly sweetened, on the top of each cup, heaping a little in the 
center. 

Coffee Syrup. — Take half pound best ground coffee, put it into 
a saucepan containing three pints water, and boil it down to one 
pint ; boil the liquor, put it into another saucepan, well scoured, and 
boil it again. As it boils add white sugar enough to give the con- 
sistency of syrup ; take it from the fire, and when it is cool ]mt in a 
bottle and seal. When traveling, if you wish for a cup of good 
coffee put two teaspoons of the syrup into an ordinary cup, and 
pour boiling water upon it, anc^ it is ready to use. A weaker syrup 
is made thus: To every quartei pound ground coffee allow one small 
teaspoon powdered chicory, and one pint water. Let the coffee be 
freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly roasted ; put it into a filter 
with the chicory and pour slowly over it the above proportion of 
boiling water. When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee 
sufficiently to bring it to the simmering point, but do not allow it to 
boil ; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, 
cork it well, and it will remain good for several days. Two table- 
spoons of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast cup of hot 
milk. This essence will be found particularly useful to those per- 
sons who have to rise extremely early, and having only the milk to 
make boiling, is very easily and quickly prepared. When the es- 
sence is bottled, pour about three tea-cups of boiling water slowly 
on the grounds, which, when filtered through, will be a very weak 
coflfee. The next time there is essence to be prepared, make this 
weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the ground coffee instead of plain 
water ; by this means a better coflfee will be obtained. Never throw 
away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner, 
and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation, until 
the day that it is wanted for making the frech essence. 

Iced Tea. — To have it perfect and without the least trace of bit- 
ter, put tea in cold water hours before it is to be used, the night pre- 
vious if for breakfast or twelve-o'clock dinner, and in the morning if 
for tea ; the delicate flavor of the tea and abundant strength Avill be 
extracted, and there will not be a trace of the tannic acid which ren- 
ders tea so often disagreeable and undrinkable. Use only the usual 
quantity of tea. Put broken ice in it a few minutes before serving. 
Iced tea can be served with a light froth like that of ale on top, if 
shaken with the ice in it in two glasses placed one over the other — the 
brims together. Another method is to prepare tea in the morning, 
making it stronger and sweeter than usual ; strain and pour into a 
clean stone jug or glass bottle, and set aside in the ice-chest until 



DRINKS. 189 

ready to use. Drink from goblets without cream. Serve ice broken 
in small pieces on a platter garnished with well-washed grape leaves. 
Russian Tea. — Place in a teapot three heaped tablespoons Eng- 
lish break fa-t ten, pour over it three pints boiling water, let infuse 
ft)r four minutes, flavor with vanilla and a few drops oflemonjiiice, 
add a little powdered sugar and serve. Or a thin slice of lemon 
may be used instead of lemon juice. 

Tea for Forty. — Have two and one-half gallons boiling water 
ready, put a quarter pound tea in a box made of perforated tin, or 
in a muslin bag, and drop it into the water, which must then be 
kept from boiling and set where it will be kept hot. May be served 
like coffee with v/hipped cream or a meringue of whites of eggs on 
each cup. 

Tea an Lait. — Beat a teaspoon or so of su^ar with the whipped 
white of an egg ; stir in a glass of new milk and then a cup very hot 
tea, beating all up well together and sweetening to taste. A very 
palatable mixture and valuabk for persons who suffer much from 
weakness. 

Strawberry Acid. — Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two 
quarts water and pour it upon twelve pounds strawberries in a por- 
celain kettle ; let it simmer forty-eight hours, strain, taking care net 
to bruise the fruit ; to every pint juice add one and one-half pounds 
sugar and stir until dissolved, then leave it a few days ; bottle and 
cork lightly ; if a slight fermentation takes place leave the cork out 
a few days, then cork, seal and keep bottles in a cold place. Drink, 
mixing desired quantity wi h ice water. To make Royal Strawberry 
Acid take three pounds ripe strawberries, two ounces citric acid and 
one quart water ; dissolve the acid in the water and pour it over the 
berries ; let them stand in a cool place twenty-four hours, draw off, 
and pour in three pounds more berries and let stand twenty-four 
hours ; add to the liquor its own weight of sugar, boil three or four 
minutes each day for three days, then cork tightly and seal. Keep 
in a dry and cool place. 

Iced Buttermilk. — There is no healthier drink than buttermilk, 
but it must be creamy, rich buttermilk to be good. And to provide 
for this, when skimmmg the milk take plenty of milk with the cream, 
using a dipper for the purpose instead of a skimmer. It should 
stand on ice to cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice in it is 
an improvement. As a drink for men at work in the hot sun butter- 
milk is far preferable to cider or beer, as it is not only cooling and 
refreshing, but strength-giving ; for the butter taken from the milk 
is only the carbonaceous or heat-producing element, and all the 
nourishing qualities that make it so valuable as food are left in the 
buttermilk. 



190 DRINKS. 

Curry Cordial. — Boil one pint good milk and add a teaspoon 
curry powder and sugar to taste. Drink while hot. Good on a 
frosty morning. 

Currant Cup. — To a pint currant juice add one pound sugar, 
and ice-water to taste ; mix and use at once. 

Fruit Cup. — Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lem- 
ons, squeeze the juice over it in an earthen bowl, and let it stand 
overnight if possible ; pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, 
and let it lay overnight in a half pound powdered sugar ; crush one 
quart berries and let them lay overnight in half pound powdered 
sugar. If all these ingredients cannot be prepared the day before 
they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, because 
the juices of the fruit need to be incori^orated with the sugar at least 
twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all the ingredients 
have been properly prepared as above, strain off the juice, carefully 
pressing all of it out of the fruit ; mix it with two pounds powdered 
sugar and three quarts ice-water, and stir until sugar is dissolved. ' 
Then strain again through a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve and put 
on the ice or in very cool place until wanted for use. 

Harvest Drink. — One quart Avater, tablespoon sifted ginger, 
three heaping tablespoons sugar, half pint vinegar ; add spices to 
taste if wished. 

Jelly DrinJc. — A little jelly or fruit syrup dissolved in a glass 
of ice-water with a little sugar is a refreshing drink. 

Lemon Drink. — Seven pounds white sugar, two quarts boiling 
water ; let boil ten minutes, then take off and let stand till cool ; add 
two ounces tartaric acid, one-half ounce gum arable, fifty-four drops 
essence of lemon. 

Oatmeal Drink. — Take four tablespoons Scotch oatmeal, put 
into a small jug and fill up with clear, cool water ; shake well and 
allow it to settle. This makes a most refreshing drink in hot weather 
and quenches thirst more than any other liquid. 

Soda Foam. — Two pounds white sugar, whites of two eggs, two 
ounces tartaric acid, two tablespoons flour, two quarts water and 
juice of one lemon ; boil two or three minutes, and flavor to taste. 
When wanted for use take a half teaspoon soda, dissolve in half a 
glass water, pour into it about two tablespoons of the acid, and it 
will foam to the top of the glass. 

Lemonade, — The method of making this universally popular 
and refreshing beverage varies according to the taste of individuals, 
some liking the flavor of the rind, others not, and some preferring 
inore, others less sugar. It will be well to remember that when the 
rind or peel is used the lemonade is spoiled by standing, the soaked 
rind giving it a bitter taste, and to be good it must be served imme- 



DRINKS. 191 

diately after making. Instead of using cracked ice, many prefer to 
half freeze lemonades, sherbets, and all drinks of the kind, serving 
in glasses as usual, and this is considered much the more elegant 
way. Or the same effect may be produced by pounding ice in a bag 
into fine particles and add to the lemonade, previously cooled on or 
with ice, just before serving.. Or, if necessary to prepare hastily, 
crack the ice into small bits and place some in the bottom of each 
glass before filling, beside adding it to the quantity of liquid. Always 
roll the lemons with the hand on the table before using, as this 
breaks up the fibers and the juice can then be extracted more easily 
and thoroughly ; and in making lemonade always remove the seeds. 
The best way of securing the flavor of the rind is to rub the lemons 
with lumps of sugar, or if there are no lumps sprinkle some of the 
sugar on a plate and roll the lemons over it ; this extracts the oil of 
the rind, and the sugar used, which is now called the "zest," is added 
to that intended for sweetening. Some boil the peel in a little water 
and strain it for flavoring, or let it stand in water an hour or two. 

A very nice Every-day Lemonade is made as follows : Roll six 
""emons well, peel, cut in halves, and 
•vith the lemon squeezer squeeze the 
juice over two cups white sugar, add 
the pulp and let stand till the sugar 
dissolves, add one gallon water and 
lumps of ice, pour into pitcher and 
tserve. Some add soda after the glasses 
Are filled, and stir rapidly for SparJi- 

ling Lemonade. If the flavor is liked Lemon squeezer^ 

add the zest from two or three of the lemons. Or, if wanted strong- 
er, take the juice of one dozen lemons, three quarts water, and eight 
ounces sugar, or sweeten to taste ; partially freeze, or add pounded 
ice. For Lemon Frappee add the whipped whites of six eggs. 
Some use a half pint lemon juice to three pints water and one pint 
Bugar. Another excellent recipe requires one-half pound loaf sugar, 
three large or four small lemons, and a quart boiling water. RuD 
some of the sugar, in lumps, on two of the lemons until they have 
imbibed all the oil from them, and put with the remaijider of the 
sugar into a jug ; add the lemon juice (but no seeds), and pour over 
the whole the quart of boiling Avater. When the sugar is dissolved, 
strain lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and when 
cool it will be ready for use ; much improved by adding the well- 
beaten white of an egg. Tutti Frutti Lemonade is made thus : 
Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons and 
steep it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil a pound and a half 
loaf sugar in three pints water, skimming until it is clear. Pour 
these two mixtures together; add to juice of six oranges and 
twelve lemons, mix and strain through a jelly-bag until clear, and 
keep cool until wanted for use. If the beverage is to be kept several 




192 DRINKS. 

days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and corked tightly. 
If for a small party, half the quantity will be sufficient. The juice 
of oranges improves any lemonade. When a lemon squeezer is not 
at hand slice the lemons thinly into a crock or pitcher over the 
sugar, let stand a few minutes and pound with the potato masher to 
extract the juice, add the water and strain. If it is thought that the 
slices of lemon add to the appearance of lemonade, cut one lemon 
in very thin slices for the purpose, sprinkling sugar over them, and 
add last, or put a slice or two in each glass. Orangeade is made 
same as lemonade, substituting oranges and using a little less sugar. 

EiFervescing Lemonade. — Work into one pound granulated 
sugar thirty-three drops oil of lemon, and sift through hair sieve ; 
sift into this two and a half ounces tartaric acid and then two and a 
half ounces carbonate of soda. Keep the compound air-tight and 
perfectly dry. Use by stirring two teaspoons of it into a glass of 
ice-water. Buy the materials of reliable druggist, and keep in tight- 
ly corked bottles. 

Egg Lemonade. — This recipe makes fifty glasses. Eight quarts 
water, three pour'^s sugar (six or seven cups), two dozen lemons, 
two oranges, whi .s of eight or ten eggs ; grate the rinds of eight or 
ten lemons and t le oranges into a large bowl, using a tin grater, and 
take less or more according to the size and degree of ripeness of the 
fruit. Put a little sugar in the bowl and rub together with the back 
of a spoon. Squeeze in the juice of all, add the sugar and some 
water, and then the frothed whites of eggs and beat the mixture until 
the sugar is dissolved. Put in remainder of water, strain into a ves- 
sel containing a quantity of cracked ice, and when served fill a glass 
three parts full, invert another on top, the rims close together, and 
shake up to make the foam. Use half or quarter of the recipe if this 
quantity is too large. 

Hot Lemonade. — To six lemons allow three-quarters pound 
lump sugar and a pint boiling water ; rub the lemons with some of 
the sugar, peel them very thin, strain the juice, put it with the sugar 
into a jug or pitcher and pour over it four pints boiling water ; cover 
the jug well with a cloth to keep in the steam and drink hot. Or, 
take the juice of one lemon for one glass and sweeten to taste. 
Excellent for a cold 

Milk Lemonade. — juoaf sugar, one and a half pounds, dissolved 
in a quart boiling water, with half a pint lemon juice and, one and r 
half pints milk. 

PirnTC Lemonade. — HoU the lemons ; peel, ana squeeze the 
juice into a bowl or tumbler — never use tin — and strain out seeds, as 
they give a bad taste. Boil the puljp in water, a pint to a dozen pulps, 
to remove the acid. A few minutes' boiling; is enough. Strain tiw 



DRINFS. 193 

water into the juice of the lemons ; take a pound white sugar to a 
pint liquid, boil ten minutes, bottle, and it is ready for use. Put a 
teaspoon or tAvo of this s}Tup to a glass of water. Or, roll the fruit 
in a little granulated sugar spread upon a marble or other hard 
surface to obtain the zest, squeeze the lemons into a bowl, remove 
seeds and add sugar and zest. Bottle and add a teaspoon or two to 
water as wanted. 

Pocket Lemonade. — One ounce powdered tartaric acid, six 
ounces powdered white sugar and one drachm essence of lemon ; mix 
and dr)'- thoroughly in the sun, divide into twenty-four equal parts, 
and wrap carefully in paper ; each powder makes a glass of nice 
sweet lemonade. Most excellent and refreshing when traveling. 

Mead. — Three pounds brown sugar, one pint molasses, one- 
fourth pound tartaric acid ; pour over the mixture two quarts boil- 
ing water and stir till dissolved. When cold add half ounce essence 
sassafras, or flavor with fruit juices, orange or lemon peel or aro- 
matic herbs, and bottle. To make a nice drink put three table- 
spoons of it in a tumbler, half fill Avith ice water, add a little more 
than one-fourth teaspoon soda and drink while foaming. 

Blackherry Nectar. — To each quart water take one pound 
crushed berries, a sliced lemon and teaspoon orange flower water; 
mix and let stand in earthen bowl three hours; strain thoroughly, 
squeezing all juice from fruit ; dissolve one pound sugar in the liquid, 
strain again and put on ice until ready to serve ; or half freeze it. 
Any other berries may be used in their season. 

dierry Nectar. — Select the finest and ripest of May-Duke or 
Morello cherries. Pound well with stones in them. The stones are 
retained because they add to the native flavor of the pulp. Press 
out the juice through a hair sieve, add a little water and give one 
boil, filter through a flannel bag, add a small quantity syrup, a little 
lemon juice and a little more water. Do not make too sweet. The 
tendency in all these cordials is to extinguish the sub-acids of the 
fruit in too much sugar. Put into a freezer surrounded by ice ; keep 
as cold as wished by surrounding with ice. Do not dilute it by put- 
ting ice into the beverage itself. 

Cream Nectar. — Put into a porcelain kettle three pounds loaf 
sugar, two ounces tartaric acid and one quart water ; set on the fire, 
and when warm add the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth, stir it 
well for a few minutes but do not let boil. When cool, strain and 
add a teaspoon essence of lemon and bottle. Put two tablespoonfuls 
in a glass, fill it half full of cold water and stir in one-fourth tea- 
spoon soda. Drink while effervescing. 

Grape Nectar. — Stem and squeeze well two pounds Catawba 
grapes in a coarse cloth, add to the juice three tablespoons loaf 

i-O 



194 DRINKS. 

sugar and when this is dissolved a cup cold water ; set on ice till cold, 
pour into pitcher over a lump of ice and drink at once. Add more 
sugar if liked, or if grapes are not quite ripe. Very good. 

Welsh Nectar. — Cut the peel of three lemons very thin, pour 
upon it two gallons boiling water, and when cool add the strained 
juice of the lemons, two pounds loaf sugar and one pound raisins, 
stoned and chopped very fine. Let stand four or five days, stirring 
every day, then strain through jelly-bag and bottle for present use. 

Orangeade. — Put thin peel of three oranges in one pint syrup 
(made by boiling three-fourths pound loaf sugar in one pint 
water). Press out the juice of twelve fine large oranges through a 
fine hair sieve into a crock or pitcher. Add the syrup and three pints 
cold water, mix, and let stand in ice for an hour. 

Lemon Sherbet. — Grate the rinds of two lemons into a bowl and 
squeeze in the juice ; make a boiling syrup of one pound sugar and 
one pint water and pour it hot over this, and let remain till cold, or 
as long as convenient, to extract the flavor. Then add one pint 
water, strain into the freezer and freeze as usual. When pretty well 
frozen whip whites of three eggs to a froth, stir them in, beat up 
and freeze again. Or soak tablespoon gelatine in a little cold water 
and add it to one pint boiling water ; then add pint each sugar and 
water and juice of five lemons and half-freeze ; or boil pint and a 
half sugar and three pints water half an hour ; add juice of ten 
lemons, strain and half freeze. For Orange Sherlet make as either 
of above recipes using twice as many oranges, and if not very acid 
add juice of a lemon. For Pineapple Sherhet use one large pine- 
apple or one and a half cans. Cut hearts and eyes from the fruit, 
chop fine and add pint sugar and juice from can and the soaked table- 
spoon gelatine dissolved in half pint boiling water ; then add half 
pint cold water and half freeze as above ; or cook fruit in pint water 
twenty minutes, and then pulp through a sieve ; boil a syrup of 
pint each sugar and water fifteen minutes and then add fruit pulp 
and cook fifteen minutes longer, add juice from cans and freeze. 

Milh Sherhet. — Boil two quarts milk ; when cold put into 
freezer. Take the juice of six or seven lemons — according to size, 
and one pound and a half sugar, dissolved in as little water as pos-- 
sible. AVhip whites of two eggs and stir in the milk ; add the lemon 
juice after it begins to freeze a little; then mix thoroughly and 
freeze. 

Pine-apple Sherhet. — One pine-apple, four lemons, two quarts 
water, two teacups sugar ; steep the pine-apple in the water for two 
hours ; strain and add the juice of the lemons and sugar ; whip the 
whites of five eggs, add to them three tablespoons sugar, place all in 
freezer and half freeze. Adding the sugar to the whites gives body 
to the sherl>ct ; it is excellent. To onc-lialf frnllon rich lemon;icTe 



DRINKS. 195 

add one can prepared pine-apple ; whip one pint cream and sweeten, 
add the whites of three well-beaten eggs and stir them both in lust 
before freezing. Serve in glasses. 

Strawberry Sherlet — Crush a pound berries and add to them 
one quart water, a sliced lemon, and one teaspoon orange flower 
water, if at hand. Let stand in an earthen bowl for throe hours ; 
then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one 
pound powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on ice until 
ready to serve. Or mash two quarts berries and one pint sugar to- 
gether and let stand two hours, then add pint water and strain, rub 
through a sieve, soak a tablespoon gelatine in cold water to cover, 
add half pint boiling water and pour this to the mixture and half 
freeze. Raspberry Sherbet is made same way. For CiLrrant Sher- 
bet, take pint each juice, water and sugar, one tablespoon gelatine, 
and juice of one lemon ; soak gelatine in a little cold water, and dis- 
solve it in half pint boiling water, add other ingredients and freeze; 
or boil one quart water and pint sugar half an hour ; add pint cur- 
rant juice and juice of a lemon, let cool and freeze. 

Currant Shrub. — Make the same as jelly, but boil only ten 
minutes ; when cool, bottle and cork tight, as canned fruits. Rasp- 
berry, Strawberry and Blackberry Shi'ubs can be made in the same 
way ; when used, put in two-thirds ice-water ; or place currants in 
crock and cover with a little water ; put in a kettle of hot water and 
when heated through, drain, let stand overnight and finish as Rasp- 
berry Shrub. 

Gooseberry Shrub. — Pour enough boiling water over green 
gooseberries to cover them, and place a cloth over them ; let stand 
till cold, drain, and place juice on stove, and when boiling pour 
again over the berries, cover, cool, drain, and proceed as before. 
Then drain, let stand overnight, and finish as Raspberry Shrub. 

Raspberry Shrub or Yinegar. — Place red raspberries in a stone 
jar, cover with good cider vinegar, using about one quart vinegar to 
two gallons fruit, let stand two or three days, strain through a jelly- 
bag, squeezing carefully ; let stand overnight so it will become per- 
fectly clear ; measure and place on stove, and boil and skim until 
it boils up clear ; add one pint sugar to every pint juice as just 
measured, and cook half an hour. Let stand till cold, then can and 
seal as directed in Canning Fruits. Some use one-third vinegar (one 
quart to two quarts iruit) but if fruit is juicy the above proportions 
make a much finer flavored shrub. Black raspberries may be used, or 
strawberries, making Strawberry Shrub, and blackberries, using 
for latter only a pint sugar to one quart juice, making BlacJcberry 
Shrub. Some, after straining, let it simmer on back of stove two 
hours, while others let boil ten minutes, in either way canning when 
hot, but the above method has been "tried and not found wanting." 



196 DRINKS. 

Always procure very ripe, juicy fruit. For a drink use +wo or three 
teaspoons to one glass water, according to strength desired. 

Effervescing Soda. — Mix half a teaspoon powdered bicarbonate 
of soda thoroughly with two tablespoons syrup of any flavor liked ; 
add six or eight times as much cold water ; while stirring it mix in 
half teaspoon powdered tartaric acid and drink at once. This is for 
immediate use. Or mix the syrup and water in above proportions and 
fill into bottles ; put in each bottle half a drachm each of crystal- 
lized bicarbonate of potassa and crystallized tartaric acid and cork 
immediately. The above quantity is for soda bottles ; wine bottles 
will require double the quantity. 

Lemon Syrup. — Take the juice of twelve lemons, grate the rind 
of six in it, let it stand overnight, then take six pounds white sugar 
and make a thick syrup. When it is quite cool strain the juice into 
it and squeeze as much oil from the grated rind as will suit the taste, 
and bottle. A tablespoon in a glass of water will make a delicious 
drink on a hot day, far superior to that prepared from the stuff com- 
monly sold as lemon syrup. Or, boil two pounds loaf sugar with 
two pints water for fifteen minutes and put in a basin until cold. 
Pound one ounce citric acid to a powder and mix with it one-half 
drachm essence of lemon and add to the syrup, mix well and bottle 
for use. Two tablespoons of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler 
of cold water, and will be found a very refreshing summer drink. 

Orange Syrup. — Use fully ripe thin-skinned fruit ; squeeze the 
juice through a sieve and add a pound sugar to every pint ; boil 
slowly ten minutes, skim carefully, and bottle when cold. Two or 
three tablespoons of this in a glass of ice water will be found a re- 
freshing summer drink. It may also be used with melted butter for 
pudding sauce. 

Tisane. — To make Prune Tisane., take of French plums or 

E runes two ounces and a half; cut them in two and boil them for an 
our in a sufficient quantity of water to make a quart of tisane ; 
strain through a sieve. Date, Fig and Jitjuhe Tisanes are made in 
a similar manner. 

Currant Water. — Pick over one pound cur- 
rants and half pound raspberries and add one- 
half pint water, bruising or crushing all together^ 
with a wooden spoon. Put the pulp into a pre- 
serving kettle with one-half pound crushed loaf 
sugar. Stir over the fire till just about to sim- 
rner, put through a puree sieve and add three p^ee sievr" 

gills syrup (made with sugar and water as in Orangeade) and one 
and one-hall pints water. Let cool and bottle for use. 

Apple Water. — Cut tart apples in small pieces, rejecting the 




DRINKS. 197 



cores, and put over the fire in enough boiling water to cook them, 
with half their weight in sugar ; simmer half an hour, strain through 
a jelly-bag, cool in ice and drink with cracked ice. 

Pine-apple Water. — Peel and slice a nice large pine-apple, and 
pound to a pulp. When well mashed put it into a basin, pouring 
upon it one pint boiling syrup as in Orangeade, add the strained 
juice of one lemon, stir all together and cover. Let staiul for two 
hours untouched, then filter through a fine silk sieve and add a quart 
water. 

Ice-Cream Soda Water. — Put sufiicient syrup of any flavor 
liked and a large tablespoon ice-cream into a large tumbler ; mix 
together with a spoon, fill up with bottled soda water made as in 
Effervescing Soda and quaff at once. If desirable, pounded or 
shaved ice may also be added to the contents of the tumbler before 
the soda water is poured in. 

Strawhei'i'y Water. — Crush with one-half pound finely sifted 
sugar one pound ripe red strawberries, and put them with one-hali 
pint cold spring water. Filter this through a sieve into a pan, adding 
two pints water and the juice (strained) of one lemoo. 



198 EGGS. 



EO^Q^S. 



There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, 
although the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary 
somewhat, and among all nations they are a favorite article of food. 
They are pleasing to the palate, highly nutritious, and easy of di- 
gestion, and are said to contain all that is required for the construc- 
tion and sustenance of the human body ; so that eggs, even at a fancy 
price, are the cheapest of food and should form part of the daily 
bill of fare of every family. Either eggs or cheese or the two 
combined are good substitutes for meat, and in combination with 
vegetables are capable of sustaining strength equivalent to a meat 
diet. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and color. Those 
of the ostrich are the largest ; one laid in the menagerie in Paris 
weighed two pounds, fourteen ounces, held a pint, and was six inches 
deep, which is about the usual size of those brought from Africa, 
Travelers describe ostrich eggs as of an agreeable taste ; they keep 
longer than hens' eggs. The eggs of the turkey are almost as mild 
as those of the hen ; the egg of the goose is large, but well-tasted. 
Ducks' eggs have a rich flavor ; the albumen is slightly transparent, 
or bluish, when set or coagulated by boiling, which requires less time 
than hens' eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate 
than those of the hen. Eggs of wild fowl are generally colored, 
often spotted, and the taste usually partakes somewhat of the 
flavor of the bird they belong to. Those of land birds that are eaten, 
as the plover, lapwing, ruff, etc., are in general much esteemed ; but 
those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy taste. The eggs 
> 



EGGS. 199 

of the turtle are very numerous ; they consist of yolk only, without 
shell, and are delicious. Those of the common hen are most 
esteemed as delicate food, particularly when " new-laid," and those of 
the bantam have a peculiar, delicate flavor. The quality of eggs de- 
pends much upon the food given to the hen. Herbs and grain make 
a much better food than grain only; when the hens eat too many 
insects the eggs have a disagreeable flavor. The eggs of ducks and 
geese are often used in cooking, but are of too coarse a nature to be 
eaten alone ; those of the turkey and pea-hen are highly esteemed 
for some purposes, and plovers' eggs are considered a rare table deli- 
cacy. Eggs are employed in a great many articles of cookery, en- 
trees, and entremets, forming an essential ingredient in pastry, 
creams, custards, etc., but are considered most easily digestible when 
little subjected to the art of cooking. The lightest way of dressing 
eggs is by poaching. The fresher they are the better and more 
wholesome, though new-laid eggs require to be cooked longer than 
others. Eggs over a week old ■will do to fry but not to boil. Do not 
mix eggs in tin ; always use earthenware. When eggs are wanted 
for boiling or packing, test them by putting in water in a vessel with 
a smooth level bottom ; the fresh eggs will sink quickly to the bot- 
tom, those that sink slowly are suspicious, and those that float are 
very likely to be bad ; or, those which lie on the side are good, but 
reject those which stand on end as bad. Still another test is to look 
through each egg separately toward the sun, or toward a lamp in a 
darkened room ; if the white looks clear, and the yolk can be easily 
distinguished, the egg is good ; if a dark spot appears in either white 
or yolk, it is stale ; if they appear hea%^' and dark, or if they gurgle 
when shaken gently, they are "totally depraved." The best and 
safest plan is to break each egg in a saucer before using in cooking, 
and never use one the least spoiled, as if only one egg is sHghtly 
tainted it will " leaven" the whole. 

MAKING OMELETS. 

There are numerous kinds of omelets, and, if properly made, 
they generally give satisfaction. As a rule an omelet is a wholesome, 
inexpensive dish, but yet one in the preparation of Avhich cooks fre- 
nuentlv fail, o^vine to ignorance of detail. The ingredients used 
uittv be varied indefinitely, but the process is always the same. Beat 




200 EGGS. 

the yolks lightly (twelve beats is said to be the magic number), as 
too much beating makes them thin and de- 
stroys the appearance of the omelet, then add 
the milk, the salt, pepper, and flour if any is 
used, and lastly the whites beaten to a stiff 
froth. Some claim that salt mixed with the """" ''""• 

eggs prevents them from rising and gives the omelet a flabby ap- 
pearance, and so sprinkle with a little salt just before turning out on 
dish, or salt at table. Have the frying or omelet pan hot and dry. 
The best way to insure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the 
pan, let it simmer a few minutes, then pour it out, wipe the pan dry 
with a towel, and put in a tablespoon butter or American Cooking 
Oil and pour in the omelet, which should at once begin to bubble 
and rise in flakes ; care should be taken that the butter does not burn, 
thereby spoiling the color of the omelet. Slip under it a thin, 
broad-bladed knife, and every now and then raise it up to prevent 
burning, but never turn, as this flattens and toughens it. As soon 
as the under side is hard enough to hold together, and the eggs be- 
gin to " set," fold over, shake the skillet so as to entirely free the 
omelet, carefully slide it on a hot platter, and serve at once. It 
should be cooked in from three to five minutes. Properly made, 
omelets are not exactly rolled up, but there is a knack to be learned 
of shaping in the pan by shaking them while cooking over to one 
side of pan, the side farthest away, while the handle is uplifted ; 
loosen the edges with a knife when it is cooked nearly enough to 
shake; this is especially the case if a large pan is used, so that the 
eggs will cook in a small space upon one side of pan instead of 
spreading all over and becoming too dry, but a small-sized omelet 
pan, six or eight inches in diameter, is best, so that the mixture whei? 
put in pan may be at least half an inch thick. One reason of ome- 
lets and all fried eggs sticking to the frying-pan is allowing the pan 
to get too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a pan that *8 
kept not too hot till wanted. The pan should be used for no other 
purpose, and should be rubbed smooth, or polished, after using. To 
bake an omelet, place in the frying-pan on top of stove until it be- 
gins to " set" in the middle, then place in a rather hot oven ; when 
slightly browned, fold if liked, or turn a hot dish on top of the pan, 
upset the latter with a quick motion, and so dish the omelet with 
the under side uppermost. It should be baked in from fiv-^ to ten 



EGGS. 201 

minutes. When a large quantity of eggs is used, instead of mak- 
ing into one large omelet, divide and make several, sending each to 
the table as soon as done. Three or four eggs make a good-sized 
omelet, either fried or baked ; some think it an improvement to add 
a tablespoon cream to every two eggs. Ham, chicken, and all kinds 
of meat omelets are made by chopping the meat fine and placing 
between the folds before dishing. In making vegetable (asparagus, 
tomato, cauliflower, etc.) omelets, cook the vegetables as if for the 
table ; place them in the center of the omelet just before folding, or 
scald a little parsley, pour off water, chop and mix with omelet just 
before cooking ; . old cheese grated and added to a plain omelet 
is also a favorite dish. 



Baked Eggs. — Break 'eight eggs carefully into a well buttered 
dish, put in pepper and salt, bits of butter and three tablespoons 
cream — or some sprinkle chopped pickles, such as gherkins, cauli- 
flower, etc., over them ; put in moderate oven and bake about 
twenty minutes or until whites are well set; serve very hot. Or, beat 
six eggs with one tablespoon flour and six of sweet milk ; melt a 
piece of butter in the frying-pan and when hot turn the whole in, 
and bake in very hot oven ; to be served as soon as done. A more 
elaborate and very elegant dish is the f Rowing : Pour enough 
chicken, game or veal gravy into a neat baking dish to cover the bot- 
tom well and stir with it a teaspoon mixed parsley and onion finely 
chopped. Set the dish in the oven until the gravy begins to hiss and 
bubble, when break six eggs into it so that they do not crowd one 
another. Strew bread-crumbs thickly over them, pepper and salt to 
taste and return to the oven three minutes longer, then pour the rest 
of the gravy, which should be hot, over the whole ; add more bread- 
crumbs as fine as dust and bake until eggs are " set." Send to table 
in baking dish. Or take up the eggs carefully one by one and lay 
them on rounds of toasted or fried bread on a hot flat dish ; add a 
little cream, and if liked some very finely chopped parsley and onion, 
to the gravy left in the baking dish, and turn it into a saucepan ; boil 
up once quickly and pour over the eggs. Or add to yolks of six hard- 
boiled eggs one pint grated bread-crumbs, two tablespoons butter and 
salt and pepper to taste ; fill the halved whites with this, put together 
in whole form again and pack closely in a baking dish. A little dress- 
ing will be left, which stir into a batter with one egg beaten light, half 
pint bread-crumbs and pint sweet milk ; pour this over the eggs and 
bake in oven until a nice brown. Baked Eggs with Ham is another 
delicious dish. Chop fine a cup cold ham and mix with it a cup 



202 EGGS. 

bread-crumbs and a high seasoning of salt and pepper ; put into 
buttered patty-pans, set in dripping-pan and put into oven to heat ; 
as soon as they are hot take the pan out of the oven, break an egg 
into each patt3''-pan on the ham and bread and return to oven to Just 
set the whites of the eggs, then serve the baked eggs hot in the little 
patty-pans, setting each one on a tiny plate. 

Boiled Eggs. — In boiling, eggs are less likely to crack if 
dropped in water not quite to the boiling point. They will cook soft 
in three minutes, hard in five, very hard (to serve with salads, or to 
slice ^thin — seasoned well with pepper and salt — and put between 
thin slices of bread and butter) in ten to fifteen minutes. The wire 
egg stand for holding eggs while being boiled, and afterward for the 
table, is very convenient. By using this all risk 
of breaking the eggs when dropping them into 
the boiling water or fishing them out is avoided. 
The eggs are all put in and all removed at the 
game time, insuring uniformity in cooking. 
When a part are to be cooked longer than the 
rest they can be put in first, and those cooked 
less, afterwards, and all removed together. To^ 
cool the shells the stand with the eggs can be 
dipped for an instant in cold water. These 
stands are made in several sizes, holding from wI^Egg stand* 

four to twelve eggs. There is an objection to the ordinary way of 
boiling eggs not generally understood. The white, under three min- 
utes' rapid cooking, is toughened and becomes indigestible, and yet 
the yolk is left uncooked. To be wholesome, eggs should be cooked 
evenly to the center, and this result is best reached by putting the 
eggs into a dish having a tight cover ( a tin pail will do) and pour- 
ing boiling water over them in the proportion of two quarts to a 
dozen eggs ; cover and set away from the stove ; after cooking about 
seven minutes, remove cover, turn the eggs, replace cover, and in six 
or seven minutes they will be done, if only two or three eggs ; if 
more, in from ten to twenty minutes. The heat of the water cooks the 
eggs slowly to a jelly-like consistency and leaves the yolk harder 
than the white. The egg thus cooked is very nice and rich. Another 
method of cooking is to put the eggs on in cold water and let it grad- 
ually come to a boil, which will bo in about ten minutes, when they 
are immediately taken out and served. The inside, white and yolk, 
will then be of the consistency of custard. Serve in egg stand, or in 
a dish enfolded in a warm napkin, placing an egg glass at each 
plate ; or if well done, shell and halve quickly and serve on hot plate 
with a hot French mustard poured round them, dipping a sp.oonful 
on each. Drop eggs a moment into cold water and they will shell 
more easily. If intended for salad leave them in the colo water for 
some time for the yolks to harden. 




EGGS. 203 

Breaded Eggs. — Boil hard and cut in round thick slices, season 
with pepper and salt and dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine 
bread-crumbs, or powdered cracker crumbs, and fry in fat like 
doughnuts. Drain ofif every drop of grease and serve hot. A nice 
way of serving is to spread triangles of fried bread with anchovy 
paste, lay them in a hot platter and arrange the sliced egg on these ; 
pour over all a cup drawn butter into which a raw egg has been 
stirred. 

Broiled Eggs. — Toast pieces of bread on both sides, butter, and 
break six eggs carefully upon them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
and pass a clean red hot shovel or salamander over them until they 
are well set. Squeeze t e juice of an orange over them, strew with 
a little grated nutmeg and serve as quickly as possible. Dip the 
toast into warmed cream and it is much more delicious. 

Buttered Eggs. — Break four eggs into a bowl and beat well ; put 
two tablespoons butter mto another bowl, which place in boiling 
water and stir till butter melts ; pour that and the eggs into a lined 
saucepan, hold over a gent e fire and as the mixture begins to warm 
pour it two or three times into the bowl and back again, that the 
two ingredients may be we incorporated. Keep stirring the eggs 
and butter one way until they are hot, without hoiAng., and serve on 
hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed to boil it will curdle 
and so be entirely spoiled. 

C rried Eg is. — Slice two onions very thin and fry in butter to 
a nice brown, add a tablespoon curry powder and one pint good 
broth or stock, stew til- onions are quite tender, add a cup cream 
thickened with arrowroot or rice flour, simmer a few moments, then 
add eight or +en hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, and heat them well, 
but do not boil. If a white instead of a brown dish is wished the 
onions must be stewed in butter, and the sauce made of veal broth 
mixed with a little milk and flour. Pepper and salt to taste. Serve 
hot. Or mix two teaspoons curry powder into a paste with a little 
gravy from one and one-half pints, and rub it, adding the rest of 
gravy until it is completely incorporated ; let it then simmer gently 
until it is reduced to little more than a half pint ; thicken it with a 
little flour and butter, boil six eggs hard, cut them into slices, yolk 
and white together, warm up for five minutes, and serve very hot. 
Another excellent recipe : Cut each egg into four slices ; put two 
tablespoons butter or olive oil into a frying-pan, and when well 
heated throw into it a large sliced onion and apple ; fry briskly till 
well browned ; add a cup either milk, cream, water or stock in which 
has been mixed a dessert-spoon strong curry-powder ; simmer about 
ten minutes and thicken with the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange 
the sliced eggs in a hot dish, pour the curry over them, or just stew 
them in it for a few minutes. Some epicures have the yolks only of 



204 EGGS. 

the eggs curried and the whites minced fine to form a garnish. 
Tomatoes, chopped, savory herbs, celery, green peas, sliced cucum- 
bers, button mushrooms, fresh or pickled, orange or lemon juice, 
young capsicums, pickles of any kind, shred lemon rind, shallot or 
garlic in small quantity, or indeed almost any sort of vegetable may 
be employed in the curry. Fillets of anchovies may be used as a 
decoration round the rim of the dish, but observe that only cream 
or jolk of egg should rightly be made use of for thickening a curry. 

Deviled Eqqs. — Take a sufficient number of the hard-boiled 
yolks of eggs, dip them first into some beaten egg, then dip them 
into oil and roll them in cayenne pepper and salt make a little tray by 
twisting up the corners of half a sheet of oiled writing paper, place 
the eggs in it, put it upon a gridiron over a clear fire and shaKe it 
about till the eggs are quite hot. Serve with equal quantities of olive 
oil and chetney sauce made very hot. In default of chetney sauce. 
Chili vinegar may be employed. Or dip the hard-boiled yolks into 
beaten egg well seasoned with pepper and salt, then into bread- 
crumbs, and drop into hot lard until browned over. 

Forcemeat Eggs. — Boil six e^gs hard, and while boiling make a 
forcemeat by mixmgacup minced chicken, veal, ham or tongue with 
a half cup bread-crumbs, two teaspoons mixed parsley, onion, sum- 
mer savory or sweet marjoram chopped fine,- and one raw egg beaten 
light. Take shells of eggs on caremlly. divide in halves, and cut a 
piece of the white ofi* at each end that they may stand firmly when 
dished, and coat them thickly with the forcemeat. Set on upper 
grate of very hot oven to brown, and serve piled neatly on hot dish. 
Pour a cup of hot, rich gravy over them into which a little lemon 
juice has been squeezed, and serve. Or leave eggs whole, cover with 
forcemeat, pUt in a frying-basket and set into boiling fat for two 
minutes. Nice for lunch, tea or picnics. 

French Eggs. — Boil hard, remove shells, roll in beaten egg, then 
in cracker crumbs and fry in butter until brown. Pour over them a 
gravy made in pan of butter, crumbs and cream. An excellent side 
dish for dinner. 

Fricasseed Eggs. — Put a half pound stale bread and a pint milk 
or good meat broth seasoned with pepper and salt in saucepan and 
boil three minutes, mash well and mix and boil until a thin paste is 
made, stirring constantly; mix with this six or eight bard-boiled 
^eggs, cut in slices or dice, seasoned with 
pepper and salt, stir over the fire five minutes 
and serve hot. Or put the broth on the fire 
in saucepan with the seasoning, adding also 
^_^____^ parsley and a suspicion of onion, and let 

Saucepan. comc to a boil. Rub the slices of egg with 

melted butter, then roll them in flour. Lay them gently in the gravy 





EGGS. 205 

and let this become smoking hot upon the side of the range, but do 
not let it actually boil lest the eggs should break. They should lie 
thus in the gravy for at least five minutes. Have ready upon a plat- 
ter small slices of nicely fried bread, lay the sliced eggs evenly 
upon this, pour the gravy over all and serve ho' . 

Fried Eggs. — After frying ham drop the eggs one by one in the 
hot fat and dip it over them until the white is set, or cook from three 
to five minutes, as liked. They may be served alone or on the ham 
dusted over with pepper and salt, or they may be fried in other fat 
and served wiih broiled ham, or on toast sprinkled with catsup or a 
sauce of any kind. Fried eggs may also be served on slices of 
Bologna sausage tossed over the fire in hot butter or salad oil. 
Place an egg on each piece of sausage, arrange among them some 
parsley leaves fried crisp, and serve as hot as possible. French cooks 
pour over fried eggs a hot mixture 
of chopped onions and bread-crumbs, 
a little water and a few drops vinegar 
seasoned with salt. The fried egg 
pan is very nice where it is desired _ 

to retain the shape of the egg. A FnedEggPan. 

nice way of frying eggs is to have as many as are required broken 
in cups or saucers, and heat over the -fire a frying-pan two-thirds 
full of fat until it smokes. Put the eggs into the smoking hot fat 
and fry for two minutes, putting in at once only as many eggs as 
will float ; as soon as they are fried take out of fat with skimmer 
and lay on slices of broiled ham or bacon cooked while the eggs are 
being fried. Serve the dish very hot. 

Holland Eggs. — Cook seven eggs hard and cut in long slices ; 
wash and clean a large herring, cut in small pieces ; take the roe 
from a carp or other fish and fry in butter ; butter a baking dish, put 
in the boiled eggs and pour over them five tablespoons cream ; on 
each egg put a piece of herring and some of the roe, and thus fill up 
the dish with alternate layers ; mix some chopped parsley with a 
little more cream and pour all over the eggs, and bake. 

Italian Eggs. — Beat six eggs, add two ounces grated Gruyere 
cheese, and about half tablespoon butter. Put all together on the 
fire until quite thick, take off and season to taste. A favorite dish 
in Switzerland. 

Nugget Eggs. — Break the shells of a dozen eggs, separate yolks 
from whites and keep each j^olk by itself; beat whites to a froth and 
add a little salt, pepper and thick cream ; pour this into a well but- 
tered deep dish and arrange the yolks upon the top ; put the dish 
into a gentle oven and when set serve them hot. The whites of the 
eggs should have been beaten for at least a quarter of an hour. 



206 EGGS. 

Onion Eggs. — Boil twelve eggs hard and slice ten, whites and 
yolks together ; fry six sliced onions in butter, drain, lay on a dish, 
and put the sliced eggs over them ; cover and keep hot v/hlle this 
sauce is made : Grate yolks of the two remaining eggs and mix with 
little cream, grated nutmeg and pepper, boil up once and pour over 
eggs and onions. Serve very hot. A nice dish for those who like 
onions. 

Pickled Eggs. — Pint strong vinegar, half pint cold water, tea- 
spoon each cinnamon, allspice and mace ; boil eggs till very hard, 
and take off the shell ; put spices, tied in a white muslin bag, in cold 
water, boil, and if water wastes away add enough so as to leave a 
half pint when done ; add vinegar, and pour over eggs, put in as 
many eggs as mixture will cover, and when they are used, the same will 
do for another lot. If liked, ginger and cloves may be used instead 
of the cinnamon and mace, and some add mustard. Or after boiling 
(hard) and removing shell, place in jar of beet pickles and the white 
will become red ; cut in two in serving. Or, for sixteen eggs, take 
one quart vinegar, one-half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pep- 
per and ginger ; boil eggs twelve minutes, dip in cold water and take 
off shell ; put vinegar with pepper and ginger into a saucepan and 
simmer ten minutes; place eggs in a jar, pour over the seasoned 
vinegar boiling hot, and when cold cover closely to exclude the air ; 
ready for use in a month. 

Plovers'' Eggs. — Boil from ten to fifteen minutes, and they are 
good either hot or cold. Serve in napkin. Esteemed a great deli- 
cacy. 

Poached Eggs. — Break the eggs into the egg poacher or drop 
one at a time in salted water, to which a small lump of butter may 
be added, or a little lemon juice, or vinegar, using a teaspoon to a 
pint water ; some say drop in Avhen simmering, others when boiling, 
not letting it boil again after putting in the eggs ; others have water 
boiling, salt, then place it where it will stop boiling, drop in eggs, 
and let simmer gently till done. It is even said they will be more 
tender if put on in cold water and left until the water comes to a 
boil. Always take great care in keeping the yolk whole. ^ Use an 
egg poacher if possible. Break the egg carefully into the little cups 
and place them on the stand. Dip the stand into well-salted water, 
which has been brought to simmering point. When done each cup 
in shape of a shell is taken off the stand and carefully tipped over a 
piece of buttered toast, leaving the egg in the pretty form of the cup. 
If one has not a poacher, muffin rings may be placed in the water, 
or the cup in which the egg is broken may be turned over it, after 
it is dropped in the water ; and some cook the eggs in cups set in 



EQGS. 



207 




the hot water ; others stir with a spoon and drop in the^ddy thus 
made, stirring till egg is cooked. The yolk 
should only be just so much done as to fix it- 
self firmly in the center of the white ; if the 
yolk is allowed to harden the egg is quite 
spoiled ; if the yolks are liked whitened or 
filmed over, cover the pan in which the eggs j,gg Poacher. 

are poached, or dip the hot water on them with a spoon, as the fat 
is dipped over fried eggs. Take up with a perforated skimmer, when 
not cooked in egg poacher or cups. To serve them, toast squares 
of bread three-quarters of an inch thick, moisten with a little water, 
put a very little melted butter upon each slice, place on a heated 
platter, lay an egg on each square, sprinkle with pepper and salt, 
and if liked, a few drops vinegar or essence of anchovy. Or drain 
nicely and serve in individual dishes alone or over broiled ham or 
boiled spinach. Some put a bit of butter on each egg. Serve with 
Worcester sauce if desired ; or pour hot cream over them, seasoned 
with butter, pepper and salt. Some poach eggs in milk, serving 
them in sauce dishes with some of the milk, and season- 
ing with pepper and salt. For Egg Vol Au Vents, fry rounds of 
bread from Avhich an inner round has been cut, but not quite 
through, trim the poached eggs to fit the cavities thus made, and 
pour over them a cup of hot gravy or chicken broth. A very hand- 
some dish is made by trimming and serving poached eggs around 
slices of fried beets, squeezing a little lemon juice over. For Poached 
Eggs with Mushrooms, mince some cold chicken and stir over 
the fire with a beaten egg and pepper and salt, place this first in the 
rounds of bread, and on top of this the poached eggs, carefully 
trimmed, then pour over them some sliced mushrooms that have 
been cooked in highly seasoned veal or poultry gravy. Spanish 
Eggs are poached eggs served on boiled rice, flavored with cinnamon, 
and seasoned with a little butter and salt. 

Ringed Eggs. — Roughly chop yolks of half-dozen hard-boiled 
eggs ; cut whites into rings ; put yolks into middle of dish, with 
whites round them ; lightly sifl some bread-crumbs over, sprinkle 
essence of anchovy upon the top and add a dessert-spoon salad oil 
and a little red pepper, place in an oven for five minutes and 
serve. 

Scalloped ^^s.— Moisten bread-crumbs with milk or meat broth 
and season with salt and pepper ; place a layer of this in a well-buttered 
dish ; slice some hard-boiled eggs, and dip each slice in a thick drawn- 
butter sauce to which a well-beaten egg has been added ; put a layer 
of them upon the crumbs, then a slight layer of minced ham, veal or 
chicken, then bread, etc., finishing with dry. sifted bread-crumbs ; 




208 EGGS. 

bake until well heated ; or, put upon the layer of bread-crumbs a 
layer of minced ham, seasoned with onion and parsley ; set in oven, 
closely covered, until smoking hot. Have four eggs stiffly beaten, 
season with pepper and salt, add two tablespoons cream or one of 
melted butter, and pour this evenly upon the layer of ham. Put 
the dish back into the oven uncovered and bake until the egg is set. 
Individual Scallops are made of lightly minced hard-boiled 
eggs, whites and yolks together, or yolks only. Butter 
scallop shells, or little tins made to resemble them in 
^^^^ shape, strew in a portion of the egg, then sprinkle 
s7aii1^ some seasoned grated toast over the egg, and so on al- 
ternately until shells are filled ; sprinkle a little Chili vinegar on top, 
lay a piece of butter upon each, and place them in oven until 
sufficiently done. Grated Parmesan cheese, essence of shrimps or 
anchovies, chetney sauce, catsup, or truffles, may be added to give 
them the flavor liked. 

Scrambled Eggs. — Warm sweet milk in a deep earthen pie 
plate, allowing two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a large 
number of eggs), add a bit of butter size of walnut, or omit the but- 
ter and use cream in above proportion or only half as much, and a 
little salt and pepper. When nearly to boiling point drop in the 
eggs, broken one at a time in a saucer ; with a spoon or thin-bladed 
knife gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from the bot- 
tom of the plate as it cooks. If it begins to cook dry and fast at 
the bottom, move the dish back instantly, shifting it over the heat 
as needed, or even raising it, if cooking too fast, for success depends 
wholly on cooking gently and evenly, proportions being of second- 
ary importance. Take from stove before it has quite all thickened, 
and continue turning it up from bottom of dish a moment longer. 
If served in another dish (it keeps warmer served in same) have it 
well heated. The mixture should be in large flakes of mingled white 
and yellow, and as delicate as baked custard. Or for plain scrambled 
eggs omit the milk ; some beat eggs before scrambling, just enough 
to mix whites and yolks, and minced ham is sometimes added. 
Scrambled upon a plate that has been heated very, very hot and 
rubbed with a bit of butter, they 8.re relished by those who like eggs 
but little cooked. Serve scrambled eggs hot over slices of moist 
buttered toast, or fried bread spread with anchovy paste, if liked, 
and Ihe dish is called Mtcmhled Eggs. Or beat up the eggs with 
pepper, salt and a little chopped thyme ; rub the sauce-pan or bak- 
ing dish Avith onions before putting in the eggs, cook as above and 
send to table as Savory Eggs. A great variety of dishes may be made 
bv adding to the beaten eggs (with two tablespoons milk to each egg 
if liked), any of the following : For savory dishes — chopped tongue, 
oysters, shrimps or prawns, preserved sardines, dried salmon, ancho- 
vies, herbs, truffles, pickles, potted meats, sausages, shred lemon-peel, 



EGGS. 209 

onions, artichokes, shallots, asparagus tops, green peas, beets, mush- 
rooms, cheese, bacon, lobster spawn, dried beef cut fine, cold meat, 
rice, croutons, cold macaroni, or any cold vegetables ; for sweet mixed 
eggs the following may be employed : blanched almonds, angelica, 
blanched chestnuts, conserves of any kind, stoned raisins, candied 
orange, citron, or lemon peel, blackberries and other fresh fruits, etc. 

Shirred Eggs. — Place small earthen dishes, each large enough 
to hold an egg, in a dripping-pan with a little hot water ; put in each 
a bit of butter and a raw egg, taking care not to break the yolk, dust 
a little salt and pepper over them, set in hot oven and just harden 
the whites ; serve one dish to each person, sending to table set upon 
pretty plates. If liked each egg may be sprinkled with bread-crumbs 
and browned with hot salamander before sending to table. Two 
eggs are often served in each dish, and a nice flavor is given by 
sprinkling a little finely chopped ham and parsley in the dishes be- 
fore putting in the eggs. Any small saucers will do for this purpose, 
though the little scalloped shells are much prettier. Some prefer 
to beat the eggs before baking. 

Shredded Eggs. — Boil six eggs hard and cut the whites in thin 
strips or shreds ; make a pint of white sauce, and toast six slices 
of bread ; put a layer of sauce on each, then part of the white shreds, 
and rub part of the yolks through a sieve over all ; repeat this and 
finish with a third layer of sauce. Place in the oven about three 
minutes ; garnish with parsley, and serve. It is said that when hard- 
boiled eggs are wanted for this or any other purpose, boiling them 
an hour or more renders them as easily digested as soft-boiled eggs. 

StuiFed Eggs. — Boil one dozen fresn eggs untu well done, poar 
otf hot water and cover with cold ; then peel and cut the eggs in 
halves, either lengthwise or crosswise, take out the yolks and mash 
them with a piece of butter size of an egg, one cup finely minced 
boiled ham, and a dressing of one teaspoon each black pepper and 
salt, a dessert-spoon each mustard and celery seed, tablespoon sugar, 
and three tablespoons vinegar. Mix all well together and fill the halved 
whites with the mixture, press them together and serve on a glass 
dish garnished with fresh ten- ^.^^^^g^ ^^^^^'i^'-'^^-^-^^ ^aig^^ 

serve their form. Spread the ^''''''===s:as b-^---^i.>-..=:--g=^ ^^^ ft===^ 

mixture left over between thin "si^^rEggir' 

slices of buttered bread, and very nice Salad Sandwiches result ; 
or put the dressing left over on a plate, place the halved eggs on 
it ends downward and set in the oven to brown befere serving. 
14 



210 



EGGS. 



Another nice dish is Creamed Eggs., made as follows : Prepare 
eggs as above and mash the yolks well with a little butter, onion 
juice and salt, fill the halved Avhites with this, rounding up, and 
place in a baking dish ; make a rich cream gravy of milk, cream and 
butter, seasoned with white pepper, salt and a small pinch sugar, 
and pour into the dish, leaving a narrow rim of the whites and the 
yolks of eggs showing above; sprinkle grated cheese on the gravy, 
and put in the oven to brown. Serve in baking dish. Delicious. 

Eggs a la Maitre d' Hotel. — Cut five hard-boiled eggs in quar- 
ters, lengthwise, and place in dish ; pour over them a hot gravy 
made of cream and milk with a little butter, a seasoning of white 
pepper and salt, a small pinch sugar, and a thickening of flour. 
Serve hot. A tablespoon chopped parsley and juice of half a lemon 
may be added to gravy if liked. Very nice. 

Egg Balls. — Pound the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs in a 
mortar and moisten with beaten yolks of three raw eggs, little salt, 
pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg. Make into round balls, 
and put through soup about two minutes before serving, or poach 
them and serve on buttered toast or Avith any sauce preferred. Some 
add a little flour to the paste before making into balls. 

Egg Charlotte. — Cut thin slices of stale bread divested of crust, 
dip into warmed butter, and line a small mold ; take enough hard- 
boiled yolks of eggs for the mold ; chop and add to them half their 
-quantity of bread-crumbs soaked in cream, season with pepper, add 
a couple of shred shallots and place these ingredients in the mold; 
beat up a raw egg with a tablespoon cream and add ; lay upon the 
top some thin slices of bread dipped into liquid^ butter and put it 
into a tolerably hot oven to get nicely browned ; turn it out into a 
dish to serve. For a Sweet Charlotte, sugar, orange-flower or rose- 
water, and a few blanched almonds, some shred lemon-peel, etc., 
should be employed instead of the shallot and savory seasoning. 

Egg Fritters. — Cut hard-boiled eggs in tAvo, remove yolks, 
and mix with them chopped cold chicken, lamb, veal or sardines, 
a little minced onion or parsley and a few soaked bread-crumbs ; 
season, and moisten with gravy or the uncooked yolk of an egg or 
cream, fill in the cavities level, put the two halves together, roll in 
beaten egg and bread-crumbs, put in wire egg-basket, and dip in 
boiling lard; when slightly brown, serve with celery, tomato sauce, 
or make a sauce from lemon juice, sardines, parsley, and sliced 
onion, stewed in vegetable broth, and a good spoonful cream ; let 
all cook together and when well reduced pour over the dished eggs 
and serve hot ; or for six eggs make a stufiSng of the yolks, two tea- 
spoons butter, one of cream, two or throe drops onion juice and salt 
and pepper to taste. Fill eggs and fry as above. 




EGGS. 211 

Ejfff Terrace. — Boil now-laid eggs ten minutcH,Bh(-;ll, cut in two. 
and take a Hmall slice off the ends, so they will stand. Take out 

yolks and heat in a mortar, after hav- 
ing passed thoni through a hair sieve, 
isj^ togr;thor with an equal quantity of hut- 
t(;r, a little salt, pey)por, nutmeg, two 

niw eggs, and a largo tablespoon ehop- 

1:,,^ T-rru.- ped parsley. Mix very thorouglily, and 

put in a dish. Fill the eggs with this mixture. Make some good 
highly flavored forf:(;iiieat (see Meats), and smooth a layer (jf it on 
a plat(;, plaee the filled eggs round it, put a second layer of the force- 
meat in the centre, and arrange the otlier eggs upon it; l^asto 
gently with hutt(;r, and set for a few minutes in tlie oven to heat 
through and color the eggs. Instead of forcemeat, the stuffing may 
be used for the layers. Herve with tomato sauce. This dish may 
be served as an entree, or for breakfast, luncheon or supjjer. 

Egg8 vntli Cheese. — Cut hard-boiled eggs into slices ; lay them 
in a buttered dish that has l^een sprinkled over with bread-crumbs ; 
upon each piece of egg lay a slice of Ciruyere cheese corresponding 
in size ; place a good bit of butter upon each ; pepper well, sift u few 
bread-crumbs over, and put in oven lor about five minutes. Serve 
hot. 

Ef/gs vnth Mu.'ihroom,s. — 81ice, fry, and drain twelve button 
mushrooms and two onions ; boil six eggs hard, and slice them, 
whites and yolks separately, add a ta})lespoon butter and seasoning 
of pepper and salt, and simmer tlie whole in a half pint good gravy. 
Put in the sliced yolks last, find let them remain a minute only. 
Serve very hot, and garnish with thin rings of some of the white; of 
the eggs. Or cut two mushrooms into dice and fry for one minute 
in a tablespoon fjutter ; l>eat six eggs, a little salt, pepper and a half 
eup milk or cream together and put in sauce-pan ; ,'t,dd tlie mush- 
rooms and three tablespoons butter and stir until it begins to thick- 
en ; tak(! from fire and oeat rapidly until quite thick and creamy. 
Pour over slices of hot toast, garnish with points of toast and serve 
immediately. 

Egfjs vnth Pean. — Put a pint of fresh, tender green peas into a 
covereri vegetable dish ; add four tablespoons each olive oil and 
water, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, cover closely and place 
the dish over boiling water until the peas are done ; then make 
indentations on their surface with a spoon and into each of these 
break an egg; beat an egg and pour upon the top; and when well 
set, serve it in the dish in which it was dressed. Or boil in salt 
water, half pint tender green peas ; drain, and when cold, mix with 
the yolks oi eight eggs, and whites of four, strained and seasoned. 
Heat some butter in a frying-pan and put in eggs and peas. Keep 



212 EGGS. 

stirring with a spoon till eggs are set ; turn into a dish, and serve 
with mint sauce. Any cold peas can be used. 

Eggs with Syrup. — Make a syrup with a little more than a 
half pint water and two tablespoons sugar, boiling with it some 
thickly-sliced lemon peel ; strain through a sieve and when cold add 
to it yolks of eight eggs and whites of two ; mix well and flavor with 
orange flower water ; pour into deep dish and either put it in oven 
or place over boiling water until firm. 

Eggs with Tomatoes. — Peel a dozen tomatoes, medium size, 
cut up in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper and salt ; when 
sufficiently boiled, beat five or six eggs, and just before serving turn 
them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and stir one way for two 
minutes, or until they are well done. 

Eggs with Vinegar. — Heat some butter in a frying-pan until of 
a good dark-brown color ; break six or eight eggs into a dish ; season 
any flavor desired, and slide gently into frying-pan. When done, 
turn carefully into a dish ; put a good tablespoon strong vinegar 
into the frying-pan, bring it quickly to a boil, pour upon the eggs, 
and serve hot as possible. 

Hen's Nest. — Boil six or eight eggs hard and cut whites from 
yolks in long thin strips, or shavings, set aside to warm in very 
"gentle oven, buttering them now and then while preparing the rest- 
Pound a cup minced meat or fish very fine in a 
mortar, mixing in gradually the yolks of eggs, a 
^ B teaspoon parsley and pepper and salt to taste. 

Hen's Nest. Wlicu all are reduced to a smooth paste, mold 

with the hands into small, egg-shaped balls. Place in the center of 
a dish, arrange the shred eggs around them, in imitation of a nest, 
and send to table with small rounds of fried bread. A cup hot drawn 
butter sauce poured round the nest is an appetizing addition. 

Ox-Eyes. — Take slices, an inch thick, from good light bread or 
roll, and cut into circles with a paste-cutter three inches in diameter ; 
with a smaller cutter one and one-half inches in diameter cut out the 
middle of each circle or cake, leaving the ring intact. Fry the rings 
in butter, a bright yellow color ; butter a dish well, lay the rings in, 
and pour over them enough sour cream to moisten well, and put, 
very carefully, a raw egg into each ring. Dredge with a little salt, 
and put a very little sweet cream on top of each egg. Set in oven, 
and if pretty hot cover lightly with paper. When set, the yolks 
being soft, they are ready to serve. Send to table garnished with 
parsley or water-cresses. 

Temperance Egg-Nog. —'^esi well the yolks of two fresh eggs, 
add two tablespoons each powdered loaf sugar, and orange flower 




OMELETS. 213 



water. Stir quickly, and add a cup boiling water. Drink as hot as 
possible. 

Bread Omelet. — Boil one cup milk or cream and pour over 
one cup bread crumbs and let stand a few minutes, pressing through 
a sieve if Avished. Beat lightly the yolks of six eggs in a bowl, add 
milk and bread, season with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites 
and pour into hot pan prepared with a tablespoon butter ; finish as 
in Plain Omelette. Some add a little grated nutmeg and also cut 
in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown, and serve. Or add one 
tablespoon flour, one onion chopped fine, half pint chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt ; finish as above and serve as a French Omelette; 
or omit milk and flour and use only half cup bread crumbs and add 
three tablespoons soft butter and two of grated cold ham and a 
Savory Omelette will result. Less eggs may be used in any of the 
recipes. 

Cheese Omelet. — Boil in pint new milk until dissolved a half 
pound good rich cheese, sliced thin. Stir in four eggs beaten very 
light. Toast some bread, butter evenly, putting on a little mustard, 
keep stirring the omelet and add a little salt; when thickened, which 
will be in five minutes, if fire is good, pour the omelet over the 
dished toast and serve very hot. 

Corn Omelet. — Beat three eggs lightly, separately if wished 
extra nice, add third cup milk, three-quarters pint sliced cold boiled 
corn, three tablespoons butter, season and finish as Plain Omelet. 

Cream Omelet. — Beat together yolks of three eggs, one and a 
half tablespoons corn starch and teaspoon salt. To this add half 
cup milk and well-frothed whites. Have the omelet pan with a 
close fitting cover, hot, put in tablespoon butter, when it bubbles 
pour in omelet, cover and place where it will not burn. Cook eight 
minutes, fold and turn on a hot dish, pour around it a cream sauce 
and serve at once. 

Meat or Fish Omelet. — Take cold meat, ham or tongue, fish, 
game, or poultry of any kind ; remove all skin, sinew, etc., and either 
cut in small pieces or pound to a paste in a mortar, with seasoning 
to taste of spices and salt ; then fry in a buttered frying-pan till it 
begins to brown, and pour the beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up 
with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set 
in the pan. In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce, but 
garnished with fried parsley, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right 
proportion is one tablespoonful of chopped meat to four eggs. A 
little milk, gravy, or water may be added to the eggs while being 
beaten. Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. 
For Mixed Qinelet equal portions of cold chicken or turkey may be 



214 OMELETS. 



used with ham or tongue, seasoning if liked with a little chopped. 
onion, pepper and sweet herbs. Put in the pan with a ladle and fry 
in fiat cakes. 

Milk Omelet. — To lightly beaten yolks of three eggs add three 
tablespoons milk, or more if wished, and stir in lightly the well 
beaten whites ; cook as in first recipe, or bake in oven as described in 
general directions and serve as a Baked Omelet, adding salt just be- 
fore placing on dish. 

Mushroom Omelet. — Lightly fry some picMed button mush- 
rooms in either fresh butter or oil. When fresh button mushrooms 
can be obtained, they should be cleaned and dipped into lemon-juice, 
and afterwards either lightly fried in butter, and the eggs poured 
over them ; or simply, without being fried, laid upon the eggs when 
poured into the pan ; add a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, and 
serve when sufficiently done. 

Olive Omelet. — Stone and halve a tablespoon Italian olives; 
add them to the yolks of seven and the whites of five eggs, beaten 
up with the juice of an orange. Heat some olive-oil in a frying-pan, 
pour in the omelet, and directly it is well set, double it up, and serve 
it upon a napkin folded in a dish. 

Orange Omelet. — Three eggs, teaspoon each orange juice and 
grated rind of orange ; beat yolks and whites separately, then mix 
them carefully together and put in a buttered, heated frying pan. If 
liked, strew fresh sugar over it and glaze with salamander. Make 
Lemon Omelet same way. 

Oyster Omelet. — Cook fifteen oysters rare done in little sauce- 
pan separately, with a tablespoon milk, scrap of butter and thicken- 
ing to make white sauce of the liquor ; break the four eggs in a bowl, 
put in a tablespoon milk and beat with the wire egg whisk ; add a 
pinch of salt. Shake a tablespoon melted lard about in the large 
omelet frying pan and before it gets very hot pour in the omelet and 
let it cook rather slowly. When nearly done in the center place the 
oysters with a spoon in the hollow middle and pull over the further 
edge to cover them in ; slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- 
nish with parsley and lemon. 

Plain Omelet. — Put the yolks of three or four eggs into a bowl 
and beat lightly; add one tablespoon butter broken into small 
pieces ; this makes a much lighter omelet and should always be 
added ; now gently stir in the well frothed whites and a little pepper. 
Have the hot omelet pan prepared with one tablespoon butter and 



OMELETS, 215 



as soon as it bubbles, stir the omelet once or twice and pour it in ; 
lift it with a large two-pronged fork (a carving 
fork will do), carefully raising the edges with 
the fork as fast as they cook, and turn them to- 
ward the center until the omelet lies in the mid- 
dle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or ^'""^'• 
hard to suit the taste ; the inside must alwa^^s be creamy. When 
the omelet is done to the degree desired, add salt, turn upon a hot 
dish without touching it with either fork or spoon, and serve at once. 
Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, Avithout separating 
the whites and yolks, with a little salt and pepper, and put them in- 
to a frying pan containing an ounce of butter, browned ; let the 
omelet stand for a moment, and then turn the edges up gently with 
a fork, and shake the pan to prevent its burning or sticking at the 
bottom. Five minutes will fry it a delicate brown, fold over and 
serve on a very hot dish ; never cook an omelet until it is just want- 
ed ; the flavor may be very much enhanced by adding minced pars- 
ley, minced onions or shallot, or grated cheese, allowing a level 
tablespoon of former, and half the quantity of latter, to the above 
proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added ; the lat- 
ter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut into 
small pieces. Be careful not to have omelet greasy, burnt, or too 
much done, and cook over a gentle fire, that the whole of the sub- 
stance may be heated -wdthout drying up the outside. They are some- 
times served Avith gravy ; but this should never he poured over them, 
but served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become 
heavy and flat, instead of light and soft. In making the gravy, the 
flavor should be delicate, and arrowroot or rice flour should be used 
for thickening. For Cheese Omelet make a plain omelet as above, 
and as soon as it begins to thicken sprinkle in three tablespoons 
grated cheese, A very nice Chicken Omelet is made by adding to 
the plain omelet just before folding a cup of cooked chicken chopped 
fine and and warmed in cream sauce. 

Potato Omelet. — Boil two tablespoons potato flour in three- 
fourths pint milk for half an hour, with sugar to taste, and flavor if 
desired. Beat separately the whites and yolks of five eggs, stir 
through the milk, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven. Or take 
two mealy potatoes, mash well with enough cream to pass them 
through a sieve and add a little Avhite pepper and salt (or sugar, if 
for a sweet omelet) ; beat six new-laid eggs, put with the potatoes ; 
butter a frying-pan and heat well ; pour in the omelet, and as soon 
as it sets turn over the ends and serve hot. With a sweet omelet, a 
little cinnamon or grated lemon neel, ginger or nutmeg, may be em- 
ployed, 

Puif Omelet. — Stir into the yolks of six eggs and whites of 
three beaten very light, one tablespoon flour mixed with a cup cream 



216 OMELETS. 



or milk, and salt and pepper to taste ; melt a tablespoon butter in 
a pan, pour in the mixture and set the pan into a hot oven ; when it 
thickens, pour over it the remaining whites of eggs well beaten, re- 
turn it to the oven and let it bake a delicate brown. Slip off on 
large plate, and eat as soon as done. 

Sweet Omelet. — (Baked). Mix yolks of four eggs with four 
heaping teaspoons powdered sugar ; add teaspoon vanilla and care- 
fully cut into this the well-frothed whites ; pour it on a thick metal 
dish well buttered and bake till brown, about ten minutes. Place 
dish on a hot platter and serve at once. If liked, dust with sugar 
just before placing in oven, and the chopped rind of half a lemon 
may be added. This may be baked in an iron frying-pan and 
slipped carefully upon the hot platter. 

Sweet Omelet. — (Fried). Mix with the beaten yolks of seven 
eggs two teaspoons powdered loaf-sugar, the grated rind of half a 
lemon, and a little cream ; add the beaten whites, whip up all together 
and fry quickly so as not to scorch it ; when set, turn in the ends, 
sift pounded loaf sugar upon it, and glaze with a red-hot salamander 
or shovel ; or use sugar with any plain omelet recipe instead of pep- 
per and salt. For a Fruit Omelet enclose in the center any kind of 
jelly, marmalade or jam — currant or grape jelly is best. To make a 
Chocolate Om^elet, put over the eggs when slightly firm a tablespoon 
scraped chocolate mixed to a paste with two eggs ; fold as soon as 
set, sprinkle powdered sugar or cinnamon over and serve. 

Vegetable Omelet. — Make a puree by mashing up ready-dressed 
vegetables together with a little milk, cream or gravy, and some 
seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are cucumbers, artichokes, 
onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrobms, asparagus 
tops, potatoes, truffles, or turnips. Prepare some eggs by slightly 
beating and straining them ; pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, 
well-buttered ; spread the puree in the center, and when perfectly 
hot, fold and serve. Or, cold vegetables may be merely chopped 
small, then fried in a little butter, and some beaten and seasoned 
eggs poured over. 

Water Omelet. — Break eggs in a bowl, stir rather than beat, and 
to each three eggs add a teaspoon or so cold water, salt and pepper 
to taste, (or salt after cooking) and a little scalded and chopped 
parsley. Put tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, pour in eggs, 
cook as above in first recipe and serve. The water makes the ome- 
let light and moist. 



FISH. 217 



FISH. 



As a food, fish ranks just below meat on the one hand and above 
vegetables on the other. It is easier of digestion but less nutritious 
than meats, if salmon is excepted, which is extremely hearty food, 
and should be eaten sparingly by children and those whose diges- 
tion is not strong. But, though it is not recommended that fish 
should be the only animal food of which one partakes, its value as a 
part of the diet is indicated by the larger proportion of phosphorus 
which it contains, and which renders it especially fitted for the use 
of those who perform much brain work. There can be no doubt that 
fish might with advantage enter much more largely into our family 
diet than it does at present, as it would not only afford a pleasant 
variety in fare, but would also supply certain elements of blood 
which are not obtained in sufficient quantity from either meat or 
vegetables. On the score of economy, too, fish should receive more 
attention from the housekeeper. The white kinds are least nutri- 
tious ; and the oily, such as salmon, eels, herrings, etc., most diffi- 
cult of digestion. Fish must be fresh, the fresher the better — those 
being most perfect which go straight from their native element into 
the hands of the cook — and they may be known to be perfectly fresh 
when the form is rigid and the eyes full and bright. If fish is kept 
on ice until used it will retain much of its freshness, but if not kept 
cool it will lose the delicate flavor, which nothing can bring back. 
The season of the year has a most decided influence upon the qual- 
ity offish. In general, fish are in the best condition just before they 
spawn, but as soon as the spawning is over they are unfit for food, 
being sometimes positively unwholesome. This circumstance is of 



218 FISH. 

such importance that it has been made a subject of legislative action, 
regulating the times during which only certain fish may be caught. 
When fish are in season, the muscles are firm and they boil white 
and curdy ; when transparent and bluish, though sufficiently boiled, 
it is a sign that they are not in season or not fresh. For further 
hints on selecting fish see Marketing. 

Salmon, mackerel, herring and trout, and all fresh water fish, 
soon spoil and should be prepared for table as soon as possible after 
they are caught. Clean them on a dry table, not in a pan of water, 
using as little water as is compatible with cleanliness. Remove all 
scales (if hard to scrape ofi" these may be loosened by plunging the 
fish into boiling water, but it must be taken out instantly or it will 
break the skin and spoil the fish), and scrape out entrails, every par- 
ticle of blood, and the white skin that lies along the backbone, being 
careful not to crush the fish more than is absolutely necessary in 
cleaning. When a large fish for boiling or baking is not to be 
stuffed, do not split open but draw it at the gills. Rinse thor- 
oughly in cold water, using only what is necessary for perfect clean- 
liness, drain, wipe dry, and place on ice until ready to cook. If to 
be cut up before cooking wash while whole, else much of the flavor 
will be lost. It is a common error to wash fish too much, as by 
doing so the flavor is also injured. If the fish is to be boiled, a lit- 
tle salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, 
after it is cleaned. Fresh cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none 
the worse for being a little salted and kept a day, but even better ; 
and if the weather is not very hot, they will be good for two days. 
To remove the earthy taste from fresh-water fish, sprinkle with salt, 
and let stand overnight, or at least a few hours, before cooking ; 
rinse ofl", wipe dry, and to completely absorb all the moisture, place 
in a folded napkin a short time. Fresh-water fish should never be 
soaked in water except when frozen, when they may be placed in 
ice-cold water to thaw, and then cooked immediately. Salt fish may 
be soaked overnight in cold water, changing water once or twice if 
very salt. To freshen fish, always place it skin-side up, so that the 
salt may have free course to the bottom of pan, where it naturally 
settles. When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is 
purchased than is immediately wanted, the surplus should be potted, 
or pickled, or salted and hung up ; or it may be fried, that it may 
serve for stewing the next day. All cold fish left from any mode of 



PISH. 219 

cooking may be used in making salads, croquettes, etc. If a portion 
of a salmon is not used, parboil and set it aside in the liquor, boil- 
ing up when wanted. It is said that fish may be preserved by 
sprinkling with sugar, which does not harm its flavor, and that sal- 
mon thus treated has a more agreeable taste. Those who live re- 
mote from the sea and cannot get fish hard and fresh should wet it 
with a beaten egg before mealing or breading to prevent its breaking. 
All fish which have been packed in ice should be cooked immediately 
after removal, as they soon grow soft and lose their flavor. 

To bone and skin a fish, cut down the middle till bone is reached, 
then cut the fillet or strip out from the side, ^pr—ni ^^^^^^&i 
avoiding the bone ; lay fillet on board, remove Boning Knife. 

from skin by turning the blade of knife between the flesh and skin 
and keeping it perfectly parallel with the board and thus cutting 
and separating the skin and flesh. To simply bone a fish, remove 
back bone by running a thin sharp knife along under it, and with a 
smaller knife loosen and take out the long bones one at a time. 

Fish should always be well cooked, being both unpalatable and 
unwholesome when underdone, and the mode of cooking con- 
siderably afiects their properties as food. Plain boiling, baking, 
broiling and roasting appear to be the favorite methods. Nearly all 
the larger fresh fish are boiled, the medium-sized are baked or broiled 
and the small are fried. For boiling, a fish weighing from four to 
seven pounds, should be chosen ; for baking, from four to nine 
pounds, though the best size is six or seven ; if wanted for broiling 
select those weighing about three pounds and a half and split in 
two ; for frying, a pound to a pound and a half weight is best. The 
very large ones are cut up and sold in pieces of convenient size. 
The method of cooking which retains most nourishment is broiling, 
baking is next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is better 
than boiling. In baking or boiling place a fish as nearly as possible 
in the same position it occupies in the water. To retain it there, 
shape like the letter "S," pass a long skewer through the head, body, 
and tail, or tie a cord around tail, pass it through body, and tie 
around the head. Or it may be formed in circle with tail in its 
mouth. Lake Superior trout and white-fish are the best for baking, 
and white-fish is also nice for broiling. The gudgeon is a cheap 
fish, rather bony, and is generally fried. The blue-fish is excellent 
boiled or baked with a stufiing of bread, butter and onions. Green 



220 FISH. 

or sea-bass are boiled with egg sauce, and garnished Avith parsley. 
Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked by dropping 
into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, which requires most cooking of 
all fish, is always stuffed and baked. The cod is undoubtedly the 
best fish for all purposes that comes to eastern markets, and are 
packed in ice and sent over the country, but because so plentiful and 
cheap and always to be had are not so much appreciated as other 
fish not so easily obtained. While all delicate fish lose flavor soon 
after they are caught, the cod not only retains but improves in 
flavor if kept a day or two, with the addition of a little salt to give 
it firmness. The "shoulder" is most highly esteemed. As food for 
invalids, white-fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock, coal fish and 
whiting, are the best, while flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot and 
flounder, are also good. In garnishing fish great nicety is required. 
The principal garnishes used are slices or quarters of lemon, fried 
or raw parsley, fresh fennel, pickles, scraped horse-radish, small 
pieces of toast, the liver of the fish, lobster coral, tomatoes quartered, 
sliced cucumber, sliced orange, fried oysters, fried gudgeons or 
smelts, etc. The latter when served as a garnish for a large fish 
should be fried in the shape of rings. This is easily done by putting 
tail of fish in its mouth, and holding it with a wooden tooth-pick. 
After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as the fried fish will hold its 
shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an additional gar- 
nish of parsley and lemon slices ; or the rings may be served alone 
in a circle around the side of a platter, with a tomato or a tartare 
sauce in the center. If Fried Parsley be used it must be washed, 
and picked and thrown into fresh water ; then when the lard or drip- 
ping boils throw in the parsley right from the water and instantly 
it will be green and crisp and must be taken up at once. Fish with 
very good sauce is more appreciated than almost any other 
dish. Tke liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the 
dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving ; 
but to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and gar- 
nishing. One of the most essential things in serving fish is to have 
everything hot, and quickly dished, so that all may go to the table 
at once. Serve fresh fish with squash and green peas, salt fish with 
beets and carrots, salt pork and potatoes and parsnips with either. 
If a fish is to be served whole do not cut off the head and tail. It 
also presents a better appearance to stand the fish on its belly rather 



FISH, 221 

than lay it on its side. Always serve fish, if possible, with its appro- 
priate sauce, which is an almost marvelous improvement to some 
kinds, reminding one of the old gentleman who used to remark that 
"the egg sauce was the best of the fish," 

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or they lose their 
sweetness ; cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape 
them free from every string, rubbing them Avith salt, or dipping into 
hot water to remove the slime adhering to them. They are good 
except in the hottest summer months, the fat ones being best. 

In cooking fish, care must be taken not to use the same knives 
or spoons in the preparation of it and other food, or the latter will 
be tainted with the fishy flavor, and it is well to have special uten- 
sils for preparing and cooking fish, and used only for that purpose. 

The amateur cook should not be affrighted at the number, 
names and length of recipes given under this (or any other) head, 
but undertake any of them without fear of failure. The mode of 
preparing is in most cases really simple, and the directions so plain 
that success is sure. Instead of serving fish boiled or fried in the 
same old way, try some of the newer and more attractive and ap- 
petizing methods under baking, frying, boiling, etc., as court ait 
houillon, which is merely boiling the fish in a vegetable broth fla- 
vored with certain herbs and spices. The collared, curried and potted 
fish will be found very delicious changes, and are easily prepared. 
Some additions may be needed to the stock of spices and herbs before 
beginning, but once used they will be considered as indispensable as 
pepper and salt and be thereafter kept on hand with as little trouble, 
and at very small expense. The French owe their fame as cooks 
largely to their skill in combining ingredients, flavors and season- 
ings, and their artistic methods of serving, producing from bits of 
cold fish, meat, or vegetables and stale crusts, with the addition of 
condiments, dishes both handsome and delicious. Go thou and do 
likewise. 

In buying fish there is opportunity for the exercise of great care 
and judgment, even more than in buying meats, as freshness is 
essential to delicacy in fish. The sooner it is cooked after leaving 
the water the pleasanter the flavor. For particular directions in 
selecting, consult the chapter on maTketing. 



9.22 



FISH. 



The fish to be had in the markets of all the larger cities are 
enumerated below ; the fresh-water during Spring and Fall, and salt- 
water through the Winter also. 

FEESH-WATER FISH. SALT-WATEB FISH. 



Black Bass, 

Croppies, 

Herring, 

Ring Perch, 

Pickerel, 

Blue Pike, 

Wall-eyed Pike, 

Brook Trout, 

Lake or Mackinaw Trout, 

Siskiwit, 

Sturgeon, 

White Fish. 



Sea or Green Bass, 

Blue-Fish, 

Cod, 

Flounders, 

Haddock, 

Halibut, 

Salt-water Herring, 

Mackerel, 

Spanish Mackerel, 

Pompano, 

Kennebec Salmon, 

California or Oregon Salmon, 

Sheeps-head, 

Red Snappers, 

Smelts. 



Baked Fish. — After the fish has been properly cleaned and 
rinsed, wipe dry with a cloth and rub well inside with %alt and pep- 
per. When large enough, stuff the fish with a bread stuffing, or a 
delicate forcemeat, and insert skewers, sew or wind with a cord to 
keep it in form, and dredge well with salt and pepper and flour. 
The fish should be placed on a triVet, a 
perforated tin sheet, or a large tin plate, or 
if nothing better is at hand, a tin pot cover f^^ 
and this set into the baking pan. This ■'"^**- 

keeps it off the bottom of the pan, thus preventing its burning, and 
the fish can be much more easily dished in perfect form. Plenty of 
butter, olive oil, or American cooking oil should be used to prevent 
its becoming dry, and the fish should be frequently basted while 
baking. Or score or cut gashes across the fish, half an inch deep 
and two inches long, cut strips of pork to fit and put them in the 
gashes, dredge as above, cover the bottom of the pan with hot 
water and place in a moderate oven, baking slowly first hour, then 
increase to a very hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes from the 
drippings in the pan, and after basting dredge each time with a lit- 
tle salt, pepper, and flour. The water in the pan must be often re- 
newed, as the bottom must only be just covered each time. A good- 
sized stuffed fish should bake an hour and a half to two hours (some 
bake fifteen minutes for each pound), and when done will be nicely 
browned if above directions are followed. Take up on a hot platter, 
remove the strings, garnish and serve with a gravy made from the 
drippings in the pan, or any sauce preferred. Some like fish baked 



FISH. 22o 

in the marinade given in Boiled Fish ; or put into the baking pan 
before preparing the fiph two tablespoons butter, a carrot, turnip, 
potato, and onion, cut in slices, two blades mace, teaspoon white 
pepper, tablespoon celery seed, six cloves and a cup vinegar ; set in 
the oven until the fish is ready to bake when use it for basting, add- 
ing hot water as needed, serving it (strained) with the fish as a sauce, 
with the addition of a little flour to thicken. Almost any fish may 
be baked, though those most commonly cooked in this way are 
Lake Superior trout, blue-fish, black-fish, pike, rock-fish, bass, 
white-fish, shad and mackerel. Any of the larger kinds of fish may 
be baked in slices. Fish too small to be stuffed should be dipped 
in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread-crumbs before baking. 
Should the oven become too hot put a piece of buttered writing pa- 
per over the fish to prevent its becoming scorched. Mackerel is 
sometimes baked entirely enveloped in greased writing paper, and is 
then served in the paper. When herrings are liked to look red 
some add a little cochineal and saltpetre to the drippings. 

Boiled Fish. — For boiling, a fish-kettle is almost indispensable, 
as it is very difficult to remove a large fish without breaking from 
an ordinary kettle. The fish-kettle is an oblong covered boiler, in 
which is suspended a perforated tin plate, with a handle at each 

end, on which the fish rests while boiling, 
and with which it is lifted out when done 
and placed over a kettle to drain a mo- 
ment or two. From this tin it is easily 
slipped off" to the platter on which it 
goes to the table. When no fish-kettle is 
at hand, wrap and pin in a cloth (some 
flour it), lay in a circle on a steamer tin, 
a sieve or plate, and set in a kettle. When 
done the fish may be lifted out gently by the cloth and thus removed 
to the platter. Some simply spread a napkin on the plate under 
the fish, leaving the four corners outside the kettle, with which to 
lift it out ; or a towel or napkin may be put under the plate, the 
ends brought together and tied over the fish, and when done it may 
be lifted from the kettle, plate and all, by putting a fork under the 
knot, and so prevent all possibility of the fish breaking from its own 
weight, as it might when lifted from the plate in a cloth, unless 
done very carefully. All large fish (except salmon, which is put on 
in hot water to preserve its color) should be put on in cold water, 
but small ones in boiling water, for the reason that fish cooks so 
quickly that almost as soon as it touches the boiling water it is 
done, and if a large one were put on in boiling water the outside 
would be done and the inside raw. Large fish must be cooked very 
gently or the outside will break before the inner part is done, thvis 
creating a waste and spoiling the handsome and appetizing appear* 




224 FISH. 

ance of the fish; if necessary to add a little water while the fish is 
cooking, it should be poured in carefully at the side of the vessel ; 
but the less water used the better. Fish should never be allowed to 
boil hard, but the water should be brought to the boiling point as 
quickly as possible, when all scum must be taken off, and the fish 
kept simmering until done. Simmering is a gentle bubbling of the 
Avater. Should it begin to boil rapidly, draw it to back of range, or 
throw in a little cold water. In boiling fish, allow five to ten min- 
utes to the pound, according to thickness, after putting into the 
water, and some Avill be done Avhen the boiling point is reached. 
To test, pass a knife along a bone, and if done the fish will separate 
easily. Kemove the moment it is done, or it will become "woolly" 
and insipid. Salmon and all dark-fleshed fish require longer boil- 
ing than the white-fleshed kinds. A whole mackerel needs about a 
quarter of an hour to do it properly ; herrings, and many other 
sorts of fish, scarcely half so long. The addition of salt and vinegar 
to water in which fish is boiled, seasons the fish, and at the same 
time hardens the water, so that it extracts less of the nutritious 
part of the fish. Some rub vinegar or lemon juice on the outside of 
the fish before putting it in the vfater. When only salt is added to 
the water in which fish is boiled it is, in French parlance, a Veau de 
sel ; when sea-water is used the fish is said to be dressed a Vllollan- 
daise; when the water is flavored with vinegar, spices and onions, the 
fish is served as au court hoidllon^ and simmered in a small quan- 
tity of water with a seasoning of savory herbs, it is a la honne eau. 

A good recipe for Court Bouillon^ is the following : Four 
quarts water, one onion, one slice carrot, two cloves, two tablespoons 
salt, one of vinegar, one teaspoon pepper, juice of half a lemon and 
a bunch sweet herbs. Tie the onion, carrot, cloves and herbs in a 
piece of muslin and put in the Avater Avith the other ingredients. 
Cover and boil sloAA^ly an hour, then put in the fish and boil as 
directed. This is also called Marinade^ and a more highly flavored 
preparation is made thus : Cut fine tAVO carrots, three onions, half 
a dozen shallots, a clove of garlic, and put them into a stcAA^pan Avith 
a piece of butter, a bunch of parsley, a little celery, and a bunch of 
SAveet herbs ; fry the Avhole for a fcAV minutes, then add, A^ery gradu- 
ally, two quarts Avater, pint vinegar, one or tAvo tablespoons salt, two 
dozen peppercorns, same of allspice, and tAVO cloves. Simmer the 
Avhole together one and a half hours, strain the liquor, and put it by 
for use, Avhen fish is to be boiled ; if carefully strained after the 
fish has been taken out it may be used several times, adding a little 
Avater each time. Fish dressed in it should simmer very gently, or 
rather stew than boil, as it afi'ords to mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, 
roach, and any of the small riA^er fish, the advantage of dissolving, 
or so thoroughly softening their bones as to render them more agree- 
able in eating. Large fish should be cut into steaks before being 
marinaded. Instead of the Adnegar a cup each of essence of an- 



FISH. 225 

chovies, and catsup may be used ; or fennel, chives, thyme, and 
bay leaves, may be added. Or, choose a kettle that will suit the size 
of the fish, into which put the above proportions of water and 
vinegar with a piece of butter, some fried onions and ca,rrots, pep- 
per, salt, two or three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs (first fry- 
ing all in a little butter), using less of each than given above if not 
liked so highly flavored ; simmer fifteen minutes, skim or strain, let 
it become cold, then put in the fish, first rubbing it with lemon juice 
and salt, and let it simmer until done. Serve with anchovy sauce 
and juice of lemon, or on a napkin surrounded with parsley, with a 
caper or pickle sauce, or any kind of fish sauce, in a sauce-boat. 
The fresh-water fish, or those which have no decided flavor, are 
much better marinaded or boiled a\L court houillon. The sea-fish, or 
such as have a pronounced flavor, can be boiled in simple salted and 
acidulated water, and another plain stock for fish is to two quarts 
cold water put half a cup of vinegar, tablespoon salt, a teaspoon 
each whole cloves and whole peppers, a bay leaf and half a lemon 
sliced if wished. Fish of the shape of herrings should, for boiling, 
be curled round with their tails skewered in their mouths ; small fish, 
such as smelts, etc., should be run five or six on a skewer through 
their eyes. Many prefer to serve boiled fish upon a napkin, rather 
than with a sauce poured over it ; and a plain white sauce is thought 
to be better with boiled salmon than anything less simple, serving 
cucumbers or melon in slices apart ; silver eels may have a sauce 
over them, and salt cod, boiled, is often served masked with mashed 
parsnips or potatoes. With bass, blue-fish and carp, serve anchovy, 
caper, or tomato sauce. Sturgeon and some other fish are better 
if just basted and frothed before the fire after being boiled ; cod's 
head and shoulders are much better when thus treated. Pike, 
boiled, can be first stuffed with forcemeat, but it is best when 
baked. Fennel should be boiled with mackerel, and gooseberry 
sauce served with it; grated loaf-sugar is generally offered with 
mackerel, and mint is also eaten with it. Mustard is served with 
boiled cod, smelts, herrings, and perch. Drawn butter sauce with 
lemon juice or eggs is also a favorite accompaniment with all boiled 
fish. 

It is quite appropriate to serve a boiled middle cut of salmon or 
any large fish at a dinner; it is the best cut, 
easier and cheaper to serve, and one never cares 
to supply more than is necessary. This cut is _^ ___ 

better slowly boiled, also, in the acidulated salted Boned saimon. 

water. 

Broiled Fish. — Fish weighing between half a pound and four 

pounds are nice for broiling, though about three pounds and a half 

is the best size. The small fish should be fried whole, and the 

larger ones scored, or split down the back. See that tha fish is 

15 





226 FISH. 

properly cleaned, wipe dry with a cloth, and either rub it with vin- 
egar or dredge it with flour, then dip it into olive oil, or egg and 
))rcad-crumbs ; or roll it well in chopped herl)S ; though many simply 
rub it over with butter. Always use a double broiler, if possible, 
and before putting the fish into it, heat 
hot, and rub over with butter to prevent 
the fish sticking. The size or thickness 
of the fish will have to be the guide in 
l)roiling; if the fish is small it will re- 
quire a clear, hot fire ; if large the fire 
must be moderate, otherwise the outside douwo Brouer 

of the fish will be burned before the 

inside is cooked. Some brown the fish handsomely over the coals 
and then put it in the oven to finish cooking ; when the fish is 
very thick, or broiled with a stuffing, as mackerel sometimes is, this 
is a good plan. But when fish are split they are very easily broiled 
over the fire. If the fish is taken from the broiler to be put into the 
oven it should be slipped on to a tin sheet that it may slide easily 
into the platter when served, or nothing so mars a dish of fish as to 
have it come to the table broken. In broiling, the inside should be 
exposed to the fire first, and then the skin. Great care must be 
taken that the skin does not burn. To turn the fish when broiling 
on a gridiron, separate carefully with a knife any part of it that 
sticks to the iron, then, holding a platter over the fish with one 
hand, turn the gridiron over with the other, leaving the fish on the 
platter, from which it can be easily turned back to the gridiron to 
finish cooking. Mackerel will broil in from twelve to twenty min- 
utes, young cod (also called scrod) in from twenty to thirty min- 
utes, " blue-fish in from twenty to thirty minutes, salmon in 
from twelve to twenty minutes, and white-fish, bass, mul- 
let, etc., in about eighteen minutes. As soon as the fish is done, 
sprinkle with pepper and salt, si)read butter all over it with a knife 
and set in oven a moment that the butter may soak into tlie fish. 
Some put over the fish a few drops lemon juice and a little chopped 
parsley before spreading with butter, and this is especially nice for 
shad, which is nnuih more delicious broiled than cooked in any 
other way. Soaking fish in a marinade before broiling is considered 
a great improvement, and the French soak it in olive oil made 
savory with spices. When broiling the more delicate kinds of fish 
the gridiron or broiler may be strewed with sprigs of fresh aromatic 
herbs, oiling the fish well before putting it to broil, and cooking 
very slowly. Smoked salmon should be merely heated through. 
Wlien wanted to broil quickly, fish may be first parboiled, but the 
skin will doubtless be more or less broken and its appearance thus 
marred. Broiled fish may be either masked with a sauce — tartare, 
tomato, curry or a-ny sharp sauce — or served upon a puree of sorrel, 
tomatoes, or beans, or upon an oil or caper sauce. When possibie, 



FISH. 227 

garnish with parsley, celery or lettuce. The salmon, trout, perch, 
pickerel, shad, mackerel, black-fish, blue-fish, haddock, white and 
flat-fish, are all very excellent broiled, as are also cutlets of any 
kind offish, but the Spanish mackerel, from the Gulf, and pompano 
are especially prized for cooking in this manner. The California 
salmon is the most highly esteemed of its kind for many uses, and 
the cutlets are very nice broiled. 

Collared Fish. — A side of salmon, a fine mackerel or eel, or a 
piece of sturgeon large enough for a handsome roll will make a good 
collar. Split the fish, remove the head, tail and fins and bone care- 
fully, but do not skin it (when an eel is used it must of course be 
skinned), wipe dry, rub well on both sides with spices, salt and very 
finely shred herbs, roll as tightly as possible, tie securely with broad 
tape and put a cloth round it ; place it in boiling hot vinegar and 
water — equal parts of each — seasoned with bruised bay leaves, salt 
and a bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer very slowly until the fish is 
done. A larger sized collar of sturgeon or salmon requires two 
hours' simmering to cook it well ; eel or mackerel will be done in 
fifteen or twenty minutes. Take it up, reduce the liquor by boiling, 
strain, and when cold pour over the fish and set away until wanted. 
The cloth need not be removed until just before the fish is served. 
If to be served hot, the fish may be tied only with tape and baked ; 
garnish with sprigs of fresh fennel or grated horseradish. Serve 
whole or sliced. When boiled, the bones, head, etc., may be tied in 
a muslin bag and boiled in the liquor with the fish to give it a richer 
flavor. Minced oysters, anchovies or lobster, mixed with raw yolk 
of egg, may be spread inside salmon or sturgeon before rolling with 
the spices. If kept long the liquor of the fish must be drained ofi" 
and boiled up from time to time, and when cold poured again over 
the fish. 

Crimped Fish. — The fish must be as fresh as possible ; cut into 
nice shaped slices about two inches thick, and put into a saucepan 
of salted water that has been brought to a boil, checking with a lit- 
tle cold water when the fish is put in ; take out the fish in a few 
minutes, carefully place on a cloth to drain, dredge with flour or 
wash over with yolk of egg and broil slowly over a clear fire. Serve 
with anchovy, oyster, or caper sauce in the dish. Salmon, cod, shad, 
rock-fish, bass and halibut are all excellent crimped. 

Curried Fish. — Salmon, cod, eels, flounders and flat-fish gener- 
ally, may be made into curries, and must first be carefully boned, 
then fried and a boiling gravy seasoned with curry powder poured 
over them ; when the whole boils remove from fire and add some 
bits of butter and beaten yolk of egg. A little chopped onion fried 
in butter is often used in curries, and oysters are always a nice ad- 
dition. The French method of currying fish is to first make some 



228 FISH. 

butter hot in a pan and add the curry powder ; the fish is then put 
in (either raw or cold), and when done add gravy mixed with the 
well-beaten yolk of an egg ; when this sauce becomes smooth and 
thick serve all together with a rim of tomatoes. Eels may be cut 
into lengths and are nicer to first slowly simmer in gravy. Some 
simmer the curry powder slowly in the gravy two hours on the day 
before using, to take off the rawness of the turmeric. The curry it- 
self should be made only a short time before it is wanted for the 
table or the flavor will be impaired. Cucumber and melon are often 
introduced in this dish, as well as curds, cream, rice, garlic, etc. 

Deviled Fish. — Take any kind of small fish, or cutlets of fish 
(raw, or previously cooked and grown cold), soak them half an 
hour in either soy. Chili vinegar, catsup, or any stock sauce ; drain 
and broil them, and serve with a horseradish, chutney, piquant, or 
mustard sauce. The fish may be rolled in curry powder, if preferred. 

Dried Fish. — Fish may be simply salted well and dried in the 
air, afterwards smoking them if liked, or rubbed over with pepper 
and salt and cured by hanging in a dry place indoors, which is 
generally thought the better way. Codfish is most frequently plain- 
ly salted, without being spiced or smoked. Hake is merely dried by 
exposure to the air, without having been previously salted. Small 
fish only require to remain twenty- four hours in a sufficient quantity 
of salt. Most others should be split open, and the backbone re- 
moved ; sprinkle with salt, and hang up to drain for a day and a night 
then rub with a little salt, moist sugar (and pepper or spices, if 
liked), and at the end of twenty-four hours put them to dry, and 
afterwards slowly smoke them. A great deal depends upon the 
pains bestowed upon it to cure fish at home successfully. Beside 
those above mentioned, mackerel, haddock, herrings, salmon, pike 
and trout will be found very nice thus cured. 

Fricasseed Fish. — The fish to be fricasseed should be first 
tossed (lightly fried) in oil or dripping until about half done, then 
slowly stewed in gravy rendered savory with spices, shred onion, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, etc., flavored with vinegar or lemon juice. 
When the fish is sufficiently dressed, thicken the' sauce with yolk of 
egg, and serve all together in a dish decorated with sliced lemon or 
orange. Less flavoring is needed for a fricassee than for a stew on 
account of the fish having gained greater savoriness through being 
partially fried. Large fish should always be boned and, if neces- 
sary, skinned, then fricasseed in small slices or rolls. Minced an- 
chovies, as well as oysters, are an admirable addition. A fricassee 
should be sent to the table as hot as possible ; when the fish is 
sufficiently dressed it should be served, instead of allowing it to 
sodden in the saucepan. Flat-fish, perch, cod-sounds, eels, salmon, 
cat-fish, and most kinds of river and pond fish are thus fricasseed. 



FISH. 229 

For a Fricassee of Cod, wash and cut two pounds of fresh codfish 
in two-inch squares, removing skin and bones ; put over the fire in 
sufficient cold water to cover it an inch, with one teaspoon salt, and 
let it slowly approach the boiling point ; then take it from the water 
with a skimmer, lay it on a warm dish, cover it with a toAvel wet in 
warm water, and place it where it will keep warm without drying. 
Strain the water in wich the fish was boiled and use one pint of it 
together with one tablespoon each butter and flour to make a white 
sauce, first melting together the butter and flour, and then gradually 
stirring in the water ; season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper, 
put the fish into it and heat until the flakes begin to separate ; then 
remove the saucepan from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk of one egg 
and a tablespoon vinegar ; if parsley is obtainable, add one tablespoon 
chopped fine ; serve as soon as done. Toast or two inch slices of 
fried bread may accompany the dish. Three tablespoons of salad 
oil may be added to the sauee, a few drops at a time, with the 
vinegar, if desired. Halibut and bass are excellent when cooked in 
t-his way. 

Fried Fish. — The smaller kinds of fish, as brook trout, perch, 
sun-fish, and smelts, usually called pan-fish, and the small bass and 
pickerel, are best for frying, either by "tossing" or sauteing in a 
small quantity of fat or oil in a pan (commonly called frying), or by 
immersing in hot fat or oil like doughnuts, the latter being generally 
considered the better method. Hot lard, beef drippings, olive oil, 
or American cooking oil may all be used for frying fish, though many 
prefer the oils, chiefly because of the difficulty of procuring pure 
lard or fat, and as the oil can be clarified and used over and over 
again it is quite as economical as lard or dripping. The secret of 
frying to perfection by immersing is to have the lard or oil so deep 
that it entirely covers the fish and so hot as instantly to form a 
crust over the entire surface. If the fish is large and further cook- 
ing is necessary, the heat must be reduced. Test the fat (as directed 
in Fritters) before putting in the fish, for if it is not hot enough the 
fish will absorb it and thus become greasy and unwholesome. The 
fish-kettle heretofore illustrated may be used for frying fish, or one 
may be ordered of any tinner. Have an oval pan made of tin and 
an oval basket or plate fitting into it, made with a heavy wire edge 
and fine wires running across half an inch apart ; or have it made of 
coarse wire cloth bound with tin, and at each end there must be a 
long wire loop for a handle. A fish fried in this is very easily taken 
up ; lift the frame from the kettle, let it stand for a moment across 
the kettle that the lard may drip, loosen from the frame with a knife 
and slide it off" on the hot platter. If a fish-kettle cannot be had a 
wire basket in which the fish is placed and lowered into the fat is a 
great convenience. Fish for frying should have the heads cut off", 
be thoroughly cleaned and wiped perfectly dry, then rub over with 



230 PISH. 

flour, or meal, or a mixture of lialf each, or dip once or twice into 
beaten egg and bread-crumbs, or a batter. When browned on one 
side, turn, and when done drain quite dry, sprinkle with salt and 
send to table on a napkin folded in a dish nicely garnished, serving 
a sauce apart. Finely shred herbs may be sprinkled over some 
kinds of fish, as eels and mackerel, before frying, but flat-fish gen- 
erally should be done with bread-crumbs and egg and sent to table 
a clear, golden yellow. Chopped onions are fried and served with 
fresh herrings. If a sufficient quantity of fat is used a good thick 
fish will not require more than ten minutes' frying, and smelts and 
other such small fish are done in five minutes or less. Smelts, 
gudgeons and oysters are often fried to use as a garnish with other 
fish. The larger fish may be cut into cutlets or steaks, rolled in 
beaten egg and cracker or bread-crumbs and fried in this manner. 
Some dip fish in milk before breading them, then into the crumbs^ 
then into beaten egg and again in the crumbs, while others roll them 
first in the crumbs, and finish same. Prepare them in this manner 
for sauteing or frying in a pan, and use a thick-bottomed pan, with 
lard or oil enough to keep them from scorching or sticking to the 
bottom of pan. Never use butter as it takes out the sweetness and 
gives a bad color. If the fish is large remove the backbone and 
cut crosswise into five or six pieces. Put into the pan skin side 
uppermost and fry slowly ; when brown on one side turn over care- 
fully and brown the other. When done (in about an hour) remove to 
hot platter and serve at once, The roe and backbone, when pre- 
viously removed, may be cut up and fried with the other pieces. 
Salt pork is sometimes put into the pan with the fish, or fried first, 
and yields sufficient fat for frying the fish, and the slices of pork 
may be served as a garnish for the fish. Fish is perhaps more often 
fried or sauted thus in a pan than by immersing in hot fat, but the 
latter is much the nicer method, as the fish is cooked more evenly 
and its shape is better preserved, though some think them more 
savory when sauted, j^els for frying should be skewered to form a 
circle. Large fish may be first slightly fried and afterwards stewed 
in a gravy or marinade. All the best known varieties of fish are 
excellent fried. Serve with tomato or any highly flavored sauce or 
slices of lemon. 

PicJcled Fish. — Fish of a rich oily nature is principally used for 
pickling, as the dry-fleshed kinds do not answer so well. Smelts, 
well rubbed with salt and powdeied spice, may be packed in ajar, 
and boiling hot vinegar poured over them. The ordinary method 
practised in pickling salmon, shad, herrings, mackerel, etc., is to 
boil them nicely in a small quantity of salted water, to which some 
add onions ; take them up, properly spice enough vinegar, add to it 
the liquor (strained) in which the fish were boiled, and some bruised 
bay leaves, which are an indispensable addition, give it a boil up, 



FISH. 231 

and when this and the fish are cold pour it over the hitter. If the 
fish are intended to be kept for any length of time, vinegar and 
spices alone may be used. In Europe, fish of any kind is tossed in 
oil, and when cold, covered with strong vinegar, highly spiced; 
sometimes this method is reversed by boiling the fish in vinegar, 
and when drained and cold adding spices and pouring olive oil upon 
it ; red and green pepper should be added to the fish, as they give 
flavor to the pickle. Mackerel may be split open and boned, or cut 
into small slices ; salmon and shad should be pickled in handsome- 
sized pieces. Scraped horseradish, oil, and pounded loaf sugar are to 
be served with pickled fish. For an Italian pickle, slice any kind of 
fish ; dip it in yolk of egg, fry it — or rather boil it — in oil ; when 
cold, rub it over with pounded spices ; put it into jars and pour over 
it cold vinegar seasoned with shallot, garlic and saffron. This pickle 
keeps good a year at least. 

Potted Fish. — Fish may be potted whole, in slices, or pounded 
to a paste. Smelts may be done whole. Cut off the heads, tails and 
fins of trout for potting, wipe, but not Avash, split open and bone 
them. Remove only the heads from shad, herring, and mackerel, 
and when very large cut each fish into three or four pieces. Salmon 
may be potted in any sized slices. Having prepared the fish, season 
well with salt, pepper, powdered bay leaves, and a little nutmeg, 
mace and cloves ; then pack it in pots with or without butter, and 
bake as long as the size requires ; when done drain off the grease or 
gravy and when the fish is cold pound in a mortar to a paste and 
pour clarified butter over, or the butter may be poured on without 
pounding the fish ; oil or vinegar may be added to the fish before it 
is baked, afterwards poured off and fresh used to put over the fish 
for keeping it. After putting in the pots cover closely to exclude 
the air, or the butter will become rancid and the fish spoil. Some 
prefer to pack the fish and seasoning in layers, and for this the fol- 
lowing will be found an excellent recipe : For five pounds fish take 
three ounces salt, two each of ground black pepper and cinnamon, 
one of allspice, and a half ounce cloves ; cut fish in slices, or some 
pack whole, and place in the jar in which it is to be cooked, first a 
layer o fish, then the spices, salt, and bits of butter sprinkled on, 
repeating till done. Fill the jar with equal parts vinegar and water, 
cover closely with a cloth well floured, or a piece of dough, on top 
so that no steam an escape, and bake six hours. Let it remain in 
jar until cold, cut in slices, and seive for tea. Fish so potted will 
keep a long time, if always immersed in the liquor and kept closely 
covered ; and the very bones become eatable. It affords a conven- 
ient resource in an emergency, for a few pieces of the fish can be 
taken from the pot, laid on a small dish, a little of the liquor poured 
over them, and served garnished with sprigs of parsley. What is 
left can be returned to the pot. A nice spice to be used in potting 



232 FISH. 

meats is composed of the following ingredients thoroughly mixed : 
One ounce each ground cloves, pulverized mace, Jamaica pepper, 
and grated lemon-rind, one-fourth ounce cayenne, one grated 
nutmeg. Besides the fish already mentioned, perch, pike and eels 
are excellent potted, Salmon should be skinned for potting and is 
first baked in slices in a pan with butter, seasoned with mace, cloves, 
whole peppers and bay leaves, and Avhen done drained from the 
gravy and potted with clarified butter over the top. 

Salted Fish. — Fish intended for salting should never be washed 
or wet. The larger kinds of fish should be split open, and the heads 
and intestines of the others removed, first properly scraping them ; 
then pack in a pickle-tub, with finely-powdered salt between each 
layer ; the tub containing them must be kept full, and the fish well 
covered on the top with salt. The proportion of salt should be one- 
sixth the weight of the fish. If intended -or drying, the fish should 
remain in the salt from twenty-four hours to eight days, according 
to size. Herrings are only laid in salt and a little saltpetre for 
twelve hours, and then smoked for a day and a night. The French 
way is to split open mackerel, haddock, etc , but only to draw and 
divest herrings of their heads. They are then placed in a pan, with 
a small quantity of water, and a handful or two of salt ; at the end 
of a few hours they are drained and wiped dry, and salted with a 
mixture of four parts each of salt and bay salt, and one part each of 
saltpetre and loaf-sugar in powder ; keep them well-covered for three 
months before using them. Large cod may be opened and laid upon 
a stone or brick floor and occasionally sprinkled with fresh salt un- 
til sufficiently cured; then dry by exposure to a current of air. 
Shad and bass are also salted and whenever too great a quantity of 
any kind of fresh fish is on hand it may be preserved by salting. 
An easy way to keep fish a short dme is to jDut it in salted water or 
brine that has served for beef or bacon, antl when wanted wipe dry, 
pepper and devil it, or cook in any manner, when it will be greatly 
relished. The following is a good recipe for Salted Herring: Mix 
half peck each fine and rock salt ; take one hundred and seventy- 
five herring, put them loosely in layers with salt between, and after 
four days, drain well and repack in close layers on their backs, cover- 
ing each layer with a mixture of half peck each fine and rock salt, 
quarter pound brown sugar, three quarters ounce saltpetre. Leave 
several months till salt takes effect. These are in season in Febru- 
ary, March and April. 

Scalloped Fish. — Boil a cup oyster liquor, or milk, thicken 
with a little flour or corn-starch, add two tablespoons butter, a little 
chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste and let cool ; put a 
handful fine bread-crumbs on bottom of buttered baking dish and 
cover with above sauce ; then put in a layer of cold boiled cod or 
other fish minced fine ; have three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, 




FISH. 233 

and put a layer of the egg next, then more sauce, and so on, leav- 
ing out bread-crumbs until dish is full, when put a thick layer of 
crumbs over the top, plentifully strewn with butter. Cover and 
bake until hot through, then remove cover and brown. Or put the 
remains of any cold fish, carefully picked from the bones, into a 
stewpan with a half pint cream, half tablespoon anchovy sauce, 
half teaspoon each made mustard and walnut catsup, and pepper 
and salt to taste. Set over fire to heat hot, stirring occasionally, 
but do not let boil ; put into a deep dish or scallop shells with 
plenty of bread-crumbs, place bits of butter on top and brown with 
the salamander. The anchovy sauce, walnut catsup or mustard 
may be omitted, if not liked, and milk with an egg and 
a little flour may be used instead of the cream. In 
_ ^ preparing cold fish dishes a little more butter is always 
Scallop Shin, needed than for fresh fish. For a nice fish scallop with 
mashed potatoes, take any cooked fish, boned, and mix with it a 
Avhite, egg, or drawn butter sauce seasoned to taste ; put a layer 
finely mashed potato in bottom of porcelain baking dish, put in the 
fish and cover with another layer of potatoes. Smooth the top over 
neatly and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Or form by 
heaping the fish high in the center of first layer of potatoes and 
cover this pyramid with the mashed potatoes and bake. Another 
very simple way of scalloping fish is to put thin slices of salmon, 
pike or turbot in scallop shells or small tins with bits of butter on 
top and bake until browned. Squeeze lemon juice over and serve. 
Cold fish is nice warmed over in this way. 

Steamed Fish. — After cleaning a fish, as for boiling or not, in 
either case, place tail of fish in its mouth and secure it, lay on a plate, 
pour over it a half pint vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt ; let 
stand an hour in refrigerator, pour off vinegar, and put in a steamer 
over boiling water ; steam twenty minutes, or longer if the fish is 
very large (when done the meat easily parts from the bone) ; drain 
well, and serve on a napkin garnished with curled parsley. . Serve 
drawn butter in a boat. Or when nearly done, place in oven for a 
few minutes, baste, brown, and finish as baked fish. Fish intended 
for baking are very nice to be first steamed about an hour, and 
steaming is a much better method of cooking than boiling. Mack- 
erel merely steamed, with no sauce, eaten with vinegar, or oil and 
vinegar, is delicious. 

Steiued Fish. — Almost any kind of fish are excellent stewed, 
except those of a coarse-fleshed nature, like mackerel or smelts ; 
eels, trout, carp, and fresh-water fish generally, are capital in a stew. 
A nice way of stewing is to put the fish in beef or any other gravy 
that is rich and well-seasoned, and cook it very gently from fifteen 
minutes to an hour, according to size ; add some vinegar or cider. 
thicken the liquor with yolk of egg, cream, or butter rubbed in flour, 



234 Fisfl. 

and serve the fish and sauce together. The large kinds, like salmon, 
sturgeon, cod, etc., must be cut in slices ; trout and other medium 
sized fish may be stewed whole and served Avith a sauce over them. 
Silver eels should be divided into short lengths. Some cooks flour 
the fish itself before putting it into the gravy, but the sauce is rarely, 
by this means, so smoothly thickened as it should be. A few oys- 
ters may be advantageously added to most stews, put in with the 
egg or flour ; essence of anchovy, catsup, herbs, or mushrooms may 
also be employed to increase the flavor, for stews should never taste 
insipid, but quite relishing and savory, and for this reason spices, 
lemon, pickle, chutney, tomatoes, savory herbs, caviare, or indeed 
any kind of flavoring in good taste, is admissible. Another good 
recipe for a stew is the following : Take six pounds any kind of 
fish, large or small, three pints water, quarter pound pork, or half 
cup butter, two large onions, three tablespoons flour, salt and pepper 
to taste. Cut heads from fish and remove all bones ; put heads and 
bones on to boil in the three pints water and cook gently half an 
hour ; cut the pork in slices and fry brown ; slice the onions and 
fry in the pork fat ; stir the dry flour into the onion and fat and 
cook three minutes, stirring all the time. Pour over this the water 
in which the bones have been cooking, and simmer ten minutes. 
Have the fish cut in pieces about three inches square, season well 
with salt and pepper, and place in the stew-pan ; season the sauce 
with salt and pepper, and strain on the fish, cover tight, and sim- 
mer twenty minutes, A bouquet of sweet herbs simmered with the 
bones is an improvement. Dish on a large platter and garnish with 
potato balls and parsley. The potato balls are cut from the raw 
potatoes with a vegetable scoop, and boiled ten minutes in salted 
water. Put them in little heaps around the dish. For a plainer 
stew, cut a fish across in slices an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle 
with salt ; boil two sliced onions until done, pour ofl" water, season 
with pepper, add two cups hot water and a little parsley to the 
onions, and in this simmer the fish until thoroughly done. Serve 
hot. A little lemon juice or vinegar may be added. Garnish with 
parsley and sliced lemons. 

A nice French Stew is made as follows : Clean and Avipe dry 
any kind of fish and cut into slices two inches in thickness ; put a 
cup of oil or butter into an earthen baking dish ; add chopped pars- 
ley, fennel, shallot, and a clove of garlic and bring to a boil ; rub 
the fish in plenty of spices pounded together with some saflron, and 
put it into the oil ; fry it for a few moments ; add a half pint water, 
and stew slowly till done. Beat together yolks of two eggs with 
juice of a lemon and some coarse red pepper; pour these into the 
dish, and when the sauce is set, serve all together in a dish garnished 
with pickled peppers. 

Fish Balls. — Mix a quart mashed potatoes with a cup of bits 
of butter, two teaspoons made mustard and a half teaspoon salt: 




PISH 235 

stir in two eggs beaten with a tablespoon or two of cream or milk, 
and add a pint finely shredded and chopped cold salt fish, stirring 
in a little at a time until it is thoroughly mixed Take a heaping 
tablespoon at a time and roll on a floured board, making with the 
hands into as perfect balls as possible until all made- 
up. Have the skillet of fat hot and drop in a few^ 
balls at a time ; turn to brown nicely, talie out with ^___ 

skimmer and put on sieve or colander in oven to FisuBaiis. 

drain and keep hot until all are ready to serve. Some prefer to re- 
verse the proportions given above, using twice as much fish as potato. 
Freshly baked and mashed potato is best, but cold may be used, if 
carefully re-heated, and any remains of cold fish will do. To make 
Dropped Fish Balls, take a pint raw fish, a quart pared potatoes, 
(under medium size), two eggs, butter the size of an egg, and a lit- 
tle pepper. Pick the fish very fine, and measure lightly ; put pota- 
toes into the boiler, and fish on top, cover with boiling water, and 
boil half an hour. Drain off water, and mash fish and potatoes to- 
gether until fine and light ; then add butter and pepper, and the 
well-beaten egg. Have a deep kettle of hot fat ; dip a tablespoon in 
it, and take up a spoonful of the mixture, being careful to get it into 
as good shape as possible. Drop into the boiling fat and cook until 
brown, which should be in two minutes. Be careful not to crowd 
the balls, better not let them touch, and be sure the fat is hot enough. 
The spoon should be dipped in the fat every time a spoonful of the 
mixture is taken. These balls are delicious. A pretty way of serv- 
ing fish balls is to line the dish with clean, white paper, and edge 
this with a frill of colored tissue paper — green or pink, — making a 
very ornamental dish. 

Fish Cake. — Take the boned meat of any fish, beat in a mortar 
or merely mince it fine, add a chopped onion, some chopped herbs, 
nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little catsup, or fish sauce, such as 
essence of anchovies, or shrimps, and mix it with either mashed po- 
tatoes, bread-crumbs soaked in milk, chopped hard-boiled eggs, or 
pulped tomatoes, in equal parts, put all into a buttered dish, pour 
some beaten eggs upon the top, and bake till nicely browned. Or 
put the boned fish, with the head and fins, into a stewpan with a 
pint water ; add pepper and salt, an onion and bunch of herbs, and 
stew slowly for gravy about two hours ; chop the fish fine, and mix 
it well with equal quantities bread-crumbs and cold potatoes, adding 
half teaspoon parsley and seasoning ; make the whole into a cake 
with the white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with bread- 
crumbs, and fry a~ light brown; strain the gravy, pour it over, and 
stew gently for fifteen minutes, stirring it carefully once or twice. 
Serve hot, garnished with slices of lemon and parsley. 

To make White Fish Cakes, pound the flesh of some cold fish, 
season it with white pepper, add a little lemon-juice, and mix all 



236 FISH. 

with enough white of egg to make it form a thick batter, fry it in 
small cakes, and serve garnished with crisp green parsley. If the 
yolks instead of the whites of eggs be used, and a little curry pow- 
der added, the result will be nice Yellow Fish Cakes; serve in a 
damask napkin with grated lemon-peel over them. 

Fish Chowder. — The best fish for chowder are haddock and 
striped bass, though cod, swordfish and all kinds of whitefish are 
excellent, and any fresh fish may be used. For a good chowder 
prepare the ingredients by first slicing a quarter pound pickled 
pork, and fry it in a pot ; then cut five pounds fresh codfish or had- 
dock in slices an inch thick and free from skin and bone ; peel and 
cut two onions in thin slices, and put them to fry with the pork as 
soon as there is enough fat to keep them from burning ; peel and 
slice four more onions and keep them to use later ; peel and slice 
ten potatoes in pieces a quarter of an inch thick ; (boiled 
potatoes are sometimes used) ; have ready a pound of sea-biscuit, or 
Boston crackers. As soon as the pork and onions are brown take 
them from the pot with fat in which they were fried, leaving about 
four tablespoons of the fat in the bottom of the pot ; put into the 
pot a layer of fish, next a layer of potatoes, then a layer of the fried 
and raw onions, and season at this layer with a quarter saltspoon 
ground pepper, and a level teaspoon salt. Repeat the layers of fish, 
potatoes and onions until one-half the ingredients have been used ; 
then add one-half the pork and biscuit or crackers, split, pour- 
ing half the drippings from the pork on the crackers. Put the re- 
mainder of the fish, potatoes and onions in the pot in layers, add 
pepper and salt as before, and place on the top the rest of the crack- 
ers, pork and drippings. Pour over all these ingredients cold water 
enough to reach three inches above the top layer, and place the pot 
over the fire where the chowder will boil gently for an hour, or until 
the whole is thoroughly cooked ; if it should burn it would be 
spoiled. At the end of an hour add a half pint cream, and serve in 
a tureen and soup-plates ; eat with dry sea-biscuits, or Boston crack- 
ers. Another way of preparing the fish, if large, is to remove the 
backbone and skin, cut in pieces about three inches square and roll 
them in flour ; put the skin, bones and head into two quarts water 
and boil half an hour, meantime preparing and placing other in- 
gredients, with the fish, in the kettle as above ; pour over the top 
the water in which the skin and bones have been boiled and at the 
end of half an hour, or when the chowder is done, add a quart milk 
or a cup cream and serve as above. Some prepare the fish by cut- 
ting into pieces an inch thick and two inches square, and some boil 
the pork instead of frying, while others use it in raw slices, in both 
cases putting a layer of the pork in bottom of kettle and alternating 
with the layers of crackers, fish and potatoes. When the pork is 
fried some prefer to chop it fine and use it in layers, alternating 



FISH. 237 

with the other ingredients. Both crackers and potatoes may be 
used, as above, or one or the other may be omitted. Some simply 
soak crackers in Avater or milk, or they may be split open and but- 
tered, then "crisped" in the oven if liked, scalded with sufficient hot 
milk and put in just before taking up. Onions may be put in raw, 
if chopped. Layers of potatoes in thin slices are sometimes added, 
and a sprinkling of parsley is liked by many. Instead of dishing 
up all together, the fish may be skimmed out into the tureen and 
kept hot while the gravy is thickened with cracker dust or flour ; 
boil up once, add chopped parsley, catsup and lemon-juice to taste, 
and pour over the fish. 

Fish Croquettes. — Stir together in saucepan over the fire a 
tablespoon each flour and butter, and add either water or milk, making 
a thick sauce ; let boil, season with salt and pepper and put in 
pint cold flaked fish and scald ; remove from fire and stir into it the 
yolks of two or three eggs. Rub a deep plate with salad oil, 
pour the mixture in and let get thoroughly cold. Then make up 
into cork-shaped rolls. Wet the hands to prevent sticking. Roll 
in sifted bread crumbs, dip in beaten egg then again in bread- 
crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, until a delicate 
brown. Take out with skimmer, and lay on brown paper an instant 
to absorb fat. A teaspoon onion chopped fine and fried in the but-! 
ter before the sauce is made, imparts a nice flavor to the croquettes. 
A perfect croquette is semi-liquid in center. Melted butter is not so 
good as oil for greasing the dish, as it will not prevent sticking. 
The cracker dust should be rolled and sifted, as the finer it is the 
more easily the croquettes are prepared, and the nicer they will fry. 
Another way is to remove the bones and chop fine any cold fish 
— boiled, baked or fried — and mix with it one-third as much mashed 
potato rubbed to a cream with a little melted butter ; add a little 
white sauce made of butter melted in milk, and thickened with 
corn starch and a beaten egg ; season with chopped parsley, salt, 
pepper and anchovy sauce or walnut catsup. Mix, make into balls 
and roll in beaten egg and cracker dust and fry as above. Send to 
table hot with sliced lemon round them. An improvement on the 
old fish balls. Or, put a piece of butter in a saucepan, dredge in 
some flour, and stir over the fire some minced cold fish, chopped 
mushrooms, bread-crumbs, herbs and shallot, pepper and salt; cook 
until thick and when cold form into balls. Egg and bread-crumb 
them twice, fry a nice brown in hot fat, arrange in pyramid form on 
a plate and garnish with parsley. 

Fish Dressing. — Two cups bread or cracker crumbs, one of 
mashed potatoes, one well-beaten egg, two tablespoons butter, tea- 
spoon sage and savory, or a little thyme, and one do^en chopped 
clams or oysters ; moisten with warm rich new milk, salt and pepper 
to taste. This dressing is also good for duck or game with a finely 



238 FISH. 

chopped onion added. Or, for a plainer dressing, taKe one pint 
bread-crumbs, two tablespoons melted butter, one raw egg, pepper, 
salt and one tablespoon celery seed. 

Fish Fritters. — Put two tablespoons flour in a bowl with half 
saltspoon salt, and stir in gradually a gill tepid water and tablespoon 
salad oil (melted butter or fat will do), and the well-frothed whites 
of two eggs. The batter is the better for standing before used, and 
if made without the eggs it must stand at least four hours. If the 
fish are small skin them, wipe dry with a cloth and put the tail in 
the mouth ; roll well in flour — dusting is not sufficient — dip them' 
into the batter and fry in hot fat. If the fish are large, bone and 
cut into neat slices and dry, flour and fry them as small fish. To make 
them extra nice rub the fish first with powdered spices or herbs, 
then roll in flour and dip in batter. Or fritters may be made of any 
cold fish, which must be minced very fine, or, better, pounded in a 
mortar ; add any seasoning liked, spices, herbs, onions, etc., and 
either stir the fish in the batter and drop by spoonfuls into the fat, 
or carefully place little heaps of it on spoonfuls of the batter and 
put into the hot fat with the fish uppermost. 

Fish Pies. — Salmon, eels, cod, mackerel, trout, herrings, floun- 
ders, salt fish, and in short almost any kind of fish are good in pies. 
Large fish must of course be used in slices, small fish must have 
heads, tails and fins removed, bone them also if possible, and flat 
fish should be skinned. Line a shallow baking pan or a pie tin 
with a nice paste, or rich baking powder crust, leaving a good rim, 
and put the fish in, covered with a rich, highly-seasoned white sauce, 
or with bits of butter plentifully strewn over, and season with salt, 
pepper, herbs and spices to taste ; when the white sauce is not used 
add cream and fine bread-crumbs or cracker dust — and hard-boiled 
eggs, chopped, if liked — -to a pie made of cold fish, and many like 
them in a pie made of saiy fresh fish. Alternate layers of oysters 
seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, with the bread-crumbs 
and fi sh, make a very nice Fish Oyster Pie., but should be put in 
dish without the under crust. Cover with bread-crumbs, which 
must be browned, or with a good crust, pinching the edges well 
together and bake. Some prefer to cut pie paste in strips and lay 
in cross-bars over the top with a roll of the paste round the edge. 
A pie of ordinary size will bake in a moderate oven in about an 
hour. If of cold cooked fish much less time will be required. If 
the fish is first lightly fried in butter the flavor of the pie will be 
greatly improved. Eels should be previously stewed. Salt fish 
must first be soaked, boiled, boned, minced, and mixed with plenty 
of fresh butter ; serve with mustard or horseradish sauce. 

Boiled Fish Puddings are made in much the same way, using 
a deep baking dish or bowl ; alwrys cover with the top crust, and 
tie the dish in a cloth, then pL;c in a kettle of hot water. The 



FISH. 239 

time required for boiling will depend upon the size of the pudding. 
Bruised bay leaves, chopped parsley, onion, pepper, bottled sauce, 
etc., are used for flavoring. Small trout and perch, with the addition 
of a few button mushrooms, are exceedingly good in puddings, and 
the fish mentioned for pies are excellent for this dish. 

Fish Rissoles. — Cut thin slices of any fish, or finely chop it ; 
sprinkle with catsup, cayenne pepper, shred lemon-peel, or any other 
savory addition preferred. Enclose portions of the fish between very 
thin paste, fasten the edges together, and fry the rissoles, like dough- 
nuts, till nicely browned ; they may be of any shape — rounds, stars, 
crescents, or triangles. Serve hot, decorated with a bunch of crisp 
paTsley. Or line patty pans with a nice paste, put in the fish 
moistened with a little cream and bake in oven, for Fish Patties. 

Fish Salad. — Rub yolks of three eggs to smooth paste with a 
little salad oil ; add one teaspoon each salt and pepper, one table- 
spoon each made mustard and sugar, and lastly six tablespoons 
vinegar. Beat the mixture until light and just before pouring over 
the fish stir in lightly the frothed Avhite of an egg. Put fish in dish 
with six tablespoons vinegar and stir half the dressing in with it ; 
spread remainder over the top -and lay blanched lettuce leaves around 
the edges to be eaten with it, or garnish with a row of sliced toma- 
toes. Or arrange in a dish cold fish of any kind and pour over it a 
mayonnaise made by beating gradually together raw yolks of eggs, 
lemon-juice, and Italian olive-oil ; season to taste, and, if preferred, 
color it green by empl(>ying spinach-juice or bruised herbs. Propor- 
tion according to quantity of fish. Decorate the dish with lumps of 
clear fish jelly, capers, gherkins, etc. Or pour over the fish a sauce 
made as follows : Chop together chervil, tarragon, cress and mus- 
tard leaves ; add pepper and salt, and mix together with enough 
olive-oil and vinegar to make it of the proper consistency ; garnish 
the dish Avith slices of lemon and cucumber, placed alternately, 
sprinkled with cayenne pepper and minced anchovy. A more 
simple salad is made by melting some fresh butter in a stewpan 
and adding lemon-juice, pepper, chopped shallot and parsley, and 
olive oil ; pour over the fish, strew crushed bay salt and grated 
lemon-rind on top before sending to table, and decorate with pickles. 
For a nice Salmon Salad, cut cold boiled salmon into slices or 
pieces two inches long, and marinade by letting stand two or three 
hours in vinegar well seasoned with pepper, salt, a little salad oil 
and chopped onion and parsley. Arrange lettuce leaves in bottom 
of salad dish and cover with Italian dressing, (see Salads), placing 
the salmon, bordering with a row of hard-boiled eggs in slices, in a 
ring on this, and fill 'in center with mayonnaise sauce. Sprinkle 
capers over all. Pike, blue-fish, flounders, etc., may be used in 
salads in same manner. The fish may be either fried or boiled, or 



240 FISH. 

remnants of cold used. Slices may be more neatly shaped before 
cooking, if cold fish is not used. 

Fish Sandwiches. — Butter thin slices of bread on both sides, 
lay thin pieces of anchovy, tunny fish, sardine, smoked salmon, 
bloater, or other cured fish on half; sprinkle some seasoning upon the 
tops, and place the other slices of bread upon them ; lay the sand- 
wiches m a dish, and set them in a quick oven till the bread is 
nicely browned. The soft roe of a shad or herring, mashed and 
spread between bread-and-butter, and baked, is a very savory relish. 
Pressed cavaire used in the same way is particularly good. Chopped 
hard-boiled eggs may be mixed with the fish and a little mayonnaise 
or any sauce preferred is a relished addition. Fish Canapes may 
also be classed with sandwiches and are prepared thus : Cut some 
rather thick slices of bread ; cut out a round from the center of each, 
fry them in olive-oil or butter and place upon them minced anchovy, 
tunny fish, cured salmon, sardine, or fresh shell-fish of any kind^ 
add seasoning, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg chopped fine, to^ 
gether with any chopped pickles or herbs liked. 

Fish SouMe. — Pare eight good-sized potatoes and boil thirty 
minutes, drain the Avater from them, and mash very fine ; then mix 
thoroughly with a pint finely chopped, cooked salt fish. Add two 
tablespoons butter, salt and pepper, and three-fourths cup hot milk 
or cream ; stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs, and heap this 
in the dish in which it is to be served. Place in the oven for ten 
minutes. Beat the whites of two eggs to stiff" froth, and add a quar- 
ter teaspoon salt ; then add yolks. Spread this over the dish of 
fish ; return to the oven to brown, and serve. 

Fish Soups. — Fish soups may be made as rich or as thin as 
liked, but about a pound of fish to a pint of water, with the requisite 
seasoning, will make a very good soup. When stock is required to 
make anything richer, it should be compounded wholly of fish 
rather than from meat. The liquor in which a salmon hag been 
boiled makes a capital foundation for a fish soup. With the excep- 
tion of the richer kinds, such as herrings, mackerel, or sprats, almost 
any fish is suitable for soup. The thickenings used for fish soups 
are potato flour, fried bread-crumbs, cream, butter rolled in flour, 
ground rice, cod roe, lobster spaAvn, or caviare, beaten to a paste ; 
yolk of egg, either raw or hard-boiled, and pounded smooth, together 
with an admixture of olive oil ; mashed turnip, crushed macaroni, 
or Italian paste, etc. Eels for soup should be simmered until the 
flesh leaves the bones, then strain, and add thickening and season- 
ings. The following are all nice adjuncts to fish soup : Small bits 
fried bread or toast, hard-boiled eggs in quarters, forcemeat balls, 
picked shrimps, prawn, or crayfish ; French roll, fried brown ; slips 
of pickled anchovies, little onions, first lightly fried in butter, sliced 



FISH. 241 

cucumber, mushrooms, or quartered tomatoes. To make Brown Fish 
Soup, take any kind offish, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, and 
brown in olive-oil or butter in saucepan ; cover with hot water, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and boil slowly for about fifteen minutes. 
See that there is plenty of water. One pound will make a quart of 
soup. A clove of garlic or any flavoring liked may be added. 

Fish Straws. — With the exception of mackerel the fish should 
be skinned, and good fillets (narrow strips) taken lengthwise free 
from bone ; soak for two hours in lemon-juice seasoned with chopped 
onions, parsley and pepper ; take out, wipe dry, roll in flour, and 
fry in dripping or oil until a fine brown ; drain from fat, pile in a dish, 
and serve a tomato sauce round them. Haddock, mackerel, or any 
kind of flat fish are used for these straws. 

Fish Toast. — Bone any preserved fish, such as smoked salmon, 
herring, etc., season with cayenne pepper, made mustard (if liked) 
and salt ; when it is a smooth paste add an equal quantity of fresh 
butter, incorporate both well together, and spread upon pieces of hot 
toast ; put these for a few moments into an oven, and send to table 
when well heated. 

Fish Turhans. — Bone and skin a fish, as directed in preface, 
and after cutting the entire fish into fillets or slices, roll each one up 
and fasten with a broom straw. These little rolls are called Turbans. 
Stuff or not, as wished, with highly seasoned soaked bread, and 
place in pan with butter or oil in the bottom, but no water. Cook 
in oven only long enough for the flakes to separate. Dish and serve 
on tartare sauce. Flounders or any fish may be used. 

Fish with Parmesan Cheese. — Remove all bone and skin from 
some cold fish ; trim it nicely, and place in a stewpan over the fire ; 
add sufficient white sauce to moisten it. Butter a dish, arrange the 
fish and sauce upon it, and strew it rather thickly with bread- 
crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese ; sprinkle it Avith melted butter, 
and place in oven to brown. If the flavor of Parmesan is too strong 
Gruyere cheese may be used ; or the bread-crumbs alone may be 
employed, when a dish of cold fish, au gratin, is intended to be 
served. 

Fish in Jelly. — Make a savory jelly of calves' feet, (see Jellies), 
or by slowly boiling any kind of fish — flounders or any flat fisn, 
whatever is cheapest — until it jellies, which may be ascertained by 
the usual test for jellies, which see. Some like the flavor of a few 
button onions, a little lemon juice, parsley, and a slight sprinkling 
of sugar cooked with the fish. Strain, and if not perfectly clear^ 
clarify according to directions in soups and pour a little into a mold ; 
when properly set, arrange upon it the previously cooked fish (smelts, 
Uerch, or other small fish should be fried or baked with the tail in 



242 



FISH. 



the mouth), and carefully pour in more jelly until the mold is filled. 
When entirely cold and congealed wrap it in a hot cloth for a few 
moments and turn out on an ornamental dish. Serve for supper or 
luncheon. Slices or strips of cold salmon, turbot or soles, when 
used, may be cut in fancy shapes or arranged in ornamental devices 
in the jelly, and oysters, cooked just enough to plump them, hard- 
boiled eggs in rings, or forcemeat balls colored a bright green with 
spinach juice, are nice additions. A very handsome and appetizing 
dish. 

Fish with Olives. — Peel and cut a nice tender cucumber into 
slices an inch thick ; fry them in olive oil, and fry in another pan 
some fillets of fish bound and rubbed in flour and white pepper ; 
when done, arrange the slices of cucumber in a dish and place the 
fillets upon them. Throw some stoned olives into the oil and let 
remain just long enough to get hot. Put them round the dish and 
serve at once. 

Fish with Rice. — Carefully bone enough cold fish to make a 
moderate-sized dish, add cayenne pepper and salt, and lightly fry in 
a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter ; when quite hot add a teacup 
boiled rice and chopped yolks of four hard-boiled eggs ; stir well to- 
gether until perfectly hot; shape it upon a dish, and serve with 
pickles. 

Boiled Bass. — Clean a handsome piece of fish, open it at the 
belly and remove the bone ; lard the flesh with slips of anchovy, 
truffles, tunny fish, and gherkins ; stufi" it with the flesh of other 
fish, such as lobster, oysters, crayfish, prawns, etc; season and 
fasten it together so that it may retain its original form as nearly as 
possible ; wrap in a cloth and boil in richly-flavored liquor till done ; 
when cold remove the covering, lay in a dish, glaze and decorate 
round with crusts of jelly and little ornamental heaps of butter. 
Salmon, sturgeon and pike can be cooked as above. 

Potted Bloater. — Cut off heads and clean as many fish as 
wanted, then put in oven till cooked through ; take from oven, skin 
and carefully separate meat from bones ; put the meat in ajar with 
half its weight of butter and set in cool oven to cook slowly half an 
hour ; then put the fish into a mortar or bowl, pour the butter over 
it, taking care not to let the gravy pass too, unless fish is to be eaten 
soon, as it will not keep so well ; pound butter and fish together 
with a pestle or potato masher, to a paste, add a little cayenne, and 
press into small pots, pouring melted butter or mutton suet a third 
of an_ inch thick over top of each. Least expensive and most 
appetizing of all potted meats, and makes excellent sandwiches. 

Boiled Cod's Mead and Shoulders. — Cleanse the fish thorough- 
ly, and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside of the fish, 



FISH. 



243 




Cod's Head aad Shoulders. 



one or two hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the 
flavor. Lay the head and shoulders in fish-kettle or deep pan with 
sufficient cold water to cover. Be very particular not to pour the 
water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just 
simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring 

it in at the side 
of the kettle, 
and not on the 
fish. Add salt 
in proportion 
of three table- 
spoons to each 
gallon of wa- 
ter, and bring 
gradually to a 

boil ; a little horse-radish and vinegar or lemon juice added now im- 
prove the fish. Skim very carefully, draw to the back of range, and 
let it gently simmer till done, about half an hour. Take out and 
drain ; dish on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon, and horse- 
radish and serve with either drawn butter or eggs. Prepare Boiled 
White Fish in same manner. For a Cod Pie, carefully remove all 
skin from any fish that is left and pick from the bones, place in a pie 
dish or pan, pour over melted butter to moisten, and a dozen or so 
oysters (or oyster sauce if left) and cover with mashed potatoes. 
Bake half an hour and serve nicely browned. Any cold fish may be 
used and is delicious and very economical. A more elaborate Cod 
Pie is made by laying two iresh slices large cod in salt for four 
hours, wash, place in a dish, season, add two tablespoons butter, 
half pint any good stock, cover with pie or baking powder crust as 
rich as liked with center cut out by a cup and bake one hour. Make 
a sauce of quarter pint cream or milk, one tablespoon stock, a little 
thickening of flour and butter, finely-chopped lemon peel and a 
dozen or so oysters, let boil once and pour it into the pie at opening 
in center. The piece cut out can be placed upon the pie and carefully 
lifted up to add the sauce. Bake a quarter of an hour and then 
serve in dish in which it is baked. Cooked cod may be used and 
any fish may be substituted for the cod. For a Codnsh Roll, chop 
fine cold cooked fish, pour over it drawn-butter or egg sauce, season 
to taste. Warm thoroughly, stirring to prevent burning ; make up 
in rolls or any other form and brown in oven ; or after prepared 
with sauce put in the frying-pan with a little oil, lard or drippings, 
and heat through and then shape into a roll and brown, turning it 
over and over to brown evenly. 

Cold cod is an admirable material for making pretty little din- 
ner and breakfast dishes. An excellent curry may be made by 
breaking up cold fish into flakes as neatly as possible. These should 
be fried in butter, with onions cut in jings and a suspicion of shal- 



244 FISH. 

lot, to a fine light brown color ; then take some butter rolled in flour, 
put into a stewpan, and let it take a light color ; add some good 
white stock or gravy, and a large spoonful curry powder made into 
paste Avith cream ; throw in flaked fish (not the onions), simmer for 
about ten minutes, and serve with rice in separate dish. Cold salt 
cod may be used. 

Cod Sounds. — These are the air or swimming bladders of the 
fish and should be well soaked in salted water, and thoroughly washed 
before dressing. They are considered a great delicacy, and may 
either be broiled, fried, or boiled ; if they are boiled, mix a little 
milk with the water. Cod Sounds luith Forcemeat. — Make a force- 
meat of twelve chopped oysters, three chopped anchovies, quarter 
pound bread-crumbs, tablespoon butter, two eggs ; seasoning of salt 
pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste. Mix the ingredients well to- 
gether. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for 
half an hour ; take out and let cool. Cover each with a layer of 
forcemeat, roll up in nice form, and skewer them. Rub over with 
butter, dredge with flour, and broil gently over the fire or bake in 
oven. 

Codiish a la Mode. — One cup codfish (if salt codfish is used 
freshen overnight), picked up fine, two cups mashed potatoes, one 
pint cream or milk, two eggs well-beaten, half cup butter, salt and 
pepper ; mix well, bake in baking-dish from twenty to twenty-five 
minutes. For Scalloped Codii,sli^ use bread-crumbs instead of pota- 
toes, moistening them with the cream or milk, putting in the dish 
in layers, alternating with the fish, and finishing with the crumbs; 
sprinkle bits of butter over the top and bake half an hour, or the 
mashed potatoes may be used also. 

CodHsTi and Eggs. — Take a pint each freshened and flaked cod- 
fish (or any cooked salt-fish) and milk or cream, two tablespoons 
flour, one of butter and six eggs. Mix the flour smooth in a little 
of the milk, putting the remainder on to boil ; stir in the flour, and 
add the fish, season with pepper (it should be salt enough) and 
cook ten minutes. Poach the eggs carefully. Turn the cooked fish 
over six slices or rounds of nicely toasted bread on a platter, and 
place the eggs on the fish. Garnish with points of toast and sprigs 
of parsley. A delicious dish. 

Codiish Fritters. — One pint finely picked salt codfish, two of 
whole raw peeled potatoes. Place together in cold water and boil 
till potatoes are done. Remove from fire and drain ; mash well, add 
tablespoon butter, two well-beaten eggs and a little white pepper. 
Mix with a wooden spoon and drop in hot cooking-oil or lard in 
spoonfuls as fritters. 



FISH. 245 

Boiled Haddock. — "Wash a three-pound haddock as soon as it 
comes from market, and someplace in a large pan containing plenty 
of cold water and a handful of salt for a short time. To cook, place 
in fish-kettle with cold water to cover, a gill of vinegar, tablespoon 
salt, a small root of parsley, six cloves and one sprig each of thyme 
and majoram. When the Avater boils fish will usually be done ; test 
by pulling out a fin, if it comes out easily and flesh of fish looks 
clear white it is done. Take up carefully without breaking, remove 
the skin by scraping gently so as to avoid tearing the fish. Serve 
with parsley or anchovy sauce. For small haddocks, fasten tails in 
their mouths and pin with a wooden toothpick and place in boiling 
water. Generally they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, 
or exceed ten or twelve inches in length and such are esteemed very 
delicate eating. Haddocks are at their best in November, December, 
June and July. Any fish may be cooked as above. 

Creamed HaddocJc. — Put a fish weighing five or six pounds on 
in cold water enough to cover, and which contains one tablespoon 
of salt. Cook gently twenty minutes ; then lift out of the water, but 
let it remain on the tray. Now carefully remove all the skin and 
the head ; then turn the fish over into the dish in which it is to be 
served (it should be stone china), and scrape off the skin from the 
other side. Pick out all the small bones ; they are down the whole 
length of the back, and a few in the lower part of the fish, near the 
tail, in rows like pins in a paper, and it will take but a few 
minutes to remove them. Then take out the back-bone, starting at 
the head and v/orking gently down toward the tail. Great care 
must be taken, that the fish may keep its shape. Cover with jore- 
pared cream as follows : Put one quart milk, two sprigs parsley and 
small sliced onion on to boil, reserving half a cup milk to mix with 
two tablespoons flour. When it boils, stir in the flour paste. Cook 
eight minutes. Season highly with salt and pepper, add tablespoon 
butter, strain on the fish, and bake about ten minutes, just to brown 
it a little. Garnish Avith parsley or little puff-paste cakes ; or, cover 
it with the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then 
slightly brown. A cusk or cod can be cooked in same Avay. 

Baked Halibut. — Use neck of halibut, the thin part just below 
the head, under the gills. Wash in cold Avater, and if not ready to 
use let it stand in cold water. Put butter, drippings, or pieces of 
salt pork in baking pan, lay in the fish and bake three-quarters of 
an hour, basting Avith the drippings, being careful not to let burn; 
place on hot platter AAuthout breaking the fish and serA^e Avith tomato 
sauce around it. To make the sauce for three pounds fish, take a 
pint canned or fresh tomatoes, cook and season AA'ith salt, pepper, 
and if Avished, a cloA'e of garlic, chopped very fine. 

Creoled Halibut. — Wash a thick square piece of fresh halibut, 
place in baking dish, season AAdth salt and pepper, and strcAV over it 



246 FISH. 

a finely chopped clove of garlic, about the size of a bean, and cover 
with a cup of fresh or canned tomatoes. Bake until flakes separate ; 
dish without breaking. 

Baked Herrings. — Scale and clean two pounds herrings care- 
fully without washing, unless it be absolutely necessary. Split 
down the back and remove backbones, sprinkle inside with a little 
pepper, salt, and pounded mace mixed together. If there are any 
roes enclose them in the fish and place latter in layers in a baking 
dish with six each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and two bay 
leaves. Cover with an equal mixture of vinegar and water or all 
vinegar, salt plentifully and tie a sheet of oiled paper over the dish, 
and bake one hour ; serve cold. Baked Salt Herring are prepared 
l)y soaking the herring overnight, roll in flour and butter, and place 
in a dripping pan with a very little water over them ; season with 
pepper, and after putting in oven baste frequently. 

' Herring Pudding. — First thoroughly wash and then soak two 
salt herrings in water overnight, or in sweet milk four or five hours, 
as the milk extracts the salt in half the time and even less. Pick in 
pieces and place in a quart baking dish a layer of fish with little 
bits of butter and then a layer of cold boiled potatoes sliced, and 
one of cooked rice, then fish, etc., with potatoes for last layer ; cover 
with a custard made of one pint milk, two eggs, seasoned with salt 
and pepper, and bake in oven half an hour ; rice may be omitted. 
Any salt or fresh fish (not soaking) may be used, and any cold 
cooked fish. 

Baked Mackerel. — Clean four medium-sized fish, the largest 
seldom weigh over two pounds, take out the roes and fill with a 
forcemeat made by mixing well together tablespoon each fresh but- 
ter, finely shredded suet and fat bacon, diced, small teaspoon minced 
savory herbs and parsley, a little finely minced onion, if liked, four 
tablespoons bread-crumbs, one egg, salt, nutmeg and cayenne to 
taste. Sew up slit, flour, and put in a baking dish, heads and tails 
alternately, put on bits of butter, pepper and salt, then the roes. 
Bake half an hour and serve with plain drawn butter or a maitre 
d^hotel sauce. 

Boiled Mackerel. — Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, 
and lay it in the kettle with sufficient water to cover, with quarter 
pound salt to each gallon water ; bring it gradually to boil, skim 
well, and simmer gently till done, — -7 |i>.i)i..,in.|.,, — 

when the tail splits and the eye >^^g^S^^^^^ ^^ ^L '^^N 
starts out, generally about ten min- s^-^ll^ '-^.»f^ ^-^^^^ }^^ 
utes ; dish on a hot napkin, heads •*"» ■ " ■ - "■^ JLi'^W s^ssHssr: 

and tails alternately, and garnish Boned Mackerel. 

with fennel. Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual 
accompaniments to boiled mackerel ; but caper or anchovy sauce is 



nsH. 247 

sometimes served with it. "When variety is desired, fillet the mack- 
erel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter ; send some of this 
besides, in a tureen. Or for P'lckled Mackerel, boil as above, place 
in dish, take half the liquor in which they were boiled, add as much 
vinegar, a few pepper-corns and a bay leaf or two, boil ten minutes 
and when cold, pour over the fish. 

Broiled Mackerel. — Mackerel should never be washed when 
intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry after 
taking out the gills and inside. Open the back, and put in a little 
pepper, salt, and oil ; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both 
sides, and also on the back. When sufficiently cooked, which will 
be in about ten minutes for a small mackerel, the flesh can be de- 
tached from the bone. Chop a little parsley, mix with butter, pep- 
per and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the 
back. Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a maitre d^hotel 
sauce in a tureen. 

Salt Mackerel. — Take mackerel from the salt, wash carefully, 
and lay them inside downward in a pan of cold water for twelve to 
fifteen hours ; change the water frequently, and if wanted sooner the 
fish may be soaked in sweet or sour milk — it will freshen in half the 
time. Scrape clean, and for Boiled Mackerel wrap in a cloth and 
simmer fifteen minutes; it will be almost done when the water 
reaches boiling point ; remove, lay on it two hard-boiled eggs sliced, 
pour drawn butter over and trim with parsley leaves. Boiling salt- 
fish hardens it. For Baked Mackerel., lay in shallow pan, the inside 
of fish down ; cover with water, and set it over a gentle fire or in an 
oven for twelve or fiften minutes ; then pour off water, turn fish, put 
bits of butter in pan, and over the fish, sprinkle with pepper and fry 
for five minutes, then serve. 

Baked Mullet. — Cut one carrot and two onions into thin slices ; 
add thyme, parsley and marjoram, with pepper and salt to taste, 
and three tablespoons salad oil ; mix well together, cover each mul- 
let with the mixture, and roll it up in a piece of white paper, pfrevi- 
ously oiled ; bake in a moderate oven half an hour, then carefully 
open the paper, place the fish neatly on a dish, ready to serve, and 
keep it warm. Melt a small piece butter, add a large pinch flour, 
a half cup good stock, and the vegetables, etc., the fish were cooked 
in. Let the sauce boil five minutes, add salt if wanted ; strain, 
skim, pour over the fish, and serve. 

Fried Pan-Fish. — Take perch, sun-fish, or any small fish ; 
place in pan with heads together, and fill spaces with smaller fish ; 
when ready to turn, put a plate over, drain ofT fat, invert pan, and 
the fish will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the lard back in 
the pan and when hot, slip back the fish, and when the other side is 



248 



FISH. 



brown, drain, turn on plate as before, and slide them on the platter 
to go to the table. This improves the appearance, if not the flavor. 
The heads should be left on, and the shape preserved as fully as 
possible. 

Baked Pickerel.- — Clean the fish thoroughly, wipe carefully, 
and lay in a dripping-pan with hot water enough to prevent scorch- 
ing; a perforated tin sheet or rack fitting closely in tlie pan, or hard- 
wood sticks laid crosswise, or several muffin-rings may be used to 
keep the fish from the bottom of the pan, and the fish may be made 
to form a circle by tying head and tail together ; cover with an in- 
verted pan and bake slowly, basting occasionally Avith butter and 
water. It will not need so frequent basting if covered. Remove 
pan fifteen or twenty minutes before done to brown nicely. When 
done have ready a cup sweet cream into which a few spoons hot 
water have been poured, stir in two tablespoons melted butter and 
a little chopped parsley, and heat in a vessel of boiling water ; add 
the gravy from the fish and boil up once. Place the fish in a hot 
dish, and pour over the sauce. Bake Salmon and Trout same way. 

Pike a la Godard. — The inside of a fine pike must be removed 
through the gills, and the fish put into scalding water in order that 
the skin may be stripped off easily ; also tie the head with fine 
twine. Wrap the fish in buttered paper, put it into a fish-kettle and 
cover with cold water. When pike is done, which can be told by 
touching it gently, drain it and garnish with cray-fish, which are 
simply the homely craw-fish, and quenelles of forcemeat made aa 




Pike a la Godard. 



follows : Take one teacup bread-crumbs, one teaspoon minced 
savory herbs, eight oysters, two anchovies (or omit the latter), two 
ounces suet ; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste ; six table- 
spoons of cream or milk, and two eggs. Beard and mince the oys- 
ters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and when properly pre- 
pared, pound all together in a mortar for some time ; for the more 
quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are. Now moisten 
with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pouiiding, adding a 
seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well blended 
together, mold into balls, roll in flour, and poach in boiling water 



PISH. 249 

to whicli a little salt has been added. If the quenelles are not firm 
enough, add the yolk of another egg, but omit the white, which only- 
makes them hollow and puffy inside, and whites may be omitted 
altogether. In the preparation of the quenelles the ingredients are 
to be well jyounded and seasoned, foi this is the secret of the French 
quenelles ; when they are wished very small, extreme delicacy will 
be necessary in their preparation. Their flavor may be varied by 
using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant or grouse, with the 
addition of mushroom, parsley, etc. Prepare the crayfish by throw- 
ing into boiling water, to which has been added a good seasoning of 
salt and a little vinegar. When done, which will be in fifteen minutes, 
take out and drain them. Let them cool, arrange around the fish 
as illustrated, alternately with the quenelles. This fish is also nice 
for garnishing boiled turke}'', boiled fowl, calf's head, and all kinds 
of boiled fish. It should be oftener employed for the delicious soup 
it makes than it at present is, and housewives should excite a de- 
mand for it among the fishmongers and a supply would soon be 
forthcoming. They are also nice as Potted Crayfish. Boil one hun- 
dred crayfish in salt and water ; pick out all the meat and pound it 
in a mortar to paste. Whilst pounding, add two tablespoons butter 
gradually, and mix in pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste. Put 
it in small pots, and pour over it clarified butter, carefully exclud- 
ing the air. 

Fried Red Snapper. — Cut a red snapper in pieces and fry 
brown. In a separate vessel, cut up and fry one onion and two 
cloves of garlic ; when brown, add two tablespoons flour, one pint 
prepared tomatoes, a little pepper, salt to taste, one tablespoon 
Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen whole cloves. Let this sim- 
mer half an hour, and stir in a tablespoon vinegar. Pour over the 
fried fish, and serve immediately. Or fry by immersing in hot fat 
as directed in Fried Fish. Red Snapper is also very nice boiled. 

Fried Roe. — Fish-spawn, especially the shad, is a delicacy great- 
ly prized by epicures. Wash and wipe^ fry twenty minutes in hot 
fat in a frying pan on both sides ; season, dish on a hot platter and 
place around it a row or double row of plain fried oysters. Put a bunch 
of parsley in the center, and half a lemon with the peel cut in saw 
teeth. Or first boil the roes (cutting them in two if large), in water 
seasoned wit]i vine2;ar, salt and pepper, ten minutes, take out and 
plunge them in slightly salted cold water, wipe dry again and let 
them lay a minute or two ; then loll in beaten :gg and bread-crumbs 
and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot lard or drippings. Serve 
with a sauce made of a cup drawn butter, a teaspoon anchovy sauce, 
]3iece of half a lemon, a .^.ttle minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne 
pepper. Send around in a gravy boat. Another nice way of frying 
and serving roe is to first wash any kind of fish-roe in salted cold 
water, and dry it on a towel ; then put into a frying-pan containing 



250 FISH. 

sufficient hot fat to prevent burning ; cover the pan ana Drown the 
roe, first on one side and then on the other ; when it is done lay it 
on brown paper to free it from fat, and then on a hot dish. Mean- 
time, peel half a dozen potatoes, cut in small balls with a vegetable 
scoop, or in pieces an inch square ; throw them into salted boiling 
water, and boil until a trussing needle or sharp fork will easily 
pierce them, but do not boil them soft ; as soon as they are tender 
drain them and lay them between the folds of a towel until the fish- 
roe is brown. Then pvit the potatoes into the hot fat where the roe 
was fried, set the pan over the fire and shake the potatoes about in 
it until they are broWn. Serve them under the fish-roe after dusting 
them over with pepper and salt. For Roe Croquettes take four 
medium-sized shad roes, two boiled potatoes, ounce each butter and 
flour, gill cold water, tablespoon chopped parsley, teaspoon each 
lemon juice and salt, half teaspoon pepper, two hard-boiled eggs, 
one raw egg and four tablespoons bread-crumbs. Boil the roes 
twenty minutes, take out, drain and placing in a bowl separate with 
a wooden spoon ; add the pepper, salt and chopped parsley ; rub 
through a sieve over the bowl the hard-boiled yolks and then the 
potatoes ; add the two hard-boiled whites, finely chopped, and the 
lemon juice. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and 
gill cold water by degrees, and when boiling pour it over the materials 
in the bowl and stir all thoroughly together. Make into small shapes 
resembling the shad-roe, beat the raw egg and dip these into it, roll 
in the bread-crumbs, and fry as doughnuts in hot fat, draining on a 
piece of kitchen paper over a sieve in oven to keep hot, and serve in 
a folded napkin. Or for the four shad roes take one pint cream, 
four tablespoons each corn-starch, and butter, one teaspoon salt, 
juice of two lemons, slight grating of nutmeg and a speck cayenne. 
Boil the roe as above, then drain and mash. Put the cream on to 
boil, mix the butter and corn-starch together, and stir into the boil- 
ing cream ; add the seasoning and roe ; boil up once, and set away 
to cool. Make into balls, or hape and fry as directed above. 

Baked Salmon. — Procure a middle cut of salmon ; butter both 
sides of a large sheet of writing paper and roll the fish in it, pinning 
the ends securely together. Put it in the baking pan and pour a 
half cup butter and water over it. Cover with another pan and bake 
in a moderatv oven one hour, lifting the cover occasionally to baste 
and see that the paper does not scorch. Make a sauce by beating a 
cup of cream over boiling water, thicken with a heajjing teaspoon 
corn-starch, add a tablespoon butter, and pepper, sal"^ and finely 
chopped parsley to taste. When the salmon is done, take off the 
paper, place on a hot platter, pour half the sauce slowly over it and 
send the rest to table in a boat. If cream cannot be had for the 
sauce use milk and a well beaten egg. 

Salmon Croquettes. — This dainty dish may l)e made of the 
fresh fish, boiled and cold, or of the canned salmon. The meat must 



FISH. 251 

be carefully separated from bones and skin, chopped fine and the 
juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon chopped parsley, a little salt and 
a pinch of cayenne added ; mix all together. Put two tablespoons 
best butter for each pint and a half chopped salmon into a sauce- 
pan with two teaspoons flour and cook together, stirring constantly. 
Add a little of the stock the fish was boiled in and a cup of cream. Boil 
for five or six minutes, stirring steadily, then mix in the chopped 
salmon, stir well together, and add and stir rapidly in yolks four 
eggs. Continue to stir briskly a few minutes longer, then pour the 
mixture out upon a large flat dish and set it in a cool place until 
perfectly cold. Then make in small rolls-or pear-shaped cones, using 
just enough flour to prevent the mixture from sticking to the hands. 
When all are done, dip them one at a time into eggs beaten up with 
a little cream, and roll them in fresUy-made bread-crumbs. Let 
them rest for an hour, then fry them to a delicate brown color in 
plenty of boiling hot lard. Or, mix with three-fourths pint shred 
salmon, five tablespoons bread-crumbs; melt one and one-half table- 
spoons butter and pour over the mixture, adding half teaspoon each 
salt and pepper and saltspoon each grated nutmeg and powdered 
mace ; beat all together and add juice of half a lemon, teaspoon 
anchovy sauce and two beaten eggs, stirring well ; shape and fry as 
above. 

Salmon Fritters. — Remove skin and bone from a pound canned 
salmon, mince and add an equal quantity potato that has been 
mashed and mixed with butter and cream ; work the mixture into 
little cakes and fry in a little butter. 

Boiled Salmon. — Scale and clean fish, and be particular that 
no blood is left inside ; lay in fish-kettle with sufficient hot water, 
to cover (hot is used to better preserve the color) adding salt in the 
proportion of six tablespoons to a gallon water. Bring it quickly to 
a boil, take off scum, and let simmer gently till the fish is done, 
W'hich will be when the meat separates easily from the bone. Drain 
it, and if not wanted for a few minutes, keep warm by means of 
warm cloths laid over it. Serve on a hot napkin, garnish with cut 
lemon and parsley, and send lobster, oyster, shrimp or hollandaise 
sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of dressed 
cucumber usually accompanies this fish, and a little lemon-juice 
squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable 
addition. Peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially 
adapted to be served with salmon. Boiled is the best way of cook- 
ing salmon. For a more fancy dish arrange in the form of a letter 
S, as follows : Thread a trussing-needle 
with some twine ; tie the end of the string 
around the head, fastening it tight ; then 
pass the needle through the center part of -^ 
the body, draw the string tight, and fasten 
it around the tail. T]:o fish will assume the desired form. Salmon 




252 FISH. 

prepared thus is very nice served cold at evening parties with a 
mayonnaise sauce poured over. It may then be mounted on a 
pedestal which may be carved with a sharp knife in any form de- 
sired from bread tAVO or three days old, fried a nice brown in deep 
lard, or made of wood covered with white paper brushed over with 
aspic jelly ; the salmon should then also be decorated with bits 
of aspic jelly in squares or other forms. Cauliflower blossoms and 
sliced or quartered hard-boiled eggs make a very pretty and appro- 
priate decoration when served with the mayonnaise sauce. 

Broiled Salmon Outlets. — Cut slices an inch thick, and season 
with pepper and salt ; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice 
on a separate piece, with the ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear 
fire, and serve with anchovy or caper sauce. When higher season- 
ing is liked, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice. 

JEscalloped Salmon. — Roll fine one quart crackers, season with 
salt and pepper and mix with one can salmon ; put in a skillet and 
add milk (or milk and water) to moisten well, and some bits of but- 
ter. Cover and steam thoroughly. 

Fried Salmon Steaks. — Cut slices an inch thick from the mid- 
dle of the fish, wipe dry and sprinkle on a little salt, then dip in egg 
and cracker dust and fry in hot salad oil or butter, turning to brown 
both sides. Drain and serve on hot platter lined with clean paper 
fringed at the ends ; garnish with parsley. 

Canned Sainton. — The California canned salmon is nice served 
cold with any of the fish sauces ; mix together yolks of three eggs, 
half cup each cream and vinegar, tAvo teaspoons broAvn sugar, salt, 
pepper, and celery-seed to taste ; boil thick like custard and pour 
over one can salmon. For a breakfast dish, it may be heated, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and served on slices of toast, with 
milk thickened with flour and butter poured over it. 

Crimped Salmon. — Take a middle cut of fresh salmon and cut 
in slices tAA^o or three inches thick. Lay in cold salted water one 
hour ; then place in boiling salted water, skim and simmer gently 
tAventy minutes, if very thick slices. Garnish as in boiled salmon 
and serve with same sauce. 

Salmon Pudding. — Chop a can of preserved salmon or an 
equal amount of cold, either roast or boiled, and rub it in a mortar, 
or in a boAvl with the back of a spoon, adding four tablespoons melt- 
ed — not hot — butter, until it is a smooth paste. Beat a half cup fine 
bread-crumbs Avith four eggs and season Avith salt, pepper and minced 
parsley, and mix all together. Put into a buttered pudding mold 
and boil or steam one hour. Make a sauce Avith one cup milk 
thickened with tablespoon corn-starch, the liquor from the canned "^ 



FISH. 253 

salmon, and tablespoon butter, or double the quantity of butter when 
the liquor is not used, teaspoon anchovy, mushroom or tomato cat- 
sup, a pinch of mace or cayenne, and a beaten egg stirred in last 
very carefully. Boil one minute, and when the salmon is turned 
from the mold pour the sauce over it. Cut in slices at table. A 
very nice supper dish. 

Steioed, Salmon. — Stew a can of salmon in the liquor, (or cold, 
boiled or roast in a very little water), slightly salted, ten minutes. 
Have ready in a large saucepan a cup drawn butter thickened with rice- 
flour or corn-starch. Season with cayenne and salt to taste and stir 
in carefully two beaten eggs, then the salmon. Let it come to a 
gentle boil, add two hard-boiled eggs and some capers or green 
pickles, all chopped fme, and turn into a covered deep dish. Or add 
the hard-boiled eggs and caperr^ to the stewed salmon, with a table- 
spoon butter^ toss up lightly with a fork, pepper slightly, and heap 
in the center of a hot flat dish, then pour the boiling sauce over all. 
Very nice either way. 

Sardines. — These are small fish of the herring family and come 
to us in half pound and pound tin boxes, preserved in oil, averaging 
from a dozen to twenty-four fish. They are an excellent relish and 
form a wholesome and agreeable addition to a breakfast, luncheon, 
or tea. Take out carefully, whole if possible, place on platter and 
garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, serving a slice with the 
fish. The American Sardines, or shrimps, are used but are larger and 
not considered as delicate. For Fried Sardines, procure largest- 
sized sardines, remove from oil, place on dish, and let drain a few 
minutes ; dip fish in well-beaten egg, and roll in cracker crumbs ; 
fry brown as fritters or in a little butter or oil ; mix oil left in box 
with cracker-crumbs, make in very small cakes and fry and use as a 
garnish for the fish, alternated with sprigs of parsley. Serve hot. 
If one wishes .U'>"ne-Made Sardines can be made : Clean 
small fish, shrimps are nice, salt slightly and let stand overnight ; in 
the morning drain. Fry in oil, just enough to cook them, then pack 
in tin cans or boxes, or glass cans, putting them in as closely as pos- 
sible. Cover with oil, and, if in boxes, solder the tops on ; if bottles, 
screw the covers on tight. Put cans in a kettle of cold water, and 
bring to a boil as quickly as possible. Let boil about an hour and 
a quarter, then punch a small hole in tin cans to let out the gas, and 
seal again immediately. If in glass, unscrew the top and screw it 
on again as soon as possible. Let stand awhile before using. A 
favorite Parisian dish is made of sardines carefully skinned and 
boned, laid on slices of buttered toast, and then put into the oven, 
with buttered paper over them, to get hot. Before serving, lemon 
juioe is sjDrinkled over, 

BaJced Shad. — Open and clean fish, cut off head (or not as pre- 
ferred), cut out backbonej from the head to within two inches of the 



254 FISH. 

tail, and fill with the following mixture : Soak stale bread in water, 
squeeze dry ; cut a large onion in pieces, fry in butter, chop fine, 
add bread, t^yo ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and a little finely 
chopped onion, parsley or sage ; heat thoroughly, and when taken 
from the fire, add two yolks of eggs well-beaten ; stuff, and, when 
full, sew or wind the fish several times with tape, place in baking- 
pan and cover the bottom of pan with water, adding a little butter, 
and baste often. When done serve with the following sauce : Re- 
duce the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste, add two 
table-spoons olive oil, half teaspoon mustard, and pepper and 
vinegar to taste. Planked Shad is very delicious, ^ Take a heavy 
oak plank 18x24 inches in size, and about an inch thick. The shad 
must be a perfectly fresh, solid and firm roe shad ; wash, wipe, salt 
on both sides and lay on board, skin side down ; put the roes in 
their places, and bake from thirty to forty minutes. If it does not 
brown easily, rub butter over when partly done. The smoking of 
the wood in the oven adds to the flavor. 

Baked Sheeps-Jiead. — When ready for cooking, salt and pepper 
well, gash the sides in three or four places, mince four onions fine, 
add one pint bread-crumbs, a little finely minced fat meat, yolks of 
two eggs ; blend all together ; season with a little cayenne pepper, 
salt and thyme ; with this stuff the fish and fill gashes on the out- 
side ; sprinkle over with flour and black pepper ; bake slowly in a 
large pan with one quart hot water two hours. Serve with any 
sauce preferred. Sardine Sauce is a capital fish sauce. For this 
bone half a dozen large sardines, make an ordinary sauce of butter 
and gravy, and in this boil the bones, together with a minced shalot, 
lemon peel, a bay leaf, and some pepper, and either nutmeg or 
mace. Boil fifteen minutes, or until all the several flavors have been 
obtained ; then strain the sauce and add to it the sardines, chopped 
email. 

Baked Smelts. — Wash, and dry twelve smelts thoroughly in a 
cloth, and arrange them nicely in a fiat baking-dish. ^ Cover with fine 
bread-crumbs, and little pieces of butter. Season with salt, cayenne, 
and two blades pounded mace, and bake for fifteen minutes. Just 
before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried 
parsley and cut lemon. For Fried Smeltsilie fish should be very fresh, 
and not washed more than is necessary. Dry them in a cloth, lightly 
flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread-crumbs, 
and fry in hot lard as doughnuts to nice pale brown ; be careful 

rt not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their 

beauty will be spoiled. Dry them before the fire ona 
drainer, and serve at once (or the crispness and flavor will 
be lost, ) with plain melted butter. Or place on skewers 
with thin slices of bacon between the fish ; fry in hot 

••— *^©-o lard or oil as above, serving one skewerful, skewer and 
all, to each person, garnishing with lemon slices. Use either silver 




FISH. 255 

plated or polished wire skewers. They are about three inches long. 

Fried Filleted Soles. — S'oles for filleting s^hould be large, as the 
flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less 
waste. Skin and wash the fish, raise the meat carefully from 
the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces. The more usual 
way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and 
either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through 
them. Brush over with egg, and cover with bread-crumbs ; fry as 
doughnuts. Lift them out carefully, and lay them before the fire on 
a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the fat ; or place a sheet 
of kitchen paper in a dripping pan ; place the fillets on that and 
set in oven a moment or two. Particular attention should be paid 
to this, as nothing is more disagreeable than greasy fish. Serve 
hot and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a pretty 
dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing 
soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. Instead 
of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged 
in the shape of a pyramid on the dish. Any fish may be filleted 
as above. 

Baked Sturgeon. — A piece of sturgeon weighing five or six 
pounds is enough for a handsome dish ; skin and put in salted 
water and parboil for half an hour to remove superfluous oil ; pre- 
pare a dressing of bread-crumbs, fine bits of fat salt pork, sweet 
herbs and butter ; gash upper end of fish quite deeply and rub this 
forcemeat in well ; place in baking dish on trivet with a little hot 
water to prevent burning and bake an hour. Serve with a drawn 
butter sauce in which has been stirred a tablespoon caper sauce and 
one of walnut catsup or anchovy sauce. 

Sturgeon Steaks. — Skin steaks carefully and place in cold salted 
ivater for an hour to remove oily taste ; wipe dry, broil over hot 
coals on a buttered gridiron. When done serve on hot platter 
seasoned with pepper and butter, and salt if needed, and garnish 
with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve the latter with the fish. 
Make a sauce by browning tablespoon butter in pan, then add a 
tablespoon browned flour first wet with a little cold water and then 
stirred into a half teacup boiling water, season and add a teaspoon 
Worcestershire or anchovy sauce and juice of a lemon ; when it boils 
serve in gravy boat with the steaks. 

Baked Trout. — Scale and scrape clean a seven-pound Lake 
Superior trout, but do not cut off" head or tail ; wash inside quickly 
with cold water and rub well with salt and pepper if wished ; then 
score the top (back) offish by making gashes two and a half inches 
long, an inch deep and three inches apart ; now stufi" with a rather 
dry dressing made by cutting off crusts from four -or five slices bread, 



256 FISH. 

put in pan, pour over a very little boiling water, cover tightly 
with a cloth, and when soft add tablespoon butter, pepper, salt, an egg 
and the bread from which the crusts were cut. Mix well and add a 
little seasoning of sage, marjoram, or any mixed seasoning, using 
only a very small pinch ; sew up and tie securely in a circle by 
placing a string around the back of head under the gills and then 
around the first score above the tail, and putting the tail in the 
mouth ; cutting a few small gashes in the side offish next to the in- 
side of circle facilitates the shaping. Beat two eggs and spread 
over fish, having first placed it on a large tin or earthen plate, 
putting egg batter well inside the gashes, sprinkle with finely rolled 
cracker crumbs and put a little butter in each gash and more on 
top, unless a very fat fish. Place in dripping pan on the plate or 
trivet in a moderately hot oven and add one quart boiling water 
and tablespoon salt ; in ten minutes baste well and baste every ten 
minutes till fish is done (in two hours). Bake slowly first hour, 
add more water if needed, then increase heat third half hour so that 
for last half hour the oven is very hot, thus nicely browning the 
fish. The basting every ten minutes is very important and must 
be done to avoid a dried-up, taste- 
less fish. Slip from plate to hot 
platter and serve at once, garnished 
with parsley. The marinade given 
in preface may be used in place of 
part of the water, and gives a fine Fish Knife and Fork. 

flavor. To serve easily carve with a fish knife and^ fork. Treat a 
white fish as above and a delicious Baked White Fish will result. 

Brook Trout. — Wash and drain in a colander a few minutes, 
split nearly to the tail, flour nicely, salt, and put in pan, which 
should be hot but not burning ; throw in a little salt to prevenl 
sticking, and do not turn until brown enough for the table. The 
general defect in cooking trout Avhen fried, is over cooking. They 
should never be done to a crisp. Fry also in a little butter or oil 
and omit the flour, frying them perfectly j)lain. For Broiled Trotit 
m-ap in a piece of glazed paper, which should be well buttered ; 
sprinkle a very little salt and pepper on them ; put them in a 
double broiler and turn the broiler over from side to side. Serve 
with lemon juice over them. Boiled Trout is better than fried or 
broiled. Put trout on a napkin, sprinkle with salt, fold together 
and put in boiling salted water. If they are of medium size will bo 
cooked in two or three minutes. When done place on a clean 
napkin on a hot platter and serve with fresh butter and boiled 
potatoes. For Baked Trout, dry the fish, do not split then« ; lay 
on baking dish, add a little butter, pepper and salt. Serve as soon 
as done, which will be in fifteen or twenty minutes. 




FBITTEIIS A-\D CROQUETTES. 25r 



FRITTERS AlSrr> CROQUETTES. 



Make the fritter batter quickly and beat thoroughly until 
smooth. A good rule is two eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately, half pint milk, one level teaspoon salt, and pint flour, a 
tablespoon American cooking oil, or butter, or salad oil, and a 
seasoning of cinnamon or nutmeg may be added if wished ; if the 
batter is for fish or meat fritters add a saltspoon white pepper and a 
dash of cayenne. Water may be used instead of milk, with a table- 
spoon or two of lemon juice if liked, and some add the wetting 
gradually. The batter for fritters should be just thick enough to 
drop, not run, from the spoon — do not make too stiff — and should 
be made an hour before using. Some claim it is better to stand a 
day, as the grains of flour swell by standing after being moistened 
and thus become lighter. Add the whites of eggs — and when 
baking powder is used, that also — -just hefore frying. Less eggs 
are needed with baking powder, using one egg in the above batter 
with a heaping teaspoon baking powder or teaspoon cream tartar 
and half teaspoon soda. The fritters are much nicer with the eggs, 
and without the rising powders, but it is convenient to use the 
latter when p eparing for immediate use. Some use cracker dust 
instead of floui , thinking it makes the batter lighter. Arrowroot 
may be used to thicken batters, sauces, etc., making the mixture 
much more delicate, and with it butter can be omitted. Its thick- 
ening property is i,bout three times that of flour. It is better not to 
use sugar in the batter, as it tends to make it heavy, but sprinkle it 
over the fritters in the dish when just ready to serve, though in 
17 



258 FRITTEES AND CROQUETTES. 

making fruit fritters some stir in a little sugar. Fruit fritters are 
made by chopping any kind of fresh or canned fruit fine and mixing 
it with batter, or by dipping it whole, halved, quartered or sliced 
into the batter, using a skewer or fork for this purpose, and taking 
a pint or less of any kind of fruit for the above quantity of batter. 
The fruit may be improved in flavor by sprinkling sugar and grated 
lemon or orange peel over it, and allowing it to remain two or 
three hours, after which drain and dip in the batter as above ; or, 
marinade the fruit in a thin orange or lemon syrup. To marinade 
anything is to leave it in a composition long enough to absorb the 
flavor — in this case, from one to two hours. Pork fritters are made 
by dipping thin bits of breakfast bacon or fat pork in the batter. 
The common practice is to fry fritters in lard, but the American 
cooking oil is much superior and no more expensive. It never 
burns, can be used again and again, and keeps clear and perfectly 
sweet. Clarified drippings (see index), or half drippings and half 
Jard, is much better than all lard. Have the fat in which to cook 
them nice and sweet, and heat slowly. Clarified fat boils at about 
five hundred degrees — more than double the heat of boiling water — 
and fat actually boiling will burn to a cinder anything that is 
dropped into it. The proper cooking heat is three hundred and 
seventy-five degrees, and is indicated by a blue smoke arising from 
the surface of the fat. When this point is reached, the fat may be 
held at that degree of heat, and prevented from burning by drop- 
ping into it a peeled potato or a piece of hard bread, which furnishes 
something for the fat to act up ^n. Generally the cold batter lowers 
the tempera,ture of the fat sufficiently to keep it at proper cooking 
heat. The heat may be tested by dropping in a teaspoon of the 
batter ; if the temperature is right it will quickly rise in a light ball 
with a splutter, and soon brown ; drop the batter in by spoonfuls^ 
being careful not to crowd, and fry to a golden-brown, turning with 
a wire spoon to brown both sides ; if the fat is of the right heat the 
fritters will be done in from three to five minutes and be light and 
delicious ; if they should begin to brown too much check the heat 
at once ; take up carefully the moment they are done, with a wire 
spoon or skimmer, drain in a hot colander, or in a pan with brown 
kitchen paper or blotting paper in the bottom to absorb the fat, set 
in oven to keep hot ; some drain on an inverted sieve, placing paper 
both under and over the fritters. Sift powdered sugar over them, 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 259 

some use a little nutmeg or cinnamon also, and serve hot on a clean 
napkin to absorb any remains of fat ; or line the dish with tissue 
paper fringed at the ends ; paper napkins are nice for this purpose. 
To keep hot, cover with a napkin, never with a dish-cover ; the 
former absorbs the steam that arises, which would otherwise gather 
on the inside of the cover, and dropping back on the fritters would 
make them soggy and heavy. A Fritter Doily, made of butchers' 
linen in the shape of a maltese cross, with any pretty design worked 
in the corners, is a new and happy conceit, as the fritters may be 
served upon it and the four ends be brought up to cover them. 
Always serve at once (frying as wanted) with syrup or honey, 
or any sweet sauce preferred, for which see Puddings. 

In all the recipes that follow, the mode of testing the fat and 
frying is the same as given above, A tablespoon of batter makes a 
fritter of the usual size, a teaspoon about the size of an oyster. 

Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, and 
eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as many of 
the messes recommended as food for dyspeptics 



Apple Fritters. — Make a batter in proportion of one cup sweet 
milk to two cups flour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder, two eggs 
beaten separately, one tablespoon sugar, and saltspoon salt ; heat 
the milk a little more than milk-warm, add slowly to the beaten 
yolks and sugar, then add flour and whites of eggs ; stir all together 
and throw in thin snces of good sour apples, dipping the batter up 
over them ; drop in lard in large spoonfuls with piece of apple in 
each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup or a nice 
syrup made of sugar. Another way of making is to beat three eggs 
very lightly, stir in one teaspoon salt, one-half cup sugar, one pint 
milk, two cups chopped apple and two cups flour. Flavor with 
nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry as directed in preface ; sift 
sugar over them and serve. Or, peel, steam and pulp six good 
sized apples, add juice two lemons, four well-beaten eggs, sugar to 
taste and a little cream. Mix thoroughly, roll into balls with 
enough cracker dust or fine bread-crumbs to keep in shape and fry 
as above. Serve strewn with powdered sugar. A very nice way of 
preparing the apples is to pare and cut them across in slices about 
an inch thick, then with the corer remove the core from each slice, 
leaving a round opening in the center. Dip into the batter and fry 
each slice separately, lay them in a dish in a circle overlapping one 
Another, sprinkle with sugar, and serve with a sweet sauce in the 



260 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

center. Orange Fritters are prepared as above, and make a deli- 
cious desert. 

Apricot Fritters.— CvA apricots in quarters, remove skins care- 
fully and soak for an hour in orange syrup, drain on a sieve and 
dip each piece into this batter : Mix with one and one-half pints 
flour two tablespoons butter, two yolks of eggs and a little salt ; stir 
in slowly and a little at a time a tablespoon more than a pint luke- 
warm water, and work the batter with a wooden spoon until it looks 
creamy, then add well-whipped whites of three eggs. Fry a golden 
brown color, place in a dish, sift powdered sugar over, and send to 
table with a custard poured around them, dipping a spoonful over 
each fritter in serving. Fritters may be prepared as above with any 
stoned fruit. 

Banana Fritters.— Owe cup flour, yolks of two eggs, pinch of 
salt, two tablespoons melted lard or butter, water to make a batter 
as above. Add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and stir in lightly 
three or four bananas cut in slices. Dip with a spoon and fry as 
directed in preface. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with 
whipped or plain sweetened cream. This will make a dessert for 
eight persons. 

Berry Fritters. — One and a half pints flour, gill cream, or 
tablespoon melted butter, pint milk, six eggs, teaspoon salt ; mix 
well and add either blackberries, currants, gooseberries or rasp- 
berries and fry by spoonfuls. Eat with a hard sauce. 

Brain Fritters. — Beat one egg and a half cup sweet milk with 
sufficient flour to make a thick batter, seasoning with salt and 
pepper to taste. Beat well and stir in beef or porlr brains. Drop 
by spoo.ifuls, and fry in hot fat. Considered by some superior to 
oysters cooked in same way. 

CaTce Fritters. — TaKe six or eight stale small sponge cakes and 
roll or pound fine ; pour a cup boiling hot cream over them and stir 
in tablespoon corn starch wet with a little cold milk ; cover for half 
an hour, then beat until cold and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten 
light and strained, the whipped whites, then a quarter pound cur- 
rants thickly dredged with flour. Beat all well together. Drop 
from tablespoon, fry quickly and serve hot with any nice sauce. Or, 
make a sponge-cake batter, drop by teaspoonfuls and fry as above. 
Serve for dessert with a hot sauce. 

Celery Fritters.— Boil thick but tender stalks of celery in 
salted water ; when done dry on a cloth, cut in equal lengths about 
one and a half inches ; fry in batter to a golden color, sprinkling 
fine salt well over, and serve. If wanted extra nice cut a half dozen 
stalks tender, well blanched celery into pieces an inch or two long 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 261 

and boil in salted water until tender. While boiling make a batter 
as follows : Mix smooth the yolk of a raw egg and a tablespoon 
salad oil ; add a little salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, sift in a half 
pint flour and add water to make a batter that will drop from spoon. 
Just before using add whipped whites of two eggs. Dip the cooked 
celery in this and fry a delicate brown in hot fat ; drain and serve 
at once. 

Clam Frittefs. — Wash one dozen hard or soft shell clams, 
divide soft and hard parts of each clam, boil the latter in water half 
an hour, or till tender, drain, chop fine and add the water in which 
they were cooked, also the soft parts, yolks of two well-beaten eggs, 
saltspoon salt, dash or two of cayenne, half pint milk, whites of 
eggs, and flour so that batter will drop from spoon ; fry as above. 
Or, make a batter with juice, an equal quantity of sweet milk, four 
eggs to each pint of liquid, and flour sufficient to stiffen ; add 
chopped raw clams, or dip in the whole clam and fry. 

Com Fritters. — To one quart grated raw sweet corn, (fifteen 
common-sized ears) add 3'olks of three eggs and scant three-iourths 
pint cracker-crumbs ; if corn is not juicy use less, making batter only 
stiff enough to drop from spoon. Beat very thoroughly, season 
with salt and pepper, add well-frothed whites, and drop with tea- 
spoon and fry ; turn out and drain as directed. Serve hot, using 
tne fritter doily in dish, or- place an ordinary napkin under and 
over. Some add to this batter a piece of salt codfish, size of a silver 
dollar, shredded very fine, as this gives the peculiar oyster taste, 
and hence the name sometimes given them of Corn Oysters. Above 
proportions make six dozen fritters, and are very easily made. Or, 
for Dried Corn Fritters., grate corn as above and dry on plates so 
as to preserve all the juice, as in recipe for drying corn, or better on 
the evaporator hereafter described. To make, soak the grated corn 
overnight in water or milk, and add eggs and crackers as above. 
These are as delicious as when made from raw corn, and well repay 
the trouble of drying the corn. 

Corn Meal Fritters. — Beat and strain the yolks of four eggs ; 
add one tablespoon each sugar and melted butter, one teaspoon 
salt, one-half teaspoon soda dissolved in hot water, a pint each milk 
and best corn meal, (sugar may be omitted). Beat hard five 
minutes and stir in the whipped whites of the eggs and a half cup 
flour into which a teaspoon cream tartar has been sifted. Beat again 
thoroughly, adding more milk if necessary to make it drop from the 
spoon ; fry, drain and serve at once with a hard sauce. 

Cream Fritters. — ^^Vhip the whites of five eggs ana stir into 
one cup cream, add two full cups flour, a saltspoon nutmeg, 
a pinch of salt, and teaspoon baking powder. Beat hard two 



202 PEITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 



minutes, fry by spoonfuls, drain and serve hot on napkin. Eat with 
jelly sauce. 

Currant Fritters. — Put a half pint milk into a bowl with two 
tablespoons flour, which should previously be rubbed smooth with 
a little cold milk ; stir well together and add four well-beaten eggs, 
three tablespoons each boiled rice, and fresh or dried currants, 
sugar and nutmeg to taste. Beat the mixture a few minutes, and if 
not thick enough add a little more boiled rice ; fry by spoonfuls a 
nice brown, pile on a white napkin, strew sifted sugar over and 
serve very hot with a garnish of sliced lemon. 

Egg Plant Fritters.— Tal^e a large-sized egg plant, leave on 
stem and skin and boil in porcelain kettle until very soft, just so 
that it can be taken out with the aid of a fork or spoon ; take off all 
the skin and mash very fine in an earthen bowl. When cold add 
teaspoon salt, plenty of pepper, two tablespoons flour, a half cup 
cream or milk and three eggs. Have fat hot, drop in batter as for 
any fritters and brown nicely on each side. 

Grape Fritters. — Cup flour, yolks of two eggs, two tablespoons 
salad oil, pinch each spice and salt, and enough cold water to make a 
batter about like sponge cake. When mixed smoothly add whites 
of eggs beaten to stiff" froth. Dip little clusters of grapes in the 
batter and fry in smoking hot fat. Take up, drain, dust with pow- 
dered sugar, and serve either hot or cold as a dessert. 

Hominy Fritters. — Mix well one pint boiled hominy, one gill 
cream, two tablespoons corn starch, two eggs, half teaspoon baking 
powder, saltspoon salt. If too stiff* add a little more cream or milk. 
Fry, drain and dust as above, and serve with any sauce liked. 

Italian Fritters. — With a wooden spatula stir rapidly into 
one pound sifted flour one and a half pints boiling water. Add 
three or four eggs, one at a time, and beat well in, thus forming a 
very delicate batter paste. Press this through a syringe or confec- 
tioners' bag into hot lard, and as soon as a bright yellow color they 
are done. Drain in colander, pile on a dish and powder plenti- 
fully with fine sugar. This is a favorite dish in Italy, called there 
"cinci." May be served with a sauce if liked. 

Lemon Fritters. — Three eggs, one pint flour, three-fourths tea- 
cup powdered sugar ; beat the yolks well, add flour and enough milk 
— about a gill — to make a stiff batter ; beat the whites stiff with the 
sugar, the juice of a lemon and some of the yellow peel grated off", 
or teaspoon extract of lemon, and beat into the batter just before 
frying. 

Lobster Fritters. — Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water 
with a half cup salt, and boil twenty-five minutes; when cold 



FRITTERS AXD CROQUETTES. 263 

remove the meat and fat and cut into small slices ; put into a sauce- 
pan a tablespoon each butter and flour, a cup cream, little celery, 
salt, thyme, white pepper, and a saltspoon parsley ; let boil two 
minutes and add yolks four eggs and the lobster ; mix and set back 
to simmer five minutes ; pour it out on a well greased dish and set 
away to get firm by cooling ; cut into slices, dip into fritter batter, 
(see preface) and fry as directed. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs 
of parsley, quite dry, fried in lard fifteen seconds. 

Mince Meat Fritters. — Mix half pound (about one pint) mince 
meat, four tablespoons bread-crumbs or one tablespoon flour, two 
eggs and juice of half a lemon ; beat well together and fry as 
directed. 

Nutmeg Fritters. — One cup sugar, butter size of hickory nut, 
one and a half cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda and a little nut- 
meg. Stir in flour till thick as fruit cake ; drop a teaspoon at a 
time in hot fat. Very nice for breakfast with coffee. 

Orange Fritters. — Make a nice light batter with one pint flour, 
tablespoon butter, half saltspoon salt, two eggs and sufiicient milk 
to make it proper consistency ; peel oranges, remove as much of the 
white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces 
without breaking the thin skin, Unless necessary to remove pips ; 
dip each piece of orange in the batter, drop in hot fat, and fry a del- 
icate brown. Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar. Or, cut 
oranges in slices across, take out all seeds, dip slices in batter, fry 
and serve as above. 

Oyster Fritters. — Drain one dozen oysters and dry thoroughly 
in a towel ; make a batter of tAvo cups flour, yolk of one egg, table- 
spoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, dust of cayenne, well-beaten white, 
chopped oysters, and sufiicient oyster liquor to make a batter thick 
enough to drop from spoon. Or, leave oysters whole and dip 
singly in batter, using a fork or skewer, and fry. For latter way 
have batter thicker than if chopped oysters are used. One cup 
milk may be substituted for the liquor, and some add half teaspoon 
lemon juice. 

Parsnip Fritters. — One cup dry mashed parsnip, tablespoon 
each butter and flour, an egg, and salt and pepper. Stir all together ; 
drop by spoonfuls and fry as directed. 

Peach Fritters. — (With yeast.) Sift a quart flour into bowl, 
add a cup milk and half cup yeast, and set in warm place to rise. 
This will take five or six hours. Then beat four eggs very light, 
with two tablespoons each sugar and butter and a little salt ; mix 
with the risen dough and beat thoroughly with wooden spoon. 
Knead with the hands ; pull off bits of dough about the size of an 



264 FKITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

egg, flatten each and put in the center a peach, from which the 
stone has been taken through a slit in the side ; enclose it in the 
dough, make into a roll and set in order upon a floured pan for 
second rising. The balls must not touch and should be light in an 
hour. Have ready a large kettle or saucepan of hot lard, drop in 
the balls and fry more slowly than fritters made in the usual way. 
Drain on hot white paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve hot 
with rich sauce. These fritters may b© made of canned peaches 
or apricots drained and wiped dry. 

Pineapple Fritters. — Pare a pineapple with as little waste as 
possible and cut into rather thin slices ; soak the slices four hours 
in a lemon syrup, dip into the fritter batter given in preface and fry. 
Serve quickly, strewn with sifted sugar. A very elegant dish. 

Potato Fritters. — Boil two potatoes, and beat up lightly with a 
fork — do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat 
yolks of four eggs well, add two tablespoons each cream and orange 
juice, two-thirds tablespoon lemon juice and half teaspoon grated 
nutmeg and beat all together for at least twenty minutes, or until 
the batter is extremely light ; then add well frothed whites of three 
eggs and fry as directed. Serve with the following hot sauce : Four 
tablespoons orange juice and half pint boiling water, mixed with the 
strained juice of a lemon, warmed together and sweetened with white 
sugar. Or scoop out the insides of four nicely baked potatoes and 
make as above, using four tablespoons cream and adding two of 
powdered sugar ; flavor with juice of a lemon and half the grated 
peel, or a half teaspoon vanilla. 

Queen Fritters. — Put three heaping tablespoons flour into a 
bowl and pour over it enough boiling water to make a stiff paste, 
stirring and beating well to prevent lumps. Let cool, break into it 
(without beating) yolks of four eggs and whites of two, and stir and 
beat all well together ; drop by dessertspoonfuls, and fry a light 
brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve 
on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in be- 
tween the fritters. Excellent for a hasty addition to dinner, when 
a guest appears unexpectedly ; easily and quickly made, and always 
a favorite. 

Rice Fritters. — Boil one cup rice in one pint milk until soft ; 
add yolks of three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, two tablespoons 
each butter and flour ; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped 
to a stifl" froth ; drop in spoonfuls and fry a light brown. Serve 
with sweetened cream or lemon sauce. To make nice fritters with 
marmalade cook seven tablespoons rice in a quart milk, with six 
tablespoons sugar and one of butter, over a slow fire until perfectly 
tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour ; then strain 



FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 265 

away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it six table- 
spoons orange marjnalade and four well-beaten eggs ; stir over the 
fire until the eggs are set ; then spread mixture about half an inch 
thick, or rather thicker, on plate or board. When perfectly cold, 
cut into long strips, dip in batter and fry a nice brown. Dish on a 
white doily, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly. Another 
excellent way is to soak a cup rice, three hours in enough warm 
water to cover well ; then put it into a farina-kettle, set in an outer 
vessel of hot water, and simmer until dry. Add two cups milk and 
cook until it is all absorbed. Stir in one tablespoon butter and take 
from fire. Beat three eggs very light with three tablespoons sugar, 
and when the mixture is cold stir them in with a flavoring of nut- 
meg and a little salt. Make into round flat cakes. Place in the 
middle of each two or three raisins which have been "plumped" in 
boiling water, roll the cake into a ball enclosing the raisins, flour 
well and fry in hot fat. Serve on a napkin, with sugar and cinna- 
mon sifted over. Eat with sweetened cream, hot or cold. Or scald 
nine tablespoons rice and boil it in just enough milk to keep rather 
thick. When partially cooled mix with it a lump of butter, four 
tablespoons grated cheese and yolks of three eggs. Season to taste, 
drop into hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a nice brown. Arrange in a 
circle on a napkin lapping over one another and serve. 

Rye Fritters. — Two eggs, three cups flour, one cup rye-meal, 
one teaspoon soda, two of cream tartar, one cup sugar, a little salt ; 
mix with milk or water, drop from a spoon into hot lard. 

Sandwich Fritters. — Cut thin slices of bread and butter them; 
spread half with any jam that may be preferred, and cover with the 
other slices ; slightly press together, and cut in square, long, or 
round pieces. Dip in a batter, prepared as in preface, and fry in 
hot fat for about ten minutes ; drain and sprinkle over with sifted 
rugar, and serve. 

8now Fritters. — The success of these depends upon using snow 
that has just fallen and is full of bubbles of air, which makes them 
light. Have the fat hot, and make a thick batter of a pint milk, 
level teaspoon salt, and sifted flour to make thick enough so that 
when dropped the batter will cling for a moment to the spoon; 
when the fat begins to smoke, stir into the batter very quickly a cup 
newly fallen snow and fry at once by tablespoonfuls. If the batter 
stands after snow is added the fritters will not be light, because the 
air will soon escape from the batter. Serve with syrup, sugar and 
butter, or any sauce preferred. Some add an egg and an apple 
chopoed fine. 

Walnut Fritters. — Take two-inch squares of baked "walnuts" 
rolled very thin, marinade in orange syrup and dip in batter and fry. 



266 FRITTERS AND CROQUETTES. 

Vanities. — Bea.t two eggs, stir in pinch salt and a half teaspoon 
rose-water, add sifted flour till just thick enough to roll out, cut with 
a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in hot fat. Sift powdered sugar on 
them while hot, and when cool put a tea-spoon jelly in the center of 
each one. Nice for tea or dessert. 



Croquettes. 



To make croquettes successfully has been said to require both 
painstaking and practice, but by observing the directions given here 
and in the recipes that follow, one who has never before attempted 
these dainties may, with a few odds and ends from the breakfast or 
dinner table, create surprisingly tempting dishes, both to the eye 
and the palate. All ingredients must be thoroughly mixed ; when 
meat is used all bits of bone, gristle, skin and fat must be carefully 
removed and meat chopped very fine, and the whole mixture made 
as moist as can be handled. Very dry or tough meat is not suitable 
for croquettes ; tender, roasted pieces give the best flavor. When 
the mixture is to be cooked it is only necessary to thoroughly heat 
through, and it must then stand until cold before shaping. If too 
moist add a little cracker-dust or crumbs, if too dry a little cream 
or yolk of an egg. Use white pepper for seasoning. 

Croquettes may be made into flat, oval, pear or egg shapes, balls 
and rolls, of which the latter are most easily made, but the pear 
shape is the handsomest ; when fried and ready to serve make an 
incision in the stalk end and insert a piece cf citron an eighth of an 
inch square and about an inch long for a stem, 
and a clove for the blossoni; great care 
Croquettes. IS rcqulrcd in shaping and frying. When 

shaped as rolls they should be about three inches long, and are 
made by taking the desired quantity of the mixture and rolling it 
very gently on a board sprinkled lightly with fine bread-crumbs or 
cracker-dust. Handle very carefully, slightly flouring the hands, 
as the slightest pressure will break them. Let them lie on the 




CROQUETTES. 267 



board until all are finished, when if any have flattened they must be 
rolled into form again. When croquettes are shaped have ready 
some well-beaten eggs in a soup plate or shallow dish — the number 
will of course depend upon the number of croquettes — and some 
finely rolled bread or cracker-crumbs or cracker-dust on a board, 
or sheet of clean brown paper. Save all bits of bread for such pur- 
poses, and prepare by drying in the oven and rolling very Une^ as 
fine as possible, keeping in a covered box, tin can or glass jar, or in 
a closely tied paper sack, in dry place. Cracker-dust may be 
bought at almost any grocery. The croquettes may be single- 
breaded, double-breaded or double-egg-breaded, according to the 
amount of moisture they contain, and must always be so thoroughly 
encased in the egg and crumbs that the fat may not penetrate them. 
To Single-hread simply coat with the beaten egg first (either by 
dipping the croquettes into it or brushing them over) and then roll 
them in crumbs, beginning with those that were first egged and 
proceeding in that order until all are done. Douhle-hreading is 
rolling them first in the crumbs, then coating with beaten egg, and 
again rolling in the crumbs. To Douhle-egg-hread, dip first in egg, 
then roll in crumbs, dip again into the egg, and roll in crumbs again. 
The croquettes are very much nicer to let stand fifteen minutes 
after they are crumbed before egging and breading again, and from 
a half hour to an hour before frying, which dries the eggs and 
crumbs thoroughly into a sort of shell. The improvement in 
appearance and lightness wall well repay one for the extra time 
and trouble. When double-egg-breading some think the croquettes 
much handsomer to roll the last time in rather coarse bread-crumbs, 
using either cracker-dust or fine crumbs for first breading. It is 
also recommended to add to the eggs to be used in breading a 
mixture of oil, water and salt, in the proportion of one tablespoon 
each oil and water and a little salt. Use either American cooking 
oil or salad oil. Fry in hot fat or oil, as fritters, a 
few at a time (a frying basket is very convenient 
for this purpose), cooking until a rich brown color, 
which will take a minute or two; then take up, 
drain, and serve as directed for fritters. Or they 
Fryiug Basket. j^^y j^g fj.^^^ jj^ fryiug-pau lu a little butter or 

drippings, but are not as nice. In making croquettes after recipes 
given, any seasoning or flavoring not liked may be omitted and 




268 CROQUETTES. 



another substituted for it or not as preferred. Croquettes may be 
fried without breading if making in a hurry, by simply rolling in 
flour, without using the eggs, but the result will not be so satisfac- 
tory or pleasing. 

A pretty breakfast dish may be made of croquettes of fish, 
lobster, fowl or meat in the shape of hen's eggs heaped upon a dish 
and surrounded by very thin strips of fried 
potato, arranged to look as much as possible ^ 
like straw, and garnished with croutons of bread. ^^^^^^^^^P 
Corn fritters and any good meat croquettes are nen-sNest. 

nice served together at tea or luncheon on same platter, neatly 
arranged heaps of fritters on one end of platter and croquettes on 
the other, placing two fritters and two croquettes upon each plate. 




Bread Croquettes. — Cut the crust from a stale loaf of bread or 
rolls, and cut into balls, squares, circles, diamonds, etc. Soak them 
in a shallow dish containing a cup milk with two teaspoons sugar 
and a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg (some add a t3eaten egg), 
turning occasionally until the whole is absorbed ; or, soak them in 
a thin custard flavored with lemon-zest, vanilla or rose-water. Do 
not let them become moist enough to break. Bread and fry as 
directed in preface, and serve with lemon sauce. 

Chicken Croq%ieites. — Take cold minced chicken and bread 
crumbs in the proportion of one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as 
meat, and one egg beaten light to each cup of meat, with gravy 
enough to moisten the crumbs and chicken — or, if there is no gravy, 
a little drawn butter or cream ; add pepper, salt and chopped 
parsley to taste, and mix with meat the yolks of two hard-boiled 
eggs rubbed fine with a spoon. Mix all into a paste, shape into 
balls with floured hands, double-bread them and drop into hot lard. 
Drain and serve in a heated dish, garnished with cresses or parsley. 
Mashed potato may be used instead of bread-crumbs, taking two- 
thirds as much potato as meat. Or, fry three shallots in butter, add 
half pint chopped chicken, dredge in teaspoon flour, season with 
pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and add sufficient white sauce 
to moisten it ; stir in yolks of two well-beaten eggs, and cool. 
Then make mixture up in balls, single-bread and fry a nice brown. 
They may be served on top of border of mashed potatoes with 
gravy or sauce in center. Or, chop cold chicken with a few slices 
ham, fat or lean, add half as much bread-crumbs, season with salt 
and pepper, a little nutmeg, teaspoon each made mustard and 
catsup and tablespoon butter ; mix and work well together, make 



CROQTTETTES. 269 



into cakes, single-bread and fry ; or another good proportion is a 
full pint cooked and finely chopped chicken, one tablespoon each 
flour and salt, half teaspoon each pepper and onion juice, one cup 
cream or chicken stock, and three tablespoons butter. Boil the 
cream or stock, add chicken and seasoning and boil two minutes ; 
stir in two well-beaten eggs and take from fire immediately, ^^'hen 
cold, shape, roll in crumbs and fry. Finely chopped onion is often 
used instead of onion juice, and chopped mushrooms are a nice 
addition. Chopped parsley, th^-me, sage, mace, nutmeg, or any 
seasoning liked, may be employed, and some prefer cracker-dust to 
bread-crumbs. The meat of any fowl may be used, and Veal, 
Mutton and Hani Croquettes are rnake in same way, or half veal 
and half ham is a nice mixture. Ham and chicken 'mixed is also 
good. For a more elaborate dish make the Croquettes vrith 
TruMes : Cut cold roast chicken into tiny squares ; take same 
quantity of truffles, diced, and mix all with some thick, well- 
seasoned white sauce, into which has been stin-ed some chopped 
mushrooms, onions, and yolks of two eggs. Make into balls or any 
shape fancied, single-bread and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. 

Chicken Croquettes icith Brains. — Chop fine the meat of one 
cold boiled chicken and add to it the finely chopped meat of two 
or three calves' brains, first soaking them in cold salted water one 
hour, then skinning and placing in cold salted water and a little 
^•inegar and boiling ten to fifteen minutes ; season the mixture with 
salt, pepper, finely-chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a little grated 
lemon-peel, and add three-quarters cup butter. If too stifi" add a 
little cream. The softer and more creamy they are the better — just 
so they -^ill hold together ; shape, double-egg-bread and fry. Serve 
with tomato sauce with sliced mushrooms ; or, for a Triple Cro- 
quette, prepare as above half a chicken, one sweet-bread boiled till 
tender, and one brain, and to the finely-chopped mixture add a 
well-beaten egg, teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to 
taste. Put in stewpan half pin cream and add one tablespoon 
corn-starch, first mixed smoothly with a little of the cream, then 
add the chopped and seasoned mixture and stir till it bubbles. 
Take off, and when cold shape and double-egg-bread ; fry in basket 
as directed in preface. 

Chicken Croquettes witti Siceethreads. — Take the white meat 
of a chicken and pound it to a paste with a large boiled sweetbread 
freed from sinews ; beat one egg with a teaspoon flour and four 
tablespoons cream, and add, with salt and pepper, mixing all well 
together; put in a pan and simmer just enough to absorb part, of 
the moisture, stirring constantly ; turn out on fiat dish and set in 
ice-box to become cold and firm, then roll into small neat shapes 
of cones, rolls or balls, handling carefully, and £iy a delicate brown. 
Some add a little grated nutmeg. Or, for a Royal Sweetbreaa, stir 



270 CROQUETTES. 



two tablespoons butter and one of flour in stewpan over fire ; when 
it bubbles add little by little one pint cream, then the finely-chopped 
meat from two sweetbreads soaked five minutes in boiling water, 
and one boiled chicken, dark and white meat, seasoned with one 
tablespoon each onion juice (or half teaspoon grated onion) and 
chopped parsley, one teaspoon mace, and salt and pepper to taste. 
Stir till well heated, take from fire, add lemon juice and let cool. 
When cold roll into shape with fine cracker-crumbs and double-egg- 
bread as directed, lettmg them stand till dry after rolling in 
cracker-crumbs first time, and then using rather coarse bread- 
crumbs for last rolling. Or, for Croquettes with Bread Crumbs^ 
take after chicken and sweetbreads are finely chopped and seasoned 
as above (without the lemon juice) aa equal quantity of fine bread- 
crumbs. Place in stewpan as much broth from boiled chicken 
(having saved it all) as will moisten the crumbs, in proportion of 
about half pint to a pint crumbs ; add four tablespoons cream and 
two of butter; when boiling add crumbs till they adhere to spoon. 
Mix with meat and when cool add two well-beaten eggs and mold 
into croquettes ; double-bread and fry as above. 

Crah Croquettes. — Boil two crabs fifteen minutes, remove the 
meat from the shells and chop it coarsely. Melt three tablespoons 
butter in a saucepan, stir into it six tablespoons flour and add to 
this by degrees a half pint milk. When this is brought to the 
boiling point let it boil for two minutes and take from fire. Throw 
into the saucepan the meat from the crabs, add to the mixture one 
grain cayenne, half teaspoon pepper, teaspoon each anchovy sauce 
and salt, and when thoroughly mixed turn it out upon a plate and let 
cool. When quite cold form into small rolls three inches in length, 
single-bread and fry; serve on a folded napkin garnished with 
sprigs of parsley. 

Cream Croquettes. — Put stick cinnamon one inch long in pint 
new milk in custard kettle. When hot stir in three tablespoons 
sugar, two of corn-starch and one of flour, the two latter rubbed 
smooth with two or three additional tablespoons cold milk; let 
cook ten or fifteen minutes, stir in beaten yolks of three eggs, 
take out cinnamon and place inner kettle on table and stir in half 
tablespoon butter and half teaspoon vanilla. Pour on a buttered 
platter till one-half inch high ; when cold cut in two-inch squares, 
carefully double-bread with cracker-crumbs, having the beaten 
egg slightly sweetened. Fry as directed and place on papered pan 
in oven for five minutes to drain and soften the croquettes. Serve 
hot on a hot dish — this is imperative — first sprinkling with sugar. 
A richer cream may be made by using three tablespoons butter, two 
whole eggs, and four additional yolks. Either is simply delicious. 

Hominy Croquettes. — Pour one and a half pints boiling water 
on a half pint hominy, stir, cover and boil slowly, stirring occasion-- 



CROQUETTES. 271 



ally for twenty minutes, or until the water is absorbed and the 
hominy rather stiff; add one and a half gills milk and teaspoon 
salt, stir thoroughly, cover and let stand ten minutes, cooking again 
if necessary, very slowly ; it should be like a tolerably thick batter, 
but not too thick to drop. Beat in a tablespoon butter and pour 
the whole into a shallow pan to cool — if allowed to get cold it will 
be too stiff. Make into balls the size of an egg, single-bread and 
fry. This quantity should make fifteen croquettes. Or, to make 
with cold hominy, work two tablespoons melted butter with two 
cups cold boiled hominy, add two well-beaten eggs and a pinch of 
salt, beat thoroughly and make into balls or rolls. Some add a cup 
milk by degrees and two teaspoons sugar. Single-bread them and 
fry. Serve with syrup or a sweet sauce. 

Lobster Croquettes. — Finely chop the meat of a lobster, work 
in two tablespoons butter — melted, but not hot — then a teaspoon 
each anchovy sauce and lemon juice, a little salt, pepper, mace and 
lemon peel, two raw eggs, and lastly a half cup bread-crumbs. 
Make into egg shapes, single-bread them and fry quickly. Drain 
thoroughly and serve very hot. These croquettes are delicious. 
The dish should be garnished with slices of lemon. Pass milk or 
cream crackers with them. 

Meat Croquettes. — Take cold chicken, or roast or boiled beef 
or veal, mince very fine, moisten with cold gravy if at hand, or 
moisten well, and add one egg, season with pepper, salt, and an 
onion, or sage ; make into small cakes or rolls, single-bread, and 
fry in lard and butter. One cup fresh boiled rice may be added 
before making into cakes. Or, take one-quarter 
as much cold potato, either mashed or chopped 

_^ and pounded fine, as cold cooked beef or meat 

Meat Croquettes?"'^ of auy klud, choppcdvcry fine, with gravy or 
cream enough to moisten, add one beaten egg and pepper and 
salt to taste, with a pinch of marjoram ; mix, season, and form into 
balls. Double-bread them and fry in hot lard to delicate brown. 
Drain and serve hot. Bread-crumbs may be used instead of potato, 
using half and half, or any proportion wished ; or one-third meat, 
potatoes and bread-crumbs. For Fresh Meat Croquettes take any 
fresh meat, beef, veal or mutton, and grind through a small meat 
cutter, or chop and pound very thoroughly to a jelly, then add 
quarter as much either bread-crumbs or potatoes ; add egg, etc., and 
finish as above. Or, prepare meat as above, add pepper and salt, 
and one-fourth as much bread-crumbs as meat, moisten with a little 
boiled milk that has cooled, add one egg, a little chopped onion, 
and single-bread and fry in a little butter, or immerse in hot fat 

Oyster Croquettes. — Take half pint each raw oysters and 
cooked veal, a heaping tablespoon butter, three of cracker-crumbs, 




272 CROQUETTES. 



yolks of two eggs, one tablespoon onion juice ; chop oysters and 
veal very fine, soak the crackers in oyster-liquor, and then mix all 
the ingredients and shape, single-bread in cracker-dust and fry. 
The butter should be softened before mixing. 

Parsnip Croquettes. — Boil six parsnips till tender ; when cold 
grate and mix with two eggs, season and add flour, and shape into 
balls, single-bread or not, and fry by immersion ; or fry plainly in a 
little oil, drippings or lard. 

Potato Croquettes. — Two cups cold mashed potatoes, two well- 
beaten eggs, one tablespoon melted butter, a teaspoon fine bread- 
crumbs, salt, pepper and a little chopped parsley, or other seasoning 
to taste. Mix well, make into balls, single-bread and fry. Or, melt 
butter in saucepan, add two tablespoons milk, let boil ; then add 
potatoes first pressed through sieve, stir well together till potatoes 
are very hot ; take from fire, add pepper, salt and cayenne, drop in 
yolks of two eggs, and stir till the heat of potato dries the egg ; let 
cool and roll into small balls with a little flour to prevent sticking 
to hands, and then single-bread, using the whites of the two eggs. 
The yolks give the croquettes a rich yellow color ; if whites were 
added to croquettes they would be difficult to form into balls and 
the color would not be so fine. 

Rice Croquettes. — Put three-fourths pound of rice over the 
fire in a quart milk and simmer slowly twenty minutes ; remove 
from fire, stir in beaten yolks of two eggs, a teaspoon lemon juice, 
saltspoon salt, and three tablespoons sugar ; beat all thoroughly 
together, turn into a bowl and let stand until cool, then make into 
balls ; beat the whites of two eggs until quite light but not to a 
firm froth, dip the balls into this, then into fine bread-crumbs and 
fry. Serve thickly sprinkled with sugar. Or, take one large cup 
cooked rice, half cup milk, one egg, one tablespoon each sugar and 
butter, half a teaspoon salt, slight grating of nutmeg. Put milk on 
to boil, and add rice and seasoning. When it boils up, add the egg, 
well beaten, stir one minute, then take off" and cool. When cold, 
shape, single-bread, fry, and serve very hot. Any flavoring can be 
substituted for the nutmeg. For nice croquettes without eggs put 
a quarter of a pound of Carolina "head" rice — or nine tablespoons — 
a pint milk, three tablespoons powdered sugar, butter size of a 
Avalnut, and a teaspoon extract vanilla into a saucepan and simmer 
gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be 
cooked until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mold into cro- 
q^uettes. Beat thoroughly three or four minutes ; turn out on a flat 
tin, and when cold and stiff* form into balls, single-bread them and 
fry. 




DINNER OF FIVE COURSES. 
For ten persons, with 12 covers laid, two extra coyers are for accidental gueiti. 

FIBST CODESE— SODP. 

L For dessert or fancy pieces. &, For dessert or fancy pieces. 

% Cak^ pastry, biscuit or sweets, 7 Cruet. 

a. For dessert or fancy pieces. ft Chutney. 

< For dessert or fancy pieces. 9. Worcestershire sance. 

& Cake, pastry or sweets. ID. Oyster crackers and soda crackers. 

When wines are to be served, four decanters containing the different kinds should 
be placed between the crackers and toast, another may stand at the right of tha 
host, and still another at right of hostess. The wine glasses, one for each kind, are 
placed near the glass of water (see diagraai,; at the plate of each guest. 




WINTER LUNCH. 

FOB 8 COVERS. 

1, Vegetable salad. 10. Brown bread. .^.«„«^ 

2. Preserved fruit, fruit jelly, etc. 11. Macaroni with totnatosauctt 
8. Oyster salad. 12. JNuts. 

4. Potato puffs, 13. Pickles. , , .^ 

5. SmaU fancy cakes. 14. Preserved fruits. 

6. Cruet. 15. Charlotte russe. 

7. Bonbons. 16. Cabinet pudding with cream saUflti 

8. Baked Sweet potatoes, 17. Preserved fruit, Iruitjeily.ew. 
». Bread. 18. Braised beef. 

Blftifffti'* in tno cea.ter. 



CROQUETTES. 277 



A very excellent recipe for croquettes when one has to prepare 
them hastily and has not time to bread them, is one cup cold boiled 
rice, a teaspoon each sugar and melted bnt<er, half teaspoon salt, 
one egg Beaten light, eight crackers rolled fine, and a little sweet 
milk ; mix all well together, make into oval cakes and fry in butter 
till a nice yellow brown. Syrup, or a nice sweet sauce, should be 
served with rice croquettes. 

Rice Ball Croquettes. — Boil a half pound rice — or eighteen 
tablespoons — in a quart stock, broth or water very gently for half an 
hour, add three tablespoons butter and simmer until quite dry and 
soft. When cold make into balls and fill with the chopped meat of 
a cold fowl, mixed with six tablespoons each white sauce and broth, 
which should be rather thick; cover over with rice, single-bread 
them and fry. Garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white sauce, 
or a little cream may be stirred into the rice, if liked, before it cools. 
Or, for a dessert dish, boil the rice in milk, with three or four table- 
spoons sugar, flavor with lemon peel, vanilla or bitter almonds, and 
make into balls with a small piece of jelly or jam in the center of 
each, bread them and fry. 

Salsify Croquettes. — "Wash, scrape and boil the salsify till 
tender ; rub it through a colander, and mix with pulp a little butter, 
cream, salt, cayenne and lemon juice; mix ingredients thoroughly 
together to a smooth paste, and set dish in ice-box to get cold ; then 
shape it into small cakes or cones, single-bread and fry crisp and 
brown. 

Venison Croquettes. — Three-fourths pint chopped venison, one- 
fourth pint stale bread, crumbed fine, one cup 
gravy thickened with browned flour, one teaspoon 
jelly, a pinch of mace, very little grated lemon i,j..m .__ijlm ,< 
peel, and chopped parsley to taste. Stir the jelly venison croquetea. 
into the gravy with the seasoning ; with this mix the meat and 
crumbs, add the beaten egg, make into rolls, single-bread them and 
fry. Mutton Croquettes are nice made same way. 




278 FRUIT. 



FUTJIT. 



Fruit is very generally and erroneously regarded as a luxury 
rather than as a valuable, even necessary, article of food, and many 
housekeepers who now stint this supply for economy's sake would 
do better to banish rich pastry entirely from their tables and 
substitute instead an abundance of fruit. Acid fruits furnish 
oxygen in abundance, and consequently assist in the assimilation 
of the carbonaceous elements of food. If the diet is largely made 
up of fats, sweets and starchy foods, which are mostly carbon, a 
great deal of oxygen is needed to carry on the necessary chemical 
combustion, and when this is not obtained either by out-of-door 
exercise or the free consumption of fruit, headaches and biliousness 
result ultimately followed by more serious disorders, such as 
neuralgia, rheumatism, fevers and inflammatory diseases. So that 
for persons engaged in sedentary pursuits it is evident that fruit is 
as necessary as bread and meat. The hydroganic acid found in 
most northern fruits not only stimulates digestion, but is itself a 
nerve food ; peaches, apricots, apples and cherries abound in this 
acid, retaining it in a large degree when dried, and it is contained 
also in almonds, raisins and peach pits, which eaten after meals 
often aid digestion. One or two peach pits eaten regularly thus 
have been known to effect permanent cures of the nervous forms of 
indigestion, and if their value in this respect were generally known 
they would not be so universally wasted. A prominent physician 
has suggested that "Feast on Fruit Freely," be hung as a motto in 
every dining room and taught to every person. Fruit should be 
eaten at meals instead of between meals, and no breakfast, especially, 



FRUIT. 



279 



should be made without it. All fruits intended for immediate 
eating should be gathered before ten o'clock in summer in order to 
obtain their best flavor. And if the market is to be depended upon 
the utmost care should be exercised in its selection. 

California and Florida oranges are the best, a difference of opin- 
ion existing among fruit connoisseurs as to the comparative merits 
of the two, which rival each other so closely that there is perhaps 
but little choice. 

The only really desirable lemons, aside from a few from River- 
side, California, are the Messinas, Palermos and Sicilys, all foreign 
importations, ranking in the order named. Choose the heavy fruit, 
•with clean, smooth, thin skin, of a bright yellow color, and the 
medium sized lemon, known among dealers as the "360" is the best. 
The large lemons are more showy and expensive but are apt to be 
dry. 

The banana is the most nutritious of all fruits, and is becoming 
more popular every year. 

The plantain is a tropical fruit of the banana species, of the 
same shape and color but much larger — about two feet long and 
three inches in diameter — is of a coarse fibre and is not palatable 
raw, but very good fried or baked. It is considered very nutritious 
and wholesome, and is one of the main products of Honduras. 

The guava is a fruit not generally known in the north, though 
quite a demand exists in southern markets. There are several 
varieties of this fruit, some of which are natives of Asia, some of 
America, and some are common to both. The best of these is the 
white guava, which is abundant in the West Indies ; is rather larger 
than a hen's egg, smooth, yellow and of a peculiar smell. The pulp 
is of a very agreeable taste, sweet and aromatic, and is used at 
dessert and preserved. Gauva jelly comes from the "West Indies, 
is highly esteemed, and excellent for giving strength and tone to 
one after a long illness or when digestion is impaired. 

Pineapples when well matured are delicious and wholesome, 
and may be had at almost any season. 

Of the smaller domestic fruits strawberries may be had from 
the last of April until into July. The Crescent is the best variety 
for table use. Cherries ripen in June and the best table varieties 
are the Oxheart, Whiteheart and Blackheart. The sweet "ground 
cherry," as it is called, is a fruit but little known in market though 



280 FRUIT. 

it has been successfully grown in private gardens for many years. 
It is the fruit of a plant which in its general appearance, habits and 
growth resembles the tomato plant. The fruit is round as a cherry, 
and about three-fourths of an inch in diameter when taken out of 
the husk in which it is enclosed. When ripe the fruit falls from 
the plant and is better to lie in the husk awhile, when it becomes 
very sweet. It makes most excellent pies, sauce or preserves, and 
requires very little sweetening. When dried with a little sugar it is 
equal to raisins for many purposes. It begins to blossom the last 
of July, and, like the tomato, continues to blossom, set and ripen 
till killed by the frost. Currants include red, white and black 
varieties, the best of which are known as Cherry, Fay's Prolific, 
White Dutch, and White Grape, and choice fruit can be obtained 
in almost any market during July. The ripening season begins in 
June, and the fruit may be had tmtil into August. Of red rasp- 
berries the Cuthbert is the finest of any yet known, though excellent 
fruit is plentiful in its season, which is from the middle of June to 
the middle of August. White raspberries are scarce and highly 
prized. Fine black raspberries, or "black-caps," are common 
everywhere in this country, as are also blackberries, of which the 
Lawton ranks the highest. Gooseberries are not so much used 
fresh at table as they should be, as when perfectly ripe they make 
a delicious dessert. There are a number of varieties, red, yellow, 
green and white, and may be had from May till August. What are 
known as whortleberries and huckleberries are often confounded 
with blueberries, which are much superior though of the same 
species. The former have larger seeds and not so fine flavor as the 
latter, and are not so desirable for any purpose. Blueberries make 
a delicious dessert sprinkled with ice and sugar and served with 
cream as any other fruit. 

Every section has its favorite varieties of melons — the earliest 
shipments coming from the gulf coast islands about June 1st — any 
of which make a wholesome addition to breakfast or dessert. 
The nutmeg meloiis are very choice and have long ranked highest 
in market, but the Japan melon is a later and still more perfect 
production. It has a rough green rind, and when well ripened, a 
smooth, yellow pulp, sweet and luscious. Watermelons are plenty 
and cheap everywhere. 



FRUIT. 



281 



Of the delicious peach only the freestones are suitable for 
table use when raw, but the "clings" are very fine in compotes, 
stews, etc. The vegetable or vine peach is another fruit but little 
known, though very desirable. It grows on a vine similar to a 
muskmelon vine, and ripens in August. It is of about the size of a 
large peach, yellow when ripe, and when peeled, halved and the 
seeds taken out, looks very much like a peach treated in the same 
manner ; it makes very nice pies, and for sweet pickles and pre- 
serves is unsurpassed. Apricots and nectarines are fruits similar 
in character to the peach, without its rough, fuzzy coat, and not to 
be compared with it in lusciousness and fine flavor. 

Pears may be obtained from the middle of July until well into 
the winter, the Bartlett being the choicest and the Winter Nellis 
being the best keeper. The fine-grained pears are best for eating. 
There are several good varieties of plums, the California and Oregon 
fruit, sweet, large and fine flavored, leading. 

The apple is, however, the staple American fruit, and no other 
is grown to such perfection or can be so easily preserved through 
the winter. This fruit is palatable and nutritious, easily digested 
when perfectly ripe, so common as to be found on the humblest 
tables, and may be prepared in a great diversity of ways. 

The albuminous fruits, such as cocoa-nuts, filberts, almonds, 
hickory nuts, etc., are really seeds, and contain a large proportion 
of nutritive matter. Cocoa-nuts should be bought cautiously in 
summer, heat being likely to sour. the milk. The Jordan sweet 
almond is the best, the Tarragon ranking next, and the California 
Soft Shell being third. The kernels of the sweet almonds are 
served in either a green or a ripe state at dessert, but the bitter 
almonds are little used and only in cookery. 

The arrangement of fresh fruits for the table afi'ords play for the 
most cultivated taste and not a little real inventive genius. Melons, 

oranges, and indeed all kinds of 
fruits, are appropriate breakfast dishes, 
and a center piece of mixed fruits 
furnishes a delicious dessert, 
and is an indispensable orna- 
ment to an elegant dinner- 
table. Large fruits, or large 
bunches of fruits are required, 
and that shown in cut is composed of pears, peaches, apricots, and 




--'!!!!!i!r 



282 FRUIT. 

plums as a kind of raised ground-work, with a magnificent bunch of 
royal-purple grapes on top. The colors of the fruits should blend 
harmoniously and the effect should be fresh and apparently un- 
studied, but they should be firmly placed so that when the dish is 
moved there will be no danger of an avalanche. Green leaves are 
well-nigh indispensable to the preparation of fresh fruit for dessert, 
but there should be just enough and no more ; a judicious peep of 
one here and another there, a tuft of green on this side and on that 
is all that is needed. Too many leaves will utterly spoil the effect 
and render it inartistic. This garnishing with foliage needs especial 
attention, as the contrast of the brilliant-colored fruits with nicely 
arranged leaves is very charming. The garnish j^^r excelletice for des- 
sert is the ice-plant, its crystallized dewdrops producing a marvelous 
effect in the height of summer, giving a most inviting sense of cool- 
ness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow, strawberry 
and vine-leaves have a pleasing effect ; and for winter desserts the 
bay, Cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. Flowers may be very 
gracefully and artistically combined with fruits, and a pyramid of 
grapes made up of Malagas, Delawares and Concords makes a 
showy center piece and a delicious dessert. Rosy-cheeked apples 
in a firm row for a base, and fine yellow pears piled carelessly on 
top, stems upward, with a green leaf here and there,make a pretty dish. 
Apples and pears look well mingled with plums and grapes hanging 
from the border of the dish in a neglige sort of manner, with a large 
bunch of grapes lying on top of the apples. Strawberries and black 
raspberries in alternate rows, separated by a light fringe of green 
leaves, in cone-like form, is another attractive dish. Peaches and 
apricots mingle prettily with green leaves, and plums and green 
gages set one another off" advantageously with a judicious addition 
of leaves. Attractive methods of serving melons and small fruits 
are given in recipes that follow. Almonds and raisins are served 
together, the almonds being first blanched, and then thrown in 
among the fruit. Serve large nuts of various kinds together, a 
sufficient portion for the dessert cut open or cracked, and all care- 
fully arranged in a pyramid. Nuts of any kind should be so cracked 
and heaped up. Dates and figs may be put together in a variety of 
ways, the two colors giving a distinct character, and look well with 
a few leaves and tufts here and there. Pine-apples are thought to 



FRUIT. 283 

be much more delicious if sliced and sprinkled with sugar, some 

time before serving, but if wished for a ^^Ar 

more ornamental dish they should be cut JS^ 

as illustrated, and served with a border j0^^^ =• 

of oranges and cherries or grapes, with J^I^^^^^S^^^pllkBi 

the tuft in the top and a few green leaves ^'^imm^^^m 

scattered about. A pine-apple in the cen- Pmeappi*. 

ter of a dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and 

colors, mixed with pears or rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with 

a due regard to color, have a good effect. 

Frozen fruits should stand an hour or so after freezing, and in 
adding whipped cream beat it in thoroughly with a wooden spoon 
or paddle. Fruit creams are very elegant desserts, and are made 
by adding double the quantity of cream to the fruit pulp, which is 
obtained by passing through a puree sieve. Whip together, sweeten 
to taste, and serve in glasses with whipped cream on top. To mold 
fruits, cook slowly with sufficient sugar to form a jelly — pound for 
pound — and turn into molds. Or to more perfectly preserve the 
form of the fruit make a jelly of a little of the fruit juice and water, 
stir in the cooked fruit when both are nearly cold, and turn into 
molds. One of the most valuable uses of apples is to employ them 
in conjunction with other fruit — either to ameliorate the harshness 
of damsons or add to the flavor of blackberries, and they are cooked 
also with quinces, green gages, pineapples, apricots and with rasp- 
berry or currant preserves. When used with the larger fruits 
choose apples of same size if possible, and cut in same shaped 
pieces or slices. An apple-corer, a cheap tin tube, 
made by any tinner, is indispensable in preparing 

A pie corers applcs for cooklug. Thcy are made in two sizes, 

one for crab-apples and the other for larger varieties. Ehubarb or 
pieplant can be mixed with any kind of fruit, half and half, and in 
a short time will taste exactly like the fruit with which it is mixed. 
Compotes of the light-fleshed fruits, such as pears, peaches, apples, 
etc., may be handsomely colored by adding a little currant jelly or 
juice, a little water from sliced boiled beets, or a few drops of 
cochineal coloring. The syrups for compotes should boil until a 
little cooled in a saucer will form a jelly. When cream is served 
with fruit it is always much nicer whipped. A covered jar or bean- 
pot is much the best utensil for baking fruit, confining the steam 




284 



FRUIT. 



and requiring little or no water ; the action of the more gentle and 
uniform heat leaves it in better form, and the syrup is clearer. In 
peeling fruit the use of the paring knife 
with a guard, which prevents the removal 
of any but a thin skin, will not only effect - ''"'°' ''"''• 

a saving, but as in most fruits the best part lies nearest the rind 
will also insure a better flavor. Sliced fruits or berries are more 
attractive and palatable sprinkled with sugar about an hour before 
ser\dng, and then with pounded ice just before sending to the table. 
When berries are left, scald for a few minutes ; too much cooking 
spoils the flavor. Some think many of the sour berries are im- 
proved by slightly cooking them with a little sugar before serving. 
If a part of the berries are badly bruised, gritty, etc. (but not sour 
or bitter), scald and drain them through a fine sieve without press- 
ing them. Sweeten the juice and serve as a dressing for puddings, 
shortcakes, etc., or can for winter use. In using molds for fruits 
etc., dip in cold water before filling. 



Apples. — The varieties are almost innumerable, every section 
having its preferred kinds, though there are some general favorites, 
among them the following ; Early Harvests, Red Streaks, Golden 
Pippins, Pound Sweets, Belle Flower, Maiden Blush, Snow Apples, 
Winter Pippins, King's, Spitzenberg, Baldwin, Ben Davis, Genitans, 
Rhode Island Greenings, Roxbury Russets and Wine Saps. The 
last eight varieties are all excellent keepers, the Wine Sap keeping 
the longest, and the Rhode Island Greening is a famous pie apple, 
known and used everywhere. The others named are all excellent 
eating and cooking apples. Select smooth, mellow, fine-flavored 
ones, wash and wipe dry and serve at dessert heaped in fruit dish 
with a border of green leaves, or with leaves interspersed. A border 
of small fruits makes a very attractive dish. 

Baked Apples. — Whether plainly or elaborately prepared and 
served, baked apples form an always acceptable and appropriate 
dish for breakfast, luncheon, dessert or tea. Sweet apjJes require 
longer baking than sour. To bake tart apples, wash and cut out the 
blossoms and stems, and in the stem end put some sugar; bake till 
soft, basting occasionally with the juice in the pan ; serve either 
warm or cold with^ sweetened cream or milk. Or, bake them 
entirely whole and without paring, pricking with a coarse needle to 
prevent bursting. Put in baking dish, stems upward, and as they 
begin to warm rub over v/ell with butter. Serve either warm or 



FRUIT. 285 

cold thickly strewn with powdered sugar. For Baked Apples with 
Syrup take half a dozen apples, a half pound of sugar, and little 
cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg ; peel and core the apples, put them 
into a deep pie-dish half filled with water, and add above ingre- 
dients. Bake until fruit is soft and brown and syrup thick. When 
cold, place the apples in a glass dish, pouring the syrup over. For 
an extra nice dish, pare and core tart apples, place in pan with a 
little water, put butter and sugar in cavity, sprinkle cinnamon over, 
and bake, basting often; serve with sweetened cream or milk. 
Or, fill cavities with sugar, a little lemon juice or extract, and some 
thin slices lemon rind ; sprinkle sugar over the tops, baste often, 
and serve cold with cream, or with whipped cream, flavored with 
sugar and essence of lemon, or a boiled custard, poured over so as 
to nearly conceal them. For Spiced Apples ipare and core tart 
apples, fill center with sugar, stick fovir cloves in the top of each, 
and bake in deep Pie-plates, with a little water. For StuiFed Apples 
peel and core large sour apples, put in baking dish with a very little 
water, and for every half dozen take a cup sugar, half teaspoon 
mixed ground spices, pinch of salt, two tablespoons each cracker- 
crumbs and cream, or milk ; mix all well together and fill the core 
cavities, bake until tender but not broken, basting often with the 
juice in the dish ; serve either hot or cold with sweetened cream, or 
place apples in center of a large dish with border of whipped cream 
around. A really elegant dish. Another equally tempting dish 
is Jellied Pippins, made by putting in baking dish a layer of 
pippins or other tender, juicy apples, pared and cored but not 
sliced. Pour over them a syrup of one cup water and a half cup 
sugar, stirred over the fire until sugar is dissolved ; cover closely and 
bake slowly until tender. Take from the oven and let cool without 
uncovering. Pour off syrup and fill core cavities with bright fruit 
jelly. Boil the syrup until quite thick, and just before sending the 
apples to table stir into it rich cream well sweetened. Serve with 
apples. For Blushed Apples^ peel nice, round, tart apples care- 
fully, without coring, place in baking dish in one layer, and make 
a syrup of one pint water and four tablespoons sugar ; add a few 
cloves, little grated lemon peel and small stick cinnamon ; pour 
over fruit, cover the dish and bake, being careful not to have them 
break. When done lift carefully to a handsome platter, and with 
a small brush tint delicately on one side with a little beaten currant 
jelly. Strain the syrup and if more than quarter of a pint place 
OP the stove and boil it to that quantity. When cold add juice of 
half a lemon and pour around the apples. Another simple way is 
to quarter and core sour apples without paring, put in baking-dish, 
sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, add a little water and bake 
until tender. The proportion of sugar is a gill, and butter half size 
of an egg, to three pints of apples, and a gill and a half of water. 
To prepare sweet apples for baking, wash and core but do not pare, 



286 



FRUIT. 



though some simply cut out the blossom ends, and when sure fruit 
is perfectly sound leave entirely whole, pricking to prevent burst- 
ing. Put them in baking-pan with a little water and let them bake 
very slowly, basting occasionally. They require several hours, and 
when done are of a rich, dark brown color; if taken out too soon 
they are insipid. Some keep them covered while baking, removing 
the cover just before apples are done, while others first steam them 
until quite tender, then put in oven and bake. Serve with whipped or 
plain sweetened cream or milk. 

Coddled Apples. — Wash unripe, dark-green, sour apples, and 
put in porcelain-lined kettle ; cover with water, and boil until ten- 
der ; pour in a sieve and cool, throw away the water that drains off, 
pulp through the sieve and add sugar to taste. Serve cold, pouring 
the pulp in center of dish ; leave it as it falls, without smoothing, 
and grate a little nutmeg over the top. To be eaten with sugar and 
cream. 

Creamed Apples. — Pare and core the fruit and either scald or 
bake until soft enough to pulp through a colander or sieve ; sweeten 
to taste, and fill glasses three-fourths full ; sprinkle each plentifully 
with powdered cinnamon, and when cold put 
whipped^ cream over all, heaping until it 
stands in peaks. Another nice way of 
^^^ serving is to beat well together two cups 
grated apples, one of sugar, butter size of 
walnut, two tablespoons water, one egg, and a bit of orange or 
lemon peel ; stir all over the fire about ten minutes, and serve 
either warm or cold with whipped cream heaped high over the whole, 
or laid upon each saucer. 

Fried Apples. — Select sour apples and quarter and core with- 
out paring ; prepare frying-pan by heating and putting in beef drip- 
pings, lay apples in skin side down, sprinkle with a little brown 
sugar, and when nearly done turn and brown thoroughly. Or, cut 
in slices across the core, about a quarter of an inch thick, put a 
little butter or drippings in pan, fill with the sliced apples and fry, 
stirring occasionally to prevent burning ; serve in dish sprinkled 
over with sugar. If wanted extra nice, cut a little thicker and fry 
like pancakes, turning when brown ; as fast as fried take out on a dish, 
or platter, sprinkle over with sugar, and place in oven to keep 
hot, proceeding thus with each panful until a sufficient quantity is 
done, taking care not to break the slices. Serve in layers on the 
platter, or neatly placed in individual dishes. Or, for Fried Apples 
with Porh^ fry in its drippings and serve arranged in a row around 
the slices of pork, on platter. A dish of Fried Whole Apples is 
prepared thus : Peel very small but prettily shaped apples, leaving 
stems on. Put into a saucepan of hot butter, and shake over a 




Creamed Apples. 



FRUIT. 



287 



brisk fire until a nice brown ; drain, and arrange neatly, stems up, 
on a thick layer of sugar in a dish, and serve either hot or cold. 
Transcendent crabs are verv nice cooked thus. 

Frosted Apples. — Peel pippins, stew in a thin syrup till tender, 
dip in frothed white of egg, and sift powdered sugar thickly over 
them ; put in cool oven to harden, and serve in glass dish. 

Iced Apples. — Peel and core one dozen large apples, fill with 
sugar and a little butter and nutmeg ; bake until nearly done, let 
cool and remove to another plate, if it can be done without breaking 
them (if not, pour off the juice). Ice tops and sides with cake ice- 
ing, and brown lightly; serve with cream. 

Jellied Apples. — Pare, quarter and core nice golden pippins, 
cut into slices, stew in a little water till tender, and beat to a pulp. 
Make a thick syrup by boiling a pound and a half white sugar and 

juice of three lemons ; simmer gently SmBB^^^^^ 

blanched almonds and serve sur- '""■"jemedAppiewuhAimonds. 

rounded with whipped cream or a thick custard. Or, slice the 
apples and put in pudding dish with alternate layers of sugar ; cover 
with a plate, put a weight on it and bake in slow oven three hours. 
Let stand until cold and it will turn out a handsome form of sliced 
apples imbedded in jelly. 

Marlled Apples. — Peel, halve and core a dozen fine apples, 
place in a pan thickly spread with butter, powder with sugar and 
grated lemon peel, and bake in oven. Nearly fill an ornamental 
mold with apple marmalade, leaving an opening in center ; pile the 
baked apples in a ring upon the marmalade, fill the opening left 
(vith custard, and cover the whole with orange marmalade. Set 
mold in pan of hot water to bake, and serve hot. Or, pare and core 
six or seven apples leaving them whole ; boil half pint water and 
two tablespoons sugar, put in the apples and simmer gently till 
tender, taking care not to let them break. Cover bottom of dish 
with apple marmalade or apple butter, flavored with lemon, and 
place apples on this with piece of butter on each, and a few spoon- 
fuls apricot jam or marmalade. Set the dish in oven ten minutes, 
then sprinkle over with powdered sugar and brown with sala- 
mander. 

Meringued Apples. — Put one quart water and two large cups 
granulated sugar m saucepan. Have ten apples pared and cored, 
and as soon as sugar and Avater boils, put in as many apples as will 



288 FRUIT. 

cook without crowding. Simmer gently until fruit is cooked 
through, turning when one side is done. Drain and cool on a dish ; 
pare, quarter and stew six more apples in one cup water. Turn 
stewed apples into syrup left from cooking the others, add grated 
rind and juice of one lemon, and simmer twenty minutes or until a 
smooth marmalade is formed, then let cool. Put one quart milk 
in custard-kettle, reserving half a . cup for mixing one tablespoon 
com-starch, which stir in when milk is hot, and let cook five 
minutes. Beat yolks of six eggs and whites of two with half cup 
powdered sugar ; gradually pour boiling milk on this, return to 
kettle and cook three minutes, stirring all the time, add salt, turn 
into bowl, and let cool ; place the whole apples in a mound on dish 
using the marmalade to fill up the spaces between the apples. Beat 
four whites to a stiff froth with four tablespoons powdered sugar, 
spread over apples, and stick one pint blanched almonds into it, 
cutting each one in two or three strips as in Jellied Apples. Brown 
slowly in the oven and let cool. Serve with the custard seasoned 
with lemon poured around the base of meringu 

Steamed Apples. — Take smooth, rich-flavored apples, wash auv. 
remove cores, leaving fruit whole. Put in a steamer and cook until 
perfectly tender. The juice in pan may be stewed down and 
poured over the apples ; serve either warm or cold with sugar and 
cream. Sweet apples are especially nice steamed, and if liked can 
be browned in oven ten or fifteen minutes, and when placed in oven 
put on each apple a tablespoon of meringue as above. , 

Stewed Apples. — Take nice, smooth, sweet apples and remove 
cores without paring. Put into a covered saucepan with cold water, 
heat gradually and simmer gently until done. It should take a half 
day to cook them properly without breaking. Set away to get cold 
before taking out. Served with sweetened cream they are delicious. 
If tart apples are to be stewed put on with enough water to cover, 
a half cup vinegar and two cups sugar, and cook as above. For a 
very nice dish called Apple Transparency^ stew six large peeled 
and cored tart apples slowly until tender, in a syrup of half pound 
sugar and pint water, in which the rind of a lemon has been 
boiled. When done take out in glass dish and add to the syrup a 
half package of gelatine dissolved in a gill cold water ; stir until 
gelatine is melted, strain into a bowl, stir in six drops cochineal 
coloring, and when cold cut into cubes and place among the apples, 
interspersing spoonfuls of a meringue of whites of two eggs and two 
tablespoons sugar or whipped cream. 

Apple Calces. — Boil apples until they will pulp easily, mix 
smoothly with well-beaten eggs, a little cream, some powdered 
white sugar, and bread-crumbs enough to form into small cakes ; fry 
as fritters, and when a nice brown color take up. When cold squeeze 



FRUIT. 289 

some lemon juice over them, lay upon each a spoonful of thick 
cream, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. 

Apple Chocolate. — Boil a pound grated chocolate and six 
ounces white sugar in a quart new milk ; beat yolks of six eggs 
and whites of two, and when the chocolate has come to a boil take 
it from the fire and gradually add the eggs, stirring well all the 
time. Have j-eady a deep dish with a good layer of cooked and 
pulped apples in the bottom, sweetened to taste and seasoned with 
powdered cinnamon ; pour the chocolate gently over, and place the 
dish in a saucepan of boiling water. When the cream is set firmly 
it is done ; sift powdered sugar over it, and glaze with a salamander 
or red-hot shovel. This preparation is not only very delicious, but 
exceedingly salutary, on account of the apples being a corrective to 
the too great richness of the chocolate. 

Apple Compotes. — Compotes are very easily prepared, and are 
said to be the most wholesome manner of serving fruits for those 
who cannot eat raw fruits or the richer preparations requiring a 
larger proportion of sugar. Fresh fruits are much more delicious 
served raw, but the compote is far better than ordinary stewed fruit, 
makes a nice dessert dish that can be hastily prepared, and apples 
are very acceptable served thus. A simple way of preparing is to 
make a syrup of a pound sugar and pint water, boiled together 
fifteen minutes and carefully skimmed. The fruit is then cooked 
in this syrup, taken out when tender, and the syrup reduced almost 
to a jelly by longer boiling, and poured over the fruit when cool. 
To avoid danger of scorching many prefer to first stew the fruit 
until tender, but not broken, in clear water, then take it out and add 
sugar to the water and boil to a nice syrup, put in the fruit again 
and simmer gently until thoroughly penetrated with the syrup, then 
take out into glass dish ; boil the syrup until very rich ana thick, 
strain it, let cool, and pour it over the fruit. For an excellent com- 
pote of apples, peel and core twelve medium-sized apples, throwing 
them into cold water as fast as peeled to prevent darkening, and 
proceed after either of the above methods. Any flavoring liked 
may be added to the syrup — juice of lemon 
and. a little of the rind is nice — and if wanted 
to cook very quickly cut the apples into -_..,„____^_ 
halves, thirds or quarters, when they will be ~ Apple compote. 

done in from ten to fifteen minutes. The fruit may be colored pink 
if liked, by adding fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. Or 
cook a half quince, cut into four pieces, until tender in a pint and a 
half water, then add the sugar for the svrup, and put in the apples, 
taking up the quince with them. This will color the compote 
beautifully, and also flavor nicely. Some cook sliced lemon and 
raisins in the syrup and pour over the apples. Pass plain or 
whipped sweetened cream with the dish. For a handsome Stuifed 
19 



gUBipsii""'' 



290 FRUIT. 

Compote select large, fine pippins of equal size, pare, take out cores, 
and cook until nearly done in syrup as above ; drain and bake a 
few moments in a quick oven. When done, and still hot, fill the 
core cavities with peach marmalade, and roll each apple in the jelly 
made by boiling down the syrup, which will give them a beautiful 
gloss. Serve in a pyramid on a dish with plain or whipped cream 
around the base. Or form into a dome and cover with a meringue 
of beaten whites of eggs and sugar, sticking sweet almonds cut into 
four lengths into the top in regular form, and put in the oven to 
brown. Or pour among the apples, before putting over the 
meringue, a marmalade of apples or boiled rice. Another method 
of serving is to prepare apples and syrup as above, put in the fruit 
and let cook until clear, remaining whole. Remove the fruit to a 
glass bowl; dissolve one-third box gelatine in a half cup hot 
water, and stir briskly into the syrup, first taking off the fire. Then 
strain over the apples, and set in cool place to cool. When cold 
heap whipped cream over it. Some add sliced lemons to the syrup 
and serve with a slice of the lemon on each apple. Or, for a Baked 
Compote take golden pippins, or any similar small apples, pare and 
core, put into a wide jar with a cover, and for two quarts apples 
add rind of a lemon cut thin, and strew in a half pound sugar. 
Cover and set in slow oven several hours. Serve hot or cold. For 
another elegant compote take smooth, prettily shaped apples and 
put into saucepan with enough water to cover j add a tablespoon 
powdered cochineal and simmer gently ; when fruit is done take 
out and put into dessert dish. Make a syrup of the liquor by 
adding white sugar and juice of two lemons ; when boiled to a jelly 
put it with the apples, decorating the dish with lemon peel cut into 
thin strips. 

Apple Cream. — Peel, core and cut three pounds of apples in 
thin slices and put in porcelain-lined kettle, with a half pound 
sugar, grated rind and juice of a lemon, and a teaspoon ground 
ginger; simmer slowly until apples are tender enough to rub 
through a sieve. Scald a quart cream, beat in the apple pulp, and 
serve either warm or cold. Any berries or soft fruit may be served 
in the same way, pulping through a sieve without cooking. 

Apple Fool. — Bake good cooking apples (not sweet), remove 
the pulp with a spoon, and beat it up with a little powdered sugar. 
To a cupful add the yolk of an egg and a small sponge cake ; mix 
together and rub through a sieve. 

Apple Fortress. — Take good, firm apples, that will not fall to 
pieces when cooked, and cut into oblong shapes two inches long 
and one inch thick ; put into a dish, sprinkle them well with white 
sugar, cover closely and let stand overnight. Next day place 
carefully in preserving kettle or pan with more sugar and water 



FRUIT. " 291 

and shred lemon peel, and cook gently over slow fire until done, 
but take care not to do them too soft. When cold build the pieces 
in shape of a tower with castellated top, fill inside with lumps of 
jelly, and on top place candied cannon, surrounded with a "ditch" 
of whipped cream. A really elegant dessert. Begin serving from 
top. 

Apple Porridge. — Boil slices of white bread in pint milk; 
when soft take off fire, sweeten with sugar, and add teaspoon ginger; 
pour in a bowl and gradually stir in the pulp of three or four nicely 
baked apples. 

Apple Sago. — Pare six apples and punch out cores, fill holes 
with cinnamon and sugar, using two teaspoons cinnamon to a cup 
sugar ; take one tablespoon sago to each apple ; wash thoroughly 
and let soak an hour in water enough to cover apples, pour water 
and sago over apples, and bake an hour and a half. 

Apple Sauce. — Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do 
not cut to pieces easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plen- 
ty of sugar. Cover closely and stew an hour or more. The addition 
of the sugar at first preserves the pieces whole. If they are pre- 
ferred finely mashed stir occasionally while cooking and add sugar 
after they are done. Flavor with nutmeg, cinnamon, or cloves, if 
liked, and some stir in piece of fresh butter. Or, for Baked Apple 
Sauce., pare, core and quarter tart apples, put a layer in earthen 
baking-dish, add lumps of butter, sprinkle with sugar and a little 
cinnamon, then a layer of apples, etc., till dish is full ; bake till soft. 
Or, omit butter and i3innamon, and add quarter cup water and half 
cup sttgar to four quarts prepared apples ; or two or three times as 
much water may be used. For Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter 
and core apples sufficient to fill a gallon porcelain-kettle, put in a half 
gallon boiled cider and let boil. Wash the apples and put in kettle, 
place a plate over them, and boil steadily but not rapidly until 
thoroughly cooked, testing by taking one from under plate with a 
fork. Do not remove plate until done, or the apples will sink to 
the bottom and burn. Apples may be cooked in sweet cider in 
same way. For an Imitation Cider Apple Sauce, pare, quarter 
and core the apples, strew sugar over and let stand overnight. 
Then stew in their own juice, and they will have a nice flavor and 
color. 

Apple Snow. — Pare, core, and bring to boil in as little water aa 
possible six large, tart apples, cool and drain on a sieve, add two 
tablespoons sugar, beat to a froth and add the well-whipped whites 
of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoons powdered sugar, or an 
egg and two-thirds tablespoon sugar to each apple if wanted very 
light and elaborate ; beat thoroughly until a stiff" snoAV, flavor with 



292 FEUIT. 

lemon or vanilla or add the grated rind of a lemon ; pile the snow 
in a rough heap or pyramid and ornament with bits of bright 
colored jelly, or encircle with a row of candied orange or lemon 
rings; serve with sweetened cream, or make custard of yolks, sugar, 
and a pint milk, place in a dish, and drop the froth on it in large 
flakes. For Apple Meringue put above mixture into a deep glass 
dish, cover with the whipped whites of three eggs and three table- 
spoons sugar, and brown delicately in oven, or with salamander. 

Apple Tapioca. — Soak half a pint tapioca several hours, or 
overnight, in half a pint cold Avater ; cover the bottom of a baking 
dish with pared and cored tart apples ; fill cores with sugar and 
bake until tender. Put the tapioca on the fire with the rind of a 
lemon cut thin, and half a pint cold water; when boiling add 
another half pint of boiling water, a gill of sugar, and the juice of 
the lemon ; boil a moment, pour it over the apples, and bake half 
an hour or longer. Or, soak half teacup tapioca in one and a half 
pints cold water on back of stove as above ; then place on the stove 
and cook till clear, sweeten, and season with a little cinnamon ; 
then place a layer of pared apples, cut in quarters or eighths, in 
baking-dish, then a layer of tapioca, then apples, etc., till all are 
used, and bake as above. Or, for Pine-apples and Tapioca take 
either fresh or canned pine-apples, chop fine, and add as above, or 
mix with the cooked tapioca and bake. 

Apple Toast. — Peel and carefully core the apples. Cut slices 
of stale bread about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut again to a 
round shape about the size of the apples, with a paste-cutter. But- 
ter each slice on both sides and place an apple upon it. Butter 
baking-dish or pan, put in the apples and bread, fill the core cavity 
with cream and sugar, or sugar alone, placing on top of sugar a 
piece of butter size of hazelnut, and set in warm but not quick 
oven. When about half done fill the hole again with the cream 
and sugar, dust with cinnamon and finish cooking. Serve ^arm. 
Or, halve the apples, hollow out the cores and place the halves upon 
the rounds of bread, fill the core cavity of each with good thick cream 
and strew sugar thickly over bread and fruit. Place in slow oven 
and renew the cream and sugar as they dissolve. When done 
arrange neatly in a dish, pour over any juice left in pan and serve 
warm ; or place cored side of apples next bread, brush with a little 
melted butter, dust with sugar, a little nutmeg or cinnamon, and 
bake as above. 

Apple Triiie. — Scald and pulp through a sieve as many apples 
as will cover the dish to be used to the depth of two or three inches, 
add grated rind of half a lemon and sugar to taste, and place in 
dish. Mix a half pint each milk and cieam and yolk of an egg, 
and sweeten to taste. Set over fire and scald, stirring constantly, 



i^RUiT. 293 

but do not boil. Let stand till cold, put it over apples and finish 
with whipped cream. 

Apples and Grapes. — Strain the juice from ripe grapes, adding 
pouna sugar to each quart, and boil until reduced one-half. Put 
into this some golden pippins, pared, cored and quartered; simmer 
very slowly until apples are done, and serve either warm or cold in 
glass dish, or seal for future use in cans. 

Apples and Quinces. — Take a quantity of golden pippins, cut 
into quarters, but do not pare, put into saucepan of boiling water 
and simmer until a jelly. To each pound jelly add a pound 
sugar ; then cut two or three quinces into quarters, and cook them 
slowly in the syrup until tender. Serve in glass dishes for dessert. 

Apricot Compote. — Make a syrup by boiling together one 
pound sugar and one and a half pints water fifteen minutes, care- 
fully removing all scum ; put in twelve apricots, simmering until 
tender, taking care that they do not break ; take out carefully, 
arrange on glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour it over the 
apricots, and when cold serve. For Peach Compote take fifteen 
peaches, peel and stone them, cook ten minutes and take out as 
above, boiling the syrup two or three minutes to reduce it before 
pouring over. A few kernels give a nice flavor. To prepare, crack 
the stones, take out kernels and blanch as almonds. A Damson 
Compote is made same as apricot, taking one quart fruit. If a 
White Compote is wished of peaches or apricots, cut the fruit in 
two, take out stones, throw them into boiling water (a very little 
lemon added) for two minutes, then plunge in cold or ice water, 
taking out immediately. This makes them white. Peel and finish 
as above. For a Red Compote add four tablespoons red currant 
juice, or a tabloaj^oon jelly, beaten smooth and thinned with a cup of 
water. 

Bananas. — There are two varieties, the yellow and red ; the 
former has a richer, finer flavor, and ranks higher in market 
than the red, although the latter is very delicious, being more solid 
and nutritious, and by some prized more highly. The choicest 
bananas are the Aspinwall Lady Fingers, grown on the Isthmus of 
Panama. They are of a pale lemon color, medium size, not round, 
but having a sharp ridge running the whole length of the fruit, of 
fine, firm flesh, and rare flavor. The ripening season begins in 
January, is at its height in March, and the supply diminishes 
towards midsummer, though in some localities the miit ripens con- 
stantly, and may thus be had the year round. They are often 
served whole on a margin of green leaves, the colors contrasting 
very prettily, or mixed with oranges, the red ones being especially 
used thus ; but it is considered by some much better taste to peei 



294 



FRUIT. 



them, and, if very large, cut in two lengthwise, or crosswise if long 
and not very large round. Serve neatly placed on a napkin in fruit 
dish. 

Baked Bananas. — Peel a dozen bananas and split in halves 
lengthwise. Lay these strips closely in baking-pan, strew sugar 
and bits of fresh butter over, and grate in a little nutmeg. Bake in 
a moderate oven about twenty minutes. They should come out 
glazed, and if not syrup enough in the pan, a little should be mixed 
in a cup to baste them with. Serve as a last course with cake and 
milk. 

Fried Bananas. — Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, 
sprinkle with sugar, and serve. Thus prepared they make a nice 
dessert. The bananas must be quite ripe. 

Bananas and Cream. — Slice the bananas crosswise — not too 
thin — scatter powdered sugar over, and before it dissolves squeeze 
the juice of several oranges over them, or oranges maybe cut up 
and mixed with them, or the bananas may be served with cream 
and sugar alone. Very nice for tea. They make an agreeable 
dessert with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
poured over them. A tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and stirred 
into the cream, gives a little body to it. Serve with sponge cake. 

Blackherry Trifle. — Stew one quart blackberries with one 
quart sugar and a half cup water. They should cook only fifteen 
minutes. When cold, serve with powdered cracker and sugar and 
cream. The cracker and berries should be in separate dishes. 

Cherries. — This fruit may be very elegantly served for dessert 
by picking in clusters on the twigs with a few leaves on each. An 
hour before dinner place them in the refrigerator, and when taken 
out they will be found not only refreshingly cool, but covered with 
moisture like dew. Or treat the clusters simply in same way. 
If served plain send to table heaped on saucers or glasses of 
pounded ice, one for each guest, and pass sugar with them. Or 
arrange in pyramid on a glass dish. Both red and yellow varieties 
should be obtained for this if possible. 

Cherry Compote. — Secure red cherries because of their piquant 
flavor, and be sure to have only perfect fruit. Do not stem them, 
but shorten the stems with the scissors. Put the fruit in a preserv- 
ing kettle with white granulated sugar in the proportion of a 
quarter pound sugar to every pound fruit, and add juice of one 
lemon to same quantities; put over slow fire ^nd boil three 
minutes, removing all scum and shaking occasionally ; take out 
fruit with a spoon, put in a bowl and carefully drain off* all syrup, 
which should be reduced by further boiling. To thicken the syrup 




FRUIT, 295 

a little isinglass or gelatine may be used, but it is better without, as 
the thin jelly of pure sj'rup is beautifully transparent. Pour this 
syrup or jelly into a dish to cool, and when ready to serve the com- 
pote pile the cherries in a pyramid and turn the syrup over them. 
Or, prepare cherries the same, take four tablespoons sugar and a 
pint water to one quart cherries, put in a saucepan, let boil, and 
skim ; add a half cup raspberry juice, put in the cherries and cook 
until tender ; pile them on a glass dish, reduce the syrup to a thin 
jelly, and when cool pour over them. 

Cherry Sauce. — To every pound well ripened, stoned cherries 
add a half pound sugar, melted and poured over boiling hot. Put 
on ice till cold and serve. 

Currants. — Select fine large red and white currants and arrange 
in alternate rows in pyramidal form on glass dish, placing the red 
on bottom, with a border of green leaves outside, as 
shown in cut. Sprinkle liberally throughout with 
sugar, set in refrigerator until ready to serve, when 
dust fine granulated sugar thickly over, which will 
cling to the currants, that will have become damp in the 
Currant Pyramid, ice box, aud glvc a prctty frost-likc effect. Raspberries 
may be served In same way, either red and white, red and black, or 
alternate layers of each. Currants are also nice served in large fine 
clusters heaped on fruit dish, always cooling on ice before sending 
to table ; or intersperse \^ith layers of raspberries or other seasonable 
fruits. 

Gooseberry Compote, — Stew one quart berries, which should 
not be very ripe, and pour boiling water over them ; take out and 
plunge them into cold water, with which a tablespoon of vinegar 
has been mixed, which will help preserve the color of the fruit. 
Boil together half pint sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, 
skimming well ; drain the gooseberries and put them in, simmer 
gently until nicely pulped and tender, without being broken ; then 
take out on glass dish, boil the syrup two or three minutes, pour 
over the gooseberries, and serve cold. Compote of Green Gages is 
made the same, carefully stemming and stoning the fruit, which 
will cook in one-third the time required for gooseberries. 

Gooseberry Fool. — Stem the gooseberries and cut off" tops ; put 
in ajar with two tablespoons water and a little sugar, set the jar in 
a saucepan of boiling water, and let boil until the fruit is soft enough 
to mash ; or simply stew the fruit, pulp through a colander or sieve, 
and to every pint acid a pint milk, or equal quantities milk and cream. 
Sweeten Avell or it will not be eatable, and in mixing add the milk 
very gradually ; serve in a glass dish or in small glasses. This old- 
fasnioned dish is very delicious when well made, and if properly 




296 FRUIT, 

sweetened a very nice relish for children. A hoiled custard may be 
stirred in instead of the cream, and a less quantity of cream may be 
used — a gill to a quart of pul^D — stirring in carefully just before 
serving. 

Gooseberry Trifle. — Put a quart gooseberries into a jar, SAVceten 
to taste, and boil until reduced to pulp. Put this 
in the bottom of a high glass dish, pour over it 
a pint of boiled custard, and when cold cover 
Avith whipped cream. The cream should be 
whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as 
it will then be much firmer and more solid. Gar- 
nish in any manner liked, with bits of jelly, or 
sliced almonds, etc. 

Grapes.— The finest native ones are the Con- , G„osebero iri.io. 
cords, Delawares and Catawbas, the former of 
which is generally considered most desirable, and ripens about 
August 1st. The Delawares are marketed about the same time, and 
th£i Catawbas a little later. Later varieties come into market the 
last of September, and may be had during October. California 
grapes are shipped during August, Septei^ber and October, the 
finest varieties of which are the Tokays, White Muscats, Rose Peru 
and Black Morocco. These are very showy, but not of so fine a 
flavor as the fruit from the middle states. Wild grapes are abun- 
dant from September to November, but are not suited to table use 
when fresh. Foreign grapes may be had at the fruit stores through- 
out the winter. The IMalaga leads all foreign grapes, and comes 
packed in cork-dust, which is a non-conductor of heat and absorbent 
of moisture, and so is always in good condition. // left in the 
cork-dust this fruit will keep three months in prime order. When 
used rinse well in ice-water, and place on a glass dish or dishes sur- 
rounded by fine ice ; if plentiful do not divide clusters, but serve a 
bunch for each guest. 

Jellied Grapes. — A very delicate dish is made of one-third cup 
rice, two cups stemmed grapes, half cup water, and two tablespoons 
sugar. Sprmkle rice and sugar among the grapes, while placing in 
a deep dish ; pour on the water, cover closely and simmer two hours 
slowly in the oven. Serve cold at dessert. 

Florida Grape-Fruit. — This is a new, clear-skinned, lemon- 
colored fruit, about three times as large as an orange, and bearing a 
general resemblance to that fruit. Its flavor is sub-acid, but its 
juicy pulp is enclosed in a tough white membrane of intensely bitter 
taste ; when this membrane is removed the fruit is delicious. To 
prepare it for the table, cut the skin in sections and peel it off"; sep- 
arate the sections as you would those of an orange, and holding 



FRUIT. 297 

each one by the ends, break it open from the center, disclosing the 
pulp ; tear this out of the bitter white membrane which covers the 
sections, carefully removing every part of it ; keep the pulp as un- 
broken as possible, and put it into a deep dish with a plentiful 
sprinkling of fine sugar. Let it stand three or four hours, or over- 
night, and then use the fruit. It is refreshing and wholesome. 

Oranges. — The finest California oranges are known as the Cali- 
fornia Riverside varieties, including the Navals, smooth, sweet, lus- 
cious fruit, without seeds, the Mediterranean Sweets, and the Seed- 
lings. The Paper-rind is also a California Orange, small, but sweet, 
and very desirable for table use. Of the Florida fruit the Indian River 
oranges rank first, the choicest of which is the Florida Bright. The 
Florida oranges appear in market in December, and may be had in 
their perfection until about February 1st, after which date they be- 
come too ripe and spongy to be desirable. The California fruit be- 
gins ripening in December and may be had until late in June in 
excellent condition. The summer market is thus principally sup- 
plied by foreign importations, of which the Messinas and Rodas are 
the best varieties, though neither are so fine as the fruits above 
mentioned, and are liable to be dry and pulpy. The Seville orange 
is a bitter, acid fruit, used to some extent in cooking, but unfit for 
trade use. When buying oranges select from unwrapped fruit, if 
possible, those that are solid and hea\'y, with a smooth, thin skin, 
of a deep yellow red color. To remove any stale flavor absorbed 
from contact with decayed fruit, or from the odor of the box, wash 
lightly with a sponge in very cold water, dry with a soft towel with- 
out rubbing, wrap again in clean, soft paper, and put away until 
wanted for use in a closely-covered tin box or stone crock or a drawer, 
in a cool, dry closet. Lemons should be cared for in same manner. 
To serve oranges whole for breakfast or dessert cut the peel in six or 
eight equal pieces, making the incisions from the stem downward ; 
peel each piece down about half way, and bend it sharply to the 
right, leaving the peeled orange apparently in a cup, from which it 
is removed without much difficulty. For an elegant center piece 
pile the oranges so prepared in a pyramid on a high fruit dish with 
bananas and white grapes, if obtainable. They are also very nice 
peeled and sliced with seeds and pith removed, and sprinkled with 
sugar two or three hours before serving for either dessert or tea. 
Some strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. 

Orange Compote. — Peel six oranges, remove as much of the 
vv'hite pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without 
breaking the thin skin enclosing them. Make a syrup of half pound 
sugar and scant three-fourths pint water, 
skimming well, adding the rind of the orange 

^ _^^ cut into thin narrow strips. When the syrup 

^ange com^T" has bccu wcll sklmmcd and is quite clear, 

put in the pieces of orange and simmer five minutes. Take out 




298 



FRUIT. 



carefully with a spoon without breaking them and arrange on a 
glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick ; let 
cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and serve cold. For a very 
delicious compote, peel and remove the pulp of eight large oranges, 
divide as above, squeeze the juice from four more over three- 
quarters pound sifted sugar and the rind of one orange cut in strips, 
removing all the pulp. Put the pieces of orange in the syrup, boil 
about six minutes, drain, boil the syrup until it thickens, dish fruit 
and pour the syrup over. Or, peel and cut the oranges into slices 
crosswise, and remove seeds. Make a thick syrup as directed in 
apple compote, and, when cold, pour it over the sliced oranges, 
which are not cooked. 

Orange Snow. — Mix the juice of four oranges and grated peel 
of one with a large cup powdered sugar and a package gelatine, 
soaked in cup cold water; let stand an hour, add a pint boiling 
water, stirring until clear, and strain through a coarse cloth, wring- 
ing hard. When cold whip in stiffly frothed whites four eggs, place 
in a mold, which Avas lirst rinsed with water, and let stand six or 
eight hours. Some add the juice and grated peel of a lemon. 

Peaches. — The first crop marketed is from Mississippi, picked 
about May 1st. Tennessee peaches may be had in June, and Cali- 
fornia fruit appears about July 1st. The finest peaches, however, 
are grown in Michigan and Maryland, and are marketed during 
August, the supply lasting until into November. The California 
fruit is the handsomest, but not of so rich a flavor as the fine 
Yellow Crawfords from Michigan, the finest peaches obtainable, 
though some prefer the white-meated varieties, of which the Old- 
mixon Freestone and early York are the best. 

If large and perfect do not slice, but serve them whole ; wipe or 
brush off the feathery coating, arrange them neatly on the fruit-dish 
and decorate with fresh green leaves and flovv^ers. Sliced peaches 
turn a rusty brown color if allowed to stand after cutting them, and 
should be served as soon as prepared ; if necessary for them to 
stand, cover with whipped cream properly sweetened. A little lemon 
iuice brings out the flavor of all preparations of peaches, and may 
be squeezed over sliced peaches before serving. Peaches for stew- 
ing, baking, etc., may be peeled or wiped with a cloth, or brushed. 
The blanched kernels cooked with them give a much finer flavor. 

Frozen Peaches. — Pare and divide large, fresh, ripe and juicy 
peaches, sprinkle with granulated sugar and half freeze, which will 
take about an hour; remove just before serving and sprinkle with 
a little more sugar. Canned peaches and all kinds of berries may 
be prepared in same way. Or, boil heaping pint sugar, and quart 
water together twelve minutes ; then add one quart of either canned 



FRUIT. 299 

or fresh peaches, and cook twenty minutes longer. Rub through 
a sieve and when cool freeze. Take out beater and stir in pint 
cream, whipped. Cover and let stand an hour or so. Frozen Apri- 
cots are prepared same way. 

Peach Float— Take the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth ; stew six peaches until soft enough to mash, sweeten to taste 
and beat in the whites of eggs. Serve cold heaped in a dish. Apple, 
Fear and Quince Floats made same. 

Peach Tapioca. — Soak half-pint tapioca in cold water two or 
three hours, set on stove until it boils, and sweeten to taste. Peel 
and slice ripe peaches to nearly fill a baking-dish, sprinkle A\dth 
sugar, pour the tapioca over them, and bake slowly one hour. Serve 
with cream and sugar. 

Peaches and Cream. — The harder kinds of peaclies should be 
chopped to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar two or 
three hours before serving. Allow about four ounces sugar to a 
quart. Soft peaches after peeling are best eighthed or sliced. A 
nice way to serve is in large glass bowls ornamented with quarters 
of red or yellow peaches neatly placed, and a pitcher of cream with 
each bowl separately. If served individually in saucers, pour cream 
over only as they are dished up. 

Peaches in Marmalade- — Pare and halve four fine, ripe peaches 
and let them Just simmer from five to eight minutes in a syrup 
made with third of a pint water and three ounces white sugar, boiled 
together fifteen minutes ; lift out carefully into a deep dish, pour 
about half the syrup over them, and into the remaining half throw 
a couple of pounds more quite ripe peaches and boil to a perfectly 
smooth dry pulp or marmalade, with as much powdered sugar as 
the fruit may require, adding a little lemon juice. Lift the other 
peaches from the syrup, and reduce it by very quick boiling, more 
than half. Spread a deep layer of the marmalade in a dish, arrange 
the peaches symmetrically around it, and fill all the spaces between 
with the marmalade ; place half of a blanched peach kernel in each, 
pour the reduced syrup equally over the surface, and form a border 
around the dish with Italian macaroons, or, candied citron, sliced 
very thin, and cut into leaves with a small paste-cutter. The better 
to preserve their form, the peaches are sometimes merely wiped, and 
then boiled tolerabl}'- tender in the syrup before they are pared or 
split. Half a pint water, and from five to six ounces of sugar must 
then be allowed for them. If any of those used for the marmalade 
should not be quite ripe, it will be better to pass it through a sieve, 
when partially done, to prevent its being lumpy. 

Pears. — The California Bartletts are the finest to be had in the 
world, and are in market from July till October. The New York 



300 



FRUIT. 



Bartletts rank next, and have fully as good a flavor, but are not so 
large. The New York Duchess is also a choice pear — very fine for 
canning — and the Seckle, raised in both New York and California, 
is best for pickling. The Pound pear is the largest, but good only 
for canning. To serve whole, Vv^ash, if necessary, wipe dry, and ar- 
range in glass dish with green leaves; the addition of oranges has 
a pleasing effect. 

Baked Pears. — Bake washed, unpeeled pears in pan with 
only a teaspoon or two of water ; leave stems on, sprinkle with 
sugar, and serve with their own syrup. Or, for a more elaborate 
dish, pare and cut twelve pears into halves, and, should they be 
very large, into quarters ; leave the stems on, and carefully remove 
the cores. Place them in baking-dish or bean-pot with cover ; add 
one lemon rind cut in strips, and the juice of half a lemon, six 
cloves, ten pounded allspice, and sufficient water to just cover the 
whole, with sugar in proportion of a half pound to each pint water. 
Cover closely, put into very cool oven, and bake from five to six 
hours. Be very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve 
the color of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be 
added ; but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very 
gently baked. Take out in glass dish, being careful to preserve 
shape, and pour over them the juice in which they were baked. 
Serve cold, placing on ice a half hour or so before wanted. If a 
larger quantity is to be baked, pack carefully in layers with season- 
ing between. Stewed Pears may be prepared in same manner with 
same ingredients; cook slowly in porcelain-kettle on top of stove 
instead of baking. Serve as above. Or, peel the pears, leave the 
stems on, and place them whole in a stew-pan with a little water, 
sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently and add one 
glass cider, if liked, or omit both spices and cider. Some like a 
vanilla bean stewed with them. Serve cold. 

Jellied Pears. — Peel and cut four large or six small pears into 
quarters, put them into a jar Avith three-fourths pint water, cloves, 
cinnamon and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, cover 
down the top of the jar, and bake in a gentle oven until perfectly 
tender, but do not allow them to break. When done lay in a plain 
mold, which should be well wetted ; simmer three-fourths pint of 
the liquor the pears were baked in with a strip of lemon peel, strain- 
ed juice of half a lemon, and a half ounce gelatine. Let these in- 
gredients simmer well five minutes, then strain the liquid warm 
over the pears ; put the mold in a cool place, and when the jelly is 
firm turn out in a glass dish. A less elaborate way is to pare and 
quarter eight nice pears, and put in a porcelain saucepan with water 
enough to cook ; put on lid and simmer fruit gently until tender, 
then remove to a platter ; make a syrup of a pound sugar and a 



FRUIT. 301 

pint pear-water; add juice two lemons, grated rind of one, and put 
in the pears ; cook a few minutes then remove to the dish in which 
they are to be molded. Soak an ounce gelatine an hour or two in 
enough water to cover, and stir it into the hot syrup ; let boil up once 
and turn it over fruit through a strainer. The mold should be 
dipped in cold water before putting in fruit. When cold turn jelly 
into a dish and serve with whipped cream around the base, or serve 
in saucers with sweet cream. 

Pear Compote. — Make as apple compote, or cook six or eight 
canned pears in their syrup until it becomes like honey ; then re- 
move from the fire, halve and lay in a dish. Beat whites of two 
eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, and spread over the pears. Brown 
withsalamander or in oven, if desired. Or, for a Compote with Eggs , 
peel good, sound pears, cut into quarters, and take out seeds, flour 
them lightly and fry in butter. Add enough water and sugar to 
make a syrup and stew the pears until tender. Take up the pears, 
thicken the syrup with well-beaten yolks of eggs ; pour over the 
pears and serve. 

Alligator Pear Salad. — The alligator pear is a tropical fruit 
but little known, that tastes something like the American chestnut, 
and is finding its waj'- to some tables. Select green-colored fruit, as 
the black over-ripe fruit is not good. Cut the pear in two, remove 
the large seeds, pare away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into 
strips, and season with a saltspoon salt, two tablespoons olive oil, 
and a teaspoon tarragon vinegar. 

Baked Pie-Plant, — Wash, peel and cut into inch pieces, and 
place in covered baking-dish, sprinkling sugar on each layer, using 
about a teacup to a quart. The nicest thing to cook it in is a covered 
bean-pot, allowing one hour from time it is put in oven. This 
makes a delicious sauce, far superior to stewing it. If baked with- 
out a cover it will be done in half an hour, but is nicer to cover and 
confine the arpnia 

Stewed Pie-plant. — Make a rich syrup by adding sugar to 
water in which long strips of orange peel have been boiled until 
tender, put a single layer of pie-plant three inches long, and stev/ 
gently until clear. When done remove and cook another layer. 
This makes a handsome dessert dish, ornamented with puff-paste 
cut in fanciful shapes. Use one orange to two and a half pounds 
pie-plant. Some prefer to stew pie-plant in clear water, turning off 
all tne water possible when done and letting it get almost cold be- 
fore sweetening. Less sugar is required, and it is also thought to 
be much nicer. To remove the strong acid taste, and also effect a 
saving in sugar, many turn boiling hot water over it before cooking 
and let stand until cold, then turning it off; some let stand in the 




302 FRUIT. 

hot water only five minutes or so. Fried Pie-plant is also mc«. 
Fry in butter like apples, and sweeten well. 

Pine-apple. — The Strawberry is the best variety, though the 
Sugarloaf is good, of smoother exterior, fine-grained and tender, but 
not so juicy and high-flavored as the former. This fruit is so per- 
ishable that to keep even a few days it must be cooked. To prepare, 
peel and cut the fruit into dice. Throw away the core or heart, 
as it is bitter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar and place on ice some 
time before serving; many let it stand overnight, but as pine- 
apples darken by exposure to air, if wanted to look nicely, serve 
at once. Just before wanted pile high in center of fruit-dish, with 
border of sponge cake slices, lody fingers or jelly sandwiches (see 
Jellies and Jamsj, and the tuft of the pine-apple topping 
the whole. Very nice if sliced on a slaw-cutter, and some 
after paring pick the fruit from the core with a knife. A 
jdish of alternate layers of shredded pine-apple and cocoa- 
i nut, sprinkled with sugar and served with a sauce of or- 
"pjn^^pnr ange juice, is a nice dessert. Or, peel and cut a pine-apple 
into uniform slices, put in a glass dish and cover with a cup pow- 
dered sugar. Let stand to form a syrup, and just before serving 
add a half cup orange juice. To Keep. — Pare and cut out the eyes 
of a ripe pine-apple, strip all the pulp from the core with a silver 
fork ; to a pint of this add a pound of granulated sugar ; stir occasion- 
ally until sugar is dissolved, put in glass fruit-cans, and turn down 
the covers as closely as possible. This will keep a long time. 

Plums. — The California and Oregon varieties jnay be had 
through August and September, as also 
the domestic sweet plums. The Blue 
Damsons, a sour variety, come later, and 

are highly prized, many considering them ^^^^^^^^^^S^jsir 
superior to the sweet plums. The Green >»i®555^^?;?^?7?7i7™™^^ 
Gages and Imperial Gages are excellent 
for canning and preserving. To serve, they may be simply heaped 
carelessly on a border of green. 

Baked Quinces. — Core the quinces and rub them well, put in 
baking-pan, and fill core cavity with powdered sugar. Bake till 
tender and serve with sugar and cream. Or, pare, quarter, extract 
the seeds and stew in clear cold water until a straw will pierce them ; 
put into a baking-dish Avith a half cup sugar to every eight quinces, 
pour over the liquor in which they were boiled, cover closely and 
steam in oven one hour. Pour the syrup over them and serve. 
For a Quince Compote, cook as above, then take out the fruit, la^ 
in covered bowl to keep warm, return syrup to saucepan and boil 
twenty minutes ; pour over fruit and set away covered to cool. Serve 
cold. 





FRUIT. 303 

Straivberries. — If to be plainly served select large fine fruit 
with the^m on, clip the stems within an inch of the berry, and 
arrange in basket as in cut, bordering with 
leaves, and rounding the center by heaping 
up more leaves. Arrange the strawberries 
carefully, standing them on their stems, and 
"' ^^ ^ ^ *'*^'^***^^^ pass with a tiny cup (wine-glasses, egg-glasses 
"Btrawberries. Or cvcu buttcr-platcs wlll do) of powdered 

sugar to each guest. The berries are taken by the stem, dipped into 
the sugar and eaten. Never wash berries unless absolutely neces- 
sary. But if they must be washed, take a dish of cold, soft water, 
put in a few berries, and with the hand press them down into the 
water once or twice, until they look clean, then hull them. Repeat 
the process till all are hulled, changing the water often. Never 
drain in a colander. Some wash them by putting them under the 
pump in an open basket, and give them one good showering that 
passes through the berries and carries off all grit and dirt. If not 
to be eaten for an hour or more, hang the basket in the refrigerator, 
and do not hull them until the last moment, though many prefer to 
stem them and sprinkle thickly with sugar two or three hours before 
serving, while others put no sugar over them until dished at table. 

Frosted Fruits. — Most all fruits can be thus treated and make a 
delicious dessert. Whip whites of two eggs and stir in a half pound fine 
granulated sugar, beating fifteen minutes. Prepare Frosted Oranges 
by skinning oranges, removing as much of the white pith as possi- 
ble, without breaking them, passing a thread through the center of 
each, dip them into the frosting until thoroughly coated, and 
then tie them to a stick ; place the stick across the oven and let the 
balls remain until thoroughly dry, when they will have the appear- 
ance of balls of ice. Care must be taken not to have the oven so 
hot as to brown them. Send to table heaped on dish with green 
leaves around. A very pretty dessert or supper dish. Or the 
oranges may be peeled and divided into sections, removing as much 
pith as possible, whip together on a plate with a knife or fork white 
of one egg and four tablespoons water, add a dessert-spoon powder- 
ed sugar, mix all thoroughly and strain through a sieve into an- 
other plate ; dip the fruit into these, roll carefully in sifted powdered 
sugar and place on a sieve to dry. Or some use the stiffly-whipped 
whites of two eggs with one tablespoon water, and proceed the same. 
Others simply beat the whites until they break, and do not use 
water. Frosted Peaches are done same as oranges, first rubbing 
off" the fuzz with a clean cloth, and when partially dry roll a 
second time in the sugar. Frosted Currants may be thus prepared 
in bunches, also Frosted Grapes^ or these may be taken on a needle 
and done singly. Frosted Cherries are also done singly on their 
stems, or in bunches. For Frosted Bananas., procure those of 



304 FRUIT. 

medium size, peel and frost whoie by brushing them over with the 
whipped egg mixture, using the pastry brush for this, and dipping 
powdered sugar over them ; or cut into nice slices, wipe dry, and 
frost as other fruits. For Frosted Pears choose small Bartlett or 
Sugar pears. Frosted Berries are nice, and any kind of berries 
may be thus served, if large, perfect and not over-ripe. Frosted 
Plums are nice also. Very pretty effects are produced by serving 
the different kinds of frosted fruits in same dish, piling the sections 
of oranges evenly in a cone in center and arranging the grapes, 
currants, etc., around the base, interspersed with green leaves, or 
with stems put into the cone at intervals, or in any way fancied. 
A pretty dish of oranges alone is made by lirst frosting one-third 
the sections, as above, then color one-third of the sugar with a few 
drops liquid cochineal, letting it dry, and rolling if it lumps ; roll 
one-third of the oranges in this, and glaze the remaining third 
according to directions for Glazing Fruits. Put together in dish, 
in rows of^each color, or in any pretty order, on a base of green 
leaves/^afe 

Frozen Fruits. — These are frozen the same as water ices, re- 
quiring more salt in freezing than ice cream. If let stand half an 
hour in the freezer on ice they will freeze easier. If in preparing 
the mixture the sugar does not dissolve entirely, which is very nec- 
essary, add more water, or, better still, juice of the same fruit, to 
just dissolve it, and then when ready, freeze. For Frozen Oranges 
take two pounds Florida oranges, first rub one-third of the oranges 
with a handful or two of granulated sugar taken from the two 
pounds sugar to be used in recipe, then peel, quarter and halve each 
quarter, take out seeds, and mix with all the sugar as above, juice 
of two lemons and one quart water. When sugar is dissolved put 
in freezer and turn slowly, so as to break the orange pulp as little as 
possible. For Frozen Strawberries mix two pounds berries and 
juice of two lemons, or for a richer flavor use oranges, let stand half 
an hour, add two pounds sugar, and after another half hour one 
quart water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, freeze, and color 
with a few drops of carmine. For Frozen Pine-apples take the 
Birdseye or Rose, prepare as for serving, cutting into dice ; mix at 
once in same proportions as strawberries, omitting the carmine. 
Frozen Bananas are prepared in same way. For Frozen Rasp- 
berries mix two pounds each berries and sugar, stir lightly once or 
twice till sugar is dissolved, add one quart water and freeze, stirring 
only enough to congeal it. If purple berries are used, put two table- 
spoons each currant juice and sugar to each pound fruit. Some 
prefer juice of lemons to that of currants. For Frozen Cherries 
bruise one dozen kernels in a mortar to a paste, and tie loosely in 
muslin. Mix two and quarter pounds cherries, having first stoned 
them, and two pounds sugar, put in kernels, let stand half an 



FKUIT. 305 

hour, add water, stir gently to dissolve sugar, take out kernels and 
freeze. The very small quantity of kernels used gives a pleasant 
nutty flavor^ and a hardly perceptible bitter taste, which is acceptable 
to most palates ; but if disliked by any it may be omitted. For Frozen 
Currants mash one and one-half pounds currants and one-half 
pound raspberries lightly, add two pounds sugar, and after half an 
hour one quart water, and when dissolved, freeze. If the fruit is very 
acid add more sugar. Frozen Peaches^ Apricots^ Nectarines 
and Plums are prepared the same, except the three latter 
are not pared. Select two pounds Avhite-fleshed peaches and rub 
off fuzz, pare, cut in half and drop at once into ice-cold water; 
when all are pared, drain quickly, and mix with two pounds 
sugar, adding one dozen kernels which have been pounded 
to a paste, and tied in a muslin bag. Add one quart water, 
and when sugar is dissolved, take out bag, chop fruit into 
dice, mix and freeze. Color faintly with carmine. Use canned 
apricots if fresh cannot be obtained. For Frozen Apples pare and 
core two pounds apples and drop into cold water. When all are 
prepared, drain, cut into dice, mix with two pounds sugar, add 
half ounce apple seeds, bruised and tied in a muslin rag, stir lightly, 
after half an hour add the water, mix well, remove bag and freeze. 
For Frozen Grapes stone and gently mash two and a quarter 
pounds fruit, mix with two pounds sugar, after an hour add one 
quart water and freeze. For a Macedoine of Fruits mix two or 
more fruits that harmonize in flavor, as orange and pine-apple, 
peach and apricot, apple and orange, plum and grape, raspberry, 
cherry and currant, strawberry and lemon. Mix in any of above 
proportions and freeze. 

Glazed Fruits. — Boil a cup each granulated sugar and water 
together half an hour (less water may be used), or until it becomes 
brittle when dropped in cold water. Pour this syrup in a bowl 
placed in hot water, and dip the fruit to be glazed in this and place 
to dry. For Glazed Oranges peel and separate into the natural 
divisions without breaking the skin. Take each piece on a skewer 
and dip into the hot syrup and then place the other end of the 
skewers in a bowl of salt, with the oranges hanging over the edge, 
that the glazing may dry perfectly, or lay them on a slightly but- 
tered plate. Plums, grapes, cherries, currants and other fruits may 
be glazed in same manner. Do not stir the syrup or it will grain, 
and it is well to add the juice of a lemon to prevent its turning to 
sugar. If it begins to grain add a little water and reheat. Or the 
syrup may be made of a pound sugar, a large half cup water, and a 
half teaspoon cream tartar. Iced Fruits are done by simply coat- 
ing with plain white iccing, made with whites of eggs and sugar, as 
for cake. 20 







306 FRUIT. 

Macedoine of Fruits. — With jelly this is a handsome dish for deS' 
sort, and seems a very elaborate one, but is quite easily prepared. Any 

bright-colored jelly, flavored nicely, will 
do for the purpose, and these are speed- 
ily prepared by means of gelatine. 
First put the mold on ice, and proceed 
to fill alternately with jelly and different 
kinds of fruits ; pour in a little jelly 
and when set arrange fruits in a circle, 
or according to taste ; pour in more 
jelly, and when it hardens put in more 

iii, _ fruit, and continue thus until full. 

"••'iniiuiiiiipiHnni^ Grapes, cherries, peaches, strawberries, 

Macedoine of Fruit.. ^^ ^^^ ivvM^, the Smaller ones on their 

stems, the larger ones cut in pieces, show off handsomely, and if 
fresh fruit is scarce, preserved or candied fruit may be used. Keep 
the jelly in a pan of hot water to prevent its hardening until used. 
When firm turn it out and surmount the whole with mixed fruits. 

Fmiit Balls. — Spread boiled rice over a cloth and lay on the 
rice cherries, berries or oranges, peeled, and as much pith as pos- 
sible removed, tie closely, boil long enough to cook the fruit, 
sprinkle with sugar and serve with syrup, or sugar and cream, or 
any sauce liked. Or, pare and core apples whole, put some sugar 
and a clove into each, put the rice around them, tie in a cloth and 
boil until tender. Serve same. 

Fruit Juices. — Mash the juicy fruits to a pulp, place on fire till 
scalding hot. Pour into a puree sieve and allow the juice to run 
through. Put into bottles or cans and seal and finish as in Canning 
Fruits by placing them in boiler of cold water and boil for twenty 
minutes. Remove from fire and allow to remain in boiler until 
cold ; then set away for use. In the case of non-juicy fruits, such 
as apples, pears, peaches, etc., put fruit in saucepan, cover with 
water, and boil to a pulp, place on a hair sieve and allow to drain 
without any pressing. Bottle this juice as above. This makes the 
clear, transparent extracts for syrups, cordials and beverages. In 
cases where the flavorings are to be used for any purpose where 
transparency or clearness is not desirable, such as for ice creams, 
fruit-ices, or bon-bons, then use not only the clear fluid but also the 
pulp, and bottle as above. 

Fruit Salad. — For platter of salad sufficient for twelve or six- 
teen take half dozen each oranges and pears, one dozen each 
peaches and bananas, pound each white and red grapes and one 
lemon ; pare the large fruits, and first cut an orange in small pieces 
and place in center of platter ; on top of or around these pieces cut 
a peach or two (according to size), then a banana, then a pear — 



FRUIT. 307 

using one's fancy in the shapes of the pieces, some round, some 
square, some oblong, etc. Wash a few of the grapes and place them 
(without stems) at different points over the layer, and dust over 
with granulated sugar, then squeeze upon it a little lemon juice. 
Now commence again with orange and proceed as before Avith all 
the fruits until platter is nicely filled and rounded with the different 
fruits. Finish with small clusters of red and white grapes (on 
stems) alternately placed around the edge of the platter and small 
thin slices of the red core of watermelon may be added with the grapes. 
If the juice accumulates too much in platter carefully dip it into a 
small pitcher, and as the salad is served pour over some juice. 
This can be made of canned fruits (adding strawberries), but doea 
not look as well. 

Fruit Toasts. — Halve and stone peaches and place each half 
inside uppermost, on thin square or round pieces of bread; 
place in bottom of well-buttered dish, with a piece of butter in each, 
sprinkle with sugar and bake a half hour in moderate oven ; when 
done, arrange carefully in a dish, pour the syrup from baking dish 
over, and serve hot. Apricots, large plums and pears are nice baked 
thus. 

Fruit in Jelly. — Put a half pint clear melted calf-foot jelly into 
a bowl ; lay in three peaches and a bunch of grapes, with the stalka 
upward ; put in three small vine leaves next, and fill up with the 
jelly; let stand overnight, then set to the brim in hot water; when 
the jelly loosens from the bowl put dish over it and turn out care- 
fully. 

Atnbrosia. — Take four each oranges and bananas, one pine- 
apple (canned may be used), quart strawberries and ten tablespoons 
grated cocoa-nut. Peel the fruit, stem the berries, and place in glass 
dish a layer of berries, then sliced pine-apples, then oranges cut in 
small pieces, taking out seeds, then bananas sliced crosswise, adding 
strawberries here and there, so that they will show through the 
dish ; now another layer of pine-apples, then bananas, then oranges, 
placing sugar between each layer and over the top, using one and 
a half pints powdered sugar. Cover with the grated cocoa-nut and over 
this place a layer of large selected strawberries. Let stand in a 
cold place for an hour or two before serving. Same can be made 
with half as many oranges and bananas, omitting cocoa-nut and plac- 
ing fruits in successive layers, not scattering the strawberries ; or take 
six sweet oranges, one pine-apple, one large cocoa-nut, grated, and 
sprinkle pulverized sugar over each la5''er. Or, use six oranges, six 
lemons, and two cocoa-nuts, or only oranges and cocoa-nuts, pre- 
pared as above. Some pour over the orange and cocoa-nuts a half 
cup each orange and lemon juice, and it is delicious added to any 
ambrosia. 




308 FRUIT. 

Melons. — These fruits are always served fresh, and should be 
thoroughly cooled by keeping on ice until just ready to send to the 
table, and are nicer if left on ice overnight. 
Garnish with flowers or green leaves, or arrange 
a border of the smaller fruits around it. The 
latter gives a very pretty effect. The Nutmeg 
Melon is the finest variety. To prepare for the 
table, wash them and wipe dry, set on the bios- 

' , , , . T 1 • r Nutmeg MeloDc 

som end, and cut ni several equal pieces irom 
the stem downward, leaving each alternate piece still attached ; the 
others may then be loosened, the upper end chpped off and the seeds 
removed, when the melon is ready to serve, as shown in cut. Or 
cut off the top of each melon, remove the seeds, fill with powdered 
ice, replace the tops and send to table as if whole. Some prefer to 
serve them cut in halves, with a lump of ice on each. This cools 
them perfectly and quicldy. As a dressing some place a table- 
spoon honey in each half, but most people hke sugar, or a sea- 
soning of salt and pepper, which is usually sent round with them. 
They are also sometimes served with a salad dressing, when rather 
insipid and tasteless, though more of a breakfast than a dinner dish. 
Melon is often sent on after the soup at dinner. For a nice Melon 
Salad pare rind from a musk or nutmeg melon and slice lengthwise ; 
cut these slices crosswise as sliced cucumbers, place in bowl, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper and add three or four tablespoons oil or a little 
melted butter. Let stand half an hour on ice, then add a pinch 
sugar and a little vinegar, spoonful at a time, simply to moisten 
without leaving any liquid in bowl. Serve as first course at break- 
fast heaped in midclle of platter, garnished with green. If a melon 
is found insipid or over ripe, scoop out the pulp by spoonfuls in- 
stead of serving in slices and pass a French dressing with it, which 
poured over the melon pulp makes a very appetizing dainty. 

Watermelons must also be tJwroughly chilled by standing on 
ice several hours and are served as fruit at dessert. The fruit may be 
cut as illustrated and sent to table on a border of green leaves, when it 
is served in slices with the rind attached ; or clip the ends of the 
watermelons, cut them across in halves, set upon the clipped ends on 
a platter, and serve the pulp only, removing it in symmetrical egg- 
shaped pieces with a spoon ; or if very large, cut across in thick 
slices, and serve in nice triangular shaped pieces t'^^f^^ 
on the rind. Some season with sugar and some B^fiiii\kT«l M 
with salt, and some not at all. Watermelons 
have been kept fresh until into the winter by 
gathering before quite ripe, wrapping in news- 
paper and packing in sawdust. watermelon. 

Chestnuts.— To boil chestnuts, shell, and put them into warm 
water, slightly salted, and cook fast fifteen niinutes. Turn ofi^ the 
water through a colander ; stir a good-sized piece of butter into the 




FRUIT. 309 

hot chestnuts, tossing them over and over until glossy and dry. Or 
put half an ounce aniseed into water enough for fifty chestnuts, and 
boil, first clipping of the points off the nuts. Serve on a hot napkin 
in deep dish. For Stewed Chestnuts^ first roast them and when 
done, shell and put in a pan with water, allowing quarter of a pint 
to a pound of sugar and two pounds chestnuts. Stew fifteen min- 
utes, adding slowly the juice of a lemon. 

Cocoa-nut — A nice dessert is made by grating a large cocoa-nut 
into a glass dish, serving with cream, preserves, jellies or jams. Co- 
coa-nut Puifs are also nice for dessert. To prepare, break a fine ripe 
cocoa-nut, lay pieces in cold water, drain and dry well, then grate and 
put in little heaps on a glass dish. Flatten the heaps in the center 
so as to make a hollow and fill with preserves. Whip a pint of rich 
cream to a froth, sweeten and flavor with lemon ; pile this on top of 
the preserves and serve. The little heaps should not be larger round 
than a dollar. To Dry Cocoa-nut^ grate three or four and put in pan 
with one cup sugar ; steam over a kettle of hot water until the sugar 
is melted ; set in the oven and stir frequently until dry. 

Salted Almonds. — Blanch shelled Jordan almonds, place in a 
bed of salt in dripping pan, put in a rather slow oven, watch care- 
fully and when browned and nicely flavored, take out. A quantity 
can be made at a time. Serve as a last course at a dinner or even- 
ing party. 

Walnuts and Ilickory Nuts. — Crack and pick from shells; 
sprinkle salt lightly over and serve mixed in same dish. All nuts are 
much more wholesome when eaten with salt. 



Dried Fruits. 



In providing a supply of fruit for winter use, every experienced 
and economical housekeeper prepares an abundance of dried fruits. 
Drying is much less expensive than canning or preserving, and fruit 
wanted for pies, puddings, etc., is better if preserved in this manner, 
while many prefer the flavor of dried peaches, when properly done, 
to that of the finest canned fruit. Time and care are both required 
in its preparation, however, to attain satisfactory results. Always 
place to dry in the open air when possible, but when much fruit is 
dried, it is necessary to have a house for the purpose. Small quan- 



310 . DRIED FRUITS. 



titles should be so arranged as to be placed near the kitchen fire when 
taken in at night or during stormy days. Those who have hot-bed 
sash, can easily arrange a drying apparatus which will dry rapidly 
and at the same time keep off insects. A hot-bed frame with a 
bottom to it, and raised above the ground, makes a capital drying 
box. The sash should be elevated at one end to allow the moisture 
to pass ofif, covering the opening with netting. Or the fruit will dry 
nicely if spread in shallow boxes or box covers, covered Avith mos- 
quito netting to prevent flies reaching it. When impossible to dry 
out of doors, the fruit may be placed on plates and dried in the oven, 
but care must be taken to prevent scorching. A recently patented 
convenience is a fruit evaporator for family use, Avhich consists of 
a rectangular pan of thick tin about two and a half feet long by four- 
teen inches wide, with a double bottom. The space between the 
bottoms is filled with hot water by means of a little pipe that pro- 
jects to the top of pan from one corner ; the fruit is placed on the 
upper bottom and the separator is set on the stove or range to keep 
the water hot. The pan can be moved about on the range, or set off 
for a few minutes if wished and the fruit dries rapidly with no dan- 
ger of burning. Methods of preparing and drying the different fruits 
are described hereafter. When thoroughly dried, put away in jars 
in dry places and cover closely, or tie up in paper sacks. The secret 
of keeping dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dry 
and cool place. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box lined with paper> 
are secure against moths. Reheating fruit, which is necessary if it 
becomes damp, makes it dark in color and impairs its flavor, and 
should be avoided if possible by keeping in a thoroughly dry place. 
When a jar or sack of dried fruit is opened, always fill a fruit can 
or small sack, and keep for present use, to avoid opening often. It 
is said that dried fruit put away with a little sassafras bark (say a 
large handful to a bushel) Avill keep for years unmolested by those 
troublesome little insects which so often destroy hundreds of bush- 
els in a single season. 

Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be con- 
verted into dry preserves by first draining them from the syrup, and 
then drying them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them 
a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate 
the fruit, while the fluid parts of the syrup gently evaporate. They 
should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, and turned every six 



DRIED FRUITS. 311 



or ei^ht hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every 
time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept dry in draW' 
ers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, 
in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. 

Fruits of every kind may be candied by first boiling them in 
syrup, then take out and dry in a pan on stove or before the fire ; 
boil the syrup to a candy, dip fruit into it once more, and set to dry. 
Put into covered boxes or patent jars it will keep a long time. 

To freshen figs, wash them thoroughly and dry on a towel and 
heat them in the oven ; take out and roll in powdered sugar. 

In selecting dried currants secure the Zante variety. They are 
not currants but a small seedless grape from the Zante Island, and 
like all candied and dried fruit, such as citron, lemon and orange 
peel, etc., should be moist, tender and w^ithout crystals of sugar on 
them. In raisins the Sultanas or Seedless, which come to us from 
Smyrna, packed in drums, and are of a light amber color, plump 
and moist, rank first for fine cakes and puddings, but the Valencia 
are cheaper and more commonly used ; for table, the loose Mus- 
catels and layer raisins are preferred ; of the latter, the Dehesia i/ayer 
is the finest, very large and fancy, the Cabinet Layer, in b'Ji>ches, 
stands second, and the London Layer third. All raisins except the 
Sultanas should be large, plump, tender and fleshy, with ,i bluish 
cast and no crystals. The California raisins have a tough skin and 
large seed, and are not nearly so desirable as foreign importations, 
but are largely used on account of the very low price. 



Candied Almonds. — Blanch any quantity of almonds, then fry 
in butter till a light brown color ; wipe nicely with a napkin, and 
put into a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, and boil to a thread 
— that is, until on taking a drop of the sugar between the finger and 
thumb it will produce a thread ; care must be taken to boil it to the 
exact candying-point ; pour it boiling-hot upon the almonds, and stir 
them till quite cold. An excellent method of preparing almonds or 
any nuts for dessert. Or simply blanch them, roll while moirft in 
powdered sugar, and place in oven to dry. 

Candied Apples. — Squeeze juice of two or three lemons into 
preserving kettle. Peel, core and slice small apples ; pnt into the 
lemon juice and shake over the fire a minute or two and set aside to 



312 DRIED FRUITS. 



absorb as much juice as possible. When quite cold, put into a syrup 
of boiling sugar and let simmer until the syrup is turned to sugar 
again. Take out the fruit and dry. Or peel Golden Pippins, or other 
nice tart apples, and put them into a sauce-pan cold water; let 
them gradually come to a boil, when remove a little from the fire, 
and as soon as they begin to soften take up and drain. To one 
quart water in which they were boiled put a pound and a half white 
sugar ; boil and skim it ; put in the apples, let come to a boil, and 
take them from syrup ; repeat this operation three or four times and 
put them on a sieve to dry, flatten thejn gently with the hands, and 
arrange them in bon-bon boxes. 

Candied Cherries. — Make a s.yrup of two pounds loaf sugar 
and one cup water and boil until thick enough to "pull," as for can- 
dy. Remove to side of range, and stir until it shows signs of gran- 
ulating, and it is well to stir frequently while cooking, to secure 
this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in 
carefully stoned cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply lie in the 
boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. 
Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad 
dish, and dry in a sunny window. Enough for two quarts cherries. 

Candied Citron. — Pare the citron, remove seeds, let lay over- 
night in a weak syrup. Next morning drain through a colander ; 
and for each pound citron, take a pound white sugar ; boil the sugar 
until quite a thick syrup is formed, then drop the citron in and cook 
down thick ; when done, pour out on plates and leave near the stove 
until dry, then sprinkle with granulated sugar and keep in glass jars. 
Lemon and orange peel can be prepared in the same way, but with- 
out laying in syrup overnight. Or, simply boil the citron in water 
until it is clear and soft enough to be easily pierced with a fork ; 
take out, put in a nice syrup of sugar and water, and boil until the 
sugar has penetrated it. Take out and spread on dishes to dry 
slowljr, sprinkling several times with powdered sugar, and turning 
until it is dried enough. Pack in jars or boxes with sugar between 
the layers. 

Candied Currants. — To candy currants it is only necessary to 
dip tlhem into syrup prepared as for Candied Cherries. They are 
made very nice by sifting powdered sugar over Avhen taken from the 
syrup. Candied Grapes and Berries prepared same way. 

Candied Lemon Peel. — Soak the peels in salt and water over- 
night ; in the morning freshen in three Avaters and boil till tender ; 
make a syrup of a quart water to a pound sugar and simmer the peels 
in it half an hour ; pour into a bowl together and let stand until next 
day, then make a syrup to cover them of a pound sugar to a pint 
water for each pound pulp, boiling till it threads ; put the peel into 



DRIED FRUITS. 



313 



the syrup, boil half an hour, take out and drain on a sieve, and as 
the candy dries, transfer to a dish to dry in a warm place. Candied 
Orange Peel prepared same way. When the orange peel is sliced 
very thick it is called Orange Citron 

Candied Peaches. — Peel and slice ripe peaches, make a thin 
syrup and boil fruit until it looks clear ; lay on a sieve to drain, 
then roll in dry brown sugar and expose to the sun ; change to dry 
dishes, dip in sugar again and leave until entirely dried and crys- 
tallized 

Candied Tomatoes. — Scald and skin pear-shaped (or any small- 
sized) tomatoes, and to eight pounds add three pounds brown sugar; 
cook without water until the sugar penetrates and they have a clear 
appearance, take out, spread on dishes, and dry in the sun,_ sprink- 
ling on a little syrup while drying; pack in jars or boxes, in layers 
with powdered sugar between. Thus put up they will keep for any 
length of time, and are nearly equal to figs. Candied Peaches may 
be prepared in same way. 

Dried Apples.— Take only good, sound fruit, pare, quarter and 
core and slice lengthwise ; spread in the sun or fruit evaporator to 
dry, or run them on strings and hang near kitchen fire. A piece of 
coarse muslin or net stretched over a frame and hung from the ceil- 
ing, may also be used for drying. When found that winter apples 
are not keeping well it is an excellent plan to begin drying at once 
to prevent waste, and despite the prejudice against drieci apples, 
the fruit so put up at home may be made with a little painstaking 
into sauce and pi:es that will be eaten with a relish in the spring 
when fruit is scarce and high. 

Dried Apple Sauce. — Look over dried apples carefully ana soak 
until tender in enough cold water to cover, allowing for swelling. The 
old-fashioned dried apjDle requires soaking overnight, or for several 
houns ; the delicate sliced dried apple, sold as "evaporated apple," 
requires only about fifteen minutes, in just water enough to cover. 
The former must be carefully washed before soaking, but the sliced 
apple is perfectly clean. Boil in the water it was soaked in, stead- 
ily and slowly, and stir often, keeping closely covered. Break up 
the dried rind of an orange for every quart of apple, and boil with 
it. AVhen soft, like jam, take off and rub through sieve. ^ Sweeten 
to taste and serve cold. Some like to season highly with cinnamon. 
To prepare quickly, soak fifteen minutes in clean warm water ; drain, 
cover with cold soft water, place on the stove, let boil slowly two to 
four hours, mash fine, sweeten and season with cinnamon very highly. 
For a nice sauce with raisins, put two pounds dried apples and one 
pound raisins in a crock with plenty of water and set on back of 
stove. Let boil slowly all day. Wlien almost done add a lemon 



'l** DKIED FRUITS. 



peeled and sliced very thin and two pounds sugar. Never add sugar 
until about five minutes before removing from the stove, otherwise 
the fruit will be toughened and hardened. A nice way of serving is 
to raise a border of dried apples prepared as in first recipe above, 
in a large dish or ice cream saucer, as the case may be, fill the hol- 
low middle with boiled custard and spread a meringue of sweetened 
and whipped whites of eggs on top. Brown with hot salamander or 
shovel. Black Apple Sauce is made with dried apples and dried 
black raspberries stewed together. Soak both separately overnight in 
water to cover. Stew the apples in Avater soaked in, until half done, 
then add raspberries, Avithout the juice, and when both are nearly- 
done sweeten to taste and simmer gently a few moments longer. 

Dried Bananas. — A method for drying bananas has been pat- 
ented in Jamaica, and they may now "be purchased in the larger 
cities. The fruit retains its flavor in a remarkable degree. The 
banana iscut in half lengthwise and dried slowly, which prevents 
fermentation and decciy. They are prepared for use as other dried 
fruits. 

Dried Blackherries. — Dry in the sun, or fruit evaporator, or in 
the oven, like apples, being careful when drying in oven not to scorch 
them in the least. Dried thus, blackberries make excellent pies and 
are better if not stewed for this purpose. If simply put in the crust 
with sufficient water and sugar and a very little flour they will be 
found to cook quickly and retain their fresh flavor in a remarkable 
degree. Some prefer, however, to dry them with sugar, allowing a 
pound sugar to eight or ten quarts berries ; put over the fire with a 
half pint water and bring slowly to boiling point ; then skim out 
berries and spread on plates to dry, pouring the juice over, a little 
on each plate Dried Rasvlerries may be prenared after either 
method. 

Dried Cherries. — Cherries may be put into a slow oven and 
thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. Be careful that 
the oven is not too hot. They should then be taken out, tied in 
bunches and stowed away in a dry place. Nice cooked with sugar 
for winter dessert. Another method of drying is to stone them and 
put into a preserving kettle with plenty of sugar, about five table- 
spoons to each quart ; simmer till the fruit shrivels, when it should 
be strained from the juice. Place the cherries in an oven cool 
enough to dry without baking them. The same syrup may be used 
to do another quantity of fruit, though some boil the syrup until 
very thick and pour it over the fruit as it dries, a little at a time. 
Pack in jars and paste paper over the top. An excellent method of 
drying both cherries and currants is to put in jars first a layer of 
fruit, then a layer of sugar, in the proportion of half a pound sugar 
to pound fruit and let stand overnight ; place them to boil, skim- 



DRIED FRUITS. 315 



ming off all scum, let boil ten or fifteen minutes, skim out and 
spread on dishes to dry in the sun, or by the fire, turning frequently 
until dry ; then place on pans in oven, stirring with the hand often 
until the heat is too great to bear. They may then be packed in jars 
with sugar, or put away in paper sacks, or stone crocks with a cloth 
tied closely over the top, and are an excellent substitute for raisins in 
puddings or mince pies. To dry cherries without sugar, stone, and 
set them over the fire in the preserving pan ; let them simmer in 
their own liquor, and shake them in the pan Put them in common 
china dishes ; next day scald again and v/hen cold put on sieves to 
dry in moderate oven. Twice heating, an hour each time, will do 
them. Put away in a box with a paper between each layer. 

~ Dried Currants. — Take one pint sugar to a pint stemmed ripe 
currants ; put them together in a porcelain kettle, a layer of cur- 
rants at the bottom ; when sugar is dissolved, let boil one or two 
minutes, skim from the syrup, and spread on plates to dry in a partly 
cooled oven. Boil the syrup until thickened, pour it over the cur- 
rants, and dry it with them. Pack in jars and cover closely. Black- 
herries may be dried in the same manner. An economical way of 
making jelly is to boil the liquid after currants are taken out, skim- 
ming well, until it becomes a jelly, and put away in jelly glasses. 

Dried Oooielyerries. — To seven pounds goosederries add a pound 
and a half of powdered sugar, strewing it over them in preserving 
kettle. Let remain over a slow fire till they begin to break, and 
then remove. Repeat this process two or three days ; then take the 
gooseberries from the syrup and spread out on sieves in the sun or 
near the fire to dry, The syrup may be used for other preserves. 
When quite dry put away in tin boxes on layers of paper. They 
will keep in this Avay all vanter, and may be used for pies, tarts, etc. 

Dried Greengages. — Procure fruit before quite ripe and leave 
stems on. Weigh, and allow a pound sugar and one-fourth pint 
water to each pound fruit, boil to a rich syrup, skim, put in the fruit 
and boil ten minutes, take from fire and drain the fruit ; next day 
boil the syrup and put in the fruit, and continue the process five or 
six days ; after draining the last time, place the greengages on a hair 
sieve and set in oven or other warm spot to dry; keep in a box, witk 
paper between each layer, in a dry place. 

Dried Peaches. — In preparing peaches for drying, if peeled at 
all do it by immersing for an instant in hot water as directed in 
Canning Fruits. It is said that in peaches, as in potatoes, the best 
of the fruit lies nearest the skin, and for this reason some never peel 
peaches for an}'' purpose but rub them thoroughly with a woolen 
cloth. Dried peaches are better when halved and the cavities sprinkled 
with sugar while drying. The fruit must be good, however, as poor 



316 DRIED FRUITS. 



fruit can not be redeemed by any process. Another excellent way 
is to dry them in the oven, and, when about half done, place in a 
crock a layer of peaches alternately with a layer of sugar ; tie papers 
over them and set away. 

Dried Peach Sauce. — Prepare as Dried Apple Sauce, but do 
not mash or season so highly. Cook in porcelain, without stirring, 
and sweeten to taste just before taking from fire. Very nice sweet- 
ened with maple sugar. 

Dried Pineapple. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, place it on 
dishes, strew over plenty of granulated sugar, and keep in a hot 
closet or very slow oven eight or ten days, turning the fruit every 
day until dry. Then put the slices on tins and set them in a quick 
oven for ten minutes. Let cool and put away in dry boxes with 
paper between each layer. 

Dried Plums. — Select perfect fruit, just ripe but not soft, wipe 
and stone and put in a porcelain kettle with a quarter pound 
sugar for every pound fruit. Heat slowly to extract the juice and 
scald thoroughly, but without boiling. Skim the plums out with a 
coarse wire skimmer and spread carefully on platters ; more plums 
may be scalded- in same syrup, and when all are done boil the syrup 
until quite thick and pour over the plums placed to dry. Dry as 
quickly as possible. Some gather plums when full grown and just 
turning color and dry them whole. Prick the fruit, to prevent burst- 
ing, put into a saucepan cold water and set on fire until at boiling 
point ; then take out, drain, and boil gently in syrup, made in pro- 
portion of one-fourth pint water to every pound sugar. If the plums 
shrink and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan, 
give them another boil and set them away. Next day add more 
sugar boiled almost to candy ; put all together in wide-mouthed jar 
and place in cool oven for two nights. Then drain the plums from 
the syrup, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over and dry in a cool 
oven. 

Prunes. — Look over and wash nice French prunes ; simmer 
gently in plenty of water, with a small stick cinnamon and a table- 
spoon strong vinegar to a pound of fruit, for at least six hours, and 
when thus thoroughly done, add just enough brown sugar to slightly 
sweeten them and thicken juice with a very little corn starch wet up 
in cold water ; or in place of vinegar use a quarter teaspoon cream 
tartar mixed with corn starch, let prunes just boil and remove from 
stove. This makes a most delicious sauce and when nearly done a 
few kernels extracted from the prune stones, dropped in the juice, 
give a delicate flavor. 

Browned Prunes. — Soak prunes overnight in cold water, boil 
until tender, not allowing them to break, and take out the pits. 



DRIED FRUITS. 



817 



Grate some chocolate, mix it with three ounces powdered sugar and 
beaten whites of three eggs. Dip the prunes one by one in the mix- 
ture, and put them, without allowing them to touch, on a buttered 
tin. Bake fifteen minutes and serve hot. 

Fruit Pastes. — These are really candied fruits in another form. 
Care must be taken in cooking not to scorch them. For an Apple 
Paste, peel and core sound, ripe apples and put in water until quite 
soft ; then rub through a puree sieve with a wooden spoon, weigh the 
pulp and put in a preserving kettle with same weight of sugar and 
boil twenty minutes ; pour out thin on plates or in molds and dry 
on a cool stove or in a cool oven. Or, put an equal weight of ap- 
ples and stoned plums into a preserving pan. Boil without adding 
any water. When the fruit begins to get soft add a pound sugar to 
each pound pulp. Boil sloAvly for an hour, and pour into shallow 
molds ; place these in a slow oven, when the preserve will dry un- 
til it resembles a Fruit Cheese. To make an Apricot Paste, take 
ripe apricots, and put them in a preserving-pan with a little sugar, 
place on the side of the fire to reduce to paste, then rub through a hair 
sieve, allowing a half pound sifted sugar to every pound pulp. Put 
'i on the fire and boil ten minutes. Spread on tins to dry. Make 
Peach Paste the same, cooking ten minutes longer. For Currant 
Paste, take either red or white currants, rub through a sieve, after 
having picked them over thoroughly ; put the mashed fruit in a 
pan over the fire, stirring until it forms a paste ; remove it, and to 
every pound pulp put one and quarter pounds fine sugar. Mix 
together, and boil twenty minutes ; spread out on tin plates, cut 
into shapes and dry. For Orange Paste, press out the juice of five 
Seville oranges, boiling the rinds until they are very soft. With a thin 
wooden or bone spoon scoop out the pulp ; pound the rinds in a mor- 
tar, as fine as possible, with half the juice of the oranges. Rub all 
through a hair sieve, and keep on the fire until it becomes like mar- 
malade. Empty it out and weigh, allowing two pounds fine granu- 
lated sugar to each pound pulp. Boil it ten minutes, spread out 
thin on tin plates or tins, and cut it to any shape ; dry it and keep 
in tin boxes. Make Lemon Paste in same manner, but do not use 
any juice. To make either Cherry or /*Zww /*as<e stone the fruit, 
boil to a jam, put through a sieve and finish as in first recipe for 
Apple Paste. These pastes may be cut into rings or any fancy 
shapes, and colored with a few drops of the usual coloring. 



81S GAMK. 



G-AME. 



Under this head are included all the edible wild animals and 
wild fowl. No market in the world is so abundantly supplied 
with this species of food as the American. The point of contrast 
between the flesh of wild animals and that of domesticated and ar- 
tifically fed ones is the greater hardness and solidity of the flesh, the 
greater proportion of solid fibre to the juices, the less proportion of 
water and fat in the juices, and the greater proportion of lean to fat. 
Hence it follows that under the same circumstances (say when both 
the wild and the tame animals have been killed within a day) the 
mastication of the flesh of wild animals is less easy, the flavor is 
more concentrated, and the proportion of flesh-forming compounds 
is greater. They are therefore strong foods, and if well digested 
are highly nutritious. Their decided flavor is also a recommenda- 
tion to invalids or others who, being satiated with ordinary food, 
need something to stimulate a defective appetite. White meated game, 
should be cooked to well-done ; dark meated game rare, and should 
always be sent to table very liot^ with hot plates. Keeping game 
renders it more tender, and brings out its flavor, and the longer it 
can be kept without tainting the better it is. This is especially true 
af the pheasant and snipe. Any game may be kept several days in 
good condition by caring for it as follows : Pick, draw and rinse 
quickly with pure cold water ; wipe dry, and rub lightly inside with a 
mixture of fine salt and black pepper. If to be kept quite a while 
put in the cavity of each fowl a piece of charcoal, or rub in- 
side and out with j)owdered charcoal, hang in a cool dark 
place and cover Avith a cloth, always hanging by the neck. Small 



<fAME. 



319 



birds, unless too many of them, may be kept in refrigerator. Char- 
coal is an admirable preventive of decomposition. If hunters would 
draw game immediately after killing and stuif with hay, until it 
could be placed in the hands of the cook, it would be found to have 
a fresher, finer flavor and would keep much longer. Of game birds 
the woodcock outranks all in delicate tenderness and sweet flavor, 
but must not be kept too long. The thigh is especially deemed a 
choice tidbit. The leg is the finest part of the snij-e, but generally 
the breast is the most juicy and nutritious part of birds. When 
birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon as possible and im- 
merse in new milk for twenty-four hours, when they will be quite 
sweet and fit for cooking. Prairie chickens will keep well two or 
three days. Birds should be carefully dry-picked if feathers are 
wished, and if the wings are wanted, cut them off at the first joint be- 
fore picking. Some then remove all feathers that come off easily, 
plunge for an instant in boiling hot water, and finish picking ; while 
others do not put in water at all. When picked, singe, draw, wipe 
clean and remove all shot. Or, a quicker, easier and much nicer way 
is to skin without picking ; if the skin is not broken make a small 
incision in the back and it will easily pull off. It is better not to skin 
ducks and geese, which should be dry-picked, scalded, and rolled in a 
woolen cloth ten or fifteen minutes ; then finish picking and scrape 
the skin if necessary. Singe, draw and dress. Singeing with alco- 
hol is much nicer and cleaner than with paper and does not darken 
the skin. Pour four or five tablespoons in a pan, light it and hold 
game over it. If more alcohol is wished, do not add till all is con- 
sumed. 

Game should not be washed, unless absolutely necessary for 
cleanliness. With care in dressing, wiping inside with a damp cloth 
wiU render them perfectly clean. If necessary to wash, do it quickly 
ind use as little water as possible. Some wash the inside of game, 
particularly prairie chickens, with soda and water, rinsing well with 
clear water, then dry with cloth. The more plainly all kinds of 
wild birds are cooked the better they retain their fine flavor. They 
require a brisker fire than poultry, but take less time to cook. Their 
color, when done, should be a fine yellowish brown. 

Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and all birds 
are exceedingly nice roasted, especially quail. To broil, split down 
the back, open and flatten the breast bone by covering with a cloth 



320 GAME. 

and pounding, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron ; turn as 
soon as browned, and when almost done take off, place on a platter, 
sprinkle with salt, and return to the gridiron. When done, place 
in a hot dish, butter both sides well and serve at once. The time 
required is usually about twenty minutes. Broiling is the simplest 
of all forms of cooking and may be done well with a little attention. 
A brisk, clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with 
ease, but if necessary to have a high fire for other cooking, elevate 
the gridiron on two bricks to prevent scorching. Have the gridiron 
very hot and butter it before putting on the birds. If the fire is not 
very clear, and a flat broiler or gridiron is used, put a cover over the 
meat to prevent blackening or burning. It is well to always do this 
with birds or chickens, which are otherwise apt to be rare at the 
Joints. It is a good plan to put birds in a hot oven about ten min- 
utes before broiling, and lay a spoonful drawn butter on the breast 
of each. If very dry dip in melted butter, or, better still, oil them 
all over before cooking. There is nothing more unsightly than a 
dish of sprawling chickens or birds, and to serve them in good form 
they should be nicely placed in the broiler, with the bones broken as 
above. 

To Roast Game. — Rub inside with salt and pepper and place a 
lump of butter in each bird. Truss the same as poultry, skewer and 
place on spit before an open fire, or, as is more usually done, roast 
in oven. Some still prefer the old way of leaving the head on and 
tucking under the wing, but this is not much practiced now. Cut 
ofi'the head, push the skin down and cut ofi'the neck, then draw the 
skin smoothly over and fasten to the back. The flavor is best pre- 
served without stuffing, but a plain bread-dressing with a piece of 
salt pork or ham skewered on the breast is very nice. A delicate 
way of dressing small birds is to place an oyster dipped in the well- 
beaten yolk of an egg or in melted butter, and then rolled in bread 
crumbs, inside each bird. Allow thirty minutes to roast, or longer 
if stuffed. Wild ducks, pheasants, prairie chickens and grouse are 
always best roasted. Do not sprinkle the outside of game or any 
meat with salt or pepper before putting in oven, as salt draws out 
the juices, the flavor of pepper is entirely changed by the parch- 
ing on the surface, and it also emits an unpleasant odor. This ap- 
plies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper the bird after it is 
cooked, using white pepper. Baste often, every five or ten minutes. 



GAME. 321 

with melted butter, hot water and butter or the drippings in the 
pan, and to give a handsome frothy appearance, when nearly done 
baste with butter, dredge over with flour and brown, baste with but- 
ter again, close the oven a few moments and the bird will come out 
beautifully finished. Use an empty spice-box with perforated top 
for dredging and a brush or spoon for basting ; the brush is espe- 
cially nice for putting over the melted butter in frothing. To keep 
hot while making the gravy, place in a pan on a trivet in the oven, 
or in a colander lined with soft paper, and if in danger of becoming 
too brown, cover with another pan, or a paper cap kept for the pur- 
pose. Larding game is a very nice way of preparing it for roasting, 
and will be found fully described in Meats. 

To Steam Game^ prepare as for roasting, place in steamer and 
steam until tender. The length of time will of course depend upon 
size and kind of game. When tender put in oven to brown, baste, 
and finish as in roasting. As the meat of most game is rather dry, 
this is an excellent mode of cooking, the steaming making it more 
moist. 

To Fry Game, prepare small birds as for roasting, and cut up 
the larger ones. Small birds may be double-breaded (see Croquettes ) 
and dropped whole into hot fat, others cut up and fried in joints. 
Pigeons and the birds of coarser flesh will need to be parboiled if 
fried thus. Half drippings and half lard make a good frying mixture. 
Some prefer to roll game in corn meal and fry in butter, or half but- 
ter and half drippings, in frying pan, and it is excellent either way 
but presents a finer appearance when fried by immersion. 

Pigeons should be cooked a long time, as they are usually quite 
lean and tough, and they are better to lie in salt water half an hour, 
or to be parboiled in it for a few minutes. Wild duck should be 
cooked rare, with or without stufl'ing. If the "wild flavor" of the 
\arger birds, such as pheasants, prairie chickens, etc., is disliked, 
they may be soaked overnight in salt water, or two or three hours 
in soda and water, or parboiled with an onion or two in the water, 
and then cooked as desired. The coarser kinds of game, such as 
geese, ducks, etc., may lie in salt water for several hours, or be par- 
boiled in it with an onion inside each to absorb the rank flavor, and 
afterwards thoroughly rinsed in clear water, stufied and roasted ; or 
pare a fresh lemon without breaking the thin, white, inside skin, 
put inside the game for a dav or two, renewing the lemon every 
21 ' 



322 mAme. 

twelve hours. This will absorb unpleasant flavors from almost all 
meat and game. Some lay slices of onion over game while cook- 
ing, and remove before serving, and others baste two or three times 
at first with hot water, to which an onion and a little salt have been 
added. Use plenty of butter in cooking. In preparing fat wild 
ducks for invalids, it is a good plan to remove the skin, and keep a 
day or two before cooking. Squirrels should be carefully skinned 
and laid in salt water a short time before cooking ; if old, parboil. 
They are delicious broiled, and are excellent cooked in any^way 
with thin slices of bacon. Venison, as in the days of good old Isaac, 
is still justly considered a "savoury dish." The haunch, neck, 
shoulder and saddle should be roasted ; roast or broil the breast, 
and fry or broil steaks with slices of salt pork, and it may be cooked 
in almost the same manner as beef, but requires longer cooking, 
must be sent to table very hot, and is generally preferred very rare. 
Venison is not so delicate when fresh as after it has been kept from 
three to eight days. When not consumed at once keep in a dark 
cool cellar with a cloth round it. The hams are excellent pickled, 
smoked and dried, but they will not keep so Long as other smoked 
meats. French cooks improve the flavor of venison by putting the 
meat in a jar for several days with one pint vinegar to every six 
pounds meat, two bay leaves, two cloves, some garlic and onion 
sliced, thyme, parsley and whole pepper-corns. Let this mixture 
boil once, then pour it over the meat, and turn occasionally while it 
stands in the jar. Cutlets prepared this way are much better. The 
seasonings are spread over them, they are then wrapped in buttered 
paper and broiled over a quick fire. 

Bear meat, especially the flesh of young bear, nearly resembles 
a good quality of beef, and may be fried, broiled, roasted, or cooked 
like beef in any way preferred. Many lard it for roasting, and the 
time required is about twenty minutes to the pound. The meat of 
young buffalo is also much like that of fat beef and may be cooked 
as fresh beef. 

Any kind of game may be hashed and the flavor may be varied 
by adding flavored vinegars, curry powder, etc. ; but we do not 
recommend these ingredients, as a dish of game should really taste 
of game ; and if too many sauces, essences, etc., are added to the 
gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavor. In warming 
over cold game, do not cook too long — merely heat through or bring 



GAME. 323 

to the boil, but do not boil. In serving game the beauty of the dish 
is greatly enhanced by a garnish of green leaves, or other things 
mentioned with the recipes, but this is not a necessity. Epicures 
generally do not consider game ripe for cooking until more or less 
tainted, and prefer it cooked very rare, barely more than warmed 
through. Small birds are also often roasted or made into pies with- 
out drawing, or removing the trail as it is called, and are esteemed 
very dainty by the epicures, among whom, however, are numbered 
very lew of our excellent American housekeepers. 



Broiled Wild Duck. — Carefully pluck a pair of ducks, singe, 
wipe them with a wet towel, split down the back, and remove the 
entrails without breaking ; put the birds between the bars of a but- 
tered gridiron, place the inside to the fire, and broil them until 
brown ; then brown the outside, season with salt and cayenne, put a 
very little butter over the birds, and serve with orange salad or jelly. 
For Baked Wild Duck prepare in same manner and bake in hot 
oven till tender, placed in a dripping pan with a little butter. When 
half done season with salt and just before removing from oven pep- 
per and serve with the gravy from pan and a dish of currant jelly 

Hashed Wild Duck. — Cut remains cold roast duck into neat 
joints, put them into a stewpan with one pint good brown gravy, 
two tablespoons bread-crumbs, salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to 
taste and a tablespoon lemon or Seville orange juice ; let them heat 
gradually, stirring occasionally; when on the point of boiling, serve, 
and garnish the dish with croutons of toasted bread. 

Roast Wild Duck.— The peculiar flavor of wild ducks is not 
liked by many and may be removed by parboiling with a carrot or 
an onion before roasting, having first singed them, wiped well the in- 
side with wet towel and cut off head. When tender stufif with a 
bread-dressing seasoned with salt, pepper, onion and sage ; roast be- 
fore a brisk fire or in oven, basting often, until brown and tender. 
When the ducks are taken up, skim and thicken the gravy with 
browned flour and send to table in a tureen. Serve currant or grape 
jelly with the ducks. Instead of the stuffing, a simple dressing of 
parboiled onions mixed with chopped sage, salt, pepper and a good 
slice of butter may be employed, or stuff with chopped celery or 
mashed potatoes and when brown season with salt and pepper. It 
will take about three-quarters of an hour to roast ducks well; 
twenty minutes will do them rare. When preferred rare it is 
best not to stuff them. Cut an onion in two and put in the 
body, then truss or bind, dredge with salt, pepper and cloves and 
roast in quick oven thirty minutes or before a hot fire forty, basting 



324 GAME. 

often. Serve with currant jelly or equal parts currant jelly and dry 
mustard mixed, or with garnish of fried hominy and currant jelly, 
or apple sauce and green peas. Teal can be cooked like Wild Duck. 
Many cooks stuff them with a bread and onion dressing, but this 
spoils their flavor ; it is better to serve an onion and bread sauce 
with them, if liked. The birds should be quickly roasted or baked 
in a hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes, as they are liked 
medium or Avell done. Season with pepper and salt and serve a 
sliced lemon or fresh green salad with them. 

Stewed Wild Duch. — Cut up and parboil fifteen minutes with 
a carrot or onion ; cut into joints, put in a stewpan and cover with 
a gravy made of the giblets, neck, etc. ; season with salt and pepper, 
a bunch sweet herbs and chopped onions, and stew gently till done. 
Take up the meat, thicken the gravy with browned flour, boil up 
once, pour over the duck and serve immediately. Or for a Stew with 
Green Peas^ parboil, or half roast, then put into a stewpan with a 
pint water, or beef gravy, a few chopped mint and sage leaves, pep- 
per, salt and half an onion chopped very fine. Cook fifteen minutes 
and skim out the herbs ; then add a quart green peas and cook half 
hour longer. Stir in a tablespoon each butter and flour, boil up 
once, and serve with the duck in center of dish and peas around". 
Some prefer to cook the peas separately and serve rounded up in 
center with the joints around. Some stuff and roast the ducks 
twenty minutes then take out and stew as above. Duck Stewed with 
jRice is liked by many. To prepare, quickly brown the duck in a 
hot oven ; meantime peel an onion, chop it fine, and put into a 
saucepan with heaping tablespoon butter ; when the duck is brown, 
cut in joints, put with the butter an onion, and fry all together till 
the onion is brown ; then stir in a tablespoon flour and brown it, 
add a pint of boiling water, a high seasoning of salt and pepper, and 
half a cup of rice which has been picked over and washed. Cover 
and cook all gently half an hour, being careful not to burn. If rice 
absorbs all the water, add more as required, but do not make very 
moist. When both rice and duck are tender, serve them together. 
The remains of a cold roast duck may be made into a stew with a 
pint gravy and a little sage ; cover closely, and simmer half an hour ; 
add a pint boiled green peas, stew a few minutes, remove to a dish, 
and pour over it the gravy and peas. 

Boast Wild Goose.— Dry pick, as feathers are especially choice, 
and if possible pick clean, as meat is nicer if not scalded, but if all 
cannot be removed, plunge in boiling water, wrap quickly in a 
woolen cloth and let stand fifteen minutes, when finish picking and 
scrape with a knife to better clean the skin, singe with alcohol, draw, 
wash or wipe clean and parboil with an onion inside (a large onion to 
an eight-pound goose) in slightly salted boiling water till commenc- 
ing to be tender, half an hour for a young goose, longer if an old one. 
Take out, rub inside with salt and pepper and stuff with a Bread- 



GAME. 



325 



Dressing as given in first recipe for Roast Turkey, or as follows : 
Quart finely minced bread-crumbs, tablespoon minced onion, level 
teaspoon each salt, pepper, sage and chopped parsley if liked, one 
egg, half cup warm water, half cup butter or fat from fried sausage; 
mix ingredients all together in a pan, not making the dressing 
too moist, as it will absorb gravy while baking. The egg should be 
first mixed with the water. Or stuff with a Potato- Dressing made 
as follows : Mash six boiled potatoes through a colander, and add 
two teaspoons each butter and onion juice, and one each salt, white 
pepper and sage ; or first chop an onion and fry a light yellow in the 
butter, and add the potato and a well-beaten egg. Or for an Onion- 
Dressing^ peel four large onions, put into boiling water, let simmer 
five or ten minutes and just before they are taken out put in ten 
sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness, skim out 
and chop very fine, add quarter pound bread-crumbs, seasoning, and 
two tablespoons butter, and work the whole together with yolk of 
an egg, when the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather 
highly seasoned, and many do not parboil the onions, but merely 
use them raw. The stuffing then is not nearly so mild. ^ This is 
nice for either goose, ducks or pork. If for goose add the liver, first 
simmered a few moments and then very finely minced. Or, boil in 
water to cover four apples, peeled and cored, four onions, sage and 
thyme leaves. When done, pulp through a sieve, removing leaves ; 
then add enough pulp of mealy potatoes to cause stuffing to be so dry as 
not to stick to hand. Season with pepper and salt. For a Fruit- DresS' 
ing^ stew one pound prunes as in recipe for stewed prunes, using as lit- 
tle water as possible, and add to them same quantity of tart apple sauce 
and a few raisins i£ liked, and let stew together till quite dry, adding 
sugar to taste ( some prefer twice as much apple sauce as prunes ) ; stuff 
as above or, when bread-dressing is used, it is very nice to garnish with 
spoonfuls of this around the goose ; or omit prunes and use teacup 
raisins, using raisins also in the gravy ; or take three quarters pound 
pulp of tart apples, which have been previously baked or steamed, 
add two ounces bread-crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely chop- 
ped onion, and season with a little cayenne pepper. After goose is 
stuffed, sew up and tie in shape as described in recipe for roast tur- 
key. Place in oven on dripping pan, on a trivet or pieces of hard 
wood, with a little of the water in which goose was parboiled ; put 
bits of butter or slices of fat salt pork over the goose, and to make 
extra nice, unless very fat, add a little butter to the drippings each 
time of basting, which will want to be every ten minutes, adding 
more of the parboiled water as needed. Where the onion flavor is 
an objection, simply put hot water in the roasting pan. When al- 
most done baste with melted butter, dredge with flour^ let brown, 
then a little more butter till nicely frothed and browned. Some 
claim that a specially nice way to roast is to begin by basting with 
a teacup cider; then, when it begins to warni; dredge with flour; 



326 GAME. 

afterwards baste with its own fat and gravy, mixing with the cider. 
In either way, when browned, place in pan in oven, as directed, till 
gravy is made, using the giblets in the same manner, if good, 
as for Roast Turkey, adding also the parboiled water from the goose. 
Those liking onion flavor can slice onion when used in parboiling, 
putting some slices inside goose and some in kettle, and leave all in 
the water for the gravy. Place goose on hot platter, made hot by 
pouring hot water upon it, being careful to pour in center first ; gar- 
nish with a border of baked, cored, tart apples, being careful not to have 
them bursted. Always serve apple sauce with goose. Wild Buck can 
be prepared in same way. Goose, duck and all game, being rather 
dry, are especially nice larded, but placing pieces of salt pork on 
them while cooking answers the same purpose, but does not present 
the handsome appearance when served as does a Larded Goose. 

Grouse Pie. — Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound rump- 
steak cut into neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them 
into joints ; but if small, they may be laid in the pie whole ; season 
highly with salt, cayenne, and black pepper ; pour in a half pint 
broth, and cover with a puff paste; brush the crust over with the 
yolk of an egg, and bake 'about an hour. If the grouse is cut into 
joints, the backbones and trimmings will make the gravy, by stew- 
mg them Avith an onion, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace ; this 
should be poured in after the pie is baked 

Grouse Salad. — Boil eight eggs hard, throw them into cold 
water and shell, cut a thin slice off the bottom so they will stand in 
dish, cut each one into four pieces, lengthwise, and make a very thin 
flat border of butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the 
salad is to be served on ; place the pieces of egg upright, close to 
each other, the yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately ; lay 
in the center a fresh green salad of whatever is in season, and, hav- 
ing previously roasted the grouse rather underdone, cut it into 
eight or ten pieces, and prepare the sauce as follows ; Put one 
tablespoon chopped shallot or onion into a bowl with two table- 
spoons sugar, the yolk of an egg, a teaspoon minced parsley, tea- 
spoon and half salt, and stir in gradually four tablespoons Chili 
vinegar and twelve of oil ; when all ingredients are well mixed put the 
sauce on ice or in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip four 
tablespoons cream rather thick, which lightly mix with it ; then lay 
inferior parts of grouse on the salad, put sauce over so as to cover 
each piece, then add more salad and the remainder of the grouse, 
pour the rest of the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be orna- 
mented with a little dot of radishes or beet-root on the point. An- 
chovy and gherkin, cut into small diamonds may be placed be- 
tween ; or cut gherkins in slices, and use as a border. The remains 
of Cold Pheasant or Partridge may be used in same manner, and 
will make a verv delicate dish. 



GAME. 327 

Roast Hare. — Have the hare skinned and well cleaned, stuff as 
fowl, with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, chopped fat pork, a little 
sweet majoram, onion, pepper and salt, just moistened with hot 
water. Sew up with fine cotton, tie legs closely to the body in a 
kneeling position, lay in dripping-pan, back uppermost, pour two 
cups boiling water over it, cover with another pan and bake, closely 
covered — except when basting with butter and water — for three quar- 
ters of an hour. Uncover, baste freely with the gravy until nicely 
browned; dredge with flour and baste with butter until a fine 
froth appears on the surface. Take up hare, put in another pan on 
a trivet or rack and place in oven while gravy is being made. Skim 
that left in the pan, add water if necessary, season, thicken with 
browned flour, stir in tablespoon currant jelly and some chopped 
parsley, boil up, pour a few spoonfuls of it over the hare, and serve 
the rest in a gravy-boat. Clip the threads and send the hare in with 
currant jelly around it, as this is an indispensable accompaniment. 
Some baste well with milk for a short time, and afterwards with but- 
ter, basting often so as to preserve the meat on the back juicy and 
nutritive. When it is almost roasted enough, flour the hare, and 
baste well with butter. When nicely frothed, dish, remove the twine, 
and send to table with a little gravy in dish, and a gravy-boat of same. 
For economy, good beef dripping may be substituted for milk and 
butter in basting, which must be continued almost without inter- 
mission. If liver is good, it may be parboiled, minced, and mixed 
with the stuffing ; but it should not be used unless quite fresh. The 
jack Rabbit of our western prairies is said to be closely akin to the 
much prized English hare and equally as fine eating. Some broil 
slightly over the coals, to give firmness to the flesh, then cover with 
shces of fat pork from the neck to the legs, roast it for an hour, 
and serve with sharp sauce to which has been added the chopped 
liver. 

Hashed Partridge. — Take three partridges and after they are 
plucked and drawn, roast rather underdone, covering with paper, 
as they should not be browned ; cut into joints, take off the skin 
from the wings, legs and breasts; put these into a stewpan, cov^er 
and set by until gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small 
pieces, and put into a stewpan with a sliced carrot, three or four 
mushrooms, three sliced shallots, a bunch of savory herbs, two 
cloves, and six whole peppers, and fry lightly in a little butter, pour 
in three-fourths pint stock, add the bones and trimmings from the 
partridges, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain the gravy, let cool, 
and skim off every particle of fat ; put it to the legs, wings, and 
breasts; let all gradually warm through on back of stove, and 
when on the point of boilin^« serve, garnishing the dish with crou- 
tons. The remains of roast partridge do very well dressed in this 
way, although not so good as when the birds are only half roasted. 



GAME, 




Partridge Pie. — Line a deep pie dish with veal cutlets and over 
them place a slice of ham and seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, 
draw and wipe the partridges, cut off legs at first joint and season 
inside with salt, pepper, minced parsley and a small piece butter, 
place in dish and pour in half pint any stock, or water and table- 
spoon butter will do ; line edge with pufF-paste and cover with same, 
bake three-quarters of an hour, brush over with the Roll Glaze or 
simply a yolk of egg and bake fifteen minutes longer. If partridges 
are large, split in two. 

Roast Pheasant. — The bird should be carefully plucked, drawn 
and singed, then stuff with a dressing made as follows : Take two 
snipes and draw them, putting the bodies on one plate, and the liv- 
ers, etc., on another. Take off the flesh and mince it finely with a 
little beef, lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt 
to taste, and stuff the pheasant carefully with 
this. Cut a slice of bread larger than the bird, 
and cover it with the liver, etc., a few truffles, __„,^,,,,__, 
with an anchovy and a little fresh butter added, Roast pheasam. 

if liked. Put the bread thus prepared into the drijDping-pan and 
when the bird is roasted place it on the preparation, and surround 
with Florida oranges. Boast Prairie Chickens and Partridges 
are equally delicious. 

Pheasant Cutlets. — Procure three young pheasants that have 
been hung for a few days ; pluck, draw and wipe them inside ; cut 
into joints ; remove the bones from the best of these ; put the back- 
bones, trimmings, etc., into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, 
vegetables and seasoning to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the 
cutlets to a good shape, egg and breadcrumb them, broil over a clear 
fire, pile high in a dish, and j^our under them the gravy made from 
the bones, which should be strained, flavored and thickened. One 
of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet. 

Pigeon Pie. — Make either a fine puff paste or a rich baking 
powder crust, as liked ; lay a border of it around a large dish, and 
cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a very tender steak free from 
fat and bone ; season with salt, cayenne pepper and mace. Prepare 
as many pigeons as can be put in one layer in the dish ; put in each 
pigeon a small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt ; 
lay them in the dish breast downwards, and cut in slices ahalf dozen 
hard boiled eggs, and put with them ; put in more butter, some veal 
broth and cover the whole with crust ; bake slowly an hour and a 
half. The pigeons may first be fried a light brown in butter. Or 
split the birds and cut in quarters and put in first a layer of steak, 
then one of pigeons and then one of sausage meat highly seasoned 
with salt, pepper, and powdered allspice, then another layer of each 
until all are used. Pour in just enough hot water to moisten and 



GAME. 329 

cover the pie with crust, wetting the edges to make them adhere ; 
cut little slits in the crust to permit the steam to escape ; brush the 
crust with beaten egg and bake in moderate oven two hours. For 
another excellent pie take about eight pigeons or other small birds, 
and make a stuffing of bread and onions. Stuff each bird, then put 
into a stewpan about a tablespoon lard, and a dessert-spoon flour 
and brown nicely ; cut a small onion very fine and fry it, adding 
the birds which should fry awhile before putting a pint of water 
over them, and let them boil until done. Take them out ; add about 
two dozen oysters, with a little of the oyster-water, to gravy, a table- 
spoon butter, salt, black pepper, allspice, and nutmeg ; line a bak- 
ing-dish with pastry, put the birds in with the gravy, cover with the 
pastry and bake. 

Pot-Roast of Prairie Chickens. — Skin, draw, wash, wipe dry, 
tie in shape without stuffing, and parboil in water to cover ; cook till 
tender, adding more water if necessary. Take out chicken and pour 
broth in crock to keep for gravy. Put two tablespoons butter in ket- 
tle, let brown, put in chicken and keep turning it till nearly browned, 
about five or ten minutes, then add pint broth in which it was par- 
boiled, put on cover and let cook till almost dry, then add more 
broth, season with salt and pepper and keep cooking and adding 
broth till chicken is done, and there is a pint of rich brown gravy 
left in kettle. Take out chicken, put in pan in oven to keep hot, 
and make a Sotir Cream Gravy by adding one pint sour cream, and 
one tablespoon baking molasses. Thicken with a tablespoon flour 
stirred smooth in a little cream, either sweet or sour, let boil five 
minutes and then serve chicken on hot platter, garnished, if liked, 
with parsley, and gravy in gravy boat. Pheasants, Quail, Buck, 
Spring Chickens and any small game are nice cooked as above, and 
the gravy can be made in same way where game is roasted in oven. 

Roast Prairie Chickens. — Skin or pluck them, as preferred, cut 
off head and feet, and draw without breaking intestines, wash, and 
for each bird put a tablespoon finely chopped onion in a frying-pan 
over the fire with two heaping tablespoons finely-chopped salt pork 
or butter ; as soon as the onion is brown add a heaping cup soft 
bread-crumbs, a level teaspoon each salt and any powdered sweet 
herb except sage, a saltspoon pepper, and a tablespoon butter ; use 
this as soon as hot for stuffing the birds, and either put them 
before a good fire to roast, or in a dripping-pan set in a not oven ; 
cook about half an hour, basting occasionally with drippings from 
them ; when done keep hot while a gravy is made as follows : Place 
the dripping-pan over fire ; for each bird stir in a level tablespoon 
flour until it is brown, and then gradually stir in a scant pint Doil- 
ing water ; season the gravy palatably with salt and pepper, let boil 
two or three minutes, and serve with the birds. Garnish with sprigs 
of parsley alternated with currant jelly. A delicious sauce can be 



330 GAME. 

made by mixing half a glass currant jelly for each bird with the 
drippings in the pan, and stirring the sauce over the fire until it 
boils to the proper consistency; another excellent cold sauce is 
made by mixing a tablespoon dry mustard thoroughly with a glass 
of currant jelly. Plain boiled potatoes, or potatoes re-warmed, with 
butter, salt and pepper, may be served with the birds. Roast Pheas- 
ant and Par'tridge the same way. 

Steamed Prairie Chicken. — ^Wash thoroughly but quickly, 
using some soda in the water, rinse and dry, fill with dressing, sew 
up with cotton thread, and tie down the legs and wings ; place in a 
steamer over hot water till done, remove to a dripping-pan, cover 
with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, place 
in the oven and baste with the melted butter until a nice brown ; 
serve with either apple sauce, cranberries, or currant jelly. 

Stewed Prairie Chicken. — Cut in joints, put over the fire in a 
saucepan with butter and brown quickly ; for each bird add half a 
glass currant jelly, level teaspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper and 
sufiicient boiling water to cover ; cook slowly until tender, adding a 
little more water if necessary, and serve them on toast, with the 
gravy from the pan poured over. Or, put about tablespoon butter, 
and two of salt pork, cut into bits, in a saucepan, and set on 
quick fire ; when butter is melted put the bird in, and brown it all 
round ; then add four small onions, half a carrot in slices, salt and 
pepper, stir till onions and carrots are partly fried ; then add a pint 
of good broth and a bunch of sweet herbs ; boil gently till done. 
Dish the bird, strain the gravy over it, and serve hot. 

Salmi of Prairie Chickens. — This is an excellent way of serv- 
ing the remains of roasted game ; but when a choice dish is desired, 
the birds must be scarcely more than half roasted. In either case 
cut up neatly, and strip every particle of fat and skin from the legs, 
wings, and breast ; bruise the bodies well, and put them with the 
skin and other trimmings into a stewpan ; add two or three sliced 
shallots or onions, small blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns ; 
pour in a pint or more of good veal gravy or strong broth, and boil 
briskly until reduced nearly half; strain the gravy, pressing the 
bones well to obtain all the flavor, skim off the fat, add a little cay- 
enne and lemon juice and heat the birds very gradually in it with- 
out allowing it to boil ; place bits of fried bread round a dish, 
arrange the birds in the center, give the sauce a boil, and pour it 
over them. Partridges and other wild-fowl can be proptired in 
same way. 

Fried Quail. — Split open on the back and boil x^r.iW. tender ; 
have an equal quantity butter and lard hot in fryhig-pan, put_ in the 
birds and fry a nice light brown. Lay the quaii on slices of 



GAME. 331 

toasted bread and pour over them a nice gravy made in pan. 
Pheasants may be cooked in same way, served on platter without 
toast. 

Roast Quail. — Pluck and dress like chickens, wij)e clean, and 
rub both inside and out with salt and pepper ; stuff with any good 
dressing, and sew up wdth fine thread ; spread with butter and place 
in an oven with a good steady heat, turning and basting often with 
hot water seasoned with butter, salt and pepper ; bake three-quar- 
ters of an hour. When about half done add a little hot water to the 
pan, and it is well to place a dripping-pan over them to prevent 
browning too much. Add to the gravy, flour and butter rubbed to- 
gether, and water if needed. Or, when cleaned, cover the birds with 
thin slices of ham or bacon and then v/rap in grape leaves or tie in 
buttered paper, place in pan with piece of butter size of hazelnut 
and baste well, adding very little water. While the quail are baking 
cut as many square pieces of bread as there are birds, fry in hot 
lard, put on dish, and when done, lay the birds on them, removing 
the twine which holds the legs, and the paper. Some prefer to re- 
move the papers to brown the birds before taking up. Turn the 
gravy, thickened with the quail livers pounded to a paste, over the 
birds ; decorate the dish with water-cress sprinkled with vinegar or 
lemon juice. Or send to table with a plate of fried bread-crumbs 
and bread sauce in a tureen. In serving put a quail on each plate, 
pour over a tablespoon of the sauce, and on this place a tablespoon 
crumbs, or the sauce-boat and plate of crumbs may be passed separ- 
ately. To make the sauce, roll a pint dry bread-crumbs, and pass 
half of them through a sieve. Put a small onion into a pint milk, 
and when it boils renrove the onion, and thicken the milk with the 
half pint sifted crumbs ; take it from the fire, and stir in a heaping 
teaspoon butter, a grating of nutmeg, pepper and salt. To prepare 
the crumbs, put a little butter into a saucepan, and when hot throw 
in the half pint of coarser crumbs which remained in the sieve ; stir 
over the fire until they assume a light brown color, taking care that 
they do not burn, and add a small pinch cayenne pepper. 

Steamed ^w«^?.— Clean the birds carefully, using a little soda 
in the water in which they are washed ; rinse, wipe dry, and fill 
with dressing, sewing up nicely, and binding down the legs and 
wings with cords. Put in a steamer over hot water, and let cook 
untU just done. Then place in a pan with a little butter ; set them 
in the oven and baste frequently with melted butter until a nice 
brown. They ought to brown nicely in about fifteen minutes. Serve 
on a platter, with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. 

Quail Fricassee. — Prepare six quail as for roasting. Grate the 
crumb of a small stale loaf of bread, scrape one pound fat bacon, 
chop thyme, parsley, an onion and a lemon peel fine, and season 



332 GAME. 

with salt and pepper ; mix with two eggs ; put this forcemeat into 
the quail, lard the breasts and fry brown ; place them in a stewpan 
with some beef stock and stew three-quarters of an hour ; thicken 
with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve with forcemeat balls 
around the dish and strain the gravy over the birds. Pigeon FHcas' 
see is prepared as above. 

^uail on Toast. — Dry pick, singe with paper, cut off heads, and 
disjoint legs at first joint, draw, split down the back, and break 
down breast and backbone so they will lie flat ; soak in salt and 
water for five or ten minutes, drain and dry with a cloth, lard with 
bacon or butter, and rub salt over them, place on broiler and turn 
often, dipping two or three times into melted butter; broil about 
twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of buttered toast as 
there are birds, and serve a bird, breast upward, on each slice with 
currant jelly. Or cook them, prepared as above, in a covered pan 
in hot oven, with a very little water, until nearly done. Then fry in 
frying-pan with hot butter to a nice brown, and serve on buttered 
toast. Make a sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken lightly with 
browned flour and pour over each quail. Plover and Reed Birds 
may be broiled in same way. Pigeons should be first parboiled and 
then broiled and served same. 

Pabhits. — They are in best condition in mid-winter and are 
prepared for cooking by first skinning by cutting a slit under the 
throat ; as it is pulled off, turn skin over so as to enclose the hair 
that it may not touch the skin ; or cut skin of legs around first joints ; 
loosen skin oft hind legs all around, and cut it inside thighs as far 
as tail, then turn the skin back until the hind legs are free from it, and 
hang up the carcass by them ; next pull the skin downward toward 
the head, slipping out the fore legs when they are reached ; after 
cutting off feet, either cut off head at neck or skin it, and cut off 
end of nose with skin, then draw, wash, wipe dry, and in cooking 
them always lard, or lay or tie pieces of salt pork or bacon over 
them as they are dry meated. 

Fried Rahhit. — Wlien nicely dressed lay it in a pan with cold 
water, add a half cup salt and soak overnight. In the morning 
drain off water, cut up and roll each piece in corn meal and let 
stand till time to cook for dinner ; then rinse, cut up and parboil 
in slightly salted water, with one large or two small onions sliced in 
it, until tender ; take out, roll in corn meal or equal parts meal and 
flour and fry in a little butter a nice brown. Make a gravy in the 
pan or serve with onion sauce. Or, dip the pieces in beaten egg, 
then roll in cracker crumbs and immerse in lard, or half lard and 
beef drippings, like fritters, and fry brown. Garnish with slices of 
lemon adulternated with green leaves. 



GAME. 333 

Stewed Squirrel. — Skin as rabbits (see recipe) and cut in 
pieces, discarding the head ; lay tliem in cold water ; put a large 
tablespoon lard in a stewpan, with an onion sliced, and a tablespoon 
of flour ; let fry until the flour is brown, then put in a pint of water 
the squirrel seasoned with salt and pepper, and cook until tender' 
When half done put in strips of nice puff-paste and a little butter* 

Roast Teal. — Choose fat plump birds, after frost has set in, aS 
they are generally better flavored. Skin, draw, and roast in oven in 
a little butter and water if needed ; serve with a brown or orange 
gravy and garnish with sliced lemon. For Fried Teal^ cut up, 
fry in pan, turning to brown both sides, and when done add season- 
ing and half cup currant jelly ; stir teal about in the jelly and serve 
on slices of toast with the jelly turned over each piece. Fried 
Grouse is prepared in same way, some using only the breast, and 
also Fried Duck. The jelly dressing may be omitted, serving with 
a teaspoon cold currant jelly on each piece instead. 

Broiled Venison. — Cut thin slices from the loin or take cutlets 
from the leg, season with pepper and salt and broil quickly on but- 
tered gridiron. Or bread the slices before broiling. Dish on hot 
platter with bit of butter under each and serve with a gravy sauce 
or a dish of currant jelly, and for vegetables baked potatoes and 
etewed mushrooms. 

Fried' Venison. — Take slices from the loin or leg and place in 
frying-pan which has been covered to depth of half an inch with 
butter made smoking hot, and quickly brown both sides ; season with 
pepper and salt and put in two tablespoons jelly to each pound 
venison. Slices an inch thick should cook twenty minutes. Serve 
hot with the gravy from pan poured over. It may be fried without 
the jelly but is much nicer with it. 

Hashed Venison. — Remove the oones from cold venison, and 
mince it fine ; to a pint of minced venison allow two tablespoons 
each butter and currant jelly ; heat them together, season the mince 
palatably with salt and pepper, and serve on toast, very hot. Veni' 
son Fatties is another good way to utilize bits of cold venison ; chop 
fine, heat with some of the gravy left from dinner, season with pep- 
per and salt, then fill patty-pans with the venison and cover the top 
with crust j bake until crust is done brown. 

Boast Venison. — The haunch, the leg, and the saddle of veni- 
son, which is the double loin, are best for roasting or baking. Wash 
in warm water and dry well with a cloth, season with salt and pep- 
per, and wrap in several sheets of buttered paper or cover with a 
coarse paste made of flour and water, though some use both paper 
and paste, first putting a sheet of white paper, buttered, over the fat, 
then spread with the paste, half an inch thick, and over this put a 




334 GAME. 

sheet or two of strong paper, binding the whole firmly on with 
twine ; then either put it before the fire on a spit, or place in a drip- 
ping-pan in very hot oven, and cook about fifteen minutes to the 
pound if desired medium rare. If roasted before the fire baste con- 
stantly while cooking and in either case, about twenty minutes 
before it is done, quicken the fire, carefully remove the paste and 
paper, dredge with flour, and baste Avell with butter until it is nicely 
frothed, and of a pale brown color ; if a haunch, garnish the knuckle- 
bone with a frill of white paper, and serve with an unflavored gravy 
made from the drippings in a tureen, and currant jelly or jelly and 
mustard sauce. As the principal 
object in roasting venison is to 

preserve the fat, the latter is the 

best mode of doing so where ex- '^p^^^^jp^^^^^^^^^^t 
pense is not objected to ; but in ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^S^ 
ordinary cases the paste may be Roast Hauacu or venison. 

dispensed with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead ; 
it will not require so long cooking without the paste. Send to table' 
on a hot platter, or better on a hot-water platter as illustrated, and 
serve on hot plates, as the venison fat so soon cools ; to be thoroughly 
enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot-water plates. The 
neck and shoulder may be roasted in same manner. Some wash 
the venison in lukewarm vinegar and water before roasting and rub 
well with butter or lard to soften the skin, while others remove the 
dry outer skin entirely, and think it better to tie on the papers and 
paste the day before wanted. One mode of baking is to place in 
dripping-pan with boiling water in the bottom, invert another pan 
over it to keep in the steam, and let it cook thus an hour with a 
good fire ; wet all over with hot water, cover again and bake an 
hour and a half longer ; then remove papers and paste, let brown 
half an hour, basting every five minutes, and finish by dredging 
vath flour and butter to make a froth. Or bake in dripping-pan 
simply covered with the paste, basting every ten minutes with the 
hot water or gravy from the pan, removing the paste half an hour 
before done, and finish as above. Take up on a hot dish, skim the 
gravy left in dripping-pan, strain, thicken with browned flour, add 
two teaspoons currant jelly, and pepper and salt. Boil for an in- 
stant, and serve in a gravy-boat; Or a very nice gravy is made 
thus : Pour all the fat from the baking pan, and put in the pan a 
cup boiling water. Stir from the sides and bottom and set back 
where it will keep hot. Put a tablespoon butter in a small frying- 
pan with small slice of onion, six pepper-corns and four whole cloves. 
Cook until the onion is browned, add a heaping teaspoon flour, and 
stir until browned ; then gradually add the gravy in the pan ; boil 
one minute, strain, and add a half teaspoon lemon juice and three 
tablespoons currant jelly. Serve both venison and gravy very hot. 
Or after the venison has been put in the oven chop all bits trimmed 



GAME. 335 

from it, and put over the fire, with any venison bones available, or 
use beef bones ; cover with boiling water, season with salt and pep- 
per, add ten whole cloves or about quarter of small nutmeg, and 
simmer gently while venison is baking, taking care to keep covered 
with water. Take up the venison when done and keep very hot 
while gravy is made as follows : Set the baking-pan over the fire, 
stir into it a heaping tablespoon flour, and brown it, then strain into 
it the liquid from the bones, season with salt and pepper and stir in 
as much currant jelly as liked. To bake Venison a la Mode, re- 
move the bone from the haunch, and make a large quantity of force- 
meat, or stuffing of bread-crumbs, bits of pork, an onion minced 
fine, a small piece of celery, or celery-seed, parsley, and sage. Season 
with pepper and salt to taste. Press in the stuffing till the hole left 
by the bone is filled. Sew up the opening and spread over it nice 
lard, sprinkling with pepper and salt, or bake as above, in a paste, 
until well done. Serve with either of the gravies given. 

Stewed Venison. — Use the neck, shoulder, inferior part of the 
leg or the backbone with the layer of tender meat each side, for a 
stew; cut into several pieces, and put in a stewpan with just water 
or stock enough to cover it ; add a grated onion, bunch sweet herbs, 
' salt, black pepper, and part of a red pepper pod. Simmer gently from 
three and a half to four hours, and if it becomes rather dry add 
boiling water ; it is well to stew with it some slices of fat mutton ; 
just before serving thicken with flour rubbed smooth in an ounce of 
butter. Serve with red currant jelly. Another way is to put the 
venison in a saucepan in which butter enough to cover half an inch 
in depth has been made smoking hot. Brown the venison in this 
and stir with it a tablespoon flour for each pound ; when the flour 
is browned cover the venison with boiling water, add a teaspoon 
currant jelly for each pound, and season with salt and pepper. 
Cover closely and stew half an hour, or until tender ; serve hot with 
the sauce in which it has been cooked poured over. For a stew 
from the remains of roast, cut the meat from the bones in neat 
slices, and if there is sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat 
into this, as it is preferable to any other. Should there not be 
enough, put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with about a 
pint of any good gravy or stock ; stew gently for an hour, and strain' 
gravy. Put a little flour and butter into stewpan, keep stirring 
until brown, then add strained gravy, and let boil, skim and strain 
again, and when a little cool put in the slices of venison. Place 
stewpan on back of stove and when on the point of simmering, serve ; 
do not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. 

Roast Woodcock. — Put an onion, salt and hot water into a drip 
ping-pan with the birds and baste for ten or fifteen minutes ; then 
change pan ; put in a slice of salt pork and baste with butter and 
pork drippings very often ; just before serving dredge lightly with 




336 GAME. 

flour and baste. Or fill with a rich forcemeat of bread-crumbs, pep- 
per, salt, and melted butter ; sew up and roast, basting with butter 
and water, from twenty minutes to half an hour. When half done, 
put circular slices of buttered toast underneath to catch the juice, 
and serve on these when taken up. Boast Snipe and other small 
birds same way. 

Fried Woodcoc'k. — Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs close to the 
body ; skin the head and neck, turn the beak under 
the wing and tie it ; fasten a very thin piece of bacon 
around the breast of each bird, immerse in hot fat for 
two or three minutes. Season and serve on buttered 
toast. Some pierce the legs with the beak of the bird, 
as illustrated. Fried Snipe is prepared in same way. ^^^led woodcock. 
Broiled Woodcock is a favorite dish. Split them down the back 
and broil, basting with butter, and serve on toast. 

Bvrd Compote. — Prepare as for roasting and fill each with a 
dressing made as follows : Allow for each bird the size of a pigeon 
one half a hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, a tablespoon bread-crumbs, 
a teaspoon chopped pork ; first season the birds with pepper and 
salt, then stuff and lay them in a kettle that has a tight cover. Place 
over the birds a few slices of pork, add a pint water for twelve birds, 
dredge over them a little flour, cover, and put them in a hot oven. 
Let them cook until tender, then add a little cream and butter. If 
sauce is too thin thicken with a little flour. 

Potted Game. — Take any cooked remains of game and pound 
well together, having previously removed all skin and bone. Add 
to the paste pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper, 
and a lump of sugar pounded. Any remains of ham may be in- 
cluded with the game, and should be of an equal quantity. Rub the 
paste through a wire sieve. If no ham be added use an equal 
amount of butter. Mix it well again, and place in pots or jars, cov- 
ered with either clarified butter or lard. When required for use, dish 
on an aspic jelly and garnish with fresh parsley. 

Puree of Game and Bice. — This is a pretty and economical 
dish, coming under the head of secondary cookery. Take the re- 
mains of any kind of roast or boiled game, put into a stewpan with 
a gill of water, stick of celery, a little thyme, and an onion. Boil 
gently together. Mince meat, and pound in a mortar with a small 
bit of butter, and a spoonful gravy from the bones. This should 
be in a state of pulp ; rub through a hair seive, put in stewpan with 
stock from bones, which ought to be reduced to less than a gill in 
quantity. Add a gill cream, a sprinkling merely of pepper, salt and 
nutmeg, and a teaspoon flour ; dish with rice, potato croquettes, 
poached eggs, and thin narrow strips of bacon as a garnish, or with 
merely the rice and tufts of parsley. 



GAME. 337 

Spanish Stew. — Use hare, rabbit, chicken, partridge or pheas- 
ants. Cut up, wipe with damp towel and save the giblets. Put tlie 
pieces in a pan with sweet oil and onion sliced and fried brown. 
Add some chopped ham and sweet herbs, season with cayennne pep- 
per, and sufficient beef broth to cover well ; add the giblets, let sim- 
mer, skim off the grease, stir meat from the bottom, and when done 
add the juice of two oranges. Serve hot in covered dish. 

Western Pie. — Pluck and skin blackbirds or small birds of any 
kind, enough to fill a baking-dish of medium size, cut ofif heads and 
feet, except leaving feet on half a dozen for upper row ; draw them 
without breaking entrails, put birds into saucepan, with enough boil- 

ming water to cover, tablespoon each butter 
and flour rubbed to a smooth paste to each 
dozen birds, and a palatable seasoning of 
pepper and salt, and let stew gently until 
tender. For every dozen small birds boil 
;;,.f three eggs hard, remove shells, and cut eggs 
— -=..-.=,.-„..iv:..- '"' in halves and while birds are stewing, make 
Western Pie, a nicc crust as directed in Pastry, line a bak- 

ing dish and partly bake it ; when birds are tender put them in it, 
together with the hard boiled eggs, pour in as much of the gravy 
used in stewing the birds as the dish will hold, put on a cover of 
pastry, brush the top with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven, 
until upper crust is done. If any gravy remains after filling pie, 
keep hot and serve with it. Blackbirds skinned, parboiled, and fried 
or broiled and served on toast are delicious. 

Washington Roast. — Have a pair of young wild ducks careful- 
ly skinned and cleaned, wipe inside and out with a wet towel and 
stuff with potatoes, boiled until tender, mashed as if for table, and 
seasoned with teaspoon grated onion,pepper, salt, teaspoon powder- 
ed herbs and two heaping tablespoons butter, or a dressing made 
with liii^k or cream may be used, or do not stuff at all. Sew up the 
ducks, truss them, put in baking pan, set in hot oven and as soon as 
lightly browned dredge them well with flour and baste with drip- 
pings in pan, or with butter. Bake half an hour, basting two or three 
times. Serve with Giblet Gravy. Or make an Orange Sauce by 
scraping tablespoon each fat bacon and onions and fry them togeth-l 
er five minutes, then add juice of an orange and tablespoon currant 
jelly. Skim off all fat from baking pan, put in above mixture, and 
a little thickening if necessary, boil up and serve. Epicures prefer 
this method to that of first parboiling the ducks. For Stewed Ducks 
have them nicely picked ; stuff with bread and butter flavored with 
onions, pepper, and a few celery-seeds ; flour them, then brown in lard 
in frying pan ; put in a few slices of ham in iron stew-pot chopped 
onions, water, pepper, and salt, with a few blades of mace ; add ducks 
and let them stew gently but constantly for two or three hours ; flour 
them each time they are turned in pot ; thicken gravy with butter 
rolled in flour, and serve hot. qo 



338 GRIDDLE CAKES. 



G^RIDDLE CAKES. 



Griddle-cakes should oe well beaten when first made, and cakes 
in which eggs are used are much lighter when the eggs are separated, 
whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten 
to a stiff froth just before baking. All griddle-cakes are much nicer 
mixed and kept overnight, to allow the flour to swell, stirring in the 
whites of eggs and soda or baking powder, when used, just before 
baking. Cakes are much more easily, quickly and neatly baked if 
made in a vessel with a spout from which the batter may be poured, 
and one can be provided for this purpose. Have the griddle clean, and 
if the cakes stick sprinkle on salt and rub with a coarse cloth before 
greasing. The neatest way to grease a griddle is with a large piece 
of ham or pork rind kept for this purpose, and some use a thick 
slice of turnip. Many prefer griddles made of soap-stone, which 
need no greasing — grease spoils them — but they need to be very hot. 
They are more costly and more easily broken than iron, and with 
care cakes may be baked on an iron griddle without greasing, if it is 
ke-pt 2)oUshed, and rubbed well with a cloth after every baking. The 
artificial stone griddle illustrated is a new article, light and durable, 

equally as good as the soap-stone, 

doing away with all grease and 

smoke and much cheaper. Whether 

greased or not, iron griddles, if 

Artificial stone Griddle. propcrly cared for, need washing 

but seldom. Immediately after use they should be carefully wiped 

and put away out of the dust, never to be used for any other pur- 




GRIDDLE OA-KES. 3c 



pose. Do not turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking, as it 
makes them heavy ; this rule should never be departed from, save 
in making fruit cakes, when it is necessary to turn them quickly to 
form a crust to confine the juice of the berries, and again to cook them 
thoroughly ; serve all cakes the same side up as when taken from 
griddle. The cake lifter illustrated 
is almost indispensable in turning 
cakes smoothly and evenly and the cake Lifter. 

cost of it is small. Buckwheat cakes are highly esteemed for win- 
ter breakfast, but are very properly never, or rarely, served in sum- 
mer, as the chief value of buckwheat as a food is its heat produc- 
ing properties. 

In making batter, bread or corn meal cakes, either sour milk or 
buttermilk may be used with soda; or sweet milk or water with 
baking powder, as convenient, using same proportion of other in- 
gredients, and remember that one heaping teaspoon baking powder 
possesses the same rising properties as one level teaspoon soda. A 
greater proportion of either of the rising powders is necessary with 
buckwheat, Graham and corn meal than with flour. 



Batter Cakes. — Make a batter of one quart each flour and sour 
milk, and let stand overnight. In the morning add three eggs 
beaten separately, a tablespoon butter, and two level teaspoons 
soda. Pulverize the soda very fine before measuring, then thor- 
oughly mix with the flour. Add whites of eggs just before baking 
on the griddle. For Corn Cakes use two-thirds corn meal and one- 
third flour. Sweet milk or water may be used with two heaping 
teaspoons baking powder thoroughly mixed with the flour. These 
may also be made without eggs, and some prefer to sweeten them, 
using either molasses or sugar to taste. Buttermilk may be used 
instead of sour milk. For Raised Batter Cakes take three eggs, 
one teaspoon sugar, one coflee-cup each sweet milk and warm 
water, four tablespoons potato yeast, flour enough to make a stiff 
batter ; beat yolks and sugar well, stir in milk, water and yeast, and 
lastly flour, stir well, and set in warm place to rise ; when light, beat 
whites to a stiff froth, and stir into batter with a pinch of salt. Very 
nice for breakfast if set the night before. For Tomato Cakes, slice 
large, solid ripe tomatoes, cover with the batter without yeast and 
fry on a griddle ; season with pepper and salt while frying. 

Raised Bread Cakes. — Soak the bread in enough cold milk to 
make it very soft, almost liquid ; then beat it to a smooth batter over 
the fire and let it get scalding hot ; cool a little, and to each quart 



340 GRIDDLE CAKES. 



soaked bread stir in one tablespoon yeast, two well beaten eggs, lev- 
el teaspoon salt, and enough flour to form a. batter that will hold a 
drop let fall from the spoon. Cover it with f< Ided towel and let rise 
overnight, if the cakes are intended for breakfast, or five hours, if to 
be used at noon or evening. 

Buckwheat Calces. — Sift one quart of buckwheat flour and add a 
cup scalded corn meal, tablespoon sugar and teaspoon salt. Stir in 
a half cup yeast and mix to a good batter with lukewarm water. 
Set to rise in a warm place overnight, and before baking in the 
morning, thin if necessary with warm water, and if it is even the 
least bit sour add half teaspoon soda, but take out a cup of the bat- 
ter, before adding the soda, to serve as a rising for the next baking 
and putaway in acool place. Ifthis isdone every morning,fresh yeast 
will not be necessary for several days ; some who bake cakes every 
morning use no other yeast all winter and think them better raised 
thus. Some never stir buckwheat cakes after they have risen, but 
take them out carefully with a large spoon, placing the spoon when 
emptied in a saucer, and not back again in the batter. Wheat flour is 
used by many instead of corn meal, and it is recommended by some 
that oats be ground with buckwheat, one-third oats to two-thirds 
buckwheat. Or for Quick Buckwheats, take one pint sour milk or 
buttermilk, tablespoon soda, tablespoon baking molasses, or a little 
sugar ; thicken with buckwheat flour to the consistency of batter- 
cakes. Water may be used, or sweet milk and baking powder, but 
the cakes will not be as tender. Bake on a hot griddle. 

Cerealine Cake. — Sift three-fourths cup flour, teaspoon bak- 
ing powder and a pinch of salt together, add three well-beaten eggs, 
tablespoon sugar and a cup cerealine, and stir in a pint milk. Bake 
as usual on a griddle, or in a buttered round frying-pan, putting in 
enough batter each time to make a cake covering half bottom of pan 
turn to brown both sides, butter each cake, roll up separately, 
sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve. Or take half pound boil- 
ed cerealine, three tablespoons sugar, two and one- 
half cups flour, one and one-half teaspoons baking | 

powder, three eggs, teaspoon salt and three-fourths, 

pint milk. Bake on griddle. cereaune ckes. 

Clam Cakes. — Sift two heaping teaspoons baking powder with 
a quart flour and make a batter with one pint milk and one pint 
liquor from canned clams, adding a tablespoon syrup, little salt, four 
tablespoons melted butter, and well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Stir 
in two-pound cans of chopped clams and bake as other griddle 
cakes. 




GRIDDLE CAKES. 341 



Corn Cakes. — Pour three cups boiling milk gradually over one 
cup corn meal, etiring to avoid lumps ; sift one teaspoon salt, one of 
baking powder and two tablespoons sugar with one cup flour and 
add when scalded milk is cool ; then stir in two well-beaten eggs. 
A tablespoon cream or a little butter may be added, and some scald 
the milk, pour over meal, stirring in the butter and sugar and let 
stand overnight, adding other ingredients in the morning. To make 
Raised Corn Cakes, scald a quart corn meal, cool with cold water 
so as not to scald the yeast, add two tablespoons yeast, one of flour 
and salt to taste. Let stand overnight, and in the morning add two 
well-beaten eggs. 

Farina Cakes. — Scald, four tablespoons farina at night with a 
pint boiling water In the morning thin with one quart milk stirred 
in slowly to avoid lumps, and add two well-beaten eggs, one table- 
spoon melted butter, salt to taste and enough flour to make a good 
batter. Add a teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar, or two, heap- 
ing, of baking powder. 

Flannel Cakes. — Take one cup corn meal, two of flour, three of 
boiling milk, one-fourth yeast cake dissolved in four tablespoons cold 
water, or one-fourth cup liquid yeast, one teaspoon salt, one table- 
spoon sugar, two of butter. Heat tho milk to boiling and pou.' it 
over the meal and butter. When cool, add the other ingredients 
and let rise overnight and bake on griddle. 

Plain French Cakes. — Make as much batter as will be required, 
allowing one egg and a quarter saltspoon salt to four heaping table- 
spoons flour and a half pint milk. Beat yolks of eggs, add other 
ingredients, beating thoroughly, and stir in well-whipped whites, 
bake and roll as above. 

Gluten Cakes. — One pint sour milk, level teaspoon soda ; thick- 
en with gluten or entire wheat flour as for batter cakes ; one or two 
eggs may be added, and sweet milk and baking powder may be 
used in place of sour milk and soda. These are as nice as buck- 
wheat cakes and more wholesome, 

Graham Cakes. — ne cup each sour cream and tepid water, two 
eggs, the tesi Graham flour (unsifted) to make a thin batter, and 
scant level teaspoon soda dissolved in the tepid water. The water 
must not be too hot, or the cakes will be greasy and soggy. 
Bake slowly on not too hot a griddle. Or take one quart sifted 
Graham flour, teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or water 
enough to make thin batter. Or eggs may be omitted to make a less 
expensive breakfast dish. Or, if a mixture is preferred, take one 

Eint sifted Graham flour, half pint each corn meal and flour, or half 
rraham and half corn meal, heaping teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon 



342 GRIDDI.E CAKES. 



salt, one egg, pint buttermilk, teaspoon soda. Another excellent 
recipe requires two cups Graham flour, one of flour, two and a half 
of milk, one tablespoon sugar, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, 
half teaspoon soda, two eggs. Boil half the milk, pour it on the 
Graham and stir until smooth ; add the cold milk, and set away to 
cool ; mix the other ingredients with the flour and rub through a 
sieve, and add with the eggs, well beaten, to the Graham and milk. 
Rye Cakes made the same. What is known as "Number One" 
Graham flour does not need to be sifted. 

Green Corn Cakes. — To one quart grated corn (raw) add yolks 
of three eggs, cup sweet cream (milk maybe used, adding table- 
spoon butter), one cup flour, the well-beaten whites, teaspoon bak- 
ing powder ; bake on griddle and serve hot. Some use a handful 
fresh bread-crumbs and not so much flour. 

Hominy Cakes. — Beat a large tablespoon butter into two cupa 
soft boiled hominy, add a tablespoon white sugar, little salt and three 
well-beaten eggs, beating all well together; then stir in a quart 
milk and a cup flour with two heaping teaspoons baking powder. 
Or take half hominy and half flour, and water may be used instead 
of milk. Rice Cakes made same. Bake very quickly. 

Oat Meal Cakes. — One cup each cooked oat meal and flour, one 
egg, one teaspoon each sugar and baking powder and half teaspoon 
salt, mixed with enough cold water to make a nice batter. Beat all 
well together and bake on griddle. 

Potato Cakes — Six boiled potatoes cooled and mashed through 
a colander (cold potatoes may be used), two eggs, three tablespoons 
flour, sweet milk to make rather stiff' batter, salt, and a little pepper 
if liked. Fry on griddle. Nice with butter, syrup or jam. For Grated 
Potato Cakes, after peeling and washing potatoes, wipe dry, grate 
quickly and to each cup grated potato allow one egg, and heaping 
tablespoon flour. Beat potato and egg thoroughly five minutes, 
add flour and teaspoon salt. Have tablespoon drippings or lard in 
frying-pan, put in batter to cover bottom half inch thick, and there 
must be enough fat to show around the edge of cake. When brown 
turn and brown the other side. Place in oven on plate and bake a 
second one, adding more fat to pan if necessary, then a third, etc., 
till all are baked. Place in layers and serve at table cut as jelly 
cake, only larger slices. Make in the proportion of one grated po- 
tato to each person. These are nice for breakfast or tea and with 
potato slaw, cake or fruit and a cup tea, coffee or chocolate, one has 
almost a "company tea." 

Rye Cakes. — Warm a quart new milk, beat two eggs very light, 
and add gradually with sufiicient rye meal to make a moderate bat- 
t€r, putting in the meal a handful at a time ; add a saltspoon salt 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 343 



and large tablespoon any fresh yeast. Beat very light and put 
in a warm place to rise. Bake on hot griddle and eat with butter, 
molasses, or honey. Corn Cakes may be made after this recipe, or 
use rye and corn in equal proportions. 

Rice Cakes. — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold mix one quart 
sweet milk, the yolks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make a 
stiff batter ; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one ^^:^^^^^5v^ 
teaspoon soda, and two of cream tartar ; add a lit- W^^^^m^^^^ 
tie salt, and lastly the whites of eggs ; bake on a ^^^^^^^^^ 
griddle. A nice way to serve is to spread them ''' Rice caues. 
while hot with butter, and almost any kind of preserves or jelly ; roll 
them up neatly, cut off the ends, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve 
immediately. Or boil until soft a half pound rice, drain off water, 
mash well, stir in butter size of an egg, and v/hen cold add six eggs 
beaten very light, pint flour, and quart lukewarm milk. Beat all 
well together, and bake on a hot griddle. 

Squash Cakes. — One cup cooked and sifted squash, two eggs, 
one and a half pints milk, little salt, flour to make good batter, and 
two heaping teaspoons baking powder. Or take one pint flour, scant 
pint milk, two eggs, teaspoon each salt and cream tartar, half as 
much soda, four tablespoons sugar, two cups sifted squash. Mix 
the flour with the other dry ingredients, and rub through a sieve ; add 
beaten eggs and milk to the squash, and pour on the flour. Beat 
till smooth and light and bake on griddle. Or take a half pint cold 
stewed squash, pumpkin or apple, rubbed through a colander ; mix 
with tvv^o well-beaten eggs and half pint milk. Sift together half pint 
each Graham flour ancl corn meal, half teaspoon salt, heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder. Mix all smoothly and thoroughly into a bat- 
ter and bake quickly on hot griddie. 



344 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



ICES A1^TD ICE-CREAM. 



Perfectly fresh sweet cream makes the most delicious ice-cream, 
and what we term double cream, standing twenty-four hours, is best. 
This sweetened and flavored gives the justly renowned Philadelphia 
Ice-cream, having a cream-white tint and a full rich flavor. It is 
made either of cooked or uncooked cream ; the latter gives a light 
snowy texture, greatly Increased in quantity but not as fine in 
quality as if the cream is cooked, by placing in a custard kettle, stir- 
ring often till water in outer pan boils, then adding sugar, taking off 
fire, flavoring, letting stand a moment, straining, cooling and freez- 
ing as directed hereafter. This gives a cream of greater body and 
richness and prevents any tendency to curdling if cream should ac- 
cidentally not be perfectly fresh, caused by very hot sultry weather, or 
a passing thunder-storm. This is made more delicious, adding light- 
ness to the richness, by reserving a part of cream, whipping it and 
adding when cream is half frozen, beating it well in with a wooden 
paddle ; and less flavoring is needed, a quarter less at least, if it is 
added to the whipped cream, as freezing diminishes the strength of 
flavoring ; consequently, when added before freezing, the cream must 
be over-flavored. Freezing also lessens the strength of the sugar, so 
if the cream preparation is sweetened to taste, one must also over- 
sweeten. For whipped cream some let single cream stand twelve 
hours after skimming, and then skim off' the richer portion, thus 
obtaining the "cream of the cream." It will be so rich that it can 
all be whipped to a stiff" froth without any remainder. This is the 
true double-cream. 

When eggs are added^ to the cream before freezing, making a 
custard, it is known as Neapolitan Ice-cream, and as it contains a 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 345 



large proportion of eggs, yields an ice as solid, rich and smooth as the 
finest butter, and has a pronounced custard flavor, and lemon-yel- 
low color. It is prepared as follows : Strain Pud beat yolks of eggs 
to a smooth cream, add sugar and beat again. Strain and whisk the 
whites to a froth as stiff as possible, stir briskly into the yolks and 
sugar, and mix with the cream. Cook in a custard kettle or a pail 
set within a kettle of boiling water over a brisk fire, stirring con- 
stantly, until it slightly coats a knife Made dipped into it, and does 
not run. Be careful not to let it curdle. • Take off fire, strain through 
a wire sieve (or a linen crash towel kept for the purpose and marked 
"Ice Cream,") into a crock or pan, cover with gauze, and let stand 
till cool, then freeze. It is well to reserve some of the cream and 
whip and add as above. These two creams are made of the pure 
cream ; when made of part new milk and cream it is called £ac- 
teanola lGe-crea7n and 18 made either with or without eggs: With 
Eggs^ by boiling the new milk, reserving a part of it, in custard ket- 
tle and adding beaten yolks of eggs mixed with the reserved milk 
and stirred slowly into the hot milk ; let cook two or three min- 
utes, add sugar and in few moments take from fire and strain while 
hot, as above ; cool, add double cream and flavoring, or add only 
part of the cream. Set custard in a cool place and when ready to 
freeze add well-frothed whites, and when half frozen, the reserved 
cream, whipped. Or Without Eggs^ by boiling the milk, as above, 
and adding a rounded tablespoon flour (if cream to be added is very 
thick, use less), or a little less of corn-starch or arifowroot, to every 
quart milk, mixed smoothly with a part of the milk ; let cook fifteen 
minutes, then add sugar and cook five minutes, stirring all the time ; 
remove from fire, strain and put in a cool place ; when cold and 
ready to freeze add part of the cream and all the flavoring, and 
when half frozen, the rest of the cream, whipped ; or after straining, 
let cool and then freeze and when half frozen add all the cream, 
whipped, and with it the flavoring as directed above. If cream 
does not whip easily add beaten white of an egg. Sugar is not 
added to the whipped cream. In any of the methods the mixture 
should be placed in a bed of ice to cool so that it may be ice-cold 
when put in freezer, as it will then freeze easier, quicker and smoother 
and require less ice. It is also well when poured in can to let 
stand five or ten minutes before freezing as it will then surely be 
thoroughly chilled, as the salt with the ice makes a more intense 



346 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



cold. When eggs are used, strain through a sieve — they beat easier 
and smoother for it; if yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, 
strain each before beating. 

Fruit Ice-creams, when of berries, are made in proportion of a 
quart cream, a quart fruit and a pound sugar, allowing the berries 
to stand for awhile well sprinkled with part of the sugar, mashing, 
straining the juice, adding the rest of sugar to it, and stirring till a 
clear syrup, and then adding to the ice-cold mixture just before 
commencing to freeze, or beating into it after it is frozen, which is 
the better way. In the latter case use in preparing the cream or 
custard, half the sugar to be used in recipe and mix the rest with 
the fruit juice and stir in when frozen. If the fruit is preferred in 
the cream, cut into dice the firm-fleshed fruits such as the pine-apple, 
apricot, peach and plum, mix lightly with halt the sugar and 
when it is dissolved mix with frozen cream ; for strawberries and 
raspberries, mash or chop gently, add sugar and mix with the frozen 
cream. In addition to this, add whipped cream and sweetened 
Avhole berries just as the cream is ready to serve, in the propor- 
tion of a cup berries and a pint of whipped cream to three pints 
of the frozen mixture. Canned berries may be used in the same 
way. Or a pint mashed berries or peaches, cut fine, added to a quart 
ordinary ice-cream, when frozen makes a delicious Fruit Ice-cream. 
In either case, with juice or fruit, let stand in freezer till ready to 
serve, or put in molds and pack as directed hereafter. 

In flavoring with vanilla the vanilla bean may be used by split- 
ting in two, cutting in pieces and cooking in the milk ; the flavor- 
ing for Almond Cream should be prepared by blanching and pound- 
ing the kernels to a paste with rose water, using arrowroot for thick- 
ening. Always use the Princesse Almond. For Cocoa-nut Ice- 
cream^ grate cocoa-nut and add to the cream and sugar just before 
freezing. The milk should never be heated for pine-apple, straw- 
berry, or raspberry cream. It is often desirable to be able to make 
ice-creams and water-ices of the summer fruits when they are out of 
season and at same time retain a^ much as possible of their ac- 
customed flavor and freshness, also to avail one's self of the finest 
fruits of the various kinds at the lowest rates obtainable in the 
height of the season, and for this purpose make plentifully of Fruit 
Flavors, as given in Jams and Jellies. Por making ice-cream use 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 347 



either fine granulated sugar or white sifted sugar, except where cream 
or milk is not cooked, then use best pulverized sugar. 

Both the Lacteanoia and Philadelphia, being eggless, are con- 
sidered better adapted to be used with fruit, as the eggs and fruit 
flavors are not thought to blend well, but this is a matter of taste. 
The eggless creams are more economical where one has plenty of 
cream, as each dozen eggs requires half pound sugar to sweeten 
them and each quart cream or milk half pound, also. Any propor- 
tion of eggs may be used to a quart of milk or cream, using sugar in 
quantity to correspond, viz : for three eggs, eighth pound sugar, 
making with the half pound sugar for milk, five-eighths pound 
sugar. 

A freezer — "White Mountain, Peerless or any of the best patent 
freezers — a wooden paddle made of hickory, maple, ash or oak, a 
fine wire sieve or crash strainer, seem almost a necessity in making ices 
and ice-creams, and there are also many other articles used which are 
given in Kitchen Utensils ; of course one can make them without 
so complete an outfit but the process is more tedious. Put ice in a 
coarse coffee-sack, pound with an ax or mallet until some lumps are 
size of an egg and most of them as small as a hickory-nut ; see that 
the freezer is properly set in tub, the beater in the socket, the cover 
secure, and a cloth in the hole and tin cup inverted over it, first hav- 
ing put on cross-piece, and turned the crank to see if everything is 
right ; now place around it a layer of ice three or four inches thick, 
then a thin layer of salt — rock salt pounded fine or the common 
coarse salt is best, some advise sea salt, but never 'Use table salt, as 
it causes the ice to melt too rapidly — ^then ice again, then salt, 
and so on until packed full, with a layer of ice last. The propor- 
tion should be about three-fourths ice and one-fourth salt. Pack 
very solid, pounding with a broom-handle or stick, then remove the 
cover and pour in the ice-cold preparation, filling only two-thirds full, 
lea'S'ing jroom for expansion ; replace cover and after five or ten min- 
utes pack ice down again and begin to freeze, turning the crank 
sloicly and steadily until rather difficult to turn ; optn can, add 
whipped cream, beat in well with wooden paddle, cover, and again 
turn till difficult to turn longer ; some claim this last turning of eight 
or ter. minutes should be as rapid as possible. Half an hour will 
freeze it, although the make of freezer and quality and quantity of 
pream govern the time, pure cream taking the longest. Unless dan- 



348 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



ger of water entering can, do not draw off while freezing as the in- 
tense cold of the water assists greatly in freezing. When done, brush 
ice and salt from and remove the cover, take out beater, scrape the 
cream down from the sides of freezer, beat well several minutes with 
a wooden paddle, replace the cover, fill the hole with a cork or a 
clean cloth and over this invert a tin cup, let off all the water, pack 
again with ice (using salt at bottom and between layers but none at 
top of tub), heap ice on the cover, spread over it a piece of carpet 
or a thick woolen blanket kept for this purpose, and set away in a 
cool place to harden two or three hours, or until needed. Some wet 
the blanket or carpet well with the icy brine that was drawn off and 
after an hour or two open the freezer, scrape down and beat cream 
again, and pack down with fresh ice and salt. In very warm weather 
it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a second, or even a 
third time ; the only rule is that as often as the brine appears at 
the top, causing the ice to float, it must be drawn off, and the tub 
repacked. Keep the blanket wet with the brine ; the evaporation 
causes intense cold, and helps to keep the ice from wasting, but when 
"brine blanket" is used cover top of freezer first with a dry blanket, 
then ice, etc. About twenty-five pounds ice is necessary for two or three 
gallons ice-cream in summer time, and the best is that which is por- 
ous and full of air cells, commonly called "snow ice." Snow itself 
is also an excellent freezing material and as it is often desirable to 
be able to make ices in the winter season, when there is no ice in 
the house, if there be snow upon the ground it makes an excellent 
substitute. It. needs only to be packed down firmly in the freezing 
tub, and enough water added to make a thick mush ; then put in 
the salt, and freeze as usual. Large freezers require much less ice and 
salt, in proportion to their contents, than small ones ; for a gallon 
freezer use about ten pints pounded ice, and three of salt. If a 
larger proportion of salt is used than one-fourth, the cream will freeze 
sooner but will not be so smooth and rich, and some only take one-fifth 
salt. Do not let agrainof salt or a dropof hrineget into the cream. 
For evening use, cream should be cooked in the morning, cooled and 
frozen by mid-day. If wanted at the noon meal, cook previous 
evening, cool overnight, and freeze early next morning, or it may 
be cooked very early in morning. It needs several hours to harden 
and ripen ; newly frozen cream is always somewhat mushy, and 
wanting in body and flavor. The creams produced by this method. 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 349 



faithfully and skillfully applied, will be firm, smooth and fine- 
grained like the best butter or jelly. Some freeze in a warm place, 
believing that the more rapid the melting of the ice the quicker the 
cream freezes. If cream begins to melt while serving, beat up well 
from the bottom with the long wooden paddle. 

After the last beating and before covering again with ice, if 
wished molded, fill cream solidly in every part of mold, that there 
may be no air spaces, working up and down with a spoon, which 
presses the cream in every part and also lightens it ; heap it a lit- 
tle above the brim, press the cover down hard, bind a buttered cloth 
over the joint, or use buttered or oiled paper put on with paste or gum 
tragacanth, bury it in a pan or tub of ice and salt and cover with a 
blanket. If it be a figure or design in two parts, fill each half of 
mold a little more than full ; the excess squeezes out on shutting 
it. Some cover top of cream in mold with thick white paper. 
When ready to serve, wash mold with cold water to remove the 
brine ; take off cloth, and wipe mold dry, lift ofi" cover, turn mold 
over on a plate, and if room is warm, it will slip off the cream in a 
few seconds. It is better not to use warm water on the mold ; it 
causes the cream to melt and run down the surface in unsightly 
streams. The variety of molds is very large, from the plain pyra- 
mid to the most elaborate combinations of figures, animals, flowers 
and fruits, corresponding to the flavor, as oranges for orange ice-cream, 
etc., and new designs and devices are brought out every year. 

A delicate way of serving ice-cream is to place upon it a spoon 
of whipped cream, and the most elaborate is to enclose it in me- 
ringues or kisses (see Confectionery). Fill the shells with whatever 
ice-cream or other ices prepared, put together by twos, thus forming 
a large egg, tie it around with a ribbon of suitable color and, send to 
table. When several kinds are served at one time, they are desig- 
nated by ribbons of the same color as the creams or ices ; white for 
almond or vanilla, brown for chocolate, pale and deep yellow for 
lemon, pine-apple and orange, pink for strawberry, green for pistach- 
io, fawn for peach and apricot, and so for all the others. Sometimes, 
after filling, the edges of the shells are lightly touched with the soft 
part that was removed, to make them stick together. For Mar» 
hied Meringues, ^11 yvith two or more creams of difierent colors, as 
for example, vanilla in one half and chocolate in the other, or straw* 
Bottom of page 349 



350 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



berry and orange, lemon and pistachio, peach and almond, and any 
other combination fancy may dictate. A pleasing contrast also is 
furnished by filling one-half with ice-cream and the other with water- 
ice, or one with a vanity and the other with frozen fruit. The ribbons 
should be double-faced and of shades to correspond with and indi- 
cate the contents ; or take plain ribbons of the two colors required, 
stitch two pieces, one of each color, together at ends, each half the en- 
tire length wished, and tie around the meringue, finishing in a bow- 
knot, one-half of the bow thus being of each color. Angel or 
Cream Cake, Cream Sandwiches, White Lady Fingers, or Centennial 
Drops are nice served with Ice-cream. 

For freezing small molds and also Bisque or Biscuit Glace 
have a large tin mold, either square or rectangular ; fill this with 
little paper cases, which must fit the tin mold exactly in every part. 
These little cases may be made round, oval, oblong, square, or as little 
baskets, and about the size of a patty pan, of smooth, heavy white 
paper or light card-board, and a frill of lace paper put around the 
edge gives a pretty effect ; fill with the mixture, and cover mold with 
a hermetically fitting top. In the bottom of a wooden box, made 
for the purpose eight inches larger each way, with a cover and 
handles, put about six or eight inches of pounded ice and coarse 
salt in alternate layers ; in this place tin mold of filled cases with 
another eight inches of ice and salt; cover the whole with a thick, 
heavy cloth, or blanket, and let stand six or eight hours. The box 
containing ice should have a small plugged hole, to allow escape of 
water from melted ice. When mold is taken from ice, wipe well 
before opening, to prevent any salt-water getting in. Or a more 
elaborate square tin box is made with shelves, with feet at each cor- 
ner to support them, and called a "cave," and when shelves are 
filled and placed in, one above the other, is also packed in the outer 
box with ice and salt. Then there is a patent cave that is round 
like an ice-cream freezer ; to fill, put shelf into can, packed as for 
ice-cream, cover with cases, then another shelf and so on till all are 
added ; put on lid, press tightly down, bind the joint like any mold, 
cover with pounded ice, then with a woolen cloth or blanket, then 
ice and salt and the "brine blanket." Let stand as ice-cream, draw- 
ing off water and repacking if necessary. There should be a hole, 
with a wooden plug, in the side of ice-tub just above bottom the 
same as in an ice-cream freezer. Any one having the latter may 



ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. 351 



have tin shelves made to fit the can, with three supports or feet two 
or three inches high, and if wished an extra cover without any 
oj)ening in top, although with that plugged and carefully protected 
it will not he necessary ; remove beater, put in shelves, fill, cover, 
bind and cover with ice as above. In caring for patent ice-cream 
freezers, the cogs should be oiled occasionally and every part of 
the can, beater, etc., should be well cleaned and dried on top the 
stove or in sun before putting away. 

In making recipes refer to table of weights and measures for 
relative proportions of pounds, pints, teacups, gills, etc. Whipped 
cream may bo added when cream is half frozen, or later, just before 
it is packed for hardening, and the quantity given in the following 
recipes is measured before whipping. In all recipes where only cream 
is used, part new milk may be substituted in any proportion wished, 
using with it the arrowroot, corn-starch or flour in proportion as 
given, remembering that the milk must always be cooked with the 
sugar and thickening, strained, cooled and then the cream added; 
but when cream alone is used it may be cooked or not as liked. 
Always use a custard kettle and strain all mixtures while hot. In 
giving proportions of ingredients in different recipes Avhere cream 
and milk are used the term liquid will be given to cover both. 
Custard ice-cream or Neapolitan is considered by some preferable 
for Caramel, Chocolate, Coffee, Lemon, Vanilla and the different nut 
creams, and the Philadelphia and Lacteanola, without eggs, as 
already suggested, better adapted to fruit flavors, but where the light- 
ness given by eggs is wished without the flavor, the whites alone 
can be used and added when cream is partially frozen. It is 
better to use earthen bowls, crocks, jars, etc., to hold any of the 
milk, cream or fruit preparations while in process of making ice- 
creams, and we feel like repeating instructions for adding fruit and 
juices, as one. will be fully repaid for the extra trouble. Always 
add juice when cream is partly frozen, and especially is this true of 
very acid fruit, as currants, lemons, etc., for it is apt to curdle the 
cream if added before freezing; if fruit is used, chop and add Just 
before serving, or if to be molded, when put in mold. In winter, 
when fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted 
for it ; it should be melted and worked tlirough a sieve before being 
added, and if the color should not be good a little prepared cochi- 
neal may be put in to improve its appearance. In recipes where 



352 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



candied fruits are used the French are of course the best, but one 
can dry and prepare them at home, and if either are not obtainable 
a substitute can be had by using any firm-fleshed, home-made pre- 
serves, such as cherries, strawberries, pears, peaches, pine-apples or 
quinces. Drain off syrup, chop into dice, roll in pulverized sugar 
and stir into cream, as above. In vanilla flavoring some use the 
bean, a* small bean to a quart, others heaping tablespoon powder, 
others half ounce vanilla sugar, while most use half tablespoon ex- 
tract to above proportion. The preparing, flavoring, molding and 
serving of ice-creams can be so varied, according to the taste of the 
kitchen-queen, that by carefully reading directions and recipes she 
can soon make any combinations wished, and by adding "here a 
little and there a little" create new and delicious flavors. 



Almond Ice-cream. — Cook two quarts cream, the prepared 
almonds and three teacups sugar in custard kettle, strain, cool and 
freeze ; prepare almonds as follows : blanch and rub to a paste, with 
four tablespoons each sugar and cream reserved from the above 
quantities, half pound shelled almonds and a few drops rose water. 
Add when half frozen one quart cream, whipped, teaspoon almond 
extract and half vanilla. For Almond Caramel, put the blanched 
almonds in oven, roast quickly to a yellow brown and then prepare 
and add as above, adding half teaspoon caramel in place of almond 
extract. For Pistachio Ice-cream make as above, using pistachio 
nuts instead of almonds, with a heaping teaspoon Spinach Coloring to 
give a fine color. If wished with eggs, use eggs and more sugar in 
proportion as given in general directions. Some use only two ounces 
shelled nuts to each quart cream. Any Nut Ice-cream can be 
made in same way except that walnuts and hickory nuts are not 
blanched. 

Arrowroot Ice-cream. — Boil two quarts milk, add half pint arrow- 
root mixed smooth with pait of the milk and_ two pounds sugar; 
when cold add two quarts cream, whites of six eggs, tablespoon 
any flavoring and freeze. 

Boston Ice-cream. — Make a boiled custard of three pints cream 
three teacups sugar and yolks often eggs ; strain, cool, freeze and add 
teacup crumbs of steamed brown bread, prepared by drying, grating 
and sifting, pint cream, whipped, and well-frothed whites, and pack 
as directed. This can be made without eggs, and also by cooking 
part of crumbs with custard, giving rather more body to cream. 

Buttermilk Ice-cream. — Strain buttermilk through athin eloth, 
so as to remove all lumps and particles of butter, add sugar until 
very sweet and flavor with vanilla. Freeze as directed. 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 353 



Caramel Ice-cream. — One and a half pounds brown sugar, 
three quarts cream, one pint boiling milk. Put sugar in an iron 
frying-pan on fire and stir until it is a liquid, stir it in the milk, 
strain, and when cool add to cream. Whipping all or part of the 
cream makes it more delicious. Or to any of the cooked founda- 
tions or preparations add only half the sugar to the milk or cream 
and make a caramel as above with the rest, add to boiled mixture, 
strain, cool and freeze. The flavor may be varied by browning the 
sugar more or less. ^ 

Chestnut Ice-cream. — The native chestnut may be used, but is 
not as fine as the Italian variety. Boil, and to a quarter pound pulp 
add two tablespoons sugar, and four of cream, rub to a smooth 
paste and add it to three pints cream, three teacups sugar and 
twelve eggs ; cook, strain, cool, freeze, and add, just before packing, 
a pint cream, whipped, and juice of one orange. 

Ohocolate Ice-cream. — Scald one pint new milk, add by de 
grees three-quarters pound sugar, two eggs, and five tablespoons 
grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little milk. ^ Beat well for a 
moment or two, place over fire and heat until it thickens, stir- 
ring constantly, set off, add a tablespoon of thin, dissolved gelatine, 
and when cold, place in freezer; when it begins to set, add a quart of 
rich cream, half of it well whipped. To make a 
mold of chocolate and vanilla, freeze in separate 
freezers, divide a mold through the center with 
card-board, fill each division with a different 
cream, and set mold in ice and salt for an hour or ^a°oy ice-oream. 

more. For that delicious preparation, Chocolate Fruit Ice-cream^ 
add when cream is frozen French candied fruit, or a coffee-cup preserv- 
ed peaches, or any other preserves, prepared as directed. For Spiced 
Chocolate Ice-cream, cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar; 
prepare spice by pouring over three-quarters teaspoon best pulver- 
ized cinnamon, seven tablespoons boiling water and let stand on 
back of stove, (must not boil), twenty minutes ; pour off clear liquid 
and add to it quarter pound grated chocolate, or less if not wished 
highly flavored. Add this to the hot cream, strain, cool and freeze 
as directed. When half frozen add one pint cream, whipped and fla- 
vored with half teaspoon vanilla. Delicious served in glasses or 
dishes covered with tablespoon whipped cream or meringue, also 
very dainty molded in individual molds and surrounded with whip- 
ped cream. For Chocolate Caramel^ make as above, using four 
tablespoons caramel in place of cinnamon, adding it with the whip- 
ped cream and vanilla. Or to the above hot cream mixture add a 
chocolate paste made as follows : Stir in a dish, set in pan of hot 
water, six tablespoons grated chocolate, two tablespoons each sugar 
and boiling water, till smooth and glossy ; adding whipped white of 
an egg just before removing from fire, is an improvement. After add- 
23 




354 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



ing to mixture, strain, cool, freeze and finish as above, adding wliip- 
ped cream and flavoring. For Chocolate Custard^ to any two 
quarts custard preparation add the above paste and one table- 
spoon dissolved gelatine and proceed as above. For Chocolate Moss, 
mix one quart double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, and drained 
on sieve, with half pound sugar and three-quarters tablespoon vanilla. 
Meantime have two squares Baker's chocolate melted by plac- 
ing in a small tin basin over a teakettle boiling water. Stir choco- 
late carefully into the whipped cream. Pour into freezer, taking 
out beater, or in a pail and freeze without stirring. When wished 
for the table, dip a cloth in boiling water and wrap about the freezer 
until the cream slides out, or better, let freezer stand in warm room 
for a little while. Slice and it looks like variegated moss. Two 
tablespoons gelatine, soaked in cold water two or three hours, may 
be added to the whipped cream. Five tablespoons grated choco- 
late to each quart liquid, in any of the above recipes, gives a pleas- 
ant flavored ice-cream. 

Cocoa-nut Ice-cream. — Cook one pint milk, three eggs, grated 
rind of one lemon and a teacup and a half sugar in custard kettle ; 
when thickened, strain, cool, freeze, and when half frozen add cup 
grated fresh cocoa-nut, prepared as candied fruits in Cabinet Ice- 
cream, one quart cream, whipped, and juice of one lemon. Des- 
sicated cocoa-nut can be used without any preparation. 

Custard Ice-cream. — Beat yolks of five eggs,add eight well round- 
ed tablespoons white sugar ; boil a quart milk, stir with it one table- 
spoon corn-starch (previously dissolved in a little cold milk) ; when 
cooked until as cream, cool, add one quait cream, the eggs and 
sugar ; season with lemon or vanilla and freeze. Plain custard is 
also good frozen. Sliced peaches greatly improve this or any 
frozen custard, added just before serving the cream. 

Coif'ee Ice-cream. — Grind very fine a quarter pound coffee, 
half each Mocha and Java, or use the pulverized, taking only half as 
much. Put one quart cream on in custard kettle ; when hot add 
coffee and cook ten or fifteen minutes, strain, add pint more cream, 
yolks of twelve eggs and three teacups sugar ; cook, strain, cool, 
freeze and when half frozen add pint cream, whipped, and also the 
whites ; or where the made coffee is used, scald a pint milk and stir 
in a tablespoon arrowroot, mixed smooth in a little cold cream, add 
two cups sugar and cup very strong clear coffee sv»^eetened to taste ; 
when cold stir in quart cream, whipped, and freeze ; or for Whipped 
Coffee Ice-cream, whip one quart double cream, add cup each 
sugar and strong black coffee, whip to a froth, pile in goblets, freeze 
and serve. In winter time can be placed out doors or in summer 
time in Cave as described. For White Coffee Ice-cream, pour one 
quart boiling cream over half pound freshly roasted whole Mocha 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 355 




and Java, half and half; place in custard kettle and keep on back 
of range for an hour or so, where water in outer kettle will keep hot, 
not boil • strain, return to inner kettle and add yolks of twelve eggs, 
beaten smooth with teacup and half sugar ; when it begins to thicken, 

take off, strain, cool, freeze, and when half 
done add pint cream, whipped, and if 
^5^1^^^ wanted very delicious the well-frothed 
_ "_ whites may be used; if so, add with the 
"cotfee Icecream. ci'cam, and use in the custard a half teacup 

more sugar. Mold in melon mold and serve surrounded by whip- 
ped cream. Tea Ice-cream is made as above, using one ounce 
tea. 

Eggless Ice-cream. — One quart cream,two quarts new milk, scant 
half teacup flour, or two tablespoons, and one and a half pounds gran- 
ulated sugar, or three teacups ; put three pints milk in custard 
kettle, or in pail, set in kettle of water ; when hot stir in flour, 
previously mixed smooth in one pint new milk ; let cook ten 
or fifteen minutes, stirring once or twice, then add sugar and 
stir constantly for a few minutes till it is well dissolved. Remove 
and strain while hot through a crash strainer. When cold add one 
pint cream and place in freezer. When half frozen, take a wooden 
paddle, scrape down sides and stir in well one pint double cream, 
previously whipped and flavored with one and a half tablespoons va- 
nilla, put on cover and pack as directed. This makes one gallon and 
is sufficient for two dozen dishes ; or take in all three pints new milk, 
one and a quarter pints cream, one tablespoon flour, two teacups 
sugar, and one tablespoon vanilla, and prepare as above, reserving 
and whipping all instead of part of cream and adding when half 
frozen. This makes sufficient for sixteen or eighteen dishes and 
any proportion may be taken for a less number. For Vig Ice-cream 
two teacups figs cut fine may be added jvith the whipped cream. 
For Almond Ice-cream., to each quart liquid, milk or cream, use four 
ounces shelled almonds prepared as follows : Blanch and pound to 
a paste with ha,lf pint cream or milk and four tablespoons sugar, re- 
served from above quantities and a few drops rose water to prevent 
oiling of nuts ; add to milk in custard kettle and cook with rest of 
sugar ; finish as above and add with whipped cream half teaspoon 
almond extract and quarter teaspoon vanilla; or if a mOre decided 
nutty taste is wished add the nuts with the flavoring ; or for Car- 
amel Cream add in proportion of two tablepoons caramel, made as 
directed, and a quarter teaspoon vanilla to each quart liquid 
when preparation is half frozen. For Filbert Ice-cream., make 
as the Almond and Almond Caramel, 

Any of the recipes with fruit, nut or any flavor where all cream 
is used can be made as above, using same proportions of liquid, 
only two-thirds new milk to one-third cream, or half and half, or any 
proportion wished, preparing milk as above, and adding other in- 



356 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 




gredients as in recipe. In whipping cream for ice-cream, if double 
cream is used, it is not always necessary to drain on sieve, asr it will 
all whip stiff enough to be used. 

Gelatine Ice-cream. — Soak one half package of Cox's gelatine 
m a pint new milk ; boil two pints new milk, and pint and a third 
sugar, strain, add the soaked gelatine, stirring well ; Avhen cold add 
one quart cream, tablespoon vanilla, and freeze ; or reserve half of 
cream, whip and add as directed. 

Ginger Ice-cream. — Bruise four ounces preserved ginger in a 
mortar or bowl, using potato masher, add two-thirds pint powdered 
sugar, and one pint cream ; mix well, strain, freeze and when ready 
to pack add two ounces preserved ginger, cut in dice, and juice of 
one lemon and pint cream, whipped. 

Harlequin Ice-cream. — This is any three ice-creams wished 
arranged in layers, as illustrated, in the Brick mold ; vanilla, pistachio 

and strawberry are used together, or choco- 
late, strawberry and vanilla, or almond, 
or any nut or fruit cream, or a water-ice 
is used for one layer. The mold is then 
bound and packed as directed. 

HicJcory-nut Ice-cream. — A pound hickory-nut kernels, two 
cups sugar, quart cream. Pick over the kernels carefully for pieces 
of shell, then pound in a mortar with a little sugar and water added. 
Put two tablespoons of the sugar over fire without water, stir con- 
stantly till melted and browned, add a little water to dissolve it, 
then add to cream with the sugar and nut paste and freeze. 

Jam Ice-cream. — Prepare one pound of jam as directed, add 
one and a quarter pints cream, mix well and strain, freeze, and 
when partly frozen add juice of one lemon. Apricot, Raspberry, etc., 
are very nice made in this way. 

Kentucky Ice-cream. — Make a half gallon rich boiled custard, 
sweeten to taste, add two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a half 
cup cold milk ; let the custard cool, put it in freezer, and as soon as 
it begins to freeze add one quart cream, whipped, and just before 
-Berving one pound raisins and one pint strawberry preserves. 
Blanched almonds or grated cocoa-nut are additions. Some pre- 
fer currants to raisins, and some also add citron chopped fine. 

Italian Ice-cream. — Whip three pints cream and add to it 
three-quarters pound best pulverized sugar and tablespoon vanilla ; 
freeze, and when frozen and ready for packing stir carefully into it 
the following : Half teacup granulated sugar, cooked in quarter pint 
water till it "threads" when a little is taken up on a spoon, or will 
become as soft wax when tested in cold water ; then pour it slowly 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 357 



over the well-frothed whites of two eggs, pouring with the left hand 
and beating constantly with the right, as in making Boiled Icing, 
till it is cold. After stirring into frozen cream, cover and pack as 
directed, or the cream may be cooked instead of whipped. For 
Italian Custard Ice-cream^ cook the cream with two teacups gran- 
ulated sugar, yolks of nine eggs ; strain, cool, add the vanilla, freeze 
and finish as above. For Whipped Ice-cream, whip quart cream, 
add two-thirds pint pulverized sugar and half tablespoon vanilla ; 
freeze as directed. Any other flavoring may be used. 

Lemon Ice-cream, — To two quarts sour cream that has soured 
quickly, take one of sweet cream, pound and a half sugar, the juice 
and rind of one lemon ; cut the rind thin, and steep it ten or fifteen 
minutes in half a pint of the sweet cream over boiling water ; strain, 
cool, and add to the rest, and freeze ; or make a custard of one quart 
cream, yolks of six eggs and three and a half teacups sugar, (reserving 
six tablespoons, two for preparing the zest, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, 
and four to mix with the juice, obtained as directed, of three lemons 
and one small orange ;) let boil, strain, cool and freeze : To grated 
rind of two lemons, being careful not to grate any of white pith, as 
it is bitter, add the prepared juice, let stand an hour or two, strain and 
add with pint cream, whipped, and the well beaten whites, to the cus- 
tard when half frozen ; or make as above, omitting juice and rind 
and flavor with tablespoon lemon extract. 

Macaroon Ice-cream. — One and one-half pints cream, half tea- 
cup dry macaroons, grated and sifted, teacup white sugar, yellow rind 
of one orange, grated, and the juice of two. Whip cream, add sugar, 
freeze, and when half frozen add macaroons and the orange juice and 
rind ; or to any half frozen preparation, in proportion of teacup 
or half pound sugar to each quart cream or milk, add the sifted 
macaroons and if almond macaroons add six drops extract almond 
to same. For Macaroon Caramel, first roast macaroons to a yellow 
brown and add a few drops caramel, and for Triple Ice-cream 
make as above and add tablespoon each sponge cake, macaroon and 
meringue crumbs, prepared by grating and sifting when dry. Flavor 
with teaspoon and a half nectarine extract. Serve in the little 
cases, first placing them in the "cave" as described. 

New York Ice-cream. — Boil quart thin cream, with teacup 
and a half sugar and a vanilla bean in it. Beat yolks of twelve eggs 
light and pour the boiling cream to them. Set on fire again for a 
minute. This yellow custard vnW. not become 
frothy, rich and 1 ght in the freezer if cooked too 
much, and should be taken ofi" and strained as 
soon as slightly thickened. Freeze as directed. 
Mold in a round mold with a chocolate cream for center layer and 
a lemon cream above. This is very delicious. 




358 ICES ANr ICE-CREAM- 




0,'ange Ice-cream. — Cook two quarts cream and two teacups 
sugar, cool, strain and freeze. Prepare juice of one dozen oranges 
and one lercon as in Saratoga Ice-cream, add grated rind of two 
oranges, and cook to a syrup with one and one-third teacups sugar, 
strain, cool and mix with cream when half frozen. Strawherry 
Ice-cream is made as above, first preparing one quart juice from 
two or three quarts berries, by mashing through the wire sieve, add- 
ing? to pu'p in sieve when juice ceases to run, two-thirds teacup sugar 
(this is in addition to quantity given for ice-cream), let stand an 
hour, mash, strain and add to first juice, then cook to a syrup and 
finish i-i above A teaspoon or two orange juice added with the 
syrup makes 3 delicious flavor. Raspberry Ice-cream is made as 
the Strawberry using the Cuthbert variety. For Riced Orange Ice- 
cream., wash and parboil eight or nine tablespoons best rice, put 
in custard kettle with quart milk and pint 
cream, teacup and a half sugar and a pinch 
salt ; cook till grains are almost dissolved ; when 
done, stir in yolks of six eggs and two tea- 
spoons vanilla, mix well together, freeze as 

directed, then place in mold and pack. When Riced orange loe-eream. 
ready to serve take from mold and place on the top and around 
the base a dozen oranges prepared as in Orange Compote. 

Peavh Ice-cream. — Mash to a pulp one quart peaches, strain 
through a hair sieve and add six ounces of loaf-sugar which has 
been on range to dissolve a few minutes ; add one pint and a half 
cream, a few drops of cochineal to give a nice peach-color and freeze 
as directed ; or cook three pints cream and two teacups sugar, strain 
and when cool freeze ; \vhen half frozen add one heaping pint peach 
pulp mixed to a smooth paste with two teacups sugar and add also 
the pint of cream, whipped. Two quarts peaches make one pint 
pulp. If wished, reserve quarter of them, cut in dice and add to 
cream just before serving. To prepare pulp do not peel till just 
ready to use, as all light fruits darken so quickly, and it is better to 
even drop in cold water as soon as peeled, but must not remain 
long as juice will be extracted; chop in fruit 
bowl, mash, and add sugar as above, stirring till 
__^ _^_ _ dissolved and strain before adding to frozen cream. 

pe^ioe-oream. If Pcach Flavor is used, take twice as much as of 

the pulp and mix it with the cooked cream after 
latter has cooled. Canned peaches are used same way as fresh fruit, 
utilizing the juice for pudding sauces or ices. Any of above recipes 
may be molded and surrounded with pieces of the fruit when served. 
Nice Apricot and Apple Ice-cream may be made as above, except do 
not pare fruit. Plum and Cherry Ice-cream are made same way, 
except after stoning and mashing the fruit add a few of the kernels 
pounded to a paste, and the dark fruits can stand an hour or so, 
etirring occarsionally j if the light fruits are placed in a covered 




ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 359 




dish they may also be kept awhile and will strain easier. Any fruit 
maybe used as above and for Swiss Ice- cr ea7)i whip all of the 
cream, instead of cooking a part, using powdered sugar and not 
straining ; freeze, add fruit and finish as above, and if Avished even 
more delicious add with the fruit whites of six eggs, beaten with a 
quarter teacup sugar. 

Pine-apple Ice-cream. — Three pints cream, two large ripe pine- 
apples, pared, and eyes, heart or core removed, as latter is bitter, two 
pounds powdered sugar ; slice pme-apples thin, scatter sugar between 
slices, cover and let stand three hours ; cut or chop it up in the 
syrup, and strain through a hair seive or double bag of coarse lace ; 
beat gradually into the cream, and freeze, adding when half frozen a 
pint of cream, whipped ; reserve a few pieces of pine-apple, unsugared, 
cut into square bits, and stir through cream when 
frozen. Peach Ice-cream may be made in same 
way ; or for Saratoga Ice-cream, take above pro- 
portions, using granulated sugar ; cook the cream 
and two teacups sugar, strain, cool and freeze and 
when half frozen,add fruit j nice prepared as follows :_ ,^'°"7'^_ '"=^"="'^- 
Mash and strain the pulp, a heaping pint, and to this add juice of two 
oranges and one lemon. (To better obtain juice of latter, roll, rub with 
a spoonful or two of sugar to obtain the zest, then pare, scrape off all 
of the inner white rind dov.ai to pulp, as this is bitter, cut in half, 
pick out seeds, squeeze out juice, dissolve the zest in it and strain.) 
Cook all the juice with two teacups sugar to a syrup, strain and cool 
and add with the pint of cream, whipped, when preparation is half 
frozen. Mold and serve with whipped cream as a garnish. Pine 
apple darken>s very quickly and should be cooked as soon as pre- 
pared. Banana Ice-cream is made as above, using teacup less sugar, 
and juice of one lemon, or half and half orange and lemon. 

Strawberry Ice-cream. — Sprinkle strawberries with sugar, 
mash well and rub through a sieve ; to a pint juice add half a pint 
good cream, make very sweet, freeze, and when half frozen, stir in 
lightly one pint of cream, whipped, and handful of whole strawber- 
ries, sweetened. Mold and pack ; or mash with a potato pounder in 
an earthen bowl one quart of strawberries with one pound of sugar; 
rub through a colander, add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Or if 
not in the strawberry season, use the French bottled strawberries (or 
any canned ones), mix juice with half a pint of cream, sweeten, freeze 
and add whipped cream and strawberries as above. Peach or Apple 
Ice-cream may be made in same way, using very ripe peaches and 
the yellow bellflower apple. In molding, one can put an inch layer 
of any of the above fruit creams and then fill with Vanilla Ice-cream, 
dropping in here and there a little candied fruit. This makes Cab- 
inet Ice-cream and can be prettily molded by placing carefully some 
of the candied fruit next mold bf^fore filling, and more elaborately 



360 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



by filling the mold two-thirds full of Almond Ice-cream ; set it in bed 
of ice and salt ; then to two quarts ice-cream, whip half pint double 
cream, mix in lightly one-thiircl pint pulverized sugar and add quar- 
ter pound each blanched almonds, candied cherries, pears and 
apricots, first soaking fruits and nuts in a hot sugar syrup till soft, 
then chopping into dice and lightly dusting with pulverized sugar ; 
mix this prepared cream carefully through the ice-cream in mold, 
put on cover, bind and pack as directed. For Surprise Ice-cream^ 
put three pints of strawberries in a deep dish with one cup pulverized 
sugar and juice of one orange ; whip four pints cream and add two 
cups sugar, freeze, take out beater and draw frozen cream to sides of 
freezer. Fill space in center with the strawberries and sugar, and 
pile the frozen cream over them. Put on cover and pack as di- 
rected. When the cream is turned out, garnish the base with straw- 
berries. Raspberries or any fruit may be used in same way, taking 
a little less sugar for sweeter fruits, and may be molded as in Fruit 
Surprise. 

Tea Ice-cream. — Pour a pint cream over four tablespoons Old 
Hyson tea, scald in custard kettle, or by placing the dish contain- 
ing it in a kettle of boiling water, remove from fire and let stand 
five minutes ; strain into a pint coM cream, scald again, and when 
hot mix with it four eggs and teacisp and a half sugar, well beaten 
together ; let cool and freeze. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. — Mix three pints sweet cream, pint new 
milk, pint pulverized sugar, whites of two eggs, beaten light ; freeze. 
Serve plain or as Fruit Surprise by lining a mold with it, then fill 
center with fresh berries, sweetened, or fruit cut in slices, and cover 
with the ice-cream, put on lid, bind and set in freezer for half an 
hour, with salt and ice well packed around it. The fruit must be 
chilled, but not frozen. Strawberries and peaches are delicious thus 
prepared. Or for Vanilla Custard Ice-cream, cook in kettle in 
proportion of one quart cream, six eggs and teacup and a half sugar ; 
strain, cool, add third of tablespoon vanilla and freeze as directed ; 
reserving the whites, beating and adding when custarri is half frozen, 
makes it lighter ; adding when this is frozen ready to pack, half pint 
mixed candied cherries, raisins, currants and citron prepared as in 
Cabinet Ice-cream, makes Tutti Frutti Ice-cream. 

Cream Biscuit— lihese are generally made of all cream,although 
we give a recipe with part milk and three with a syrup. The cream 
must be pure double cream, whipped to a stiff froth and drained on 
sieve as directed. There are oivl/ one or two kinds that are frozen 
as ice-cream ; for the others, molds, paper cases, fruit cases, etc., are 
filled with the mixture and placed in the cave, as directed, for three 
or four hours. The cave in which the ice-cream freezer is utilized is 
best, and using the same care in packing as with ice-cream there 
would be no necessity for a different cover or for binding the joint 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 361 



after covered ; so the only additional article needed would be a set 
of shelves to fill the size freezer used, and it would be wise to have 
two or three extra shelves with feet of different heights so that in- 
dividual molds, glasses, fruit cases and any other receptacle in 
which ice-cream, biscuits, ices, etc., are molded could be frozen. 
Or as a substitute for all a large tin pail can be used for freezer and 
round pieces to fit made of heavy white card-board for shelves, plac- 
ing them on top each layer of cases, etc. When thus used do not 
fill cases quite full and after placing a layer of them in pail, cover 
with a round piece of clean white paper to fit, then the card-board 
shelf, then more cases and so on till all are used, when cover pail, pack 
and finish as directed. Below are recipes of difierent varieties of 
biscuits. 

Custard Biscuit. — Beat well eight yolks of eggs, with teacup 
and a quarter sugar, a very little salt and one pint cream. Stir over 
the fire until slightly thickened. Flavor with either vanilla pow< 
der, the almond or lemon extract or cofiee or chocolate. It may also 
be made by adding 2^ puree of peaches, strawberries, raspberries, or 
pine-apple to custard. Freeze as ice-cream and when half frozen 
stir in lightly one-half pint of cream, whipped ; then partly fill pa- 
per cases with the mixture, smooth over the tops and place in ice- 
cream cave. 

Fruit Biscuit. — Beat yolks of eight eggs and four teacups 
sugar well together, add quart of any fruit juice, cook in custard 
kettle, strain and place on ice, and add to it two ounces gelatine, dis- 
solved by adding a very little warm water, placing it in pan of hot 
water and setting on back of range. When mixture thickens add 
quart cream, fill cases, and place in cave. 

-' Italian Biscuit. — Boil together pint each granulated sugar and 
water twenty minutes, add well-beaten white of an egg and boil ten 
minutes longer. Strain into an earthen dish and add yolks of 
twelve eggs and whites of two and five tablespoons orange juice. 
Set dish in a pan of hot water during process of beating. Beat 
briskly until it resembles a well-prepared, firm, sponge-cake batter. 
Fill cases with it and smooth over tops and pack and freeze as 
above. Or the mixture may be frozen in one mold, and some sifted 
macaroon nowder or grated chocolate sprinkled over the surface, to 
imitate a baked souMe., and with care the hot salamander maybe used. 
By adding three-quarters pint peach pulp and stirring lightly with 
tlie mixture half pint cream, whipped, and a quarter teaspoon va- 
nilla, luscious Peach Biscuity^''\Vi be the result, and can be filled in 
paper cases, or in the Brick mold, or in a long mold just the •nddth and 
height of the cases, and when frozen, turn out, cut in slices, or if in 
long mold in pieces size of cases and frost with a Chocolate Ice., 
made of half pint syrup and four ounces best chocolate, smoothly 
mixed, and frozen ; or a Strawberry or Raspberry Ice may be used, 



862 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



and some add to the ice whites of three eggs beaten well with three 
tablespoons sugar. Serve in paper cases. Or for Strawberry 
Biscuit add pint strawberry pulp instead of peach and then the 
half pint cream, whipped. Fill in cases and surround each with a 
band of stiff paper, reaching half an inch above the edge of the 
case, pinning ends together to secure them ; freeze in cave, and when 
ready to serve, remove the bands and cover with macaroons bruised 
fine and browned in oven, and one can quickly use the Salamander 
iron if liked. The bands of paper are meant to give the appearance 
to the biscuit of having risen in process of baking. 

NM Biscuit. — Make a syrup as in Vanilla Biscuit, cool and 
add the nuts blanched and prepared as for ice-cream, quarter pound 
shelled nuts to each quart cream, and the well-beaten yolks of eight 
eggs ; return to fire, stir quickly till it thickens, coating the spoon, 
then strain into a large bowl and beat till cold. Whip quart cream 
and add lightly with half teaspoon almond extract, if almond or 
pistachio nuts are used, and fill in cases. Any fiiavoring may be 
used, and blanched nuts and candied fruits, prepared as in Cabinet 
Ice-cream, may be added just before filling cases. 

Vanilla Biscuit. — Beat well together the yolks of eight eggs, 
and eight ounces powdered sugar. Flavor one pint new milk with 
vanilla, and boil it. Dissolve in a vessel set in hot water one and 
a half ounce of gelatine, and as soon as it is dissolved mix with the 
boiling milk, pour slowly over eggs and sugar, stirring all the time ; 
when well mixed pass through a sieve and put in very cold place to 
cool. Whip one pint cream and add it slowly to the cold mixture ; 
fill cases and freeze. Or, With Syrup., cook in custard kettle tea- 
cup and a quarter sugar and one gill water, add yolks of eight eggs 
and stir well for five or ten minutes ; strain into an earthen bowl 
and beat Vvith an egg beater till it is stiff" and cold. Whip quart 
thick double cream, flavor with quarter tablespoon vanilla and stir 
it lightly into the above ; fill the cases, pack in cave, and finish as 
directed ; or part of mixture may be colored and flavored with rasp- 
berry syrup and placed in bottom of cases, then fill them with the 
plain vanilla and freeze. Or in Fruit Biscuit., fill two-thirds full 
with the mixture^ freeze, and fill up with some water-ice that blends 
with the flavor used in mixture : For Strawberry Biscuit use a 
layer of Orange Ice ; for Pineapple Biscuit, Lemon Ice, etc. Any of 
the above mixtures may be made more elaborate by glazing, but as 
that needs a confectioner's skill we will not describe it; but the mere 
icing of them is given in Strav\^berry Biscuit, and one can cover 
their tops when ready to serve with whipped cream or mth a plain 
meringue, and the mixture can also be filled in Lemon or Orange 
cases, made by cutting off "top from fruit and carefully removing 
pulp. 

Sherhet Crystal. — Boil one pint sugar and pint and half 



ICES AND ICE-CEEAM. S63 



water fifteen or twenty minutes, beat yolks of fifteen eggs very light 
and strain. Place syrup in custard kettle and add yolks, beating 
with an egg-whisk for ten minutes. Remove inner kettle from fire, 
place in a pan of cold water and continue beating fifteen min- 
utes. Pack mold in ice and salt, and spread on sides and bottom 
of it one quart Strawberry or Raspberry Sherbet ; when hardened, 
put the cooked mixture in center, being careful not to disturb the 
sherbet, cover all with a piece of thick white paper, put on cover 
and finish as directed in packing molds. 

Glazed Meringue. — Any ice-cream maybe meringued and glazed 
successfully. Boil three-quarters pint milk and stir in tablespoon gela- 
tine that has been soaked an hour or two in half cup cold water, strain 
into quart cream, add tablespoon vanilla and half pound pulverized 
sugar ; when frozen, take out beater and pack the cream smoothly, be- 
ing careful to have the top perfectly level,and pack with ice as directed. 
When ready to serve, make a meringue of the whites of six eggs and 
six tablespoons pulverized sugar. Turn the cream out on a fancy 
dish and cover every part well with the meringue. Brown with a 
red hot salamander or shovel and serve immediately ; or put the 
frozen cream in round mold and imbed in ice and salt; have a 
flat round sponge cake on plate, and when ready to serve turn mold 
quickly out upon it, cover with the meringue and glaze as above. 
Another way to serve any ice cream, without the glazing, is to bake 
a sponge cake in one of the crown molds, ice it with a white icing, 
and when ready to serve place on platter, spread inside with any 
fruit jelly liked and fill center with any ice-cream, frozen in freezer 
but not molded ; heap whipped cream, sweetened, on top of center 
and around base of cake and serve. 

Frozen Pudding. — Put one pint milk in custard kettle, beat 
three eggs and teacup sugar together, and add, stirring all the while. 
Pour the hot custard on twenty-five dry lady fingers, add cup dried 
currants and let cool. When cold, add two tablespoons orange 
juice and pint cream, whipped to a froth. Freeze the same as ice- 
cream. When frozen wet a melon mold in cold water, sprinkle a few 
currants on the sides and bottom and fill with frozen mixture ; bind 
and pack as directed. Serve with Apricot Sauce around it. Or 
With ^'eZa^iW, take dozen each macaroons and cocoa-nut cakes, doz- 
en and a half lady fingers, and a cup dried currants. Prepare mold as 
above, sprinkle sides and bottom with currants and put in lay- 
ers of the cakes, sprinkling with currants till all are used. Put a 
pint and a half milk in custard kettle, when hot, stir in two table- 
spoons gelatine, soaked one hour in half cup cold milk, then add 
four eggs beaten well Avith teacup sugar, and cook four minutes, stir- 
ring all the while. Take ofi", and add pinch salt and one teaspoon 
vanilla. Pour this, a few spoonfuls at a time, on the cake and let 
cool. When cold, cover with thick white paper, and it is well to 



364 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



let paper extend over the edges and then close the cover tight upon 
it ; bind and pack in ice and salt. Or a more elaborate pudding is made 
by adding to the gelatine custard a pint cream and three more eggs, 
while cooking ; remove from fire and add half tablespoon nectarine 
extract and strain into mold till within half an inch of top, 
having first half filled it with cake, fruit and nuts, placed in layers as 
above, using macaroons, lady fingers, currants, seedless raisins, 
citron and blanched almonds, preparing currants, raisins and cit- 
ron as in Cabinet Ice-cream and chopping the almonds. Now cut 
a piece from a sheet of sponge cake to fit top and place on the cus- 
tard, cover tightly with the lid and let the pudding cool. When 
cold, bind and pack as directed, for three or four hours. Serve with 
any pudding sauce, or a rich custard, or whipped cream, sweetened. 
Any kind of stale cake, macaroons or meringues, dried or preserved 
fruit, candied fruit or flavoring may be used, although for the latter 
our confectioner tells us that Nectarine Extract is more delicious 
for cabinet puddings ; while we have had success in all fruit pud- 
dings in mixing the flavor, vanilla and lemon, half and half. The 
famous Nesselrode Pudding can be made with or without eggs and 
difiers very little from any of the iced puddings, save there must be 
chestnuts in it. With £ggs, boil or blanch forty chestnuts, and as 
in ice-cream the Italian are best to use, peel, mash and rub through 
a sieve and cook in custard kettle with yolks of twelve eggs, pint 
cream and two teacups sugar; when it thickens strain and add 
teaspoon vanilla and pinch salt ; or mix the chestnut pulp with clari- 
fied syrup, pint sugar and pint water, as in Italian Biscuit, add cream 
and eggs as above and place in custard kettle, stirring constantly 
until it begins to thicken, remove and add vanilla. When either 
mixture is cold, put in freezer and freeze, adding when partly frozen, 
four tablespoons orange juice, pint of cream, whipped, and two 
ounces each citron, currants and raisins, three ounces each preserved 
pine-apples, and candied apricots and cherries, soaked or cooked in 
syrup as above; then chop raisins, slice citron very fine and cut the 
pine-apple and apricots into dice ; or put mixture in freezer, and 
freeze without stirring, scraping down the cream from sides of can 
with the paddle as fast as it freezes and lightly mixing till smooth. 
Cover, and when frozen place inmold, stirring carefully into it the 
fruit prepared as above, and pint cream, whipped ; cover, bind, and 
set in cave. To make Without Eggs, take a pint chestnut pulp, add 
two teacups sugar and rub to a smooth paste, add teaspoon vanilla 
and mix it gently with a pint of cream, whipped ; put in freezer and 
freeze without stirring, as above ; then add to it quarter pound each 
currants, raisins and citron, prepared as directed ; put in molds and 
place in cave or the pail as described. Serve with any pudding 
sauce, custard or whipped cream. Or, With Pineapple, boil one 
pint and a half shelled chestnuts half an hour, rub off skins, pound 
to a paste and to it add a pint shelled almonds, blanched and pre- 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM, 365 




pared as above. Make a syrup of pint each sugar and water and the 
juice from one can pine-apple, cook twenty minutes in custard kettle 
and add beaten yolks of eleven eggs, placing on 
back of range and stirring constantly till it thick- 
ens, some using an egg beater. Take off, place 
inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat 
fifteen minutes longer and let cool; then mix 
nut paste with half pint cream and rub through* 
the sieve, add to mixture and freeze. Prepare Meiion Moii 

three-quarters pound mixed French candied fruit, as in Cabinet 
Ice-cream, chop and add with the canned pine-apple cut fine, table- 
spoon vanilla, six tablespoons orange juice and half pint cream, 
whipped, when mixture is half frozen, or when ready to mold. 
A melon mold makes the handsomest dish and when served 
stick here and there roasted chestnuts or blanched almonds, dipped 
in a candy syrup, then slightly cooled, and also garnish the melon 
with them. Some add the candied fruit, flavoring, etc., to the 
mixture before freezing, but the extra trouble will well repay one. 

Strawberry Vanity. — Beat yolks of nine eggs and two teacups 
pulverized sugar to a cream, and to this add one quart strawberry 
juice, prepared as for Strawberry Ice-cream, mixed Avith two teacups 
sugar till all dissolved. Place mixture on ice and strain into it half 
box gelatine, dissolved, and when it thickens slightly, stir in gently 
one quart pure double cream, whipped. When it begins to harden, 
fill in a large mold, or individual molds, and packo Serve in two or 
three hours, as Vanities are more like the different creams and do 
not want to be as hard as ice-cream. Whole strawberries may be 
dropped in just before molding. Serve with whipped cream sweet- 
ened, or it is nice with simply sweetened cream, flavored with straw- 
berry juice<^ or with a custard made by cooking in custard kettle 
one pint milk or cream, yolks of three eggs and half teacup sugar ; 
remove from fire and add the well-whipped whites, quarter pint 
strawberry juice and a teaspoon orange juice andletbecome ice-cold. 
The same fiavor of Vanities can be made as of ice-creams, using same 
proportion of fruit juice as above, and candied and preserved fruits 
can be added as before in ice-creams. For other flavors as vanilIa,cof- 
fee, chocolate, etc., use quart water instead of fruit juice. Orange and 
Lemon Vanities may be served in the Fruit Cases by cutting off 
about an inch from the top of fruit corresponding to the Vanity, 
carefully taking out the pulp and filling with the mixture ; or a more 
economical way is to cut fruit in halves, take out pulp, then paste 
on a rim of buttered paper extending an inch and a half above the 
edge, fill and place in Ice-cream Cave ; or any Vanity can be filled in 
a cake-case as described on bottom of page 108 and then placed in 
cave. It would be better to first loosen cake from mold, then 
return to mold, carefully cut out center, fill and set in cave in 
the cake-mold, as that would keep it in shape. When ready to serve 



360 IcfiS AND TCE-CREAM, 



take out carefully, invert on platter, placing it right side up, and 
heap a meringue or whipped cream upon the Vanity in center. Ii^ 
Lemon Yanity use only one and a half pints juice, and in Bawinty 
and Chocolate use teacup less sugar. 



Ices. 

These are generally made of water, sugar and juice of fruits, al- 
though the fruit juice is used alone with its measurement of sugar, 
as pint for pint. The juice is obtained by rubbing fruit through a 
wire sieve, all except oranges and lemons (as with them none of the 
pulp is used), and then straining through the ice-cream, or threo 
cornered jelly strainer, although with peaches, apples, apricots, etc., 
some prefer the pulp also, and do not strain. Where any seeded 
fruits are used, it gives a fine flavor to leave a few of the kernels of 
the seed in the pulp for an hour or so, and some mash them to a 
paste and add, straining juice when used, but as in all flavoring, 
give only a slight hint rather than a decided taste. In making the 
first kind, if the water and sugar are not well mixed before freezing, 
ftbe sugar will sink to bottom and there will be a sharp unpleasant 
taste, or the mixture will be granular and mushy in texture, like a 
hardened mixture of sweetened snow and water, and melt very 
quickly, even in the freezer, if it is left open a few moments, and will 
soon become soft and spongy. But by following directions given 
ices can be made as smooth and firm as iSie best ice-cream and much 
resemble it in texture. The sugar and water must be cooked in a 
kettle to a clear syrup, clarified if not clear, scum removed, and 
the hot syrup strained through the ice-cream strainer and let be- 
come ice-cold. Pour it into freezer, packed as for ice-cream, add the 
strained fruit juice, and other materials, if any, and freeze as directed ; 
it will usually take from fifteen to twenty minutes to effect the first 
freezing of ices, as they require more time than ice-cream. Then 
open can, scrape down sides, and beat till smooth, and add { if 
three pints water) one white of egg, beatenwith a tablespoon pulver- 
ized sugar to a stiff" froth, or Meringue^ and work as smoothly as pos- 
sible. Too many whites of eggs are apt to give a milky look, as 
they melt out rapidly. Draw off" brine, renew ice and sa]t, place the 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 367 



"brine blanket" over all as in ice-cream, and let stand to harden and 
ripen, for two or three hours. Open can, renew beating, repack as 
before and when fr3zen, serve. 

Water-ices increase in bulk nu-half vhan frozen as above. For 
what are termed Gr.nites nr feliCiib /eg, where a syrup is not made 
nor the meringue added, turn out as soon as half frozen, or as wet 
snow. When Fruit Flavors are used, add them to the syrup when 
partially cooled, or place in dish in a pan f hot water and beat till 
melted and then add. Use earthen bctwls, crocks, wooden spoons, 
etc., for mixing as in i:e-cr2am. For ices, a good general rule is 
pint syrup to each pint fruit juice, or pint and a half Fruit Flavor, and 
to make syrup, take pint and a half granulated sugar to one pint 
water, boil fifteen minutes, add half of white of an egg, well beaten, 
let boil, strain and cool. Any of the fruit shrubs or fruit juices, 
canned expressly for this, make delicious ices, and juice from can- 
ned plums and all the berries may be used with good results. The 
above is one rule, but we give many different recipes that have been 
successfully used, making different grades of richness, flavoring, etc., 
although care must be taken not to make too sweet as it will not 
freeze as readily. 

Ices are usually served in glasses as illustrated, but if molded, must 
have a small quantity of dissolved gelatine added to enable them to 
keep their shape. After mold is filled make aX 

air-tight by placing a piece of writing paper 
around the edges, and then shutting cover 
of mold upon it ; bind and pack as directed, 

and when ready to serve wipe the ice and salt off mold very carefully 
and dip in cold water. Ices when frozen should be perfectly smooth 
and' soft enough to yield easily to the spoon, if brittle or solid it is 
an indication that too much water has been used. A pretty orna- 
mentation for them is made by preparing a gelatine jelly in the usual 
manner, then reduce by slow boiling to little more than half, color 
as desired, strain, flavor, and cool on large .platters, pouring it about 
third inch thick ; when cold cut out with any of the vegetable cut- 
ters, leaves, flowers,etc., place on the molded ices and also garnish with 
them when served. This is equally ornamental for ice-cream. 
Any fresh fruit cut in pieces, or candied or preserved fruit, or nuts, 
the last three prepared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, maybe added just 
before molding, or if not molded just before serving the ice. It is 




368 ICES AND XCE -CREAM. 



especially necessary with ices that they be beaten up well before 
dishing from freezer, and in using canned fruit use less water in 
proportion to fruit. 



Apple Ice. — Grate, sweeten and freeze yellow bellflower apples; 
canned apples may be mashed and prepared in same way. rears, 
peaches or quinces can also be frozen as above. Or make a syrup 
of three pints of water and four teacups sugar ; let cool. Quickly 
slice unpared, tart and nicely flavored apples^ then chop, mash and 
rub through wire sieve until a pint of pulp and juice is obtained, 
which add immediately to syrup ; freeze, add meringue and finish as 
directed. Peachy Pear, Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine and Plum Ices 
are made in same manner. Canned fruit may be used with less 
water in syrup and if Fruit Flavor is used, take proportion as given. 

Apricot Ice.—Qiwi in pieces two cups best apricots and stew 
with the blanched kernels in two cups water and one cup sugar un- 
til tender, then rub through sieve and put in freezer. Freeze, and 
when partly frokien beat in well-frothed whites of two eggs, or the 
meringue as descrrbed above, and finish as directed. Just before 
serving stir in cup sliced apricots. Canned apricots may be used 
with their syrup using less water. Peach Ice may be prepared in 
same way. 

Cherry Ice. — Take two quarts sweet cherries, one of water and 
three teacups sugar. Pound fruit in mortar so as to break the stonea 
and strain the juice through a fine strainer. Boil the cherry pulp 
with some of the sugar and water to extract the flavor from the ker- 
nels, and rub that through the sieve ; mix all together and freeze. 
This may be molded with a nut cream by lining a mold with the 
ice and filling the middle with the cream; bind and pack as 
directed. Or if served direct from the freezer, place the ice as a border 
in the individual dishes aud the nut ice-cream in the center. This 
is a nice way to serve different creams and ices. 

Citron Ice. — Make two quarts rich lemonade, well flavored with 
the rind ; if grated rind is used, the lemonade must be strained before 
putting in citron. Slice enough citron thin and small to loosely 
fill a half-pint measure, and add to lemonade. Let boil a moment, 
or if made previous evening, this will not be necessary ; cool, freeze, 
and when partly frozen add the meringue and finish as directed. 
Preserved Watermelon can be used in same way. 

Currant Ice. — Boil down three pints water and a pound and a 
half sugar to a quart, skim, add two cups currant juice, and when 
partly frozen, add whites of five eggs. 



ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 369 



Gooseherry Ice. — Stew gooseberries until soft, squeeze through 
ice-cream strainer, and to every pint juice add pint and a half gran- 
ulated sugar and pint water ; mix well, and freeze ; when half frozen 
add whipped whites of three eggs. 

Orape Ice. — Stew a cup ripe Concord grapes, mash with a pint 
sugar, add juice of a lemon and pint water, strain and freeze. 

Lemon Ice. — To one pint lemon juice, add one quart sugar, and 
one quart water, in which the thin rind of three lemons has been 
allowed to stand until highly flavored ; when partly frozen add the 
whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Or prepare nine lemons 
and three oranges, as in Saratoga Ice-cream, being very careful to 
extract every seed, as they cause a bitter taste. To a syrup made of 
quart and a half water and four teacups sugar add lemon juice, will 
be about half pint, and half as much orange, and when partly frozen 
add the meringue of one egg ; prepare zest from only half the. lemons. 
Serve in glasses with tablespoon meringue, (whites of two eggs 
beaten well with two tablespoons sugar), flavored with orange juice, 
on each glass. 

Orange Ice. — Make as above, using nine oranges and one lemon j 
■when frozen fill in the orange fruit cases and place in Ice-cream 
Cave for three or four hours, and it is then made more delicious by 
covering the ice in each case with a meringue and browning quickly 
with a red hot salamander, serving immediately. The orange pulp 
taken from cases can be used in obtaining juice. Or make a thick 
syrup by boiling two teacups sugar with teacup water ; divide three 
of the oranges, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and drop the 
pieces into the boiling syrup, first extracting the seeds ; grate the 
yellow zest of the remaining three oranges into a bowl and squeeze 
m the juice; then pour the syrup from the scalded slices into the 
bowl, and keep the slices on ice, to be added last. Add quart water 
and juice of a small lemon to syrup, strain and freeze. When partly 
frozen whip four whites firm, stir them in and beat up the ice till it 
looks like cream ; cover closely and pack with more ice and salt, and 
when done mix in gently the orange slices, without breaking them. 
Serve in ice-cups, glasses or saucers. Raspberry and Strawberry 
Ice can be made as above, using with the lemon juice, a little orange 
jiiice also in the strawberry. 

Peach Ice. — Make a syrup or not as liked, in proportion as 
given in directions and add one can or twelve fresh peaches well 
mashed. When frozen add beaten whites of three eggs and finish as 
directed. Or, peel and quarter the fresh peaches, add syrup, and put 
at once in mold, having first placed some of the slices of peaches 
in bottom of mold ; cover, bind and pack for five or six hours ; cream 
and sugar may be used instead of the syrup, making Peaches ana 
Cream Ice. whipping the cream is an addition. 
24 



370 ICES AND ICE-CREAM. 



Pine-apple Ice. — Bruise a half pound fresh pine-apple in a 
mortar, add juice of one lemon, half pint water, pint clarified syrup, 
strain and freeze, adding the meringue when half frozen if wished. 
For Tutti Frutti Ice, place a layer of Lemon or above ice in a 
Brick mold, making it quarter full, and place in ice and salt ; then 
mix an equal portion each candied apricots, cherries, strawberries 
or any fruits wished, and blanched almond or pistachio nuts, pre- 
pared as in Cabinet Ice-cream, in all about a pound of mixture, with 
a quart of Strawberry or Orange Ice, and add to mold till three- 
fourths full ; smooth and add of first ice. Lemon or Pine-apple, till 
full to overflowing. Bind and pack as directed for three or four 
hours. Preserved fruits may be used, prepared as in ice-cream 
directions, and a little preserved ginger or angelica root is a choice 
addition. Use other ices also, according to different tastes. 

Snow Ice. — Add quarter pound sugar to half pint cream, and 
flavor highly with vanilla or lemon ; if lemon juice is used, more 
sugar will be required. Stir in newly-fallen snow until thick as ice- 
cream, and any kind of fruit juice may be used instead of cream. 
In either case the snow must not be added until just before serving. 

Strawberry Ice. — Nice sound fruit should be obtained, stems 
removed, and the berries gently wiped perfectly clean and dry ; then 
put into a dish, and place pulverized sugar over them, stirring with 
a wooden spoon until fruit is slightly mashed. Rub pint pulp with 
gill and a half juice through wire sieve, add pint clarified syrup 
/\.J^:l/\ A,/^ y^ ^^^^ freeze. Pour into small glasses, and 
'^ "■' arrange in dish as illustrated, on a foun- 
dation of green leaves ; or mash two quarts 
^_ strawberries with two pounds sugar ; let 

strawberry Ice. " staud au hour or morc, squeeze in a crash 

strainer, pressing out all juice, add equal measure water ; and when 
half frozen, add the white of one egg beaten with tablespoon pulver- 
ized sugar. 

Colorings. — For Blue rub a piece of indigo with a little water 
and add by drops to the mixture to be colored until the desired 
shade is reached. For Brown use grated chocolate, or for a very 
light brown, Caramel, which is prepared for immediate use by put- 
ting cup granulated sugar in iron skillet or frying-pan set over fire, 
and stirring constantly until a dark brown color and as thick as 
molasses. When properly done a cup sugar will make five table- 
spoons coloring. When preparing for bottling, boil a longer time, 
then add a half pint water and boil again, until a little cooled in 
saucer is found thick as molasses or honey. If too thick, or if it 
candies, add a little more water and boil again. Bottle, and if kept 
corked it will never spoil. For Oreen use either the Parsley or 
Spinach Coloring, given on page 180. For Pink use strawberry, 
currant or cranberry juice or jelly. If a bright Red is desired, mis 



it^ 1^ ^ ^ Jdkil,A^ii'' 



lOES AND ICE-CREAM. ^^J 



one drachm each pulverized alum and cream tartar, four drachms 
powdered cochineal, two ounces loaf sugar and saltspoon soda; or 
same proportions in level tablespoons are two-thirds tablespoon pul- 
verized alum, half tablespoon cream tartar, two and a half of pow- 
dered cochineal, four of pounded loaf sugar and the saltspoon soda; 
boil ten minutes in half pint pure soft water and when cool bottle 
and cook for use. For Yellow, use the juice of a carrot or the 
grated peel of an orange or lemon, moistened with the juice or a lit- 
tle water, and squeezed through a cloth. When a deeper color is 
wanted boil a little American saffron with a little water till a bright 
yellow, strain and cool, and use enough to give desired shade; some 
use a mixture of an oimce turmeric with four of deodorized alcohol, 
shaking till dissolved and then straining and bottling. No objec- 
tion can be made to the use of any of the above, save perhaps to the 
blue, which is very seldom used, and only for Ornamental Icing. 
The others are all fruit or vegetable preparations, and their use adds 
greatly to the handsome appearance of ices and ice-creams, icing, 
jellies, cakes, creams and pudding and other sauces. To guard 
against getting in too much coloring, use by putting in a very little 
at first, mixing well, then add a very little more until desired 
shade is obtained. 

Gopher Orange Ice — Make a syrup of three pints water and 
one quart sugar; when cool add two gills lemon juice and three of 
orange juice ; freeze and when half frozen add white of one egg, beat- 
en well with tablespoon sugar. Thoroughly beat it with the ice, finish 
freezing and serve. Strawberries or slices of pineapples gently stir- 
red through just before serving (if added too long before, they freeze 
and are unpleasant to eat) make a delicious variety. Pineapple 
Ice may be made of canned pineapple using pint of juice, and gill 
lemon juice with above proportion of syrup, adding the pineapple 
cut in dice just before serving, if wished. With all ices it is always 
better to add a gill of lemon juice, as the acid assists in the freezing 
and also adds to the flavor. Any proportions of the recipe may be 
made; above makes about two dozen dishes. 

Chocolate Ice — Make syrup of quart w^ater and pint sugar cook- 
ing half an hour. Make a chocolate paste by pouring four or five 
tablespoons water over a scant half teaspoon pulverized cinnamon, 
letting stand half an hour, then straining over four heaping table- 
spoons grated chocolate and beating well together ; add to syrup, cook 
five minutes, strain and when cold add half teaspoon vanilla and 
juice of three lemons (about a gill) and freeze as above. Syrup 
should be reduced to about two-thirds of the quantity water and 
usgar used (making one quart in this recipe). This rule applies to 
all Ices ivitli Syrup, which is by far the better wa}'-, giving a firm, 
smooth, delicious ice. To the sjTup when cool can be added any 
fruit juice or flavoring used in any ice or ice-cream, always adding 
■ lemon juice and meringue as above. These ices are praised by all. 



372 ICING. 



ICnSTGh. 



Nothing adds more to the elegance of a well spread table^then 
a handsomely iced and ornamented cake, whicji v/ith a little care 
and painstaking can as well be prepared at home as ordered from 
the caterer, and at much less expense. For a plain quickly made 
icing for a loaf of cake of ordinary size take white of one egg and 
eleven heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar. If obtainable, use the 
confectioners' sugar known as "XXX." Be careful not to get in any 
of the yolk of the eggs, as then the icing will not beat up well, and be 
sure the bowl, spoon or spatula, and all utensils used are perfectly 
free from grease. Beat well, and do not attempt to make the icing 
thick and stiff by adding sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing de- 
pends upon good beating as well as quantity »^^^. -^^ JX 

of sugar. Beat whites of eggs to stiff froth, and ^^' -~^^^S^ 

add pulverised sugar gradually, beating all ^°'"^^" spatuia. 

the time. A wooden spatula is better than a spoon for beating in 
the sugar. There are various opinions about the length of time 
icing should be beaten, some giving half an hour, others a much 
shorter time. Some break the whites into a broad platter and at 
once begin adding sugar, and keep adding gradually, beating well 
all the while until all sugar is dissolved and the icing is perfectly 
smooth. Thirty minutes' beating ought to be sufficient. Lastly, 
add flavoring, rose, pine-apple or almond for white or delicate cake, 
and lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake. The same amount of 
material, prepared with the whites of eggs unbeaten^ will make one- 
third less icing than if the eggs are beaten to a stiflf" froth before 
adding the sugar; but those who prefer this method think the 
icing is enough smoother and softer to pay for the extra quantity 
required. There is a medium method much used by the best of 



TCING. 373 

housekeepers ; the eggs are beaten to a slight foam, sugar added 
gradually, or all at once, and when thoroughly incorporated, flavor 
and use. Sometimes the whites of eggs will not froth readily, when 
add a pinch of alum, sugar, salt or soda ; a teaspoon lemon juice or 
a little .citric acid whitens icing, and the white of one egg whipped 
separately and beaten in just before putting on the cake makes the 
icing smooth and glossy. A little corn-starch helps to thicken ic- 
ing. If the flavor is lemon juice, allow more sugar for the additional 
liquid. 

Have the icing ready when the cake is baked and be sure that 
it . is thoroughly beaten before removing cake from oven ; if pos- 
sible, have some one beating while cake is being removed. Invert 
a common tin milk-pan, placing it on a clean paper, so that if any 
icing falls ofl" it can be used again, then place the cake on the pan, 
trim off all unsightly excrescences with a clean, sharp knife and ap- 
ply icing, pouring it around the center of the cake and smoothing off 
as quickly as possible with a knife ; it should run over the cake, be- 
coming as smooth as glass, and adhere firmly to it. If the icing is 
a little stiff dip the knife in cold water. Dredging the cake well 
with flour when taken from the oven and wiping carefully before ic- 
ing will keep the icing from running ; when icing only the top of cake, 
place a rim of stiff white paper around it to keep the icing in place 
until it sets. If but one person is engaged in preparing cake and ic- 
ing, and must necessarily stop beating while getting the cake in 
readiness, it will be best to beat the icing a few minutes again be- 
fore placing on cake. As eggs vary in size, some common sense 
must be used in the quantity of sugar. Practice only will teach just 
how stiff icing ought to be. An excellent proportion is three-fourths 
teacup pulverized sugar to the white of one full-sized egg, but more 
sugar is sometimes required. In preparing for a large party, when 
it is inconvenient to ice each cake as it is taken from the oven, and 
a number have become cold, place in the oven to heat before icing. 
If wanted very nice, put the icing on in two coats, letting the first 
dry before putting on the second, when the icing left may be suffi- 
ciently thinned with water, if necessary, to work smoothly, or more 
icing may be prepared, taking care to have it just soft enough to run 
smoothly, and yet not run off cake — better to be a little too stiff 
than too thin. To apply the second coat, place the icing in a lump 
in center of cake, and let it run level of its own accord ; or if a lit- 



374 ICING. 

tie stiff, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite 
to edge of cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the 
edge of itself; if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake 
and shake it a little, which will cause all the rough parts to become 
smooth. To ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar to the 
icing, and beat it in well ; then with the knife place it on the sides of 
cake until fully covered ; and by holding the knife perpendicularly, 
with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the 
icing, draw it all around the side of the cake ; when it comes round 
to the starting point, suddenly give the knife a twist, and turn the 
back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, 
remove the edge from contact with the icing. If this is done neatly 
and quickly one will hardly be able to find where it is joined. The 
cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for the ornamental 
icing or piping. Ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange 
flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. It is 
nice when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the 
cake in slices. 



Almond /c^?^^.— Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting 
them in boiling water, taking off skins, and spreading upon a dry 
Dloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till well 
pulverized : mix carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters 
pint powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon vanilla or 
lemon, ice the cake and dry in a cool oven or in the open air when 
weather is pleasant. Or take two cups sugar, pour over a half cup 
boiling water, cook until ropy ; beat whites of two eggs, stir into 
sugar and beat until cold ; add flavoring extract (bitter almonds is 
best), and one and a half cups blanched and chopped sweet al- 
monds. 

Boiled Icing. — Beat white of one egg to a stiff froth ; boil one 
cup granulated sugar and one-half gill or four tablespoons water till 
it threads when dropped from spoon. Pour in a fine stream while 
boiling hot, into the beaten egg, stirring briskly all the time and con- 
tinue stirring the mixture in the "round and round" way, never stop- 
pin*' till icing is thick and cold. Flavor as liked. For Confectioner's 
Boiled Icing, take whites of six eggs and beat to a stiff froth with 
half pound sifted granulated sugar. Boil another half pound sugar 
with a pint water (adding piece of cream tartar size of a pea) until 
a drop taken on the finger (first dip. the finger in cold water) will 
»illl into a fine thread by touching with the thumb. Then pour this 



ICES. 375 

into the whites of eggs, stirring very swiftly to cook all alike, and 
lastly add six ounces sifted XXX sugar. Anotl.er method is to 
beat whites of four eggs with one and one-third pints powdered 
sugar, stir in a cup water and boil all together until thick and 
creamy, adding flavoring after taking from fire. For Boiled Icing 
Without Eggs, boil a cup granulated sugar four or five minutes with 
five tablespoons milk. , Stir on ice or in cool place until cold and 
creamy, and wait until cake is cold before icing. Economical and 
preferred by some to that with eggs. Any of the above recipes 
makes a nice Chocolate Icing with the addition of grated chocolate to 
taste. 

Cape May Icing. — To the beaten yolk and white of one egg, add 
cup powdered sugar, beating well together; melt in pan over tea- 
kettle two or three squares Baker's chocolate, according to strength 
of flavor liked, add this to above with teaspoon vanilla, pinch of 
powdered cinnamon, and when well mixed, stir in a tablespoon boil- 
ing milk. Spread at once. 

Chocolate Icing — For Chocolate Icing With Gelatine, soak a tea- 
spoon gelatine one or two hours in three tablespoons water. Pour 
on it one-fourth cup boiling water, and stir in one and two-thirds 
cups powdered sugar. Grate two squares chocolate and stir into 
this mixture. Use immediately. For Boiled Chocolate Icing, beat 
one and two-thirds cups pulverized sugar into unbeaten whites of 
two eggs. Grate two squares chocolate, and put' it and one-third 
cup sugar and four tablespoons boiling water in small frying pan. 
Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, and then stir this into 
beaten whites and sugar. Enough for two loaves or one layer cake. 
Or, for a much richer icing, boil two cups granulated sugar and 
half cup water together for five minutes and add small cup grated 
chocolate. When a drop hardens in cold water stir four whole eggs 
in rapidly, beating all the while. Cook five minutes, stirring con- 
stantly, and flavor with vanilla, if liked. Does not crack nor break, 
and for this reason is highly prized. To make Chocolate Caramel 
Icing, take one cup brown sugar, one square Baker's chocolate, 
grated, and one tablespoon water or milk; simmer gently twenty 
minutes and spread on cake while hot. Or boil half cup milk, cof- 
fee-cup sugar, butter size of an egg and two tablespoons grated 
chocolate twenty minutes or till thick. Flavor with vanilla, or 
some add a pinch best pulverized cinnamon. To ice small cakes 
with this, take them on a fork and dip into the icing deep enough 
to ice both top and sides. If to be put together in a pyramidal form, 
ice the bottom and sides, instead of top, because of the more uni- 
form surface. To keep the icing from becoming cold and hard while 
using, set in a pan of hot water or over steam until allareiced. The 
above caramel is nice in which to dip the balls made in French 
Candy. For Spiced Chocalate Icing, warm a half cake chocolate in 



376 ICES. 

the oven ten minutes; add a heaping cup of sugar, teaspoon cinna- 
mon, half teaspoon each pulverized cloves and ginger, two teaspoons 
vanilla, pour in a little water, stir all well together and melt to a 
smooth paste. 

Clear Icing. — Mix a cup nice gelatine jelly with a teaspoon 
lemon juice and whites of two eggs until smooth, and pour over the 
cake. If the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place for ^a few min- 
utes in a moderately warm oven. 

Confectioner'' s Icing. — Break whites of four eggs into a large 
shallow platter in a cool room — in summer set on ice — and wnip 
until they foam but do not whiten. Sift in a pound (one and one- 
third pints) powdered sugar, quite slowly, Ibeating all the time 
steadily from the bottom so as to bring up every drop of the 
egg at each sweep of the egg whip, and so continue until the mixture 
is as white and fine as snow, and can be cut with a knife as clean 
and smooth as if it were cake, when it is ready for use. Apply in two 
coats. Sufficient for one large or two small loaves of cake, and 
those who prefer a Hard Icing will find nothing better. 

French Icing. — Take white of one egg with twice its bulk in 
water, about four tablespoons, and beat as stiff as possible ; then add 
XXX sugar till as thick as plain icing, or so it will spread nicely. It 
will take about one pint sugar, or three-quarters of a pound. This 
is especially nice for layer cakes, and in building sprinkle over each 
layer any nut meats liked, English walnuts, hickory nuts or 
blanched almonds, chopped, and for top layer place on in halves. 
One large egg or two small eggs will ice three layers. Use also for 
top of large cakes, but it is not nice for sides. This is very deli- 
cious, can be put on in as thick a layer as wished, and is like the 
French Candy (uncooked), except more water is used; when mak- 
ing it one can use part for icing and thicken the rest for the candy. 

Gelatine Icing. — Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three table- 
spoons warm water, add a cup pulverized sugar and beat until 
smooth. Flavor to taste. Or soak the gelatine in a tablespoon 
cold water half an hour; dissolve in two tablepoons hot water; 
add one cup powdered sugar and stir until smooth. 

Glaze Icing. — Stir beaten white of one egg with a little water 
and set over boiling water until the mixture boils ; then put in a few 
drops cold water, stir in a cup powdered sugar, boil to a foam and 
use. Or stir into one pound powdered sugar, one tablespoon cold 
water; beat whites three eggs a little, not to a stiff froth, and add 
to the sugar and water ; put in a deep bowl, place in a vessel of 
boiling water and heat. It will become thin and clear, afterward 
begin to thicken. When quite thick take from fire and stir while it 
cools till thick enough to spread with a knife. This will ice several 
ordinary sized cakes. 



ICES. 377 

Lemon Icing. — Beat whites of two eggs and two cups sugar to- 
gether, and add juice and part of the grated rind of two lemons 
strained. Or make Confectioner's Icing and add the strained juice 
and zest of one lemon, with eight tablespoons more powdered sugar. 
Color, if desired, with a few drops Yellow Coloring. Orange Icing 
made same, adding also teaspoon lemon juice. 

Orange Icing. — Mix a half pound powdered sugar with one 
tablespoon eaeh orange juice and boiling water, and half the grated 
rind of an orange ; beat till fine and smooth, strain, and spread on 
the cake, while still warm, about an eighth of an inch thick, smooth- 
ing it carefully with a wet knife. This is especially nice for sponge 
cake. 

Quich Icing. — Put cup sugarinto abowl with a tablespoon lemon 
juice and unwhipped whites of two eggs, or add the BUgar gradually. 
Beat together until just smooth and pour over the cake ; if the cake 
s not hot enough to dry it, place in a moderately warm oven. 

Snoio Icing. — Put one pint white sugar, unbeaten whites of three 
eggs and a teaspoon rose or lemon extract into an earthen dish, stir 
well together and set in a saucepan boiling water ; stir constantly 
and cook eight or ten minutes, or until white and glistening. Put 
on cake while icing is warm, as it hardens quickly. 

Soft Icing. — Mix a half pound finely pulverized, sifted sugar, 
with a tablespoon boiling water, and the same of lemon or any fruit 
juice, and gpread at once on the cake while still warm from the 
oven, about an eighth of an inch thick. Especially nice for all 
kinds of sponge cake, and other light and dry cakes, Buch as snow 
cake, etc. 

Transparent Icing. — Boil a pound granulated sugar with a half 
pint water until thick as mucilage ; then rub with a wooden spoon 
against sides of pan until white and milky. Stir in one teaspoon 
vanilla extract and pour while hot over the top of the cake, com- 
pletely covering it. 

Tutti Frutti Icing. — Boil a pint granulated sugar with a half 
cup water until it "threads." Pour this into the well-frothed whites 
of two eggs and beat till cool ; Mix together a half pound blanched 
and chopped sweet almonds, and a quarter pound sultana or seed- 
less raisins, swelled in hot water, and the same of finely chopped 
citron, and stir into the icing. Very nice for sponge and fruit cake. 

Union Icing. — Cover cake with a coating of Cape May Icing or 
any chocolate icing ; let harden a very little, then spread with the 
French Icing. This is also known as the Duplex Icing. 



?7? JAMS AND JELLIES. 



JAMS AlSriD JELLIES. 




It is as important when making jams as wiieti canning fhnt 
only perfect fruit be used, as if fruit has passed tne ripe stage ar^-d 
begun to ferment in tlie slightest degree tbe jam will not keep well. 
The fruit should be carefully cleaned und thorougJdy bruised, as 
mashing it before cooking prevents it from becoming hard. 
Cook in a porcelain-lined or gnmite iron -ware preserving 
kettle. Never put fvuit or fruit juice in tin, either 
to let stand or to cook. Boil the fruit fifteen or 
twenty minutes and skim before adding the sugar, 
as the flavor is thus better preserved, Hsually al- 
lowing three-quarters of a pound sugar, granulated 
is best, to a pound of fruit — by measure a scant 
pint sugar to quart whole fruit, or pint when 
.resemng ett e. niashod ; aud then boil half an hour longer 
skimming if necessary. Have a plate at hand for the skimmings, 
whicli should be added to vinegar barrel, as directed in Economical 
Vinegar. Use same utensils in making jams as in Canning Fruit, and 
it is also convenient to have a plate upon which to put spoon, dipper, 
etc., when not in use. If loaf sugar is used it should be dried and 
broken into small pieces befo/e mixed with fruit. If left in large 
lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if crushed to powder 
it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. Do not 
remove lid from range, as this will oe likely to make the jam burn. 
To prevent scorching while cooking, jams require almost constant 
stirring, and every house-keeper should be provided with small 
paddle with handle at right angles with the blade (similar to an 
apple-butter "stirrer," only smaller), to be used in making jams and 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 379 



marmalades. Jams are usually made from the more juicy berries, 
such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc. ; marma- 
lades from the firmer fruits, such as pine-apples, peaches and apri- 
cots. Both require the closest attention, as the slightest degree of 
burning ruins the flavor. They must be boiled sufficiently, and 
have plenty of sugar to keep well. To tell when any jam or mar- 
malade is sufficiently cooked, take out some on a plate and let it 
cool. If no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and 
glistening, it is done thoroughly. Pour in small cans, jars or glasses, 
let cool, and either seal as canned fruit, or secure like jelly, by first 
pressing paper, cut to fit glasses, dipped in alcohol or brandy, down 
close on fruit, and then putting on the tin covers ; or if one has not 
covers, larger papers, brushed on the inside with white of egg, with 
the edges turned down over the outside of the glasses. Keep in a 
cool, dry, dark place. Examine every two or three weeks for the 
first two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fermentation 
the jam must be boiled over again. When jelly glasses or glass 
cans are used for either jams or jellies, as a precaution against 
breaking when the hot mixture is poured in, prepare the cans or 
glasses as directed in last method given on page 93 of Canning 
Fruits. It has recently been found that cotton is one of the best 
coverings for any preparation of fruit, as neither light, air nor mois- 
ture easily penetrates it. Make a covering of the cotton for the top 
of jelly and jam glasses and tie down over the tin covers or papers. 
Some housekeepers have excellent success in keeping fruit by pour- 
ing over tops of cans clarified butter or mutton tallow, a half inch 
thick, or covering to that depth with fine white sugar. This will apply 
equally as well to jellies. 



Apple Jam. — Peel, core and cut apples in thin slices and put in 
preserving kettle with three-quarters pound white sugar to every 
pound fruit ; add a few cloves, a small piece ginger and a thin rind 
of lemon (tied in piece of muslin), stir with a wooden spoon over 
quick fire half an hour, when it will be ready to can or put into 



glasses. 



Apricot J«m.— Pare as thinly as possible (by immersion is 
best) and halve three pounds sound, ripe apricots, and take out 
stones ; place in deep dish, and strew over half their weight of finely 
sifted sugar ; let stand overnight. Then put them with syrup that 



380 JAMS AND JELLIES. 



will have oozed from them in preserving-kettle, add a few kernels 
blanched and sliced, and boil very gently half an hour, stirring con- 
stantly. Put into glasses or cans and cover closely. Or the fruit 
may be simply stewed tender, and passed through a colander, add- 
ing sugar, pint for pint ; boil until clear, and put up as above. 

BlacJcherry Jam. — Measure or weigh and put fresh ripe berries 
into preserving-kettle, crush to a pulp with potato masher, and boil 
fifteen or twenty minutes, or until about half the juice has boiled 
away, skimming often ; add three-fourths pound sugar to each pound 
fruit and finish as directed. Currant and all Berry Jams made 
same way. 

' Carrot Jam. — Select young carrots, wash and scrape clean, cut 
in round pieces, put over fire with water to cover and simmer until 
perfectly soft ; then press through puree peive, weigh, and for every 
pound allow pound sugar, grated rind of a lemon, strained juice of 
two, and six chopped bitter almonds ; put pulp over the fire with 
sugar and boil five minutes, then add other ingredients and as soon 
as these are well mixed put up in self-sealing cans. This is an imi- 
tation of Apricot Preserves, for which it is a very good substitute, 
but must be put up in thoroughly tight cans, according to directions 
for Canning Fruits, or it will not keep. 

Cherry Jam. — Stem and wash cherries and boil till soft in very 
little water ; put through colander to remove stones, then return to 
fire, sweeten to taste, boil thick as other jams and put up same. 
To make a very nice jam, take six pounds cherries weighed before 
stoning, stone and boil in their juice until nearly dry ; then add four 
pounds sugar and pint currant juice and boil all together until it 
jellies, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour ; skim 
jam well, keep it well stirred, and a few minutes before done, crack 
some of the stones and add the kernels ; these impart a very deli- 
cious flavor. 

Currant Jam. — Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the 
hands, put in preserving-kettle and boil fifteen or twenty minutes, 
stirring often, and skimming off all scum ; then add sugar in pro- 
portions given and finish and put up as directed in preface. 
The addition of one pound raisins to each gallon currant jam 
converts this into very fine French Jam. 

Damson Jam. — Stone the damsons, weigh, and to every pound 
allow three-fourths pound sugar. Put fruit and sugar over the fire, 
keep stirring gently until sugar is dissolved, and carefully remove 
scum. Boil about an hour from the time it commences to simmer 
all over alike ; it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable 
to burn and stick to the pan. When the jam looks firm, and the 
juice appears like jelly, it is done. 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 381 



Gooseberry Jam. — Stew nice ripe berries in a little water, press 
through a coarse sieve, return to the kettle and add three-fourths 
pound sugar to each pound pulped gooseberry ; boil three-quarters 
of an hour, stirring constantly ; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as 
directed in preface. Some use an equal weight of fruit and sugar. 
If one prefers to keep the berries whole, put the sugar into kettle 
and add water enough to melt it ; drop the fruit into the hot syrup 
and cook until the syrup begins to thicken around the berries. Do 
not stir but shake the kettle gently occasionally to keep the fruit 
from burning, and cook until a little jellies when cooled in a saucer. 
Put up as previously directed. Blackherry Jamis made same way. 
To make Gooseberry Jam with Currant Juice select the rough red 
gooseberries, if possible, stem and weigh them and allow a half pint 
currant juice and five pounds sugar to six pounds fruit; put goose- 
berries and currant juice over the fire and heat until fruit begins to 
break, then add the sugar and keep simmering until the mixture be- 
comes firm or jellies. Skim carefully, and keep stirring that it may 
not burn. 

Grape Jam. — Stem ripe grapes and slip off skins ; put pulp in 
kettle with cup water and boil until seeds separate ; strain, allow 
one pound sugar to one pint pulp, put all together in kettle with 
half the skins, boil until skins are tender, strain and put in glasses. 
Or simply stew the grapes in a little water, and press through a col- 
ander or coarse sieve, add sugar in proportion of three-quarters 
pound to a pound fruit, and finish as directed. Plum Jam made 
same way, adding a little water to plums to assist in straining. 

Green-gage Jam. — To every pound fruit, weighed before ston- 
ing, allow three-fourths pound sugar. Halve the green-gages, take 
out stones, and put fruit in preserving kettle ; bring to a boil, then 
add sugar, and keep stirring over a gentle fire till melted ; remove 
scum as it rises, and just before jam is done add half the blanched 
kernels and boil rapidly five minutes. 

Peach Jam. — Peel the peaches thinly with a silver knife, or if 
not too ripe by immersing in hot water, remove stones and weigh, 
allowing one-third their weight of sugar. Put in preserving kettle 
with sugar strewn in, set over fire, bring gradually to a boil and boil 
gently and steadily two hours, skimming as often as scum rises and 
stirring occasionally — constantl}' toward the last to prevent burning. 
Very ripe peachea, or the sound portion of those partly decayed may 
be used for jam. Some prefer rather more sugar, and stew the 
peaches until soft, then put them through a sieve or colander before 
adding sugar. 

Pie-plant Jain. — Cut in pieces about one inch in length; to 
pound pie-plant, add a pound sugar : cut it up in the afternoon be- 
fore it is to be cooked; scatter the sugar over it and let stand 



382 JAMS AND JELLIES. 



overnight; in the morning drain off the syrup and boil till it thick- 
ens; thenaddthe pie-plantand boil fifteen minutes, or till it is done. 
Or to every pound pie-plant allow a pound sugar and rind and juice 
of half a lemon ; wipe pie-plant dry, cut in small pieces and put 
Over fire with the sugar ; mince the lemon peel very nne ; add it and 
the juice to the other ingredients and keep well stirred; if very 
young, boil one hour, if old two hours. It will keep good for years. 
Omit tiie lemon and it is called Pie-plant Butter. For Pie-plant 
and Orange Jam, peel six oranges ; remove as much white pith as 
possible, divide them, and take out seeds ; slice the pulp in preserving 
kettle, add rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips, and the loaf 
sugar, which should be broken small. Peel one quart pie-plant, cut 
in thin pieces, add to the oranges, and stir all together over gentle 
fire until j am is done. Remove all scum as it rises, put the jam into 
pots, and, when cold, cover. Should pie-plant be very old, stew it 
alone for quarter of an hour before other ingredients are added 

Pine-apvle Jam. — To one pound grated pine-apple add three- 
fourths pound sugar and boil ten minutes. 

Plum Jam. — Weigh, then halve and stone the plums, spread on 
large dishes, sprinkle sugar over in the proportion of three-fourths 
pound to pound fruit, and let stand one day. Then simmer gently 
half an hour and boil rapidly fifteen minutes. Remove scum as fast 
as it raises and stir constantly. Maybe flavored nicely by cracking 
a few stones and adding kernels just before jam is done. The sweet 
varieties of plums do not require so much sugar. 

Qimice Jam. — Boil fruit in as little water as possible until soft 
enough to break easily ; pour off all water and rub with spoon until 
entirely smooth. To each pound quince add ten ounces brown 
sugar, and boil twenty minutes, stirring often. A more elaborate 
recipe requires seven pounds quinces, two of sour oranges and nine 
of sugar ; cut quinces into dice and boil with them in one quart water, 
one-third or less of the orange rind ; when quinces are tender add 
oranges and sugar and boil fifteen minutes. If sour oranges cannot 
be obtained use lemons. If quinces are not acid use less sugar. 
Very excellent. 

Paspl)erry Jam. — Use small or crushed berries, carefully re- 
jecting all decayed ones; prepare as directed, and allow two- 
thirds their weight in sugar ; crush the berries in preserving kettle 
with potato-masher or wooden spoon, and beat well and boil fifteen! 
or twenty minutes, add sugar and finish as in general directions. 
Or add currants in proportion of one-third currants to two-thirds 
raspberries ; or use only the juice of currants, half pint to each quart 
mashed raspberries, and as a substitute two or three tablespoons 
currant jelly may be well beaten, thinned with a little water and 
added as the juice. Another method of making is to crush the ber- 
ries and sugar together, and let stand two or three hours before cook- 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 



ing, then proceed as above. Make Strawherry Jam same way, al- 
lowing sugar in proportion of three-fourths the weight of the fruit. 



Fruit Jellies. 



Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle existing in fruits, which 
possesses the property of gelantinizing when boiled and cooled, and 
is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, 
although the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an 
erroneous idea on the subject. When made of gelatine, jellies have 
no nutrition, and are simply used to carry a palatable flavor, but the 
fruit jellies are wholesome as well as palatable. Always make in a 
porcelain or granite iron-ware kettle. Never use tin utensils either 
in preparing the juice or making the jelly. Use the best refined or 
granulated sugar, and do not have the fruit, especially currants and 
grapes, overripe. To make clear, handsome jelly the fruit must be 
quite fresh and all blemishes removed. Currants and berries must 
be made up as soon as picked, and should never be gathered imme- 
diately after a rain, as they are greatly impoverished by the moisture 
absorbed. Never on any account let them stand overnight. Nearly 
all fruit jellies may be made in same way, whether currant, plum, 
crab-apple, gooseberry, quince, apple, peach or grape, using less su- 
gar for the sweeter fruits. The first five fruits mentioned jelly very 
easily and quickly, and the others will give no trouble if directions 
are faithfully followed. Cherries will not jelly alone, and must be 
mixed with one-fourth their quantity of currants, or gelatine may be 

used with them, an ounce to a quartof 
juice. All fruit forms into jelly more readi- 
ly if not quite ripe. Have the flannels and 
cloths used for straining perfectly clean 
and white, and the strainer stand 
illustrated will be found a great conven- 
ience. The cut explains itself, and the 
stand can be made by any one at all fa- 
miliar with the use of tools. 

To extract the juice, place fruit in 
kettle with just enough water to keep 
from burning, or bruise with potato masher until enough 
juice starts for the same purpose, stir often, and let remain 




Btralaer Stand. 



FRUIT JELLIES. 



over fire until thoroughly scalded; or a better but rather slow- 
er method is to place it in a stone jar set in kettle of tepid 
water, boil until fruit is well softened, stirring frequently, and 
then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong coarse flan- 
nel, crash or cotton bag, wrung out of hot water, after which let it 
drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, emptying the bag 
and rinsing it off each time it is used, A three-cornered bag is best 
and there is not so much need oppressing a bag of this shape, the 
weight of the fruit in the large part causing the juice to flow freely 
at the point. Press occasionally at the top and sides if necessary, 
but the jelly will be clearer if the juice is allowed to drain through 
without squeezing. The small salt bags do nicely for straining a 
small quantity and can be kept for this purpose. If jelly is wanted 
very nice, strain the juice again throi-gh a clean cloth, then return it 
to the clean preserving kettle. The larger fruits, such as apples and 
quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed if at all defective, 
water added to just cover them, boiled gently until tender, turned 
into bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, or overnight. 
Make not over two or three pints of jelly at a time as larger quanti- 
ties require longer boiling. As a general rule allow equal measures 
juice and sugar. Some boil juice rapidly ten minutes from the first 
moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer ; 
but a better way, which insures a clearer jelly, is to spread the sugar 
in a large dripping-pan, set in oven and stir often to prevent burn- 
ing ; boil the juice twenty minutes, skimming carefully, add hot 
sugar, let boil five minutes and pour into the prepared jelly-glasses 
immediately, as a thin skin forms over the surface when jelly cools, 
which should not be broken as it keeps out the air, and if formed 
upon the top of glasses of jelly acts as a preservative. Do not put 
on paper dipped in alcohol or brandy till jelly is cold, as the skin 
might thus be broken. This applies to jams when put up in glasses 
or stone jars. It is always best to test jelly before pouring into 
glasses, as some fruit juices require longer boiling than others to re- 
duce to jelly. The simplest test is to take a few drops on a spoon 
and by holding it in a cool place and turning from side to side one 
can easily tell when it jellies, as it will jelly on the spoon and not run ; 
or drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immediately 
falls to the bottom it is done ; or if when dropped in a saucer and 
fset on ice or in a cool place it does not spread, but remains rounded^ it 



FRUIT JELLIES. 385 



is finished. Be careful not to have so hot a fire when boiling as to 
scorch and so ruin the jelly, and too long cooking after the sugar is 
added will make it dark and strong. Some strain through the bag 
into glasses, but this involves waste, and if skimming is carefully- 
done is not necessary. A little butter or lard, rubbed with a cloth 
on outside of glasses or cans, will enable one to pour in the boiling 
fruit or liquid, the first spoon or two slowly, without breaking the 
glass. If jelly is not very firm, let it stand in the sun covered with bits 
of window glass or pieces of mosquito netting, for a few days. Never 
attempt to make jelly in damp or cloudy weather if firmness and 
clearness are desired. When ready to put away, cover as directed for 
jams. 

If pulp is wanted for jam do not squeeze the fruit too hard, and 
it can be made up very nicely. The jelly should be placed in a dry, 
dark, cool place and examined toward the end of summer, when if 
there are any signs of fermentation, reboil. Jelly needs more at- 
tention in damp rainy seasons than in others. 

When jelly is wanted in its greatest perfection do not squeeze 
through strainer at first, simply use what will drain through of itself. 
This will make a beautifully clear jelly. The remainder of the juice 
may be squeezed through and jelly made of it as usual, but it will 
not be so nice as that made from the first drippings. 

Jelly designed for frequent use, as for making jelly cake, sand- 
wiches, serving with meats, etc., may be put up in stone jars,for which 
the half gallon is a nice size, but must be carefully covered again 
each time after opening. Writing paper cut to fit the tops and dip- 
ped in alcohol or brandy is best for the first covering for jars as 
well as glasses, then cover as directed in jams. 



Apple Jelly. — Quarter and core but do not pare nice tart red- 
cheeked apples, and boil until soft; then strain with very little 
pressing and after boiling up and skimming thoroughly add three- 
fourths the quantity of sugar and boil until it jellies nicely. It will 
be delicious and of a beautiful pink color. Too ripe apples will make 
it dark. Some do not add sugar until about five minutes before jelly 
is done, and if apples are perfectly sound many cook the cores. 
Green apples are often used for jelly, and a very good article maybe 
made by boiling the parnigs of apples with the sound cores in as 
little water as possible until soft, and finish as above. Three-quarters 
of a pint sugar to a pint juice is the rule of some housekeepers, who 
25 



S86 FRUIT JELLIES. 



also clear the jelly with whites of eggs. But if juice is properly- 
strained and skimmed this should not be necessary. A German 
method of making is to let the apples boil untouched until they 
.break, then set away in the kettle, if it can be spared, otherwise in 
an earthen bowl, for three days ; then drain without pressing, add a 
pound sugar to every pint juice, and boil three-quarters of an hour. 
Fill glasses, and cover. Some economical housekeepers pare and 
core the apples and do not strain so closely but that they may be 
used for sauce or pies. If the flavor of lemon is liked boil half the 
peel of one Avith every two dozen apples, but lemon juice is thought 
by some to render the jelly muddy and thick ; when used strain it in 
just before jelly is done. If the jelly is wanted light colored peel 
the apples, Apple jelly, ornamented when put into the molds with 
preserved greengages or other preserved fruit, turns out very prettily 
for dessert. Apple jelly is also made very delicious by the addition 
of orange and lemon iuice, equal parts of both, in any proportion 
liked, half and half, or one-fourth orange and lemon to three-fourths 
apple juice. 

Apricot Jelly. — Take out stones from two quarts apricots, cut 
in f^mall pieces, mash thoroughly and put in preserving-kettle with 
a clove, and juice of half lemon; cover with water, set on moder- 
{ite fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Strain, and when juice is 
all squeezed out, put it in kettle with three-quarters pint sugar to 
every pint juice ; boil till it jellies. 

Cherry Jelly. — Stone and stem a quantity of best cherries, and 
to every four pounds add one pound red currants ; put into preserv- 
ing-kettle, place over the fire and reduce all to a mash, stirring all 
the while with the wooden spatula. Strain by pressing through a 
hair sieve, and filtering through a jelly bag, To each pint fruit add 
three quarters pint or a pint sugar as liked. Place again on the fire 
and boil to a jelly, removing the scum, and fill glasses or jars. A 
very nice jelly, and excellent for flavoring summer drinks. 

Currant Jelly. — W&igh the fruit and to each pound allow half 
the weight of granulated or pure loaf sugar. Put a few currants in 
porcelain-lined kettle, and press with potato-masher, or anything 
convenient, in order to secure sufficient liquid to prevent burning; 
then add the remainder of fruit, and boil freely twenty minutes, 
stirring occasionally, to prevent burning. Take out and strain care- 
fully through the three-cornered stainer above mentioned, putting 
the liquid into either earthen or wooden vessels. When strained re- 
turn liquid to kettle, without trouble of measuring, and let it boil 
thoroughly for a moment or so, skim well and add tl'ie sugar, which 
has been heated as directed in preface. The moment the sugar 
is entirely dissolved, the jelly should be done, and must be im- 



FRUIT JELLIES. 387 



mediately dished, or placed in glasses. It will jelly upon the side 
of the cup as it is taken up, leaving no doubt as to the result. 
Blackberry and Straiuberry Jelly, are made by either of above meth- 
ods, and a very finely flavored jelly is obtained by mixing red rasp- 
berry and currant juice, two parts former to one of latter. For a 
clearer jelly, one can extract currant juice without boiling fruit, 
by crushing fruit with the hands in large earthen bowl, about a quart 
at once. Pour the currants into the strainer, and when all crushed 
and draining, stir them about with the hand and squeeze the thin 
juice from them ; then take about a pint and a half of the crushed 
fruit at a time in a strong towel and squeeze; the thick juice that 
comes at the very last it is well to put aside for currant shrub ; the 
first can be used with that already strained for the jelly. A jelly of 
a prettier color is obtained by mixing the white and red currants, 
half and half. Some take the trouble to make jelly from the white 
and red currants separately, then harden it in successive layers in 
glasses. For the process see directions given for making Ribbon Jelly. 
Another pretty arrangement is to melt jelly before serving, add lit- 
tle dissolved gelatine, put in mold and set in ice-box or cool place 
to harden. Some housekeepers report excellent success in making 
Uncooked Currant Jelly. To one pint currant juice from raw fruit, 
add a pint granulated sugar; stir the juice "very slowly into the sugar 
until sugar is dissolved, then let stand twenty-four hours and itwill 
be stiff jelly. Turn into glasses, cover with a thin covering and set 
in the sun two or three days, then cover as directed and put away. 
Half a bushel currants makes twenty-two and one-half pint glasses 
of jelly 

Gooseberry Jelly.— To every quart green gooseberries add a pint 
water and boil until bursting and almost a jam. Then strain and 
proceed as in general directions, adding a pound sugar to each pint 
juice. Requires longer boiling than most jellies. Juice may be ob- 
tained without boiling the fruit as in Currant Jelly, if preferred, and 
some let berries stand twenty-four hours after cooking before strain- 
ing, or hang in jelly bag all night. 

Grape Jelly. — Cook grapes whole or first rub through a sieve ; to 
each pint juice, measured after straining, use pound sugar and cook 
as directed. Half-ripened grapes are best. Wild Grape Jelly made same. 

Muscadine Jelhj. — Squeeze skins from muscadines, saving all 
the pulp and juice, and add to each quart a dozen or twenty of the 
skins, or enough to give a rich crimson color; too many will make 
the jelly dark, and if none are used it will have a muddy color. If 
there is not sufficient juice to prevent scorching add a little water, 
set on brisk fire and cook twenty to thirty minutes ; take off and 
strain through flannel jelly-bag, once only ; add pint sugar to each 
quart juice, return to fire and boil hard twenty minutes without 
stirring. Test, boiling until it will jelly, and put away in glasses. 



388 FRUIT JELLIES. 



^ Pine-apple Jelly. — Pare and grate fruit and to each pound fruit 
take pound sugar, stir till sugar is dissolved and cook and test as 
above. Strain into glasses and cover as directed. This is delicious 
molded and served as a Dessert Jelly, surrounded with sweetened 
whipped cream if liked. 

Uasjpherry Jelly. — Cook red raspberries until the juice separ- 
ates, then strain and proceed as directed in preface, adding three- 
fourths as much sugar as juice. Or the juice may be obtained by 
mashing and straining, without cooking. Care must be exercised 
in selecting the berries, as if at all over-ripe the juice may not jelly 
readily. Success is sure, however, if one part currant juice is added 
to two parts raspberry, and some use half and half. 

/Strawberry Jelly. — Mash the berries and strain through jelly- 
bag without squeezing. Put juice on stove and follow general di- 
rections, adding sugar pint for pint. The berries must be firm and 
freshly gathered, as the slightest tendency to fermentation will pre- 
vent the juice becoming jelly. 

Tomato Jelly. — Cut a peck yellow tomatoes in pieces, boil until 
soft, and strain ; put the juice on, after measuring, with a sliced lemon 
added and boil half an hour ; add sugar pint for pint, let dissolve 
and come to boiling point, when it should be jelly. Test until prop- 
erly done, then strain into glasses. 

Fruit Flavors. — These are very easily j)repared, and very con- 
venient for flavoring and coloring ices and ice-creams, dessert jel- 
lies, sherbets, drinks for the sick, creams, pudding sauces, etc., when 
fruit is out of season. Directions for preparing the juices or pulps 
of the different fruits have already been given in Ices and Ice-creams, 
and the process of making is the same for all : Mix the given quan- 
tities prepared fruit juice or pulp and sugar together, stirring until 
sugar is dissolved and a clear syrup results ; then pour into glass 
fruit jars of pint or quart size, same as used for canning, cover closely 
with their lids, stand in wash-boiler and finish as directed in third 
recipe for Canned Peaches, on page 153, boiling half an hour after 
boiling point is reached. Put cans away as directed in Canning 
Fruit. If properly prepared these flavors will keep two or three 
years and when used will have all the flavor of the fresh fruit juices. 
For Orange Flavor to each pint prepared orange juice add juice of 
one lemon and three cups granulated sugar. Make Strawberry 
Flavor same way using prepared strawberry juice and juice of only 
half a lemon. For Raspberry Flavor take a pint prepared rasp- 
berry juice, juice of half a lemon, or half gill currantjuice, three and a 
half cups sugar. For Cherry., Currant^ Grape, Plum and Apple 
Flavors use a pint prepared juice and three cups sugar. For Peachy 
Apricot., and Nectarine Flavors allow three cups sugar to each pint 
prepared pulp. ^ 



DESSERT JELLIES. 389 



Dessert Jellies. 



Very handsome jellies for dessert are made with gelatine formed 
in fancy molds, and when fruit is added exceedingly elegant and or* 
namental dishes result. But there are a few points connected with 
the use of gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too strongly 
impressed upon housekeepers and cooks . It should always be soaked 
in cold water till thoroughly saturated or so soft that it will tear 
with the fingers. In some cases it should be soaked for not less 
than five or six hours. The liquid containing gelatine should never 
be boiled, except in cases when it cannot be avoided, such as in 
clearing a jelly with white of egg, when it is necessary to raise the 
temperature to boiling point to coagulate the albumen ; but two 
minutes' boiling is quite sufficient for that purpose. Use as little 
gelatine as possible ; that is, never use more than will suffice to make 
a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. 
The prejudice common against gelatine which existed in former 
years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its qual- 
ities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly, hard, tough, 
and unpalatable, which compared very unfavorably with the deli- 
cate jellies made from calves' feet, the delicacy of which 
arose from the simple fact that the gelatine derived from 
calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jel- 
lies too strong. Persons accustomed to use gelatine will know that 
its "setting" power is very much affected by the temperature. In 
hot weather a little more gelatine than ordinary should be added. If 
jelly is not perfectly clear after straining, beat up whites of eggs and 
add, bring to a boil and skim, then strain again. Do not use lemon 
extract for flavoring jellies made with gelatine, as it imparts a milky 
appearance, and as in making these jellies ornament is the chief aim, 
it is desirable to have them as clear and transparent as possible. To 
mold, rinse the mold in cold water, and then fill. Jelly is some- 
times formed in a mold with a cylindrical tube in the center, and 
when turned out the space in center is filled with whipped cream. If 
wanted still more ornamental dot the whipped cream with straw- 
berries, or any kind of preserved fruits, such as cherries, grapes, slices 
of peaches, etc. Any jelly left over, whether fruit or gelatine, may 
be reheated in a custard kettle and molded again. If of two colors, 
mold as directed for Ribbon Jelly, or in any way fancied. Blanc- 



390 DESSERT JELLIES. 



manges may also be remolded in same way, and by placing with the 
jelly in mold, half and half, makes a pretty dish. To serve any des- 
sert jelly wrap a cloth wrung out of water around the mold and turn 
out. 




Apple Jelly. — Core and cut two dozen apples into quarters , 
boil with rind of a lemon until tender; drain off 
juice, strain it through jelly-bag, and to each pint add a 
half pint sugar and a half ounce gelatine, previously 
soaked and simmered gently in half pint water ; boil all 
together slowly fifteen minutes and strain into molds. 
Turn out, when cold, and serve surrounded with whipped 
cream or custard. 

Chocolate Jelly. — Two pints cream, three ounces sugar, four 
ounces chocolate, grated ; boil all together, stirring well until fine 
and frothy, add three-fourths ounces gelatine, stir until thoroughly 
dissolved, turn into mold and let cool on ice. 

Cide?" Jelly. — One package of gelatine, grated rind of one lemon 
and juice of three ; add one pint cold water, and let stand one hour ; 
then add two and one-half pounds loaf sugar, three pints boiling 
water, and one pint cider, put into molds and set in a cool place. 

Corn-Starch Jelly. — Wet five tablespoons corn-starch, one cup 
sugar, and pinch of salt with cold water, and add one teaspoon 
lemon or vanilla extract for flavoring; stir the mixture into one 
quart boiling water and boil five minutes, stirring all the while; 
pour into cups previously dipped into cold water. This quantity 
will fill six or seven cups. If wished richer, milk may be used in- 
stead of water. Good for invalids 

Fruit Jelly. — Soak a box of gelatine one hour in pint cold water 
when well soaked pour on a pint boiling water; then put in a quart 
of any kind of fruit, strawberries, raspberries or cherries are nice ; 
add half cup sugar and one spoonful lemon juice; pour into a mold, 
and wben cold eat with cream and sugar or whipped cream. It is 
delicious. 

Lemon Jelly. — Soak half a box gelatine one hour in cold water; 

. , add nearly a pint boiling water, one and a 

^a/*aa.aAAavA half cups sugar, a little salt, and the grated 

rind and juice of three lemons through a 

flannel jelly bag; set on the stove till it 

Jelly in Glass. boils, thcn straiu it into glassses, and when 

cold serve with whipped cream heaped on top. For Lemon 




DESSERT JELLIES. 391 



Snow Jelly dissolve a box gelatine in nearly a quart boiling water, 
add the juice of five lemons and enough sugar to sweeten to taste; 
strain and set aside until nearly cool. Beat whites of five eggs and 
whip into the jelly ; turn into a mold and let stand until cool. After 
it becomes solid, turn out and decorate with pieces of red jelly. 

Orange Jelly. — Two quarts water, four ounces gelatine, nine 
oranges and three lemons, a pound sugar, whites of three eggs ; soak 
gelatine in pint of water, boil the three pints water and sugar to- 
gether, skim well, add dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, 
and beaten whites ; let come to a boil, skim carefully, boil until it 
jellies, and pour into mold. The eggs may be omitted, when the 
jelly must be strained. The grated rind of one orange put in with 
the juice gives a fine flavor, or some of the sugar may be rubbed on 
the rinds. A very attractive way of serving is to keep the orange 
rinds whole by removing juice and pulp with the handle of a tea- 
Ml^i§\^LwA spoon from a small opening in one end, drain 

ff^^^^wA ^^^ wipe them dry. Use the juice for the 

^SHr^H^wk J^^^y? iJ'J^'^s as above without the eggs, and 

^'^y^^^tMiPv carefully strained ; then color one-half of it 

f^^Wp'SP^^^^^ pink with a few drops cochineal coloring, 

^^^p^^^M^^^^ let stand until nearly cold, and fill the rinds 

^4^^^^^^^^^^ with alternate stripes of the pink and 

^^]i5^^^^^ white jellies. When perfectly cold cut in- 

'^iT^^WjJ^i^iipP' to quarters and pile tastefully on a dish 

Oranges Filled withjeiiy. wlth tufts of grccu leavcs intcrspcrsed. Calf's 
Foot, or any Variety of jelly, or different blanc-manges, may be used 
at choice to fill the rinds ; the colors, however, should contrast as 
much as possible. For Mock Oranges^ prepare as above ( without 
eggs) but do not color the jelly with which they are to be filled, and 
when cold carefully cut in halves. Should be prepared the day be- 
fore wanted. Serve as real fruit piled in glass dish with green leaves 
around. Another elegant dish is made by preserving the sections 
of two oranges whole, taking care not to break the thin inner skin 
surrounding them. Pour half the jelly in mold and let harden on 
ice, keeping remainder hot by standing in hot water. Then arrange 
the prepared sections of orange in a circle on jelly in mold, around the 
edge, then add just enough jelly to cover the orange sections, let it 
harden, put in remainder and set away to cool. If all of last half 
of jelly is poured over the sections they will rise to the top. When 
making in a hurry, instead of molding sections in jelly keep to gar- 
nish the dish. 

Peach Jelly. — Add to the juice from a can of peaches a cup 
granulated sugar and boil until clear, skimming carefully ; when no 
more scum rises, put in the peaches and let boil up once ; then care- 
fully take them out v/ithout breaking, and pour the hot syrup over 
a box gelatine that has soaked an hour in a cup cold water; add 



392 DESSERT JELLIES. 



juice of a lemon, cup each granulated sugar and boiling water and put 
all over the fire, stirring constantly until the gelatine is entirely dis- 
solved ; strain while hot ; put the peaches in a mold, pour the jelly 
over, and set in a cold place for several hours before wanted. 

Pie-plant Jelly. — Peel enough pie-plant to fill a quart mold, cut 
in half-inch lengths, and stew gently to a pulp with an equal weight 
of sugar ; dissolve half an ounce gelatine in a gill of water over the 
fire ; add it to the pie-plant when tender, and let it boil up ; then 
pour in a mold wet with cold water, and let cool. Serve with whipped 
cream or powdered sugar, 

Pig^s Foot Jelly. — Take the liquor in which fresh pig's feet 
have been boiled, strain through a flannel bag and set away to cool 
until next day ; then remove all grease from the top, return to the 
fire and add to each quart of jelly one-half pound white sugar, juice 
of two lemons or two dessertspoons lemon extract, a little cinna- 
mon bark and the whites of two eggs (the latter to clarify it) ; boil 
all together ten or fifteen minutes and strain again into glasses, bowls, 
cups or molds of any shape. Let cool, after which cover closely and 
set in a cool place ; it will keep a long time, is delicious eaten with 
cake, either Avith or without cream, according to taste, and is very 
strengthening and refreshing for invalids. 

Pine-apple Jelly. — Take a small can pine-apple, a cup and a 
half sugar, package of gelatine, one lemon, white of an egg, and a 
quart water. Soak the gelatine in half a pint cold water for two 
hours and a half. Cut pine-apple into small pieces and put it with 
juice and remainder of water into a saucepan to simmer for ten 
minutes ; beat white of egg well, and put it into a stewpan with the 
soaked gelatine, the sugar, and juice of lemon. At the end of ten 
minutes strain the pine-apple mixture into the stewpan. Heat »lowly 
to boiling point, then set back where it will keep hot for twenty 
minutes without boiling. Strain and put away in molds to harden. 
It will take five or six hours for the liquid to become perfectly set. 

Rilibon Jelly. — Color half the desired quantity of lemon or any 
light jelly with a few drops of cochineal coloring ; pour in wet mold 
a little of the light jelly, and when set a layer of equal thickness of 
the red, and so alternate until mold is full, waiting until each layer 
has hardened before adding another, and keeping the jelly warm in 
hot water until all is used. 

Tapioca Jelly. — One cup tapioca, three cups cold water, juice 
of one lemon and a pinch of the grated peel ; sweeten to taste ; soak 
the tapioca in water four hours ; set in a saucepan boil- 
ing water ; pour more lukewarm water over the tapioca, 
if it has absorbed too much of the liquid, and heat, stir- 
ring frequently. If too thick after it begins to clear, 
put in very little boiling water. When quite clear, put in the sugar 




DESSERT JELLIES. 393 



and lemon. Pour into molds. Eat cold with sweetened cream 
flavored to taste. For a nice jelly with fruit juice put a quarter of a 
pound tapioca over a gentle fire in sufficient water to reach two inches 
above it ; use custard kettle in order that it may cook very slowly 
without danger of burning ; it must be stirred thoroughly about every 
five minutes if an ordinary saucepan is used ; if the water cooks 
away add half a cup cold water at a time, using onl}^ sufficient to keep 
tapioca moist enough to prevent burning ; when only very small 
white particles are visible in the center of the grains of tapioca, in- 
stead of adding more water stir in a pint of any fruit juice, or the 
syrup from canned or preserved fruit, and let it be slowly absorbed 
by the tapioca. Unless the fruit juice is quite sweet enough, sugar 
may be added, to make the tapioca palatable ; when it has absorbed 
the fruit, turn it out into a plain mold or bowl, and let stand until 
perfectly cold before using. Milk and powdered sugar may be served 
with it ; or it may be iced and -erved alone. 

Whipped Jelly. — This is a very pretty dessert dish and easily 
prepafTed. When any gelatine jelly is set a little, put in bowl and 
whip with egg-whisk until full of air-bubbles. Fill the mold, and put 
on ice. The light frothy appearance is very pleasing, and the ad- 
dition of preserved fruits, well stirred in, about two cups to a quart 
jelly, forms a handsome dish. 

Jelly with Fruit. — Fresh fruits are often molded With gelatine 
jellies for dessert and present a very handsome appearance, the 
fruit being arranged around sides of mold, or placed in center, or in 
any manner fancied. The cut given shows I0 ^^^^ ^^^^ 

jelly molded with cherries. Have ready Js|ffl|^SHa-^ 
a pint and half jelly which must be very ^MMljIfiMfll'^^ ^ 
clear and very sweet, the raw fruit requir- ^^^^f'^^^^'s? ......Z^^!"^'' 

ing additional sugar. Select nice, per- jeuy Molded with cherries, 

feet fruit and pick off stalks. Begin by putting a little jelly at bot- 
tom of mold, placed in pan of ice in lumps ; let stand until hard 
before putting in fruit, keeping remainder of jelly hot by placing in 
kettle of hot water. When the jelly is hard arrange the fruit around 
sides of mold, bearing in mind that it will be reversed when turned 
out. Then add a little more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and 
when that has hardened add another row of fruit and jelly in same 
way, and so on until mold is full. Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, 
cherries and currants are put in raw, but peaches, apricots, plums, 
apples, etc., are better for being first boiled in a little clear syrup. 
In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly 
may be made with preserved fruits. When 
served garnish with the same fruit as laid 
in the jelly ; for instance an open jelly with 
Open Mold. strawbcrries may have a little of the same strawberries. 
fruit filled in the center as illustrated. This is also a delicious way 




394 DESSERT JELLIES. 



of serving ice-cream, as the open mold can be filled with Straw- 
berry Ice-cream, or any ice-cream, placed in the cave and then 
quickly turned out and the center filled with the berries. 

A stem of fresh grapes appa,rently suspended in a deep mold of 
transparent jelly is also a beautiful ornament for the table. To 
secure this effect, place the grapes stem downward in mold, aiid to 
keep in position while pouring in jelly attach two threads as near 
top of stem as possible, bring around the mold and tie, having 
bunch exactly in center. Have jelly quite cold but not hardened, 
pour it in around grapes, filling up to top of mold and set away to 
cool. Before turning out of mold, clip the threads as closely as 
possible, and by using a sharp-pointed pair of scissors they may be 
clipped quite clo&c. to the stem. Or if jelly is cold enough the threads 
may be carefully removed when they are reached in pouring in, then 
fill to top. Italian Jelly is also very ornamental, and is made by 
half filling a mold with jelly and when hard arranging round sides 
of mold a circle of little cakes of blanc-mange, v,'hich must have 
been cooled in a sheet of the desired thickness and cut out for this 
purpose. Finish as directed above. 

Jelly Sandwiches. — These are very nice for cliildren's parties, and 
are an attractive addition to any table. The Accommodating Cake 
recipe, in which neither butter nor milk is used, is excellent for 
sandwiches : Beat six eggs very light, add a cup and a half sugar 
and beat again ; then liglitly stir in a cup and a half sifted flour. A 
teaspoon baking powder in the flour, and a tablespoon vinegar may 
be used, but neither are essential. Bake in deep round cans (the 
ordinary baking powder cans are a nice size for this purpose), well 
buttered, filling only a little more than half full to allow for rising. 
When done and cold turn out and cut in slices as thick as liked, 
spread with jelly, place two together, and neat little round sandwiches 
are made. The cake is also excellent baked in a loaf, and any loaf 
cake may be baked in the cans, the round slices being a novelty on 
any table. Chocolate Cake baked as above and made into sand- 
wiches is a favorite with the little folks. The following is one of the 
best recipes : Put a half cup sweet milk, yolk of one egg and two 
and a half tablespoons grated chocolate over the fire until it comes 
to boiling point, then take off, let cool, sweeten to taste and beat it 
into the following cake mixture : One cup granulated sugar, half 
cup butter, two eggs, teaspoon baking powder, half cup sweet milk, 
two cups flour. This may also be baked in a loaf or makes a very 
elegant layer cake spread with white icing flavored with vanilla. Or 
make after this recipe : One cup each cream and sugar, two eggs, two 
teaspoons baking powder and flour to make good cake batter. Bake 
in the cans, slice and spread with jelly ; or, if variety is wanted, bake 
in gem or patty pans and ice with the Chocolate Caramel Icinq 
given in Icing. 



MEATS. 395 



MEATS 



Every practical housekeeper should spare no pains to perfect 
herself in this, one of the most important (by many considered the 
most important,) departments of cooking. Complete directions for 
buying and curing meats will be found under the heads of Market- 
ing and Curing Meats, so that here only instructions for cooking are 
given. If cooked when first killed, meat will be found tender ; if 
kept a little time the muscles stiffen and it will be tough, but if left 
a longer time the muscles relax and the meat becomes more tender 
than at first. Young meat of all kinds should be cooked very 
thoroughly to be wholesome. Beef is always "hung," as it is termed, 
at least a week in all first-class markets before cut up, in the re- 
frigerator in summer, and is kept sometimes two weeks in cold 
winter weather. The leg and haunch of mutton is also preferred 
by many after it has been hung three days or longer, but all other 
meats, save game, should be cooked as soon after being killed as 
possible. If necessary to keep meat several days in summer, wash 
over with vinegar, cover lightly with bran and hang in a high room 
or passage where there Is a constant current of air. While hanging, 
change the position of the meat occasionally to distribute the juices 
evenly. Should there be any signs of a change before it is possible 
to use it, rubbing the meat over lightly with salt will preserve it a 
day or two longer. Meat is more likely to spoil in rainy 
weather than dry and should be cared for accordingly. Beef suet 
may be kept a long time in a cool place without freezing, or by 
burying it deep in the flour barrel so as to entirely exclude the air. 
To restore tainted meat, wash in water in which a little borax has 
been dissolved, cutting away all discolored portions. 



396 MEATS. 



The best manoer of cooking tough meat is to boil it very slowly 
until tender, letting the water all boil away, then brown in kettle or 
oven. Tough steaks, etc., are improved by laying two hours on a 
dish containing three or four tablespoons each vinegar and salad 
oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes. 
The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extract- 
ing their juices. Some simply soak in vinegar and water, allowing 
three-fourths pint vinegar to three quarts water for a ten-pound 
piece, and let lie in this six hours, or longer if a larger piece. To 
thaw frozen meat, place in a warm room overnight, or lay it for a 
few hours in cold water — the latter plan being best. The ice which 
forms on the surface as it thaws is easily removed. If cooked be- 
fore it is entirely thawed, it will be tough. Meat once frozen should 
Hot be allowed to thaw until just before cooking. 

When ordering a rolled roast have the butcher send home the 
bones to be used in making soup, stock, gravies, etc. Chop or break - 
them in small pieces and boil with onion, celery, turnip, carrot and 
parsley or any one or two of these. American housekeepers have 
yet much to learn from the French cook who throws nothing away. 
Instead of going to the butcher for meat out of which to make stock 
he utilizes bones as above, or employs the trimmings of joints for 
this purpose, and converts the skimmings from the soup pot or 
drippings from roast or boiled meats into uses for which butter and 
lard are pressed into service by most cooks. For directions as to 
the care and nreparation of drippings etc., see recipe for Clarified 
Drippings. 

Most people also have the idea that a finely flavored dish must 
cost a great deal ; this is a mistake, for if one has untainted meat, 
or sound vegetables, or even Indian meal, to begin with, it can be 
made delicious with proper seasoning. One reason why French 
cooking is much nicer than any other is that it is seasoned with a 
great variety of herbs and spices ; these cost very little, and if a few 
cents' worth were bought at a time one would soon have a good as- 
sortment. The mixed spices and herbs, now to be had in all large 
cities, are very nice for seasoning meats, gravies, etc., and save the 
trouble of preparing. Recipes for their preparation are given, how- 
ever, for those who prefer to mix them at home. If all the season- 
ings — spices, herbs, etc., — mentioned in recipes are not to be had, 
make the best use of those at hand by combining them judiciously. 



MEATS. 



397 



But no matter how nicely cooked and seasoned, meat is often utterly- 
spoiled in serving. It should always be neatly dished on hot plat- 
ter and sent to table with very hot plates, heated in warming oven or 
in a pan over hot water. Especial attention to this point is neces- 
sary when serving mutton, as nothing is more unpleasant than a 
showing of cold mutton fat on a still colder plate. For very full 
directions for garnishing meats see Garnishes, though suggestions 
will be found with nearly every recipe. If one has not the articles 
recommended, others may be substituted, according to the fancy of 
the cook and the meat may of course be served without any garnish, 
yet its attractiveness adds much to the enjoyment of any dish. 

Glazing adds greatly to the appearance of meat and full direc- 
tions will be found under Glaze, in Gravies. Braising is a favorite 
method of cooking meats in France and Germany and several rec- 
ipes are given. Complete general directions for the more common 
methods employed follow under appropriate heads. Very complete 
instructions for Carving Meats will also be found under that head 
later on, a careful study of which, with the many illustrations given, 
will enable anyone to become an accomplished carver. 



Boiled Meats. —-'Boilmg is the most economical way of cooking 
meats,when properly done,as there is comparatively little waste in boil- 
ing from the fact that fat melts less quickly than in broiling or roast- 
ing, and the covering of the pot retards evaporation, while the water 
absorbed by the meat adds to its bulk to a certain extent without 
detracting from its quality ; the liquor in which it is boiled, or 
"stock," makes excellent soups and gravies and should always be 
put by for this purpose. Every economical housekeeper will provide 
herself with a stock-pot, which should be kept in a cool place and 
all remains of soups, gravies, etc., emptied therein, save^ that from 
mutton or fish, which must be kept separate. Inattention to the 
temperature of the water and too early application of salt causes great 
waste in boiling meats. To make fresh meat rich and nutritious it 
should be placed in a kettle ofhoilinffvfsder (pure soft water is best), 
skimmed well as soon as it begins to boil again, and placed where 
it will boil slowly but constantly. There should be enough water 
to entirely cover the meat and to last until thoroughly cooked. The 
kettle should be large enough so that the meat will not touch the 
sides, and some place a plate in the bottom to prevent scorching. 
Care must be taken to remove all scum at the first boiling, and as 
fast as it rises, or it will quickly sink and spoil the appearance of 
the meat. The meat should be occasionallv turned and kept well 



898 MEATS. 

under the water, and fresli boiling water supplied if it evaporates too 
much in boiling, Plunging in hot water hardens the fibrine on the 
outside, encasing and retaining the rich juices — and the whole theory 
of correct cooking, in a nut-shell, is to retain as much as possible of 
the nutriment of food. No salt should be added until about half an 
hour before the meat is done, as it extracts the juices of the meat if 
added too soon ; do not fail to remove the scum that rises after salt- 
ing. Boil gently, as rapid boiling hardens the fibrine and renders 
the meat hard, tasteless, and scarcely more nutritious than leather, 
without really hastening the process of cooking, every degree of heat 
beyond the boiling point being worse than wasted. There is a pithy 
saying : " The pot should only smile, not laugh." The bubbles 
should appear in one part of the surface of the water only, not all 
over it. This differs from "simmering," as in the latter there is 
merely a sizzling on the side of the pan. But the water must always 
be kept at boiling heat, or simmering, else it will soak into the meat 
and render it flat and insipid. Salt meat should pe put on in cold 
water so that it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to 
the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, the time to be 
modified, of course, by the quality of meat. A pod of red pepper in 
the water will prevent the unpleasant odor of boiling meat from fill- 
ing the house. Never pierce meat with a fork when taking up or 
turning, as this allows the rich juices to escape ; tie a stout cord 
around the meat when put into kettle with which to lift it out. If 
meat seems tough, put a tablespoon or two of vinegar in the water 
before putting in meat. Dried and smoked meats should be soaked 
for some hours before putting into water. White meats, like mutton 
and poultry, are improved in appearance by boiling rice with them ; 
or boiling closely tied in a coarse well-floured cotton cloth is better, 
and cooked in this way the meat will be very juicy. The cloth 
must be wrung out of scalding water and dredged inside thickly with 
flour. When the meat is wanted to slice cold it will be much im- 
proved if left to cool in the water in which it is cooked. When to 
be served hot take up as soon as done. 

To boil meat Au Court Bouillon make a Marinade by cooking 
in a saucepan one large onion and two slices each carrot and turnip 
ten minutes in two tablespoons butter ; then add four cloves, a bunch 
of sweet herbs, two or three stalks celery, half teaspoon each pepper 
and mustard, stick cinnamon and one quart cider, or pint each vine- 
gar and water. Put meat in kettle, add marinade and water to cover 
and cook till tender, adding two tablespoons salt quarter of an hour 
before it is done. This is also nice for stewed beef or fish. Any flavor- 
ing not liked can be omitted in any marinade. The meat boiled for 
soup may be made into Jellied Meat by taking from the bones, 
chopping, and seasoning well with catsups and spices, moistening 
with a bowl of the liquor in which it was boiled (taken out for this 
before vegetables are put in) and put into molds; when cold turn 



MEATS. 399 

out and slice. If the liquor is not thick enough to jelly, boil down 
or add a little gelatine. 

Broiled Meats. — Broiling is the most wholesome method of 
cooking meats, and is most acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is 
made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but 
some of the juices are lost by the operation; cutting it across in 
small squares Avith a sharp knife on both sides, being careful not to 
cut quite through, is better than either. Tough meats are also im- 
proved by laying for two hours on a dish containing three or four 
tablespoons each of vinegar and salad oil (or butter), a little pepper, 
but no salt ; turn every twenty minutes ; the action of the oil and 
vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim off 
all superfluous fat, but never wash a freshly-cut steak. Never salt 
or pepper steaks or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, 
dip in melted butter. Place the steak on a hot, well-greased grid- 
iron and leave only long enough to sear one side so that the juices 
cannot escape, then turn and sear the other, and cook from five to 
twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done, turning often, alniost 
continually, to keep in the juices and prevent scorching ; the time 
required for cooking depends also upon thickness of steak and kind 
of broiler used. Dish on a hot platter, season with salt and pepper 
and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter and serve at once. A 
small pair of tongs are best to turn steaks, as piercing with a fork 
frees the juices. If fat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be 
extinguished by sprinkling with 
salt, always withdrawing the 
gridiron to prevent the steak 
from acquiring a smoky flavor. 
Always have a brisk fire, 
whether cooking in a patent 
broiler directly over the fire, or 
on a gridiron over a bed of live 
coals. As the success of the 
broil depends upon the state of 

the fire, be sure that it is very hot, perfectly free from smoke and 
will last during the broiling, whether one or more steaks are to be 
cooked. If the fire is not very clear put a cover over the meat when 
using a gridiron, which will prevent its blackening or burning, and 
this is an especially good plan when the meat is thick, or when 
broiling birds or chickens, which are apt to be rare at the joints un- 
less this is done. A charcoal fire is of course best for broiling. 
Broiling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast 
or dinner ; every other dish should be ready for table, so that this 
may hav3 the cook's undivided attention. A steel gridiron with 
slender bars is better than the ordinary iron one, as the broad, flat 
iron bars fry and scorch the meat, imparting a disagreeable flavor. 
A. light wire broiler that can be kept in the hand and turned quickly 




400 MEATS. 

is the best, if one has not a patent broiler. In using the patent 
broilers, such as the American and the later and better Dover, care 
must be used to keep all doors and lids of stove or range closed dur- 
ing the process. The dampers which shut ofif the draft to chimney 
should be thrown open before beginning, to take the flames in that 
direction. Never take lid from broiler without first removing it 
from fire, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke 
it. 

Fried Meats. — Frying, proper, is immersing in enough hot fat 
to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, 
the food is quickly crisped at the surface and does not absorb the fat. 
The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has 
not yet been named in English, but is called Sauteing in French and 
is popularly known as frying in this country; it is not nearly so 
nice nor healthful a method as Frying hy Immersion, though very 
generally practiced everywhere. The secret of success in immersing 
is what the French call the "surprise." The fire must be hot enough 
to sear the surface and make it impervious to fat, and at the same 
time seal up the rich juices. As soon as meat is browned by this 
sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place 
on stove, that the process may be finished more slowly. This method 
of frying renders the meat more tender, and is a nice way of cook- 
ing tough steaks. For instructions as to preparing and heating fat, 
see Fritters. When improperly done, frying results in an unwhole- 
some and greasy mess, unfit for food, but with care, plenty of fat 
(which may be used again and again), and the right degree of heat, 
nothing is easier than to produce a crisp, delicious and healthful 
dish. Steaks and chops, or cutlets, are very nice either single- 
breaded or dipped in batter, as Fritters, and fried. For complete di- 
rections for breading see Croquettes. Finely sifted bread-crumbs, 
cracker dust, granula, cerealine, Graham and corn meal are all used 
for breading meats. Be sure that the fat for frying is clean and 
fresh and free from salt, or the article fried will have a bad odor. 
Half lard and half beef drippings make a good frying mixture for 
either sauteing or immersing, though lard is largely used alone, and 
for those who cannot eat articles fried in lard, drippings or Ameri- 
can cooking oil should be used. The latter is much superior to any- 
thing else for frying purposes, and the drippings from veal, lamb, 
beef and pork are better than lard, if carefully clarified according to 
directions hereafter given ; but the mutton fat should be clarified 
and put away by itself and used only for frying mutton chops, etc., 
as many persons dislike the flavor. Fried meat should be sent to 
table the moment it is done, as the smallest delay tends to make the 
meat lose its crispness and become flabby. 

Larding Meats. — This is a very nice way of preparing meat, 
game or poultry for roasting. Either fat bacon or fat salt pork may 




MEATS. 401 

be used, and is better for this purpose if cured without saltpeter, 
which reddens white meats. For larding small birds cut the bacon 
or pork into strips of same size one and a half inches long and a six- 
teenth of an inch thick; for chickens from an eighth to quarter of 
an inch thick, and for venison, beef and other meats two inches long 
and half an inch thick. These strips are called lardoons and are 
inserted in the surface of the meat with a larding needle as follows : 
With the point of larding needle make three distinct lines across 
half an inch apart ; run needle into third line, at further side, and 
bring it out at the first, placing one of the lar- 
doons in it ; draw the needle through, leaving 
one-fourth inch of bacon exposed at each end ; 
proceed thus to end of row ; then make another 
line half an inch distant, stick in another row of 
lardoons, bringing them out at the second line, 
leaving the ends of the bacon all same length ; make the next row 
again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the lar- 
doons of the first row ortwo,proceeding in this manner until the whole 
surface is larded in chequered rows as shown in cut. After inserting 
the needle work it around a little to enlarge the opening, and the 
lard „ ons will slip through easier. In warm weather it is well to place 
the lardoons in a bowl of ice to harden before using. Care must be 
taken not to have the strips too large for the needle or they will be 
pressed out as soon as the loose part of the needle touches the meat. 
Before Larding JBirds^ hold breast over clear fire for a min- 
ute, or dip it in boiling water, then proceed as above, using a smaller 
needle than for meats. Larding needles are not expensive costing 
only from ten to thirty cents, but if one is not at hand the larding 
can be very neatly done by making incisions with a pen-knife and 
pushing the lardoons through with the fingers, pinching the meat 
up with one hand while cutting and putting the lardoons in with 
the other. When preparing a roast in haste, strips of fat salt pork 
or bacon are often tied over meat or breasts of birds, instead of 
larding, and this is called "barding." The fat from the fowl itself 
inay be used for this purpose instead of bacon. All white-fleshed 
birds are improved by larding, as well as veal and sweetbreads. 

Molded Meat.—Qi\iO^ fine a pound lean meat of any kind, and 
add to it a chopped onion, tablespoon fine bread-crumbs, teaspoon 
salt, saltspoon white pepper, cup gravy (made by boihng the bones 
or pieces left after cutting off the lean, then straining and season- 
ing). Stir all together and let stand half an hour. Butter a deep 
bowl, pudding dish or mold, press in the mixture and cover with a 
plate. Place in a pan of water and cool in moderate oven one hour. 
Turn out carefully and serve hot with any of the following sauces : 
For Molded Mutton, gravy with a dessertspoon of currant jelly ; 
for Beef, gravy flavored with mushrooms or horse-radish sauce ; for 
26 



402 ' MEATS. 

Veal or Fowl, tomato sauce ; for Pot-k, apple auce,fres'n onions oi 
onion sauce. It can also be sliced cold. 

Potted Meats. — If wanted to be kept for some time, the meat 
must be good and well dressed, but if to be used within a day or 
two any odds or ends will do ; when cooked, all bone, skin and sinew 
must be removed, and the meat pounded in a mortar with clarified 
butter, cayenne, and spices to taste, until a smooth paste. Press tho 
mixture into pots or jars of small size, until about two-thirds full. 
Pour a layer of clarified melted butter, or good drippings (beet is pref- 
erable to any other), or mutton suet, upon the top of the paste to 
the depth of an eighth of an inch, for the purpose of excluding the 
air. Always wait till the meat is cold before potting and press very 
firmly into the jars, not allowing a drop of gravy to get in, for it will 
turn the potted or preserved meat sour. Tie oilskin or oiled paper 
over the jars. The air must be excluded. Although these pastes 
are fit to eat almost immediately they will keep perfectly good for a 
year,and often a longer period. The most popular meats for potting are 
Veal, Ham, Beef, Tongue, Game and Poultry. Fish is done in the 
same way — such as Atichovies, Prawns ^nd Shrimps. Potted foods 
of this description are intended as relishes for the breakfast, lunch- 
eon and supper-table chiefly, served in slices or spread on toast or 
bread. Any cold remains of meat may be potted, and in every well- 
regulated English house potting is an every-day affair for the cook. 
If ham, game, tongue, beef, or fish is served one day, it comes on 
potted next day at lunch or breakfast. ' This is a very good way of 
managing left-over food, instead of invariably making into hashes, 
Btews, etc. Clarified Butter for potting, or any of the other pur- 
poses for which it is used, is prepared by placing the butter in a 
bowl and set in a saucepan of cold water, (or use a custard kettle), 
which should be heated slowly until butter melts and the scum 
forms ; remove from fire, skim, and return to warm again gently, 
then let stand a moment or two to settle, strain and put over the 
potted meat, or bottle for future use. When taken off the pots as 
opened for table the butter may be used for common pie paste, bast- 
ing meats and for fish sauce. 

Boasted Meats. — Roasting proper is almost unknown in these 
days of stoves and ranges — baking, a much inferior process, having 
taken its place. In roasting, the joint is placed close to a brisk, open 
fire, on a spit or in a tin kitchen, turned so as to expose every part 
to the fire, and then moved back to finish in a more moderate heat. 
The roast should be basted frequently with the drippings, and, when 
half cooked, with salt and water. To roast in oven, the preparations 
are very simple. The fire must be bright and the oven hot. Trim 
off any torn or bruised portions from the roast, which will need no 
washing if it comes from a cleanly butcher ; wiping with a towel 
dampened in cold water is all that is needed ; if washing is necessary, 



MEATS. 403 

dash over quickly Avith cold water a\id wipe dry. Washing and 
soaking fresh meat draws out its juices and impairs its nutriment. 
A large piece is best for roasting, this being especially true of beef. 
If meat has been kept a little too long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, 
and dust with a very little tJour to absorb the moisture. Place in 
pan, on a trivet", or two or three clean bits of hard wood or bones 
laid cross-wise of pan, to keep it out of the fat. If meat is very lean, 
add a tablespoon or two of water ; if fat, the juices of the meat will 
be sufficient, and the addition of the water renders it juiceless and 
tasteless. The oven should be very hot when the meat is put in that 
the surface may be quickly seared or browned over and the juices 
confined. Keep the fire hot and bright, baste every ten or fifteen 
minutes, and when about half done season well with salt and turn 
the roast, also seasoning the turned side, always keeping the thick 
part of the meat in the hottest part of the oven. Take care that 
every part of the roast, including the fat of the tenderloin, is cooked 
so that the texture is changed. If the fire has been properly made, 
and the roast is not large, it should not require replenishing, but, if 
necessary, add a little fuel at a time, so as not to check the fire, in- 
stead of waiting until a great deal must be added to keep up the 
bright heat. Most persons like roast beef and mutton underdone, 
and less time is required to cook them than for pork and veal or 
lamb, which must be very well done. Fifteen minutes to the pound 
and fifteen minutes longer is the rule for beef and mutton, and twenty 
minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for pork, veal and 
lamb. The directions for beef apply equally well to pork, veal, mut- 
ton and lamb. Underdone meat is cooked throughout so that the 
bright red juices follow the knife of the carver ; if it is a livid purple 
it is raw, and unfit for food. When done, the roast should be a rich 
brown, and the bottom of the pan covered with a thick glaze Re- 
move the joint, and those who do not salt before or while roasting 
now sift evenly over with fine salt, and it is readv to serve. Never 
salt before cooking, as it draws out the juices. To keep the roast 
hot while making the gravy place it in a pan or on an old platter in 
the oven. To prepare gravy, pour off" the fat gently, holding pan 
steadily, so as not to lose the gravy which underlies it ; put pan on 
stove, and pour into it a half cup boiling water, varying the quantity 
with the size of the roast ; soup or thin stock of any kind is better 
than water if at hand ; add a little salt, stir with a spoon until the 
particles adhering to sides of pan are removed and dissolved, making 
a rich brown gravy ; if necessary add a thickening of a little flour, 
mixed smooth with water, though if a nice, juicy roast, the gravy is 
much better without. Some first stir the flour into the drippings, 
then pour in boiling water. 

In roasting all meats, success depends upon basting frequently by 
dipping the gravy from the pan over the meat with a large spoon, 
turning often so as to prevent burning, and carefully regulating heat 



404 



MEATS. 



of oven. Roasts prepared with dressing require more time than those 
without. In roasting meats if necessary to add water do not put it 
in until the meat has been in the oven about half an hour, or until 
it begms to brown, and then only a very little, a half cup or so, of 
hot water. The appearance of a roast is very much improved by 
dredging with flour after each basting, commencing about half an 
hour before the meat is done. Do this with the flour after dredging 
evenly all over, first seasoning with salt. When the flour has be- 
come thoroughly browned, which will be in about ten minutes, baste 
and dredge again ; continue thus until done, then season with pep- 
per and the meat will be sent to table coveredwith a handsome brown 
crust. Do not baste after the last dredging, and never baste after 
dredging until the flour has become thoroughly browned. If wanted 
nicely frothed, baste with butter the last time, then dredge with 
flour. 

Although we consider the above much the better method of 
roasting meat, some prefer to omit the dredging entirely, and others 
begin to dredge with the first basting. Some good cooks first cover 
the bottom of pan rather lightly with flour, then put meat on trivet 
in pan and place in oven until the flour is browned ; sufficient water 
is then added to cover bottom of pan, the oven is closed for about 
ten minutes, when the meat is basted with the liquid in pan and 
dredged with salt, pepper and flour ; this is repeated every fifteen 
minutes until roast is done. The, claim is made that though the 
steam from the water and the salting of the meat both have a ten- 
dency to draw out the juices, by beginning thus early to dredge with 
flour a paste is formed over the meat which keeps in the juices and 
also enriches the roast. Whichever method is followed, be sure that 
the oven is hot when the meat is put in and the heat kept steady 
throughout. The meat-rack or trivet is a necessity no housekeeper 
should attempt to do without, and its cost is small. It keeps t-he 
meat from the bottom of pan and prevents scorching, or the soaking 
out of the juices when water is used. An excellent marinade for 
basting roast meats is made by chopping some fat bacon with a 
clove of garlic and sprig of parsley, adding salt, pepper, tablespoon 
vinegar, and four of oil ; beat up well, and baste the meat with it 
while roasting. The variation in roasted meats consists simply in 
the method of preparing before putting in the oven. Some are to be 
larded, some stuffed with bread dressing, and others plain, as above, 
only seasoning with pepper and salt. To prepare a Pot-roast, which 
is a favorite method of cooking meats with many, place the meat, 
neatly trimmed if a thick piece, or rolled and skewered if thin, in a 
hot stewpan or round-bottomed kettle, in which there is a little fat 
or butter if needed and turn to quickly brown or sear over on all 
sides to confine the juices. Then turn in a little hot water, cover 
closely (a seasoning of herbs or spice may be added as liked), and 
simmer gently until done. The time required depends upon size 



MEATS. 



405 



and quality of roast, a four-pound piece from shoulder of beef re 
quiring about three hours. Care should be taken that the meat does 
not scorch or burn to bottom of kettle, though only just sufficient 
water to prevent this should be kept in kettle, adding a little as it 
cooks away. Turn the meat occasionally to brown and cook all 
sides alike, and toward the last it should fry gently in its drippings. 
Observe the same rule for seasoning with salt and pepper as given 
for other roasts. The cheaper cuts of meat are usually cooked in 
this way, though some think almost any piece juicier and richer when 
properly done. Pot-roasts are sometimes larded, when meat is very 
lean. A rich gravy may be made from drippings in kettle. 

Steamed Meats. — This is by far the nicest and most economical 
way of cooking meats ; place in steamer over hot water and cook till 
tender; put in pan, with any herbs or spices, if wished, season with 
salt and brown in oven by basting and dredging with flour as in 
Roasted Meats. In a hot oven it will brown nicely in twenty or 
thirty minutes. 

Stewed Meats. — The inferior parts of meat are generally used 
for stews, which if properly prepared are very palatable. If made 
from fresh meat, it should be immersed in boiling water at first, and 
then placed where it will simmer slowly until done, as in Boiled 
Meats, skimming well ; when done, season, add thickening, and flavor 
to taste. Sliced potatoes and any vegetables liked are cooked in 
stews, and some first fry both meat and vegetables a few minutes, or 
until brown, before pouring over the water in which they are to be 
cooked, and which should be only just enough to cook the meat and 
leave sufficient for gravy. A simple stew of meat, well seasoned, 
with dumplings dropped in just before done, is relished by nearly 
every one, and dumplings are often added when vegetables are used. 
Thin pieces of meat may be spread with a dressing, rolled and tied, 
then stewed with any additions of flavoring, vegetables etc., preferred. 
Trimmings from roasts and other meats, cut into pieces of same 
size, may be made into stews, and any cold meat may be thus 
utilized. Stews should cook very slowly after the boiling point is 
reached. 

Boiled Beef.— Select a good rib piece, or thick piece from the 
round or rump, as a simple cut would be too thin ; the flank, plate 
and brisket, though all good boiling pieces, are too thin to boil to 
advantage without rolling, but are very easily rolled and kept in 
place with twine or skewers. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and 
put on to boil as directed in Boiled Meats. Allow twenty minutes 
to each pound for boiling, and when just done, add seasoning of salt 
and serve with any salad preferred, or Horse-radisTi Sauce., made as 
follows : Take equal proportions of horse-radish a,nd boiled apples, 
grate together with good vinegar and a little sugar and rub with. a. 



406 MEATS. 

wooden spoon until mixture is smooth. Garnish with tufts of 
scraped horse-radish, boiled vegetables or parsley. If meat seems 
tough add a tablespoon or two vinegar when put on to boil. For a 
Pot-au-feu put six pounds beef in pot containing four quarts water, 
set on back of stove, skim, and when nearly boiling add teaspoon 
and a half salt, half pound liver, two carrots, four turnips, one head 
celery, two onions (one of them browned), with a clove stuck in 
each, and a piece of parsnip. Skim again, and simmer four or five 
hours, adding a little cold water now and then ; skim off part of fat, 
put slices of bread in a soup-tureen, dish half the vegetables over 
them, and pour in the broth ; serve the meat separately with the 
other half of the vegetables. 

Bouilli Beef. — Procure a piece of rump weighing from twelve 
to thirteen pounds and have the butcher remove bone ; put an onion 
in cavity, rub meat all over with mixed spices and let stand two days 
to become tender. Remove the onion when put to boil. Boil slow- 
ly three or four hours, skimming carefully ; add six or eight cloves 
two blades mace and a few celery tops to water in which it is to be 
boiled, and about two hours before done put in two carrots, thinly 
sliced, an onion and some allspice and whole peppers. For the 
gravy, thicken a pint of the meat liquor with browned flour, add a 
few capers and a tablespoon catsup, pour over beef and serve. 

Pressed Beef. — Roll and tie a piece of corned brisket of beef 
in a cloth and simmer gently in plenty of water four or five hours ; 
when done remove the string, tie the cloth at each end, put upon a 
dish with another dish over, upon Avhich place a heavy weight, leav- 
ing it until quite cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and 
glaze it lightly, and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh pars- 
ley. Or take any fresh, lean beef and boil closely covered till it will 
fall from the bones ; use only enough water to prevent burning; 
mix and chop fine ; put it in a pan or deep dish ; skim excess of 
grease from the cooking liquor and add to each three or four pounds 
of meat a tablespoon gelatine, dissolved ; put it on a large platter or 
tin that will fit the dish, and place on this a twelve to twenty pound 
weight ; when cold it will be a solid mass from which slices may be 
cut ; will keep several days, even in warm weather, if kept cool. 

Boast Beef. — The fillet or tenderloin is, of course, the choicest 
roast, blit so expensive that it is served only at very elegant dinners 
or banquets ; next comes the sirloin roast, then the rib, round, rump, 
and shoulder or chuck roasts. In choosing a rib roast sope prefer 
the first second and third ribs, called the fore-rib roast, while others 
order the third, fourth and fifth, which contain more meat and are 
without doubt most economical. There are twelve ribs of which the 
last five are classed -with chuck roasts, A two-rib roast is sufficient 



MEATS. 407 

for a half-dozen persons, and no less should be roasted for a smaller 
number, as a one-rib roast wastes and dries up greatly in cooking. 
Prepare and cook as directed in Roasted Meats, or in any of the 
recipes that follow. When ordering a rib roast have the bones re- 
moved and the roast rolled and skewered or tied in compact form. 
When served take out wooden skewer and replace with a silver one. 
If one has not a meat rack or trivet, the bones may be ordered sent 
home with the roast and placed under it when put in pan. Some 
prefer to cover the roast with a coarse flour and water paste, which 
should be taken off to baste and brown the meat before serving. For 
a nice Rump Moast take three pounds of rump, trim nicely, and cut 
00* all fat. Chop all sorts of sweet herbs together, very fine, with a 
little shallot and a great deal of spice, put in saucer that has been 
rubbed with garlic, and cover with vinegar. Cut fat bacon into long 
slips, dip it into the herbs and vinegar, and let the herbs be very 
thick upon the bacon ; lard the beef regularly with these on both 
sides, if necessary, in order that it should be thoroughly flavored. 
Rub the beef over with the remainder o^ the herbs and spice, flour 
it, add piece of butter, size of walnut, rolled in flour, and pint water. 
Bake in oven, strain the gravy, which will scarcely require either 
thickening or browning, and serve with pickles on top. Excellent 
when cold, but should be served hot at first. The gravy may be 
boiled to a glaze if liked. For a German Boast procure a rib-piece or 
loin-roast of seven to eight pounds. Beat it thoroughly all over, 
lay it in the baking pan and baste with melted butter. Put it inside 
the well-heated oven, and baste frequently with its own fat, which 
will make it brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, the gravy 
is growing too brown, turn a glass of German cooking wine into the 
bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks away. 
The roast needs about two hours time to be done, and must be brown 
outside but inside still a little red. Season with salt and pepper. 
Squeeze a little lemon juice over it, and also turn the gravy upon it, 
after skimming ofl" all fat. Or choose four pounds rib beef, take out 
bones, put in pan with some beef broth and cook until all broth is 
absorbed. Then take some parsley, garlic and twenty mushrooms 
chopped fine, a good piece of butter, pepper, salt, mix well and spread 
the beef with it, cover with buttered paper and bake in a quick oven 
till well cooked on all sides. For French Roast Beef, leave the 
meat two days in winter and eighteen hours in summer in a prepa- 
ration of four tablespoons sweet oil, seasoning of salt and pepper, 
two tablespoons chopped parsley, four sliced onions, two bay leaves 
and juice of half a lemon ; put half on meat and half under it ; this 
improves the meat and makes it more tender. Place the meat on 
the spit or in pan for roasting, and baste with these seasonings or 
with melted butter. The oven should be quick and as soon as a 
coating or crust forms, the fire can be slackened a little to prevent 
burning. Baste well and often, and serve underdone and juicy. 



408 MEATS. 

oome like a Bed of VegetaUes for roast beef, which is prepared by 
placing in pan some scraps of salt-pork, a tablespoon each sliced 
carrots, and turnips, teaspoon each sHced onions and pepper-corns, 
half a dozen whole cloves, half a bay leaf and a little parsley ; or use 
only the pork with a part of the vegetables, etc. Add a very little 
water, unless a great deal of pork is used. When done, pour away 
nearly all the dripi)ings, leaving about two tablespoons, which rub 
through a fine sieve with the vegetables, using a potato-masher, and 
return pulp to pan, or put in saucepan, add one tablespoon flour, 
stir till brown and then slowly add one pint water. A Round Boast 
of beef is nice with the bone removed and the cavity filled with 
force-meat. A nice way to prepare a thin piece offlank or low priced 
steak, is to make a dressing of bread-crumbs as for roast turkey or 
chicken, spread over the meat, and beginning at one end roll up 
tightly, bind with twine and roast as directed. Very nice sliced off 
thin for luncheon or tea. A good Mustard Sauce to serve with roast 
beef is made by thoroughly mixing one tablespoon vinegar, two of 
dry mustard, a teaspoon each flour, salt and sugar, beaten yolks of 
two eggs, and a cup water. Dissolve two tablespoons butter on the 
'fire, add to the above mixture and stir till it boils. If too stiff", add 
tvater or vinegar, as it must pour out like cream. Thinly-sliced 
pickles, or a teaspoon tarragon vinegar improve the sauce. 

Beef Loaf . — Take two pounds of the round, rind of half a lem- 
on, three sprigs parsley, teaspoon salt, quarter teaspoon pepper, 
quarter of a nutmeg, two tablespoons melted butter, one raw egg, 
half a teaspoon onion juice, and mustard if liked. Chop meat, par- 
sley and lemon rind 'vcry fine. Add other ingredients and mix 
thoroughly ; shape into a roll about three inches in diameter and 
Bix in length ; roll in buttered paper and bake thirty minutes, baste, 
mix with butter and water. When cooked place on hot dish, gently 
unroll from paper, and serve with tomato or mushroom sauce poured 
over. Or it may be packed in pudding dish and turned out to serve 
whole, slicing at table. 

Beef Stew. — Procure two pounds rump steak, and make deep 
incisions in it, but do not cut quite through ; fill them with a mix- 
ture of bread crumbs, a minced onion, a little cream or butter and 
pepper and salt. Roll up the steak and put it in a stew-pan with 
plenty of butter or fat ; let it stew very gently for more than two 
hours ; then serve with its own gravy, thickened with a little flour, 
and flavored with tomato sauce, catsup, or anything liked. Stewed 
Beef with Tomatoes is relished by many. First, scald the toma- 
toes, skin and quarter and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then bury 
the meat in a stew pan with tomatoes, and add bits of butter rolled 
in flour, a little sugar, and an onion minced fine; cook until meat is 



MEATS. 409 

done and tomatoes dissolved to a pulp. For an Arabian Stew take 
the tender part of the round of beef, lard with raisins, spice well 
with ground cloves and allspice and put over the fire with only a 
little water to prevent burning ; add pepper and salt and plenty of 
raisins through the gravy or sauce. Any bits of beef trimmed from 
roasts or steaks, or cold meat left over, may be cut into slices or 
pieces of uniform size and made into stews. Thin pieces of beef 
may be seasoned, then rolled and tied, first sjd reading with a dress- 
ing if liked. The other ingredients composing the stew may be 
varied at pleasure, also the seasonings. When no vegetables are 
used the gravy should be thickened with a little flour and flavored 
with spices, lemon juice and grated rind, catsup or any sharp sauce, 
and served poured over the beef. Chopped mushrooms are very 
nice in a stew and scraped or grated horse-radish is often served as 
a garnish. An excellent Powder for Stews is composed of one-fourth 
:)unce each thyme and bay leaf, one-eighth ounce each marjoram 
and rosemary ; dry, pound and bottle, and use according to taste. 
A dainty little stew is called Beef Collops ; for this have rump steak 
cut thin and divide into pieces about three inches long ; hack with 
a knife and dredge with flour. Fry about three minutes in a little 
butter, then put in a stewpan and pour the gravy over. Add a finely 
chopped shallot or small onion, teaspoon capers, little walnut cat- 
sup, a piece of butter with a little flour rubbed in, and salt and pep- 
per to taste. Simmer, not boil, ten minutes and serve in hot cov- 
ered dish. 

Beef a la Mode. — Fill the opening made by removing the bone 
with a bread stuffing, tie in shape, rub the meat well with chopped 
sweet herbs, stick in' some cloves and boil until tender, allowing 
fifteen minutes to each pound ; then season with pepper and salt, 
thicken the gravy with flour, add cup butter and chopped onions 
and cover pan again until meat is brown ; add a scraped carrot, 
boiled with a little chopped parsley and some tomato catsup. If 
•^^he gravy is too thin add a little more flour and serve poured over 
the meat. Or make a force-meat by mixing together in frying-pan 
over fire two tablespoons butter, one of chopped onion, one level tea- 
spoon each ground thyme, marjoram and savory, teaspoon salt, 
quarter saltspoon pepper, and a pint broken stale bread moistened 
with cold water ; when force-meat is hot fill the place of bone with 
it, or if the meat had no bone, make a large cut and fill with the 
force-meat; lay small pieces of clean cloth over the force-meat on 
aoth sides, put the meat into compact shape, and tie firmly, arrang- 
ing the string to keep the cloth in place over the force-meat. Turn 
a small plate bottom up in a deep pot or saucepan, lay the meat on 
it, and half cover with cold water ; add an onion peeled and stuck 
with cloves, and a level teaspoon each salt and any good table-sauce 
or vinegar, or a glass of cooking wine ; set over the fire, and simmer 
slowly four hours ; then put meat in a dripping-pan, remove the 



410 MEATS. 

string, add the gravy, dust thickly with flour, and brown quickly 
ill very hot oven, Serve on platter with a little gravy poured over 
and the rest in a bowl; serve with a dish of hot boiled or baked po- 
tatoes. The meat is sometimes first browned by putting over the 
lire with slices of porK and turning to brown all sides, sprinkling in 
a tablespoon flour and turning to brown in that also. The pot or 
skillet in which the meat is cooked should be kept closely covered. 
Sliced onions, carrots, turnips and parsnips are often cooked with 
it, first cut into dice and fried, then meat put in, well dredged with 
flour, and browned before adding water and spices in which it is 
cooked. The meat is sometimes simply scored and the incisions 
filled with a bread stuffing, and some prefer steaming or baking to 
boiling. Or the meat may be half roasted after lying in either pickle 
given, then larded Avith mushrooms, and returned to oven to finish, 
basting often. For a more economical dish cut three pounds from 
shoulder into small pieces and roil in flour ; put two tablespoons 
drippings into stewpan with one thinly sliced onion ; when hot put 
in the beef and stir well ; as soon as brow-ned add by degrees two 
quarts boiling water, (stirring all the time), a dozen allspice, two 
bay leaves, half teaspoon pepper-corns and salt; cover closely and 
stew very gently till meat is tender, about three hours ; remove spice 
before serving. A Larded Fillet of Beef is a dish served at almost 
any dinner party, and an excellent and most satisfactory one if 
properly prepared, but it is nothing if not neat, uniform, precise and 
workmanlike in appearance. Procure the 
fillet or tenderloin of beef with the fat on it, 
that is with the coating of suet that covers 
the upper Bide,and shave that down until the _ 

covering of fat is about as thick as beefsteak Larded Fuiet of Beef. 

all over. Then raise the edge of the fat at one side, skinning the 
fillet, and lay the sheet of fat over on the other side without cutting 
ofi". This is to have it attached ready to cover the fillet again after 
larding. Draw point of a sharp knife across and across tbe skin 
inside the fat, to score it so that it will not draw up in cooking ; trim 
off the thin end of the fillet and round off the thick end. Com- 
mence at the thick end with the larding and lard as direct- 
ed in Larding meats, using lardoons an inch and a half long 
and about as thick as a common pencil ; then cover with the 
sheet of fat. Heat a long and narrow baking pan with a tablespoon 
salt and cup drippings in it ; chop into small pieces a few beef or 
veal bones, and cover the bottom of pan with them ; add three 
slices bacon, two carrots, two onions and one turnip, sliced, with a 
pint stock. Season with salt, bruised whole peppers, a bay leaf, a 
few cloves, and a blade of mace. Place the fillet in the pan with 
the larded side up and moisten with four tablespoons vinegar. Have 
the oven hot, put in fillet and roast it with the fat, covering it half 
an hour ; then take off fat, baste the fillet with the contents of pan 




MEATS. 411 

and let cook fifteen minutes longer, by which time the surface 
should be brown, and strips of larding brown too, without being 
burnt at the ends, Unless especially ordered otherwise, the thick 
partcf fillet should cut slightly rare in middle, while the thinner 
portion is well done. Serve with Brown Gravy or mushroom, Hol- 
landaise or tomato sauce, and garnish with potato balls, mushrooms, 
stuffed tomatoes, sliced vegetables in fancy shapes, or onions boiled 
and glazed. 

(the average weight from a very large rump), will suffice for 
ten persons at a dinner where served as one course ; and if a larger 
quantity is wanted a great saving will be made if two small fillets 
are used. They cost about two dollars each, while a large one, 
weighing the same, would cost five dollars. Fillet of Beef in Jelly 
is another elegant dish. For this procure a small fillet, trim and cut 
a deep incision in the side, being careful not to go through to the 
other side or the ends. Fill this with one cup veal, prepared as for 
force-meat, and whites of three hard-boiled eggs, cut into rings. Sew 
up the openings, and bind the fillet into good shape with broad bands 
of cotton cloth. Put in a deep stewpan two slices each ham and 
pork, and place the fillet on them ; then put in two calf's feet, two 
stalks celery and two quarts clear stock ; simmer gently two hours 
and a half; take up the fillet and set away to cool ; strain the stock, 
and set away to harden ; when hard, scrape off every particle of fat, 
and put on the fire in a clean saucepan, with half a slice of onion 
and whites of two eggs, beaten with four tablespoons cold water. 
When this boils season well with salt and setback where it will just 
simmer for half an hour, then strain through a napkin. Pour a lit- 
tle of the jelly into a two-quart charlotte-russe mold (half an inch 
deep), and set on ice to harden ; as soon as hard, decorate with egg 
rings ; add about three spoonfuls of the liquid jelly, to set the eggs ; 
when hard, add enough jelly to cover the eggs, and when this is also 
hard, trim the ends of the fillet, and draw out the thread ; place in 
center of mold, and cover with remainder of jelly. If the fillet floats, 
place a slight weight on it and set in ice chest to harden. When 
ready to serve, place the mold in a pan of warm water for half a 
minute, and then turn out the fillet gently upon a dish. Put here 
and there a sprig of parsley and garnish with a circle of egg rings, 
each of which has a stoned olive in the center. The olives may be 
opened very carefully, the stones removed, and the cavities thus 
made filled in with pounded anchovy. These Stuifed Olives are al- 
so served as "appetizers," and are eaten with a little oil, either at the 
beginning of the meal or with the cheese. Olives are served occas- 
sionally, when quite sweet, and as imported, with a little of the liquor 
in which they are preserved, at dessert, and are also often sent to 
table without removing the stones. 



412' MEATS. 

Broiled Beefsteah. — The tenderloin, porterhouse and sirloin 
steaks are choicest and most expensive, but the flank steak is con- 
sidered a rare bit, and the round and rump steaks are more nutri- 
tious and better flavored. • Have the steak cut about three-fourtha 
of an inch thick; trim ofl" tough outer skin, gristle and bits of suet, 
which will melt and drip into the fire and smoke the meat, but never 
wash a freshly cut steak, wiping with a damp cloth instead, if neces- 
sary. If sure that steak will be tender, do not pound or chop it ; if a 
little tough some i)ound just enough to break the fiber, but it is bet- 
ter to hack with a sharp knife each way, not cutting quite through. 
When thus prepared care must be taken in placing the steak to broil 
to gather it up in compact shape or it will not look well when served. 
Never salt or pepper steak before broiling, for reasons heretofore 
given, but if very lean dip into melted butter. For complete direc- 
tions as to broiling see Broiled Meats. Inexperienced cooks will 
need to try the steak to know when it is done ; make a small clean 
cut in center with sharp knife and if the inside is purple and raw 
looking it must be cooked longer, but if a bright red just verging on 
brown, with nicely browned edges, it is done. Only the mere out- 
side should be browned for a well-broiled steak, which should be 
cooked in from seven to twelve minutes, as wanted rare or well done. 
Some like steak cut from an inch to an inch and a half thick, which 
will require longer cooking. Instead of seasoning by sprinkling 
with pepper and salt and putting bits of butter over the steak, have 
the butter placed on hot platter on which it is to be served, with a 
Jiberal sprinkling of pepper and salt; take the steak up quickly on 
this and press a little, then turn and press again, and it will be found 
nicely seasoned, and much more evenly than in the old way. Send 
to table immediately as hot as possible, for nothing is more tame 
and unsatisfactory than a cold, clammy steak. If it 7nust stand 
while more is broiled set over a kettle of hot water, in the hot closet, 
or open oven, aiming to keep hot and confine the steam and juices 
without placing where it will cook more. Broiled steak may be gar- 
nished with fried sliced potatoes, or browned potato balls the size of 
a marble, piled at each end of platter, with scraped horse-radish or 
slices of cucumber or lemon or sprigs of parsley. Mushroom, oyster, 
tomato, brown onion, drawn batter and other sauces are frequent 
accompaniments to steak, but true lovers of this dish, when properly 
prepared, generally reject all additions but pepper and salt, though 
some like steaks dished on a little catsup or minced onion. A bit 
of onion rubbed over the platter before taking up the steak, gives a 
delicate flavor that is delicious, without any of the offonsiveness the 
onion taste imparts, if used more largely. Some dredge round or 
rump steaks on turning them the last time with a mixture of four 
tablespoons sifted biscuit or rusk crumbs, one tablespoon salt, one 
teaspoon pepper, a saltspoon of either onion-powder, mushroom- 
powder or finely pulverized celery salt, and dish with a little mush- 
room catsup and small piece of butter. 



MEATS. 413 

Fried Beefsteak. — Heat frying-pan very hot, put in steak prepar- 
ed as for broiling but cut rather thinner, brown or gray on both sides 
as quickly as possible to keep in the juice, then cook until done, 
turning several times ; remove to a hot platter, season with salt and 
pepper andbitsofbutter, pile up, cover with a hot platter. Or for Fried 
Beefsteak tvith Oysters, put those from which all bits of shell have 
been carefully removed, over the cooked steak with pieces of butter 
on top and set in hot oven until the edges of oysters begin to curl, 
then serve. A little water may be added to liquor from oysters, 
with a thickening of corn-starch, and seasoning to taste, making a 
sauce which may be served in spoonfuls over the steak and oysters. 
Or put a pint oysters to drain in colander, turning cup water over 
them; put all liquor that drains off' on to heat, and when it boils, 
skim and set back. Fry the steak as above, then take up and stir 
tablespoon flour into the fat in pan until dark brown ; add the oys- 
ter liquor, boil one minute, season with salt and pepper, put the steak 
in, cover and simmer ten or fifteen minutes ; then add the oysters 
and tablespoon lemon juice, boil one minute and serve on hot dish 
with oysters and steak, the gravy poured round, and a garnish of 
croutons. Some like white onions, sliced and fried a golden brown 
in deep, hot fat, laid over steak. Broiled steak may be served same. 

Hamburg Steak. — Cut two pounds round or rump steak into 
small pieces and pass through a chopping machine, or have butcher 
chop very fine, or the meat may be scraped off the fibres with a 
heavy tin or iron spoon. Pepper and salt the meat to taste, mix in 
two tablespoons melted butter, drippings or lard (butter is i^referable) 
form into steaks and fry in a little hot butter or drippings, being 
careful not to cook too much. Any kind of meat can be used for 
this steak if one has a machine to pass it through. A few slices of 
onion may be put into the hot butter and fried with the steak, as 
they remove the taste of the fat, and yet do not leave their own fla- 
vor : take out the onion before serving. For a Hamburg Roll, chop 
round steak fine, season well and shape into a roll ; put in a frying- 
pan a tablespoon or more of butter to each pound meat, when hot 
place the meat in it, cover and cook until as well done as liked. 
Take out meat and make brown gravy by stirring into drippings in 
pan a thickening of flour and water and served poured over the meat. 

Hidden Steaks. — Have two slices of beef, each half an inch 
thick, cut from round. Take two or more porterhouse steaks, from 
one and a half to two inches thick ; remove bones from each, taking 
care not to separate tenderloin from upper part of steak. Butter, 
salt and pepper the steaks on each side ; spread over one slice of the 
round, half a can of mushrooms ; place porterhouse steaks on tlie 
mushrooms, then distribute the rest of the mushrooms over the 
steaks, covering thera with the other slice of beef from the round. 
Bring the edges of the two slices together and sew. Rub vinegar 
and salt over the outside of each slice, which will harden them and 



414 MEATS. 

not only prevent their juices from dropping into the fire when being 
cooked, but force them into the enclosed steaks. Place the meat 
then on a double wire broiler and cook for from ten to fifteen min- 
utes over a bed of hot coals, turning the broiler every minute or two. 
The outside of the slices from the round will be done to a crisp. Be- 
fore serving, draw the thread binding them together, and lift care- 
fully off the upper slice, placing it with the crisp side down on a 
platter. Remove the steaks to a hot dish and spread over them all 
of the mushrooms. Scrape with a spoon the inside of each slice of 
the round, obtaining a quantity of rich juice, which pour over the 
steaks. If a gravy is desired, turn this juice into a saucepan, add a 
portion of the mushrooms, a piece of butter the size of an egg and 
a gill beef stock ; when it boils pour it over the steak. 

Oyster Steaks. — Cut beefsteak into pieces two inches square, or 
about the size of large oysters, single-bread them and fry a nice brown 
by immersing in hot lard as Croquettes. Pork, Veal and Mutton 
may be fried same way. Or they may be dipped in a batter and 
fried as above. 

JSeafsteak Pie. —Cut three pounds rump steak into pieces about 
three inches long and two wide, allowing a small piece of fat to each 
piece of lean, and arrange the meat in la3''ers in a pudding dish. Be- 
tween each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt, pepper, and when 
liked, a small pinch cayenne or some chopped parsley. Fill the 
dish with sufficient meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice 
raised appearance when baked. Pour in enough w^ater to half fill 
the dish, and border it with paste (see pastry) ; brush it over with 
a little water and put on the cover ; slightly press in edges with thumb, 
and trim off close to dish. Ornament pie with leaves, or pieces of 
paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct, brush it over with the 
Roll Glaze, cut a hole in top of crust, and bake in a hot oven for 
about an hour and a half. Or first prepare seasoning of three parts 
salt and one part black pepper, with just a dash of ground nutmeg, 
and season with it enough thin slices of nice tender steak to fill the 
dish, which must be lined with paste ; sprinkle slices with chopped 
parsley and roll up, passing a small wooden skewer or wooden tooth- 
pick through each to hold in place. When dish is full add enough 
water to make a good gravy and lay on top slices ofhard boiled eggs, 
cover with the crust, wash over with beaten eggs and bake in moder- 
ate oven. Should be done when it has baked twenty minutes. For 
another nice pie take slices of beef cut very thin and a few thicker 
pieces out of a loin of pork. Spread slices of beef with potatoes, 
chopped onion and fine herbs ; roll up and tie with thread. Pack 
the meat into dish with parsley between each layer ; pour a little 
gravy over the whole, season liberally and bake under a light crust. 
Beefsteak pies may be flavored with oysters, mushrooms, minced 
onions, etc., and the crust may be made o^ suet instead of lard or 




MEATS. 415 

Stuffed Brisket of Beef. — Wash a brisket of corned beef in cold 
water, cut out bone, spread a bread and onion dressing over it, roll 
it up and tie securely, then roll the beef in a cloth, 
tie the ends of the cloth, and again a few inches 
from each end. Put it into enough boiling water 
to cover and boil gently four hours. Unroll it, stuffed Briskeu of Beef. 
take off strings,wet the cloth in cold water, and roll it again around 
the beef; put the roll between two platters, set a heavy weight on the 
upper one, and press the meat until it is cold. After the meat is 
pressed and cold, the cloth may be removed, and the meat sliced 
and served. This makes a nice dish for luncheon, or for school 
dinners for children. 

Potato Pot. — Slice a quarter pound bacon, cut two pounds 
freshened corned beef in small pieces and put over the fire in frying- 
pan to brown with two sliced onions. Peel and quarter a dozen 
potatoes and when meat and onions are brown put them in deep 
baking dish, in layers with the potatoes. Make a pint gravy by 
adding boiling water and seasonings to the drippings in frying-pan, 
thicken with two teaspoons flour dissolved in a little cold water ; 
pour the gravy over the meat and potatoes, and put them in quick 
oven to bake. They will be done in about an hour, and should be 
served hot ; if sent to table in the same dish in which it is baked, 
a clean dish must be placed under it. 

Baked Heart. — Take the heart of a beef, sheep or veal, wash 
thoroughly, and some soak in warm water or vinegar and water from 
two to four hours to remove all blood ; make the two cells into one 
by cutting through the partition with a long, sharp knife, being 
careful not to cut through to the outside ; fill the cavity with a stufiing 
of bread-crumbs, or veal or other highly seasoned force-meat ; cover 
vv^ith greased paper or cloth to secure stufiing, and bake in a deep 
pan with a few slices salt pork and plenty of water, in a moderate 
oven for two hours or longer, basting and turning often, as the upper 
part particularly is apt to get dry ; dredge with flour and baste as in 
Iloasted Meats the last half hour. While this is roasting, put the 
valves of the heart, or "deaf ears," which must be cut ofi" after wash- 
ing, into a saucepan with a pint of cold water and a sliced onion. 
Let simmer slowly one hour ; melt in saucepan tablespoon butter, 
add a tablespoon flour, then the strained liquor from valves, and 
j^^^??sv serve as gravy. Garnish with baked onions 

^^^^^!^^ and red currant jelly. Some parboil the 

^.^-^^^^Mllil^^C"^ heart before stuffing, which makes it more 

\^^^^^^^^^0Jl^ ^ tender, and it may be simply stuffed with 

^~^ — ss^tiffn.v.;-,' g^g^ ^^^ onion. If to be served cold, soak 

a beef's heart overnight in weak brine and boil three hours be- 
fore stuffing, then put in oven twenty minutes, or just long enough 
to cook the dressing. Serve cold, cut in thin slices. Sheep's and 



416 MEATS. 

Fried Liver. — Cut liver in thin slices, pour boiling hot water 
over and immediately drain off; this seals outside, takes away the 
unpleasant flavor, and makes it much more palatable ; skin and have 
ready in skillet on stove some hot lard or beef drippings, or better, 
half and half; roll the liver in flour (Graham is nice), cracker or 
bread-crumbs, nicely seasoned with pepper and salt, put in skillet, 
placing the tin cover on, fry slowly until both sides are dark-brown, 
when the liver will be thoroughly cooked. The time required is 
about a quarter of an hour. Make a gravy by stirring into the drip- 
pings a tablespoon flour and adding a pint milk. _ Boil up, season 
and serve poured over the liver. Some always single-bread liver. 
Or first throw into the hot drippings a half onion minced fine, if the 
flavor is liked, and one or two sprigs parsley, chopped. Turn the 
liver several times that it may absorb the flavor. When done put 
where it will keep hot and make a sauce in another pan by stirring 
a teaspoon flour into tablespoon hot butter until brown, add cup 
boiling water, stirring well, and pepper, salt, tablespoon vinegar and 
heaping tablespoon capers. Drain the slices of liver from fat and put 
into sauce until ready to serve, when arrange neatly on dish and turn 
the sauce over. For Royal Fried Liver ^ cut two-thirds pound 
calf's liver into slices, and fry half in butter ; then pound in a mor- 
tar, with a few capers, a few gherkins, allspice, and sugar, press 
through a sieve, and add juice of a lemon, and a little pepper, salt, 
and vinegar. Put in hot water or near the fire, but not on it, to keep 
hot. Flour the remaining slices and fry in fresh butter, place on a 
plate, and pour over them the first part, reduced to a thick sauce. 
Will be found delicious. Liver Rolls may be served with the above 
sauce. Fried Liver and Bacon is a dish common at most tables. 
Fry in a pan slices of bacon and keep hot while frying thin slices of 
liver, prepared as in Broiled Liver, in same fat. When done serve 
liver and bacon on same dish, garnished with slices of lemon or 
force-meat balls. Make a gravy by dredging a little flour in pan af- 
ter pouring off some of the fat, adding a fourth pint broth, salt, pep- 
per, tablespoon mushroom catsup and one of finely chopped gher- 
kins or pickled walnuts if liked. Boil and pour round the liver in 
dish. Or serve with tomato sauce. Liver is apt to be dry and hard 
unless first dropped into boiling water, or let stand ten minutes or 
so in warm water. A good way is to steep it in vinegar and water 
half an hour, then cut into thin slices, skin, roll in flour, fry very 
crisp, and serve with fried onions. Some cut bacon and liver into 
small squares, place on skewers alternately, fry by immersing in 
hot fat, or in dripping pan in oven, turning two or three times, 
and serve on moist buttered toast. Sheep's liver should be par- 
boiled before frying. For Minced Liver ^ cut in pieces and fry with 
slices of pork ; then cut both into dice, nearly cover with water, add 
a little lemon-juice and pepper, thicken the gravy with bread-crumbs 
Qr browned flour, and serve. 



MEATS. 417 

Stewed Kidney. — If wanted for breakfast, boil kidneys the night 
before till very tender, turn into a dish with the gravy and cover. In 
the morning, boil for a few moments, thicken with flour and water, 
add part of an onion chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and a lump oi 
butter, and pour over toasted bread well buttered. Or split the 
kidneys and slice them thin on a plate ; dust with flour, pepper and 
salt, brown some flour in butter in a stewpan, mix smooth with a 
little water, put in the sliced kidneys and let them simmer, but not 
boil, until done. Butter slices of toast and pour the stewed kidneys 
over, gravy and all. Or put a small onion, or two heaping table- 
spoons chopped onion, in frying pan with one lieaping tablespoon 
butter and set over fire where butter will simply melt. Cut kidneys 
into pieces one-half inch square, put in pan and fry very quickly 
about five minutes, add heaping tablespoon flour and stir till flour 
browns, then pour in a pint boiling water and half a cup tomato cat 
sup, or two tablespoons of any good table sauce, add a seasoning of salt 
and pepper, stir until all are smoothly blended, let them cook ten 
minutes, and serve the dish at once, garnished with croutons. If the 
fire is hot the kidney ought to be cooked in twenty minutes ; it is 
not necessary to parboil kidney, or to cook it for a long time, and 
the more quickly it is cooked the more tender it will be ; the kidney 
should be quite brown before the flour is put with it, then the gravy 
will be brown. 

Boiled Tongue, — Boil tongue in salted water until it can pierced 
with a fork, peel, place the tongue in saucepan with one cup 
water, half cup vinegar, four tablespoons sugar, and cook till liquid 
is evaporated. Serve garnished with tufts of cauliflower or brussels 
sprouts. The tongue may be trussed while hot in the form of an 
arch, by putting it to press on its side between two dishes with a 
weight on top, and when cool trim it smooth, or with a small, sharp 
^^g" knife carve the surface so as to 

^--lygi^^^k represent leaves. Or place it with 

y^;?-^''''''-'"''^^ the root end against the back of 

' i^^^-f Pif^^^%^ dresser, and put a strong Ibrk in 

v;n^^^^^^^^^^g^fii^^|^ top of tongue ; this will make it as- 
^"sa^^^ ^L ' " /^ fZ^^"^^^^^ sume an erect and nice appearance. 

""""""""" -^^ Let it get quite cold, glaze it, orna- 

ment with a paper rufl'and a vegetable flower, and garnish with aspic 
jelly. If hot serve with spinach. Boiled tongue is nice served with 
Polish Sauce made as follows : Skin the tongue while hot and put 
in another pan with Alices of pork, an onion, sliced carrots, spices 
and calf s foot. Stew till brown, dust with little flour and tbin the 
gravy and sauce with a cup vinegar. Boil a few moments, take out 
tongue, strain sauce and add two ounces each currants and whole 
almonds, blanched, and pour over the tongue. Another way of pre- 
paring is to half boil the tongue and then stew it in a sauce made of 
a little broth, flour, parsley, one small onion, small carrot, ealt and 
'27 



418 MEATS. 

pepper and one can tomatoes, cooked and strained. Dish the tongue 
and strain the sauce over it. Or pour over the tongue a sauce made 
of a can of tomatoes half boiled down, salted, and thickened with a 
tablespoon butter and teaspoon flour rubbed together. Fried Tongue 
is very nice ; first boil, then cut into slices and fry in hot butter with 
with a little minced onion, and serve with a Pickle Sauce made as 
follows ; Put a teaspoon flour in pan in which tongue was fried 
and when brown add cup hot water; strain, season with salt and 
add a tablespoon any chopped pickles — piccalilli is best, but pickled 
cucumbers may be used by chopping and mixing with a little mus- 
tard. Soak the slices of tongue in this till ready to serve, when ar- 
ranged on a platter overlapping one another and pour the sauce 
over. Or braise the slices of tongue and serve with a little spinach 
on each, or with a mayonnaise or tartare sauce. 

Pickled Tongue. — Procure ten small tongues, wash in cold water 
and put to cook in boiling water with a sliced lemon, tablespoon 
salt and teaspoon whole cloves and pepper-corns ; keep covered with 
boiling water, and boil gently until tender, which will be in half or 
three-quarters of an hour. When tongues are done take them up, trim 
them, remove the skin and pack in glass jars, with a tablespoon 
each whole cloves and pepper-corns, and a blade of mace ; cover 
with cold vinegar, and let stand overnight before using, or longer if 
desired. In cool weather they will keep several weeks if kept close- 
ly covered. Any tongue may be pickled same. The remains of 
pickled tongues are very nice chopped, placed in a pan and pressed 
when they will turn out resembling collared meat. A little thick 
jelly may be poured into the pan with them. Slices of cold tongue 
may be warmed in any kind of savory sauce and laid in a pile in 
center of a dish, the sauce being poured over them. 

Tongue in Jelly — Boil and skin either a fresh or salted tongue ; 
when cold trim off the roots. Have one and a fourth quarts aspic 
jelly in liquid state. Cover bottom of two-quart mold about an inch 
deep with it, and let harden. Cut out leaves from cooked beets with 
a fancy vegetable cutter, and garnish bottom of mold with them ; 
gently pour in three tablespoons jelly, to set the beets. When hard 
add jelly enough to cover the vegetables, and 
let the whole get very hard. Then put in the 
tongue, and about half a cup jelly, which should 
^^^^^^^^ be allowed to harden and so keep the meat in 
Large Mold placB whcu thc remainder is added. Pour in 

the remainder of the jelly and set away to harden. When ready to 
serve, dip the mould for a few moments in pan of warm water, and 
gently turn on to a dish. Rings of the white of boiled eggs may be 
used with or in place of the cooked beets. Garnish with pickles and 
parsley; pickled beets is especially nice. For Lambs' Tongues in 
Jelly, prepare the same as beef tongues. Three or four molds, each 
'iolding a little less than a pint, will make enough for a small com- 




MEATS. 419 

pany, one tongue being put in each mold. The tongues can all be 
put on the same dish, or on two, if table is long. Or boil a beef 's 
tongue and let it get cold. For the jelly mix pint liquor in which 
tongue was boiled with cup brown veal gravy, three tablespoons 
vinegar, one of sugar and one of Caramel Coloring ; add two ounces 
gelatine dissolved in half pint water, mix well, pour over all a pint 
boiling water and strain through flannel. Let the jelly cool until 
it begins to thicken, then cut the tongue in slices as for table, put a 
little jelly in bottom of wet mold, then a layer of tongue, more jelly 
and so on until mold is full and finished as above; serve garnished 
with sprigs of celery or nasturtium flowers. 

Broiled Tripe. — Cut honey-combed tripe into pieces of three or 
four inches wide ; rub a little oil or melted butter over them, roll in 
flour, and broil over a charcoal or wood fire, squeeze a little lemon 
juice over each piece and serve. Never broil tripe over a hard-coal 
fire, the gasses arising from the coal spoil the flavor of the tripe, 
making it indigestible and unpalatable. 

Fricasseed Tripe. — Cut the tripe into square pieces and put in 
stewpan with a blade of mace, bouquet of herbs, an onion quartered, 
salt and cayenne. Cover with water and a little vinegar and stew 
one hour. Strain the sauce and put tripe and sauce in a clean 
saucepan, with a tablespoon of butter rolled in flour, gill cream and 
tablespoon chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, squeeze in juice 
of a lemon, and serve. Or cut in nairow strips, add water or milk, 
tablespoon butter mixed with one of flour, season with pepper and 
a little salt, simmer slowly for some time and serve hot, garnished 
with parsley. 

Braised Loin of Lamb. — Bone the loin and line bottom of a stew- 
pan just large enough to hold it with a few thin slices of bacon, add 
vegetables and braise as above. When done take up the meat, dry 
it and place where it will keep hot. Strain and reduce the gravy to 
a glaze, with which glaze the meat and serve it on stewed pease, or 
spinach or stewed cucumbers. Braised Shoulder of Lamb is nice if 
first larded with strips of fat bacon, highly seasoned with pepper, 
salt and chopped parsley (see direction for larding) ; then roll the 
meat round, tie it up and put in stewpan with a quarter pound but- 
ter, over a slow fire, stirring occasionally until a light golden color; 
pour in a quart water or broth, add two dozen small onions and a 
bunch of parsley, and simmer very slowly until the onions are quite 
tender ; take up the meat, pull off the string, and place it on a dish 
with the onions round ; take the parsley out, carefully skim 
off fat, and boil the liquid until a thinnish glaze, which pour over 
the meat and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before 
sending to table, if liked. The cavitiy from which the bone is re- 
moved may be filled with force-meat, if preferred, instead of rolling 
and binding the meat. Braised Mutton, is cooked as any of the above. 

Grilled Lamb. — Boil the loin half an hour, then take out and 
score, brush over with beaten yolks of eggs and sprinkle well with 



420 



MEATS. 



bread-crumbs seasoned with chopped parsley ; put in dripping-pan 
and place in oven until brown ; serve hot with melted butter and 
lemon pickle, or tomato sauce, or cold with the sauce. A breast 
may be done same, and Grilled Mutton is also prepared in same 
manner. 

Roast Lamh. — The loin, forequarter and leg are all very nice 
roasted. Prepare and roast as directed in Roasted Meats, a medium 
sized forequarter requiring about two hours. Lamb must be basted 
constantly and thoroughly cooked without being dried up. Some 
brush clarified butter over the joint, then sprinkle with bread-crumbs 
seasoned with pepper, salt and a little minced parsley, and cover 
with slices of bacon, held in place by skewers. When nearly done 
remove bacon and baste with beaten yolk of egg mixed with gravy, 
sprinkle over more crumbs and let brown. If liked, squeeze juice of 
a lemon over and serve with mint sauce. For a nice Roast Leg of 
Lamb, run a sharp, thin-bladed knife between the skin and flesh 
where the leg is thickest in such a manner as to form a pouch, and 
into this put the flesh of a small red herring, and a small clove of 
garlic, highly seasoned with pepper and pounded to a paste, forcing 
it as far as possible under the skin, then roast as in general directions 
Or the bone may be removed and the cavity filled with a common 
veal stuffing or any bread dressing or force-meat liked. Tomatoes 
are sometimes baked in the pan with lamb and served with it. A 
Roast Saddle of Lamh is a very dainty dish for a small party. Put 
in dripping-pan, with a few small pieces of butter on the meat, and 
baste occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat ; season with salt and pep- 
per and dredge a little flour over it a few minutes before taking from 
the oven. Serve with currant jelly, and send to table with early 
vegetables. A mild mint sauce may be served with the joint. Pota- 
to balls, seasoned with nutmeg and chopped parsley, single-breaded 
and fried, make a nice garnish for the roast, surrounding with them, 
with a drawn butter sauce poured over the meat. Pease, spinach and 
cauliflower are served with roast lamb, also fresh salads. Another 
nice roast is called Carhonade of Lamb. For this select a loir 
weighing three pounds or more and have butcher skin and take ou^ 
bone, keeping bone for use in pan or to boil for broth. Make t 
force-meat of a slice of bread soaked in cold water and squeezed dry, 
level teaspoon any powdered sweet herb, thyme, marjoram or sum- 
mer savory, saltspoon salt, pinch of pepper, tablespoon butter, or 
raw egg, and a little chopped onion if liked ; mix well together and 
place in bone cavity and sew up. Roast in Dutch oven or bake in 
ordinary oven. When brown on one side turn to brown the other, 
then season, dredge with dry flour and baste every ten or fifteen 
minutes. For gravy, mix a tablespoon flour with drippings in pan, 
let brown and turn in slowly a pint water, seasoning to taste. Some 
cooks serve roast lamb rather rare, or well done on the outside and 
pink within ; it should be served steaming hot with a caper, pickle, 



MEATS. 421 

or mint sauce. If carved through the center it may be nicely served 
again next day by stuffing the cut-out space with boiled mashed 
potatoes, smoothing evenly around, and placing long enough in oven 
to become thoroughly hot. Lamb is sometimes roastexl entirely 
whole, simply skinned, the entrails removed and feet cut off. It should 
be not more than six weeks or two months old, when the bones cut 
like gristle and the meat is singularly delicate. It may be stuffed 
with bread dressing and sweet herbs and served with bread sauce, 
but is more frequently eaten Avith lemon juice. When the lamb is 
older, to roast whole, bone from the neck to the shoulders, skewer 
the legs to the body, and cover with slices of bacon, which may be 
tied or skewered on, but must be removed when meat is nearly done 
that it may be basted and browned nicely. Boast Mutton may be 
prepared in any of above ways. 

Stewed Lainb. — Cut the neck or breast in pieces and put it in a 
stewpan with salt pork or bacon sliced thin, and enough water or 
stock to cover ; cover closely and stew until meat is tender, then 
skim well, add a quart green shelled peas, and more hot water or 
stock if necessary ; cover till peas are tender, then add a bit of but- 
ter rolled in flour, and pepper to taste ; simmer a few minutes and 
serve. For another nice Steio with Green Peas, leave the breast of 
lamb whole, simply removing the skin ; put the breast in pan of hot 
water and leave five minutes, line bottom of stewpan with thin slices 
of bacon, put in the lamb and lay on it a lemon cut in slices, to keep 
meat white and make it tender ; cover with one. or tAvo slices of 
bacon, add a half pint white stock, an onion and a bunch savory 
herbs. Stew gently over slow fire until tender, and serve on a bed 
of green peas, cooked separately. The lamb may be glazed and 
spinach substituted for peas if preferred, or it may be served on _a 
bed of stewed mushrooms. Or first fry either the breast or leg in 
butter or drippings until a nice brown, and add water or stock to 
cover with seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer three-quarters of 
an hour and add ahalf peck green peas. Cook until peas are done, 
dust in a very little flour and serve hot with peas as a border. For 
Stewed Lamb with Tomatoes, saw the breast or brisket lengthwise 
through the bones ; then skin, divide in pieces, wash and put to stew 
in water or broth to cover, cut carrots, turnips and onions (enough 
to fill a cup) in dice, and boil in water separately; pour off water 
when they are half done and put them in the stew with a cup cut 
tomatoes. Boil half an hour longer, thicken slightly if necessary, 
season with pepper and salt and last add a tablespoon chopped pars- 
ley. In dishing up take up two pieces of meat for each dish and 
place in middle of individual flat platter with vegetables and 
sauce or gravy from stew at each end. Stewed Lamb with As- 
paragus is also nice. Remove skin and part of fat from the breast 
or shoulder and cut it into neat pieces ; dredge a little flour over and 
place in stewpan with tablespoon butter and fry till nicely browned; 



422 MEATS. 

then cover with warm water, add a bunch parsley, two button onions 
and simmer until meat is done ; skim off tat, take out onions and 
parsley, mince the latter finely, return it to the gravy with a pint of 
of boiled asparagus tops, add salt and pepper, simmer a few minutes 
longer and serve. Canned asparagus may be used. A plain stew 
of lamb is nice, first fried as above, cooked without vegetables, and 
served with its own gravy poured over, flavored with four tablespoons 
tomato catsup, or served with mint sauce. "When the leg or shoul- 
der is stewed the bone may be removed and the cavity stuffed with 
any force-meat preferred. The loin may be stewed whole or in 
steaks ; when stewed whole secure the flap with a skewer. Stewed 
Mutton is prepared in any of above ways. 

Lamb Chops. — Trim off the fat from a loin of lamb, cut into chops 
about three-fourths inch in thickness, and for Broiled Lamb Chops 
proceed as directed in. Broiled Meats, remembering that they require 
little cooking and must be done very quickly. Season with pepper and 
salt and serve immediately, very hot, garnished with crisped parsley ; 
or dish them in a circle round green pease or a mound of mashed po- 
tatoes. Asparagus, spinach, cauliflower and beans are also served 
with lamb or mutton chops, and stuffed baked 
tomatoes are nice with them. When chops are cut 
^_^^^^^^ from the loin as above,some like to have the kidney 
L^^^oi^ retained in its place. When chops are made 

from breast the red bone at the edge should be cut off, and the breast 
parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three 
onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting 
between every second or third bone. Many prefer to single-bread 
lamb chops before broiling, and after dipping in egg some season 
with pejjper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and chopped parsley. 
For Fried Lanib Chops^ choose cutlets or chops about half an 
inch thick and fry in a mixture of butter and currant jelly, half and 
half — two tablespoons of each to four cutlets — turning to brown 
both sides. Season highly with salt and pepper and serve on hot 
platter with the gravy from pan poured over. Or fry plainly by 
putting in hot frying-pan, turning quickly to brown both sides and 
keep in the juices, then fry until done. Season just before taking 
up and serve on hot dish with a gravy made in pan, flavored with 
mushroom or tomato catsup, poured over. Or double-bread them 
and fry, though some only smgle-bread cutlets, adding to the sifted 
crumbs a seasoning of pepper and salt and a little chopped parsley 
or onion and grated lemon peel and pounded mace, if liked. Or first 
sear them quickly on each side in frying-pan, then single-bread and 
fry or broil. They may be fried in little butter or drippings, but are 
much nicer if dropped into hot fat. Some do not use egginoreading cut- 
lets but dip them into melted butter or kettle of fat, and roll in crumbs, 
then fry as Fritters. Dish as Broiled Chops, and serve with clear 
red ourrautjelly or mushroom, onion or tomato aouoe. Fried toona- 




MEATS. 423 

Boiled Mutton. — Mutton can be cooked like any of the preced- 
ing recipes for lamb, and the latter can also be cooked like any of 
the following recipes for mutton. The leg and shoulder are most 
used for boiling. To prepare Boiled Leg of Mutton cut off the shank 
bone, trim the knuckle, wash well and be sure to remove the thin 
outside skin. The oil of the wool penetrates through the pores of 
the skin, and from this comes that strong, wooly taste, rendering 
mutton so objectionable. Then, if wanted plainly boiled, cook as 
directed in Boiled Meats, letting the water boil down to gravy. A 
leg weighing eight or nine pounds will cook in an hour and a quar- 
ter, if wanted very rare, allowing five minutes for every addititional 
pound. Two hours or more will be required to cook it well done. 
Serve with caper, cucumber or mint sauce, or currant jelly. Some 
first soak the leg an hour or two in salted water, then wipe dry, wrap 
the flank nicely around, securing it with skewers, and boil in a floured 
cloth. The greatest care must be exercised that the mutton does not 
cook too rapidly after first plunging in boiling water, after which it 
must only simmer gently till done. Carrots and mashed turnips 
may be served with this dish, and may be boiled with the meat. 
Very young turnips may be boiled whole and used as a garnish. 
Mashed potatoes and greens are also served with it and boiled rice 
or hominy are liked with it by some. The liquor the joint is boiled 
in should be made into soup. The leg may be boned and stuffed with 
any dressing preferred, then cooked as above. Or parboil some nice 
plump oysters, take of beards and add to them some parsley, minced 
onion and sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine and the yolks of 
two or three hard-boiled eggs. Mix all together, and cut five or six 
holes in fleshy part of a leg of mutton, and put in the mixture. Tie 
in a cloth and boil as above, or braise it and serve with any sauce 
liked. Boiled Shoulder of Mutton, considered by many superior to 
the leg, may be cooked after any of the above methods. For Boiled 
Breast of 3futton, cut all superfluous fat from the breast, bone it, 
sprinkle over a layer of bread-crumbs, minced herbs and seasoning; 
roll, bind firmly with tape, and cook and serve as above, removing 
tape when dished. Boiled Neck of Mutton is a very good dish when 
carefully prepared, though generally used for soup. It may be 
plainly boiled W'ith carrots and turnips and garnished with 
them, or boiled slowly until tender, then take out, cover with sifted 
bread-crumbs, well seasoned and moistened with milk and the yolk 
of an egg, flavored with finely chopped sweet herbs, and set in oven 
to brown nicely. Serve with either of above sauces and accompan- 
ments. The breast may be dressed in same manner, adding chopped 
mushrooms to dressing if liked. Boiled Lamb is prepared in the 
same way, generally serving with mint sauce. 

Boned Mutton. — Cut off all fat from leg of mutton, take the 
bone out carefully, and preserve the skin whole ; take out meat and 
mince it fine, and mix with it about one pound minced fat bacon 



424 



MEATS. 



and some parsley ; season the whole well with pepper and salt, and 
a small quantity of onions chopped fine; then put meat into skin 
and sew it up neatly on under side ; tie it up in a cloth and put it 
into stewpan with two or three slices of veal, some sliced carrots and 
onions, a bunch of parsley, and a few slices of fat bacon ; let it stew 
for three or four hours, and drain the liquor through a fine sieve ; 
when reduced to a glaze, cover the mutton with it and serve upon a 
bed of rice. 

Curried Glutton. — Put breast of Mutton in stewpan with two 
quarts water, season and simmer slowly an hour and a half. Cut 
an onion in slices and brown nicely in butter, add teaspoon curry 
powder and little salt. Take meat out of broth, stir curry through, 
put meat back and stew an hour longer. Dish and pour gravy over. 
Roast Mutton. — The leg, saddle, loin and shoulder are the best 
pieces for roasting. Have the butcher trim nicely, prepare as for 
Boiled Mutton, and to roast, plainly follow directions given in Roast- 
ed Meats. Some cover the joint with buttered paper, which is taken 
off about twenty minutes before roast is done to baste, dredge and 
brown the meat. Serve with its own gravy and red currant jelly and 
mashed potatoes, or with onion sauce or stewed onions. If there is 
a large flap to loin put in some of the dressing and skewer securely, 

then bake and serve as above. Some 
roast a Saddle of Glutton as Venison 
in a coarse paste, taking off to baste 
and brown a few minutes before 
done. Or roast plainly as above. 
Garnish with litttle piles of potato 
balls and tufts of lettuce or any 
green leaves. Some cooks roast the 
neck, cutting the bones off short and trimming nicely. For Boast 
Leg of Mutton, take the flank off, but leave all the fat, cut out the 
bone, stuff with a rich force meat, lard the top and sides with bacon 
and put it in a pan with a little Avater, some chopped onion and cel- 
ery cut small, a gill of mushroom catsup and teaspoon curry pow- 
der; roast and serve as above with the gravy, garnished with force- 
meat balls, fried. For Boast Shoulder of Mutton, hdve the shoulder 
boned and fill cavity with a nice bread dressing or forre-meat. 
Then roll, tie loosely, giving the dressing room to swell, place in 
oven in pan with little butter, baste often, turn occasionally to 
brown evenly and serve with its own gravy and any of the above 
garnishes. To finish any roast verv handsomely, brush over with 
glaze, following directions given for Glaze in Gravies. 

Rolled Mutton. — Cover the meat with cold water and when it 
begins to boil draw to back of stove and simmer three hours. Then 
take up, bone it and spread with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, pars- 
ley, thyme, chopped suet, salt and pepper ; double or roll it, skew- 




Saddle of Mutton. 



MEATS. 425 

ering to keep in place, coat thickly with beaten egg and bread- 
crumbs and bake on a trivet in moderate oven, basting often with 
drippings or butter, until nicely browned. Serve on a bed of spin- 
ach or stewed onions. Equal to most tender joint of lamb. 

Stewed Mutton. — The breast, neck and shoulder pieces are most 
used for stewing. For an Irish Stew procure three pounds neck of 
mutton and cut in neat pieces. Put about half the fat in stewpan, 
with four sliced onions, and stir ior eight or ten minutes- over a hot 
fire ; then put in the meat, which sprinkle with flour, salt and 
pepper. Stir ten minutes, add two quarts boiling water, and simmer 
one hour ; then add six large potatoes, peeled, and cut in quarters, 
simmer an hour longer, and serve. Cook dumplings with this dish, 
if liked. They are a great addition to all kinds of stews and ragouts. 
Or the meat may be cut into small pieces and put in stewpan in 
layers with the sliced onions and potatoes, with salt and pepper 
sprinkled between the layers, and vegetables on top. Cover closely 
and stew gently an hour or more, being careful that it does not 
burn. For Stewed Breast of Mutton take a rather lean breast cut in 
pieces about two inches square, put into stewpan with a little fat or 
butter, and fry a nice brown ; then dredge in a little flour, slice two 
onions,and put with bunch of herbs in the stewpan ; pour in sufficient 
water to just cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until 
mutton is tender. Take out meat, strain and skim off all fat from 
gravy, and put both meat and gravy back in stewpan ; add about a 
quart young green pease, and let boil gently until done. Two or three 
slices of bacon stewed with the mutton give additional flavor ; and 
to ensure the pease being a beautiful green color, they may be boiled 
in water separately, and added to the stew at the moment of serving. 
String beans or boiled macaroni may be substituted for the pease. 
For Stewed Shoulder of Mutton, first parboil, then put it in stewpan 
with two quarts mutton gravy, quarter pound rice, teaspoon mush- 
room powder, with a little pounded mace, and stew till the rice is 
tender ; take up mutton and keep hot ; add to the rice half pint 
cream and piece of butter rolled in flour ; stir it well round the pan, 
and boil a i^ew minutes ; lay mutton in dish, and pour the rice over 
it. For Stewed Loin of Mutton, remove the skin, bone and roll it, 
and stew with a little broth or water, adding any vegetables or 
seasoning liked. Some sprinkle the loin with a mixture of half tea- 
spoon pepper, quarter teaspoon each ground allspice, mace and nut- 
meg and six cloves, and let it stand a day then roll ; or it may be 
spread with a veal or other force-meat, then rolled. Some prefer to 
half bake it in the oven, then take out and finish cooking in stewpan 
in its own gravy. Flavor with two tablespoons mushroom catsup 
and serve with red currant jelly. Stewed Leg of Mutton is a dish 
liked by many. Procure a tendei leg, take off outside fat and skin 
and lard leg Avith pieces of fat pork. Put the leg in saucepan with 
some small onions and two yellow turnips, sliced, one bay leaf, a 




426 MEATS. 

calf's foot cut in two, and a pint good beef broth ; let all cook to- 
gether until gravy will jelly. In another saucepan put two table- 
spoons beef drippings, brown the stewed onions and turnips in this, 
thicken with flour, and add rest of mutton broth. Put in a little 
vinegar and lemon peel, and let all cook well ; strain through a 
sieve ;_ cut six pickled cucumbers through sauce and cook. Put the 
meat in sauce and cook all together a few moments. Pour the gravy 
over the meat and serve hot. 

Mutton Chops. — The best chops are taken from the loin, but 
those from the ribs are also excellent. Cuts from the fillet, the cen- 
ter cut of the hind leg, are called cutlets or steaks, while those from 
the shoulder are known as shoulder steaks. All may be prepared 
and cooked as follows : Take off the skin and trim them neatly, 
removing a part of the fat, and broil as directed in Broiled Meats, 
either plainly or breaded. If on a gridiron or flat broiler must be 
turned often. The bread-crumbs should be salted and peppered and 
may be seasoned with any chopped or powdered herbs liked; a 

^ ~ " sprinkling of grated lemon peel or powdered mace 

sm^^ssmi Sives a flavor liked by many. Serve with a bit of 
^^^ ^ butter on each, neatly arranged in a circle around 

Mutton Chops. _ a mound of mashed potatoes, with currant jelly, or 
mushroom, onion or tomato sauce. Some first half fry or stew the 
chops, with any seasoning liked, and when cool bread them and 
finish by broiling, either plainly, or by wrapping them in buttered 
paper. They are very nice fried with minced herbs and mushrooms, 
then broiled. Serve with a tablespoon red currant jelly, mushroom 
catsup or any suitable sauce on each. Instead of broiling after 
covering with the seasoning and bread-crumbs, when chops are first 
half fried, some put them in the buttered paper and finish by setting 
in the oven in dripping pan until done. 

Masked Mutton Chops. — Trim ofi" all the fat from five chops 
from the back _ rib and leave a half inch of the bone of each bare at 
the top. Put in frying-pan and slice over them a carrot, turnip, 
onion and some celery, sprinkling with pepper and salt. Pour over 
all a gill of stock and cook twenty minutes over slow fire, turning 
thecutlets that they may cook through evenly. While cooking, rub 
a pint mashed potato through a sieve and put in a saucepan, drop 
in yolks of two eggs, and stir over the fire until Avell mixed. When. 
chops are ready, roll each in potatoes so prepared and flattened with 
a knife upon a mixing-board to a quarter of an inch thick, leaving 
the bone bare as a handle. Place all upon a lightly greased baking- 
tin, brush over with a little milk or egg, and brown in very quick 
oven. While they are browning, heat a tablespoon butter, and add 
half tablespoon flour ; when smooth add one and one-half gills cold 
■water and stir all until boiling. Add half tablespoon each catsup, 
Worcestershire sauce and six drops caramel and cook two minutes. 



MEATS. 427 

Arrange them in a circle upon a hot platter with a pint boiled green 
pease in center, and strain the brown sauce around the whole. In 
preparing the potato, a little flour should be sprinkled over the 
board to prevent sticking. If the oven should not be hot enough to 
brown the chops quickly, hold a hot salamander or fire shovel over 
them, as leaving them long in the oven dries out the potatoes and so 
spoils the dish. 

Mutton au Court Bouillon. — Procure a neatly trimmed leg of 
mutton and put in stewpan with boiling water to cover. Tie in a 
cloth an onion, a turnip, bunch of sweet herbs, four or five cloves 
and some whole allspice, and put in with mutton. Let boil up, skim 
carefully, cover and place where it will simmer three hours. Then 
stir in three tablespoons flour, mixed smooth in cup cold water, add 
tablespoon salt and pinch cayenne and cook an hour longer. 
Meantime make a pint and a half vealor mutton force-meat, shape 
into small balls and fry brown, and boil six eggs hard. When mut- 
ton is done take it up, skim fat from gravy and remove bag of 
seasoning. Set stewpan where it will boil and prepare thickening 
by stirring two tablespoons flour into two tablespoons butter made 
hot in frying pan ; cook until dark brown but do not scorch, and stir 
into the boiling liquid in stewpan ; add more seasoning if liked. 
Chop whites and yolks of eggs separately; pour gravy over the lamb 
and garnish with the chopped eggs, putting the whites in a little 
mound, topping them with some of the yolks, placing remainder of 
yolks over the lamb : arrange the meat balls in groups around the 
dish, decorate with parsley and serve. Leg of Lamb may be pre- 
pared same. 

Roast Pork. — The choicest roasting piece is the loin, between 
the hind legs and ribs ; next come the upper rib cuts, then spare- 
ribs, or ribs next shoulder. If a nice spare-rib roast is wanted it 
should be ordered with all the meat left on which is usually cut off 
for steaks. For a plain roast, follow directions for Roasted Meats, 
roasting slowly at first, and allow fully half an hour to the pound, 
as pork must be well done. Serve with a gravy made in baking pan 
after pouring off top of drippings. Fried apples are nice with roast 
j)ork, or any tart sauce, and turnips or fried cabbage are excellent 
accompaniments. For a very nice Roast Loin of Pork, choose a 
small loin, separate each joint with a chopper and make an incision 
with a knife in the thick part into which put a stuffing made by 
mixing three tablespoons bread-crumbs with a finely chopped onion, 
half teaspoon chopped sage, pepper, salt, and tablespoon chopped 
suet or drippings ; when thoroughly mixed, press into the incision and 
sew edges of the meat together with needle and thread, to confine the 



428 MEATS. 

stuffing. Grease a sheet of kitchen paper well with drippings, place 
the loin in this, securing it with a wrapping of twine, and put to 
bake in a dry baking pan, in a brisk oven, basting immediately and 
constantly as the fat is drawn out. Allow twenty minutes to the 
pound and twenty minutes longer. Serve with apple sauce or apple- 
fritters. It is not necessary to put in greased paper, but the skin if 
left on should be scored across one way at regular intervals or each 
way in small squares. Instead of opening and stuffing the loin the 
dressing may be baked separately or put in the pan with the pork a 
half hour before done. Some rub the loin over with salad oil or 
butter to make it brown and crisp without blistering, before putting 
in oven. Always serve with it a gravy made in pan, and any other 
sauce or accompaniments liked. Or the loin may be steamed or 
boiled until nearly done ; then remove skin, coat well with yolk of 
egg and bread-crumbs and put in oven for about fifteen minutes or 
until nicely browned and thoroughly done. Roast Tenderloin is 
cooked ajid served the same. Roast Leg of Pork may be prepared 

and served same as loin, making the 
incision for the dressing just below 
the knuckle. Or first parboil the leg 
and take off skin. Make a stuffing 
of two tablespoons finely minced 
EoaetLegofPor.. o^iou, half a choppcd applc eight 

tablespoons bread-crumbs, hall a 
dozen chopped sage leaves, tablespoon butter, and a little pepper 
and salt ; bind all together with yolk of an egg ; make a slit in the 
knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and sew ; put in the oven and baste 
often. Half an hour before taken up, sprinkle over a savory powder 
made of two tablespoons bread-crumbs mixed with one tablespoon 
powdered sage, and a little pepper and salt. Do not baste the meat 
after the powder is put on. Serve v/ith good brown gravy and apple 
sauce. Almost equal to roast goose. For Roast Spare-rib^ trim off 
the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the middle, rub witii 
salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuff with either of the above 
dressings, sew up tightly, place in dripping-pan with pint of water, 
and baste frequently, turning over once so as to bake both sides 
equally until a rich brown. Some dredge with flour and powdered 
sage when basting, and spare-rib is as often roasted without the 
dressing as with it. Serve with appl« sauce, mashed potatoes and 
greens, or other vegetables. Potatoes are often peeled and baked in 
the pan with the pork. Or steam or boil the ribs until nearly done ; 
then take up, lay in dripping-pan with inside of ribs up and fill with 
either dressing given above, making very moist — as soft as for bread 
pudding ; bake half an hour. The griskin or back piece is some- 
times roasted, and as it is apt to be dry it is well to flour it when 
put in the oven and dredge with flour at every basting to keep in 
the juices. Sprinkle powdered sage over before taking up. The 




MEATS, 429 

Pork Chops. — Chops are cut from the loin and ribs, the cuts 
from the leg and shoulder being known as steaks. For Broiled 
Pork Chojjs, broil as directed in Broiled Meats, cooking until thor- 
oughly well done and serve plainly, seasoned with salt and pepper. 
or wdth tomato or any sauce preferred. Robert Sauce is nice with 
pork chops as well as beefsteak. For this fry three tablesjioons 
chopped onion a pale yellow in one tablespoon butter, add two table- 
spoons epiced vinegar, and reduce one-half by quick boiling; add 
half pint brown gravy, and boil slowly fifteen minutes ; season with 
saltspoon salt, quarter saltspoon pepper, two teaspoons French mus- 
tard, and serve poured over the chops, dished in a circle. Or first 
single-bread the chops, or roll in melted butter and bread crumbs, 
seasoned with sage, broil and serve as above. Or they may be 
dished round a center of boiled rice or mashed potato. Fried Chops 
are cooked in hot frying pan until nicely browned and thoroughly 
done on both sides, Then serve like broiled chops, or add a little hot 
water to the gravy in the pan, a tablespoon butter rolled in flour, 
pepper, salt, sugar and half cup juice from canned tomatoes; stew 
five minutes and pour over the chops. Or simply sprinkle over 
them a little finely minced onion, powdered sage and pepper and salt. 
Or melt two ounces butter in a saucepan, and stir into it a teaspoon 
each chopped parsley, sage and shallot : fry a few minutes, add a 
little salt and pepper and two well-beaten eggs. Dip chops first 
into this, then in sifted bread-crumbs, let stand ten minutes, fry in 
little melted butter and serve with a brown gravy poured over. For 
Pork Chops ivith Apples, put in frying pan, scatter a little sage and 
pepper and salt over; cook thoroughly ; if fat enough so that there 
is plenty of gravy, fry sliced apples in that ; if not, add a lump but- 
ter ; brown the apples and serve over the pork. Some marinade 
chops four hours in oil with an onion in slices, parsley, bay-leaf, 
pepper and salt and fry in the marinade, serving with tomato sauce. 
This is a delicious breakfast dish. 

Pork Pudding. — One cup finely chopped salt pork, two cups 
each brown sugar and sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder 
four cups flour, two cups raisins, teaspoon each clovf s and cinna- 
mon, half teaspoon ginger, half a grated nutmeg. Putin buttered 
mold and steam or boil four hours. Serve with sour sauce. This 
makes a large pudding, but will keep a week, and put in steamer 
and reheated is as good as when fresh. ^ 

Pork Tenderloin. — Split open and broil till very brown and 
well done : season with pepper, salt and powdered sage. Or split in 
half, but do not separate entirely ; fill with well seasoned oysters, 
sew up and broil thoroughly, Season with salt and pepper bc'fore 
serving. Or split the tenderloin and fry in frying pan in little but- 
ter; mix some chopped pickles with the gravy and pour it over 
them. 




430 MEATS. 

PorK und Beans. — Put the beans to soak in milk-warm water 
and parboil the pork an hour before putting in the beans, first scald- 
ing and scraping the rind ; when the beans have boiled up once pour 
oft" the water and add fresh ; a sliced onion may be boiled with them 
if liked ; boil until beans are quite tender, adding more water if 
necessary to prevent scorching ; put in bak- 
ing dish with tablespoon molasses, score the 
pork and sink it in center, add a little water 
in which beans were boiled and brown in 
oven one hour. Corned beefmay be used in- 
stead of pork. This is a very excellent dish, 
but not so nice as the baked beans. The cut 
represents the old-fashioned Dutch oven, an 
iron kettle with a heavy tight-fitting iron lid. 
The oven is lowered into the ground level with the top and the lid 
covered with live coals. There is no oven wliich bakes pork and 
beans and imparts the same delicious flavor. It is also nice for bak- 
ing brown and corn bread, and may be placed in the stove instead of 
the ground. 

Pigh Feet. — Take the fore feet, cut off the hocks, clean and 
scrape them well ; place two feet together and roll them up tightly 
in common muslin ; tie or sew them so that they will keep in perfect 
shape, and boil them seven hours on a moderate fire — they will 
then be very soft ; lift out carefully and let cool ; then remove the 
muslin and they will be found like jelly. Serve with vinegar, or split 
and roll in bread-crumbs or cracker dust, and fry or broil them. 
Serve with a littk tart sauce. Leave them in the cloths until ready 
to chop. Some boil them only until tender, not wrapping in cloth, 
then split in halves, take out all large bones and fry or broil. Or 
put the feet into a stewpan with the liver, heart, a thin slice of bacon, 
an onion, blade of mace, six pepper-corns, three or four sprigs thyme, 
pint gravy, pepper and salt to taste, and simmer gently fifteen min- 
utes ; then take out heart and liver, and mince very fine ; stew the 
feet till quite tender, which will be in from twenty minutes to half 
an hour, reckoning from the time they boiled up first ; then put 
back the minced liver, thicken the gravy with a little butter and 
flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer over gentle fire five 
minutes, stirring occasionally. Dish the mince and split feet, and 
arrange in a circle alternately with croutons of toasted bread, and 
pour gravy in the middle. 

Pufs Head Cheese. — Having thoroughly cleaned a nice head, 
split in two, take out the eyes and brain ; clean the ears, throw scald- 
ing water over the head and ears, then scrape them well ; when very 
clean, put in kettle with water to cover, and set over a rather quick 
fire ; skim it as any skum rises ; when boiled so that the flesh leaves 
the bones, take it from the water with a skimmer into a large wood- 
en bowl or tray ; take out every particle of bone, chop meat fine, 



MEATS. 431 

season to taste with salt and pepper (a little powdered sage may be 
added), spread a cloth over the colander, put the meat in, fold cloth 
closely over it, lay a weight on it bo that it may press the whole 
equally (if it be lean use a heavy weight, if fat, a lighter one) ; when 
cold take off weight, remove from colander and place in crock. 
Some add vinegar in proportion of one pint to a gallon crock. 
Clarify fat from cloth, colander, and liquor of the pot, and use for 
frying. Some boil and chop the meat from the feet also. Pow- 
dered sweet herbs, teaspoon allspice, two of cloves and saltspoon 
powdered mace make a very nice seasoning, and some like the flavor 
of onions stuck with cloves boiled Avith the meat. Instead of press- 
in a cloth the meat may be packed in molds, moistened or not with 
a little of its own broth, and a little vinegar. Boiled heart, part 
of liver and the tongue are also chopped and added, and sometimes 
a fourth as much lean beef as meat from head, etc., is added. Sliced 
tongue and sausages, or whole tongue may be placed in center of 
mold. This dish is called Brawn by the English, who pack it in 
molds, without moistening, and press with weights. Some cook 
again ten minutes or so after chopping the meat and adding the 
seasoning before putting in molds. It is nice to pack in small 
molds, if to be served cold, and slice at table. Garnish with parsley 
and barberries or slices of lemon. 

Broiled Salt Pork. — Wash a piece of salt pork, the leg is best, 
put over the fire in cold water to cover and boil slowly three hours, 
allowing twenty minutes to the pound ; when done take up the 
meat, remove skin and serve with pickles or mustard and boiled po- 
tatoes. Cut in rather thin slices, and freshen by letting lie an hour 
or two in cold water or milk and water. 

Pork Fried in Batter. — Make the batter by beating together four 
eggs, three heaping tablespoons flour, a cup milk, and a little salt ; 
dip the slices of pork in this and fry in hot fat, or pour the batter 
over pork in frying pan and cook all until a nice brown. While 
making gravy place the fried pork where it will keep hot but not 
fry, as it should be sent to the table in nice dry crisp slices without 
a particle of grease visible. An excellent way of serving is to dust 
with white pepper and turn a little sweet cream over the slices. 
Pork Scraps with Egg Sauce are nice served with boiled codfish and 
mashed potatoes. Cut fat salt pork into half inch squares and fry 
a crisp brown ; for the sauce beat an egg very light, with one table- 
spoon flour. Add two tablespoons cold water, then pour on one pint 
boiling water. Let it boil three minutes, then take from the fire, 
add one half cup melted butter, and serve poured round the pork 
slices neatly placed in the center of platter. For Fried Pork with 
Apples, core sour apples, cut into nice slices crosswise without peel- 
ing them and fry in pan with slices of pork, and serve on dish with 
pork in center and apples around 



432 MEATS. 

Boiled Bacon. — As bacon is often very salt, it should be soaked 
in warm water an hour or two before cooking; then pare off the 
rusty parts, and scrape the under side and rind as clean as passible. 
Put inLo a saucepan cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and 
as fast as scum rises remove it. Shiimer very gently till thoroughly 
done ; then take up, strijj off skin, sprinkle some bread crumbs 
over and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. 
When served alone, young and tender beans or green pease are the 
usual accompaniments. Or boil a half lean and fat piece with a little 
stock, slices of sausage and cabbage; season with salt and spice and 
serve all very hot, the bacon in center of dish with sausages and 
cabbage around. 

Br eal" fast Bacon. — Slice very thin, cut off outside an v. ;ay each 
slice on slice of bread of ordinary thickness, same size as bacon, 
and bake in pan in very hot oven. Or boil till tender and when 
cold, slice, single-bread and fry brown in very little fat. Very nice 
and quite unlike bacon. 

Broiled Bacon. — The half lean and fat part of thick flank is best 
for broiling. Cut into thin slices, take off rind, broil over a clear 
fire and serve very hot. Some broil it between sheets of paper. 
Should there be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it 
answers very well for breakfast, cut into slices and broiled or fried. 

Fried Bacon. — Cut bacon in thin slices and fry ; some like it 
crisp, others fry only till transparent ; fry eggs in same pan and 
serve one on each slice. Or fry tart apples, either quartered or 
sliced crosswise and cored, in the fat and serve them on the slices of 
bacon, which have been kept hot in oven. Rashers of Bacon are 
thin strips of bacon, about an eighth of an inch thick and three or 
four inches long, fried until transparent. The French serve them 
laid over beefsteak, roast beef, game, etc., and they are often served 
for breakfast with fried liver. 

Baked Ham.— Put the ham in water at least twelve hours be- 
fore baking. Skimmed milk or milk and water is preferred by 
many to water for soaking hams. When ready to cook wipe the 
ham" dry, trim away any rusty places, and cover it with a coarse 
paste of flour and water to keep the gravy in, place in pan on trivet, 

„ , put m oven and bake from four to six 

^^,,,^^^^^i^>^J;^is*nl hours, according to size.- or allow hfteen 
^'^^'^^'^^f^^^^^^ ^ minutes for each pound. When ready to 
Trivet. serve take off paste and skin, cover with 

bread or cracker crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, and as soon 
as browned take up and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. Ham 
is sometimes roasted plainly, as directed in Roasted Meats, dredging 
well with flour, bread-crumbs or cracker dust, but is much sweeter 
and nicer if the juices are confined by a paste as above. Bcfiksd 



MEATS. 433 

Stuffed Ham is prepared by making deep incisions in the ham with 
a sharp knife and tilling them with a bread stuffing, seasoned with 
onion, ground sage, celery seed and thyme or with a dressing made 
by mixing a quarter pound fresh pork chopped very fine, two table- 
spoons powdered sage, one of black pepper, teaspoon cloves, all- 
spice, and cinnamon and an onion chopped very fine, moistening 
with pepper vinegar. Put the ham on trivet, sift flour thickly over 
and if pan is deep fill half full of water. Bake as above, basting as 
other roast meats. Or wash and scrape skin till very white, cut out 
a piece from thick part (use for frying), leaving the skin on the ham 
as far as possible, as it makes a casing for the stuffing ; put in a boil- 
er and steam for three hours ; take out and score in thin slices all 
around the skin ; fill the space cut out with a stuffing made of bread- 
crumbs, same as for poultry, only not quite so rich, seasoned rather 
highly with pepper and sage, wrap around a strip of cotton cloth to 
keep in place, and bake in an oven one and a half hours, turning 
so as brown all sides nicely. The last half hour sift lightly with 
powdered sugar and cinnamon. 

Boiled Ham. — Soak the ham as for baking, and add to the water 
in which it is to be boiled a pint vinegar two or three bay leaves and 
little bunch thyme and parsley. Others like the flavor of parsley, 
turnips and onions. The ham may also be stuffed as directed in 
Baked Ham. If it is to be served cold let the ham remain in the 
water until nearly cold, but do not leave overnight. Remove the 
- — -r:::^^?, rii^d ^nd with a cloth absorb as 

/^cP '-— ^M!^^ much grease from it as possible ; 

L'O C^^^ m^ then sprinkle with bread-crumbs, 

E^i C</^^^^fev-!!% ^^^ ^^y figure fancied upon it, 

/^^fe*^'^! t^; CCv^^/y^^ys^ ^iih a sharp knife, ornament with 

C^ '^^^^^^^^^^^^yLfta^^lfc a paper frill and croutons or veg- 

> ^6.J~'J'' ^^^^^*^^^^^^^^^^^;j,^^ rr etable flowers, (see Garnishes), 

~~ ^l_l=^-.-.-,=::?^rni;^ ■ and serve with a garnish of aspic 

Garnished Ham, • ii xr J' U '1 * 

-jelly, if an ordmary i) oiler is 
used to boil a ham, some put a whisp of clean, sweet hay in bottom. 

Boned Ham. — Having soaked a well-cured ham in tepid water 
overnight, boil it till perfectly tender, putting it on in warm water ; 
take up in a wooden tray, let cool, remove bone carefully, press the 
ham again into shape, return to boiling liquor, remove pot from fire 
and let remain in it till cool. Cut across and serve cold. 

Broiled Ham. — Cut ham in slices of medium thickness, place 
on a hot gridiron and broil until the fat readily flows out and the 
meat is slightly browned, take from the gridiron with a knife and 
fork, drop into a pan of cold water, then return again to the grid- 
iron, repeat several times, and the ham is done ; place on a hot plat- 
ter, add a few lumps of butter and serve at once. If too fat, trim 
off a part ; it is almost impossible to broil the fat part without broil- 
ing, but this does Qot impair the taste.. ^^ Or use any patent burn- 



434 MEATS. 




ers as in Broiled Meat. Eggs broken first into a saucer and then 
delicately fried in butter or clarified dripping by dipping the fat over 
them till whites are set, are nice served on broiled ham or bacon. Or 
they may be served round the meat as a garnish, and broiled or fried 
ham is sometimes served on a bed of boiled spinach. 

Fried Ham and Eggs. — Cut the ham into thin slices and if 
particularly hard and salt, soak it about ten minutes in hot water 
"'^^^ then dry in a cloth and put over fire in cold 

frying-pan, and turn the slices three or four 
Ham ana Eggs, timcs while cookiug. Ham should be thorough- 

ly well done, and will need to fry at least half an hour. When done 
place on a dish and serve, a poached egg on each slice. Or keep 
the ham hot in oven, and fry the eggs in the fat in pan, dipping it 
over the eggs with a spoon to cover with the white film, and some 
turn the eggs. Take out as soon as whites are set and serve on the 
ham. Or place the slices of ham in boiling water and cook till ten- 
der ; then put in frying-pan and brown, dish on a platter, and serve 
eggs on the slices, fried as above, or as a border, with ham in center 
of platter. Very delicious. Or after cooking in water dip the slices 
of ham in flour or sifted bread-crumbs before frying. Another way 
of serving ham is after boiling to put where it will keep warm ; then 
mix equal quantities potatoes and cabbage, bruised well together, 
and fry in the fat left from the ham. Place the mixture on bottom 
of dish and lay the slices of ham on top. Cauliflower or broccoli 
may be substituted for cabbage. Bacon may be served same. The 
most economical way to cut a ham for broiling or frying, is to slice, 
for the same meal, from the large end as well as from the thickest 
part ; in this way a part of best and a part of the less desirable is 
brought on, and the waste of the meal is from the poorest, as the 
best is eaten first. After cutting a ham, if not to be cut from again 
soon, rub the cut side with corn meal ; this prevents the ham from 
becoming rancid, and rubs off easily when the ham is needed again. 

Frizzled Ham. — Cut the lean part of ham in thin shavings, as 
thin as possible ; soak in cold water an hour, then press the water 
out. Put a level tablespoon butter in a frying-pan and when hot put 
in a pint of the meat and fry about five minutes, stirring all the 
time ; then sprinkle over it a heaped tablespoon flour and fry till 
the flour is a yellow-brown color ; pour a pint sweet milk over and 
let boil one minute. Nice for breakfast or tea. Dried beef prepared 
same way. 

Potted Ham.— Take a pound of lean to every half pound fat 
ham (or better to every quarter pound fat) and mince very fine, run 
through a sausage machine, or 'better, pound in a mortar; add to 
each pound and a hall a small teaspoon powdered mace, quarter of 
a good-sized nutmeg, grated coarse, and a saltspoon cayenne pepper; 
less mace may be used and a little pounded allspice added instead : 



MEATS. 



435 



a powdered bay leaf may also be added, and some like a little mus- 
tard ; mix all thoroughly and press into the dish or pot in which it 
is to be served. Bake in oven about twenty-five minutes, taking 
care tliat the top does not brown too much, and then press it down 
very hard using a weight of some kind. Cover the top with a thin 
coat of fresh melted lard or clarified butter, tie down with an oil- 
cloth cover, or paste paper over and it will keep for months. Some 
cover and put away without baking, and others bake in baking dish, 
then pack in pots. Very nice sliced for luncheon or tea or for sand- 
wiches. 

Ham Puifs. — One pint each water and flour, five eggs, three or 
four tablespoons chopped ham, pinch of cayenne. While water is 
boiling stir in flour, beat well and cook until the stifi' batter parts 
from the pan, then beat in the eggs one by one, and add the ham 
and seasoning; drop in hot lard and fry until brown. A nice break- 
fast dish. 

Sausage. — For the various ways of making and packing saus- 
age intended for long keeping, turn to Cutting and Curing Meats. 
To cook sausage that has been packed in jars take out and make 
with floured hands in small cakes and fry in pan Avithout lard, turn- 
ing to cook both sides, or simply spread on bottom of frying-pan to 
thickness desired, and when cooked on one side cut into nice sized 
pieces and turn to finish frying. The sausage in skins should be 
pricked and put in cold frying-pan to cook slowly, or if not pricked 
fry in a little lard or dripping, and if not liked very fat, take out of 
pan when nearly done, and finish cooking on gridiron. Or a very 
neat and the most wholesome way of cooking is to prick them all 
around, lay in a shallow tin, and put in oven to bake half an hour. 
Sausage and Apples are often served together. If the sausage is 
in cakes, slice the apples quite thin and fry in pan with them, serv- 
ing sausage in center of dish with apples around. If the sausage is 
in skins, fry both sausage and sliced apples by dropping in hot lard, 
frying apples until nicely browned. Serve as above, or after frying, 
put both into a pudding dish with edge ofpaste and bake half an hour 
in quick oven. Apples Stuffed with Sausage are sometimes served 
as an entree. Remove the cores from sour apples without breaking, 
stuff with highly seasoned sausage meat, and bake until the meat is 
done, in a moderate oven. Sausages are also served on a bed or 
mound of mashed potato with apple fritters as a border, or with ap- 
ple sauce. Or send to table with pieces of toast of same size between 
the sausages. Or split the sausages in two and broil them sending 
to table on toast. Some prefer brown-bread toast for this. 

Breaded Sausage.— W\^e the sausages dry, single-bread, put in 
frying-basket, plunge in hot fat and cook ten minutes. Serve with 
a garnish of toasted bread and parsley. 



436 MEATS. 

Mutton Sausage. — Take a pound fresh mutton, or that which 
has been underdone, chop very fine and season with pepper, salt 
and beaten mace. Ciiop also half pound beef suet, two anchovies, 
pint oysters, quarter pound bits of dry bread, and a boiled onion ; 
mix the whole with the oyster liquor and whites and yolks of two 
well-beaten eggs ; pound the whole in a mortar, roll into lengths, 
corks or balls, and fry. 

Oyster Sausage. — Take one pound of veal and twenty oys- 
ters, bearded ; pound the veal very fine in a mortar with a little suet, 
and season with little pepper ; soak a piece of bread in the oyster 
liquor, pound, and add it, with the oysters cut in pieces, to the veal ; 
beat and add an egg to bind them together, roll into little lengths 
and fry in butter a delicate brown. Or take half pound lean mut- 
ton or beef, with three-quarters pound beef suet, and twenty-five 
oysters, bearded. Chop the whole and add bread-crumbs, with two 
yolks of eggs. Season with salt, white pepper, a little mace, and 
mushroom powder. May be put in skins and kept a day or two be- 
fore frying. 

Veal Sausage. — Chop a half pound each lean veal and fat bacon 
very fine ; add sage, salt, pepper and allspice to taste ; beat well, roll 
into balls, flatten and fry. An anchovy chopped with the meat is 
an improvement. 

Marbled Veal. — Boil a beef tongue, and same quantity lean 
veal ; grind separately in sausage cutter ; season both with pepper, 
a little mustard and pinch each of nutmeg and cloves, adding salt 
to veal. Pack in alternate spoonfuls as irregularly as possible in a 
buttered crock, pressing very hard ; put in cold place, turn out 
whole and cut in slices. White meat of fowls may be used in place 
of veal. Or take a piece of veal from the round; add loose lean 
scraps, and a bone if convenient ; cover with cold water and boil un- 
til perfectly tender ; remove the piece of meat, leaving the scraps 
and bone to stew longer. Have ready four or five hard boiled eggs ; 
slice the cold veal, and put in the mold in layers, with sliced egg, a 
little salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, boiled ham cut in dice, and a 
slight dredging of flour ; reserve enough of the egg to make a border 
around the last layer. When mold is full press the layers gently to- 
gether and pour in the stock from the kettle. If there are no scraps 
or bone for the stock, stir in a tablespoon melted gelatine for each 
pint meat ; cover mold, and bake moderately for an hour and a half. 
When cold, turn from mold, and serve. Thinly-sliced uncooked 
veal may be used. 

Potted Veal. — Mince veal and ham together in proportion of 
one pound veal to quarter pound ham, pound in mortar with cay- 
enne and mace to taste and sufficient fresh better to make smooth 
Saste. Press into little pots or jars and cover with clarified butter, 
'ice for breakfast or luncheon. 



MEATS. 437 

Veal Cutlets. — The choicest cutlets or steaks are cut from the 
fillet or center of hind leg. For Broiled Veal Cutlets, dredge with 
pepper and salt and dip in melted butter and sifted bread-crumbs 
twice, and broil with a piece of buttered paper between the cutlets 
and the broiler, giving them time to cook through before the bread- 
ing is brown. When nearly done remove paper and finish on the 
broiler. Serve garnished with parsley and lemon. They may be 
broiled without the paper. Or first half fry them in a little butter, 
turn white sauce over them and let stand till cold. Then dip in 
melted butter or oil, enclose in buttered paper cases with edges folded 
so that the sauce will not run out, and broil slowly twenty minutes, 
or place in oven for same time. Or fry slices of ham first, then fry 
the breaded cutlets in same fat, and arrange on dish with alternate 
slices overlapping each other, spreading the ham with butter mixed 
with a little mustard, and the veal with butter melted with a little 
tart jelly. Or fry and serve with nice slices of salt pork. Nice with 
mushroom sauce. For Maryland Cutlets, cut two pounds fillet of 
veal into small round pieces and place in frying-pan with two table- 
spoons butter and seasoning of white pepper and salt. Cook the 
meat over a slow fire for five minutes in order to whiten it, turning 
the pieces and do not let the butter brown. Draw pan from fire and 
sprinkle over the meat a tablespoon chopped parsley, half dozen 
mushrooms and a shallot also chopped ; melt in separate saucepan 
a tablespoon butter, stir in a tablespoon flour, add by degrees a half 
pint white stock, bring all to a boil, pour over the veal in frying-pan 
and cook slowly twenty minutes, turning the meat constantly to 
prevent coloring too much. When done take up the meat on flat 
dish and stir into sauce yolks of two eggs beaten with tablespoon 
cream, simmer slowly till thick and turn over the cutlets which 
must have been kept hot. 

Veal Fricassee. — Put piece of butter size of an egg into a kettle, 
and when it begins to fry, put in the veal, season and fry brown; 
then add water sufficient to cook it. When done thicken with cream 
and flour as for Chicken Fricassee, and the dish will be very like 
chicken and much cheaper. Two pounds of veal will make a dinner 
for six or eight if not too much bone. Or cut the veal in nice sized 
slices and fry in melted butter until firm but not colored ; dredge a 
tablespoon flour over them, add a little grated lemon peel, and grad- 
ually as much boiling veal stock as will cover the meat ; simmer un- 
till tender. Take out meat and add to the gravy a gill of boiling 
cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch powdered mace. Beat yolks of 
two eggs in a bowl ; add gradually a little of the sauce, after it has 
cooled a few minutes, then add it carefully to the remainder. Re- 
turn the meat to the sauce, and let the saucepan remain near the 
fire until eggs are set. Add juice of half a lemon and serve. 



438 MEATS. 

Veal Oysters. — Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into 
pieces the size of an oyster. Rub a seasoning of pepper, salt and a 
little mace mixed over each piece ; single-bread and fry as oysters. 

Yeal Pie. — Cut two pounds cutlets into square pieces, and sea- 
son with pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; put in a pudding dish with 
two tablespoons minced savory herbs sprinkled over, and one or two 
slices of lean bacon or ham placed on top ; if possible this should be 
previously cooked, as undressed bacon makes the veal red, and spoils 
its appearance. Pour in a little water, cover with crust, ornament 
as fancied ; brush over with yolk of an egg, and bake in a well heat- 
ed oven for about one and one-half hours. Pour in a good gravy 
after baking, which is done by removing the top ornament, and re- 
placing it after the gravy is added. For a Yeal and Ilam Pie., cut 
the veal and ham in thin slices, lay a slice of ham, about one-third 
the slice of the veal on the latter, season with seasoning as above, 
and roll them up and place them in the dish, add water and chopped 
(not sliced) hard-boiled eggs, place on the crust and bake in a mod- 
erate heat, the same as for Beefsteak Pie. If the ham is very salt 
use less salt and more pepper in the seasoning. Parsley is a great 
favorite generally with veal. Those wishing it can add it ; also force- 
meat balls. Catsup, either mushroom or tomato or a little Worces- 
tershire sauce, may also be added. Some are very fond of sausage 
meat added to the veal pie ; but all these are mere matters of taste. 
For a Veal and Oyster Pie procure a pound flank or neck of veal, 
cut in small pieces and stew until tender in just enough water to 
cover. Chop an onion with a little parsley and add with the pork 
also cut up, salt and pepper and last a spoonful of thickening and a 
cup milk. Take from tire and turn it into a shallow pan that will 
hold one and one-half or two quarts. Then scatter a cup oysters and 
their liquor over the top, sprinkle a little more pepper and a dust of 
flour from the dredger, and cover with a crust. Bake about half an 
hour. The crust may be made by rubbing a small cup minced suet 
with a heaping cup flour and a pinch salt, and mixing with luke- 
warm water, or with lard and flour in about the same measures, mix- 
ed up very cold. 

Veal Pot-Pie. — Put two or three pounds veal (a piece with ribs 
is good), cut in a dozen pieces, in a quart cold water; make a 
quart soda-biscuit dough ; take two-thirds of dough, roll to a fourth 
of an inch thick, cut in strips one inch wide by three long ; pare and 
slice six potatoes ; boil veal till tender, take out all but three or four 
pieces, put in two handfuls of potatoes and several strips of dough, 
then add pieces of veal and dough, seasoning with salt, pepper, and 
a little butter, until all the veal is in pot ; add boiling water enough 
to cover, take rest of dough, roll out to size of pot, cut several holes 
to let steam escape, and place over the whole. Put on a tight lid 
and boil gently twenty or thirty minutes without v/noovering. Or, 




MEATS. 439 

Veal Stew.—B.aYe bones of breast of veal cracked, so that it 
can be easily carved, dust with flour, put over the fire in a dripping 
pan containing enough hot butter to prevent burning, and brown it 
quickly on both sides ; pour over e'nough boiling water to cover, 
season with a teaspoon of salt and a dust of" cayenne pepper, turn 
another pan over it, and stew it gently for an hour ; meantime shell 
green pease enough to cover it; after the veal has cooked an hour put 
in the pease and cook them until tender, then serve them with the 
veal laid on them, first seasoning both palatably. Or rice may be 
boiled and served with it instead of the pease. 

Roast Fillet of Veal.—Rnh two tablespoons salt and half tea- 
spoon pepper ini o the veal ; then fill the cavity from which the bone 
was taken withH am Force-meatorany stuffing liked; skewer and cie 
'"^'"^ ^^^ the fillet in round shape .^at a 

half pound salt pork in thin slices 
and put half on a tin sheet that 
will fit in dripping-pan ; place this 
in pan, and fillet on it ; cover veal 
'Fillet of Veal. " ' wlth remainder of pork; put hot 

water enough in pan to just cover the bottom, and place in oven. 
Bake slowly four hours, basting frequently with gravy in pan, season 
with salt and white pepper. As water in pan cooks away, it must 
be renewed, remembering to have only enough to keep meat and 
pan from burning. After cooking three hours, take pork from top of 
fillet and spread tliickly with butter and dredge with flour. Repeat 
this after thirty minutes and then brown handsomely. Put about 
three tablespoons butter in sauce pan and when hot add two heaping 
tablespoons flour, and stir until dark brown. Add to it a half pint 
stock or water ; stir a minute, and set back where it will keep warm, 
but not cook. Take up fillet, and skim all fat off gravy ; add water 
enough to make a half pint gravy, also the sauce just made. Let 
this boil up, and add the juice of half a lemon, and more salt and 
pepper, if needed. Strain, and pour around tne fillet. Garnish the 
dish with potato puffs and slices of lemon. 

Roast Loin of Veal. — Roast on a bed of vegetables, like beef, 
and stuff with a Veal Force-meat instead of bread dressing. Some 
apply a mixture of melted butter and flour, twice as much of 
the former as the latter, to the veal in cooking, using a pastry 
brush in putting it on. The breast of veal boned, with a layer of 
force-meat spread over the inside, rolled and tightly bound is nice 
roasted same. For a plain roast loin have every joint thoroughly 
cut, and between each lay a slice of salt pork ; roast a fine brown, so 
that the edges of the ])or"k will be crisp, basting often ; season with 
pepper — the pork will make it salt enough. The shoulder may be 
roasted, with bone removed and stuffed, same as loin or fill the bone 
cavity with onions, peeled and sliced, seasoned with salt and pepper ; 



440 MEATS. 

or equal quanties of bread-crumbs and onions may be used. Nicely 
pealed and rounded potatoes may be baked in pan with roast veal, 
turning to brown both sides. Serve shoulder with gravy as above. 
Brains and Tongue. — Blanch and chop the brains, and put in 
saucepan with two tablespoons butter, a little chopped parsley, juice 
of half a lemon, salt and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim the boiled 
tongue, place in middle of dish and pour the sauce and brains round 
it. If liked a tablespoon each chopped parsley, capers and gherkins, 
and teaspoon very finely chopped onion may be added to the sauce. 
Garnish with parsley, mace, pickles or slices of lemon. Or, after 
blanching put the brains in quart cold water with teaspoon salt and 
tablespoon vinegar and boil fifteen minutes, and when cold serve 
with a cold tongue, the latter in center of dish and brains cut in two 
and placed at the side. Pour tartare sauce round them and garn- 
ish as above. For Brain and Tongue Pudding, line a baking dish 
with good paste and put in a layer of thinly-sliced cooked tongue, 
then a layer of chopped brain, add a seasoning of salt, pepper, a 
little chopped onion and parsley. Do this alternately till dish is 
filled. On the top put slices of hard boiled egg ; moisten by adding 
a teaspoon flour mixed smoothly in a quarter jDint milk. Steam an 
hour or bake half an hour. A fresh cucumber, pared and sliced, 
may be put in the pudding, if liked. 

Calfs Head — Comparatively few housekeepers know how many 
really dainty dishes can be prepared from calfs head. For hints as 
to purchasing, turn to Marketing, and for directions for cleaning, 
blanching, skinning, boning, etc., see Cutting and Curing Meats. 
Almost every part of the head can be used, though there is some 
tough white meat about the mouth to be removed a small part 
around the eye, and some bits of gristle. The water or broth in 
which the head has been boiled should be saved for soup, though a 
part of it is of course used for making gravy which accompanies 
the dish. Lamb's or Sheep's head can be cooked the same as calf's 
after any of the recipes given, the meat from two of the former 
about equaling that from one of the latter. Beef's head may also 
be used, but must be soaked in salted water overnight, will require 
longer boiling and will not of course make so delicate a dish. Only 
half the rneat from a beef's head will be required in recipes where 
that of a calf's is given. To give the desired acid flavor generally 
liked with calfs head use the sour cooking wine of foreign manu- 
facture or any of the flavored vinegars preferred (see Pickles). 

Baked Head. — After blanching, halve the head carefully, cutting 
down between the ears, lay in dripping-pan, cover with bread-crumbs 
and melted butter, and bake in hot oven, basting frequently. Make 
a sauce of drawn butter, chopped hard-boiled eggs, the mashed 
brain, a little red pepper, and some parsley. When the head is 
done, serve on a flat dish, smothered in the sauce. Some prefer to 



MEATS. 441 

brush the head over with two beaten yolks of eggs before covering 
with bread-crumbs, and sprinkle over also powdered mace, nutmeg, 
and pepper and salt ; put the brains in with the head, first dipping 
in melted butter ; put a little good gravy, stock, or water if neither 
is at hand, in pan, cover closely and bake in hot oven, removing 
cover long enough before done to brown nicely. Serve with a sauce 
poured round it, made as follows : Slightly brown two or three sliced 
onions or shallots in butter ; add tablespoon flour, some brown gravy 
or stock, a carrot thinly sliced, little chopped jDarsley, bay leaf, rind 
and juice of half a lemon, white pepper, and salt. Simmer all one 
half hour, and pass through coarse strainer. Put back in saucepan 
heat through, and add small piece butter, tablespoon any flavored 
vinegar liked, lump of sugar, and more lemon juice and cayenne if 
not piquant in taste. Or garnish with sliced lemons and send on 
with it any good gravy hked in a boat. For Stuffed Calf's Ready 
procure a head cut off about a finger length behind the ears, with 
the skin unbroken, sew up the places from which the eyes have 
been removed, salt it well outside and in, and set aside while mak- 
ing the stuffing. Boil a smoked 
beef's tongue, the fresh calf s tongue 
and some mushrooms till soft, chop 
fine and add sufficient rich white 
sauce to make a smooth dressing,and 
put on ice till very cold ; chop fine 

three pounds cooked veal with dried herbs, sage, parsley, etc. Open 
the head on the under side and put in half the veal, then the dress- 
ing prepared as above, and fill up with remainder of veal. Sew the 
edges of the opening together and close the back of head or neck by 
sewing on a piece of bacon cut to fit. Rub all over with lemon juice 
and cover with very thin slices of bacon, wrap in a cloth and bind 
well with network of twine. Put in a pan with half pint each vine- 
gar and water, cover with another j^an, or put in a closed roasting 
pan, and bake in slow oven for two or three hours. When done take 
off cloth and bacon, dredge with flour and let brown. Serve on plat- 
ter garnished with parsley, or with mushrooms and potato balls and 
send on with it a good rich gravy. 

Scalloped Head. — After boiling till meat is tender, cut in small 
pieces and place in an earthen pudding dish a layer of bread-crumbs, 
season, then a layer of meat with bits of butter, then crumbs, and so 
on, with crumbs for last layer ; pour a cup of the broth over all and 
bake in oven till heated through and nicely browned. 

Calf's Head Cheese. — Boil the head till tender, and keep the 
broth boiling while removing the meat from bones ; cut tongue in 
larger bits, the rest quite small, skim the broth carefully and af- 
ter it has boiled down to little over a pint put in some salt, a red 
pepper cut very small, and some chopped parsley ; then add the 




Calla Head. 




442 MEATS. 

meat. Put all in a deep dish with a plate over it, and a weight on 
that to keep it pressed down. Slice thin and serve for luncheon or 
tea. For Spiced Cheese cook as above, adding spices to taste while 
boiling; when partly cold add cup vinegar. This will keep a long 
time in cold weather. For Head Croquettes, boil pint milk, add 
the chopped boiled meat from the head and the parboiled brain, 
seasoned with a little mace, salt or pepper, and parsley, simmer a 
few minutes ; then add three well-beaten eggs and a teaspoon corn- 
starch and stir quickly to mix thoroughly. Cook about five min- 
utes and cool on flat dish, form into balls or cones, single-bread 
and fry a delicate brown in a wire basket as illustrated, 
or for small croquettes one made of woven-wire is bet- 
ter. Or for ISpiced Croquettes cut the blanched calf's 
head into pieces two inches wide ; lay for three hours 
in a pickle made of three tablespoons each lemon juice 
and water, salt and pepper, and a pinch of mace. Take 
them out, drain, single-bread and fry in hot fat, and send to table 
with tartare sauce. Or for plain Breal'fast Cakes chop the boiled 
meat fine ; add a small onion and some chopped parsley. Heat cup 
broth, put in chopped meat, let boil, and thicken wath a little flour. 
Put on flat dish to cool ; form into flat cakes, single-bread and fry 
till brown in a frying-pan with a little butter or drippings. For 
Fritters, make batter of pint of milk, two eggs, teaspoon baking-pow- 
der, small lump of ice to keep batter cool, flour enough till it will 
drop, not run from spoon, and two cups of chopped meat as above. 
Fry in hot fat. A nice cold dish is made from a boiled head in the shape 
of a Pie. Cut the meat into slices. At bottom of dish put a layer 
of cold boiled ham, then a layer of head, with a seasoning of pepper 
and salt, and a little brain sauce. Dot the layers over with force- 
meat balls, or veal stuffing, and slices of hard-boiled egg; add a 
gravy made of the trimmings of veal, and flavored with onion, herbs, 
mace and peppercorns. Put a good thick crust on the pie, and bake 
in a rather slow oven. When done, the pie may be filled up with 
gravy. Serve cold. 

Sweet-breads. — These are the most delicate and expensive parts 
of meat, and the choicest are Veal Sweet-breads. See Marketing for 
suggestions for buying; and Cutting and Curing Meats for directions 
about blanching and parboiling. It is more convenient to prepare 
them the day before wanted, as they must always be first thoroughly 
cooked and cooled, before making into any of the following recipes. 
Baked Sweet-breads. — Prepare as directed, then double-bread, 
put in baking-pan with lump of butter on each and bake in oven 
until brown, basting with veal gravy. Dish on toast or fried bread 
with the gravy, flavored with tablespoon mushroom catsup, poured 
over. Or simply spread with butter, dredge with salt, pepper and 
flour and bake. Or, after parboiling, lard with very narrow strips 



MEATS. 443 

of fat salt pork not larger than a toothpick, taking deep, long stitches 
or they will break out, and roast brown in a moderate oven, basting 
often with butter and water. Serve with white sauce or tomato 
sauce poured over, ¥qv Sweethreads with Green Pease, lard five 
sweet-breads as above, put on fire with half pint water, and let stew 
slowly for half an hour, take out and put in a small dripping pan 
with a little butter and a sprinkle of tiour ; brown slightly, add half 
a gill milk and water, and season with pepper ; heat a half pint of 
cream, and stir it in the gravy in pan. Have pease ready boiled 
and seasoned, place the sweet-breads in the center of the dish, pour 
the gravy over, and put pease around. Or serve the pease heaped 
in center with sweet-breads around, and gravy poured round edge 
of dish. Some parboil in quart water, teaspoon salt and tablespoon 
vinegar, then throw into cold water and when cold, lard as above put 
in baking pan on top of layer of trimmings of pork, and put over them 
a little onion, four or five slices carrot, half stalk celery and sprig of 
parsley, all chopped fine, and pepper and salt. Bake twenty min- 
utes in hot oven. Cut a slice of bread into an oval or any fancy 
shape and fry in a little hot butter, browning well ; put this in cen- 
ter of hot platter, on which place the sweet-breads and serve pease 
or tomato sauce around, Baked Sweet-Breads with Orange Juice iorm 
a very elegant dish. Parboil and blanch sweetbreads as directed, 
score them deeply on top, lay in a buttered baking pan, season with 
salt and pepper, and squeeze juice of a sour orange over them, quick- 
ly brown in hot ovsn ; pour over the drippings from the pan and 
garnish with sliced sour oranges. 

Broiled Sweet-Breads. — Prepare as directed ; cut into thin slices 
spread plenty of butter over them and broil over hot coals, turning 
often. Or split each in half lengthwise and broil, turning every 
minute as they begin to drip. Have ready on deep plate some 
melted butter well seasoned with salt and pepper and mixed with 
catsup or pungent sauce. When the sweet-breads are done a fine 
brown lay them in this, turn over several times and set closely cov- 
ered in warm oven for a few minutes. Serve very hot on rounds of 
fried bread or toast, with the seasoned hot butter over them. Or 
after parboiling single-bread them and broil. Serve with a cream 
sauce poured round them and garnish with water-cresses. 

Fricaseed Sweet-Breads. — For a white fricasee prepare as di- 
rected and cut in slices. To a pint of veal gravy add a thickening 
of flour and butter, tablespoon cream, half teaspoon mushroom 
powder, and grated lemon peel, nutmeg and white pepper to taste ; 
stew ten minutes, add the sweet-breads and let them simmer twenty 
minutes. Dish, add salt, grated lemon peel, stir and serve. Or 
put the sweet-breads in the broth without thickening, season with 
pepper and salt and a very little onion if liked, sprinkle with nut- 



444 MEATS, 

meg, cover closely and stew steadily an hour, if of fair size and to 
be served whole. If they have been sliced, three-quarters of an 
hour will be sufficient. Heat four tablespoons vinegar in another 
saucepan, but do not boil, take from fire and stir in carefully three 
beaten eggs. Add this to sweet breads just before dishing, leaving 
in just long enough to cook the eggs, but do not boil. Stir in tea- 
spoon chopped parsley and serve in hot covered dish. 

Fried Sweet-breads. — Prepare as directed and when perfectly 
cold cut lengthwise into slices quarter of an inch thick. Have 
tablespoon butter hot in frying-pan, put in sweet-breads and cook 
ten minutes, turning all the while ; then add cup brown veal or 
fowl gravy, tablespoon mushroom or tomato catsup, tablespoon 
chopped onion and parsley, mixed, with pepper and salt, all pre- 
viously heated together. Stir at boiling heat five minutes and serve 
in hot dish. Or roll the sweet-breads in flour seasoned with salt 
and pepper, fry brown in hot butter and serve with mushroom 
sauce poured round them. 

Skewered SweeUhreads. — Prepare as directed and cut into slices 
about half an inch or more thick ; sprinkle them with pepper and 
salt, single-bread them ; run a little skewer through two of 
soewer. theso sHccs, alternating with two thin, square slices ^of ba- 
con and fry in very hot lard ; serve a tomato or cream sauce in cen- 
ter, and garnish with imrsley. Serve one skewer to each person at 
table. 

Sweet-bread Croquettes. — Single-bread three slices of prepared 
sweet-breads and fry as croquettes, either in butter or drippings in 
frying pan, or by dropping in kettle hot fat. Or, with mushrooms., 
cut two sweet-breads into dice; cut a half box t'l' ^^^^^^^^^. 
four mushrooms into dice also ; put tablespoon and ^^^^^^^^m 
a half butter in saucepan and when it browns stir ^^^^^^^^^P 
and cook until smooth ; then stir in a gill good sweet bread croquettes, 
stock or cream, add the diced mushrooms and sweet-breads, and 
when thoroughly heated take from fire and add beaten yolks of two 
eggs ; return to fire a moment to "set" the yolks, but do not boil. 
When cool form into rolls or any shape lilted, (see Croquettes), 
double-bread them and fry by dropping in kettle of hot fat. They 
may be served alone or with pease, or tomato or berhamel sauce. 
For Sweet-bread Fritters, slice sweet-breads thin, sprinkle over grated 
nutmeg and chopped parsley, dip into a batter made of one cup each 
milk and flour, one egg, a pinch of salt and a half teaspoon baking 
r*owder, and fry in hot fat. 

Sweet-bread Sandwiches. — Parboil and blanch two sweet-breads, 
wipe them dry, mince, season with pepper and salt, work in a table- 
spoon melted butter, and spread between buttered bread. The two 
sweet-breads will make six sandwiches, or mixed with an equal 
(]^uantity of chopped ham, a dozen. 




MEATS. 445 

Sweet-bread Vol-au- Vents. — Prepare as directed and when cool 
cut sweet-breads into dice, season with salt and pepper and dredge 
with flour. Have in a basin two or three dozen stewed, ^drained 
oysters, small teacup stewed button mushrooms, one dozen or more 
olives, pared in one piece close to the kernel. Put a quarter pound 
butter in Btewpan, melt and add two tablespoons flour, stirring well, 
and pouring in stock gradually until the sauce is of creamy con- 
sistency ; season with salt, pepper or cayenne and a 
very little grated nutmeg ; put in the sweet-breads, 

^^ stirring to prevent browning; when throughly 

i.avoiau-veuis. hcatcd add one after the other, the oysters, mush- 
rooms, and olives, and a tablespoon tarragon vinegar; stir and heat 
up again, but do not let boil. 

Force-meats. — These are also known as "farces," "stuffings" and 
"dressings" and are most used for stuffing meats, game and poultry, 
but are also often cooked separately and served as a bed or border 
for entrees, or formed into square or oval piece for center of dish. 
For the latter the mixture should be made into any shape fancied, 
about an inch and ahalf thick, and steamed in buttered paper or 
buttered plate two hours. When done, slip on center of dish, arrange 
the entree on it and pour the sauce around the base. Delicate cut- 
letSf sweet-breads, etc., are served thus. Veal or chicken force-meat 
is best for all light entrees. Force-meat may also be made into balls 
and poached or fried for soup or garnishes. In making force-meats 
be careful not to use so much of any one flavor as to overcome all 
others, and unless for very savory dishes, pepper should be sparingly 
used. The force meat should be thick enough to cut with a knife, 
but not dry and heavy. Bacon or butter should always be substi- 
tuted for suet when the force-meat is to be eaten cold. Any left from 
stuffing fowls or meat may be made into balls, fried and used as a 
garnish. 

Oyster Force-meat.-r-Sift a half pint bread crumbs, and add ta- 
blespoon and a half finely minced suet, or butter cut in small bits, 
bunch of savory herbs, quarter salt-spoon nutmeg and pepper and 
salt ; mix well and add eighteen oysters, coarsely chopped and two 
well beaten eggs. Work all together with the hand until smoothly 
mixed. Especially nice for stuffing turkey. 

Suet Force-vieat. — Chop half pound beef suet very fine, add same 
quantity bread-crumbs, tablespoon chopped parsley, little powdered 
thyme, add majoram, grated rind and juice of half a lemon, salt, 
pepper and nutmeg to taste, and mix with three whole eggs. A 
good stuffing for veal and nice also for turkey and baked fish, with 
more chopped parsley. 

Veal Force-meat. — Chop a pound veal and half pound salt pork ; 
mix with one pound sifted bread-crumbs, a little cut parsley, sweet 
majoram, three tablespoons of butter, two well-beaten eggs, and 



446 MEATS. 

pepper. Or take three pounds of veal, cup butter, pint each bread- 
crumbs, milk and white sauce, two tablespoons salt, half teaspoon 
pepper, two tablespoons each bottled sauce, onion juice and chop- 
ped parsley, yolks of six eggs and half teaspoon grated nutmeg. 
Make and use same as French Force-meat. Nice for tish. (chicken 
and Fish Force-meats made same as last recipe, using only the 
breast of chicken and cream instead of milk for the former. Salmon 
and halibut are best for the fish force-meat, which is used for entrees of 
fish only. For an excellent Sweet-bread Force-meat take equal parts 
lean veal and pork, and mince finely together ; cut into pieces a par- 
boiled veal sweet-bread, and mix with about three-quarters pound 
each of former meats. Add a half pound bread, soaked, and the 
same amount soft butter. Flavor with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper 
and half an ounce grated lemon rind. Bind with three beaten eggs, 
and use for turkey. 

Sage and Onion Force-meat. — Pare four onions, and parboil in 
three different waters ; soak two or three times as much stale bread 
in tepid water, and wring dry in a towel; scald ten sage leaves; 
when onions are tender, which will be in about half an hour, chop 
them with the sage leaves and add them to the bread, with table- 
spoon butter, yolks of two raw eggs, level teaspoon salt, and half 
saltspoon pepper; mix thoroughly and stuff roast pork or poultry. 

Force-meat Balls. — Chop with a quarter pound b^ef suet little 
lemon peel and parsley and mix with a pint and a half sifted bread- 
crumbs ; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg and moisten with yolks 
of two eggs ; make into small balls and bake on buttered tin or fry 
in hot fat till crisp. Add a little finely chopped ham, if at hand. 

Frogs. — Only the hind legs of frogs are used and these are con- 
sidered a great delicacy. They must be skinned and blanched before 
cooking as follows : Drop them in salted boiling water, to which 
some add a little lemon juice, boil three or four minutes, put in cold 
water a few minutes, then take out and drain. They may be broiled 
or prepared after the recipes given. 

Fricassed Frogs. — Put in stewpan two tablespoons butter, for 
two dozen frogs ; when melted lay in two dozen blanched legs ; fry 
two minutes, stirring almost constantly ; then sprinkle teaspoon 
flour over and stir all with wooden spoon ; add two sprigs parsley, 
one of thyme, a bay leaf, two cloves, one of garlic, salt, white pep- 
per, and half pint stock or water and two tablespoons lemon juice ; 
boil gently till done ; dish the Ipgs, reduce the sauce by boiling, strain, 
mix in yolks of two eggs, pour over the legs and serve. Or fry a 
dozen pairs blanched legs with a little fresh butter and very little 
minced shallot or onion until the butter begins to brown, then add 
two tablespoons each cold water and flavored vinegar mixed, and 
cup hot water. Stew with cover on twenty minutes, then skim off 
most of butter and add seasoning of salt and cayenne. Thicken 
the liquor with four yolks of eggs beaten with two tablespoons cream. 



MEATS. 447 

Pour some of the hot liquor to the yolks before putting in saucepan, 
and take from the fire almost immediately, or as soon' as it show? 
the first sign of boiling again. Place the frogs neatly in dish and 
strain the sauce over them. Frogs can also be plainly stewed like 
chickens, without the vinegar and thickening. 

Fried Frogs. — Fry the blanched legs in little butter in frying- 
pan and serve nicely arranged in dish of tomato sauce, garnished 
with croutons, or double-bread them, put in frying basket and im- 
merse in hot fat. Put a frill of paper around bone of each and serve 
very hot in a circle overlapping one another round a platter with 
pease in center. Or for Frog Salad soak two dozen legs in slightly 
salted water an hour and a half; drain, stew slowly in hot water 
until quite tender, drain oflf water and cover with milk. Let this 
come to a boil ; drain and cool ; remove bones, cut up meat and add 
an equal quantity of cut celery, place on platter, cover with mayon- 
naise dressing and garnish with little tufts of shrimps, and green 
herbs, alternated with hard-boiled eggs quartered lengthwise. 

Frog Saddles. — Take the entire hind quarters of the frogs, cook 
in water a few minutes, or Au Court Bouillion like fish, page 253 ; 
then roll in flour, then in beaten egg with a spoonful water, then coat 
well in cracker dust. Fry like fritters. Cut square slices of buttered 
toast across diagonally, making triangular pieces; place two on a 
dish, the broad bases together in the middle and points at the ends 
and frogs on the toast in corresponding manner. Ornament with 
sliced lemon and parsley. 



G-ravies. 



Gravies are considered an indispensable accompaniment to all 
meats and " made dishes " from meat by professional cooks, but few 
housekeepers give their preparation the thought and attention neces- 
sary to make them in the perfection so easily attained with very little 
expenditure of time or means. The making of gravy to serve with 
a roast or other freshly cooked meat is a very simple matter indeed, 
as will be seen from the recipes given. But for every-day conveni- 
ence, and in order to be able to get up appetizing little dishes at a 
moment's notice when an unexpected guest arrives, every house- 
keeper should keep on hand a supply of stock, or glaze, which is 
"condensed gravy," and for which a recipe is given later. But in- 
stead of buying meat for gravy stock the economical housewife will 
save for the purpose all bones and trimmings from meat, even bite 



448 GRAVIES. 



of gristle and skin, and with the stock-pot in her mind's eye will 
carefully trim ofif from all roasts before putting in the oven many 
bits that will add richness to gravy, which would otherwise crisp 
and go to waste in the baking pan. All bones and trimmings from 
cold meat sho.uld be saved for this purpose also. Thus a roast 
served hot one day is sliced cold the next, and perhaps also a part 
is made into some one of the dainty dishes given in Cold Meats, 
while the bones are carefuLy broken or chopped and with the trim- 
mings and other bits of meat at hand are put over the fire with 
sufficient cold water and simmered slowly until all juices and gela- 
tinous parts are extracted. If cut into small bits this is effected 
much more quickly. Any vegetables, herbs or spices of which the 
flavor is liked maybe boiled with the meat, which should cook until 
the liquor is reduced one half, cr is a tolerably rich gravy. Then 
strain, set away to become cold, and before reheating for use remove 
all fat that rises to the top, for grease is not gravy, and an otherwise 

excellent dish is often spoiled by an oily 
coating or swimming globules of grease. 
The stock will keep better, however, if the 
fat is left on top until wanted for use. To 
Lipped sauoepaa. Hiakc thc gravy heat the stock to boil- 

ing in a lipped saucepan as it is so much easier from which to pour ; 
season with pepper and salt and flavor with any spices, catsups or 
sauces liked, being careful not to overpower the flavor of the gravy 
itself, add thickening of Roux, or Browned Flour, or if neither is 
at hand a little flour, corn-starch or arrowroot mixed smooth with a 
little cold water and pinch sugar, let boil well and serve, either poured 
over or around a dish of meat or vegetables or sent on with it in 
gravy-boat ; or serve as directed in recipes for Meats and Cold Meats. 
This prepared stock may be used for the foundation in any of 
the gravy recipes that follow, saving the time required for cooking 
the ingredients as given above. Stock will keep several days in 
cold weather, or if set in ice-box in 
summer. Or gravy may be prepared 
in small quantities each day as needed 
with a little forethought when clearing 
away the breakfast. Save aU Uquor Gravy strijner. 

from boiled meat for stock, and keep any gravy left over to serve 
again with the addition of stock and more flavoring and thickening 





GRAVIES. 449 

if necessary. If any gravy should be lumpy put through a gravy 
strainer before serving. By putting into practice a good old adage 
the wise housekeeper "who wastes not will want not" — gravies. 



Browned Flour. — Sift and spread the flour thinly and evenly 
over bottom of dripping-pan and brown on top of stove or in oven, 
stirring constantly to prevent scorching, until either a light or deep 
brown as desired. It is well to prepare a quantity at a time and 
put away in closely corked bottles or self-sealing glass jars to be 
used as needed for thickening gravies, soups and sauces wanted 
brown. A good proportion is a level tablespoon for each cup liquid. 
Use same as any flour by mixing smooth with water or butter, then 
adding to liquid. Butter and flour, mixed in equal parts and baked 
brown, is preferred by some for thickening brown gravies, but plain 
browned flour is doubtless better to use. A slice of toasted bread 
added to gravy answers for both browning and thickening, but is 
not so nice as the browned flour. Browned Onions are also used 
for coloring gravies. To prepare, peel and chop fine three medium- 
Bized onions, put in stew-pan with half pint water, boil five minutes 
add half pound moist sugar and simmer gently till mixture is a 
dark brown. Then strain it into three-fourths pint boiling vinegar, 
Btir until thoroughly mixed, and bottle. Use for flavoring and col- 
oring gravies, soups, etc. Another article used in gravies, sauces, 
etc., is the Parsley Butter on page 179, making two or three times 
the recipe, packing in a jar and keeping in a cool place ; half as 
much parsley may be used, giving a more delicate flavor, and some 
add only two tablespoons lemon juice. This is also known as 
Maitre d' hotel Butter and is a delicious dressing for steak, chops, 
etc., placed on the hot platter on which they are to be served, turn- 
ing them over in it, thus seasoning each side. 

Glaze. — Any strong meat soup or stock may be boiled down to 
jelly-like consistency and makes excellent glaze. Four quarts should 
be reduced to one quart. It may not be so fine in flavor as that 
especially prepared, but answers very well. Pig's feet, when obtain- 
able, will make nice glaze cooked with vegetables, but for a more 
delicate preparation take six pounds knuckle of veal or leg of beef, 
and half pound lean ham, cut in pieces size of an egg, rub a quarter 
pound butter on bottom of pot, which should hold two gallons ; put 
in meat with half pint water, three medium-sized onions, with two 
cloves in each, a turnip, carrot, and three or four stalks celery ; place 
over quick fire, occasionally stirring it until bottom of pot is covered 
with a thick glaze, which will adhere lightly to spoon ; then fill up 
pot with cold water, and when on boiling point, draw to back of 
stove and simmer gently three hours if veal, six if beef, carefully re- 
moving ail scum as it rises. The stock thus made, adding salt, will 
29 



450 GRAVIES. 

make a delicious foundation for all kinds of clear soup or gravies. 
To reduce to glaze pass the stock through fine hair sieve or cloth in- 
to pan; then fill up the pot containing meat, etc., with Jiot water 
and boil again four hours to obtain all the glutinous part, strain off 
stock and put with that first obtained in large stewpan, set over fire 
and boil as fast as possible with lid off, stirring occasionally to pre- 
vent boiling over. When reduced to about three pints, pour into 
small stewpan and boil more slowly until reduced to a quart, skim- 
ming if necessary, then put where it will again boil quickly and stir 
well with wooden spoon until it begins to get thick and is of a fine 
yellow-brown color, taking care not to burn. Pack in pot for use, 
or in sausage skins, which may be obtained from butcher ; cut off a yard 
of the skin, tie one end very tightly and pour in the glaze through a 
large funnel. It will be hard like jelly when cold and when wanted for 
use is cut off in slices. A thick slice dissolved in hot water makes 
a cup of nutritious soup, to which may be added any cooked vege- 
tables, rice or other ingredients liked. A piece is very nice to take 
on a Journey, especially for an invalid who does not want to depend 
on way-side hotel food, or is tired of beef-tea. Another way of 
keeping glaze is to put away in a Glaze-Kettle made for the pur- 
pose, and much like a custard-kettle. It is a tin vessel in which the 
glaze is kept, fitting into a larger one, which is filled with boiling 
water to melt glaze when wanted for use. The smaller vessel has a 
lid with a small hole in it for a brush, which is used for putting the 
glaze on meats, etc., as required. When packing in skins it is Avell 
to put a part of the glaze in a jar for this purpose, which may be set 
in kettle or pan of hot water to melt, and provide also a small stiff 
brush, or a stiff feather will do. Glaze adds greatly to the fine ap- 
pearance of many dishes. It is much used in decorating cold joints, 
hams and tongues and its use is recommended in various recipes. 

- " ^^""^^^ "^^ ^^® thus, melt the glaze and with the brush 

^"^ i^ ,,,,, j|^B cover the meat with it, going over it a second 

GiMing Brush. ^j^q jf nccessary after first coat has become 

cold. In roasting meat if it is not evenly and nicely browned, brush 
over with glaze just before serving and it will give required finish. 

Roux. — This may be made as wanted for use, but is convenient 
to have at hand. For making White Roux melt a half pound but- 
ter slowly, skim, let settle, then pour in clean saucepan over fire and 
when hot dredge in slowly two cups sifted flour. Stir rapidly until 
perfectly smooth and thoroughly cooked, but do not let brown ; some 
use an egg whisk for stirring. Put away in a jar. Brown Roux is 
made same, stirring over fire until a bright brown, but not scorch- 
ed. Use for thickening gravies, sauces, soups, stews, etc., by moist- 
ening with a little of the warm liquid then stirring into the whole, 
or put it into the cold liquid and it will dissolve as it heats ; do not 
put into hot liquid without first moistening or it will harden into 
lumps instead of dissolving. 



GRAVIES. 451 

Brown Gravy. — Before serving any roast. meat, let the gravy in 
pan dry down until grease can be poured off clear, while the glaze 
remains adhering to pan ; pour in water to dissolve it, and when it has 
]'< tiled add a trifle of Browned Flour, to thicken if necessary though 
when a roast has been well dredged with flour a thickening will not 
bo needed. Strain through a fine strainer; serve some in dish with 
the roast, the rest in sauce-boat. A Cheaii Brown Gravy which will 
be found nice for warming up any kind of cold meat is made as 
follows : Slice three onions and fry in butter a nice brown; toast a 
large, thin slice of bread slowly until quite hard and a deep brown; 
put these, with any pieces of meat, bone, etc., and some herbs, on 
the fire with a pint and a half water, and stew down until it is as 
thick as liked. Season to taste, strain, and set in a cool place until 
wanted for use. For a Rich Brown Gravy, fry two large onions 
cut in rings in two tablespoons butter until a light brown ; then add 
two pounds shin of beef and two small slices bacon, both cut in 
small square pieces, and pour in cup of water ; boil ten minutes, or 
until a nice brown color, stirring occasionly ; add three and a half 
pints water, let boil up, then draw to back of range and simmer very 
gently an hour and a half ; strain and when cold take off the fat. 
Thicken with four tablespoons flour first made smooth and lightly 
browned with three tablespoons butter in another pan, and cooled ; 
boil the gravy up quickly, season to taste and it is ready to serve. 
This thickening may be made in larger quantities and kept in stone 
jar until wanted. A Broion Gravy Without Meat is made as fol- 
lows : Slice, flour and fry two onions and one large carrot in two 
tablespoons butter till a nice light brown, add three pints boiling 
water, bunch savory herbs and pepper and salt. Stew gently about 
an hour, strain, when cold skim off all fat and stir in a thickening 
made as in preceding recipe and a few drops of Caramel Coloring. 

Economical Gravy. — Put in stewpan the chopped bones and 
trimmings of cold roast or boiled veal or beef, one and one-half 
pints water, an onion, quarter teaspoon each chopped lemon peel, 
and salt and blade mace, pounded ; simmer gently an hour or more, 
or until liquor is reduced to a pint, then strain through hair sieve. 
Add thickening of butter and flour, let it just boil up, squeeze in 
about teaspoon lemon juice, and it is ready to serve. It may be fla- 
vored with a little tomato sauce if at hand, or if dark colored gravy 
Ih wanted, catsup or any bottled sauce. Or put chopped bone and 
trimmings from any cold joint in stewpan with quarter teaspoon 
each salt, whole pepper and whole allspice, small bunch savory herbs 
and half head celery, cover with boiling water and simmer gently 
about two hours. Slice and fry an onion in tablespoon butter till a 
pale brown, and mix gradually with the gravy ; boil fifteen minutes 
and strain, put back in stewpan, flavor with walnut vinegar, catsup, 
pickled onion liquor, or any bottled sauce preferred. Thicken witha 



452 GRAVIES. 



little butter and flour mixed smooth on a plate, boil up once, and 
the gravy will be ready for use. 

Giblet Gravy. — Boil the giblets — gizzard, heart and liver — with 
the neck, in two quarts water an hour and a half, skimming if neces- 
sary and adding more water if it cooks away too much. Take out 
giblets, chop fine, return to water in saucepan, first skimming out 
neck, and add tablespoon flour mixed smooth with a little cold 
v;ater ; season and after the fowl has been taken up, add to dripping 
pan placed on top of stove, adding more water if necessary, and 
boil five minutes, stirring constantly, scraping the sides of pan to 
free the rich, savory particles that adhere. More thickening or 
seasoning may be needed and some add a little sweet majoram. If 
too much fat in dripping-pan, skimofl'before adding the giblet sauce. 
If the giblets are not liked, or are preferred served whole, the gravy 
is made same, simply omitting giblets and serving them on platter 
with the fowl. 

Horse-radish Gravy. — Mix well one tablespoon each butter and 
flour in saucepan, add pint soup or gravy stock ; let boil till flour is 
well cooked ; add three or four tablespoons prepared horse-radish, 
pinch of sugar, a little salt and white pepper if liked. Serve at 
once. If grated fresh horse-radish is used add a little vinegar to 
gravy just before serving. Milk, broth from boiled corned beef or 
water may be used instead of stock. This is one of the best of gravies. 

Maitre d' hotel Gravy. — Mix in saucepan two tablespoons Ma- 
trie d' hotel Butter and one of flour ; add pint milk or water, let 
boil and serve with boiled beef, mutton or fish. Or add only half 
pint milk and make a thick sauce known as Maitre d' hotel Sauce. 

Orange Gravy. — Put a sliced onion in stewpan with half pint 
stock, a few basil or bay leaves, three or four strips orange or lemon 
peel and simmer very gently fifteen minutes. Strain, and if not suf- 
ficiently flavored add juice of a Seville orange or lemon; season, 
add thickening of arrowroot or corn starch, boil up once and serve. 
Nice for all game. 

Piquant Gravy. — Put two tablespoons each chopped cucumber 
pickles, capers and onions in saucepan with half pint vinegar and 
stir over fire until vinegar has nearly all evaporated ; add two table- 
spoons each butter and flour rubbed smooth, two teaspoons salt, 
two saltspoons pepper and half as much cayenne, with pint boiling 
water or stock. Boil up once and serve. This is also known as 
Piquant Sauce, and a more elaborate recipe is the following : Put 
two tablespoons butter in stewpan with a small carrot and six shal- 
lots, sliced, bunch savory herbs, half bay leaf, two small slices lean 
ham, chopped fine, two cloves, six pepper-corns, blade of mace, and 
three whole allspice. Simmer all over slow fire until bottom of pan 
is covered with a brown glaze, stirring to prevent burning, and add 
four tablespoons vinegar, half pint stock, teaspoon sugar, pinch of 



COLD MEATS. 453 



cayenne and salt to taste. Simmer gently fifteen minutes, skim off 
all fat, strain and serve hot with roast meats. If not liked so acid 
use less vinegar. 

Sage Gravy. — Chop fine a half dozen large green sage leaves, 
or more if the leaves are small, with two medium-sized onions. Put 
in stewpan with butter size of walnut, sprinkle with flour, cover 
closely and let steam a few minutes. Then add teaspoon vinegar, 
some broth or gravy, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer 
till the onion is tender. Capital with roast pork. 

Veal Gravy. — Cut three pounds veal and two slices lean ham 
in small pieces, put in stewpan, moisten with little water and set 
over fire to extract juices ; when bottom of pan is covered with a 
white glaze add three pints water, bunch savory herbs, a few green 
onions or one large onion, blade of mace, salt to taste and a few 
mushrooms when obtainable. Stew very slowly three or four hours 
and skim well the moment it boils. Let cool, take off fat and re- 
heat when wanted for use. May be used as a foundation for white 
sauces, for fricassees, or wherever nice veal gravy or stock is wished. 

Venison Gravy. — Brown trimmings of venison in a little butter 
or fat over brisk fire and put with them three or four mutton shank 
bones and pint water ; simmer gently two hours, skim, strain, add 
two teaspoons walnut or any catsup, salt to taste, boil up and serve. 



Cold Meats. 



In America and England there is great prejudice against warmed- 
over food, but in France one eats it half the time in some of the 
most delicious "made dishes" without suspecting it. Herein lies the 
Becret. With us the warming over is so artlessly done, that the hard 
fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it 
reposes. One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat 
satisfactory is the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this, as well 
as its presence, depends the success of the dish. The glaze, for which 
the recipe is given under Gravies, renders one at all times independ- 
ent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be de- 
pended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast 
should be saved, and great care be taken of all scraps, bones and 
gristle, which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity 
of using glaze for every pin-pose. Do not ma'ke into "hash" all cold 



454 COLD MEATS. 



meat, as is the too common practice of so many American house- 
keepers. Hash appears to be a peculiarly American institution. In 
no other country is every remnant of cold meat turned into this one 
unvarying dish. Not only remnants but whole joints of cold meat, 
a roast of beef of which the tenderloin had sufficed for the first day's 
dinner, the leg of mutton from which a few slices only have been 
taken, the fillet of veal, available for so many delicate dishes, are 
ruthlessly turned into the all-prevading hash. The curious thing is 
that people are even fond of it. Yet hash in itself is not a bad dish ; 
it is called a peculiarly American institution, because when English 
people speak of hash, they mean something quite different — meat 
warmed in slices. Our hash, in its best form — that is, made with 
nice gravy, garnished with sippets of toast and pickleSj surrounded 
with mashed potatoes or rice — is dignified abroad by the name of 
"mince,-" and makes its appearance as an elegant little entree. Nor 
would it be anathematized in the way it is with us, if it were only 
occasionally introduced. It is the familiarity that has led to con- 
tempt. But though recipes are hereafter given for most excellent 
dishes of hash, it is better to introduce a little variety in warmed- 
over meats. Variety is as easy to produce as it is rare to meet with 
in average cooking, and depends more upon intelligence and 
thoughtfulness than upon anything else. Plenty of good well fla- 
vored gravy is an absolute necessity for the success of warmed-over 
dishes, also a variety of • seasoning, herbs, etc., though in using the 
recipes that follow, if all the seasonings mentioned are not at hand 
others may be substituted or they may be omited entirely. No good 
cook, however, will allow her stock of spices, herbs and other con- 
diments to run low, for upon these and their appropriate use de- 
pends the success of all cookery, giving that peculiar flavor charac- 
teristic of French cooking ; and another secret we may learn from them 
is the use of a Pinch of Sugar in soups, meat and vegetable dishes, 
etc. It is not added to sweeten, or even be perceptible, but it en- 
riches, softens, tones, as it were, the other ingredients as salt does. 
It is a mistaken idea to think that fat and butter in large quantities 
are necessary to good cooking. Butter and oils may be melted with- 
out changing their nature, but when cooked they become much more 
indigestible and injurious to weak stomachs. Gravy is equally if 
not more palatable and much more wholesome, though a limited 
quantity of butter, drippings or oil is almost indispensable to a well 



COLD MEATS. 455 



flavored gravy, unless it be made from good stock from boiled meat 
and vegetables, which is much better. In making warmed-over 
dishes of meat do not let the preparation boil or cook long ; simply 
become thoroughly heated, as boiling toughens re-cooked meat, and 
it is also necessary to always place in a hot frying-pan, so the heat- 
ing can be more quickly accomplished. We give below a few recipes 
which make appetizing dishes from cold meat but the ways of pre- 
paring the latter are legion, and the successful housekeeper can 
form innumerable dishes, as each recipe will suggest another even 
more edible than the first. 



Meat Batter. — Dipping slices of cold meat in the following 
batter is a much nicer way of encasing them, than to single-bread : 
Mix one and a half pints sifted flour with two tablespoons melted 
butter, and enough warm water to make a soft paste, which beat 
till smooth ; then add more warm \yater till consistency ot fritter 
batter, salt to taste, and add, just before dipping in the pieces of 
cold meat, the well-frothed whites of two eggs. Another batter nice 
for meats, dry in themselves, such as chickens, veal, etc., is to add 
to above quantity flour, yolks ot two eggs, four tablespoons oil, 
mixing with cold water and adding salt and beaten whites as above. 
When meat is prepared, fry as fritters or in frying-pan. 

Sweet Herbs.— To make the bunch of herbs called for in many 
recipes put together in palm of left hand three long sprigs parsley 
with stems crossing in fan shape, and on these lay two sprigs each 
thyme and summer savory and two bay leaves ; twist root ends of 
parsley up over other herbs and bring leaf ends down, making a 
kind of roll, which must be wound about and tied with clean twine. 
Some always add a few pepper-corns and blade of mace ; sweet mar- 
joram is also used, and sage leaves should be added for flavoring 
pork. The above is given simply as a general rule, and any com- 
bination preferred or convenient may be used. The herbs are always 
removed before serving the dish. 

Warmed- Over Boasts. — The simplest of all ways of warming a 
roast that has not been too much cut is to wrap it in thickly buttered 
paper and put in the oven again, covering closely as possible and 
leave only long enough to become thoroughly heated through. By 
keeping closely covered it will get hot in less time and the steam 
will prevent it from becoming hard and dry ; make some gravy and 
serve hot with the meat. If the gravy is good and plentiful the meat 
will be as nice as the first day, but without gravy will be an unsatis- 
factory dish. If it is not possible to cover the joint closely in the 
oven, put it in steamer over hot water ; let it get hot through and 



456 COLD MEATS. 



serve as before. Or it may then be placed in oven a few moments 
to brown. Cooking as a Pot-Roast is also a nice way ig warm it 
over. For the third day the meat may be warmed up in any of the 
ways hereafter given. 

Fried Meat. — Any kind of cold meat or chicken that can be 
cut into neat slices may be very nicely warmed over by first dipping 
in Meat Batter as above, or single-breading, and dropping into a 
kettle of hot fat, turning to brown both sides, or in butter or drip- 
pings in frying-pan. The batter, or egg and bread-crumbs forms a 
sort of crust which keeps the meat tender and juicy while it is being 
heated through. Frying (without batter or crumbs) in a pan with a 
little butter renders the meat hard and almost uneatable unless the 
pan is very hot, the meat turned almost constantly, and soon taken 
out on a hot platter and served at once. Some prefer to sprinkle 
the meat with ground spices or chopped herbs or onions before 
breading them. A tureen of good gravy should accompany meat 
prepared thus, which may be served in a circle round mashed po- 
tato, or in center of platter with gravy poured round, or in any way 
preferred. For Fried Mutton Cutlets, trim thick cutlets from cold 
leg of mutton, or chops from the loin, dip them in the Meat Batter, 
fry as above and serve in a circle round a Vegetahle Ragout made 
as follows : Stew young carrots, turnips, green pease and white 
beans gently in a little water in which the bones and trimmings of 
the meat have been cooked. Season and dish in center of platter. 
For Fried Corned Beef^ cut any part of cold corned beef into thin 
slices, fry slightly in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have 
ready some very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them 
and garnish with three or four pickled gherkins ; or heat slices in a 
little liquor from mixed pickle, drain, and serve as above. Or cut 
nice, cold roast or lean corned beef in thin slices, and lay them in 
mustard and vinegar a few hours ; double-bread and fry in hot lard. 
For breading meats see Croquettes, page 299. 

Meat Pic. — Take cold beef or veal, chop and season as for hash ; 
have ready hot mashed potatoes seasoned for table, and put in a 
shallow baking dish first a layer of meat, then layer of potatoes, and 
so on, till dish is heaping full ; smooth over top of potatoes, dot with 
bits of butter and bake until a nice brown. Some sprinkle top with 
bread-crumbs. Or chop a quart of any cold meat fine ; season high- 
ly with salt and pepper, and put into a buttered, earthen baking dish. 
Chop a peeled onion very fine, fry it for two minutes with a table- 
spoon drippings, and pour over the meat. While chopping the meat 
and frying the onion, stew any bones from the meat in a cup cold 
gravy, or use water if no gravy is at hand, and strain it over the 
meat and onion ; cover meat an inch thick with cold mashed pota- 
toes, smooth top, brush it over Avith beaten egg, and bake the pie 
twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 



COLD MEATS. 457 




Meat Roll. — Chop any cold meat very fine, add an equal quan- 
tity mashed potato, or finely -chopped boiled potato, one egg, a little 
chopped onion and «eason with salt and pepper and a pinch sugar. 
Make into a roll nine inches long and three inches wide, or any size 
wished ; place in frying-pan with a little hot drip- 
^?^ pings or lard and brown all around turning as 
needed ; or bake in oven. Serve hot on platter 
Meat Roll. surrouudcd by a uicc gravy, made in the pan, or 

little onion pickles. It is nice for tea or lunch sliced cold, and gar- 
nished with red pickled beets. For Veal Roll, chop as above, sea- 
son with a teaspoon each finely minced lemon peel and mace, table- 
spoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper, stir in beaten yolks of three 
eggs, add half cup gravy and cup bread-crumbs; it should be just 
soft enough to handle without running into a shapeless mass. Flour 
the hands and make it into a roll about three times as long as it is 
broad ; flour the outside well and lay it in a greased baking pan, 
cover and set in oven until smoking hot, when remove the cover and 
brown quickly. Then brush over with white of egg, and return to 
oven a minute or two, dish as above using a pan-cake lifter, and 
garnish with croutons, (see soups) pouring a rich gravy over all. 

3feat Turnovers. — Make dough as for soda biscuit, roll thin and 
cut in circles large or small as liked. Upon these put any kind 
of cold cooked meat or game chopped fine, seasoned with pepper 
and salt, catsup and sweet herbs and moistened well with cream or 
melted butter ; lay the meat on one side and turn over the other, 
moistening and pinching edges together carefully. These can be 
steamed, baked, or fried as Fritters, and are very good cold. When 
preparing for picnics, bake them. Some heat the meat with a little 
broth or water, seasoning as above and thickening with a little flour. 
If steamed, place turnovers on a buttered plate and set in steamer. 

Ragout of Meat. — Slice cold meat, put in a stewpan in which an 
onion has been sliced, or several if liked ; squeeze half a lemon in, 
or add tablespoon vinegar, cover closely without water, and when 
it begins to cook, set pan on back of stove for three-quarters of an 
hour, shaking oocasionlly. The onions should now be brown ; take 
out meat, dredge in a little flour, stir ii round, and add a cup gravy, 
pepper, salt and a small quantity of any sauce or flavoring preferred ; 
stew gently a minute or two, then put the meat back to get hot, and 
serve ; garnish with croutons or pickles. 

Meat and Potato Puffs. — Take cold roast meat — beef or mutton, 
or veal and ham together — cut all gristle away, chop fine and season 
with pepper and salt, and chopped pickles, if liked. Boil and mash 
eome potatoes, make them into a paste with an egg, roll out, dredg- 
ing with flour, and cut round with a saucer; put some of the season- 
ed meat upon one half, and fold the other over like a puff; pinch 
neatly round and fry a light brown. 



458 



COLD MEATS. 



Meat with Eggs. — Take pieces of any cold roast meat, trim off 
fat and mince very fine. Fry a small onion, chopped fine, in plenty 
of butter ; when a light brown add a teaspoon flour, a little stock or 
gravy, the minced meat with chopped parsley, salt, pepper and nut- 
meg to taste. Mix well, add a little more stock if necessary and heat 
gradually on back of range; lastly add a few drops lemon juice; 
serve on small squares of bread fried in butter and place a poached 
egg on top of each, or serve the meat in center with poached eggs 
over it, and toasted bread around with chopped parsley on the squares. 

Broiled Beef. — Peel four or five potatoes, then cut round them 
as though paring an apple, season with salt and pepper and dip the 
Btrips thus made into a thin batter and fry in hot fat a nice brown. 
Cut neat slices from a cold roast of beef, season well, dip in melted 
butter, broil quickly and serve on hot platter with the prepared 
potato over them. Or broil the beef as above, and lay in hot dish 
on a tablespoon melted butter, sprinkle with mushroom powder, and 
garnish with border Saratoga potatoes. For Broiled Beef with 
Oyster Sauce, put two dozen oysters in etewpan, with their liquor 
strained ; add three cloves, blade of mace, two tablespoons butter, 
half teaspoon flour, and seasoning of pepper and salt ; simmer gently 
five minutes. Have ready in the center of dish round walls of mashed 
potatoes, browned ; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite hot, 
and round the potatoes place layers of slices of cold "oast beef, which 
should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire. 

Stewed Beef. — Peel and cut two large onions into thin slices, 
put in stewpan with two tablespoons butter, set over slow fire and 
stir until brown, but not in the least burnt, add teaspoon browned 
flour, mix smoothly, moisten with a half pintbroth, or water with a 
small piece of glaze, and add three saltspoons salt, or less if broth 
was salted, two of sugar and one of pepper. Put in thin slices of 
cold lean beef, set on back of stove five minutes to heat through and 
serve on very hot dish garnished with fried potatoes or croutons. 
The onions may be omitted and a tablespoon Chili sauce added ; or 
for an Irish Stew add sliced potatoes with the onions, omitting the 
sauce. Or for any of the stews flavor to taste with spoonful tarra- 
gon or plain vinegar, or a teaspoon mushroom powder, or pinch of 
curry, or a few sweet herbs. 

Boston Hash. — Take equal parts cold corned beef and any kind 
cold poultry chopped fine. To one pint of each add raw yolks of 
two eggs, tablespoon butter, quart potatoes, peeled and mashed, an 
onion peeled and grated, and enough hot water or gravy of any kind 
to moisten ; season with salt and cayenne, stir in the well-beaten 
whites, and put the hash in a buttered pudding dish and bake in 
quick oven half an hour ; serve hot in dish in which it was baked. 



COLD MEATS. 459 



For Fried Hash, take a pint each chopped meat and potato : chop 
an onion fine and brown it in two tablespoons butter in hot frying- 
pan, add a gill of stock and when this is hot put in the chopped 
meat and potato ; season with pepper and salt and stir over fire un- 
til very hot. Serve heaped high in vegetable dish with a piece of 
butter placed in a hole on top made by pushing down with bowd of 
spoon. Some prefer to use more potato, and the onion maybe omit- 
ted if not liked. Another way of serving is after stirring over fire 
until very hot to spread smoothly over the pan and set back where 
the hash may brown slowly, which should take about half an hour. 
When done fold like an omelet, turn on a hot dish and garnish with 
points of toast and parsley. Any cold beef or other meat or a mix- 
ture may be used for this dish and if mashed potato is left over 
some use instead of the chopped. 

Beef Loaf . — Add to one pint cold hashed beef seasoned to taste 
with pepper, salt, cloves and cinnamon, three or four rolled crackers 
or same quantity dry bread-crumbs, and two eggs, with meat stock 
to moisten; bake twenty-five minutes. When cold slice for tea. 

Beef Patties. — Cut cold beef, or any kind of cold meat into 
very small square bits, season well with salt, pepper and a little 
gravy and chopped onion. Roll out a nice plain paste rather thin, 
fill with the meat, close in patty-shape and fry, or bake a light 
brown. Or line patty-pans with the paste, put in the meat, cover 
with paste and bake. Or the paste may be omitted from top and 
bread crumbs with bits of butter, sprinkled over. To make without 
fhe paste put the prepared meat in patty-pans, half filling them, 
cover with mashed Jjotato, put bit butter on each and brown in oven. 

Beef Pudding. — Mince a pound or more of cold roast beef, mix 
with a teaspoon salt, sprinkling of pepper, and tablespoon flour. 
Make an ordinary pudding paste, fill it with the above mixture, put 
in not quite quarter pint water, and tablespoon chopped parsley and 
onion mixed; tie in a cloth, and boil about seventy minutes. If 
liked, add chopped pickles, or a little good, well-seasoned vinegar. 

Beef Railages. — When breakfast is over gather the good bits 
of steak, roast or any kind of beef left, and taking off superfluous 
fat, put beef into a pot with enough boiling water to cover, adding 
mustard, celery salt, pepper, cinnamon and cassia buds, if all or any 
are liked, or fresh bits of celery and sprigs of parsley, instead of 
celery salt, also a little onion if desired. Simmer meat all fore- 
noon, adding boiling water from time to time as needed. When 
thoroughly tender, juicy and brown, take up, slip out bones, chop 
meat fine adding enough of the gravy to make it like thick mush. 
Take out of the hash bowl, and place on a clean white cloth and form 
into long roll about three inches in diameter. Wrap and press the 



460 COLD MEATS. 



cloth tightly about it, several thicknesses, to keep the roll in form. 
Secure it with cord and place the roll in ice box, if warm weather, 
out in the cold, if cool ; in a few hours the meat will have cooled and 
hardened and can be cut in nice slices like tongue. Lamb and veal 
can be used in same way. Meat prepared in this way is good either 
before or after bones are removed as a hot stew with brown gravy 
for dinner, or serve hot just after chopping as Spiced Meat on load. 

Beef with Macaroni. — Chop lean or cold roast beef or steak very 
fine, separating it first from all fat; nearly fill a pudding dibh with 
cold boiled or baked macaroni; put the chopped b^^ef in the center, 
flavored with salt, pepper, thyme, and, if liked, a little liquor poured 
from canned tomatoes. Pour soup stock or gravy over beef and 
macaroni, cover with bread crumbs, over which j)our two table- 
spoons melted butter and bake half an hour. 

Beef with Oysters. — Cut rather thick steaks from cold sirloin or 
ribs of beef; brown them lightly in stew pan, with two tablespoons 
butter and a little water ; add one half pint water, a sliced onion, 
pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely and simmer very gently 
for half an hour ; then mix about a teaspoon flour smoothly with a 
little of the liquor; add one or two dozen oysters, having previously 
strained their liquor into the stewpan ; stir till the oysters are 
plump, then serve. Do not boil after oysters are added, as it toughens 
them. For Beef and Oyster Pie, place some slices cold boiled pota- 
toes in pudding dish and pour in the above ; cover with good paste 
with an opening in center, and bake one hour. Omit onions if 
wished. 

Beef with Tomatoes. — Fry two small onions, chopped, in two 
tablespoons butter ; then add eight or nine tomatoes, cut fine, and 
season with salt, pepper and herbs if liked. When tomatoes are 
cooked, add pint chopped cold meat and serve when heated through. 

Fried Lamb. — Neatly trim slices of cold roast lamb and fry in 
butter a pale brown. Serve on a puree of cucumber or spinach. 
Or single-bread them and fry in hot lard till a light brown and serve 
with a gravy poured over, flavored with a few drops lemon juice 
aud a little nutmeg. Mutton or veal prepared same way. 

Mashed Mutton. — Cut cold roast or boiled mutton in slices about 
half an inch thick, and cover both slices with sauce made as follows : 
put two tablespoons butter in frying pan, and when melted add one 
of flour and stir until smooth ; add gradually one cup stock and two 
tablespoons glaze, boil one minute, and stir in yolks of two eggs , 
season with salt, pepper, and tablespoon lemon juice, and remove 
from fire at once. Season the mutton with salt and pepper and as 
soon as the sauce begins to cool, dip slices in it and roll in fine 
bread crumbs. Beat one whole egg and two whites together, dip 
the sauced mutton in this and again in the crumbs, and fry and 
drain as Fritters. Serve with either tomato or tartare sauce. 
Masked Beef or Veal cooked in same way. 



COLD MEATS. 461 



Scalloped Mutton — Cut about a pound cold roast or boiled mut" 
ton into very small pieces, not much larger or thicker than a silver 
quarter; stew the bone half an hour or more, to make a pint of 
broth ; strain it and simmer with the mutton half an onion, pepper 
and salt for fifteen minutes, adding two tablespoons butter and four 
of flour rubbed together two or three minutes, before taking up. 
Butter the lower part of a two-quart pudding dish, and put in a thin 
layer of mashed i^otatoes, then half of the mutton, a thicker layer 
of potato, the rest of the mutton, and a last layer of potato, which 
must be glazed with yolk of an egg ; bake until thoroughly heated. 
Mutton Rissoles. — Chop fine a half pound cold mutton and two 
ounces beef suet ; mix with three ounces boiled rice, season with 
salt and pepper and roll into small rolls or any shapes fancied, sin- 
gle-bread them and fry a nice brown in hot fat. Serve with a gravy 
poured round them and a little in a tureen. Or for Mutton. Bcdls, 
omit the suet, make into balls and tie each in a piece of cabbage 
leaf; pat in hot water and boil half an hour ; serve hot. 

Mutton Relish. — Take pieces cold mutton and place in the 
bottom of a meat mold which has a perforated 
lid that sinks well into the mold and is screwed 
in place by a valve-pipe ; season, add some 
broth or gravy, put on lid, and on top place 
nicely seasoned mashed potatoes mixed with 
little milk ; smooth over and dot the surface 
with capers if liked. Bake in oven till brown. The potatoes retain 
all the savory steam rising from the meat, and it is a delicious dish. 
Fresh mutton cutlets or pieces of the round of beef are nice prepared 
in this way, adding a few bits of butter to the meat. 

Ragout of Mutton — Slice two each turnips, carrots and onions ; 
put in saucepan with two tablespoons butter, and brown them. 
Dust in little flour and stir the whole to prevent browning too 
quickly, and turn out upon a hot dish until wanted. Cut up cold 
roast mutton into s(]uare pieces and brown on each side in same 
pan in which vegetables were cooked ; then add half pint hot water, 
salt and pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the sliced vegetables. 
Stew gently until vegetables are tender ; arrange the vegetables in 
center of dish, with the meat as a border, pour the sauce over all 
and serve. When in season, green pease may be substituted for the 
turnips and carrots ; they should be served piled in center of dish 
Avith the chops around. 

Pork Cake. — Cut meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast 
pork, and mince it very fine ; mix with it two large potatoes freshly 
boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a 
little powdered sage. Add two or three eggs and a little milk, sufii- 
cient to make a very thick batter. Fry the cake like an omelet, or 
bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. 




462' COLD MEATS. 



Pork Cutlets. — Cut the remains of cold roast loin of pork into 
nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat, and chop two onions. Put 
tablespoon butter in stewpan, lay in the cutlets and chopped onions, 
and fry a light brown ; then add a half pint gravy, tablespoon ilour, 
pepper and salt to taste and teaspoon vinegar and mustard, simmer 
gently five or seven minutes and serve. Garnish with large cucum- 
ber pickles sliced crosswise, three-quarters of an inch thick. This 
is also a nice garnish for Fried Salt Pork, serving a ring or two with 
the meat. 

Ham Pie. — Pick cold ham into small fine pieces ; boil a cup 
rice, beat up two eggs and stir in with the ham and rice ; season 
with pepper, salt and onions, put into a deep pan with crust and 
bake. 

JETam Relish. — Cut small slices of cold ham and fr}^ in their 
own fat. Place in a warm dish and keep covered while preparing 
this sauce : Take two teaspoons made mustard, generous pinch of 
pepper, teaspoon white sugar, half cup vinegar, half teaspoon corn- 
starch, mix well and add to gravy in the pan ; boil up once or twice 
and pou:r hot over ham. Cover and send to table. 

Scalloped Ham. — Chop fine the scraps left from boiled ham, 
add some of the fat also chopped, and put in an earthen pudding 
dish, first a layer of bread-crumbs, then a layer of mixed fat and 
lean, then another layer of crumbs, and so on till all are used, putting 
a few bits of fat over top ; pour over it a little water, or a dressing 
of some kind, and set in oven till a nice brown. This is delicious 
for breakfast or for picked up dinner, after having made a Ham 
Soup from the bone, well cracked and simmered for three hours 
with a few sliced potatoes and rice, or dried corn and beans which have 
first been soaked and parboiled. 

Ham with Currant Jelly. — Put half glass of currant jelly, a 
small bit of butter and a little pepper in saucepan; when hot, put 
in thinly-sliced boiled ham and let thoroughly heat and serve at 
once. For Ham ivith Vinegar, cut cold ham thin and broil it ; place 
on platter and pour over two or three spoonfuls hot vinegar and 
pepper. If vinegar is very strong, add a little water. 

Molded Veal. — Mince three-fourths pound cold roast veal very 
fine, after removing from it all skin and outside pieces, and chop a 
small slice of bacon ; mix these well together and add a third of a - 
teaspoon minced lemon peel, half an onion chopped fine, salt, pep- 
per and pounded mace to taste and a slice of toast soaked in milk. 
When all are thoroughly mixed, beat up an egg with which to bind 
the mixture. Butter a pudding dish, put in the meat, and baketnree- 
quarteraofan hour; turn it out of the mold carefully, and pour 
round it a good brown gravy, or set dish in pan of water and cook 



COLD MEATS. 463 



for an hour on top of stove, then spread over with beaten egg, sift 
with bread-crumbs and brown in oven. A sheep's head may be 
dressed in this manner and is an economical and savory dish. 

Veal Fatties. — Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one- 
third ham to two-thirds veal, add an egg, boiled hard and chopped, 
and a seasoning of mace, salt, pepper, and lemon peel ; moisten with 
a little gravy and cream. Make a good puff paste, roll rather thin 
and cut into round or square pieces ; put the mince between two of 
these, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. 
They may be also baked in patty-pans, when they should be brushed 
over with yolk of egg before put in oven. Oysters may be substi- 
tuted for the ham. 

Yeal Relish. — Make a sauce of milk or water, a large onion, 
sliced, a slice of salt pork or ham if liked, also a little sliced cucum- 
ber ; add sliced cold veal and thicken with yolks of one or two eggs, 
added after the whole has simmered twenty minutes, and it must 
not boil after the eggs are added. In winter chop a teaspoon pick- 
led cucumber or capers and add just before sending to table. When 
sliced cucumber is used add juice of half a lemon the last thing. 
The dish may be varied by adding sometimes a few chopped oysters, 
mushrooms or celery. Celery should be put in with the onion be- 
fore the meat. 

Veal with Macaroni. — Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet 
of veal, trim off the brown outside, and mince the meat finely with 
three tablespoons chopped ham for every three-fourths pint veal; 
should the meat be very dry, add tablespoon good gravy. Season 
highly with pepper and salt, add quarter teaspoon grated nutmeg 
and quarter pint bread-crumbs, and mix these ingredients with one 
or two well-beaten eggs, which should bind the mixture and make 
it like force-meat. In the meantime, boil a quarter pound macaroni 
in salt and water and drain it ; butter a mold, put some of the maca- 
roni at the bottom and sides, in whatever form liked ; mix the re- 
mainder with the force-meat, fill the mold up to the top, put a plate 
or small dish on it, and steam for half an hour. Turn out carefully, 
and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the meat. 

Chicken Sandwiches. — After cutting off top of a French Roll, 
remove carefully the crumb from the inside. Cut in small dice 
cold boiled chicken and tongue, half and half, and twice as much 
celery as meat ; mixed with any salad dressing liked and fill the 
roll covering with the cut off top. These are nice for either luncheon 
or when traveling, and cold cooked lobster, cut in dice and mixed 
as above, may also be used. 

Ham Sandwiches. — Chop fine cold, boiled bam, and mix with 
the yolks of raw eggs, a little pepper and mustard and spread be- 
tween thin slices of bread and roll up in a roll like a napkin. 
Or add melted butter and cream to the chopped ham until 



464 COLD MEATS. 




smooth like a paste, omitting the egg. Season well with salt and 
pepper and spread between buttered slices of bread. Some chop the 
ham i^ery fine, season with tablespoon each 
- olive oil and lemon juice and a little cayenne 
^__„_--_„^^ and mustard, then rub through a sieve and 
Ham sandwicncs. sprcad betwccn thc sllccs. A nice way of mak- 

ing sandwiches when ham has to be boiled for the purpose instead 
of using cold remains, is to chop it very fine while yet warm, fat and 
lean together, with an equal quantity lean veal, boiled or roasted ; 
rub dry mustard with it to taste,with a pinch of cayenne, and a clove 
of garlic chopped, greatly improves it ; add as much sweet butter as 
would be spread on bread for sandwiches and mix well ; have some 
cold soda biscuit ; cut in two and spread the mixture between, or 
use muffins instead, or bread may be used. These are very nice for 
a picnic or festival table, and not half the work of those made in the 
usual way, as it saves buttering the bread. 

Lunch Sandwiches. — Chop sardines, ham and a few pickles 
quite fine ; mix with mustard, pepper, salt, vinegar, and catsup if 
liked ; spread between bread nicely buttered. ^ Cut crosswise. 

Mixed Sandwiches. — Chop fine some cold boiled ham, a little 
fat with the lean ; add equal part tongue and chicken also chopped 
fine ; make a dressing of a half pound butter, three tablespoons salad 
oil, three of mustard, yolk of one egg, and a little salt ; mix well to- 
gether and spread smoothly on thin slices of bread. Ham alone may 
be prepared thus. Either mixturies very nice. 

Reception Sandwiches. — Take equal quantities of the breast of 
a cold boiled chicken and cold boiled tongue, chop very fine, so fine 
in fact that the separate particles cannot be distinguished, add a 
half teaspoon celery salt, a pinch of cayenne, teaspoon anchovy 
paste and four tablespoons mayonnaise dressing. This quantity 
will be enough to season the breast of one large chicken and an equal 
quantit) of tongue. When perfectly cold, spread some thin slices 
of buttered bread with this mixture. Or take a few small leaves of 
lettuce, dip each leaf in a little tarragon vinegar, shake it, and place 
it on a slice of bread ; spread a layer of the prepared meat over the 
lettuce, then another leaf of lettuce over the meat, and add other 
glice of bread, trim off the crust and cut each sandwich in two. Ham 
and veal make a nice Salad Sandwich. The meat may be spread on 
the bread and the lettuce in the center, if preferred. Nicer not pre- 
pared till ready to serve. Some prefer to pound the meat, after chop- 
ping coarsely, add lump of butter and season with salt, pepper, nut- 
meg and ground mace, instead of the mayonnaise. Spread this 
paste on thin slices of buttered bread, cut square, put two together. 
and cut again crosswise into triangles, which form on dishes into 
any fancy shape and send to table. 



MUSH. 465 



MUSH. 



The growing popularity of the various mushes as a breakfast 
dish demands that the different ways of preparing, serving etc., 
should be well known to every housekeeper. They are either boiled 
or steamed and for the finer meals as Graham, gluten, rye, etc., the 
nicer way is to cook in a custard kettle, rather than an ordinary one 
as most of them require long cooking. The 
inner kettle can be placed on stove while the 
meal is being added in order that the salted 
water may be kept hoiling all the time, as this 
is very important, for the meal must be scald- 
ed at once and commence to cook immediate- 
Custard Kettle. ly and if thc watcr ceases to boil, meal 

must not be added till it boils again. When thick enough, stir 
for a few minutes to prevent settling in a mass at the bottom, 
then place in outer kettle for three or four hours. Only a small 
quantity must be stirred in at a time, sifting slowly through the 
fingers, as if it thickens too quickly the meal cannot thorough- 
ly cook and the mush will have a raw taste and also be 
lumpy ; this is especially true of corn meal. Mushes should be 
stirred as little as possible after all the meal is added, as stirring 
breaks up the particles and frees the starchy matter rendering the 
mush a pasty-wax and destroying the light, spongy, delicate appear- 
ance it should present ; and for this reason cooking in a custard ket- 
tle is better for the finer meals except corn meal ; that can be thui 
30 




466 MUSH. 

cooked, only it is generally made in too large a quantity, and so 
making in an ordinary kettle and baking as given in recipeis recom- 
mended. Covering and placing on back of range on top of bricks 
will enable any mush to cook slowly without fear of burning. Some 
make in a kettle and then put in a pan and place in steamer. Dif- 
ferent sizes of hard-wood paddles should be kept with which to stir 
mushes, and great care must be taken that the latter are not lumpy. 
For the coarser grains as oatmeal, cracked wheat, hominy, etc., some 
process of steaming is best as they are better not to be stirred ; the 
patent steamer, custard kettle or a tin pail, or even a strong muslin 
sack placed in a kettle of boiling water, may be utilized. Just before 
serving any mush, some stir in a piece of butter, or a spoonful or 
two of cream and a pinch of sugar. The coarser grains may be soaked 
overnight in cold water, keeping covered, then steaming in same wa- 
ter ; but the flavor is somewhat impaired by so doing. If not soaked, 
they can be mixed with either hot or cold water but will cook quick- 
er if with cold. We give below a table, showing proportions and 
time of cooking in patent steamer. A custard kettle or tin pail 
would require half again as long. In steaming always keep the 
water boiling rapidly and serve the moment steamer is removed 
from fire, else water will collect. As tastes vary in the thickness of 
mush liked, one can add to, or take from the quantity of water given, 
only remembering that it should not be too thick, nor so thin as to 
spread much when served. If fruit is to be added it is always bet- 
ter to cook it separately in a very little water and stir in just before 
serving. Fruit juice or sauce, or cream and sugar, or butter and 
syrup may be served with mushes, making a most palatable break- 
fast dish either as a first or last course. All the mushes and steamed 
grains can be fried when cold either by single-breading and frying 
like Fritters, or simply roll in flour or corn meal, letting the pieces 
lie in it awhile to become well coated, or neither bread nor flour the 
slices. The frying by immersion is much the nicer way but some 
fry in just enough butter, or any fat liked, to prevent burning. 
Either makes a delicious breakfast dish. A quart of cold mush 
makes about a dozen slices or rings, but the rings are much hand- 
somer when served, and are made by putting the hot mush in round 
cans, as described in Corn Meal Mush. By adding a batter of milk, 
eggs, a little flour and pinch of salt, to any cold mush or steamed 
grains delicious Griddle Cakes will result, or using a stifier batter, 



MUSH. 467 

Rolls, Gems, etc., can be made. For best meals to buy see Market* 
ing, and for their care, The Store Room. 

GRAIN. WATER. TIME. 

Pearl or crushed barley 1 cup 2 cups 3)^ hours. 

Coarse hominy 1" 4 '^ 4 " 

Fine " ....1 " 3K " 4 " 

Samp 1" 4>^ " 2% " 

Cracked wheat or Wheaten Grits 1 " .3>^ " 4 " 

Oatmeal 1" 4 " 3 " 



Cerealine Mush. — This is made from a preparation of com 
known as cerealine or shredded maize, and a number of other nice 
dishes are also made from it, as griddle cakes, rolls, muffins, etc., 
using it in place of flour or meal. For the mush or porridge, take 
one quart milk or half milk and water, salt to taste, and when boil- 
ing thicken with one pint cerealine, cooking three or four minutes. 
Serve hot, or better cold ; dot the top of dish with bits of currant 
jelly or any kind liked, and eat with cream and sugar. For Fried 
Cerealine use equal quantities cerealine and water, two tablespoons 
butter and teaspoon salt. When cold, slice, dip in salted beaten egg, 
then in dry ceraline, and fry as directed in preface. 

Corn Meal Mush. — For the best manner of preparing meal see 
page 32 Some prefer the yellow variety, others the white ; put four 
quarts fresh water in a kettle to boil, salt to suit the taste ; when it 
begins to boil stir in one and one-half quarts meal in the manner 
as directed in preface, sifting it in a little faster at the last, until aa 
thick as can be conveniently stirred with one hand, let cook five 
minutes stirring constantly ; set in the oven in a kettle or take out 
into a pan, bake an hour or two, and it will be thoroughly cooked. 
It takes corn meal so long to cook that it is very difficult to boil it 
until done without burning ; hence Baked Mush is much easier 
made. For stirring use a hard-wood paddle two feet long, with a 
blade two inches wide and seven inches long. The thorough cook- 
ing and baking in oven afterwards takes away all the raw taste that 
mush is apt to have, and adds much to its sweetness and delicious 
flavor. Some brush the inside of kettle over with lard or drippings 
before adding water, thinking it lessens the tendency to burn, and 
the mush does not adhere so to the kettle, causing a waste. After 
mush is made, instead of baking, the kettle can be covered and set on 
back of range as directed. For Philadelphia Mush put two quarta 
Vater in kettle, when boiling ; stir in slowly a little at a time of the 
following mixture : one quart each corn meal and cold milk or water, 
and level tablespoon salt, beaten to a smooth paste. Let cook 
twenty-five minutes, stirring often ; or is better placed on the bricks 
or in oven, when it will not need to be stirred, and should then cook 



V" 468 MUSH. 

an hour or more. Serve with cream or milk, and buttermilk is 
liked by some. A little flour is sometimes added to mush. For 
Fried Mush take from any of the above preparations when ready 
to serve; place in a crock, pan or a round can (baking powder can 
is nice) first rinsed with cold water or slightly greased; and some 
after smoothing the top brush over lightly with a little melted lard 
or butter to prevent a crust from forming. When cold, cut in 
rings (slices from the round roll from can) or in slices trom pan 
and fry as directed ; if wished very crisp, slice thin and fry in little 
fat in the frying-pan. In making corn meal mush as well as all 
mushes that are stirred, the one important rule is to have water 
boiling, for this reason a good fire is necessary, and keep it thus 
while sifting in meal ; as unless the meal is cooked as it is stirred 
in, no amount of after cooking will take away the raw taste. 

Gluten Mush. — Put inner kettle of custard kettle on stove with 
three pints water, and when boiling sift in, as directed in preface, 
one pint gluten. When ready, place in outer kettle and cook four 
or five hours. This is one of the most delicate of mushes, and is 
made of what is known as dark gluten ; the light gluten being used 
more especially for puddings. 

Farina Mush. — Stir into three pints boiling water half pint fa- 
rina. Cook as directed in any of the recipes for Graham Mush, ad- 
ding the spoonful or two of cream as directed in preface. 

Graham Mush. — Use what is known as No. 2 Graham, being 
ground a little coarser than No. 1. which is used for bread. Make 
like Gluten, except take a heaping pint to three pints water, and it 
need not cook more than an hour in custard kettle, but longer boil- 
ing greatly improves it. Or make in an ordinary kettle ; when done 
place on back of stove, or take out in pan and place in steamer for 
three or four hours and serve. Some make in saucepan and cook 
from fifteen to twenty minutes after meal is added ; set off fire a few 
minutes, as it will then be less likely to adhere to pan, and serve. A 
few dates or raisins may be stirred in ten minutes before it is done : 
or if steamed as above, either in custard kettle or patent steamer, 
add them when the mush is ready to be placed in outer kettle or 
steamer. Serve hot, or for Molded Graham Mush pour in cups and 
serve cold. May be fried as directed. 

Granula Mush. — This is a preparation of wheat which makes 
a very wholesome and palatable mush, and as it is already twice 
cooked does not take long to prepare. Put one quart water in 
saucepan, salt to taste, when boiling sift in one scant pint granula 
as directed ; cook five minutes and serve. Milk or half milk and 
water may be used. Too much cannot be said in praise of this. 

Rye Mitsh. — Make in saucepan or ordinary kettle as Granula, 
except take one pint to a quart water, sifting in as directed. Cook 



MUSH. 469 

ten minutes, stirring constantly, and serve. Use the meal, not the 
flour ; the latter is used for bread, although some prefer the meal 
both for mush and bread. 

Hominy. — There are several kinds, the Hulled Hominy, which 
we give in vegetables and the Coarse Hominy, which is cooked as 
Cracked Wheat except taking a pint to three pints water. The Fine 
Hominy or Grits is cut in smaller pieces and cooked as above, some 
using less water. The addition of the tablespoon or two of cream, 
as directed in preface, is especially nice for hominy and barley. 
Samp^ which is the third variety and is cut very much finer than 
the grits, is cooked in same way, taking a pint to two quarts water, 
and will steam in about three hours ; or either kind may be simply 
cooked an hour in an ordinary kettle, and is nice either warm or 
cold with cream and sugar, or maybe served as a vegetable with any 
meat. A much-prized dish is Fried Hominy ; slice when cold and 
fry in frying pan or on a greased griddle. Frying like Fritters is 
not so nice for the coarse grains, as they crumble so easily. 

Oatmeal. — To be wholesome this must be well cooked, and not the 
pasty, half-cooked mass sometimes served. There are a few persons 
with very delicate digestive powers Avho should only eat the Pearled 
Oatmeal (the outer husks of the grain being irritating). This and 
the Rolled Oatmeal are better for mush, while the finer, almost a 
flour is better for cakes, rolls, etc. When made in ordinary kettle 
have three pints boiling water, and stir in slowly cup of oatmeal 
(some wet it before adding), season with salt and boil an hour ; if 
too stiff add more hot water, or if too thin cook longer. But it is 
better cooked in a custard kettle, when cook as Gluten Mush, using 
one pint to two quarts water, sifting slowly into the salted, boiling 
water as directed in preface, and placing in the outer kettle for 
three or four hours. For New York Mush., mix half pint oatmeal 
in quart boiling milk in custard kettle, add quart boiling water and 
cook an hour and a half, season with salt and serve. Or With 
Onions., cook till tender one sliced onion in one quart milk, add 
half pint oatmeal mixed smooth in half pint milk ; cook an hour, 
season and serve with meat. For Jellied Oatmeal boil in custard 
kettle three heaping tablespoons meal in quart milk two or three 
hours. A few raisins, stoned dates or fresh fruit may be added ; 
cool in cups and serve with fruit juice or cream and sugar. For 
Steamed Oatmeal., add half pint to one quart cold water and tea 
spoon salt, place in pan and steam in patent steamer or in steamer 
over a kettle of water or in a custard kettle from three to five hours. 
This is the easiest and best way of cooking oatmeal. 



470 . MUSHROOMS. 



MUSHROOMS. 



Althongli considerable prejudice exists against mushrooms be- 
cause of the difficulty hitherto experienced by some in distinguish- 
ing between the edible and poisonous kinds, it is considered by 
many one of the greatest delicacies of our tables, and its richness 
in nitrogenous elements renders it one of the most nutritious of 
vegetables. In Europe at least fifty varieties are grown and used 
as food. For directions for selecting mushrooms and distinguish- 
ing between the edible and poisonous varieties see Marketing. 
Those, however, who are not skilled in detecting the character of 
mushrooms should apply still further tests. Sprinkle salt in the 
spongy part or gill of the mushrooms, and if they turn yellow they 
are poisonous, but if the salt turns them black they are good ; allow 
a little time for the salt to act before deciding as to the color pro- 
duced. Another simple and efficient test is to cook a peeled white 
onion with the mushrooms ; if it turns black they are poisonous 
and should be thrown away« If a silver spoon used in stirring 
them turns black they should also be rejectedo Another simple 
test, claimed to be sure, is to rub a gold ring over the skin of the 
mushroom until bruised ; should the bruise turn yellow or orange 
color the mushroom is poisonous, but otherwise can be safely 
cooked. Mushrooms should be carefully looked over before cook- 
ing and either wiped all over with a flannel cloth, which some first 
dust with salt, or shaken about in cold water^ to free them from all 
dirt and grit. They are cooked in a variety of ways, and are always 
a favorite accompaniment with broiled steaks. They are also much 
used in warming over cold meats, recipes for which we have given 



MUSHROOMS. 471 



in that department. But they are not a necessity to any dish, and 
any recipes in Meats and Cold Meats can be prepared without them. 



Baked Mushrooms . — The mushroom flaps are better for baking 
than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off a portion of 
etalk, peel top, and wipe mushrooms carefully with a piece of flannel 
and a little fine salt and put in baking dish tops down, with small 
piece butter in each ; sprinkle over a little pepper, and bake about 
twenty minutes, or longer should mushrooms be very large, basting 
several times with butter and water. Have ready a very hot dish, 
pile the mushrooms high in the center, squeeze a few drops lemon 
juice over, pour the gravy round, and send to table quickly on hot 
plates. Or place the mushrooms on oval croutons, in baking pan ; 
season with salt, white pepper, and lemon juice, and chopped par- 
sley if liked, and cook in a hot oven five orsix minutes, basting often 
with rich hot gravy in which a lump of butter has been melted. If 
a lump of butter is placed on each they will not need basting. Ar- 
range croutons on dish, and pour the gravy over. Or leave stalks 
on large open mushrooms, paring them to a point ; wash well and 
turn on sieve or cloth to drain. Put into stewpan two tablespoons 
butter, some chopped parsley, and shallots, and fry for a minute ; 
when melted place mushroom stalks upwards on a frying-pan, then 
pour the butter and parsley over, peppe: and salt them well, and put 
m oven ; when done add little good stock, give them a boil, and 
dish them, pouring gravy over. 

Broiled Mushrooms. — Cleanse as directed in preface, cut oflf a 
portion of stalk, and peel tops ; broil them over a clear fire on but- 
tered gridiorn or broiler turning once, and arrange, tops down on 
very hot dish. Put a small piece butter on each mushroom, season 
with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops lemon 

i'uice. Place dish before fire, and when butter is melted, serve very 
Lot and quickly. Some prefer to place the tops down v/hen broil- 
ing, with a small piece butter and pepner and salt on each, and broil 
witliout turning, serving same side up as soon as butter is thorough- 
ly melted, being careful not to spill from them the delicious iuice 
with which they will be filled. Moderate-sized flaps are better for 
broiling than the buttons ; the latter are better in stews. Another 
method is after skinning to lightly score the under side. Place in 
an earthen dish, baste with melted butter, season with pepper and 
salt and let remain two hours ; then broil on both sides, and serve 
with a sauce of half pint melted butter, with teaspoon each minced 
parsley and young onions and seasoning of pepper and salt ; just 
before serving add juice of a lemon. For Broiled Mushrooms in 
Cases^ peel the mushrooms and cut into pieces. Put them in cases 
of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, parsley, green onions, and 



472 ' - MUSHROOMS. 



shallots chopped up ; salt and pepper. Broil over a gentle fire, and 
serve in the cases. 

Curried Mushrooms. — Peel and remove stems from full-grown 
mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and add a very little butter ; stew 
gently in a little good gravy or stock ; add four tablespoons cream, 
and one teaspoon curry-powder, previously well mixed with two 
teaspoons white flour ; mix carefully, and serve on a hot dish, with 
hot toast and hot plates. The large horse mushroom, when half or 
three parts grown, curried in this fashion, will be found delicious. 

Fried Mushrooms. — Cut off most of the stem, peel the tops ol 
the mushrooms and put in frying pan with enough hot butter to 
cover bottom of pan. The mushrooms Shrink very much, but give 
out a gravy of the richest description, which should not be allowed 
to dry up in pan. When done — in three of four minutes — season 
with pepper and salt, and lemon juice if liked and if to be served 
with beefsteak place the mushrooms on top of steak and pour the 
butter ahd gravy over. They are also very nice served on toast with 
a gravy poured over made by stewing tablespoon flour with butter 
in frying pan, adding pint boiling water and seasoning of pepper 
and salt. Some prefer to fry them in sweet oil instead of butter. 
If fried too long they Avill be tough. For Fried Mushrooms with 
Bacon, fry the bacon as usual, and when nearly done add mush- 
rooms and- fry slowly until done. They will absorb all the fat oi 
the bacon, and served with it, well seasoned with pepper and salt, 
form a most appetizing breakfast dish. 

Pickled Mushroom,s. — Choose nice young button mushrooms 
for pickling, as nearly of a size as possible, rub off the skin with a 
piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stems ; procure small ones 
if possible, but if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the 
black ones, as they are too old. Put them in a stew pan, sprinkle 
salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in proportion of two 
blades. mace and tablespoon ground pepper to each quart mush- 
rooms ; shake them well over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and 
keep them there until it is all dried up again ; then add as much 
vmegar as will cover them ; just let it simmer for one mihute, and 
store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie down with oil- 
cloth or buttered paper and cotton (see Jellies), and keep in a dry 
place J they Avill remain good for a length of time, and are generally 
considered delicious. Some do not like pepper in the pickle, and 
flavor with cloves, allspice and the mace. A little ginger is also 
liked by some, but do not use so much seasoning as to destroy the 
flavor of the mushrooms. Another way is to first boil the vinegar, 
adding the seasonings, then put in the mushrooms and let stand 
ten minutes over the fire but do not boil ; then cool before pouring 
into jars. 



MUSHROOMS. 473 



Mushroom Catsup. — Mushroom catsup is best when made o 
large mushroom flaps, fully ripe, fresh, and perfectly dry — that is 
gathered during dry weather. If this point is not attended to the 
catsup will not keep. Do not wash or skin the mushrooms, but 
carefully remove any decayed, dirty or worm-eaten portions ; cut 
off about half an inch from the end of the stems, then break the 
rest into small pieces, put them into an earthen jar, and allow three- 
fourths of a pound salt for two gallons mushrooms, placing in al- 
ternate layers, scattering the larger portion on top. Let remain all 
night, next day stir gently with a wooden spoon, and repeat this 
three times a day for two days. At the end of that time closely 
cover the jar and set in cool oven an hour or in saucepan boiling 
water and let boil three hours ; then strain the liquid which flows 
from the mushrooms through a coarse cloth, and boil twelve min- 
utes. Do not squeeze the mushrooms. To every quart of the liquid 
put a quarter of an ounce each ginger and black pepper, and apinch 
of mace ; some prefer cayenne pepper and add also half ounce all- 
spice. Boil again till the quantity is reduced one-half. Pour out 
and let stand until cool, then put it into perfectly,dry bottles, being 
careful to leave the sediment, which will have settled to the bottom, 
undisturbed. Cork and seal and keep in cool, dry place. When a 
ver}'- clear bright catsup is wanted, the liquor must be strained 
through a very fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, after it has been very 
gently poured off; if the operation is not successful, it must be re- 
peated until quite clear. The catsup should be examined occasion- 
ally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a few pepper-corns. 
Mushroom catsup is one of the most useful sauces to the experienced 
cook, and no trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double 
Catsup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity. This 
goes farther than ordinary catsup, as so little is required. The sed- 
iment may also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to 
answer for flavoring thick soups or gravies. 

Mushroom Sauce. — Rub a pint button mushrooms with a piece 
of flannel and salt to take off the skin; cut off the stalks and pat 
them in a stewpan with two tablespoons butter, one 'of flour, pint 
of cream, a little grated nutmeg, and a blade mace, pounded, pre- 
viously, mixing together the butter and flour ; boil the whole about 
ten minutes, stirring all the time. For Wiite Mushroom Sauce 
select three-fourths pint button mushrooms and turn them white 
by putting into lemon juice and water, having 
previously cut off the stalks and wiped them 
perfectly free from grit. Chop them and put 
in stewpan with a tablespoon butter. When 
the mushrooms are softened, add half pint 
bechamel sauce, and simmer about five min- 
utes. They should not boil longer than nee- 




474 MUSHROOMS. 



essary, or they will lose their color and flavor. Rub the whole 
through a puree eeive. Heat in a bain marie and serve very hot. 
Very nice with boiled fowls, cutlets, etc. For a nice Broivn Mush- 
room Sauce to serve with roast meat, put a half pint good beef 
gravy in saucepan, thicken it and stir over fire till it boils. Pre- 
pare a half pint mushrooros by cutting off stocks and wiping 
free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut into 
small pieces will answer when the buttons are not obtainable ; put 
them into the gravy and simmer very gently about ten minutes ; 
then add one tablespoon mushroom catsup and serve. Or put 
tablespoon each butter and flour in saucepan and stir over fire till 
light brown, then slowly stir in half the liquor from a can of mush- 
rooms, about one cup, and also cup soup stock, broth or water, 
making consistency of cream ; season palatably with salt and pep- 
per and a very little nutmeg ; put in half the mushrooms in even 
sized pieces, cutting if necessary, let sauce boil once, set off fire and 
add yolks of two eggs and two tablespoons flavored vinegar. For 
another excellent sauce often served with beefsteaks, drain a can of 
mushrooms from their liquor and fry in small frying-pan with a 
little butter ; add pepper and salt, and when a light brown draw 
them to one side of pan, put in heaping teaspoon flour and rub it 
smooth in hot butter, still keeping pan over fire ; when the flour 
has become slightly browned pour in the mushroom liquor grad- 
ually and a few tablespoons water. Shake in the mushrooms, let 
all boil up, squeeze in juice of a quarter of a lemon, and pour over 
beefsteak when ready to serve. For Mushrooms loith Draion But- 
ter^ stir into a half pint melted butter three-fourths pint button 
mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned and free from grit, and 
stalks cut off. Let simmer gently for about ten minutes or until 
quite tender, add cayenne and salt to taste, a tablespoon mushroom 
catsup ; let just boil and serve. 

Mushrooms loith Eggs. — Halve mushrooms ; stew ten minutes 
in a little butter seasoned with pepper and salt and a very little water ; 
drain and put them into pudding dish ; break in enough eggs to cover 
them over the top, and scatter pepper, salt and bits of butter over ; 
strew with bread-crumbs and bake until eggs are set. Serve in dish. 



PASTRY. 475 



F»ASTPtY. 

Pastry constitutes the ornamental and artistic rather than the 
substantial part of the dinner bill of fare, and for this reason, ladies 
who would look upon bread making as drudgery, are proud of their 
success in making up dessert dishes. 

There are a few rules which if observed will contribute to suc- 
cess. The butter or lard used should be sweet, fresh and solid. If 
it is necessary to use butter not freshly made, wash it well, kneading 
it under cold water two or three times, and then wiping with a nap- 
kin. To make a very nice paste for family use, reduce the quantity 
of shortening to a half pound to a quart of flour, especially when 
children or dyspeptics are to be considered. With the exception of 
Mince-pies and Pumpkin-pies, (which are warmed over before serv- 
ing), all pies should be eaten the day they are baked. In warm 
weather, when not ready to bake immediately after making up paste, 
keep it in ice chest till wanted, several days if necessary, and, in any 
event, it is better to let it thus remain for one or two hours. Roll 
always with a well-floured rolling-pin, made of hard wood, smooth 
and highly polished, about an inch and a half in diameter and 
eighteen inches long. Cut off enough paste at a time for one crust, 
and make a fresh cut for the upper crust, using trimmings for the 
lower. For directions for lining pie-pans and covering see direc- 
tions for Puff Pastes. A neat way of cutting and ornamenting 
« , ' . M!uw. ..^ crust for an open pie is here illustrated ; Figure A rep- 
resents a paste-jagger, for cutting and ornamenting the 
edges, B is a plain circle of crust cut with the jagger, to 
fit the pie-dish, C is part of a strip of paste, which is cut 
with the jagger to lay around the edge of pie, and two or three of these 
strips may be placed one upon another, passing finger dipped in water 




476 PASTRY. 

over eack to make them adhere. To prevent juice of pies from 
soaking into under crust, beat an egg well, and with a bit of cloth 
dipped into the egg rub over the crust before filling the pies. It is 
a good plan to make Puflf Paste for top crust, and for under crust 
tise less shortening. Some wash upper crusts with milk just-before 
putting pies in oven to brown them, but be careful not to wash the 
edge, as it spoils the appearance besides preventing the proper ris- 
ing. When using green currants, pie-plant, gooseberries or other 
fruits which require juice to be thickened, fill lower crust, sprinkle 
corn starch evenly over, and put on upper crust, or sprinkle lower 
crust and fruit as in Berry Pies. This prevents juice from running 
over, and when cold forms a nice jelly. Do not sprinkle fruit with 
BUgar until placed in the crust, as sugar sets the juice free. In all 
pies with top crust make air holes or crust will burst. These may 
be arranged in any fanciful shape, and are best made with the point 
of the bowl of an inverted teaspoon pressed through the crust 
while on the board, and gently drawn apart when taken up to put 
over the pie. Meringue^ for pies or puddings, is made in the pro- 
portion -of one tablespoon powdered sugar to white of one egg, with 
flavoring added, beaten well together, spread over top and browned 
delicately in oven. Never fill crusts until just before putting in oven. 
Always use tin pie-pans, since, in earthen pans the under crust is not 
likely to be well baked, and some use a perforated pie-pan. Bake 
fruit pies in a moderate oven, having a better heat at bottom than top, 
or the lower crust will be clammy and raw. When done, crust will 
separate from the pan, so that pie may be easily removed. Remove 
at once from tins, or crust- will become "soggy." Some bake bot- 
tom crust lightly in oven before filling, and others after filling set 
on top of stove a few minutes before putting in oven, to hasten 
the baking of bottom crust. When the latter is baked, without first 
filling, it must be pricked well when put in pan to prevent blistering. 
Short Paste is well adapted to lining the bottom of pie-pans, 
etc., as it is firmer than Puff Paste and holds together better. Hence, 
X7hen making a great deal of pastry it is well to make a little Short 
Paste for all lining or bottom work, and use the Puff Paste for all 
top work. In using the latter cut out all tops first ; use the trim- 
mings for bottoms. It is a good plan to make two or three extra 
crusts on baking day, pricking well, to be used for Cream, Custard, 
or Lemon-pies, as wanted. When preparing pie-pans grease slightly ^ 



PASTRY. 477 

using a little lard, oil or butter, or some think with proper care of 
the pans greasing will not be necessary. To avoid 
wasting flour brush the pastry board all off care- 
fully each time it is used into a small sieve, sift 
out the flour and use again. Always have the 
board well floured, and in the making of Graham 
Set of Measures. ^^^^^ ^^^^ prefer to mix rather soft and put plen- 
ty of graham on board and also on top of paste, then roll out to a 
little thicker than paste of white flour, and place in pan.. The set 
of measures are almost as much of a necessity in the making of 
pastry as in any other department of cookery, and by reference to 
the full table of weights and measures, any recipe can be readily made. 




Cream Paste. — To a pint sifted flour, add an even teaspoon 
baking powder, and sweet cream enough to wet the flour, leaving 
crust a little stiff". Enough for two pies. For a richer paste allow 
rather more than a gill of cream with from four to six tablespoons 
butter and saltspoon salt for each pound flour, omitting the baking 
powder. Make a paste of the cream and flour, roll out and spread 
with butter, rolling again and spreading until all the butter is used. 
In making any paste have flour and wetting as cold as possible. 

Economical Paste. — Take a pound flour, half pound clarified 
drippings (some lise three-fourths pound) half teaspoon salt and 
half pint ice water. Chop and mix as directed in Plain Paste, then 
roll out and fold three times when it will be ready for use. Some 
add a little baking powder to the flour. Half lard and half drip- 
pings may be used. 

Graham Paste. — Mix lightly pint Graham flour, half pint sweet 
cream, half teaspoon salt ; roll, and bake- like other pastry, remem- 
bering that lightness and quickness in handling is the one impor- 
tant step in making all pastes and where cream is used add it slowly 
^^^mm^^^^^g^^^^ga^ to the flour, stirring rapidly with an 
vBBBkHHHHIHBHP artist's spatula or spoon; when 
Artists Spatula. mlxed, form together without knead- 

ing, using barely enough pressure to make the mixture adhere. Roll 
out, place in pan, fill and bake. What is known as No. 1, Graham 
will not need any sifting but the coarser varieties must be sifted. 
For Quaker Paste, take half pint each white flour, sifted, and No. 1 
Graham, mixing as above with one-third pint cream and pinch salt ; 
Bome add baking powder, a teaspoon and a half to above proportions, 
or half teaspoon soda and teaspoon cream tartar, sifting well with 
the white flour. Or sour cream may be used with a teaspoon soda, 



478 PASTRY. 

or sour cream alone will make a most delicious, wholesome paste. 
Or for a Batter Paste take the above proportions of flour, Graham, 
baking powder, etc., with two-thirds pint cream or rich milk ; have 
the fruit in pie-pan without under crust, spread over the batter, bake 
in a quick oven and serve hot. Some add heaping teaspoon corn 
meal to first recipe ; if last two recipes are wished very delicate use 
corn-starch instead of white flour. 

Hygienic Paste. — Take a piece of light bread dough, after it 
has raised the second time, roll out, spread with rather thin coat 
fresh, sweet butter, fold once and roll again as thin as liked for crust. 
If for Custard or Pumpkin-pies the butter may be omitted, but for 
top crust the butter should be used. Some make crust by working 
Well into enough bread dough for one or two pies, a well-beaten egg 
and a little butter or drippings, and others use light, flaky biscuit 
dough. Or make a paste with buttermilk and flour, adding soda in 

Proportion of level teaspoon to each pint buttermilk and a little salt. 
Fse just enough flour to make a dough that will roll out, and bake 
In a rather slow oven. Even a dyspeptic can indulge in the luxury 
of a pie made in this way. 

Oatmeal Paste. — Use fine oatmeal instead of the Graham, as in 
third recipe, mixing as directed and rolling out quite thin. Or after 
greasing the pie-pans sift over a layer of oatmeal or oatmeal and 
corn meal mixed ; or for Corn Meal Paste sprinkle only with the 
latter. The last two pastes are only for pies baked with one crust, 
being used by some for Pumpkin or Squash-pies. 

Plain Paste. — One coffee-cup lard, three of sifted flour, and 
a little salt. In winter soften the lard a little (but not in summer), 
cut it well into flour with a knife, some chop together in chopping 
bowl, then mix with ice-cold water quickly to a moderately stiff 
dough, handling as little as possible. This makes four common- 
gixed covered pies. Take a new slice of paste each time for top 
crust, and after rolling out spread teaspoon butter over half, fold 
and roll again, being careful that the butter does not press out ; use 
the trimmings, etc., for under crust. Some give the paste a second 
fold in the opposite direction after spreading with butter before roll- 
ing, and also claim that a little mashed potato may be mixed in the 
dough before rolling, to make the crust shorter when butter is not 
used. Some prefer to use only one-fourth as much lard or butter 
as flour, level teaspoon salt, and rub it into the flour with the hands 
until so thoroughly mixed as to look like meal. Add just enough 
water to make a dough that can be rolled out. If made with butter, 
this Florida Paste is one of the simplest and most delicious of 
pastry. For Nantucket Paste, take pound sifted flour, quarter 
pound each lard and butter, half pint ice water and little salt. Chop 
the lard fine in the flour, adding salt, mix with water, then roll out, 



PASTRY. 



479 



spread with butter, fold as above, roll out again, and so continue 
until all the butter is used. Some sift a very little flour evenly over 
the paste before spreading with butter, and others brush it over with 
beaten white of an egg. The paste is nicer with all butter instead 
of half lard, and it may all be mixed with the flour, or half reserved 
to spread and roll as above. Some use a quarter pound more flour. 
If for sweet tarts, add two tablespoons powdered sugar before rolling. 

Potato Paste. — Take a quarter pound nice mashed potato, rub 
through colander and mix thoroughly with pint and a half flour, 
three tablespoons butter and a little salt ; then mix all to a paste 
moderately stifi" with cold water or milk, and roll. Bean Paste 
may be made same way. When used for pies, roll these pastes a 
little thicker than paste shortened with lard. Nice for boiled or 
steamed puddings. All, or half Graham flour may be used. 

Puff Paste.— Oviiy the best and freshest of butter, firm and 
solid, and of good flavor, and the finest quality of flour, thoroughly 
sifted, can be used successfully in making puff" paste. The water 
used should be ice cold, and the quantity required depends upon 
the capacity of the flour to absorb it, which is quite variable ; too 
little makes the paste tough, and too much makes it thin, and pre- 
vents the flakiness so desirable. The most perfect cleanliness of the 
hands and everything used is of course necessary. Handle as little 
as possible throughout the whole process, and let every touch be 
quick and light. A stone or marble slab is best for pastry, and one is 
usually fitted smoothly into the shelf of every well-appointed pantry 
and a glass rolling pin will be found desirable. Always make the 
paste in a cool place, in warm weather near an open window if pos* 
Bible. Good pufi" paste is that which rises highest, is lightest, and 
which contracts but little in rising. Pufl" paste, the flakes of which 
can be pushed off whole, or which, in the rising, is considerably 
Bmaller on top than bottom, is not good. To make Good Piif 
Paste, take three-fourths pound butter, of the best quality, free it 
from salt, by working it in water, form in a square piece, and place 
it in flour in a cool place for half an hour to harden ; place one pound 
sifted flour in a bowl, rub two tablespoons butter well into the flour 
and wet into dough with cold water, using about a scant half pint, 
making it as nearly as possible the same consistency as the butter, 
so that the two will roll out evenly together ; place the dough on the 
pastry slab, dust it under and over with flour, and roll it out in a 
piece say twelve inches long and six wide ; flour the butter well, and 
roll that out in a sheet two-thirds the thickness of the dough,_ about 
eight inches long and five wide ; this will cover about two-thirds of 
dough, leaving one-third of dough, and about half an inch around 
the sides and top edge, without butter ; place the sheet of butter on 
dough, mix a half teaspoon cream tartar with tablespoon flour, and 
sprinkle it evenly over the butter ; now fold the dough not covered 



480 PASTRY. 

with butter, over on the butter, then fold the other part with the bat- 
ter on it, over on that, forming three layers of dough and two of but- 
ter. Press the rolling pin over the edges to keep them together and 
roll out to its original size, dust with flour, fold as before, roll out 
again, dust with flour, and fold again ; repeat twice more, giving it 
four rollings and foldings ; when rolled out for the last time, cut it 
through in two even pieces, place one on the other, and the paste is 
ready to roll in any shape desired. In rolling, the first move with 
the pin will be to push it down on the dough three or four times, 
just hard enough to make an indentation without breaking the dough, 
and thus allowing the butter to come through. JMext lay the pin 
levelly on, and give it a roll forward, commencing about two-thirds 
down ; then, without removing the hand from pin, bring it back 
right down to the bottom ; repeat this, then reverse the piece, and 
give it a roll the wide way. Continue this until the paste is rolled 
to a sheet twice the length of its width as above, keeping it nice and 
square. Be very careful and roll level, never pressing heavily but 
exercising equal pressure on each end of the pin, which must be kej)t 
■^ell dusted with flour. In warm weather it is necessary to place it 
in a cool place after every second rolling ; in very warm weather af- 
ter each rolling, and sometimes on ice. The number of rollings and 
foldings must depend somewhat upon the quality of the butter, but 
more upon the evenness of the rolling. To ascertain when it has 
been roiled enough, cut a piece out of the center, and if the layers 
of dough and butter can be easily distinguished it needs to be folded 
and rolled again ; if the layers are almost imperceptible, do not fold 
again, though it is better to give one fold too many than one too few. 
If making a quantity of paste, say three or four pounds, after the 
last rolling cover it with a cloth and cut from it as wanted. Some 
cooks prefer not to give the last fold to the whole piece, but roll out 
and fold as required, giving that designed for tarts or upper crusts 
two or three extra foldings and rollings to make it more flakey. The 
French roll only half a pound at a time, and a small quantity is 
much more easily handled. For a Hich PiiiF Paste, take a pound 
of b'otter to each pound sifted flour, the butter should have first been 
folded in a floured napkin and gently pressed to remove all moisture ; 
if it seems milky or too salt the butter must be washed, and if it is 
properly salted no salt will be needed in the paste. When necessary 
to use salt allow a teaspoon for each pint water. Place the flour on 
board, make a well in center, squeeze in juice of half a lemon, and 
add yolk of one egg, beaten with a little ice water ; stir with one 
hand and drop in ice water with the other until the paste is as hard 
as the butter; roll out in a smooth square an inch thick, smooth 
sides with a rolling pin, roll the butter out and spread over half the 
paste, and lay the other half over like an old-fashioned turn-over ; 
ileave it for fifteen minutes in a cold place, then roll out in a long 
^trip, keeping the edges smooth, and double it in three parts, as fol- 



PASTRY. 



481 



lows ; Fold one-third over on the middle third, roll it down, then 
fold over the other outside third, roll out in a long strip and repeat 
the folding process — rolling across this time so that the butter may 
not run "in streaks" by being always rolled the same way ; let it lie 
for fifteen minutes, some put on ice, and repeat this six times, allow- 
ing fifteen minutes between each rolling to cool, (otherwise the but- 
ter will "oil"), and the paste is ready for use. If a very flaky pastry 
is desired brush the paste over each time it ij rolled before folding, 
with beaten white of egg. What is known as French Puif Paste 
is made with same proportion of ingredients as above, adding another 
yolk of egg when mixing the first dough ; then roll it out square 
about half an inch thick ; have the butter as cool as possible, make 
it into a ball, and place this ball on the paste j fold the paste over 
the butter all round, and secure it well. Flatten by rolling it lightly 
with the rolling pin until it is quite thin, but not thin enough to al- 
low the butter to break through, then fold, roll and finish as above. 
If the directions given in above recipe are carefully followed, 
the most satisfactory results will be obtained, but there are other 
methods, which are incorporated under the following general Sug- 
gestions for Puif Paste. The secret of success in making puff 
paste is to secure the greatest possible number of even layers of 
butter and dough, alternately, as the result of folding and rolling. 
This is best accomplished, as will readily be perceived, by increas- 
ing the quantity of butter ; the more one uses, the greater the num- 
ber of layers before the butter is exhausted by absorption into the 
dough. On the other hand, too much butter produces equally bad re- 
sults ; a quantity of butter equal to the flour is the most, and three- 
fourths pound of butter to a pound flour the least, that can be used in 
puff paste with good results. In making puff paste it is a mistake to 
suppose that lessening the quantity of butter is economical. For in- 
stance,Tart Shells cut one-fourth of an inch thick from paste made with 
half pound butter to a pound flour, will not be any thicker or higher 
when baked than those cut from paste half as thick made with three- 
fourths pound butter to a pound flour. Thus, by using one-fourth 
more butter double the bulk results, besides the satisfaction of hav- 
ing good light pastry. In washing or egging pastry be careful not 
to allow the egg^ or milk, or whatever is used, to run down oyer the 
edges, as when it is placed in the heat of the oven, it will bind the 
edges and prevent them from opening fully. In rolling use the roll- 
ing-pia as lightly as possible, and take care that the pressure is even. 
The layers will be even or uneven just in proportion as the pressure 
is even or uneven. Be careful not to break the dough, or the butter 
will be forced through, and thus destroy the evenness of the layers. 
If the dough breaks, some flour it lightly, fold in three layers, cover 
with a damp cloth and let stand an hour or two. But if wanted to 
use immediately, cover the broken place with a piece of "plain 
dough," dust it well with flour, and continue rolling ; it is well to 



482 PASTRY. 

keep a piece of plain dough in reserve for tins purpose. Before 
adding the butter some divide it into three equal parts, spreading 
one-third at a time over half the paste, turning the other harlf over 
it, then folding over from the other way ; roll and spread and fold 
again, and yet again, when all of the butter will have been used. 
Some "spread" the butter by rolling as in above recipes, others by 
putting it evenly over in small bits, and still others by cutting in 
slices and laying them closely and evenly over, always leaving a lit- 
tle outside margin. Each time before the paste is folded it should 
be turned half round, so as to roll in a different direction. To turn 
the paste, hold one end to the rolling pin, then, rolling the pin, the 
dough will fold loosely around it, sprinkle the board with flour, then 
unroll the dough in the side direction. This is better than to turn 
it with the hands. After the butter is all worked in, roll the paste 
out in a long smooth strip, fold or lap over into three parts or layers, 
roll out, and repeat. Beiore using, some place the paste on ice about 
fifteen minutes between two plates, reversing them once that it may 
be thoroughly chilled through, then use as expeditiously as possible. 
Others also set it on ice or in a cool place for a few minutes after 
each rolling. To toughen the dough, before adding the butter form 
it into a ball, flatten it on the floured slab and beat with the rolling 
pin five minutes, turning and doubling constantly. There will then 
be less danger of its breaking when the butter is rolled in. Some 
add the well-beaten white of an egg to the water used in mixing the 
dough, which helps to toughen it. Paste made the day before it is 
used is thought by some to be much better and easier to manage, 
and in winter it may be kept four or five days in a cold place, using 
from it as required, but it must not freeze. When ready to use, finish 
the paste by folding in three layers and rolling as above ; some fold 
and roll thus seven times but never press heavily upon it with the 
rolling pin. In using the paste remember that it must be touched 
by the lightest fingers, every cut must be made with a sharp knife, 
and done with one quick stroke so that the paste is not dragged at 
all. For tarts roll less than a quarter inch thick and for pies a trifle 
thicker. Do not press the paste into the pan as this will destroy its 
lightness and ruin it. A little practice will enable one to cut off" a 
piece of paste from the mass which when rolled will be very nearly 
the right size. Put this over pan, lifting by partly rolling on the 
rolling pin, and instead of pressing round the bottom to make it fit 
smoothly, gently lift the edges at the top giving a slight pushing 
motion towards the center with the palms of the hands on opposite 
sides ; it will easily adjust itself to the dish. Some then trim off 
superfluous portions, leaving a good margin over the edge, though 
others do not trim until the top crust is added, cutting the paste 
quickly with a sharp knife dipped in hot water or flour, while hold- 
ing the pan on the left hand. To have the middle of the crust 
thinner than the edge, which is preferred by some, double over 




PASTRY. 483 

the paste and roll the part that will be the middle with the end of 
rolling pin, having flour enough about the paste to prevent sticking, 
then open and put in pan as directed. Always before putting on upper 
crust wet rim of lower with finger dipped in water,or with a thick paste 
of flour and water, or egg and flour and press the two crusts firmly 
together and indent evenly all round with the thumb, or use the 
pastry wheel shown in cut. This simple little instrument trims ofl" 

the surplus paste that projects over 
the pan, and at the same time neatly 
ornaments the border. Do not put in 
oven until it is hot enough to raise the 
Pastry Wheel. pastc J puff paste requlrcs a quick 

oven, and no matter how carefully prepared, if not properly baked 
it will be utterly ruined, and for this reason it is best to test the oven 
by first baking a little piece of the paste. 

Medium Puff Paste. — One pound flour, half pound butter, 
quarter pound lard, not quite half pint ice water ; mix the flour 
and water to a smooth paste, then roll out three times, spreading the 
first time with butter, the second with lard, and the third with but- 
ter again, when it will be ready for use. 

Suieet Paste. — Mix with a knife half pound butter, cut in bits, 
with pound flour, four tablespoons sugar and pinch of salt ; add 
enough sweet milk, about a gill, to form a smooth paste, handling 
lightly. Will rise very light and should be baked a delicate brown. 
Adding two tablespoons more butter makes it nearly as nice as puff" 
paste. Some add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring them 
in the milk, using about a gill of the latter, though if eggs are large 
not quite so much will be needed, but more if eggs are small. For 
another With Boiled Milk, to every pound flour allow four table- 
spoons sugar, three of butter and a half pint boiling milk. Crumble 
butter into flour as finely as possible, add sugar and work to a 
smooth paste with the boiling milk. Roll out thin and use. 

Pastry Frosting. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth and 
when pastry is nearly done brush over with this, using the pastry 
brush for the purpose and sprinkle with granulated sugar and a few 
drops water returning to oven a few minutes to set the frosting, tak- 
ing care that it does not brown or scorch. 

Pastry Glaze. — The simplest glaze is the thoroughly beaten 
yolk of an egg, but most cooks prefer to add to the yolk twice its 
bulk in water and teaspoon sugar, then beat up well, and just before 
pastry is done, brush it over evenly with this and return to oven to 
set the glaze, which gives it a rich yellow-brown color. 

Dried-Apple-pie. — Wash two quarts dried apples and place in a 
four-quart jar or bean pot; wash half pint cranberries and put in 



484 PASTRY. 

with the apples, fill up with cold water and bake half an hour ; 
fill up again with cold water and bake till apples are tender ; rub 
all through colander, sweeten to taste Avith brown sugar, add cup 
seeded raisins, teaspoon ground cinnamon and bake between two 
crusts. When making dried-apple-pies if any bits of cold meat are 
at hand, chop them as for mince-meat adding about twice as much 
of the prepared apples as meat, a little vinegar or boiled cider, sea- 
soning and spices to taste and a few raisins. These Cottage Pia 
are very quickly made and much resemble Mince-pies. For Turn- 
overs^ make a good biscuit dough, roll thin about size of pie-pan, 
put on it a tablespoon nice dried apple sauce, or any other kind, 
turn the crust over, cut with the edge of saucer to shape it nicely, 
and fry in hot fat or drippings, like doughnuts. Or makeof Quaker 
Paste, about the size of saucer, fill as liked, fold and bake in oven. 

Grated- Apple-pie. — Grate two tart apples and add cup sugar, 
two eggs, teaspoon cinnamon ; beat well and stir in cup sweet milk ; 
bake quickly in one crust. The whites of egg may be reserved for 
meringue. Or to enough grated apple for a pie add juice of half a 
lemon, yolks of two eggs, well beaten, half cup sugar, good-sized 
piece of butter, melted, and teaspoon rose-water. Bake and cover 
with a meringue. The apples may be chopped if preferred. Sweet- 
Apple-pie is made same, using half as much sugar ; or the eggs, 
lemon juice and rose-water may be omitted and nutmeg grated over 
the top. Some always add a little milk. 

Halved- Apple-pie. — Pare and cut in halves large tart apples, 
bellflowers are best, remove cores and place in rich crust, cut side up. 
Allow cup sugar and tablespoon butter to each pie, strewing sugar 
over, and also the butter cut in bits. Bake in one crust until apples 
are done and serve with cream. Rich and delicious. 

Lemon Apple-pie. — One cup chopped apples, grated rind and 
chopped pulp of one lemon, cup sugar and a well-beaten egg. Bake 
in two crusts, or one and cover with a meringue. 

Apple-Ctistard-pie. — Beat yolks of six eggs with cup sugar; add 
three cups cold stewed and pulped apples with a quart milk, or pint 
each cream and milk, season with grated orange peel, o? as liked, 
beat in whipped whites of eggs last and bake in one crust. Makes 
two or three pies. Or in either recipe reserve some of the whites of 
eggs for meringue. Baked in pudding dish, this makes a delicious 
Apple-Custard Pudding^ and the dish may be lined with pastry, bread- 
crumbs, or slices of bread dipped in sweet milk or a custard ; or |)Ut 
the crumbs and apple mixture in dish in alternate layers. For an 
Apple-butter pie, beat well together four eggs, cup each apple-butter 
and sugar, and level tablespoon allspice ; add quart sweet milk and 
pinch of salt and bake in one crust ; makes three pies. 

Banana-pie. — Slice three or four bananas and enough apples 
to fill the pie, sprinkle sugar over and cover, spreading a little but- 
ter over top crust and sifting sugar over. Bake about twenty min- 



PASTRY. 485 

utes. Or peel three or four bananas, slice each in two or three 
pieces lengthwise and place in the pie two layers deep, cover mod- 
erately with sugar, drop a blade of mace broken in pieces and bits 
of fresh butter over the slices, pour in four tablespoons lemon juice, 
and bake in one crust in moderate oven twenty minutes. 

Berry-pie. — Allow two heaping tablespoons sugar and tea- 
spoon corn-starch, or tablespoon flour for each pie, mix thoroughly 
together, and after lining pie-pan with a good paste, sprinkle one 
tablespoon of the mixture evenly over bottom, put berries in smooth- 
ly, sprinkle over remainder of sugar mixture, and if wanted very 
rich, bits of butter also, cover with upper crust and bake in moderate 
oven. A little more sugar or flour is needed for some kinds of ber- 
ries than others, according to their tartness or juciness. Cranber- 
ries will re quire d ouble the above quantities, and are nice baked 
^^'<^^^^^^^^^:z^:::>>^ with a Diamond Top made as follows : 
f/^^^^^^^^^^'^^<\ ^'0^1 ^ piece of nice paste very thin, cut 
V ^^^^^^^"^B^^^ / ^"^^ strips a sixth of an inch wide and 
Nii^^^^^^^^^y^^^^/ place in cross-bars three-quarters of an 
^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ inch apart over each pie, making dia- 
~u.;i::,oud "'^'^"'^ mond-shaped spaces ; pinch down the 

ends, trim ofl" dough, cutting close to rim of pan, and place around 
the edge, the strip of paste cut with the j agger, as illustrated in the 
preface ; a handsomer cover is made by also cutting the strips for 
the top with the jagger. The diamond top is very nice for any berry or 
fruit pie. Berry-pies are best served cold, unless directed otherwise in 
recipes. For Canned-Berry-pies, if the berries are put up with sugar, 
they will not need any more sweetening, and little if any flour or corn- 
starch, though this will depend on quantity of juice used. If 
canned without sugar, follow first rule. Dried- Berry-pies can be 
made to rival fresh fruit in flavor by putting the berries in without 
stewing. Sprinkle bottom crust with sugar mixture as above, then 
put in smoothly as many berries as will be required to make a full 
pie when done, remembering that they swell fully a third in cooking, 
sprinkle over rest of mixture and add water in same proportion as 
if stewing the fruit, cover with crust and bake. Or first etc w the 
fruit and proceed as above. Two dried fruits combined, as raspber- 
ries and blackberries ; or raspberries and apples ; or with larger 
fruits, peaches and apples make a palatable pie. 

A wise authority on cookery has said "Never spice either fresh 
or dried fruits, lest you destroy their flavor; if it is desirable to 
heighten the flavor of any fruit in pies, sauces etc., add juice from 
another fruit. For instance, flavor apples with pine-apple or quince ; 
strawberries with orange or pine-apple ; or raspberries with currants." 

Carrot-jne. — Thoroughly clean and scrape some carrots, boil 
till tender and mash through a sieve. To a pint strained pulp and 
six well-beaten eggs add three pints boiling milk, two tablespoons 
melted butter, juice of half and grated rind of whole lemon, and 



486 



PASTRY. 




sugar to taste. Bake in deep pie-pan in one crust. Or make like 
Pumpkin-pie, which it resembles. 

Creamless Pie. — Use yolks of two eggs, two-thirds cup sugar, 
half cup flour and one pint milk ; mix eggs, flour and sugar 
thoroughly and stir into milk when it boils ; flavor with lemon or 
vanilla. Bake a crust, pour mixture in, and place in oven fifteen 
minutes ; make a meringue of the whites of eggs. A cup raisins 
may be added to either of above, if flavor is liked. 

Whipped- Cream-pie. — Cover a buttered pie-plate with Puff or 
Short Paste rolled very thin, and cut off about an inch from the 
edge all around the plate. Spread over A^ery evenly a thin layer of 
cooked paste made as for Boston Cream Puff's, page 80. Put a tube, 
measuring about half an inch in diameter, in meringue bag, turn 
remainder of cooked paste into the bag and 
press it through the tube on to edge of plate, 
where the puff' paste has been cut off", making 
the border of equal thickness all round. 
Prick holes in the paste in center of plate, and 
bake half an hour in moderate oven. Make the 
paste left in bag into balls about half the size 
Meringue Bag. of waluuts. Drop thcm lu lightly buttcrcd pan 

and bake fifteen or twenty minutes. While baking, put half cup 
each water and sugar in small saucepan, and boil twenty-five min- 
utes. When the balls and plate of paste are done, take the balls on 
point of skewer or large needle, dip each in the syrup and place 
them on border of paste about two inches apart. Do not stir syrup 
or it will grain. A part of the syrup may be poured into a small 
cup, which place in hot water and use, while that remaining in sauce- 
pan is kept hot until needed, but it must not boil. When all the 
balls have been used, dip a dozen and a half French candied cher- 
ries in the syrup and stick them between the balls, reserving about 
half a dozen cherries with which to garnish center of cake. For 
the filling, whip half pint cream to a froth ; soak half ounce gela- 
tine two hours in scant third cup milk, then pour on this,_third cup 
boiling milk. Place pan of whipped cream in another of ice water, 
and sprinkle over it quarter cup sugar and half teaspoon vanilla. 
Strain gelatine on this, and stir gently from the bottom until it be- 
gins to thicken. When it will just pour, fill plate with it, and set 
in ice chest for half an hour. Garnish top with the remaining 
cherries, and serve. A delicious pie and a very ornamental dish. 

Green- Currant-pie. — Fill the crust half full of currants, and 
add half cup sugar, tablespoon butter, and a little ground cin- 
namon if liked ; fill up the plate with currants, add nearly half cup 
more sugar, and cover with a crust ; bake half an hour in moderate 
oven. If too sweet, use less sugar. Ripe- Currant-pie made in 
same way, using less sugar ; and to take equal quantities currants and 



PASTRY. 487 

either black or red raspberries, make a delicious pie. Some sim- 
ply stem, stew and mash the currants through a sieve, sweeten to 
taste while hot, and when cool bake in one crust. Make Cranberry- 
pie same, preparing berries the same as for cranberry sauce. For 
Dried- Currant-pie, take the large English currants, cleanse carefully, 
and stew in plenty of water. Sweeten, and thicken with flour till of 
consistency of rich cream. Bake in two crusts. Very good. 

Custard-pie. — Heat a quart good rich milk in a tin pan set in 
skillet of hot water ; beat four or five eggs with four large table- 
spoons sugar, and a little salt, and pour in the milk ; flavor to taste 
and have oven hot, when put in to bake. Cook slowly so as not to 
boil, as that spoils it ; test with a knife and when done it will not 
stick to blade. Make one very deep pie, or two of ordinary depth. 
Without the crust, this makes a delicious Bahed Custard. Some 
when they both cook the custard, and bake the crust first, fill and 
cover at once with a meringue and only bake long enough to deli- 
cately brown the top. Pies may be made without first cooking the 
custard, and the crust may be pricked and baked, but not too hard, 
before filling. This prevents it from becoming soggy. Reserve white 
of one egg for frosting, if liked. Less eggs may be used by substi- 
tuting tablespoon corn-starch for each egg omitted, but when this is 
used the custard must always be first cooked. For a Raspbeny- 
Cvstard-pie stir in a handful fresh raspberries, or enough for one 
layer, just before baking ; they will float on top and form a pleasing 
change. Any berries may be used. For a Jelly- Custard-pie, heat 
yolks of four eggs with cup sugar and two tablespoons butter ; add 
cup of any jelly preferred and lastly the beaten whites of eggs and 
•bake in one crust ; making a meringue of whites of eggs and spreading 
over top, if liked. For a Chocolate- Custard -2ne, take one- 
one-fourth cake Baker's chocolate, grated ; pint boiling water, six 
eggs, quart milk, half cup white sugar, two teaspoons vanilla; dis- 
solve chocolate in very little milk, stir into the boiling water, and 
boil three minutes ; when nearly cold, beat in yolks of all the eggs 
and whites of three; stir this mixture into milk, season, and pour 
. into good paste ; when about half done, spread over the remaining 
whites whipped to a froth with three tablespoons sugar. Some use 
three pints milk, omitting the pint water. Makes three ordinary 
pies or two deep ones. It is better for Custard, Cream and Pump- 
kin-pies to use deep pie-pans, as directed in Berry-pies and use in 
same way. 

Deep Fruit Die. — Line the edge of a deep, oval, earthen pie-dish 
with paste and about half its depth inside ; invert a small cup in 
centre, an egg cup is best, one that will stand a little above the edge 
of dish, fill with sliced apples, adding if liked, a quince cut in slices 
and stewed till tender in a little water and sugar. Or quarter the 
apples, put in preserving kettle with four tablespoons powdered 
sugar to a pie, and add water enough to make a thin syrup ; add 



488 PASTRY. 

a few blades of mace, and boil the apple in the syrup a few pieces 
at a time, to avoid breaking ; take carefully from the kettle and 
lay them in dishes. When enough apples for the number of pies 
to be made are ready, add to syrup cinnamon and rose-water, or 
any spice wished. Arrange the apples in pie-plate with the rim 
lined with paste as above, pour an equal part of the syrup into each 
pie and cover with top crust; bake a light brown in moderate oven. 
In making Shallow Fruit-pics the cup is omitted, and some pile fruit 
high in center of under crust, leaving space round the sides almost 
bare of fruit, and when the upper crust is put on, presa it gently 
down all around into the groove thus formed, make two or three 
holes in it for the juice to escape, which when baking will boil out 
of the holes and run all round the groove with a pretty effect. The 
groove must be made deep enough to hold all juice that boils out 
or it will run over the pie in streaks. The fruit must also be piled 
high enough in the center to prevent this. Whipped cream is deli- 
cious with fruit-pies. For Fruit Turn-overs, roll Puff Paste to thick- 
ness of about one-fourth of an inch, and cut it out in pieces of a 
circular form ; pile the fruit on half the paste, sprinkle over some 
sugar, wet the edges and turn the paste over. Press edges together, 
ornament them, and brush the turn-overs over with the white of an 
egg; sprinkle over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, 
for about twenty minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it 
maybe boiled down with a little sugar first, and then enclosed in 
the crust; or jam of any kind may he substituted for fresh fruit. 
Suitable for picnics. Any fruit may be used instead of apples. 

Gooseherry-pie. — Take either green, or not too ripe gooseberries. 
Put in saucepan with enough water to prevent burning, and stew 
slowly until they break, stirring often. Sweeten well and set away 
to cool. When cold, pour in pie-pan lined with paste, cover with a 
crust or Diamond Top, and bake in oven. Eat cold but fresh, with 
powdered sugar sifted over top. Or use the ripe berries without first 
cooking, as in Berry-pie. Some also add a pinch of salt. 

Hickonj-nnt-pie. — Mash a pound hickory-nut kernels fine, add 
three-fourths cup sweet milk with tablespoon flour, mixed smooth 
in little of the milk, and three tablespoons sugar. Stir well together 
and bake in one crust, covering with meringue. 

Lemon-pie. — Make a syrup of a cup each boiling water and sugar, 
add grated rind and juice of one lemon, well-beaten yolks of two 
eggs, tablespoon corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, and 
teaspoon butter. Cook till thick ; then pour into a crust already 
baked, spread with a meringue and brown in oven. This makes one 
pie, but two pies can be made of one lemon by doubling the quan- 
tity of all the other ingredients. Or for an Ernnomical Lemon-pie. 
take one pint water, add the juice, grated rind and chopped pulp of 
one lemon ; when boiling, stir in half pint sugar and third of a pint 
gour, well mixed. (When corn-starch or flour is added to any liquid 



PASTRY. 489 

if mixed with the dry sugar it will not be kimpy). When partially 
thickened, place in pie-pan lined with Quaker Paste, cover with up- 
per crust and bake. For CIwpped-Lemoii-^ne, grate rind and chop pulp 
of three lemons, from which the white outside pith and seeds have 
been carefully taken ; thia is very necessary where the whole lemon 
i3 used as they impart a bitter flavor. Beat together yolks of four 
eggs, three cups sugar, half cup cold water, pinch salt and table- 
spoon corn- starch, mixed smooth in part of the water ; add the pre- 
l)ared lemon and well-frothed whites of eggs and bake with two 
crusts. For Eygless Lemo^i-^ne, mix tablespoon corn-starch smooth 
with little water, and stir in cup boiling water ; add juice and grated 
rind of a lemon, cup sugar, tablespoon butter and bake with one or 
two crusts as preferred. A raw potato size of lemon, grated, may be 
stirred in the boiling water instead of corn-starch. Or With Fruit, 
take cup each sugar, water and seeded raisins, one lemon, and grated 
rind if flavor is liked ; chop lemon and raisins, fine, and some cook 
the raisins with tbe water three-quarters of an hour, 6tirringin,just 
before taking off fire, a tablespoon corn-starch made smooth with a 
little water. Add the sugar and chopped lemon and bake in two 
crusts. Or the juice of two lemons may be used, and the whole 
baked in three crusts, putting on bottom crust a layer of the chopped 
fruit with sugar and little corn-starch sprinkled over, then anotiier 
crust, rolled very thin, and layer of fruit, etc., then the top crust. 
For Sliced-Lemon-pie, pare carefully one large or two small lemons, 
slice thin, remove seeds, cover with two cups sugar and let stand 
an hour. Then put smoothly in two pie-pans lined with paste, 
add three tablespoons cold water and sprinkle over each a teaspoon 
corn-starch. Bake with upper crust. A little grated lemon peel may 
be added. Or put the slices of lemon in the crusts, with a cup sugar, 
teaspoon butter in bits and tablespoon flour, sprinkled in last, to 
each pie. Cover with upper crust and bake. If lemons are not very 
juicy, add two or three tablespoons water to each pie. 

Appleless Mincc-weat. — Chop fine eight pounds green tomatoes, 
add six pounds sugar, one ounce each cloves, cinnamon and allspice, 
and simmer slowly till tomatoes are clear, then put away in covered 
jar. For pies in winter, take in portion of two-thirds tomatoes 
and one-third meat, and season with butter, boiled cider, sugar if 
needed, etc., as regular mince pies would be seasoned. Chopped 
Pie-plant, used as apples in any of the Mince-meat recipes makes a 
delicious pie, and the canned pie-plant may also be used. 

Mince-ineat imth. Lemon. — Boil four ripe thin-skinned lemons in 
quart water till water has half boiled away ; squeeze the juice over 
two pounds white sugar, remove seeds and chop rinds and pulp fine ; 



490 PASTRY. 

chop a pound seedless raisins and two pounds suet, then mix all to- 
gether and add two pounds currants, an ounce mixed ground spices 
and a gill each water and vinegar. Two ounces blanched and chopped 
sweet almonds and half pound citron may be added if liked. Two 
lemons may be omitted, also the raisins, and six large apples, chopped 
added instead. Put in a jar, stir occasionally, and it will be ready 
for use in a week or ten days. A chopped tongue may be added if 
liked, although no meat is necessary. 

3Ieasured Mince-meat. — One and a half pints chopped meat, 
three pints chopped apples, half pint chopped suet or butter, or 
equal parts of each, half pint each vinegar and cider, pint raisins, 
two pints sugar, or one of sugar and one of molasses, one tablespoon 
each cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, half tablespoon each salt and 
pepper, and grated rind and juice of one lemon. Scald the suet after 
chopping, and cook Avith other ingredients until apples are tender 
before adding spices. If too thick, add equal parts vinegar and water. 

Mince-meat. — Take six pounds scraggy beef — a neck piece will 
do — and boil in water enough to cover ; take off scum that rises 
when it reaches boiling point, add hot water from time to time until 
tender, then remove lid from pot. salt, let boil till almost dry, turn- 
ing the meat over occasionally in the liquor, take from the fire, and 
let stand overnight in the liquor to get thoroughly cold ; pick bones, 
gristle, or stringy bits from the meat, chop very fine, mincing at the 
same time three pounds nice beef suet ; seed and cut four pounds 
raisins, wash and dry three pounds currants, slice thin pound of 
citron, chop fine four quarts good-cooking tart apples ; put all in 
large pan together, add two ounces cinnamon, one of cloves, one of 
ginger, four nutmegs, juice and grated rinds of three lemons, table- 
spoon salt, teaspoon pepper, and two pounds sugar. Put in a porce- 
lain kettle quart boiled cider, or better st'ill, quart currant or grape 
juice (canned when grapes are turning from green to purple), quart 
nice molasses or syrup, and, if any syrup at hand left from sweet 
pickles, add some of that, also a good lump of butter ; let it come 
to boiling point, and pour over ingredients in pan after having first 
mixed them well, then mix again thoroughly. Taste, and if not 
properly flavored, add more boiled cider, fruit juice, or seasoning, as 
needed. It should have a smooth agreeable taste with no one flavor 
predominating. Pack in jars and put in a cool place, and, when 
cold, pour molasses over the top an eighth of an inch in thickness, 
and cover tightly. This will keep two months. For baking, take 
some out of jar, ifnot moist enough add a little hot water, and strew a 
few whole raisins over each pie. Instead of boiled beef, a beef s tongue 
or heart or roast meat may be used, the tongue making the choicest 
of all. For a very nice and rich Holiday Mince-meat^ use half and 
half boiled beef and tongue with same proportions of other ingred- 



>A8T»Y. 491 

ients and add juice and rind of three oranges, quarter pound each 
candied orange and lemon peel, sliced thin ; three-quarters pound 
Bweet almonds and an ounce bitter almonds (weighed after shelling), 
blanched and chopped, and half teaspoon almond extract. Also 
omit two nutmegs and add teaspoon mace, and if the syrup is ob- 
jected to use instead two pounds more sugar. In baking, a table- 
spoon sweet cream for each pie, heated and stirred into the mince- 
meat just before filling in crusts, is a great improvement. 

The above are good formulas, but, of course, may be varied to 
suit different tastes or the material at hand, and for convenience a 
few Suggestions for Mince-meat are given : If too rich add more 
chopped apples. Reserve some of the liquor in which the meat was 
boiled to moisten the mince-meat ; if the fat which forms on top of 
the liquor is also added less suet will be required. In lieu of cider, 
vinegar and water in equal proportions may be used ; and some think 
a little vinegar should be added when either cider or boiled cider, 
are used, more being required with the latter ; but if the apples are 
carefully washed and pared, the strained juice obtained from the 
parings, stewed in a little water, or cooked in a crock as for jelly, 
18 better than any other wetting, to which a little vinegar may be 
added ; or use any kind of tart fruit juice ; or some use cold coffee 
and tea with a little vinegar. Good preserves, marmalades, spiced 
pickles, currant or grape jelly, canned fruit, dried cherries, prunelles, 
etc., ma^ take the place of raisins, currants and citrons. Wine or 
brandy is considered by many a great improvement, but if "it causeth 
thy brother to offend" do not use it. Lemon and vanilla extracts 
are often used. The Mince-meat is better to stand overnight, or 
several days, before baking into pies, as the materials will be more 
thoroughly incorporated. Although many do not put in the apples 
when mince-meat is made, thinking it keeps better and longer with- 
out, but chop and add them to the quantity to be used about an hour 
before baking, in equal proportions, though some prefer after chop- 
ping to sweeten and stew the apples till partially done, then add to 
the prepared mixture, and make into pies. Both apples and meat 
may be put through the sausage grinder instead of chopping. Some 
do not cook the beef before chopping and putting ingredients to- 
gether, when it will be necessary, after mixing, to cook all thoroughly 
until meat is tender, adding a little water, if needed ; others who 
cook the meat first, always cook the mince-meat after mixing until 
apples are tender. Dried-apples may be used in mince-meat, simply 
soaking overnight before chopping, and when evaporated apples are 
used the pies are nearly if not quite as excellent as those made with 
fresh apples, but the mince-meat must be thoroughly cooked. A 
good proportion for a few pies is one-third chopped meat and two- 
thirds apples, with a little suet, raisins spices, butter and salt, and 
enough boiled cider to make of desired consistency. Care should 
]»« taken not to have the minoe-meat too thick, or the pies will bf 



492 PASTRY. 

dry and hard. When ready to use, it is a good plan to test by first 
baking a small pie or turn-over. Many prefer to freeze mince-pies 
after baking, heating them as wanted. 

Fragment Mince-UvK- it. — Take one pint chopped corned beef, or 
remains of any cold meat will do, carefully removing all bits of skin, 
gristle and bone, and if very lean adding a little fat pork, twelve or- 
dinary sized potatoes, scalded until softened, but not thoroughly 
cooked, and chopped, pint bread-crumbs, and any bits of cake, dough- 
nuts, etc., chopped fine, juice of four lemons with the chopped pulp 
and a little grated rind, pint each sugar and molasses, or sweetening 
to taste, pound raisins, or dried currants and any "left-over" pre- 
serves at hand, or dried apple sauce, with spices to taste ; put all 
together over fire with cold coffee, tea and a little vinegar — about 
three pints wetting in all — bring to scalding heat and add three or 
four well-beaten eggs, or these may be omitted. Do not make too 
thick as the mixture hardens in baking; thinwith water if necessary. 
Before putting into pies, taste and add more vinegar or seasoning if 
needed. These fragment pies have been so successfully made as to 
be thought the real mince article, but judgment must be used in 
amount of sugar, wetting and seasoning needed. 

Molasses-pie. — Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, 
half cup New Orleans or sorghum molasses, cup white sugar, butter 
size of a walnut, cup sour cream, teaspoon soda stirred into molas- 
ses, whites mixed in last ; or reserve two whites for meringue. Bake 
slowly in moderate oven. Nutmeg gives a nice flavor. Another half 
cup molasses may be added with teaspoon corn-starch, making suf- 
ficient for two pies. They may also be baked with two crusts. 

Orange-pie. — Beat cup powdered sugar and tablespoon but- 
ter to cream ; mix tablespoon corn-starch with a little cold water, 
and add cup boiling water ; cook long enough to thicken, stirring 
constantly ; then pour the mixture over butter and sugar, add grated 
rind of half an orange, beaten egg and juice of an orange. Peel an- 
other orange, and slice in little thin bits, being careful to remove all 
the seeds and the tough white skin. Line a pie-pan with nice paste 
and bake until just done ; then fill with the custard and orange slices 
and bake long enough to cook the egg. A meringue may be added 
if liked. The following California Pie is a very elaborate recipe : 
Stir a cup sifted sugar with juice of six large oranges over fire until 
hot, skim and set aside to cpol. When nearly cold add yolks of six 
eggs, beaten very light and a half pint cream ; Stir over a slow fire 
until thick. Turn into baked crusts and spread a meringue on top, 
and brown in oven. Or serve as Orange Custard in glasses with a 
heaped teaspoon of whites of eggs beaten with cup powdered sugar 
on each, or the -same of whipped cream. For a Sliced Orange Pie^ pare 
oranges very thin, soak whole in water three days, changing water 
frequently. Boil until soft. When cold, cut a thick slice from the top 
and bottom, and the rest in thin slices; bake in rich under crust, fill- 
ing with layers of sugar and the thin slices of oranges alternately. 



PASTRY. 493 

Peacli-ple. — Line a deep dish with Cream Paste ; pare and 
halve nice ripe peaches, or they may be left whole, and fill the dish. 
Beat a pint cream and three tablespoons sugar together and pour 
over the peaches ; dredge on a little flour, put on top crust ; bake until 
peaches are well cooked. Berry or Currant-pies may be made same. 

Pie-plant-pie. — Cook one and a half cups chopped pie-plant 
with half cup water aud two-thirds cup sugar, adding tablespoon 
corn-starch or flour made smooth in little water just before taking 
from fire; let cool and add teaspoon lemon extract, pinch of salt, 
yolks of two eggs and white of one ; bake in one crust, using white 
of egg for meringue. Grated rind and juice of a lemon may be 
added instead of the extract, and only the two yolks used with the 
fruit or use one egg and cover with a Diamond Top. 

Prune-pie. — Take two cups French prunes, washed thoroughly 
and soaked in water overnight; cup sugar, teaspoon extract lemon, 
two tablespoons boiled cider, one-third cup water ; sprinkle teaspoon 
flour over top of each pie; bake twenty-five minutes in rather hot 
oven. The boiled cider may be omitted, and half a lemon, peeled 
and sliced thin, used instead, or a tablespoon vinegar. Some cook 
the mixture, adding the flour, before putting in pie. For a Prune- 
Custard-pie, soak prunes overnight and cook as for Stewed Prunes ; 
meantime make a custard of two tablespoons corn-starch, quart 
milk, two eggs and four tablespoons sugar, with little butter and salt 
and stir in the prunes. Bake in one crust, whites of eggs may be 
reserved from custard for a meringue if desired. A few raisins may 
be stewed with the prunes and grated lemon rind added for flavor- 
ing. Some remove the pits before putting prunes in custard. 

Pumphin-pie. — Stew pumpkin all day, on back of stove, with a lit- 
tle water, stirring every little while to prevent burning. A quantity 
may be cooked at one time, and it is considered sweeter to be 
thus prepared ; then pulp through colander and take amount 
wanted, putting remainder in a cool place. To three table- 
spoons pulp add two-thirds pint milk, teaspoon flour, one egg, 
,iiji^a5EI!S5iiii\ beaten as above, tablespoon each butter and su- 
l^^^gsSP gar and one-third teaspoon each nutmeg, cinnamon 
and ginger for one pie. Too much sugar makes the pies watery. 
Bake in a deep pie- pan as illustrated. Some steam pumpkin instead 
of stewing, when it should be placed in pan or on back of stove for 
moisture to dry out, then put through sieve. Baking is a nice way 
of preparing pumpkin; cut in pieces, take out seeds and bake until 
soft ; it will be sweet and dry without the trouble of watching and 
stirring, and may be pulped through a sieve and used immediately. 
In whatever way pumpkin is cooked, some do not take out the net- 
work inside, but simply remove seeds carefully, and some even 
leave in a few seeds, as the pulping through sieve removes the 
pieces of seed, thinking it all enriches the pulp. The propor- 
tions of ingredients are varied to suit the taste, though from 



494 PASTRY. 

half to two -thirds as much pumpkin as milk is a general rule, 
with an egg 'for each pie as above and sugar and flavoring to taste. 
Another rule, which makes very rich pies, is to each quart pumpkin 
pulp add two heaping tablespoons butter, five eggs, beaten as above, 
quart milk, cup sugar, tablespoon mixed ground spice and teaspoon 
salt ; stir the butter into pumpkin while hot ; or omit the butter and 
use twelve eggs with same proportions other ingredients. Some heat 
the mixture, stirring constantly, before putting in pans, others add 
half the milk to pumpkin and heat the rest and stir in just before 
baking. Always beat the yolks of eggs and sugar together. Serve 
pumpkin pies either warm or cold, but they are considered in their 
prime an hour after they are baked. For Eggless PumpMn-pie, 
add to each pint and a half pumpkin pulp, quart milk, tablespoon 
butter, cup sugar, little salt, tablespoon cinnamon, teaspoon ginger, 
two tablespoons flour, or one of corn-starch ; or roll crackers or 
bread-crumbs fine and use for thickening. Some use equal quan- 
tities pumpkin and milk, thinking it necessary to have them 
thicker when made without eggs, and also heat the milk in custard 
kettle, adding the flour and cooking ten minutes ; then stir it into 
the pumpkin, first having thoroughly beaten into the latter the sugar, 
or better, tablespoon and a half molasses of any kind. As the thicken- 
ing property of pumpkin varies some judgment must be used in ad- 
ding milk. Any flavoring liked may be used ; a little sassafras is deli- 
cious, grated lemon rind is also nice, and either is an agreeable change 
from nutmeg or the spices so commonly used. Half pumpkin and 
half stewed and pulped apples make a pie liked by some. Squash- 
pies are made same as pumpkin. For Dried- Pumpkin-pies, soak 
pumpkin overnight in milk, and then use as 'n any of above recipes ; 
or place pumpkin in sauce pan, add water to cover and cook till soft, 
adding water as needed ; then pulp through sieve and use as above. 
If dried pumpkin is a little scorched, or too brown, cook five or ten 
minutes, then pour off water and add fresh and finish as directed. 

Paisin-pie. — One cup each raisins, water and sugar, heaping 
tablespoon flour, and small lump butter ; put the water on raisins 
and boil five minutes ; add flour, smoothed in a little cold water, 
then add sugar, and boil five minutes longer ; stir in the butter and 
bake with a rich upper and under crust. Or take one cup each su- 
gar and raisins, one and a half of thick, sour milk, one egg, two 
teaspoons cinnamon and one of cloves ; makes two pies. Bake in 
two crusts. Another excellent pie takes one pound each raisins and 
sugar, a lemon, and tablespoon butter ; boil the raisins half day 
without cutting ; when tender, mix tablespoon flour smooth in little 
water and stir in to scald in the juice ; add grated rind of a lemon 
and the lemon, sliced, removing pith and seeds. Makes four pies, 
and will keep like mince. In any of the recipes cracker-crumbs 
may be used in place of flour, and vinegar in place of the lemon juice. 
Niee baked with a Diamond Top. 



PASTRY. 495 

Eice-pie. — To one quart boiling water, add cup rice and boil 
until soft ; remove from fire, add quart cold milk, teaspoon salt, five 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, teaspoon extract of nut- 
meg, or a grated nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Some prefer to pulp 
rice through a sieve. Bake in one crust, and raisins may be added, 
if liked. If cold boiled rice is used, heat it in the milk, and take in 
proportion of one cup rice to cup and a half sweet milk ; then add 
three tablespoons sugar beaten with yolks of two eggs and lastly the 
well-frothed whites. Slightly brown the under crust, fill and bake. 
Or to one quart boiling milk add small cup rice flour mixed in a lit- 
tle cold milk, and two tablespoons butter; when cold, stir in yolks 
of five eggs, beaten as above, flavor with vanilla, add frothed whites 
and bake in one crust, covering with a meringue made from three 
of the whites. Makes two pies. 

Tart SheUs. — These shells are made in various shapes, generally 
from Puflf Paste, and used for serving Jellies, Jams, Preserves and 
Oysters, and are also nice for anything usually served in paper cases, 
when the paste should be rolled very thin, and for Paii^ Shells baked 
delicately in any shaped patty-pans liked, but those about 
an inch and a quarter deep, are best, and always prick with 
a fork before baking to prevent blistering, or fill with uncooked rice 
to keep their shape. Any bits of pastry may be utilized for shells, 
and the latter maybe kept on hand and reheated when used for jellies 
etc., but this will not be necessary if any preparation that has to be 
heated, or placed in oven, is served in them, and must of course 
never be done when to be used for serving ice-cream, or any cold 
fruit or other creams. The shells for Ice-cream, etc., should be made 
of the paste for Cream Tarts or the Sweet Paste, page 483. ¥ ox Layer 
Shells, roll nice puff paste a quarter inch thick and with round cut- 
ter, two and a half inches in diameter, cut out number pieces wanted ; 
then cut same number pieces with cutter a half inch smaller and cut 
out the center of these with a cutter an inch and a half in diameter, 
forming rings ; brush top of first pieces cut with white of egg, place 
the rings last cut on these and bake for single-lay- 
er shells. If wanted more elaborate cut out two 
___ _ rings as above, brush tops with white of egg and 

i-ayer Shells, put togcthcr ou the clrclc of paste cut with the 

larger cutter for the bottom.making double layer shells. MakePyramid 
Shells as follows : These are used for serving Oyster, Chicken or 
Lobster Fricassee, and instead of making the individual size, they 
are sometimes made large enough to serve the fricassee entire, roll- 
ing the paste about an inch thick. An ordinary size would be nine 
or ten inches in diameter, and may be made also as Cut or Layer 
Shells, laying a plate of the desired size on the paste and cutting 
out the shape with a wet knife, using a plate with diameter about 





-19G PASTRY. 

two inches smaller for the inner round, and cutting about half 
through the paste. When baked, carefully re- 
move this round without breaking it, or the un- 
der part, and lay it aside to be used as a cover 
for the fricassee when served. If the under paste 
does not seem thoroughly cooked Avhen this is cut Large voi auveut. 
out, return to oven. The above shells, both large and small, are 
also styled Vol-au- Vents. To make Folded >S7if/?N, roll puff paste 
thin, cut into two and a half inch squares and brush each square 
over with white of beaten egg, then fold down the corners so that 
all meet in middle ; slightly press togetlier, brush with the egg, 
sift sugar over and bake in quick oven quarter of an hour; when 
done make a little hole in the middle and put in filling. In rolling 
puff paste for shells, some wet the top, before folding it the last time, 
with water or a little lemon juice. 

Chocolate Tarts. — Dissolve three tablespoons grated chocolate 
in quarter pint milk ; then add one pint scalded milk thickened 
slightly with one and a half tablespoons corn-starch ; dissolve six 
tablespoons granulated sugar in four of hot water, add half teaspoon 
cinnamon and one teaspoon melted butter. When chocolate mix- 
ture is cold add this to it, with half teaspoon vanilla and yolks of 
four eggs well beaten. Line patty-pans with puff ])aste, fill, bake 
and cover with a meringue. Or they may be lined, filled, baked 
and kept in a cool dry place for a week or two, covering with a 
meringue, and browning in oven just before serving. 

Lemon Tarts. — Mix juice and grated rind of one lemon with 
cup sugar and beaten yolk of an egg. Add half cup cold water into 
which has been stirred a heaping teaspoon corn-starch. Set pan in 
boiling water and cook till it becomes a clear jelly. If wanted richer 
add to above, the juice and rind of another lemon, three more yolks 
of eggs, teaspoon butter and one more of corn-starch. Let cool and 
fill Patty Shells with the mixture covering with meringue. Or for 
Lemon Butter^ put four rounded tablepoons soft butter, two cups 
sugar and six eggs well beaten together in a custard kettle, stir al- 
most constantly, add juice of three lemons and grated rind of two, 
and cook to consistency of honey. Pack in jars to use as wanted, 
and it will keep two or three months. To use, fill in any baked 
tart-shells and put in oven till mixture is hot. Or line patty-pans 
with the Sweet Past^, fill two-thirds full with the mixture adding a 
few pounded almonds, candied orange or lemon peel or grated Maca- 
roons if liked, and bake in moderate oven about fifteen minutes. In 
either case they may be covered with a meringue when baked, and 
returned to oven and delicately browned. For Orange Tarts, make 
as Lemon Butter using only third as much sugar and grated rind 
and juice of one large orange, instead of the lemons. Cook till like 



PASTKY. 497 

melted cheese, then take off fire and beat a minute or two with an 
egg-beater ; or a mixed preparation is as follows ; cup and a half 
sugar, grated rind and juice of two large oranges, juice of two lem- 
ons, two tablespoons butter, three yolks and one whole egg added 
last. Use as in either way in Lemon Tarts, or spread cold between 
layers of cake. In baking the tarts, it is sometimes necessary to 
cover with paper or place a pan above them on upper grate. 

Prune Tarts. — Scald prunes, remove stones, take out kernels 
and put latter into a little cranberry juice with the prunes and sugar ; 
simmer till tender, and when cold fill any shells. 

Raisin Tarts. — Heaping coffee-cup stoned and chopped raisins, 
two small cups powdered sugar, grated rind and juice of two lemons. 
Put all together in bowl and set in tea-kettle till sugar is dissolved ; 
when cool fill Patty Shells, 

Raspberry Tarts. — Prepare Cut Shells, and glaze with sugar 
boiled till it threads, sprinkling pounded loaf sugar over also. Boil 
more sugar, adding very little water, and the sugar left from glaze 
until it almost candies, and maah and stir in about a third of the 
raspberries to be used ; skim, cook five or ten minutes, remove from 
fire and let syrup cool. Fill the shells with fresh raspberries, cover 
with the cool sjTup and serve. Strawberry ox Currant Tartsma.de 
same. Or when the shells are nearly or quite done take from oven. 
and ice, returning to oven a moment or two to set the icing before 
filling. Whipped cream may be served over fruit instead of syrup. 

Strawberry Yol-au- Vent. — Make a Vol-au-Vent case as illus- 
trated in Tart Shells only not quite so large as one for Chicken or 
Oyster Fricassee. "When nearly done, use Pastry Frosting as directed. 
When done, remove the interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment 
of serving, fill it with strawberries, which should be nicely stemmed 
and sweetened. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped cream on the top 
and serve. Or the paste may be rolled to about one and a half inches 
thick, and cut out with a large fluted cutter ; bake in quick oven, 
and brush as above, or with Pastry Glaze. Always detach the cover, 
made as directed in Tart Shells, as soon as baked, and when care- 
fully removing the crumb, if the edges of Vol-au-Vent look thin in 
places, cover with small flakes from inside, put on with white of an 
egg. This precaution is necessaryto prevent the fruit (or fricassee) 
from bursting the case. If stewed fruit is used, after cooking it, boil 
the syrup till quite thick and add to fruit ; fill the Vol-au-Vent 
with this, sprinkle over a little powdered sugar and return to oven 
to glaze, or use the hot salamander. Any fruit may be used. 

Cannelons. — Roll Puff Paste very thin, and cut into piece? of 
equal size, about two inches wide and eight long; place upon each 
piece a spoonful of jam^ wet edges with white of egg, and foldpa-te 
32 




498 ^ASTJRT. 

over twice; slightly press edges together, that jam may not escape 
in frying, and when all are prepared, fry in smoking lard until a nice 
brown, setting in oven a few minutes, that the paste may be thor- 
oughly done. Dish on a napkin, sprinkle sifted sugar over and 
serve. Very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, 
such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants ; they should be laid 
in the paste, plenty of granulated sugar sprinkled over, folded and 
fried as above. Or make a stiff paste with a quarter pound flour, 
half as much white sugar, half cup melted butter 
and tablespoon grated lemon peel or essence lem- 
on; roll rather thin; make little tubes of stiff 
paper, about three inches long by one in diameter, 
butter the outside well and wrap each in some of the paste, close 
neatly on one side, and bake a few minutes in a quick oven ; when 
done and cooled a little, take out the card and nil with a jelly or 
marmalade, smoothing over open ends with knife dipped in water. 

Cheese-cakes. — Cook a cup each sweet and sour milk in custard 
kettle until it curds ; rub the curd through sieve and add to it a cup 
sugar beaten with yolks of four eggs, a pinch of salt and the juice 
and grated rind of a lemon, and a tablespoon melted butter is some- 
times added. Line patty-pans with Puff Paste rolled very thin, put 
tablespoon of above mixture in each and bake fifteen or twenty min- 
utes in moderate oven. Let cool in the pans before removing. Nice 
for dessert, luncheon or supper. 

Plum Cobhler. — Take quart flour, four tablespoons melted lard, 
half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder ; mix as for bis- 
cuit, with either sweet milk or water, roll thin, and line a pudding 
dish, about two inches deep, or dripping-pan, nine by'eighteen inches ; 
mix three tablespoons flour and two of sugar together, and sprinkle 
over crust; then pour in three pints canned damson plums, and 
sprinkle over them one coffee-cup sugar ; wet edges with a little flour 
and water mixed, put on upper crust, press edges together, make twa 
openings by cutting two incisions at right angles an inch in length.^ 
and bake in quick oven half an hour. Any kind of fresh or canned 
fruit, can be used same way, adding with fresh fruit, cold water to 
half fill the dish, after fruit is put in. A Quaker Paste may be used, 
rolling twice as thick as for ordinary pies, and some prefer to use 
only an upper crust, and for Peach Cohhler pare and halve freestones, 
but only pare and gash clings, leaving in the stones, and sweeten if 
necessary. For Apple Cohhler, pare and quarter moderately tart 
apples and finish as above. For Berry Cohhler, line the deep dish 
with a Graham Paste, rolled as above, fill with any berries, sweeten, 
cover with crust and bake. Some prick upper crust as well as cut 
the slits as in Plum Col/olcr. Use no water in either berry cobbler 
or Cherry Cohhler which is made as the former. 



PASTRY. 499 

Almond Flowers. — Roll Puff Paste out quarter inch thick, and 
with a round fluted cutter, two andahalf or three inches in diameter, 
cut out the number of pieces required. Work rest of paste up again, 
roll it out, and with a smaller cutter cut out pieces an inch in diam- 
eter. Brush larger pieces over with white of an egg, and place one 
of the smaller pieces on each. Blanch and cut almonds into strips 
lengthwise ; press them slanting into paste closely around smaller 
circles, sift over powdered sugar and bake twenty minutes. Garnish 
between the almonds with strips of apple jelly, and place in center 
of top a little strawberry jam ; pile high on dish and serve. To make 
Almond Tablets, roll Puff Paste very thin and cut with the pastry 
jagger into strips three inches and a half long, and an inch and a 
half wide. Spread half of them with a thin filmy layer of jam or 
marmalade, (not jelly) lay on each a strip without jam and bake in 
quick oyen. When well risen and brown take out, brush with Pastry 
Frosting as directed, sprinkle chopped almonds over and return to 
oven till frosting is well set, and almonds just colored. Serve hot 
or cold on napkin, piled log-cabin fashion. 

Rissolettes. — Roll out very thin, about as thick as a fifty-cent 
piece, any trimmings of Puff Paste ; put about half a tablespoon mar- 
malade or jam on it, in places about an inch apart, wet lightly round 
each, and place a piece of paste over all ; take a small round cutter 
an inch and a half in diameter and press round the part where the 
marmalade or jam is with the thick part of the cutter : cut them out 
with a cutter a size larger, lay on baking tin, brush over with white 
of egg ; add the inch circles as in Almond Flowers and finish in 
same way, omitting the almonds. Serve in pyramid form. 

Preserve Sandiciches. — Roll Puff Paste out thin and place in a 
square baking pan, cut to fit, and spread with peach, green-gage or 
any preserve ; place over this another thin layer of paste, press edges 
well together and lightly mark the top crossvnse in lines one inch 
apart, and lengthvnse two inches apart, to show where to cut when 
done. Bake half an hour and just before done use Pastry 
Frosting as directed and brown in oven. 
When cold, cut off" in two-inch lengths, 
arrange in a circle overlapping each other, 
as illustrated and serve with whipped cream 
c , < ,, ill center. 

Preserve Samlwiches. 

Peach Short-cake. — Bake three sheets of sponge-cake as for 
jelly cake ; cut peaches in thin slices and sprinkle with sugar a few 
minutes before using, keeping closely covered ; prepare cream by 
whipping, sweetening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired ; put 
layers of peaches between the sheets of cake, and also on top, and 
pour the cream over each layer and over the top. Stravjberrij and 
Raspberry Short-cake mside same way. Or, instead of the whipped 
cream, spread a meringue over each layer of fruit, allowing white of 
one egg for each layer. 




500 PASTRY. 

Strawberry Short-cake. — Bake a sponge-cake in three or four 
layers, or cut the sheet obtained from baker to fit the platter, and 
build by placing on each layer or sheet, a layer of strawberries 
prepared as aboye, and covering with custard, previously made as 
follows : Heat pint milk with half cup sugar to almost boiling, then 
stir in well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and stir until it begins to 
thicken ; let cool and flavor with vanilla or almond extract. May 
be handsomely finished by placing layer of berries on top, covered 
with a meringue of the whites of eggs ; or leave ofi" the berries and 
Avhip into the meringue enough bright jelly to color nicely and heap 
on top. Or, if wanted served individually, line paper cases with 
strips of sponge-cake cut to fit the sides, then fit in a bottom piece 
and fill with the following preparations. Mash 
quart strawberries with two cups sugar and rub 
through sieve ; dissolve one and a half ounces gel- 
atine in a cup milk, set where it will warm gradu- Saratoga suon cake. 
ally ; whip three pints thick sweet cream, to a froth, then whip in 
dissolved gelatine, add strawberry pulp, and when partially stifiened 
fill the prepared cases, cover each with a layer of strawberries, care- 
fully setting each berry on end, and sprinkle powdered sugar over. 
Put away in a cool place until ready to serve. The above quantity 
will fill fifty cases, and may be served in Patty Shells or Vol-au-vents 
instead of the- cases, and with much less trouble. The flavor of 
strawberries is much improved by mixing with each quart berries 
before sprinkling with sugar, two or three oranges, cut into bits 
about the size of berries, or simply adding the orange juice. For 
Royal Strawberry Short-cake, make a batter as in Mystic Orange Cake 
and put in square pans to the depth of three quarters of an inch ; 
when baked cut in two and spread bottom layer with part of a filling 
made as follows ; beat whites of four eggs to a foam, add two-thirds 
pint of pulverized sugar and beat till perfectly stiff". Now cover this 
with a layer of even-sized berries, tops up and sprinkle with sugar; 
put other layer on this with top next berries and cover the cut side 
with the filling and berries as before ; cut in squares and serve with 
ice-cold cream, sweetened and flavored with orange juice. Whipping 
the cream makes it more delicious. Whipped cream may be used 
also for filling. Another batter for layers is two-thirds pint powd- 
ered sugar, half pint butter, grated rind of half a lemon, five eggs, 
added one at a time, pint flour and two teaspoons orange juice. 
For an Apple Short-cake, line a square baking-pan with a quarter 
inch crust made of quart flour, gill each butter and sugar, half tea- 
spoon salt and scant pint cold milk or water, cover with thick layer 
of sliced tart apples, sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, (little 
water if needed), then a layer of crust, then apples, and so on with 
crust last ; bake half an hour and serve with cold cream and sugar. 



PICKLES. 501 



PICKLES. 



Pickles are an indispensable appetizer for the table, and they 
may be made in so many forms and from such a variety of material 
that there is room for the exercise of both taste and skill in their 
production. As a pure cider vinegar is indispensable to good pickles, 
home-made ones are the best, as the pickles sold in market are 
nearly always put up in inferior vinegar. A small lump of 
alum to gallon of cucumbers, dissolved and added to vinegar when 
scalding the first time, renders them crisp and tender. Keep pickles 
in a dry, cool cellar, in glass or stone jars ; If in latter, examine 
frequently and remove all soft ones ; if white specks appear in vine- 
gar, drain off, scald, add a liberal handful sugar to each gallon, and 
pour again over pickles ; bits of horse-radish and a few cloves as- 
sist in preserving the life of vinegar. If put away in large stone 
jars, invert a saucer over pickles to keep them well under the vine- 
gar. The best way to put up pickles of all kinds is in bottles or in 
self-sealing glass cans, sealing while hot, and keeping in a cool, dark 
place. When porcelain-lined tops are not used, always grease in- 
side of can-lids to prevent the moisture from adhering to and rust- 
ing them. For the bottles take old pickle bottles with corks, or 
wide-mouthed bottles without covers. Have ready cloth covers cut 
round to fit over mouth of bottle, sealing-wax, and strips of muslin 
as wide as tape for tying. Many think that mustard seed improves 
pickles, especially Chopped, Florida and Mangoes, but use it, as 
horseradish and cloves, sparingly. For Pickles in Brine, never put 
them in anything that has ever held any kind of grease, but use an 
oaken tub or cask, keep them well under, and have more salt than 
will diesolve, so that there will always be plenty at bottom of cask, 



502 PICKLES. 

and never let them freeze. The brine should be strong enough to 
bear an egg ; make it in proportion of a heaping pint of coarse salt 
to a gallon of water. If too much salt has been used, correct by let- 
ting pickles soak longer in water when wanted, adding weak vine- 
gar at first, then draining and adding strong vinegar. If not suf- 
ficiently salted the pickles will be insipid. In making pickles by 
first placing in salt over night or longer, use coarse salt and test 
by tasting pickles before putting on vinegar as they should be of a 
pleasant saltness ; if not salt enough, add more and let stand until 
of the proper flavor ; if too salt, cover with weak vinegar, and let 
stand two or three days, drain, add strong vinegar, either hot or 
cold, according to recipes, and finish as directed. In scalding cu- 
cumber pickles, to green them, cabbage or grape leaves may be used 
for covering bottom, sides and top of kettle. The usual spicing for 
a quart of pickles is a level teaspoon each pepper-corns, (whole 
black peppers), celery seed and allspice, tablespoon broken stick 
cinnamon, half teaspoon cloves, mustard seed and grated horse- 
radish, and a piece of ginger root an inch long. If cayenne pepper 
is used instead of whole peppers, an eighth of a teaspoon is enough. 
Or garden peppers cut in rings, in proportion of two rings of green 
and one of red without seeds, or a level teaspoon, when finely 
chopped, may be used to a quart of pickles, instead of pepper-corns. 
The proportion may b ■ increased or decreased to suit the taste. 
Ginger is the most wholesome of the epices. Cloves are the strong- 
est, mace next, then allspice and cinnamon, and, of course, less of 
the stronger should be used. Scalding or parboiling articles to be 
pickled makes them absorb the vinegar more easily, but does not 
add to their crispness. Before putting them in vinegar, after par- 
boiling, they should be cold and 'perfectly dry. As heating weakens 
it, vinegar for pickles should be very strong, and should only be 
brought to boiling point and immediately poured on pickles. Keep 
pickles from the air, and when put away in stone jars, if hot vinegar 
is used, cover, hut do not tie down closely till cold] a good covering is 
first a cloth, then an oil-cloth cover tied over jar; always see that 
the vinegar is at least two inches over the top of the pickles. A di^y 
wooden spoon or ladle is the only kind that should touch pickles in 
jars. If the vinegar loses its strength it should be replaced by fresh, 
poured over scalding hot. Some keep pickles from molding by plac- 
ing horse-radish or grape leaves over them ; this also gives a nice 
flavor. Clove of Garlic^ given in recipes, is a piece size of a small bean. 



PICKLES. 503 

Pickled Apples, — Procure green apples size of walnuts and 
cook till tender over slow fire in pan with thick layer of vine leaves 
on bottom. Pare with sharp knife, put in same water first cooked 
in, cover closely and leave till a nice green ; drain in colander till 
cold, put in jars with some mace and a clove or two of garlic, accord- 
ing to quantity of apples, cover with vinegar and tie down as directed. 

Pickled Beans. — Gather young beans and put in strong brine of 
salt and water ; when turning yellow, which will be in a day or two, 
take out and wipe dry. ■ Boil vinegar, adding two ounces pepper 
and one ounce each ginger and mace to each quart, and pour over 
the beans. A small bit of alum, or teaspoon soda will bring back 
the color. Cover to keep in steam, reboil vinegar next day and pour 
over hot as before. Or string, wash and cook till tender, take off, 
cool and salt as if to use fresh ; pack away in a stone jar or nice 
tub, add a weight, then prepare a weak brine and pour over ; cover, 
and in a few weeks they will be sour. 

Pickled Beets. — Select fine red beets and be careful to clean 
without bruising the skin, or they will lose much of their color and 
sweetness in cooking. Boil two hours and when cold rub off skin 
and place whole in jar, (some slice them but they are not as fresh 
when served) ; cover with vinegar, first boiled with spices in propor- 
tion of half an ounce each cloves, pepper-corns, mace and ginger to 
each pint, adding when cold another pint ; cover closely and they 
will be ready for use next day, when they can be sliced as wanted. 
Or take a half cup sugar to each pint vinegar, flavoring to taste with 
cinnamon and cloves, boil and pour over beets and repeat this sev- 
eral days. Before serving cut the slices into stars, leaves or any 
shapes fancied, and a very ornamental dish results. If white beets 
are pickled separately, the slices in same shapes are a nice addition, 
alternated with the red. 

Pickled Cahhage. — Shave firm white cabbage into wooden or 
earthen vessel, sprinkling in a handful salt to each cabbage, and let 
stand overnight ; then drain off brine, pressing cabbage well and 
pack in earthen jars in layers with half cup mustard seed to each 
head, sprinkled through ; nil up with cold vinegar, cover closely 
and keep in cool dark place. Or quarter small solid heads, and 
boil in weak salt water until they can be pierced through with a 
straw ; then lay on dishes and put in sun an hour or two to drain 
and bleach. Put in jar, pour over enough weak vinegar to cover 
with a teaspoon tumeric stirred in and let stand one week. Pour 
off and fill jar with best cider vinegar, in which is mixed one cup 
ground mustard, half cup mustard seed, and a little sugar ; put in 
also a few spices of different kinds in a little bag. Cover closely; 
ready for use in a few days and will come out a bright yellow. 
Pickled Cauliflower or Onions prepared the same way. 



504 PICKLES. 

Pickled Cherries, — Leave stems on fine red, not too ripe, cherries, 
and for each quart take a pint vinegar and cup sugar ; boil these 
together ten minutes, skim, and when cold pour over the cherries, 
packed in jar. Cover closely. If the fruit is nice the pickles will 
be very handsome, and are nice for garnishing. 

Pickled Eggs. — Boil the eggs ten or fifteen minutes, dip in cold 
water, take off shells and prepare the vinegar by boiling with each 
quart, a half ounce each black pepper, Jamaica pepper and ginger 
tied in a bag; put eggs in jar, pour boiling vinegar over, put in bag 
of spices, and when cold tie down to exclude the air. The above 
will pickle about sixteen eggs. Some spice with two teaspoons 
each allspice, cinnamon and mace to quart vinegar, and dilute with 
pint water. Eggs are also nice pickled with beets, or in the vinegar 
from them, and are not only always relishable, but ornamental as 
well, and nice for garnishing. 

Pickled Grapes. — Cut bunches when hardly ripe and put in jar 
with vine leaves between each layer of grapes until jar is filled ; then 
take as much water as will cover grapes and leaves, add salt till 
strong enough to bear an egg ; when it boils, skim, strain through 
flannel bag and let stand to settle ; strain a second time and pour 
upon the grapes, which must be well covered; fill the jar with vine 
leaves, tie over a double cloth, set a plate upon it and stand two 
days; then take off the cloth, pour away the brine, take out leaves 
and grapes, and lay them between two cloths to dry ; boil two quarts 
of vinegar with one of water, and pound sugar, and skim very clean; 
let Btand till cold. Wipe the jar very clean and dry, lay fresh vine 
leaves at the bottom between every bunch of grapes and on top ; 
strain the pickle on the grapes, filling the jar; tie a thin piece of 
board in flannel, lay it on the grapes to keep them under the pickle 
and tie down closely with cloth and paper. 

Pickled Nasturtiums- — It is best to gather the green seeds on 
a dry day. This is also necessary in picking any vegetable for pick- 
ling. Some put seeds in vinegar for a day, then drain, boil the 
vinegar, adding a little salt, a few pepper-corns, a small bit of green 
ginger-root, or mace, and a pinch of sugar. Pour over the seeds 
boiling hot, and cork tightly. Or soak as gathered for twenty-four 
hours, drain, place in cold vinegar and when all are thus prepared 
drain and cover with boiling vinegar, not spiced. Or if put- 
ting up a quantity, let soak in brine three days, drain and finish 
as above. Nasturtium pickles are a delicious relish with cold meat 
or raw oysters, and are an excellent substitute for capers in sauces. 

Pickled Onions. — Select small Silver-skin onions, remove with 
a knife all the outer skins, so that each onion will be perfectly 
white and clean ; put into brine that will float an egg, for three 
days, then put in glass jars, and adding spices and small red 



PICKLES. 505 

peppers, or rings of large ones, fill with cold vinegar and seal ; put- 
ting tablespoon salad oil over top of each can will prevent onions turn- 
ing yellow. Do not cut onions so much in peeling that they will fall 
apart. Some scald spices with the vinegar instead of putting in lay- 
ers, while others like flavor of equal quantities white mustard, cor- 
iander and celery seed, allspice, and pepper-corns. If wanted very 
nice and white prepare as follows : Gather the onions, which should 
not be too small, when quite dry and ripe ; wipe off dirt, but do not 
pare ; make a strong brine of salt and water, put in the onions, 
change this, morning and night, for three days, and save the last 
brine. Take off the outside skin, and put onions in tin saucepan 
with equal quantities milk and the last brine ; add two tablespoons 
salt, put over fire, and constantly turn the onions about with a 
wooden skimmer, letting milk and water run through holes of skim- 
mer, but the onions must not boil, and in stirring be careful not to 
break them. Have ready a pan with a colander, into which turn 
the onions to drain, covering with a cloth to keep in steam. Place 
on a table an old cloth two or three times double ; put the onions 
on this when quite hot, covering closely with an old piece of blanket 
to keep in the steam ; let remain till next day, when they will be 
quite cold, and look yellow and shrivelled ; take off the shrivelled 
skins, when they should be as white as snow, and put in jar. Make 
a pickle of vinegar and spices in proportion of an ounce each bruised 
ginger, allspice, whole black pepper, one grated nutmeg, quarter 
ounce mace, eight cloves and a teaspoon cayenne to two quarts 
vinegar ; boil and pour hot over the onions. Cover very closely to 
keep in all steam, and let stand over night. Put them into jars or 
bottles, cover with the spiced vinegar, put a tablespoon best olive 
oil on the top of each jar, tie down closely and let stand in a cool 
place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit for use. They 
should be beautifully white and crisp, without the least softness, 
and will keep good many months. Pickled Spanish Onions are 
prepared by cutting in thin slices ; put a layer in bottom of jar, 
sprinkle with salt and cayenne, then add another layer of onions, 
season as before, and so on urttil jar is full ; pour in sufficient vine- 
gar to cover the whole, and the pickle will be fit for use in a month. 

Pickled Peaches. — Take those of full growth, but perfectly 
green. To a gallon of vinegar add half ounce each cloves, pepper- 
corns, sliced ginger, mustard seed and a little salt, boil and pour 
over the peaches scalding hot. Drain off vinegar from them several 
mornings, heat scalding hot, and pour over them. 

Pickled Plums. — Take plums before they are quite ripe, and 
put in saucepan with vinegar, salt water, fennel seed, and dill, as 
much of each as will impart a flavor to pickle ; when it boils put in 
plums, let boil again, then take off", let stand till cold, and put in jars. 



506 PICKLES. 

Pickled Sweet-Corn. — Take the "nubbins" of early corn where 
there are too many forming on the stalk, while very small and ten- 
der. Trim neatly, and boil them five minutes in water slightly salt- 
ed. Drain and put them in a jar. Boil good vinegar enough to cover 
and 250ur it boiling hot over the corn and let remain so until next 
day, drain and boil the vinegar again, adding a little salt. Place 
corn in jar and cover with vineger when partially cold. Cork the 
jar and seal it. Any spices maybe placed in jar, with a good sprink- 
ling of mustard seed ; and a bay leaf or two, and a few shallots may 
be boiled with vinegar. 

Pickled Walnuts. — Gather and pierce the nuts with a needle, 
cover them with brine, allowing one and a half pounds salt to one 
gallon water, and let stand in cool place three weeks. Drain in 
colander, wash and wipe jars return the walnuts, cover with best 
cider vinegar, and lot stand one month ; take out, rinse and wipe 
jars, put in nuts and sprinkle with an ounce mustard seed. To as 
much fresh vinegar as will cover them, add one ounce each cloves, 
black pepper and stick cinnamon, half an ounce each mace, and 
race ginger, and boil ten minutes. When cold pour over nuts, cover, 
and seal. 

Chopped Pickles. — Put eight ounces each chopped onions and 
apples, and two of chopped chillies, (cayenne pepper pods), in ajar. 
Boil pint vinegar with a large tablespoon salt and pour this over, 
mix Avell, and when quite cold put it into smaller jars if preferred. 
To be eaten with cold meat. 

Cucumber Pickles. — It often happens in putting up cucumber 
pickles that only a few can be gathered or bought at a time ; these 
can be easily pickled as follows : Place in jar, sprinkle with salt, in 
proportion of pint salt to peck cucumbers, cover with boiling water, 
let stand twenty-four hours, drain, cover with fresh hot water ; after 
another twenty-four hours, drain, place in jar, and cover with cold, 
not very strong vinegar ; continue to treat each lot in this manner, 
using two jars, one for scalding and the other as a final receptacle 
for pickles, until there is enough for pickling, when drain and cover 
with boiling cider vinegar, add spices, and in a few days they will 
be ready for use. Sugar may be added if wished. Always use fresh 
vinegar, either hot or cold, to pour over salted pickles that have 
been cooked in plain vinegar, or vinegar with a lump of alum in it. 
Al cucumbers and sour pickles kept in stone jars, can be made as 
good as new at any time, by draining off old vinegar, and pouring 
over fresh,;boiling hot, adding a little sugar. It well repays one to do 
this late in the Winter. Cider vinegar is the only kind "we have re- 
commended, as it is the best one can buy ; but the Economical Vine- 
gar given in Kitchen, which is really a home-made cider vinegar is 
equally good and has been thoroughly tested and "not found want- 
ing." For Self-Made Pickles, put one gallon sorghum molasses in jar 



PICKLES. 507 

barrel with two of water and let stand until it begins to ferment; 
then rinse and drain cucumbers, put them in the barrel, cover with 
a cloth and board with a weight on top, rinse off the cloth every 
time cucumbers are added. If the vinegar turns white add more 
molasses. These pickles will keep a year. Some use three gallons 
water to one of molasses and stir the pickles every day until ready 
for use. For Sliced Cucumber Pickles, peel and slice kirge, green 
cucumbers that would be suitable for table, and if gathered from 
the garden, leave apiece of the ctiettmber on vine, as the latter will not 
be as much weakened and when former arv. to be sliced for pickles, or 
used fresh there is not the necessity for leaving on a portion of stem, 
Slice about one-fourth their bulk of onions ; place in ajar or crock, 
large enough to hold pickles when finished, a layer of sliced cucum- 
bers, then a thin layer of onions, so on alternating, fill jar within an 
inch of top. Put two or three handfuls of salt on top of pickles, 
which will make their own brine. Let stand twenty-four hours ; 
then squeeze the pickles out of brine, pack in dry stone jar and just 
cover with vinegar. Make a paste of eight teaspoons fine olive oil, 
two dessertspoons ground mustard and one teaspoon white pepper ; 
mix well together and put over top of pickles. The pickles will be 
ready for use in two days and will keep as long as desired. Or omit 
the onions, and after standing twenty-four hours drain off* the liqour, 
pack in jars, a thick layer of salt and cucumbers alternately, tie 
down closely and when wanted take out quantity required. Wash 
them well in fresh water and dress with vinegar, pepper and oil. 

Higdo7i Pickles. — One dozen ripe cucumbers and one quart 
onions chopped quite fine ; put both in a cloth, squeeze all the water 
out, add four green peppers, and a little celery chopped ; mix all 
well together and season with salt, ground cinnamon and mustard, 
little salad oil, black and white mustard seed and a little sugar ; 
cover with cold vinegar. 

Marty nia Pickles- — Gather the pods when green and tender; 
wash, wipe dry and place in jar ; take enough water to cover them, 
first boiling with it salt, in proportion of one pint to each half gallon; 
skim and pour over the pods ; let stand two or three days, drain, 
place them in clean, dry jar and pour over boiling vinegar, spiced 
as liked, and a little sugar may also be added. These are a new and 
delicious pickle. 

Mixed Pickles. — One-half peck green tomatoes, twenty-five 
medium-sized cucumbers, fifteen large white onions, one-half peck 
small onions, four heads cabbages, pint grated horseradish, half 
pound white mustard seed, a quarter pound ground mustard, half 
cup ground black pepper, half pint salad oil, ounce celery seed, half 
ounce ground cinnamon, two ounces turmeric. Slice tomatoes and 
large onions, cut cabbage as for slaw, quarter cucumbers lengthwise, 



508 PICKLEB. 

cut in pieces two inches long, leaving on the peel, and add small 
onions whole. Mix with salt thoroughly, let stand twenty-four 
hours ; drain off juice, and pour some vinegar and water over pickles. 
Let stand a day or two, drain again as dry as possible ; mix spices 
well except the ground mustard, then boil one and one-half gallons 
best vinegar and pour boiling hot over the pickles; do this three 
mornings in- succession, using the same vinegar each time. The 
third time add one pound sugar to the vinegar and boil, pouring 
over as above ; also mix the oil and ground mustard together ^vith 
a small portion of the vinegar, and add when cold. Oil can be omit- 
ted if not relished. Or for Hanover Pickles^ take one peck toma- 
toes, half head cabbage, cut with slaw cutter ; two bunches of celery 
or a little celery seed, three or more small carrots, using only the 
red part, six onions, five bell peppers ; chop and mix together, 
sprinkle in seeds and pour on a pint molasses ; heat three pints vine- 
gar, two tablespoons each ground clove?, cinnamon and yellow mus- 
tard and pour over scalding hot. Excellent and improves with age. 

Green Tomato Pickles. — Two gallons green tomatoes sliced 
without peeling and twelve good sized onions, also sliced. Stew un- 
til quite tender, then add two quarts vinegar, one of sugar, two small 
tablespoons salt, two tablespoons each ground mustard and black 
pepper, tablespoon each allspice and cloves. Put up in small jars. 

Universal Pickles. — To six quarts vinegar allow one pound 
salt, one-fourth pound ginger, one ounce mace, half pound shallots, 
tablespoon cayenne, two ounces mustard seed, one and a half of 
turmeric. Boil all altogether twenty minutes ; when cold, put into 
ajar with whatever vegetables liked, such as radish pods, French beans 
cauliflower, gherkins, etc., as these come into season : put them in 
fresh as gathered, wiping them perfectly free from moisture and 
grit. This pickle will be fit for use in about eight or nine months. 
As this pickle takes two or three months to make, nearly that time 
will elapse before all the different vegetabes are added ; care must be 
taken to keep the jar well covered, either with a closely fitting lid, 
or a piece of oil-cloth or Luttered paper so as perfectly to exclude the 
air. This is an English recipe and a decided innovation in pick- 
ling. 

West India Pickle. — Take one white crisp cabbage, two heads 
cauliflower, three heads celery, one quart each small green plums, 
peaches, grapes, radish pods, nasturtium seeds artichokes, tomatoes 
and string beans, the green rind of a water-melon after paring, one 
quart small onions parboiled in milk, one hundred small cucumbers 
about an inch long, a few green peppers, and three limes or green 
lemons ; cut fine the cabba^ , cauliflower, celery, pepper, limes and 
green ginger; mix well with the rest, then pour a strong hot brine 
over, and let stand three hours ; take out and drnin overnight. 
Mix one ounce turmeric powder, with a little cold vinegar, add one 



PICKLES. 509 

bottle French mustard, ground cinnamon, allspice, two nutmegs, 
black pepper, four pounds white sugar and one gallon vinegar, and 
pour boiling hot over the pickle ; if not sufficient liquid to moisten 
nicely, add more vinegar. 

Buckeye ChowcAouK — Take six heads cabbage, half bushel green 
tomatoes, twenty onions, and eighteen large cucumbers, peeled ; 
chop each separately, drain overnight, first sprinkling with salt. 
In morning take two pounds brown sugar, two gallons best cider 
vinegar, four ounces mixed spices, one-half dozen small red peppers, 
chopped, four ounces ground mustard, two each of white mustard 
seed and celery seed. Put vinegar on stove with spices and sugar, 
and let come to a boil, add the pickles, Avell drained, and heat all to 
boiling point ; can and seal. Some cook an hour or two. In drain- 
ing vegetables put in cloth sacks, hanging where they can drip. 
Or take in all a gallon of pickles, green shelled beans, corn, small 
pickles, small cantelopes, green tomatoes, and squashes ; cut in 
small pieces, sprinkle with two tea-cups salt, just cover with water, 
and let stand overnight, then rinse well in cold water. Put two 
quarts vinegar in porcelain kettle with cup sugar, five tablespoons 
whole white mustard seed, and three tablespoons celery seed ; boil 
five minutes, put in the pickles, and boil half an hour ; mix one- 
fourth pound ground mustard in a little vinegar and stir it just as 
it is taken from fire. Instead of chopping the vegetables, etc., they 
may be })ut through the sausage grinder, if wanted cut fine, and 
some add a pint grated horse-radish. 

Haiokeye Mangoes. — Take green muskmelons, prepared and 
soaked in brine, as directed, and scald them in vinegar spiced with 
cinnamon and cloves. For filling, chop fine two medium-sized 
heads of cabbage, sprinkle with salt and let stand overnight ; 
add one pound each chopped raisins, white mustard and celery 
seed, three pints grated horse-radish, one of nasturtium seed, a 
little ground mustard, ounce turmeric, pint olive oil, cup sugar, 
one nutmeg, grated, and a few small pickles added if desired. 
When melons are filled, sew in piece, place in jar and cover with 
vinegar, either hot or cold, adding a little sugar, if wished. For a 
Horse-radish Filling, take in proportion of one-third grated horse- 
radish to two-thirds mustard seed, and to a quart of this, use tea- 
spoon each mace, ground mustard, sugar and celery seed, two of 
grated onion, dozen pepper corns, a little ginger and half teaspoon 
salad oil. 

Picallilli. — Take half bushel green tomatoes, an equal quantity 
of cabbage, and one dozen each onions and green peppers, or 
cayenne if green peppers cannot be had ; chop all fine, mix, sprinkle 
one pint salt over and through them, and let stand overnight. In 
the morning drain off brine, cover with good vinegar and 
boil slowly one hour. Then drain and put in a jar. 
Take two pounds brown sugar, two tablespoons each celery seed. 



510 PICKLES. 

and cinnamon, one each allspice and cloves, two grated nutmegs, 
one half cup ground pepper and one pint horse-radish with vinegar 
to mix. Boil all together and pour over contents of jar. Cover 
tight or bottle and seal while hot. Or the ingredients, proportions 
or spices may be varied to suit the taste. An excellent pickle is 
made by chopping together gherkins, small onions, red peppers, 
nasturtiums, cauliflower, and the small heart of a cabbage — four 
quarts in all ; put in brine for thirty-six hours, then drain well and 
put in jars. Rub two ounces each curry and dry mustard with half 
pint salad or sweet oil, add an ounce and a half ginger, an ounce 
turmeric, half pound sugar, and boil with two quarts vinegar until 
thickened ; then pour over the pickles and cover. 

Olives. — Serve in pickle dishes with broken ice strewn upon 
them. When the flavor of olives is not at first appreciated, it is 
best to soak overnight in fresh water, and then place in vinegar. A 
capital pickle is thus made, and those eating them this way soon 
learn to like them without this preparation. Stuffed Olives make a 
delicious dish. Olives are also used in sauces for entrees, and for 
garnishing salads, meats, etc. 



Sweet IPickles. 



Sweet pickles may be made of any fruit that can be preserved, 
including rinds of ripe melons and cucumbers. The fruit must be 
ripe, but not soft ; peaches, plums, and cherries should be pickled 
whole ; pears also may be whole, or nicely halved, cored, and pared ; 
quinces, after being parboiled, must be pared, quartered, and cored ; 
if large, cut in eighths. Plums and other smooth-skinned fruits 
should be well pricked before cooking. The usual proportion of 
sugar to vinegar for syrup is three pints to a quart, making what 
is called a Single Syrup. A richer proportion known as Double 
Syrup is four pints sugar to a pint vinegar. When making it, this 
will seem too rich, but the pickles canned with it will be perfectly 
delicious, and can scarcely be told from brandied fruit. Sweet 
pickles may be made of any preserve by boiling over the syrup, add- 
ing spices and vinegar and pouring hot over the fruit. Examine 
frequently and re-scald the syrup if there are signs of fermentation. 
The principal spices used are stick cinnamon and whole cloves; 
and either granulated, "coffee C," or good stirred maple sugar. All 
that is necessary to keep sweet pickles when not canned, but kept 
in stone jars is to have syrup enough to cover, and keep the fruit 



SWEET PICKLES. 511 



well under. Drain each morning, boil the syrup and pour hot over 
the fruit until the latter is of same color throughout, and syrup 
like molasses ; one can hasten the process, by cooking the syrup quite 
awhile each morning, instead of simply bringing to a boil. Watch 
every week, particularly if weather is warm, and if scum rises and 
syrup assumes a whitish appearance, boil, skim, and pour over the 
fruit. If at any time syrup is lacking, prepare more as at first. 
Put spices in jar when pickles are almost done, as directed in Peach 
Pickles; and when putting in hot fruit or syrup, set jar near stove, 
put in only a little fruit at a time, and when all is in, pour syrup 
over slowly. This care will prevent a cracked jar. 

Canning is much the nicest way of putting up sweet pickles, 
and some can Chowchow and other sour pickles. Make the syrup 
in proportions given in the recipe used, putting in the spices loose, 
or tied loosely in piece of cheese-cloth ; or cloves, two or three may be 
stuck in the fruit, if latter is whole, as peaches, pears, etc., and the 
cinnamon cooked in the syrup. Cook the fruit in the syrup until 
tender, and prepare cans and fruit as directed in Canning Fruit. 
When pickling the light-fleshed fruits, only a small quantity should 
be pared at a time, as they darken very quickly, and two kettles 
should be used, one for cooking the fruit and the other for making 
extra syrup to be added when needed. When canning either 
pickles or fruit, after filling cans take out a sufficient quantity of 
the hot syrup to fill up the cans as directed, after the fruit has set- 
tled ; and keep it hot for this purpose by setting in a pan of boiling 
water until wanted. This enables one to work more expeditiously, 
for fresh fruit can then be placed in kettle, adding syrup from that 
made ready in second kettle ; or making more syrup in same kettle, 
then adding fruit and letting it cook while finishing cans first filled. 
A dozen whole pears or twenty whole peaches will fill a quart can. 
Some sprinkle the sugar over fruit, let stand overnight, then boil 
juice with the vinegar and spices fifteen minutes ; put in fruit, boil 
ten minutes, and can as directed ; or put in stone jar, reheating 
syrup as above, allowing to every seven pounds fruit, three pounds 
sugar and pint cider vinegar, two ounces each whole cloves and 
stick cinnamon. Always use a silver fork to test pickles, and keep 
the latter in a cool, dry place; if canned, place in Fruit Closet, page 
147. In ventilating this closet it is well to place the opening or 
holes, in one side as well as door, or if closet is not placed in corner 



512 PICKLES. 

of room, put them in the two sides opposite each other. While en- 
dorsing strongly the cider vinegar, the Economical Vinegar, recipe 
for which is given in Kitchen,is equally good and has been thorough- 
ly tested. When wishing to renew sweet pickles, drain, add to, and 
heat with the old syrup,more vinegar and sugar, in proportions first 
used. One must not use all fresh vinegar, nor throw away the old 
syrup, as is the case in sour pickles (see Cucumbers Pickles), nor is 
there the same need to do so, for sweet pickles are more like pre- 
serves, the syrup being really used as a part of the pickles as well 
as acting as a preservative. 



Pickled Apples. — For one peck sweet apples take three pounds 
sugar, two quarts vinegar, half ounce each cinnamon and cloves ; 
pare apples, leaving them whole ; boil in part of vinegar and sugar 
until they can be pierced with fork ; take them out, heat remainder 
of vinegar and sugar and pour over them. Be careful not to boil 
them long or they will bieak. Or, take three pounds sugar, seven 
pounds apples, quartered and cored and one pint vinegar. Steam 
apples till a fork will pierce them. Then make a syrup of sugar and 
vinegar and pour over them while hot. Stick a clove or two into 
each quarter. For Pickled Crah-Apples^ steam as above, watch- 
ing closely, as they cook very quickly. When the skin is just ready 
to break, take out, and place in the hot Single or Double Syrup, al- 
ready prepared in kettle ; cook only a moment or two, and then can 
as directed. Some pick the apples just like plums. 

Pickled Blackherries. — Three quarts blackberries, one quart 
vinegar, one quart sugar ; put all together and boil ten or fifteen 
minutes. Put up and seal in glass cans. Cinnamon or any spices 
to taste may be added, but very nice without. 

Pickled Grapes. — Clip the grapes from main stem with scissors 
and pack snugly in stone jar; make a Single Syrup and add table- 
spoon whole cloves and two of cinnamon bark, and pour over 
grapes in jar; set away three or four days; then drain off vinegar, 
boil and pour over again ; repeat for a third time, and any time 
afterwards should the grapes be inclined to sour. They may be 
pickled in bunches if preferred, taking care to remove all imperfect 
fruit. Pears, Peaches and Figs are nice pickled same. 

Ripe Cucumher Pickles. — Cut large, ripe, solid cucumbers in 
rings, pare, divide into smaller pieces and remove seeds, cook pieces 
very slightly in weak vinegar, with salt enough to season well ; drain, 
and put in stone jar in layers with a few slices of onions, some cay- 
enne popper, whole allspice, Avhole cloves, bits of cinnamon bark, 
and celery seed (according to taste) between each layer of cucum 
ber. Then cover with ayrup mad« of one pound su^r to one tixxoxi 



PICKLES. 513 

cider vinegar, boiled for about five minutes. Put in stone jars and 
cover closely or can as directed. Sprinkling the onion slices with 
a little salt and sugar, covering with vinegar and letting stand two 
or three hours greatly improves the pickles, which are made very 
nice as follows : After cooking in the weak vinegar, make the 
syrup and pour it hot over them, repeat this four or five mornings, 
cooking both syruj) and cucumbers the last time; then place the 
latter in cans with alternate layers of onions and spices, covering 
with the syrup and canning as above. Some first soak cucumber 
pieces overnight in weak vinegar and water, then parboil in same. 

Pear Pickles. — Make a syrup of one pint vinegar and four pints 
sugar ; cook five or ten minutes, skimming if necessary ; add ten or 
twelve Bartlett pears, peeled and whole, and three or four pieces 
cinnamon and a dozen cloves tied loosely in a square of cheese- 
cloth. Cook fruit as above ; then place in a glass quart can, pre- 
pared as in Canning Fruit ; fill with syrup, seal and finish as di- 
rected. Add more fruit to kettle, and as needed, more syrup pre- 
pared as above. It is better to can only one or two quarts at a, 
time, as fruit darkens so easily. The putting of enough hot syrup 
in a bowl, as directed in preface, with which to fill up cans, expe- 
dites matters greatly. Peaches and any fruit except water-melon 
may be pickled thus and will greatly resemble brandied fruit. 

Sliced Tomato Pickles. — Wash and cut offends of peck green 
tomatoes, slice, sprinkle with salt as in Chopped Pickles and let 
stand overnight; drain, and cover with cold weak vinegar for 
twenty-four hours, then pour all in kettle, boil ten minutes and 
drain. Make a Single Syrup, as directed, when hot add tomatoes, 
boil three minutes and pack in jar in layers with spices. 

Spiced Currants. — Put an ounce cinnamon, half ounce cloves 
and tablespoon each ground mace and allspice in a bag and boil 
with four pounds currants and two of sugar to a thick syrup. 
When nearly done add pint vinegar and put away in jelly tumblers 
or glass cans. Some add three pounds raisins, and one pint more 
vinegar. 

Spiced Peaches. — Boil three pounds sugar and a pint and a half 
vinegar with ounce whole cloves and two of stick cinnamon ; two 
or three of the former, with their heads off, may be stuck in each 
peach ; then put in seven pounds peeled peaches and let them heat 
through thoroughly. Skim out fruit and put in stone jars, boii 
syrup until thick and pour over peaches. Pears, Plums and 
Cherries may be prepared same way. 

Spiced Tomatoes. — Peel and slice seven pounds ripe tomatoes, 
put in preserving kettle, with half their weight in sugar, a pint vin- 
egar, and tablespoon each whole cloves, allspice, pepper-corns, salt, 



614 SWEET PICKLES. 



and teaspoon mace ; boil slowly two hours, stirring often enough, to 
prevent burning ; then cool in kettle, and put in self-sealing cans. 

Cayenne Vinegar. — Put a pint vinegar in bottle with a half 
ounce cayenne pepper and let stand a month ; then strain and bot- 
tle for use. An excellent seasoning for soups and sauces, but must 
be used sparingly. 

Celery Vinegar. — Crush cne-fourthouncecelery seed by pound- 
ing in a mortar ; boil a pint vinegar, and when cold, pour on the 
seed ; let stand two weeks, then strain and bottle for use. A good 
substitute for celery in salads, etc. If wanted strong use double the 
quantity of seed. 

Chilli Vinegar. — Put fift3r chopped or bruised chillies, cayenne 
pepper pods, into a pint best vinegar, let stand a month, then strain 
and bottle. This makes a much stronger vinegar than the cayenne. 

Cider Vinegar. — To make a small quantity put a pound white 
sugar in a gallon cider, shake well together and leave to ferment 
four months, when a strong well-flavored vinegar will result. For 
directions for making vinegar in large quantities, see Kitchen. 

Clover Vinegar. — Put a quart molasses in a crock, and pour 
over it nine quarts boiling rain water ; let stand until milk-warm, put 
in two quarts clover blossom.s, and two cups baker's yeast; let stand 
two weeks, and strain through a towel. Nothing will mold in it. 

Cucurriber Vinegar. — Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, 
and four large onions and put in stone jar with two or three shal- 
lots, a little garlic, two tablespoons salt, three teaspoons pepper, 
and half teaspoon cayenne. Leave for four days then boil up and 
when cold, strain till clear and bottle for use. 

Elder-UowerVinegar. — Gather the buds of elder-flowers, and 
to every half peck add one gallon vinegar, leaving it a fortnight in 
jug to ferment. Then strain through a flannel bag, put into it a 
small bit of dissolved gellatine, and bottle. The flavor of the herbs 
may also be extracted by boiling the herbs or leaves in vinegar, 
without fermentation ; a mixture of tarragon leaves and elder-flow- 
ers is very agreeable. 

Jlorse-radish Vinegar. — Take six tablespoons grated horse- 
radish, one of white sugar, and a quart vinegar ; scald the vinegar 
and pour boiling hot over the horse-radish and sugar. Let stand a 
week, strain and bottle. Or, take three ounces grated horse-radish, 
a drachm cayenne pepper, an ounce of shallots, chopped or minced 
very fine, and pour over them a quart good vinegar ; let stand a 
fortnight, strain and bottle. 



POTATOES. 515 



POTATOES. 



As there is not any other vegetable so much used as the potato, 
especially in winter and early spring, the housekeeper should have 
a variety of recipes from which to select the daily bill of fare ; and 
should also be wise in the art of cooking ''only a potato ;"this little 
saying conveying the abuse to which this vegetable is subjected. 
Potatoes are composed largely of starch, and cooking bursts the 
cells and sets the starch free, and at this stage a boiled or baked 
potato should be served, as it will then be dry and mealj' ; but if 
allowed to cook longer, the starch absorbs the moisture and a 
soggy, flavorless potato results ; another secret of having potatoes 
mealy and palatable is to cook them rapidly, and it is important to 
begin to cook them at the right time and have them as near the same 
size as possible in order to serve when just done. In latter part of 
winter potatoes are so watery that it is much better to steam them, 
and always, when to be mashed or used for made-dishes, peeling 
and steaming is preferable, using ^reat care in the paring, as the 
1)681 jpart oii\vQ potato lies next to the skin and for this reason in 
boiling potatoes, it is better to wash with a little brush, or a swab 
made by wrapping a cloth around a stick, as great care must be 
taken to have them perfectly clean, then cook, peel and serve ; or 
serve in their jackets, which is preferred by many. The only ex- 
ception to thus cooking, is in the late spring, for the skin of an old 
potato contains a narcotic property which gives a disagreeable flavor 
if not peeled before cooking. But however cooked, potatoes must 
be served hot. When intended to be mashed or used in made- 
dishes, if boiled, pare and cook without salt as it greatly impairs 
their flavor; the seasoning being added afterwards. Always pare 



516 POTA.TOES. 



potatoes left from a meal at once., as they pare so much easier when 
warm, causing no waste ; except baked ones, which do not pare till 
cold ; but do not slice for use until wanted. One must exercise care 
in not cooking too many potatoes every day, thus requiring the 
same time in preparing the residue in some edible form, as would 
be consumed in preparing some more desirable dish from fresh 
ones, the cost also of preparing them being more than of the latter, 
owing to the additions required to make them palatable. When 
recipes call for cream, milk slightly thickened, and a little butter 
can be used ; and in cooking with either, a custard kettle avoids all 
danger of scorching. Old potatoes, may be greatly improved by 
being soaked in cold water several hours after peeling, putting in 
immediately as exposure to air darkens, being particular to change 
the water once or twice, and wipe dry with a t w 1 b fore putting on 
to boil. This freshens them and makes them crioper, although some 
claim they really become more tasteless. New ripe potatoes are 
best baked ; full grown, ripe ones may be either boiled or baked ; 
medium-sized smooth ones are best to use, the kind varying with 
the season. When cooking in water, use soft water, filtered, or if 
hard add small pinch soda and have it either cold or boiling, never 
tepid; for fuller directions see Boiled Potatoes. Although some 
prefer a "bone" in potatoes, to be wholesome they should be thorough- 
ly cooked whether baked, boiled, fried or steamed. Never waste cold 
cooked potatoes, as in winter they can be kept till sufiicient for a 
dish of themselves, or at any time may be made in croquettes, hash, 
etc., with meat or other vegetables, or sliced and added to a soup or 
stew. Potatoes being of a farinaceous nature absorb fat, and so 
prove to be a good ingredient in Meat Pies. Potato Flour is dry 
starch powder, procured from the potato and is much used in French 
cookery ; it can be bought in this country, and in fact is often sold 
for arrowroot, to which it is inferior. More so than any other vege- 
table do potatoes differ in quality, according to variety and manner 
of culture. However the main crop may be raised, every farmer's 
wife should secure for late spring use a supply of a choice variety 
cultivated entirely in rotten-wood soil or in soil where wood ashes and 
gypsum are used as fertilizers. As potatoes enter so largely into the 
daily breakfast, dinner and supper of Americans, care should be 
exercised in their seasoning ; not using too much pepper and salt. 
There are many who do not use either, but each must be a law unto 



POTATOES. 517 



himself, only we would advise white pepper, if pepper must be used, 
as it is more mild and looks better. The first new potatoes received 
in the markets in the spring are the B-ermudas., arriving in April. 
About the first of June come the Charlestons ; about the 20th,the Nor- 
^ folks^ and late in June those from New Jersey and Long Island. The 
old potatoes are at this time scarce, poor, and not much used. Always 
drop potatoes in cold water when paring as they darken quickly. 

The sweet potato is of quite a different species from the com- 
mon and is a lighter food, but is sweet, wholesome and more nu- 
tritious. Two varieties are mostly used, the red or purple, and the 
white or yellow and are in season from August till December ; after 
which they begin to loose their flavor, and in the spring become 
spongy, and almost uneatable. Freezing does not injure them for 
though frozen hard as stones, their flavor and firmness are pre- 
served, if baked at once without being thawed. Clean them with a 
brush or dry towel, put them in the heated oven and bake. If thawed, 
even in cold water, they are soft and worthless. This is also true 
of Irish potatoes. 



Baked Potatoes. — Select the largest and as near the same size 
as possible. Wash, brush and place in oven so that they do not 
touch each other, turn as needed and do not let them scorch ; bake 
till tender in a hot oven, testing by taking up between a cloth, and 
if they yield to pressure, they are done. Press each one thus as it 
makes them mealier, and serve at once covered with a napkin, for 
baked potatoes to be in their prime must be served when done, al- 
though if they must be kept, roll in a clean cloth and put in a warm 
place. A large potato will bake in an hour. For Quick-Baked 
Potatoes.^ prepare as above, cook in boiling water fifteen or twenty 
minutes, drain and place in a hot oven till skins are well browned — 
about eight or ten minutes, press and serve as above. Potatoes 
baked in ashes, known best a? Boasted Potatoes are very delicious, 
and are considered the most wholesome and delicate way of pre- 
paring them. Scrape away ashes, put in potatoes, cover with pure 
ashes first, and then hot coals. Or, if With Meat., peel and place 
in pan, around the meat, not touching each other, generall}^ about 
three quarters of an hour before meat is done. See that the pan 
contains plenty of drippings, baste the potatoes often and with 
proper heat they will be brown and crisp without, and white and 
mealy within. Some boil half done, peel, roll in flour, place 
in pan and finish as above. It is better to halve very old 
and large potatoes when baking with meat, and some always 



518 POTATOES. 



let them stand in cold water an hour or so before baking. Or, 
With Sauce, peel and bake in a moderate oven till tender ; make 
the sauce by stirring into a pint boiling milk tablespoon corn- 
starch, beaten smooth in a little cold milk, cook five minutes ; take 
from fire and add a half cup sweet cream, piece of butter and the 
well-beaten whites of two eggs, a little pepper and salt. Serve on 
platter with potatoes in center, or separately in sauce-boat. For 
Larded Potatoes^ peel, and with an apple corer take out a piece 
lengthwise through the center, insert bits of salt pork, ham or 
bacon and bake till tender, in a two-quart baking dish and serve in 
same. The cores can be used in soup or in mashed potatoes. Or 
for Glazed Potatoes^ wash medium-sized potatoes, peel out any de- 
fective places, put in dripping pan in a moderately hot oven and 
bake till tender, brush with melted butter or Pastry Glaze, let re- 
main a moment to brown, then serve. Using the Glaze as given in 
Gravies makes them delicious. 

Boiled Potatoes With Jackets. — Wash, brush (keep a small flat 
brush just for this purpose), cut offends and any bad specks and if 
quite old, let stand in cold water an hour or two. Cook in soft fil- 
tered water if possible, but if hard water is used, put in a small 
pinch of soda. The water should be freshly drawn if used cold, and 
should only be put over fire in time to reach the boiling point be- 
fore the hour for putting in potatoes, as standing and long boiling 
frees the gases and renders the water insipid. As regards the tem- 
perature in which to cook them,have water either cold or boiling never 
lukewarm and the kind of potato will govern that ; those potatoes 
that crack very soon in boiling water, presenting a mealy appear- 
ance on the outside Avhile the heart is uncooked, should be put on 
in cold water, and for those that do not cook very quickly use 
boiling. Do not drown them in water, using only enough to just 
cover and some use even less. Do not let the water stop boiling as 
they will then be watery, but it must not boil too hard as that 
breaks them. Some place napkin under the lid to keep in all the 
steam. As regards salting the water or potatoes, there is a great 
difference of opinion, but the best housekeepers do not use any salt 
till after potatoes are done, or some add it ten minutes before. Test 
with a fork and when tender, not longer, drain off all the water ; if 
left on after they are done they become watery and waxy, sprinkle 
with salt, shake saucepan lightly, leave uncovered a few minutes, 
that all steam may evaporate ; then place on back of range or stove, 
leaving cover only partly on, or better, covering with a clean folded 
towel, as the moisture condenses on the inside of lid when they are 
tightly covered and falls upon potatoes, spoiling them. Potatoes thus 
prepared will keep good, quite awhile ; but are better served at once 
in an open dish with a napkin over them, for the same reason as 
given above, the moisture making them soft and watery. This is 



POTATOES. 519 



the great secret of having nice mealy potatoes. A pretty way is to 
have a Potato Doily made as the Fritter Doily, page 291 ; lay in 
dish, put in potatoes' then bring the ends up over them ; of course 
two ordinary napkins may be used instead. Potatoes can be peeled 
before serving if wished. Always select same size, if possible, that 
they may be done at same time, as too much cooking sj)oils a po- 
tato. If using different sizes, put in largest first, then in a little 
while the rest, and one can plan to use the smaller potatoes for 
mashing or in any of the dishes where small potatoes are used. 
Some claim that after draining off water, taking them to the open 
air and shaking them makes them more mealy. Never place them 
on a hot fire after draining, but on bricks on stove, or on back 
of range. The best potato for boiling is a medium-sized one and 
not too old or sunburnt. Medium-sized potatoes, when young, will 
cook in from twenty to thirty minutes ; when old, it requires double 
the time. When peeled, they boil fifteen minutes quicker. If po- 
tatoes are very watery and they must be used for food, a small lump 
of lime added to the water while boiling will improve them. Dashed 
Potatoes^ are boiled as above, in boiling unsalted water; when 
tender, dash some cold water into pot ; let potatoes remain two 
minutes, and then drain off water ; half remove the pot lid, and 
let the potatoes remain on back of stove till steam is evaporated ; 
peel and serve in an open dish. Another way of boiling is to pare 
a strip about quarter of an inch wide, lengthwise, around each po- 
tato ; place in fresh cold water, not too much, let boil fifteen min- 
utes, then add a quart of cold water ; when the edges of the peelcurl 
up, salt and remoVe potatoes to baking pan ; place in oven with a 
towel over them, and let remain fifteen minutes with oven door open, 
then serve as above. But however boiled, if they cannot be served 
at once, wrap closely in a towel and put in a warm place and they will 
keep quite nicely. For Waterless Potatoes^ select same size,nottoo old 
or sun-burnt, wash, brush, but do not pare or cut ; put in flat-bot- 
tomed saucepan, filling three-fourths full, cover tightly, this is very 
necessary, and place on stove with a moderately hot fire, or in oven. 
Shake saucepan occasionally but do not lift cover before forty min- 
utes. As soon as tender peel, or leave in jackets, and serve. They 
take longer time for cooking but are said to be of delicious flavor. 

Boiled Potatoes Without Jackets.— Vave and put in fresh boil- 
ing water. Keep closely covered and at a steady boil for at least 
twenty minutes, five or ten minutes more may be requisite, accord- 
ing to the quality of potato. Watch carefully, and the very instant 
they present a mealy and broken surface remove from stove, raise 
cover just enough to admit the draining off of water. This may be 
accomplished successfully and quickly, after a little practice, and is 
far better than turning them into a colander, thus suddenly chilling 
them and arresting further development of the starch, which, after 



o20 POTATOES. 




all, is the main point to be accomplished. Drain water off thor- 
oughly and quickly, sprinkle in sufficient salt for seasoning, partly 
cover saucepan, give it a shake and set on back of stove, being care- 
ful not to have it too hot. In a minute or so give it another shake 
to stir up potatoes, throw in a little hot cream or rich milk with a 
lump of butter and a sprinkle of pepper, cover immediately and 
leave on stove for another minute. This last process adds greatly 
in making a mealy potato. They are ready now to be dished whole 
or mashed. It is always best to pare old potatoes. Or for Hoosier 
Potatoes, pare small old potatoes, or cut large ones to size of new ; 
place m cold water, let boil ten minutes, drain, cover with cold 
vv^ater, boil and drain as before ; repeat this once more, then after 
draining, dress with milk, butter, pepper and salt as New Potatoes, 

Boiled New Potatoes. — Boiling water is generally considered best 
for new potatoes, always cooking in two waters as above ; 
some use a wire basket, placing it in a kettle of boiling 
water, then have ready another saucepan of boilin;'. 
water, and when the potatoes are half cooked lift them 
from the first and put them in the second. (This is 
considered equally nice for old potatoes). Serve with Fnmg Basket. 
a dressing of melted butter; taking for each quart potatoes, two 
tablespoons butter, teaspoon salt and saltspoon white pepper; and 
after placing potatoes in hot dish pour it over them. Or for Browned 
Neio Potatoes, when cooked and drained, put in a skillet with hot 
drippings, tablespoon baking molasses, dropping it on the potatoes 
and stirring constantly a moment or two, as it causes them to burn 
easily^ then serving af once. The molasses browns them beautifully 
and makes them delicious. This is a nice way to brown any pota- 
toes. Using Parsley Butter in the melted butter dressing, makes a 
savory dish. 

Broiled Potatoes. — Boil a quart of even-sized potatoes until 
tender, but do not let them grow mealy ; drain off vvater, peel, cut 
in half inch slices, dip in melted butter, and broil on both sides 
over a moderate fire ; serve hot, seasoning with salt and pepper and 
bits of butter. Some dip in sifted bread-crumbs after dipping in 
butter. Or slice cold boiled potatoes lengthwise and broil as above, 
omitting the dipping if wished. The double broiler is nice for 
broiled potatoes when sliced. Or parboil, do not peel, but place 
them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire, when thoroughly 
done serve in their jackets. For Breaded Potatoes, slice as infirst 
two recipes, single-bread (page 267) and fry in butter or drippings, 

French Fried Potatoes. — Wash, peel and slice as thin as an egg- 
shell, always cutting crosswise; when butter is very hot in frying- 
pan, add potatoes and fry as above, shaking them so as to cook 
them equally ; drain on a sheet of kitchen paper placed in dripping 
pan in oven, a few minutes, sprinkle with salt and serve hot. Or, 
cut in fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter and fry in smoking-hot 



POTATOES. 521 



fat. For Fried Grated Potatoes^ grate cold boiled potatoes, mix 
them with a little flour, melted butter, and salt until they form a stiff 
paste Form a roll and slice this, as thick as two pieces of potato 
or frying. Single-bread and fry. 

Mashed Potatoes. — Pare, if large cut in two, and boil till done ; 
drain and mash in kettle i\\\ per fectly smooth ] add cream and milk, 
butter and salt ; beat like cake with a large spoon or fork, the lat- 
ter is preferable, till light and foamy, they cannot be thus beaten 
too much ; dip out lightly into a hot dish and literally coax into a 
delicate mealy heap, instead of packing and smoothing into a 
shapely mass. Allow about a teacup cream or milk and piece of 
butter size of an egg to a dozen medium-sized potatoes. Some have 
the cream hot, thinking it makes them much nicer ; others boil po- 
tatoes in jackets, then peel and prepare as above, using only the 
large fork without the masher, and when ingredients are added, po- 
tatoes very hot. dish lightly and draw the fork backward over the 
potatoes to make a rough surface, browning with a hot salmander, 
if liked. Some rub through a sieve with the potato masher, then 
dress and beat with the fork. But however prepared it is very es- 
sential to beat till very light and serve very hot, and of course 
there must not be any lumps. To keep hot for any length of time, 
place saucepan, or pan in which they were mashed, in pan of hot 
water, and leave on back of stove. When potatoes are dished, those 
who prefer a smooth surface can smooth over top, making several 
holes in it with bowl of spoon, filling with pieces of butter and also 
dotting with a little black pepper ; although if any pepper is used 
in seasoning, especially if mixed through the mashed potato, the 
white is preferable. Mashed potatoes may be made into any form 
of apples, pears, etc., by being molded with the hand; a clove in- 
serted for the eye of the fruit, and a piece of parsley stem for the 
stalk, then placed in oven till hot, or in a pan set in another of hot 
water on stove. For Browned Mashed Potatoes., after mashed as 
above, heap on a small, oval platter, shape like a pyramid and per- 
fectly smooth, then cover with a well-beaten egg and set in the 
oven to brown. Or add one or two well-beaten eggs, mix thorough- 
ly, put in baking dish, dip a knife in sweet milk, smooth over, wet- 
ting every part with milk, and place in a hot oven twenty minutes. 
Y or a. Puree of Potatoes., ^2ive and boil six potatoes, drain them 
well, mash smoothly or beat them up with a fork ; add third of a 
pint stock or broth, and rub potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree 
into a very clean saucepan with two tablespoons butter ; stir well 
over fire until thoroughly hot, and it will then be ready to serve. 
A puree should be rather thinner than mashed potatoes, and is a 
delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled mutton cutlets. 
Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the latter is 
not at hand. 



522 



POTATOES. 




Vegetable Plane. 



Saratoga Potatoes. — Pare and shave the potatoes in very thin 
slices, like wafers, on the vegetable plane; let stand- from fifteen 
minutes to an hour in ice-cold water, some adding salt or a piece of 
alum, size of a pea, to a quart of water, to chill 
and crisp the slices ; drain and dry in napkin. 
Separate the slices and drop in kettle of smoking- 
hot fat, tested as directed in Fritters, as many ' as 
v/ill float on top without touching each other, care 
being taken not to fry too many at once ; some only put in eight or 
ten slices. Keep them separated by means of a fork, turning when 
the edges begin to color ; and before this when slices commence to 
cook one must watch very closely, as although they cook slowly at 
first, they finish very quickly, and after turning will soon be a 
golden brown ; when skim out with a wire spoon and put either in 
a paper-lined colander or dripping-pan, set in oven or back of range ; 
sprinkle with salt, and continue to thus fry and drain till all are 
prepared. Three medium-sized potatoes will be Bufiicient for four 
persons. Serve, either hot or cold, on a platter and they are also 
pretty used as a garnish. They can be kept nice and crisp in a dry 
warm place, and may be prepared quite awhile before serving, if 
necessary. When they are bought, always reheat in oven before 
using. The length of time of standing in water is immaterial, be- 
ing governed by the wants of the cook. Use kitchen, or any brown 
paper for placing in colander or pan. Castle Potatoes are sliced 
lengthwise, half inch thick and fried as above. For a breakfast dish 
Triangle Potatoes are much prized; pare small po- 
tatoes, divide in halves then in three pieces ; place 
ten or twelve triangles in frying basket and im- 
merse in the hot fat eight or ten minutes. Drain 
as above and serve, Very small ones can be fried 
whole. Cold cooked potatoes may be prepared 
in same way and also a^ Castle Potatoes. Some 
fry Saratoga potatoes, a half pint or so at a time, 
in the frying basket ; and ther'^ is also a regular 
Saratoga Potato Kettle. In frying potatoes in 
basket as soon as fat is smoking hot again after 
Saratoga Potato Kettle. putting thcm lu, sct back whcrc potatocs wlll uot 
cook too fast. If the cooking is too rapid they will be brown before 
they are crisp, especially if fried in a quantity in the basket, which 
is a quicker Tvay but potatoes are not bo nice. 

Scalloped Potatoes — Season, add cream to mashed potato 
and lay in scallop shells, smooth the surface with blade of knife, 
and then score them across ; lay thin slices of butter upon 
them, and bake until well browned, serve hot in the shells. Or 
cut one quart cold boiled potatoes in very thin slices, and 
season well with salt and pepper. Butter an earthen bak- 
ing dish, cover bottom with layer of White Sauce, add layer i 




POTATOES. 523 




potatoes, sprinkle with chopped parsley, then another layer of 
sauce, then potatoes, and so on till all are used. Have sauce for 
last layer and cover with fine bread crumbs, put a 
spoonful butter in little bits on top and cook twenty 
minutes. A cup of chopped ham or any kind of meats 
Scallop Shell, niay be used with potatoes. Or cut in rather thick slices 
with some bread in small-sized pieces (without any crust), and 
place bread and potatoes in the dish, alternating the layers. Cover 
with White Sauce in which a bay leaf has been cooked. Strew 
sugar upon the top and slightly brown in oven. Or for Sauced 
Potatoes^ prepare as in second recipe, placing all the potatoes in 
dish, then covering with the sauce and bread crumbs ; or the pota- 
toes may be sliced raw, cooked in a little water till tender, then 
placed in dish and finished as above. Use cream, milk, or water in 
making the sauce as directed on page 121. 

Stewed Potatoes. — Put in saucepan a tablespoon butter, wiien 
melted add a level tablespoon flour, cook a few minutes and add a 
scant pint milk or cream, season with salt and pepper; when it 
boils add a pint sliced, cold, boiled potatoes, cover and cook till po- 
tatoes are thoroughly heated, about ten minutes ; stir once or 
twice, or if cooked in custard kettle will not need it. Some add ta- 
blespoon finely-chopped parsley,and just before serving,place on back 
of stove and when boiling has ceased, stir in yolk of an egg beaten 
with a teaspoon water and for Walnut House Potatoes use soup and 
gravy stock instead of milk, adding with the egg, or two if liked, a 
teaspoon lemon juice and another tablespoon butter. Potatoes may 
be cut in dice or, quarter-inch slices. For Potatoes a la Maitre de 
Hotel., cook as in first recipe, omitting the milk and adding the 
parsley with juice of half a lemon ; stir well in this sauce and serve 
very hot. Some add three or four tablespoons of gravy from 
roast meat, or good gravy stock. 

Stuffed Potatoes. — Wash ten large potatoes with a brush ; bake 
only until tender, not mealy, not more than half an hour; cutoff'one 
end, scoop out inside with teaspoon, rub through a sieve or mash 
thoroughly, put in saucepan containing two table- - ,^"^'5 
spoons butter, three of grated Parmesan cheese, ti;,^^ 
saltspoon white pepper and teaspoon salt, adding ^^ _ 
a little boiling milk, stir all over fire until scalding stus-ed Potatoes. 
liot ; then fill potato shells with mixture, put on ends, press potato 
gently in shape, heat them in the oven, and serve in a napkin placed 
in a hot dish. Or omit cheese, fill shells full, brown in oven 
or with a hot salamander and serve as illustrated. Or take 
rather large cold steamed (pared) potatoes, cut off tops, 
and with a round-topped knife cai'efully remove most of the 
inside, leaving simply a protecting wall; fill with chopped raw 
oysters slightly seasoned with pepper and salt and mixed with an 




524 POTATOES. 



egg, cover with tops, moistening edges with white of eggs to make 
them adhere, and place in warm, not hot oven, for a few minutes, 
then single-bread and fry in hot lard. 

Potato Balls. — Stir into nicely seasoned mashed potatoes, 
beaten yolks of one or two eggs ; make in small balls, single-bread 
and brown in oven ; or fry in frying-pan, or as fritters. A little 
parsley or chopped onion maybe added. Or With Meat, mi:s. with 
one pint mashed potato, a tablespoon butter, two of cream and 
season with salt and white pepper, add beaten yolks of two eggs 
and scant half pint grated cold ham, and lastly the well-frothed 
whites. Make in balls, flouring the hands slightly, roll the former 
^iggg^^g^ ^^ ii^'*"^!^" flour and fry as above. Nice served in 

^' " • ^^^^^^^j/ center of platter surrounded by Brown 
Sauce or any good gravy. Or for Potato a la Parisienne, cut balls 
with a vegetable cutter from either cooked or raw potatoes and fry 
as above. If from the latter, boil in water eight minutes, then fry. 
Season with a little pepper, salt and chopped parsley. 

Potato Biscuit. — To a pint mashed potatoes add one beaten 
egg, when perfectly smooth add sufficient sugar to make quite sweet ; 
add well-frothed whites of four eggs, a pinch salt and adesertspoon 
of orange-flower water, or any flavoring wished, and place in either 
round or oblong biscuits upon a p^per-lined pan as Lady Fingers. 
Bake slowly until nicely browned and remove paper when biscuits 
are cold. For Potato SaMchviches, take mashed potato, add pinch 
salt, a little milk and sufficient flour to make a light dough ; roll 
out rather thin, cvit into squares and toast in folding wire toaster, 
or broil on a gridiron ; place two together with a little butter be- 
tween and serve hot. 

Potato Croquettes. — Pare six potatoes, cut in small pieces, put 
in boiling water and cook till soft ; drain, and put through a colan- 
der, mix three eggs (one at a time) with the potatoes; add two 
tablespoons bread-crumbs and a little salt. Cook, stirring con- 
stantly ; when thoroughly heated take off", let cool, roll into balls 
and fry in hot lard as directed in Fritters and Croquettes. Sweet 
Potatoes prepared in same way. Or cook as above one pint mashed 
potato, gill milk, three tablespoons each butter and sugar, a little 
nutmeg and teaspoon salt. Take off, add two well-beaten yolks, 
stir until very smooth and light, spread about half an inch deep, on 
a buttered dish and set away to cool. When cold, cut in squares, 
single bread, using the whites, and fry as above. Serve immediately. 
Or roast a dozen fine potatoes. When done, scrape out the interior, 
which form into a ball. When cold put into a 
mortar and mix with six tablespoons butter, sea- 
son with a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley and 
Potato Croquettes. shallots aud grated nutmeg. Add beaten yolks 
of four and two whole eggs, form into croquettes the size of a small 






POTATOES. 525 



pear, or in a small roll ; double-egg-bread, page 267, and fry in a ket- 
tle of hot fat or in a little butter or drippings in frying pan. Garn- 
ish with sprigs of fresh green parsley, and serve very hot. Or With 
Gravy, cook them in boiling gravy or milk. When done serve them 
in the sauce. If preferred, a little anchovy, shrimp, parsley, or lob- 
ster butter may be used in place of the herbs, etc. 

Potato Fritters. — Put five tablespoons flour into a bowl, mix 
with it teaspoon salt and half of white pepper, pour tablespoon 
salad oil into center and over this a gill tepid water, beating all 
well together; add well-beaten white of egg, stirring very carefully 
in order not to break the froth. Quarter five boiled potatoes, and 
dip each piece separately in batter. Drop in hot clarified fat, fry 
three minutes, drain, and serve hot. 

Potato Omelet. — Take three or four steamed potatoes, mash, 
season, and add a little cream ; then stir this with the yolks of six 
eggs and the whites of two. Fry till browned on one side, fold and 
serve at once. Or quarter four cold boiled potatoes, cut in thin slices 
or dice, season and add beaten yolks of four eggs, and lastly the well- 
frothed whites and fry as any omelet. 

Potato Pancakes. — To two grated large raw potatoes, add two 
beaten eggs, a tablespoon thick cream, salt and pepper, a little 
spice, and if wished, a little grated lemon peel. Drop a spoonful at 
a time into a sl^illet in which is some melted butter or beef drip- 
pings ; spread out rather thin ; when brown on both sides sprinkle 
a little sugar on them and serve. 

Potato Pie. — ^Make a crust as for chicken or beefsteak pie, line 
a deep pie pan and fill with freshly cooked potatoes mashed and 
seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, butter and cream ; over this 
sprinkle a little summer savory, if liked, or sprinkle with a little 
catsup, chowchow or any fine pickle, cover with crust and bake in 
quick oven until crusts are done ; serve with fried chicken, veal cut- 
lets, or any other meats with which a brown gravy is served. Or 
for a Deep Potato Pie take a small quantity of meat of any kind — 
half pound is sufficient, and bacon, ham, potted fish with hard-boiled 
eggs, odds and ends of beef, or poultry will answer the purpose; cut 
any of these into pieces, lay in bottom of baking dish, season ; pare 
and slice a quart of raw potatoes, place over meat, strew over bits of 
butter, cover with a crust if liked or sprinkle with bread crumbs, or 
omit either, and bake in rather a slow oven. Slice cooked potatoes 
can be used, making an economical and palatable way of serving up 
odd scraps; if any sauce, such as bread, parsley, white, etc., is left, 
it may also be added to the pie, and if wished the meat can be omit- 
ed if sauce is used; or mashed potatoes may be taken, putting in 
layers with chopped pickles over each layer of meat ; or other cook- 
ed vegetables, such as spinach, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., may be 



526 POTATOES. 



used in place of meat. There should be about three times as much 
potato as meat, fish or vegetables. When cooked, fresh fish is used, 
mix a raw egg with it instead of slices of hard-boiled eggs, as above. 

Potato Puffs. — Beat three cups mashed potatoes to a cream 
with quarter cup butter, add three well-beaten yolks, half cup sweet 
cream, or part milk, tablespoon sugar and pinch of salt with the 
well-frothed whites. Bake in spoonfuls on a well-buttered pan in a 
quick oven ; when done, slip a knife under, slide upon a hot platter 
and serve at once, garnished with parsley. 

Potato Slaw. — Slice six or eight cold boiled potatoes into a 
crock, with one large or two or three small onions, season with salt 
and pepper and pour cup vinegar over. Heat two tablespoons drip- 
pings and pour over very hot, stir all well together with a fork, tak- 
ing care not to break potatoes ; let stand four or five hours, stir 
again, put in dish and serve. More onions may be added if liked. 
Make from cold potatoes left at dinner and will be ready for tea. 

Potato Snow. — Boil fine, white, mealy potatoes, drain off, and 
set on back of stove with a cloth over them till they are quite dry 
and fall apart ; then, using a potato masher, rub through a hot col- 
ander or coarse wire sieve upon the hot dish in which to be served, 
taking care not to crush the snow as it falls, never touching it. It 
will drop in long coils, which heap themselves up invitingly, or by 
shaking the colander lightly, every other minute, it will fall oft' in 
short grains and is known as Potato Rice. In either case only rub 
a small quantity through at a time, and do not let the colander 
touch the potato. Some boil in their jackets, and others first mash 
them, then finish as above. Sprinkle with salt, and a very little 
sugar, if wished, and serve very hot. 

Potato Whip. — Take a pint of steamed potatoes and whip them 
very light with a silver fork, adding half cup cream or milk, two 
tablespoons butter, yolks two eggs and seasoning to taste. When 
as light as a feather add the well-frothed whites, and heap lightly, 
without smoothing, in a quart souffle or baking dish, slightly but- 
tered, and brown quickly in oven, or 
use a hot salamander. If wanted ex-^SSSS 
tra nice, use whites of two more eggs. 
Or, With Meat add tablespoon each, 

grated onion and minced parsley with a gill or more of grated, cold 
cooked ham. Pile in dish and sprinkle with sifted bread-crumbs or 
grated cheese, if liked ; brown and serve as above. 

Baked Sweet-potatoes. — Wash and bake in oven in their jack- 
ets one hour, and serve without peeling ; or With Meat, steam or 
boil them, remove skins, place in pan around the meat and baste 
often, browning nicely ; or they may be put around the meat with- 
out first cooking, but are not as nice and will not brown well. If 




POTATOES. 527 



large cut in two lengthwise or even quarter them, and turn as needed. 
Sweet-potatoes are delicious with Roast Pork. For Carolina Sweet- 
potatoes, slice raw potatoes, put in baking dish, sprinkle Math sugar 
and more than cover with water ; cover the dish a-nd bake about two 
hours. The syrup-gravy is much prized. Or for Texas Sioeet-po- 
tatoes, peel, place in pan, pouring a little hot water over them, set 
in oven and bake, twrning them so as to brown evenly ; pour in 
more wate^: as needed ; let the pan be about dry when they are done. 
Serve on hot dish. Or boil or steam till nearly done, peel and cut 
in lengthwise slices ; put a layer of potatoes with bits of butter dot- 
ted over them, and sprinkle well with sugar ; add another layer of 
potatoes, butter, and sugar, until dish is full. Add very little water, 
and bake. For Perfection Sweet-potatoes, slice cold boiled pota- 
toes crosswise, in half-inch slices ; dip in egg then in farina, and 
sprinkle over with sugar. Place in a hot dripping-pan and dot each 
piece with a bit of butter and brown in oven about ten minutes. 
Serve on a hot dish. For Roasted Sweet-potatoes, roast in ashes, as 
Irish potatoes, remove skin and serve. They have a delicious and 
peculiar flavor so cooked. Sweet-potatoes prepared in any way are 
especially nice served with chicken. Always cut oflf ends, when pre- 
paring for baking, the same as Irish potatoes. 

Boiled Sweet-potatoes. — Wash and boil as Irish potatoes, with- 
out any salt ; when tender, peel and place in oven to dry and brown 
delicately, if wished. Serve like Irish potatoes, a dressing of melted 
butter being nice. The best way to cook them is as Steamed Sweet- 
potatoes, finishing as above. For MasTied Potatoes, boil or steam 
and prepare as Irish potatoes. However cooked, they require more 
time than the Irish. 

Browned Sweet-potatoes. — Put in a frying-pan half cup each 
butter and lard, cup sugar, and pint water ; pare potatoes, slice length- 
wise if large, add and keep closely covered, boil until water boils away, 
then brown nicely but do not let burn. After removing potatoes, 
pour in cup cream, let poll and pour over potatoes. Serve hot. Or 
cut cold boiled potatoes in thick slices and season. Have butter or 
drippings in frying-pan and add slices to cover the bottom : brown 
and turn as pancakes. Sliced raw ones may be prepared same, be- 
ing careful not to cook too long as they will become hard. Par- 
snips may be browned as above. 

Fried Sweet-potatoes. — Peel, slice, and drop in smoking-hot 
fat, turning to nicely brown both sides, or fry sliced cooked ones 
same ; or single-bread, some using flour instead of crumbs and fry. 

Glazed Sweet-potatoes. — Boil till tender, peel carefully, and lay 
in buttered dripping-pan, in a good oven ; as they begin to crust 
over, baste with a little butter, repeating this several times as they 
brown ; when glossy and a golden color, dish and serve while hot. 



52S POULTRY. 



POULTRY. 



What can be more tempting to the epicure than a handsomely 
browned and crusted fowl? And although poultry is not considered 
equal to fish as a food for brain-workers, it contains more of the 
muscle-making and heat-producing elements than beef or veal. This 
is especially the case with the thighs and legs of chickens and turk- 
eys, which are far superior to the breast as real food. The latter is 
dry and somewhat tasteless while the former is juicy and of rich 
flavor. While this is true of poultry and the larger game ; with birds 
which live "on the wing" it is just the opposite; their breasts are 
juicy and more nutritious while the meat on the thighs is poor and 
dry. There are many ways of preparing poultry besides the tempt- 
ing roast, which make delicious and dainty dishes ; but the first 
secret of success lies in the care of, killing, picking, singeing, plump^ 
ing, cutting up and dressing of chickens and turkeys. Very full 
and complete directions for which are given, in Cutting and Curing 
Meats in the back part of book. After a fowl is nicely dressed, if to 
be served whole, it can still be made to look more plump by flatten- 
ing the breast bone ; place several thicknesses of cloth over the lat- 
ter and pound it, being careful not to break the skin ; then rub in- 
side well with salt and pepper. Make any stuff'ing or force-meat 
wished and stuff" the breast first, but not too full or it will burst in 
cooking; stuff the body rather fuller than the breast, sew up both 
openings with strong darning cotton, and sew the skin of the neck 
over upon the back or down upon the breast, remembering that 
these threads must be carefully removed before sending to the table. 
Lay the points of the wings Under the haxikt and fasten in that posi- 



POULTRY. 529 

tion with a skewer run through both wings and held in place with 
clean twine ; press the legs as closely towards the breast and side- 
bones as possible, giving an upward and pushing motion, and fasten 
with a skewer run through the body and both thighs, push a short 
skewer through above the tail, and tie ends of legs down, with a 
twine, close to the skewer ; then place the fowl on its breast and take 
the strings which tie the legs and bring them around the skewer in 
the wings; pass them back and forth, across the back, to the skewer 
in tail two or three times and tie very tightly. Trussing thus, a 
handsome shape will be given, and all the strings will be on the back, 
so that the crust with which the breast of a perfectly roasted fowl is 
covered need not be broken. If one has not skewers, proceed as 
above, tying in shape as nicely as possible. It is now ready for 
roasting or boiling. If to be roasted rub over lightly with salt, or 
some do not use any until half done. Never use pepper, on the 
outside until fowl is done ; as the scorching which it undergoes when 
on the surface, entirely changes the flavor. Always use white pep- 
per, if any. A handsome appearance may be gained for the roast 
by larding the breast and where the fowls are rather dry it is a nicer 
way. Proceed as directed on page 459, using a smaller needle than 

^^^^^BB^^^^^ for meats. The heating, for a moment, 
. - ^ of the flesh renders it firmer, enabl- 

==^M*=»-- -'"^^*'^'^^ ^^ jjjg QjjQ ^Q jg^j,^ more easily. The 

NeedilTndlXuT^ lllustration shows a separate needle 

and lardoon and one ready for use. When one can not lard, the 
"barding",as described, is very nice, especially for small game, such 
as quails, etc. Both chickens and turkeys, if roasted, are thought 
to be better steamed, especially if chickens are over a year old, and 
old chickens can be deliciously fried if, after cutting, the pieces are 
first steamed till tender. Stewing and boiling are well approved 
ways of cooking chickens of a questionable age. Always put on in 
boiling water, unless soup is wanted, when use cold ; skim when it 
boils up first, and place where it will only simmer ; which, although 
defined as "gentle boiling" is by competent authorities on cookery, 
considered not hoiling, but just the next step ; a degree of heat hot 
enough to coagulate the albumen, and soften the fibrin, being of the 
temperature of 18u * when tested by a thermometer. When cooked 
in water kept at boiling point, which is much less effective than 
simmering, the flesh becomes tough rather than tender, and there is 
34 . 



530 POULTRY. 

both a waste of fuel and a poorly-served fowl. Putting in boiling 
water at first is very important in order that the surface may be 
quickly sealed, thus retaining all the juices; then simmering as di- 
rected, the fowl, or any meat, will be tender, jucier and finer flav- 
ored in much less time than if water is always kept at boiling point ; 
thus proving a much more economical as well as satisfactory method 
of stewing and boiling. A little vinegar added to the water makes fowls 
more tender, and pinch of sugar adds to flavor ; if very old, some 
sprinkle a spoonful soda oyer, letting stand a day or two, wash- 
ing off and cooking. The same result would be secured without the 
Boda, we think ; as "hanging" for a few days, or even longer, is con- 
sidered the only approved way of preparing poultry by many, 
especially among the English. In roasting as in boiling, have a 
high degree of heat at first, for the same purpose of searing the sur- 
face, then graduate to a moderate heat until done ; to test which in- 
sert a fork between the thigh and body, if the juice is watery and 
not bloody it is done. K not served at once, the fowl may be kept 
hot without drying up, by placing it over a pan of boiling water, set 
on top of stove or range, and inverting a dripping-pan over it. The 
wire rack or trivet placed inside the dripping-pan is quite essential 
in roasting, or patty-pans or mufiin rings may be used. The pan 
for turkey should be three or even four inches deep, and measure at 
the bottom about sixteen by twenty inches, with sides somewhat 
flaring. Some roast without water, thinking the larding or butter 
makes sufficient drippings for basting ; others add a very little hot 
water. When fowls are frozen, they must be entirely thawed in cold 
water, before being cooked. Chickens are seasonable at all times, 
but "spring chickens" should be three or four months old to be a 
wholesome diet, as the flesh is too immature before that time. Tur- 
keys are decidedly a fall and winter delicacy. Poultry whether 
roasted or boiled may be served with a Giblet Gravy made as di- 
rected in Gravies. Some of the garnishes are parsley, fried oysters, 
thin-sliced ham, slices of lemon, fried sausages or force-meat balls. 



Boiled Chicken. — Stuff or not, as wished, and then truss as di- 
rected. Put in kettle in about a pint boiling water, adding more if 
necessary, but if only simmered as directed in preface, more will 
not be needed, imless a quantity of gravy is wished. After skim- 
ming, cover and cook till tender. It will be finer flavored if cooked in as 




POULTRY. 531 

little water as possible. Take out chicken, add butter if needed, 
and a slight thickening of browned flour ; 
this may be poured over the chicken ; or any 
piquant sauce may be thus used, and a. 
sauce-boat of Giblet Gravy made,as directed" _ ^ _ 

in Gravies, adding the water and chopped Bailed cM^^T^'thEice. 
giblets to the kettle. They can be cooked with the chicken, but it 
would necessitate more water in order to have plenty of gravy, 
and the chicken would not be as nice ; if fresh water is added just 
at last, to make gravy, the latter will not be as nicely flavored, as if 
it were the water in which the giblets had been cooked an hour or 
two. The chicken may also be served on a bed of boiled rice, and 
makes a handsome dish. 

Broiled Chicken. — Split down the back and pound flat. Unless 
the chicken is very young, steam before broiling until almost tender, 
or put in a hot oven ten minutes. Boil with a few thin 
slices of salt pork, and serve garnished with the pork, 
slices of lemon and parsley. 

Fried Chicken. — Cut a three pound chicken as directed and 
fry the back, thighs, legs and wings in a little hot fat until half 
done ; then put in the breast in two pieces with tablespoon chopped 
onion, clove of garlic, chopped, and bunch herbs and fry five or ten 
minutes ; add an ordinary slice of raw ham, diced, four or five large 
tomatoes, cut in very small pieces, seasoning well with salt and pep- 
per, and Avhen all are cooked, serve together on platter. Fried 
Whole Chicken is a nice dish when the fowls are young and tender. 
Truss as for roasting, but do not stuff, then fry by immersing in hot 
fat until a nice brown or first single-bread them. The chickens may 
be steamed until tender, then fried as above. Chickens fried after 
any method given may be garnished with fried oysters, hominy or 
rice. 

Jellied Chicken. — Soak an ounce gelatine in cup cold water 
twenty minutes ; squeeze it quite dry and melt it in pint clear stock 
in which a large tablespoon marjoram and half a rind of a lemon 
have been simmered ten minutes. Season to taste with salt and 
pepper and strain. Cover bottom of a mold half an inch thick 
Avith the gravy and when nicely set in jelly, place upon it slices of 
hard-boiled eggs, slices of beet and gherkins cut in fancy shapes. 
Mince together the meat from two boiled chickens and a half pound 
each cooked ham and tongue ; season and press this into compact 
shape and put in centre of mold, leaving an inch of space around 
every side ; fill this space with the jelly which should not be poured 
in until quite cool so that it may harden quickly and preserve the 
shape of the meat. This dish may be made very handsome 
and in cold weather will keep a week. For a more elaborate 
dish, cover bottom of mold with a clear gelatine or aspic 
jelly about an inch in depth ; when it stiffens, put a sprig of 



532 POULTRY. 

parsley in center, spreading the leaves, leaving the stem up and 
hold it thus while pouring in a little more half-thickened jelly; 
when this hardens cut a hard-boiled egg in two lengthwise, and lay 
the halves obliquely across it; cover these withjelly,and when hard 
lay in long, delicate strips of breast of chicken, seasoned with pep- 
per and salt ; cover with jelly to within an inch and a half of top ; 
wlien hard, put a lining of very thin lemon slices around mold, lay 
in more bits of chicken, fill mold with jelly, and place on ice. While 
filling mold, keep the jelly standing in hot water as it must not 
harden, and the mold in a pan of ice, unless it is very cold weather, 
when mold m.ay stand outside a window. Always wet mold with 
water before using. When making chicken salad, if all bits of the 
meat rejected from the salad are put back into quart of chicken 
liquor, thickened with gelatine or corn-starch as above and turned 
into a mold lined with sliced eggs, a very good Plain Jellied Chicken 
will result. Some add to the broth an onion, rSi^]s«;^^•>^| 
stalk celery, tv/elve pepper-corns, piece of mace, ^^^^^^^^^p 
four cloves, white and shell of one egg and salt and ^^^^^^^^^^ 
pepper to taste. Three tablespoons corn-starch '^^^^^^^^^m 
may be used instead of the gelatine. Sliced hard- jemea cMckenwuhEggs. 
hoiled eggs, and thin slices of lemon, if liked, neatly arranged 
arouod bottom and sides of mold or bowl add greatly to the appear- 
ance of the dish. Or put in layers of eggs and chopped chicken 
alternately. Stuffed Eggs in halves are also molded with chicken 
with pleasing effect. Some put in pudding dish and bake, turning 
out when cold. 

Masked Chicken. — Dissolve half ounce gelatine in four table 
spoons cold water ; put a quart stock in saucepan with tablespoon 
vinegar, sprig of parsley, half teaspoon black pepper and half salt- 
spoon salt, and when hot add the dissolved gelatine. Beat whites 
of three eggs, adding four tablespoons cold water, and stir into 
mixture in saucepan Avith fork or egg whip. The monient it boils 
draw to back of range and simmer slowly twenty minutes, then 
strain through clean towel and let stand overnight. Next day cut 
wings and legs from cold boiled fowl,trim neatly,cut two fillets from 
the breast,taking care not to break the grain ofthe meat, and remove 
skin ; melt two tablespoons butter in saucepan, stir in four table- 
spoons flour, add gradually half pint milk and when boiling add a 
gill cream, seasoning of white pepper and salt,and stir while it boils 
two minutes. Take off" fire and add tablespoon of the cold jelly 
prepared as above. Then dip the pieces of chicken into this sauce 
and place on a sieve to drain and cool half an hour. When quite 
cold arrange the pieces of masked chicken neatly in bottom of dish, 
chop the cold jelly coarsely and scatter over them and garnish with 
parsley. Or the hot sauce may be poured over the piecesof 
chicken, set away to cool, and at serving time dish them, with 
the sauce that will adhere, on large slices of cold sweet-pota- 



POULTRY. 533 

toes, fried a golden brown in butter, putting a lump of the jelly on 
each piece of chicken. Garnish with parsley. 

Roast Chicken. — After cleaning, stuff and truss a six pound 
chicken as directed in preface, using for the filling, pint and a half 
dry bread-crumbg, four tablespoons warm milk, half cup butter, 
level tablespoon salt, teaspoon each chopped parsley, white pepper, 
and summer savory, half teaspoon each powdered sage and mar- 
joram and yolk of an egg, mixed well together. Or omit egg and 
milk and use half pint butter melted. Place chicken on its side 
on trivet, in pan in hot oven and baste every ten or fifteen minutes 
with a little water and butter. When half done, season with salt 
and continue to dredge, baste and froth as in Larded Turkey. When 
done, dish and make a Giblet Gravey as directed. Some add a little 
hot water at first, others when half done. Or for a French Roasty 
dredge with salt, rub over thickly with soft butter, then dredge very 
thoroughly with flour ; place on the trivet and in ten minutes add a 
little hot water to pan ; baste and finish as above. Serve when 
nicely browned and frothed, with Giblet Gravy. It is claimed that 
the rich paste of butter and flour keeps in the juices giving a fine 
flavored roast, and that it is really more economical, less butter be- 
ing required then when simply basted with melted butter. Or roast 
and baste as in first recipe, and when tender, season and spread 
over a smooth paste of two tablespoons butter and four of flour and 
serve when nicely browned without more basting. Or for a more 
elaborate dish stuff" and truss, then lard as directed in preface and 
roast as above, basting with the drippings, 
using butter and flour with which to froth 
it nicely at the last. Or bone the chicken 
as directed in Cutting and Curing Meats, 
leaving in the leg and wing bones, and Larded chicken. 

stuff with bread-dressing or any force meat, then sew in shape truss- 
ing the wings and legs close to the back ; lard and roast as above. 
This makes a nice dish to serve, as being boneless, is easily carved 
across in handsome slices. Veal Force-meats is delicious with this. 

Smothered Chicken. — Cut up chicken in seven or nine pieces 
and put in dripping-pan in pint boiling water, sprinkle in salt, 
pepper, flour, and dot with bits of butter; cover closely with an- 
other pan and bake two hours in moderate oven. If the chicken is 
very tender, less time will do : if tough more is necessary. When 
tpuder, take the fowl from the pan and keep hot till ready to serve. 
Make a gravy from what is left in the pan ; if there is much fat, pour 
it off and add enough flour rubbed smooth in a little water to 
thicken. Or split the chicken down the back as for boiling, lay 
inside down in baking-pan, add water and cover as above ; then 
bake forty minutes, when baste freely with butter and a little of the 
gravy or drippings from fowls. In ten minutes baste again with 
gravy from the pan and in five more, with melted butter, dipping it 




534 POULTRY. 



plentifully all over the fowls, which should now begin to brown. 
Season with salt and increase heat, still keeping chickens covered. 
A few minutes before dishing test with a fork. When tender serve 
with Giblet Gravy. Some prepare thus and let cook without bast- 
ing till tender and beginning to brown. Then spread over with a 
paste made of two tablespoons butter and four of flour and baste 
every ten minutes with drippings in pan until a rich brown. Serve 
with a gravy poured over chicken made by adding milk and thick- 
ening to drippings in pan. Or With Oysters, stuff and truss as di- 
rected, fill the breast with chopped oysters, parsley and bread- 
crumbs and stuff the body with oysters alone, put in a clean tin 
pail with closely fitting cover, and set in kettle of cold water. Cook 
slowly for more than an hour after water in outer vessel begins to 
boil. If the fowl is not young, it may require cooking two hours. 
Do not open the tin pail in less than an hour. When chicken is 
tender, take out on hot dish, covering immediately. Turn the gravy 
into a saucepan, thicken with tablespoon corn-starch, and three 
tablespoons cream, chopped parsley, seasoning to taste, and yolks of 
three hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. Boil up once, pour a Httle 
over the chicken, and serve the rest in gravy-boat. 

Steamed Chicken. — Rub chicken on the inside with pepper and 
half teaspoon salt, place in patent steamer or over a kettle that will 
keep it as near the water as posible, cover, and steam an hour and a 
half; when done keep hot while dressing is prepared, then cut them 
up, arrange on platter, and serve with dressing over them. The 
dressing is made as follows : Boil pint gravy from kettle without 
fat, add cayenne pepper and half teaspoon salt ; stir six tablespoons 
flour into quarter pint cream until smooth, and add to gravy. Corn- 
starch may be used instead of flour, and some add nutmeg or celery 
salt. Or stuff, truss, steam and brown as directed. 

Stewed Chicken. — Cut up chickens as for frying, place in boil- 
ing water to cover and stew as directed in preface until tender, add- 
ing more hot water occasionally as needed. When done, add table- 
spoon butter mixed with tablespoon flour, stirring it in a little at a 
time, and season with pepper and salt. Or put the butter in the 
stew and mix the flour smooth in a little water before adding. A 
pinch of sugar is an addition to all stews. For a Creoled Stew, cut 
up a chicken and fry slightly ; then take out pieces of chicken and 
dredge a little flour into the fat they were fried in ; add sufficient 
water to make the gravy and one pound of skinned and cut-up 
tomatoes, with a medium-sized onion also cut up, and a little chopped 
parsley, cayenne, and black pepper ; season to taste with salt, and 
stew until thoroughly incorporated ; put in the chicken with three 
tablespoons butter, and stew two hours longer ; then put in a pint 
of well-washed rice and stew another hour. Serve with the gravy 
poured over. 



POULTRY. 535 

TruMed Chicken. — Bone one chicken, cut off the fillets or white 
meat of two or more and lay them all side by side on the table. Out 
a half pound fat salt pork in thin strips, score gashes in thick parts 
of the chicken and lay in the strips, cut up a large can of truffles 
and arrange the pieces evenly where they will show the black spots 
in the white meat when chicken is sliced. Dredge well with salt and 
white pepper, a little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay the 
chicken breasts in the thin places of the boned fowl, bring the two 
sides together and sew up the fowl into nearly its original shape. 
Roll in a floured cloth, tie and pin it, and boil two hours in salted 
broth. Press it while cooling. Take off cloth, when cold draw out 
threads from fowl and serve either incased in Aspic Jelly, or coated 
with glaze, or slice and arrange nicely on a dish. 

Chicken Cutlets. — Cut off legs of a chicken with all the meat 
that can be obtained by cutting close to the body, and also the 
breast meat attached. This will give four pieces of chicken with a 
bone in each one which must be scraped up like cutlet bones with 
plenty of meat at the end of it, the same as a lamb chop. The leg 
cutlets consist of drumstick and second joint; the others have the 
fillet or breast and the wing bone. Chop off the knob ends. The 
bone of second joint should be loos ned from meat, all meat pushed 
to one side of it, and the bone pushed through a hole made in edge 
of meat — to make it look like a lamb chop — and the ends of bones 
should bo scraped clean for about an inch. When all are prepared, 
parboil bydroppingthe cutlets in boilingwater or broth well season- 
ed, or they lose their shape. When they have boiled five minutes 
lay them flat on dish or pan, put other dish and a heavyweight 
on top and let them get quite cold. After that trim and shape them 
neatly. Single-bread each cutlet, using cracker-dust, and fry in lard 
or butter in frying-pan. Or they may be larded as directed, and 
cooked as above without breading. 

Chicken Fillets. — The fillets are the pieces on each side of the 
breast bone. For cutting see Cutting and Curing Meats. They are 
nice larded with fine strips of fat salt pork, then eingle breaded and 
fried and serve on hot dish with spoonful Tartare Sauce on each. 
These are called Breaded Fillets. Or they may be pounded lightly 
with the potato masher to flatten them, seasoned with pepper and 
salt, dredged well with flour and fried in two tablespoons butter 
about twenty minutes, or until a nice brown on both sides. Make a 
gravy by adding a cup and a half milk to fat in pan, with tablespoon 
flour and seasoning to taste. Serve the Fried Fillets resting against 
a mound of mashed potatoes or green pease with the gravy poured 
round, and all very hot. 

Chicken Fricassee. — Cut up and cook in boiling water, skin 
side down until tender with a small carrot pared and left whole, and 
one dozen small onions, peeled; then take up and keep hot while 




Chiokeo Fricassee. 



536 POULTRY. 

gravy is nicade ; strain out vegetables, and 
let broth boil ; mix tablespoon butter and 
two of flour together over the fire until a 
smooth paste ; then gradually add a pint 
and a half of the broth, stirring the gravy 
with an egg whip until quite smooth ; season to taste with salt and 
pepper, and dish on hot platter; a half can mushrooms greatly im- 
proves the flavor. In serving any of the above ways, arrange pieces 
as nearly as possible to simulate a whole chicken, and garnish with 
tufts of parsley or tender inside heads of lettuce. 

Chicken Patties. — Pick meat from one or two boiled chickens, 
cut into long strips then across into small dice. Put in sauce- 
pan, season with white pepper or cayenne, a grating of nutmeg, the 
juice of half a lemon, salt and tablespoon butter. Pour over it a 
pint white sauce to each pint chicken, gently simmer at back of 
range or on a brick on top of range till time to serve ; then fill heated 
Patty Shells with it. Or add to the diced meat from one chicken a 
cup each cream and the broth it was cooked in, butter size of an egg 
mixed with tablespoon flour and simmer gently until it begins to 
thicken ; add beaten yolks of two eggs, pepper, salt, little grated nut- 
meg and lemon peel, and just before serving the juice of a lemon. 
Fill shells. 

Chicken-pie. — Cook four or five potatoes with the chicken when 
stewing, before it is quite done, with a seasoning of salt; then put 
"alternate layers of chicken and sliced potatoes, in the pan or dish, 
with the bits of dough, and cover with a crust ; make an opening in 
the center and put in the liquor from the chicken. If new potatoes 
are used they do not need to be first cooked. A litle chopped pars- 
ley or celery improves the pie, and always 
add a pinch of sugar. Some put in a pint 
of sweet cream just before the pie is done, 
When Opened, let cook a miuutc and serve. Some line bot- 
tom of dish with crust, put in oven till partially baked, then line 
the sides, fill, cover and bake ; it is always difficult to bake the crust 
on the bottom of dish unless this plan is adopted. A better plan is 
without bottom crust as above. Elaborate molds are 
made for pies, such as the closed mold given ; the 

crust being placed in it after it is buttered, and then ^ 

pressed well into the indendutions ; fill and cover as chicken Pie. 
above. When done, take out the wires fastening the sides together, 
and remove pie to a hot platter, and serve at once. For another 
Panned Pie, chop pieces of roast, or any cold chicken in about half- 
inch dice, add any bits of dressing and moisten with gravy, if any, 
adding hot water as needed ; stew till well heated, season, and place 
in pie pan lined with a plain paste, .^over with a Puff Paste and 
bake. A little Chilli Sauce or any chopped pickle may l^e added. 





POULTRY. 537 

Chicken Pot-pie. — Grease a deep pot with lard, roll out enough 
plain crust to line it, cutting out the bottom ; as the pieces of chick- 
en are put in, strew in ilour, salt and pepper, a few pieces of crust 
rolled thin, and a few parboiled and sliced potatoes ; cover this 
with water, and then with paste with a slit in the middle. Cook 
slowly two hours, adding hot water if necesssry. Veal and Lamb 
may be made in same way. Some leave the lining whole, cut out 
two or three rounds of paste or dough a little smaller than the ket- 
tle and put in with layers of chicken and seasoning at bottom and 
between, adding a half cup water before putting on top crust, and 
bake in moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. Serve turned 
out on dish with sauce-boat of gravy made as for Chicken Pie. An- 
other way of preparing is to cook the chicken in three pints water ; 
first cooking tablespoon butter, a large onion and three slices each 
carrot and turnip, all cut fine, half an hour, stirring . constantly, 
then pulp them through a colander into the kettle with the chicken. 
Stir three tablespoons flour, with two of chicken fat, in pan in 
which vegetables were fried, until brown and add to chicken ; sea- 
son well with pepper and salt and stew gently two hours. Fifteen 
minutes before serving drop in some dumplings and place kettle 
where it will cook rapidly. Dish chicken in center of platter and 
dumplings around, serving gravy in sauce-boat. 

Chicken Pudding. — Soak a cup bread-crumbs in cup boiling 
milk in which pinch of soda has been dissolved, and beat very light ; 
let cool while mincing cold chicken and a slice of boiled ham very 
fine ; mix the meat with the bread-crumbs, season with pepper and 
salt and tablespoon butter, add two well-beaten eggs, beat all up well, 
turn into well-biittered baking dish and bake in brisk oven. When 
it pufiPs up a light, delicate brown send at once to table in dish in 
which it is baked. If flavor is liked, boil half an onion in 
the milk, skimming out before pouring over bread-crumbs. Al- 
ways add a pinch of sugar to above pudding. 

Chicken Willi Asparagus. — Cut two chickens in seven pieces 
each, leaving the breast and breast-bone entire. Cook all but latter 
in four quarts boiling water; when commencing to be tender put in 
the breast and when done, take out and let cool. The meat, except 
the breasts, can be used for Chicken Salad or any dish wished. 
Take the breasts when cold, or when ready to use, cut carefully 
from the bone and trim neatly, cutting in two or more pieces ; make 
hot in a little chicken broth, kept from stewing the chickens, place 
on platter and pour over a Magiccd Sauce made as follows : Add 
to the chicken liquor, a few slices of carrots and parsnips, and a 
stalk of celery and a very little lemon ; when Avell-flavored with the 
vegetables, strain through the crash towel kept for straining soups, 
etc., and place the broth in a saucepan, add two tablespoons each 
flour and butter, stirred together over the fire, but not browned ; let 
this cook slowly till reduced to a quart, then add liquor from a can 
of mushrooms, and again reduce to less than a quart; beat in a 



538 POULTRY. 



tablespoon butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, pinch of sugar and 
cayenne, and cup of boiled cream, a little at a time, just before serv- 
ing, making it of the consistency required, and then pass it through 
a fine strainer. After pouring it over the breasts of chicken, dot it 
here and there with the asparagus heads cooked in a little water till 
tender and then fried a moment or two in a little butter. The great 
beauty of the dish, with sauce looking as glossy as white satin, just 
thin enough to settle down smooth, yet too thick to run off the 
meat, and spotted all over the surface with the green heads and 
bordered with the same, well repays one for the trouble, and it is as 
delicious as it is elegant. 

Cantons De Rouen. — Cut off bone of leg about an inch from 
joint, giving a large sweep of skin. Take bone out of leg without 
breaking the skin ; make a dressing of one half cup bread, soaked, 
squeezed and seasoned with salt, pepper and any herb except sage. 
Stuff leg with this, sew up and trim in shape, as near like little 
ducks as possible. Place in pan upon a bed of vegetables, (slices of 
turnips, carrots, onions, bay leaf, and two or three slices salt pork), 
or baste with a little butter, and bake one half hour. 

Boiled Turhey. — Prepare turkey as directed. Chop very fine six 
stalks nicely-blanched celery and add to the bread dressing. Or 
cut the celery in third of an inch pieces, season with salt and 
a pinch of cayenne and fill turkey with it ; then sew and truss 
as directed. Serve with Celery Sauce, or stir together in saucepan two 
tablespoons each flour and butter, when smooth add a quart of the 
turkey broth, season and add the chopped giblets, having cooked 
them with the turkey, as more w^ater is required with it than with 
chicken. Celery may be added to this sauce, letting cook till ten- 
der, or oysters, when simply boil up once and serve. For a White- 
boiled Foivl, first cover breast with slices of lemon, and put 
over these a sheet of buttered paper, then tie in the floured 
cloth ; place in boiling water and simmer gently as directed, 
remembering that simmering instead of boiling, a chicken or 
turkey, prepared in any of above ways, makes them plumper 
and whiter. Always truss very firmly, as they are more apt to 
lose their shape than in roasting. In serving some prefer to pour 
some of the sauce over the fowl, putting the rest in sauce-boat. 
Besides the sauces mentioned above. Parsley, licmon and 
Mushroom may be used, and Rice Sauce is very nice ; to make, sim- 
mer quarter pound rice in pint milk. Season with onion as for 
Bread Sauce. When tender, strain and boil till thick, and a Rice 
Dressing may also be used for filling, made as follows : boil three 
quarters of a gill of rice in salted water till tender, but grains not 
broken ; mix with a cup cold veal or any cold meat, or slice or two 
of salt pork and three or four onions, all chopped fine ; season with 
salt and pepper and a pinch of cayenne and sugar ; fry slightly in 




POULTRY. 539 

frying-pan with butter size of an egg. This is a nice stuffing for 
tame Roast Ducks. 

Boned Turkey. — Complete directions for Boning will be found 
in Cutting and Curing Meats, which see ; only the different methods 
of cooking the foAvl after it is boned are given here. Always weigh 
the fowl before boning, and allow two-thirds weight for force-meat, 
which is usually made of fresh veal and chicken, chopped fine, or 
veal and pork, or sausage meat. For each pound force-meat take a 
level teaspoon each powdered cloves, powdered allspice and salt, 
saltspoon each pepper and mace, one raw egg and juice of a lemon ; 
mix thoroughly. Place the fowl, skin down on a board, put layer 
of stuffing on it about half an inch thick, on that put two strips salt 
pork, about three inches long and half inch wide, and the liver of 
fowl ; then another layer of stuffing, then the little white pieces cut 
off by the breast-bone, when boning the turkey, and about a half can 
of mushrooms. Now draw the fowl together, sew 
vent and neck first then sew up the back. If 

wished, two or three truffles may be added. After ^^^1^^^ 

fowl is sewed up, roll it in a clean cloth, large Turkey Gauntine. 
enough to have about one-quarter yard to spare at each end ; tie up 
very tightly so as to keep in shape, with three or four strips of 
broad tape, or as illustrated. Weigh after it is tied, and put 
carcass or bones, after drawing and cleaning into as many 
quarts cold water as pounds the fowl weighs, and when at boil- 
ing point, skim as for clear soup. When no more scum rises 
add a carrot, an onion stuck with a dozen cloves, a turnip, a 
bunch of herbs, patsley, bay leaf, blade of mace, and any herb 
except sage, and a few pepper-corns tied well together. Put in 
turkey and boil a half hour to the pound, adding more hot water, 
as needed. When done, take out, letting the broth drain from 
it into the pot ; strain the stock through a folded towel laid in a col- 
ander set in earthen bowl. Some let the turkey remain in broth till 
it is cold. Unroll from cloth, wash cloth in hot water, then in cold, 
using no soap, and wrap chicken up again, tying as at first, and put 
on platter ; turn another platter over it, place a heavy weight on thia 
and press till cold, or overnight if possible. Make an Aspic Jelly 
to serve with the turkey by first removing fat from the broth in 
which it was boiled, and to each quart broth or stock take white and 
shell of one egg and tablespoon cold water ; put in saucepan and 
add the broth or stock with two packages or four ounces gelatine 
(this will harden three pints of stock). Stir until gelatine is dis- 
solved and the stock looks clear, under the egg which should harden 
and float on top. Then strain through a double towel wrung out of 
hot water and placed over a bowl. After being strained half of the 
jelly may be colored with Caramel Coloring and different shades 
given according to quantity of coloring used ; turn into different 
molds to cool and after the turkey has been pressed overnight un- 



540 POULTRY. 



roll, slice and garnish, with the different shades of jelly cut in fancy 
shapes. Or place the whole Turkey Galatine, as it is sometimes 
called, on a platter and pour the jelly when partially cooled over it ; 
when cold serve at table garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. 

Larded Turkey. — For cooking in any way a hen turkey a year 
old is best, weighing eight or ten pounds when dressed. Clean, 
stuff, truss and lard as directed in preface ; place in oven not quite 
as hot as for roasting meats (if the fire is very hot, lay a piece of 
brown paper, well greased over the fowl, to prevent scorching) ; 
put a tablespoon of butter in bits on the breast ; it will melt and run 
into the dripping-pan, and is used to baste the fowl as roasting pro- 
gresses ; baste every ten minutes, watching the turkey as it begins 
to brown, very carefully, and turning it occasionally to expose all 
parts alike to the heat ; it should be moist and tender, not in the 
least scorched, blistered or shriveled, till it is a golden brown all 
over. For the first two-thirds of time required for cooking (the rule 
is twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer) the 
basting should keep the surface moistened so that it will not crisp 
at all; meantime the oven should be kept closed as much as pos- 
sible. A long gauntlet glove is a good thing to protect the hand 
and arm when basting. In turning pan, do it as quickly as possible ; 
season with two teaspoons salt when half done. In the last third 
of the time allowed for cooking, dredge with flour by withdrawing 
the pan partly from the oven (resting the end on the grating which 
falls down, or on a block of wood or a plain stool of the proper 
height kept for the purpose), and cover the breast, upper portion 
and sides thoroughly, using a fine sifter, return pan to oven, and let 
remain until the Hour is well browned, then baste freely with drip- 
pings from pan, and Hour again, repeating flouring and browning, 
allowing crust to grow crisper each time; there will probably be 
time to repeat the j^rocess three or four times before finishing. Take 
care not to wash off flour by basting, always leaving in oven until 
all flour of last dredging is thoroughly browned. If it is necessary 
to turn the turkey in the pan, use a towel, and never stick it with a 
fork, as it allows the juices to escape. In roasting a large turkey, a 
liberal allowance of butter for cooking, including gravy for serving 
in two successive days, is one tea-cup, but less may be used, accord- 
ing to taste or necessity for economy. Baste with melted butter the 
last time, then dredge with flour and serve when browned ; the en- 
tire surface will then be a rich, frothy, brown crust, which breaks 
off in shells in carving, and makes the most savory of morsels. 
Keep hot while making the Giblet Gravy. Always be very careful 
in removing the skewers and strings not to break the crust. 

Boast Turkey. — Prepare as above omitting the larding, placing 
bits of butter or pieces of the fat from the turkey or thin slices of 
fat pork over the breast of turkey, if wished, and baste and finish as 
above. Some have the rule that when little jets of steam burst out 




POULTRY. 541 

from the breast and thick parts the turkey is done. Serve with 

Cranberry Sauce, and in making, if a little 

clear jelly is wanted pour off a cup of the 

clear syrup before stirring up the berries, 

?then mash with a spoon. Sometimes 

from motives of economy, the stewed cran- 

Roast Turkey. berrlcs are mixed with an equal amount of 

gravy from the turkey pan, making a Fruit Gravy ^ which is much 

liked ; prepare in same way when cooking game. 

Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread-crumbs with a little milk, 
butter a pan and put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of chopped 
(not very fine) cold turkey seasoned with salt and pepper, then a 
layer of crumbs,' and some add a little chopped cold potato, and so 
on until pan is full. If any dressing or gravy has been left add it. 
Make a thickening of one or two eggs, half cup milk, and quarter 
cup each, butter and bread-crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; 
cover with a pan, bake half an hour and then let brown ; or instead 
of the milk to moisten make a broth from the bones, skimming 
them out, then thicken a little and pour it over before spreading 
over the top dressing. Scalloped Chicken made as above. 

Stewed Turkey. — Simmer the bones and gristle of the turkey 
with a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion and carrot till a well- 
flavored broth is obtained ; skim out bones, thicken slightly and 
add any cold turkey cut in inch or two inch pieces, and any gravy, 
or season with butter. When heated add cup cold water or milk, 
then a few baking-powder dumplings, pinched off in little balls; 
place where it will cook rapidly and serve as soon as dumplings are 
done. Or omit cold water and dumplings, stir in more thickening 
if needed and when hot pour over croutons of toasted bread placed 
on platter. Or for Turkey Fie, cut pieces in neat slices and heat 
as above, then skim out and place a layer in baking dish, then a 
layer of sliced raw potatoes, or they may be parboiled first, then 
turkey, etc., till dish is almost full ; pour over the broth, cover with 
a crust as in Chicken Pie and bake in oven. Some do not first heat 
the turkey. For Turkey Soup, see Soups. 

lurkey Croquettes. — Mince cold turkey as fine as possible, 
season with pepper, salt, a little nutmeg and a very little minced 
onion. Put a large tablespoon butter and two of flour in saucepan, 
when mixed add gill cream, let boil and stir in the meat. Pour out 
and when cold take a spoonful of the mixture, form in balls or egg- 
shapes and single or double-bread and fry as fritters Some take a 
little stock, if bones have been used for soup and add only a table- 
spoon cream, and onion may be omitted. 



642 PRESERVES. 



PRESERVES. 



Before canning was invented, fruits were dried and pre* 
served, and preserves were the special pride of thrifty housewive£3. 
Canned fruits have largely displaced them in household favor. They 
require great care in making. To get the best results, only a small 
amount of neatly pared fruit should be placed, at one time, in the 
syrup, after it has been carefully prepared and classified. One rea- 
son for this is that it ig difficult to watch a large quantity so as to 
ensure its being done to above. After paring apples, peaches and 
pears, drop them into cold water to prevent them from turning 
dark. The old rnle in preserving was a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit, but since the practice has been to seal in cans, three quart- 
ers of a pound of sugar, or even less, is sufficient. In making pre- 
serves or marmalade, follow all the directions under Canning Fruits 
and Jellies and Jams, as to kettle, sugar and canning. Quinces, 
pears, citrons, water-melons, rinds, cherries and currants, should be 
cooked until tender in water or a weak syrup before putting into a 
syrup of the full sweetness. Otherwise they will become hard. In 
the case of apples, peaches, plums, strawberries, and other fruits 
that are liable to become too soft in cooking, the hot syrup should 
be poured ever them,or they should be sprinkled with sugar and al- 
lowed to stand for a few hours before adding syrup, either process 
hardens the fruit. Preserves may be made from canned fruit, using 
less sugar than the rule. When candied, set jar in kettle of cold 
water, heat, and let boil for an hour. If specks of mold appear, 
take off carefully and scald as above directed. Marmalades, or dif- 
ferent butters, will be smoother and better flavored ; and will require 
lesE boiling, if fruit (peaches, quinces, oranges and apples make 
best) is well cooked and mashed before adding either sugar or cider. 
It is important to stir constantly with an apple-butter stirrer. 
Always tie an oil-cloth cover over the cloth cover on preserves, etc. 



PRESERVES. 543 



Apple Preserves. — To put up with boiled cider, use equal 
quantities of sweet and sour apples, peel, quarter, and core, put in 
preserving kettle, after first turning a plate over on bottom to keep 
from burning : to a peck of apples add a quart boiled-cider, and 
boil steadily and gently an hour, stirring from the sides to prevent 
burning ; then add pint molasses, and continue boiling five hours. 
The heat must be just enough to keep boiling ; boil them until ap- 
ples are red ; when cold put in glass or stone jars, or wooden 
firkins with tight covers. Sometimes one-fourth the quantity of 
apples is added in quinces or quince parings, when Quince Jelly or 
Preserves are being made. 

Blackherry Preserves. — Select large, ripe, but not soft berries ; 
the Lawton is best for this purpose, as its acidity makes a soft jelly 
of the syrup. Allow pound sugar to pound fruit ; put fruit in pre- 
serving kettle, let heat slowly on back of stove until there is so 
much juice that it can boil without burning; boil until perfectly 
tender, ten or fifteen minutes ; then add sugar, mix as gently as 
possible, and do not boil again, but keep very hot until sugar is per- 
fectly dissolved. Then fill cans and seal as directed. With Cur- 
rants^ put blackberries and sugar in kettle in layers, with sugar at 
bottom and top, and next day add half pint currant juice for each 
pound berries, boil twenty minutes, skimming well, and can as di- 
rected. ^Blueberry Preserves made as either recipe ; or some use half 
blueberries and half currants (instead of juice). This proportion is 
also nice, using quarter as much sugar, canned for pies. Currant 
and Cranberry Preserves made as first recipe, some adding a little 
water. 

Citron Preserves. — Peel and cut six pounds of rinds, boil them 
in strong alum water half an hour or until perfectly transparent, 
drain, and put them in a vessel of cold water, cover, and let remain 
overnight. Next morning tie in thin cloth half pound race ginger 
and boil in three pints water until strongly flavored. Break up six 
pounds loaf sugar in preserving kettle, pour ginger water over it, 
and when dissolved, set it over the fire, add juice and grated rinds 
of four lemons, and boil and skim till no scum rises ; put in the 
rinds and boil till clear. Skim out on dishes and set in a dry, cool, 
dark place, uncovered, two or three days, till the watery particles 
exhale ; then put into jars, gently pour in the syrup and seal. Made 
much handsomer by cutting the citron with fancy cutters made for 
the purpose, or use a vegetable cutter. 

Crab-apple Preserves. — Procure the red Siberian Crdo select- 
ing those that are nearly perfect, leaving the stems on, and put in 
preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover. Heat slowly 
to boiling, and simmer until skins break. Drain and skim them ; 
then, with a pen-knife, extract the cores through the blossom ends. 
Weigh and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar and a cup water 
to every pound fruit. Boil water and sugar together until ecum 



544 PRESERVES. 



ceases to rise, skimming well ; put in fruit, cover kettle, and simm.er 
until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- 
mer and spread upon dishes to cool and harden ; add to the syrup 
the juice of one lemon to three pounds fruit, and boil until clear 
and rich. Fill jars three-quarters full of apples, pour syrup in, and 
when cool tie up. Transcendent Crahs are preserved as follows : 
Wipe perfectly sound ripe fruit with a damp cloth, cut off the 
blossom end, but leave on the stems, weigh, and allow an equal 
weight in sugar; put fruit into steamer and cook until tender, 
watching carefully, as they cook very quickly. Make a syrup as 
directed in preface, put in the apples, boil gently until they begin 
to look clear, remove all scum that may rise ; when the apples are 
clear skim them out of the syrup, put into glass jars and continue 
to boil and skim the syrup until it thickens when a little of it is 
cooled on a saucer ; pour over the apples and seal the jars air-tight. 
Some peel, quarter and core fruit and put with it an equal quantity 
of raisins, with half pound of sugar to each pound of the mixeci 
fruit; make a syrup of sugar with a little water, put in the fruit 
and cook until tender. Put up as above. 

Peach Preserves. — Place in earthen dishes alternate layers of 
peaches and sugar and let stand overnight ; then boil over slow fire 
until transparent, pour into large dishes and stand in the sun until 
the syrupis almost a jelly. Put in jars and see that no bubbles of 
air are left in them ; place brandied paper on top and cover. 

Pie-Plant Preserves. — Wash clean, but do not peel ; cut up an 
inch or two in length, put a layer in small jar, then a layer of sugar, 
another layer of pie-plant, then sugar, until the pan or crock is full, 
allowing pound sugar to pound pie-plant ; cover tightly, put in hot 
oven, and as soon as it is heated through it is done. The pie-plant 
will be whole and the syrup rich and a pretty color. Do not put in 
a drop of water. An earthen bean pot with cover is best to use, 
and fruit must then cook half an hour. Put up in glass cans. 

Plum Preserves. — Boil in water to cover (if fruit is sour adding 
a teaspoon soda to each pint water to take off the bitter taste) until 
tender, then rinse them in cold water and stone carefully, keeping as 
nearly whole as possible ; then boil them a few minutes in the thick 
syrup and can. Or select largeripeplums, weigh, slightly prick them 
to prevent from bursting, and simmer very gently in a syrup made of 
quarter pound sugar to each pint water. Put them carefull}'- in pan, 
let syrup cool, pour it over the plums and let stand two days. Make 
another syrup of three-fourths pound sugar for every pound fruit as 
first weighed, with as little water as possible, boiling and skimming 
carefully. Drain plums from first syrup, put them into the fresh 
syrup and simmer very gently until they are clear ; lift them out 
singly into cans or jars, pour the syrup over, and when cold, cover 
as directed. Greengages are also very delicious done in this man- 
ner. To Preserve Plums Dry, gather plums when full grown and 



PRESERVES. 545 



just turning color; prick them, put in sauce-pan cold water, and 
set over fire until water is on point of boiling. Then take them out, 
drain, and boil gently in syrup made with pound sugar to each gill 
water ; if the plums shrink and will not take the sugar, prick them 
as they lie in the pan ; give another boil, skim, and set away, Next 
day add more sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup; 
put all together in wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven 
for two nights ; then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a 
little powdered sugar over, and dry them in a cool oven. 

Water-melon Preserves. — Cook melon rinds in water until 
tender, put sugar and rinds in alternate layers in jar and let stand 
over night ; in the morning drain off syrup, heat and boil the rinds 
in it until tender, then take them out into cans or jars, and boil the 
syrup till thick, adding lemon and ginger flavoring as above if 
liked ; pour the syrup over the rinds and seal or cover. The gin- 
ger-root may then be preserved with the melon. Or pour a strong 
salt brine over melon or citron pieces and let stand two weeks or 
even longer, then soak, changing water two or three times. When 
perfectly fresh, boil in water half an hour, drain, add cold water, 
cook till tender and then preserve in syrup as in first recipe. 

. Apple Batter. — To make a small quantity, boil down about a 
gallon new cider to a quart ; then having pared, cored, and steamed 
apples till tender, rub them through a sieve and thicken the boiled 
cider with the jDulp, A little lemon or orange juice may be added, 
or any fruit juice. The latter is much nicer than to use any spices. 
For Quhice and Apple Batter, pare, core and quarter half as many 
quinces as apples and weigh both, allowing half the weight in sugar. 
Boil quinces in little water until soft, put in apples, when tender 
add sugai and boil slowly several hours. Stir frequently to prevent 
burning. Or quinces may be cored but not pared, cooked as above, 
adding apples and put through colander before adding sugar. It 
will then not require so" long stirring. Quince Butter made same. 

Apple Cheese. — Put an equal weight pared and cored apples 
and stoned plums into preserving kettle. Boil without adding any 
water. When fruit begins to soften add pound sugar to each pound 
pulp. Boil slowly for an hour and pour into shallow molds ; place 
these in a slow oven when the preserve will dry until it resembles a 
fruit cheese. Or take one pound pulped apples, one pound pow- 
dered white sugar, the juice and grated rind of three lemons, and 
four eggs well beaten. Mix these ingredients carefully, and put 
them into a saucepan with quarter pound fresh butter, melted. Stir 
it over a moderate fire for half an hour without ceasing, and put 
into jars, covering when cold. Use as required for tarts, pufis, etc. 
This is a most delicious preserve, and keeps quite a while. 

Peach Butter.— Take pound for pound peaches and sugar; 
cook peaches alone until soft, then put in half the sugar, and stir 
half an hour ; add remainder of sugar, and stir an hour and a half 
.53 



546 PRESERVES 



Season with cloves and cinnamon. Or With Vinegar^ put in six 
quarts peeled, stoned and sliced peaches in preserving kettle with 
three quarts sugar and pint vinegar, heat gradually and simmer 
gently ; carefully stir occasionally until it begins to thicken, and 
then stir almost constantly till consistency of Apple Butter, cook- 
ing three or four hours. Put away as directed, covering first with 
the brandied paper ; or alcohol may be used for wetting the paper. 

Plum Butter. — Stew and pulp wild plums through a sieve, and 
to one gallon of this add three quarts sugar and one desertspoon 
salt ; cook two hours, stirring as directed ; add half pint vinegar, 
two small pieces race ginger, teaspoon each ground cloves, allspice 
celery seed and two of ground cinnamon, with a pinch cayenne ; 
boil up once and can. 

Tomato Butter — Wash ripe tomatoes, cut out any defective 
parts and stew without peeling till very soft ; then pulp through 
sicA^e and to nine pints pulp take four pints sugar, boil pulp one to 
two hours, add sugar and ounce powdered cinnamon, or two if liked 
highly spiced ; let cook till thick as Apple Butter, stirring constantly 
(about an hour longer) and just before it is done add two lemons 
peeled and sliced thin. Fill in glass cans, jelly glasses, or jars, and 
seal or cover. This can be made from canned tomatoes; six 
quart cans making above quantity of pulp. 

Apple Marmalade. — Take nice sound apples, pare, core and 
cut in small pieces and to every pound fruit add pound sugar. Put 
sugar on to boil with enough water to dissolve it, boil together till 
thick, then add the apples and boil till clear, adding juice and 
grated peel one large lemon to four pounds fruit. Some like the 
flavor of essence of ginger. Or take twelve pounds richly flavored 
sweet apples, three pounds brown sugar and juice and grated rind 
three lemons. Boil slowly, mash and stir until a smooth marma- 
lade. 

Fig Marmalade. — Use fine fresh figs, and to every pound fruii 
add three-quarters pound sugar, the yellow rind of an orange or 
lemon pared very thin. Cut up figs, put in kettle with sugar and 
orange, also the juice. Boil until reduced to a thick smooth mass, 
stir from bottom. Put in jars and cover closely. 

Orange Marmalade. — Choose fine Seville oranges, put them 
whole in stewpan with sufficient water to cover, and stew until per- 
fectly tender, changing water two or three times ;^ drain, take off 
rind, remove seeds from pulp, boil another ten minutes,^ then add 
peel cut into strips, and boil marmalade ten minutes again, when it 
is done The juice and grated rind of two lemons to every dozen 
oranges, added with the pulp and peel of the oranges are a great 
improvement. Pour into jars, cool and cover. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 547 



PUDDnsrGS AND SAUCES. 



Puddings have always been favorite desserts, but they require 
materials to be in perfect condition. Suet not perfectly sweet or 
milk turned in the slightest degree, ruins pudding which might 
otherwise be delicious. Puddings are either boiled, baked or 
steamed. Rice, bread, custard and fruit puddings, require a mod- 
erate heat. Batter and corn-starch, a rather quick oven. Add a 
pinch of salt to any pudding, and be careful not to over-sweeten. 
Too much sugar is likely to make pudding heavy. Puddings are 
boiled in a bag and allowed to swell, or in a buttered tin mold or 
bowl with floured cloth tied over it ; do not fill full, and in boiling 
do not let water reach quite to top, keeping it boiling all the time. 
The pudding may be lifted out easily by a strong fork put through 
ends or corners of the cloth. Pudding Bags are either knitted or made 
firm, white drilling, tapering from top to bottom, and rounded off 
on corners ; stitch and fell seams, which should be outside when 
in use, and sew a tape to seam, about three inches from top. As 
a general rule boiled puddings require double the time required for 
baked. Pudding cloths, however coarse, should never be washed 
with soap, but in clean, clear water, dried as quickly as possible, 
and kept dry and out of dust in a drawer or cupboard free from 
smell. Steaming is safer and better than either boiling or baking 
as the pudding is sure to be light and wholesome. Prepare the 
pudding mold, etc., same as for boiling, put on over cold 
water, and do not remove cover while steaming, allowing a third 
more time than is required for boiling. After the water begins 
to boil do not let it stop boiling until the pudding is done, 
adding hailing water from the tea-kettle as needed. Serve 
steamed pudding as soon as done, or place in oven a little while 
to dry it off and brown if wished. Dates are an excellent sub- 




548 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

stitute for sugar in Graham or any other pudding. The flat-bot- 
tomed mold used for baking cakes is especially nice for 
\i baking fruit or solid puddings. For those that contain 
a quantity of milk and eggs, it is better to place the dish 
in oven, in dripping-pan, half full of hot water, as they 
Cake Mold. wlll bake more slowly and without any danger of burn- 
ing. It is called the Water-hath, and one must allow fifteen or 
twenty minutes longer when puddings are thus baked. It is also a nice 
way for any that are apt to stick to the dish, such as Indian, Batter, 
etc. For baked puddings that are to be turned out to serve, sprink- 
ling the bottom and sides of dish or mold, after greasing,with bread- 
crumbs, prevents them from sticking, and many puddings that are 
commonly baked in a crust, such as Cocoa-nut, Potato, Apple, and 
Lemon, are equally as good and more wholesome made by using 
bread-crumbs as above to the usual depth of crust ; pour in pudding, 
strew another layer of bread-crumbs over the top, and 
bake. When puddings are poured into mold to cool, 
always wet the mold before filling. Sweet milk can be 
substituted for sour and vice versa, by using soda with 
ttie sour, and baking powder, or cream tartar and soda TJadu^^M^a. 
with the sweet, and milk can be used instead of cream by using a 
tablespoon or two of butter with it. The souffle dish illustrated on 
page 125 is very nice for puddings which are to be served in dish 
in which they are baked. Or a Knitted Cove?' for the bottom, may 
be made to fit an ordinary pudding dish, of white cotton or macreme 
cord, in any fancy stitch, with cord and balls of same, or any color 
to match table furniture, to tie around top of dish and hold it in 
place. Puddings are often garnished with bits of bright jelly, al- 
monds whole or sliced, or candied fruits, and are served either 
moderately warm or cold, never hot except souffles and such as are 
so mentioned in recipes. 

In making Sauces, do not boil after butter is added. In place 
of wine or brandy, flavor with the juice of the grape, or any other 
fruit juice prepared as directed in Fruits. The Fruit Flavors, given 
in Jellies, are also nice, or use orange and lemon juice, half and 
half, being careful to add lemon juice just before removing from 
fire, as it is apt to grow bitter with long cooking. When using corn- 
starch, stir it with the sugar while dry and no lumps will form. 
The sauce may be served either poured over or around pudding, or 




PUEDINGS AND SAUCKS, 04y 



in sauce-boat, and one can select sauce as wished, although one is 
named with almost each pudding, and serve either hot or cold. 

Fruit Charlotte. — Boil pint and a half milk or cream over a slow 
fire and stir in gradually yolks of six eggs beaten with two table- 
spoons arrowroot, or corn-starch ; cook ten minutes, stirring con- 
stantly that it may be perfectly smooth. Then divide mixture by 
turning half into another saucepan ; to one half add ten tablespoons 
grated chocolate, four of fine granulated sugar, simmer a few min- 
utes, take oft* fire and set away to cool. Blanch a dozen bitter al- 
monds and four ounces shelled sweet almonds and pound in mortar 
with enough rose-water to make a smooth paste, add an ounce finely 
chopped citron, cup powdered sugar, and stir all into the other half 
of cream mixture, simmer a few moments, set aside to cool and add 
vanilla flavoring. Cut a large sponge cake in slices crosswise half 
an inch thick, spread one slice thickly with the chocolate cream, 
putting another slice on top of this and cover with the almond 
cream ; do this alternately, piling them evenly on a china dish till 
all ingredients are used, arranging in form of sponge cake before it 
wag cut. Have ready whites of six eggs whipped to a stiff" froth, 
mix in six tablespoons powdered sugar, and with a spoon heap this 
all oyer tops and sides of cake, then sift powdered sugar over and 
brown lightly in oven ; or cover with Whipped Cream. Delicious. . 

Boiled Apple Dumplings. — Sift together pint flour and heap- 
ing teaspoon baking powder ; make a well in center and pour in gill 
warm milk, tablespoon butter, pinch salt and one egg ; mix together 
and roll out to the thickness of quarter of an inch ; cut out a 
round piece and in centre place an apple pared and cored, put bit 
of butter and sugar in core cavity, bring up dough and pinch all 
well together at top and put into kettle of boiling water slightly 
salted, boil half an hour, taking care that water covers the dump- 
lings. Some tie in a cloth or roll two or three times in dry flour. 
They are also nice steamed and browned in oven. Serve with sugar 
and cream. If boiled in knitted cloths dumplings have a very pret- 
ty appearance. The cloths should be made square, knit in plain 
stitch with very coarse cotton and just large enough to hold one 
dumpling. For Baked Dumplings make a baking-powder crust, 
mixing the dough less stifi^ than for Boiled Dumplings, or using a 
Quaker Paste, place in a shallow buttered pan, without touching 
each other, prick the top with a fork, bake in hot oven, turning 
once or twice, if necessary, to brown evenly, and serve with cream 
and sugar or a Wolverine Sauce made by cooking tart apples sliced, 
until soft, mashing, or rubbing through puree sieve if wished ; 
sweetening and flavoring with vanilla or a little strawberry or rasp- 
berry juice (it is nice to always can some juice to have for flavoring 
sauces). A spoonful or two of whipped cream, or beaten white of 
egg may be added just before serving. Use any fruit in dumplings. 



550 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 




Currant Dumplings. — Chop fine six ounces suet, mix it with a 
pound flour, and add half a pound dried currants, which should be 
nicely washed, cleaned and dried ; mix whole to a soft paste with 
half pint water (if wanted very nice, use milk); divide into seven 
or eight dumplings ; tie them in cloths and boil for an hour and a 
quarter. Or make into round balls and boil without a cloth, drop- 
ping into boiling water, then moving about at first, to prevent stick- 
ing to bottom of pan. Serve with Lemon Sauce. 

Lemon Dumplings. — For half dozen dumplings take quarter 
pound suet, chopped fine, half pound bre^d (about half ordinary 
loaf) grated, juice and grated rind of one lemon, three heaping table- 
spoons sugar, two eggs, beaten slightly, and enough milk to moisten 
all ingredients so as to form little balls or dump- 
lings with the hands ; have ready six pieces 
cloth, one quarter yard square, with tapes to tie ; 

dip cloths in hot water, spread on table, dust 

Lemon Dumpiiags. wlth flour, placc lu & dumpHug, tie, leaving a 
little room for it to swell, when all are ready put in a large pot half 
full of boiling water and boil steadily one hour, keeping on cover. 
Sprinkle sugar over and serve with Cream or Lemon Sauce. For 
Lemon Apple Dumplings, add to above one large greening apple, 
chopped fine ; or a nice dumpling is made by omitting lemon, and 
using cup chopped apple. 

Raspberry Dumplings. — Make a stiff Quaker Paste, pinch off a 
piece and roll into a circle about three inches in diameter, and quar- 
ter of an inch thick ; put in berries, wet edges and press together in 
turn-over-shape, and bake like Apple Dumplings in a moderate oven 
about forty minutes. Some use the Water-bath as described in pre- 
face. Serve with Lactiola Sauce. Any Berry or Cherry Dumplings 
made same way. 

Almond Pudding. — Blanch and pound, with a little rose-water, 
three ounces sweet and four of bitter almonds ; add pint milk, three 
tablespoons sugar, a little ground nutmeg, tablespoon flour mixed 
smoothly in a little cold milk, tablespoon bread-crumbs, two well- 
beaten eggs and whites of two more eggs whisked to a froth ; pour 
mixture into buttered mould, cover, and boil quickly three-quarters 
of an hour ; let it stand a few minutes before turning out of mold. 
Serve with Apricot Sauce. Or for an Almond Souffle, blanch and 
pound six ounces sweet almonds, sprinkling in a little orange juice 
during the process, an4 let come to a boil in a pint and a half milk ; 
stir in two tablespoons corn-starch, first mixed smooth with a little 
cold milk and cook till mixture thickens ; take from fire and when 
slightly cool add three tablespoons each sugar and melted butter, 
beaten yolks of eight eggs, and whipped whites last. Bake in but- 
tered souflBe dish half an hour, sift sugar over top and serve at once. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 651 



Apple Pudding. — As this is a standard dish we give a number 
of the most excellent recipes from which housekeeper can make 
selections according to taste or the material or time at command. 
For Swedish Apple Pudding sprinkle sides of buttered dish with 
bread-crumbs and put a layer in bottom, upon this drop a little melt- 
ed butter and then put a layer of dried apple sauce, or fresh fruit may 
be used, mash and flavor with lemon extract or canned raspberry or 
strawberrry juice, dotting the layer with raisins, then a layer dessicat- 
ed cocoanut, soaked in a little milk, then crumbs and soon till dish 
is full, with crumbs and butter last ; bake half an hour serve with 
Vanilla Sauce made by beating quarter-pint each cream and milk, 
adding a teaspoon corn-starch made smooth in a little milk, half 
gill sugar and flavoring with vanilla ; when almost cold stir in the 
beaten yolk of one egg and pour around the pudding. With Rasp- 
berries, use fresh berries, without cooking, instead of the apple 
sauce, omitting raisins and cocoanut, although latter is very nice 
with berries. Some cover either pudding with a plate, removing just 
before it is done, to brown top nicely. Serve hot or cold. Equal 
amount crumbs and fruit may be used, but it is nicer with twice as 
much fruit as crumbs. Any fresh or dried berries of any kind may 
be used, first cooking the latter. Thin slices of bread, buttered on 
both sides, may be substituted for the crumbs, with uncooked sliced 
apple sprinkled with butter, sugar and cinnamon for the sauce or 
berries ; putting in layer of bread first, with top layer apples, or the 
buttered bread last, when it should be covered with a plate as above. 
Apples may be flavored with grated lemon rind or nutmeg. Bake 
from half to three-quarters of an hour. Serve with sugar and cream, 
or any sauce preferred ; or use only two layers of bread and butter, 
one at bottom and top with apples between. Make Currant Pud- 
ding same, using ripe stewed currants instead of apples, and Blue- 
berry Pudding is delicious made as above, first stewing the fruit or 
not as wished. Any berries may be used same. Serve cold. For 
an Apple Charlotte Pudding, stew pound cored, pared and quartered 
apples with half pint water, cup sugar and a little lemon extract 
till they will mash. Cut biscuits in slices, fry them in butter or lard 
place in fruit dish, spread with the apples, then a layer of jelly or jam, 
then another layer of bread, apples and jam and so on, apples on top. 
Make it an hour or two before eating and put whipped cream on top. 
Minnehaha Pudding is a very dainty dessert. To prepare, peel, core 
and boil apples until Boft enough to pulp through colander ; sweeten 
to taste, add a little powdered cinnamon, put in deep dish, and when 
quite cold, pour a custard made of yolks of three or four eggs and one 
quart of sweet milk, sweetened to taste over it and bake in oven fif- 
teen or twenty minutes. Whip whites ofeggs adding tablespoon sugar 
to each egg and lay it daintily in small pieces on custard or spread 
it on and brown in oven. Equally good hot or cold. Or omit the 



552 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

milk and add yolks of two eggs to a pint mashed and 8\rcetored ap- 
ple sauce ; put in buttered dish, bake and finish as above ; or if 
wished richer, add three tablespoons melted butter, gill of sifted 
bread-crumbs and two more eggs, yolks and whites beaten separ- 
ately, bake and finish with meringue. For Danish Pudding, cook 
two quarts sliced tart apples with half cup water till tender ; stir 
in two tablespoons butter and half cup sugar, mixing and mashing 
thoroughly and some put through colander. Put this as the bot- 
tom layer in dish in which pudding is to be served ; then put in fry- 
ing-pan two and a half teaspoons butter, and when melted add one 
and a half cups dry bread-crumbs, cup sugar, and half pound al- 
monds (weighed in shell) blanched and finely chopped ; stir con- 
stantly about ten minutes or till well mixed ; place this while hot as 
the second layer in the dish ; then in their season take one quart 
blackberries and half cup sugar and cook to a jam, or in winter use 
a jelly glass of jam, or any fruit may be used, and spread this for the 
third layer. All this can be prepared the day before using ; before 
serving cover with a pint of cream well whipped, sweetened to taste, 
and flavor with vanilla. This fills a two-quart dish, is sufiicient 
for twelve or fourteen persons, and is a delicious dessert. The layer 
of fruit may be omitted, putting in alternate layers of the bread- 
crumb mixture and apples with the former on bottom and top, Oi 
some add a flavoring of cinnamon and nutmeg to the stewed apples, 
then make a batter of yolks of six eggs well beaten, cup and a half 
sugar, half pound blanched and grated almonds, and the well-beaten 
whites. Butter the baking dish, put the apples in first, then a layer 
ot jelly or jam, then the batter. Bake about an hour and cool. 
Gerve with Whipped Cream Sauce, 

Batter Pudding. — Put pint and a half milk on to heat, reserv- 
ing enough to mix four tablespoons flour smooth ; when hot, turn 
the milk over the flour gradually stirring to avoid lumps and add 
two tablespoons butter, a little salt and four or five well-beaten eggs, 
or add them one at a time and any flavoring desired, beat all thor- 
oughly turn into buttered dish, or cups and bake from a half to 
three-quarters of an hour. Turn out and serve hot with any sauce 
liked. Or the pudding may be boiled if a cloth is first tied round 
the dish. Excellent served with orange marmalade or other pre- 
serves over the top, passing sugar and cream with it. For Batter 
Balls, drop from a spoon and fry like fritters ; drain, sprinkle with 
sugar and serve at once. Or any fresh or dried fruits preferred may 
be stirred in just before cooking in any of above ways. Or for 
Steamed Batter Pudding, take half cup each sugar, and butter, three 
egis, one cup sweet milk, three teaspoons baking powder, two cups 
flour, steam one hour and serve with sauce. Less eggs and butter 
may be used ; and With Frntit, pour the batter over a pint and a 
half stoned cherries, sliced apples or peaches, or any berries. Some 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 653 

Bread Pudding. — This is oneof the most common of puddings, 
a general favorite, and the recipes given are so varied as to meet the 
requirements of all. For a Plain Pudding^ break up pieces of stale 
bread into bits, and pour on them as much boiling water as will 
soak them well. Let stand till water is cool ; then press out, and 
mash bread with a fork until quite free from lumps. Measure and 
to every quart stir in half teaspoon salt, teaspoon nutmeg, six table- 
spoons sugar and half pound currants ; mix all well together, and 
put it in well-buttered baking dish. Smooth surface with back of 
spoon, and put a tablespoon and a half butter in small bits over top ; 
bake in moderate oven one hour and a half, and serve very hot with 
Maple Sugar Sauce. Boiling milk instead of water very much im- 
proves the pudding. _ For a Layer Pudding., put slices of bread 
buttered and spread with preserves or jelly, in layers in baking dish 
and pour over half the Boiled Custard given on page 167. Or put 
currants with nutmeg seasoning between the layers of buttered bread. 
Some first line the dish or mold with raisins, then fill with bread and, 
butter, and pour the custard over as above, steam half an hour ; or tie 
in a floured cloth over and boil. Serve hot with any sauce liked. Or, 
halve the raisins and place around the mold in rows, diamonds or 
circles ; they will easily adhere if the mold is well buttered ; make 
half as much custard as above, using two eggs, into which stir a pint 
bread-crumbs and half cup chopped raisins, put into prepared mold 
and steam an hour. Turn out and eat with any sauce. For a 
more elaborate Fruit Pudding., soak a pint bread-crumbs in half 
pint milk fifteen minutes, add two tablespoons butter, melted, half 
cup sugar, beaten yolks of four eggs, tablespoon cinnamon, half 
teaspoon cloves, grated rind of one lemon, two ounces sliced citron 
and quarter pound each currants and stoned raisins, with whipped 
whites of eggs beaten in last. Bake in buttered mold or cups, set 
in pan of hot water, when ready to serve turn out, sift powdered sugar 
over and send on with very hot sauce. Sufficient for ten persons. 
Some use quarter pound finely chopped suet instead of butter, and 
three ounces blanched and chopped almonds, or same quantity 
chopped figs. Steam or boil three or four hours. 

Broion Pudding. — Cream quarter cup each butter and brown 
sugar, and three well-beaten eggs, quarter cup sweet milk, half pint 
molasses with half teaspoon soda stirred in, one and one-half cups 
flour, half teaspoon each cinnamon and cloves. Steam an hour. 

Cabinet Pudding. — Take a sheet of sponge cake and half pound 
French candied fruit (apricot, pear, cherries, and lime), and ounce 
citron ; cu\, citron in shape of leaves. Butter tin 
mold thickly with cold butter, press the fruit in 
any pretty designs on bottom and sides of mold, ^^^ 
using lar^e fruits for centers and citron leaves cawnet Pudding. 
around. Cut sponge cake to fit bottom of mold, place over fruit, and 
also line sides with the cake, then put in some more of the fruit (cher- 




654 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

ries), then another layer of cake, then fruit, etc., with last layer of 
cake, pressing cake firmly in mold. Make custard of pint milk, six 
eggs and quarter pound sugar. Put custard in pitcher and pour 
slowly in the mold, letting part of custard entirely absorb before 
adding the rest, and some let stand an hour or so before steaming ; 
place mold in steamer or in saucepan two-thirds full of water and 
steam till firm, about an hour and a half. To test, run a fork or 
small knife down through thickest part, if any liquid appears must 
cook longer. When done, turn out of mold, and eerve with powdered 
sugar. Lady fingers may be used to line the mold, placing them 
around perpendicularly with flat side against the mold. To make a 
plainer pudding, use cup raisins, cup and a half currants and third 
of a cup citron instead of French fruits, and bread may also be used 
instead of cake. Serve with Lemon Sauce. 

Chocolate Pudding. — Beat quarter pound each butter and sugar 
to a cream, add gradually yolks of eight eggs, one at a time, adding 
alternately quarter pound shelled and chopped almonds, not blanch- 
ed, and quarter pound grated chocolate ; when all are well mixed 
add beaten whites of eggs, some ground cloves and cinnamon ; but- 
ter and sprinkle molds with sugar, pour in pudding, steam, and 
when cold serve with Chocolate Sauce. Or With Fruit, line the bot- 
tom of a mold with sponge cake cut in slices about half an inch 
thick, first soaked in lemon and orange juice, half and half, or any 
fruit juice, cover with a layer of fruit using raisins, currants pre- 
served or candied fruits, as liked, then cake, and so on till within 
an inch of top with fruit last. Leave half inch space between cake 
and side of mold. Add slowly a cold Chocolate Custard, using suf- 
ficient custard to fill the mold ; cover, bind and imbed in ice and Bait 
as directed in Ice-cream, for half a day ; take from mold and serve 
surrounded with Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Citron Pudding. — Sift two tablespoons flour and mix with 
beaten yolks of six eggs ; add gradually pint sweet cream, quarter 
pound citron cut in small strips, and two tablespoons sugar ; mix 
thoroughly, pour batter into buttered dish and bake twenty-five 
minutes. Servo with Egg or Queen Sauce. 

Dixie Pudding. — Slice light bread, trim off crusts and cut in 
pieces about two inches square ; remove seeds from greengage 
plums, make very sweet and place on the bread squares. Just be- 
fore serving, place squares in a dessert dish and cover each with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. A very showy 
excellent dish and when sponge cake squares are used in place of 
bread, very elegant and delicious. 

Easter Pudding. — One pint sweet milk, yolks of three eggs, two 
tablespoons corn-starch, three of sugar, and a little salt. Put milk in 
custard kettle, and when boiling add sugar, then starch dissolved in 
a little cold milk, and lastly yolks ; beat,and let cook a few minutes. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 555 

and turn out in broad dish to cool. When it stiffens around the 
edges, transfer it, a few spoonfuls at a y^^^K. 

time, to a bowl, and whip vigorously ^^J-'"'"^^ 

with an egg beater. Flavor with rose- r^^'^''-''^"^'':^\», 

water. It should be like a yellow J^fe^ife^^i^^i^^J 
sponge ; when put into a crown mold. ^^js^^^MljMij^ M^L 
Make day before wanted. When ready ^^SHlMiT^^^^^^K^ 
to serve turn out upon dish, fill centre """^;'"^=^ ■..J r ^^ 

with whipped cream, flavored with va- ""'"""'"^er puddingV'""'' "'^■•"■" 
nilla and heaped up as high as it will stand. Pile more whipped 
cream about the base. Or With Fruit, while the corn-starch mix- 
ture is still hot put a little in a large mold and turn to let it run 
and leave a thin coating all over inside. Ornament by sticking 
candied cherries to this in any regular forms liked, fill loosely with 
fresh or preserved fruits, macaroons and crumbed sponge cake, 
soaked in orange juice, and a little citron cut very thin ; then pour 
in slowly until full remainder of corn-starch, which must have been 
kept warm by standing in hot water so that it would not stiffen. 
Let stand in cold place all night to become very firm and serve with 
Marigold Sauce. 

Fruit Pudding. — Take pure juice if the fruit is fresh or canned ; 
if preserved or jellied, or any fruit shrub, reduce with water to a 
pleasant flavor. SAveeten the fresh juice and the others if needed ; 
to a pint of this when boiling add two rounded tablespoons corn- 
starch, mixed smoothly in a little cold water. Boil a minute or two, 
stirring all the time, and pour in dish to cool, making a jelly, not 
quite so firm as blanc-mange. When cold cover with whipped cream ; 
some first stick the top thickly with lengthwise slices of blanched 
almonds and the whipped cream may be omitted, serving with 
sweetened cream. This is a delicious desert very easily made, and 
so little juice is necessary. It can be cooled in any dish, then 
placed in a glass or china fruit dish to serve. Rice flour may be 
used instead of corn-starch, and some first boil a little stick cinna- 
mon and lemon peel in the juice. For a Steamed Cherry Pudding 
make a good baking powder paste, roll out and line bottom of bak- 
ing dish ; then put in a layer of fresh stoned cherries, or of the 
stewed dried fruit, cover with another layer of paste, then cherries 
and paste on top. Steam two hours and serve with Dip or Hard 
Sauce. Any fruit may be used. A Dried Peach Pudding is made 
as follows : Chop pint dried peaches and three-fourths pint beef 
suet and mix with three-fourths pound flour and teaspoon salt ; 
add water to make dough that can be easily stirred with a spoon, 
tie in a cloth leaving room to swell and steam or boil three or four 
hours. Serve with Jelly Sauce. 



656 PUDDING AND SAUCES. 

Oraham Pudding. — Mix together half cup molasses, quarter 
cup butter, one well-beaten egg, half cup milk, half teaspoon soda, 
two cups Graham flour, one cup raisins and spices to taste. Steam 
three hours. A half cup dried currants or sliced citron may be 
added, with half cup more milk, using either sweet or sour, and 
part cream makes it much nicer, flour the fruit and add last. Or 
use gill sugar instead of molasses, melting it up in a little boiling 
water if wished, and sweet cream or milk with baking powder. 
Serve with Foaming Sauce. 

Indian Pudding. — Scald quart sweet milk and stir into it five 
rounded tablespoons corn meal, cup brown sugar or five tablespoons 
molasses, teaspoon ginger, and a little salt ; bake in moderate oven 
and in half an hour stir in cup cold rich milk; bake two hours. 
Much improved by adding cup raisins with the cold milk. Serve 
with cream or Plain Sauce. Or when mush is left over take one 
quart cold mush, add three heaping tablespoons sugar, cinnamon 
and nutmeg to taste, three well-beaten eggs, pint rich sweet milk ; 
mix all well together and bake slowly one hour in well-buttered 
pudding dish. Eat with sweetcream or Lemon Sauce. For an In- 
dian Fruit Pudding make a mush in custard kettle of three cups 
milk or water and cup yellow corn meal, cooking an hour or two ; 
Or three cups cold mush will do. Add cup finelj^-chopped euet, 
half cup baking molasses, two well beaten eggs, a little salt, half 
teaspoon ginger, cinnamon or grated lemon rind, and a cup each 
seedless raisins, and currants dredged with flour. Bake in but- 
tered dish or mold one hour, covered with buttered paper. Makes 
a quart pudding. For a Plain Boiled Puddifig, scald pint and a 
half corn meal with half pint boiling water ; add four tablespoons 
Graham flour, pint milk, (either sweet or sour), two tablespoons 
molasses, half a teaspoon ginger, a little salt and one level teaspoon 
soda (or a little more if sour milk is used) ; two tablespoons chopped 
suet will make it more light and tender, but may be omited. Put 
in buttered dish and steam three or four hours ; or boil in floured 
cloth, leaving room to swell. 

Lemon Pudding. — Mix half pound chopped suet with three, 
quarters pound bread crumbs, two cups sugar, quarter pound flour- 
and strained juice and grated rind of two small lemons ; when well 
mixed stir in two well-beaten eggs and milk to make a thick batter. 
Put in well-buttered mold and boil three and a half hours. Turn 
out, strew sugar over and serve hot with Jelly Sauce. 

Orange Pudding. — Boil four oranges and chop fine, taking out 
seeds, and put in saucepan with six tablespoons butter, twelve 
blanched and chopped almonds, half pound sugar and juice of a 
lemon ; heat until the butter is thoroughly melted, then cool and 
add eight well-beaten eggs ; put in buttered pudding dish with bor- 
der of puff paste and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour; 
serve with Golden Sauce. 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES 557 



^■" Paris Pudding. — Take one pound flour and with a quarter of it 
make a sponge with a half ounce compressed yeast and a little 
warm water, and set to rise ; make a hole in rest of flour, add ten 
tablespoons butter, three eggs, dessertspoon sugar and a little salt, 
unless the butter salts it enough. Beat all together well, then add 
five more eggs, one at a time, beating each in well. When the 
paste leaves the bowl it is beaten enough, but not before ; then add 
sponge and a large half ounce each currants and chopped citron 
and an ounce and a half sultana raisins, seedless. Put in large, 
deep upright mold, such as charlotte-russe mold, let rise to twice its 
size and bake in moderate oven. This will keep fresh several days, 
and if it gets stale makes delicious fritters soaked in fruit juice and 
dipped in fritter batter. To make the small round cakes, bake in 
small-sized, round charlotte-russe mold, filled only half full, as they 
rise very much ; bake these in hot oven, try as any other cake, then 
prepare a syrup as follows ; Boil half pound sugar in pint water, 
add to this a third of a pint orange and lemon juice, half and half, 
half pint apricot or peach pulp and boil all together a few moments ; 
pour this half an inch deep in a dish, and stand the cake or cakes 
in it, it should take up all the syrup, some may also be sprinkled over 
it. 

Pie-plant Pudding. — Peel, wash and slice four dozen stalks, cut 
in pieces an inch long, and stew until soft with sugar to sweeten. 
Mash through sieve, add rind of one fresh lemon, grated ; little nut- 
meg, two tablespoons butter, yolks of six eggs and whites of two, 
mix all together, line dish with puff" paste, fill with the mixture and 
bake half an hour and serve with Cold Cream Sauce. Or prepare 
pie-plant as above and add a pint of rich cream ; dissolve half an 
ource of gelatine in a little milk, stir it through the pie-plant 
and pour into a wet mold. Set in ice several hours before it is 
wanted and serve with cream. The pie-plant and gelatine must be 
mixed while hot. Or cut up pie-plant 
as above, then make as Brown Betty, 
allowing pound sugar to each pound 
pie-plant. 

English Plum Pudding. — When mak- 
ing this popular dessert it is well to pre- 
pare the fruit the night before, as so 
much time is required for cooking. It 
should be made at least two or three' 

days before wanted, and is all the better 

for being kept a month or two, put away piuiTpuddmg. 

aa directed for Fruit Cake, page 57. When to be served it has 
only to be thoroughly reheated by steaming — do not boil again, as 
the fruit absorbs the moisture and the whole becomes insipid. 
For preparing the fruit see directions on page 58. All the dry in- 




558 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 

gredients should be well mixed together, then moistened with the 
egg, which musi he well beaten, and other ingredients added. Some 
still adhere to the old way of shaping the dough into a round ball 
and boiling in a floured cloth, as directed in preface ; others boil in 
a buttered mold or bowl with a floured cloth tied over, but the bet- 
ter way is to steam in buttered mold or pan. Boil or steam from 
three to six hours, according to richness and size of pudding. It 
is a good plan to divide the pudding mixture in half and cook at 
the same time, using one half and putting the other half away for 
future use. When steaming do not remove cover, and when neces- 
sary to add more water follow directions in preface. When done 
place in oven for a few moments ; then put away as directed, re- 
steaming when wanted. To serve, turn out on platter and garnish 
with holly leaves and berries as illustrated, sending on with it an}'' 
sauce liked. An English way of serving is to break pieces of the 
pudding into inch bits — do not cut it — before reheating and turn 
the sauce over before sending to table, serving in individual saucers. 
This makes it much more delicious, but spoils the appearance of 
the dish. To serve a pudding from which a part has been cut, di- 
vide it in two pieces, four inches long and an inch wide, place in 
buttered mold, pour a boiled custard over, steam an hour or two, 
turn out on platter and send to table with a Boiled Custard round 
it. Several of the best recipes for making the pudding follow : 
One pound each butter, suet and brown sugar, two and one-half 
pounds flour, two pounds each raisins and currants, quarter pound 
citron, twelve eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one pint 
milk, one cup brandy, or half cup each orange and lemon juice, or 
use any fruit juice; half ounce each cloves and mace, two nutmegs 
grated. Mix as directed above. One-half of this recipe makes a 
large pudding and should be steamed three hours ; if whole recipe 
is used steam six hours. Dried cherries used instead of currants 
make a much more delicious pudding and pound blanched and 
chopped almonds may be added. Serve with Cream Sauce. Or 
take one and a half pound muscatel raisins, one and one-fourth 
pound currants, pound sultana raisins, two pounds best coffee 
sugar, two quarts bread crumbs, sixteen eggs, two pounds finely 
chopped suet, six ounces mixed candied peel, rind of two lemons, 
an ounce each grated nutmeg and powdered cinnamon, half dozen 
pounded bitter almonds, and gill fruit juice. Half bread crumbs 
and half flour may be used, and some add teaspoon ginger Pre- 
pare and mix ingredients as directed above, and boil or steam from 
six to eight hours. For a small family boil in two or three molds. 
A few sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, ornament the 
pudding prettily. 

Puff Fudding — Cream third of a pint butter, gradually dredge 
in two-thirds pint flour, scant half pint sugar,' and keep stirring 
and beating without ceasing until perfectly smooth. Then add 



PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 559 

well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and lemon or vanilla flavoring ; 
butter small cups, half fill them, having just stirred gently in the 
well-frothed whites, and bake in brisk oven for about half an hour. 
Turn out on a hot plate and serve with Custard, Jelly or Lemon 
Sauce. A pretty little dish may be made of these puddings when 
cold by cutting out a portion of the inside with the point of a knife, 
and putting into the cavity a little whipped cream or delicate pre- 
serve, such as apricot, green gage, or very bright marmalade. The 
paste requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is beaten the 
better the pudding will be. Six eggs may be used and the puffs 
may be steamed. 

Rice Pudding. — Boil half cup rice in salted water ten minutes, 
then drain and put in custard kettle with pint milk, tablespoon but- 
ter and cup sugar ; boil half an hour, or till rice is very soft, then 
beat to a smooth paste with wooden spoon, add well-beaten yolks 
of five eggs and zest and half the juice from a lemon. If the paste 
is too firm add a little cream. When cold stir in the well-frothed 
whites of eggs and put mixture in pudding dish, Paper Cases or 
Patty Shells, sprinkle with sugar and bake about ten minutes. 
Serve with Snow Sauce as soon as taken from oven or it will fall. 

Sago Pudding. — Soak cup sago in pint water on back of stove 
and after an hour place where it will simmer another hour ; stew 
cup raisins and quarter cup thinly-sliced citron in a little water an 
hour and a half and just before serving mix with the sago, adding 
grated rind and juice of a lemon, and juice of an orange, if wished. 
Serve with Sago Sauce. 

Snow Pudding. — Whip whites of six eggs and one-half pound 
pulverized sugar to a stiff froth ; put in saucepan three pints cream 
and three-fourths cup sugar and set on stove till it comes to a boil, 
then draw to back of stove, flavor with teaspoon vanilla, and with 
two spoons shape the meringues into balls, and drop into the boil- 
ing cream ; let brown slightly on both sides, then put on a sieve to 
drain. Put in a pudding mold some fruit jelly — apple or any light 
colored jelly — about an inch deep, and set mold in pan of chopped 
ice. Add beaten yolks of eight eggs to the hot cream, and stir 
well while cooking ; when done put on ice till cold ; then put on 
the jelly in the mold, a layer of the snowballs, cover with the cream, 
then another layer of the balls and so on till mold is full. Set on 
ice till very cold and serve, turned out on a platter surrounded with 
Whipped Cream Sauce. 

Suet Padding. — Take one pound each raisins and currants, 
suet and bread-crumbs, one-half pound sugar, eight eggs, one 
tablespoon flour, one-fourth pound mixed candied peel, one 
table-spoon each orange and lemon juice, ten drops essence of 
lemon and almonds, half a nutmeg and two blades of mace. 



560 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



and six cloves. Stone and chop the raisins, chop the suet fine, and 
rub the bread until all lumps are well broken ; pound the spice to 
powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all well 
together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth and as 
they are beaten, drop into them the essence of lemon and almonds ; 
stir these to the dry ingredients, mix well and add orange and lemon 
juice. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth and boil six or eight hours. 
Serve with Custard or Currant Sauce. This will keep some time : 
when wanted, steam one hour and serve. Veal suet makes a more 
delicate pudding than beef. 

Sioiss Pudding. — Sift together two cups flour, heaping tea- 
spoon baking powder and small teaspoon salt ; then cream cup 
granulated sugar and two tablespoons cold butter ; mix all together, 
make a wall in the mixture and add one egg, teaspoon lemon extract, 
and just enough sweet milk to make a soft batter like cake. Pour 
at once into mold prepared by rubbing with cold butter, dusting 
with flour, shaking and then turning out unnecessary flour. Boil 
or steam three-quarters of an hour, or till a broom splint can be run 
in it. Serve hot with Cream Sauce. 

Tapioca Pudding. — This popular and beautiful dessert is pre- 
pared in a variety of ways. For an Eggless Tapioca soak cup tapioca 
in cup cold water overnight. In the morning add three cups cold 
water and cook very slowly until transparent. Slice half lemon 
very thin boil in very little water till tender and add all to the 
tapioca with sugar to taste and slight pinch of salt. Put in long 
buttered tin, make a meringue of whipped whites three eggs and 
three tablespoons powdered sugar and spread over top, browning 
with salamander or in oven. Serve cold, cut in squares with sweet- 
ened cream. Or cool in a buttered mold or cups and serve with 
whipped cream. The lemon gives a fine flavor, and the thin slices in 
transparent pudding have a pleasing effect. 

Roily Poly. — Make a nice crust as for rich baking-powder or 
soda biscuit, roll out in a long sheet half an inch thick and spread 
to within an inch and a half of the edge with any kind of fresh, pre- 
served, or dried and stewed fruit, or jelly, jam or marmalade ; fold 
the edges over the fruit and roll it up, prick 
deeply with fork, place on buttered plate 
and steam from one hour and a half to two 

hours ; or boil in a floured cloth, basting 

up the sides and tying the ends. Some RoiiyPoiy. 

do not turn edges in till after rolling, then tuck them in well. Serve 
cut in slices with Dip or Hard sauce. For Apple, Orange and Peach 
Polly-Poly the fruit should be sliced, and for Cherry, stoned ; 
sprinkle the fruit well with sugar, and some add bits of butter be- 
fore rolling up, with a little grated peel over the oranges, and cin- 
namon or nutmeg over the apple. Some use Plain or Suet Paste 




PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 561 

or raised biscuit dough, rolling a quarter inch thick. This dessert 
may be varied by making into several small rolls, or shaping into 
balls with a spoonful fruit in center of each. Some sprinkle in a 
few currants with the apples and use raisins with jelly, jam, apple 
butter or marmalade. For Fig Roly-Poly spread with figs cut in 
small pieces and for Lemon cook the pulp of three lemons with cup 
and a half sugar twenty minutes, then spread the dough and roll as 
above. Or some simply mix the juice with teaspoon each flour and 
sugar for each lemon and spread over the paste, or use the Lemon 
Butter. Chopped pie-plant, thickly sprinkled with sugar is nice 
used as above. A Dixie Roly- -Poly ia made in two or three rolls, 
using any of above mixture for spreading, and placed in pan four 
or five inches deep with cup sugar, half cup butter and hot water 
enough to cover. Bake half an hour. 



Sauces. 



Apricot Sauce. — Put one cup cream or milk in custard kettle ; 
when hot add tablespoon corn-starch, mixed smoothly with a little 
cold milk and cook fifteen minutes. Boil cup sugar and ten table- 
spoons water half an hour; to this add half cup apricot pulp (can- 
ned or fresh fruit rubbed through a seive), beat well and mix with 
the boiled milk. Place inner kettle in a pan of cold water and beat 
for ten minutes, let cool. Peach, Straivherry, Raspberry, and any 
fruit may be prepared as above. 

Caramel Sauce. — Make a caramal as on page 370 of table- 
spoon sugar, watch carefully until it assumes a delicate brown 
color ; put into another saucepan three-quarters cup sugar, half the 
rind of a lemon cut thin, one inch stick cinnamon and three-quar- 
ters pint cold water ; bring these to a boil gradually ; simmer for ten 
minutes add two tablespoons each lemon and orange juice, strain 
the liquid quickly into the caramel, mix thoroughly and serve. 

Currant Sauce. — Put in stewpan two tablespoons each butter 
and flour, and stir till a light brown add a little water and a glass 
of currant or any fruit juice, or a spoonful of jelly beaten in a glass 
of water. For a Dried Currant Sauce, pick and wash three table- 
spoons nice currants, add quarter teaspoon ginger, the juice of half 
a lemon, and seven or eight lumps sugar, rubbed on the lemon rind. 
Simmer all these ingredients together till currants are soft. Serve 
without straining. Any dried berries may be prepared same. 

Custard Sauce. — Four yolks of eggs, four tablespoons powdered 
sugar, grated rind of a lemon, four tablespoons any fruit juice or 
half and half lemon and orange juice and a little salt. Beat quick- 
ly over a slow fire, until it assumes a light frothy custard. 
36 



562 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 



Egg Sauce. — Heat a pint milk to boiling and stir in tablespoon 
butter and four of sugar ; take from fire and stir in yolks of four 
eggs beaten with two tablespoons cold milk, then add whipped 
whites of eggs, flavor vanilla and serve immediately. 

Foaming Sauce. — Beat half cup each butter and sugar to a frothy 
cream ; set dish in pan hot water, add tablespoon hot water, or 
more, if preferred ; flavor with vanilla, and stir one way till it be- 
comes a very light foam. 

Golden Sauce. — Cream two tablespoon of butter and four of 
sugar ; add yolk of egg and stir all into half pint boiling water. Let- 
ting cook a few moments in a pan of hot water, then add beaten 
white slowly and serve. Flavor as preferred. 

Lactiola Sauce. — Scald a half pint milk, add sugar to taste and 
teaspoon flour or corn-starch mixed smooth with a little cold milk ; 
boil two or three minutes, stirring constantly, remove from fire, and 
add beaten yolks of two eggs and any flavoring liked. Or scald six 
tablespoons milk and pour over the well-beaten yolk of one egg, 
mixed with two tablespoons sugar ; then pour this over the whip- 
ped whites beaten with two more tablespoons sugar. Flavor with 
nutmeg and serve either cold or hot. 

Marigold Sauce. — Four tablespoons butter seven of best pow- 
ered sugar, half cup fruit juice, cup cream, half a nutmeg, yolk of 
six eggs ; scald cream in custard kettle, beat butter, sugar and eggs 
together ; add nutmeg, pour hot cream over all, add juice and 
serve. 

Orange Sauce. — Beat whites of five eggs to stifl" froth, add coffee 
cup powered sugar, juice of two oranges and grated rind of one. 
Make Lemon Sauce same way. Or make in proportion of two eggs 
to one lemon and half cup sugar. 

Queen Sauce. — Boil pint water and scant three gills sugar half 
an hour ; when cold, add gill orange and one-third lemon juice. Or 
if wished hot add the juice just before taking from stove. 

Sago Sauce. — Wash tablespoon sago in two or three waters and 
then put in saucepan, with third of a pint water and peel, of a 
lemon ; simmer gently ten minutes, take out lemon peel, add strain- 
ed juice of one lemon and two oranges with sugar to taste, and if 
liked a little cinnamon, give one boil and serve. This is a delicious 
sauce for boiled puddings. 

Saratoga Sauce. — Boil half cup each cream and milk, stir^ in 
heaping teaspoon corn-starch mixed smooth in a little cold milk, 
and add two tablespoons butter beaten to a cream with five of sugar 
Serve at once. 



SALADS. 563 



SALADS. 



Salads, when properly prepared, are very appetizing and whole- 
some, especially in the spring when the system needs the refresh- 
ing and tonic elements of the green salad plants. They may also 
be made very attractive additions to the table, and as will be seen 
by reference to the recipes which follow are very easily prepared, re- 
quiring very little thought or labor and many from the most simple 
ingredients, while some are quite inexpensive, utilizing odds and ends 
that frequently go to waste. The variety of salad materials is almost 
innumerable and may be divided into six classes ; salad plants, un- 
cooked and cooked vegetables, meats, fish, and fruits. For a list of the 
first, see Marketing. The excellence of a salad depends upon the fresh- 
ness of its materials, and the preservation of an equal flavor in the use 
of condiments ; the best salad is one in which no one flavor pre- 
dominates and the ingredients composing the salad must harmon- 
ize with the dressing. The importance of using none but the purest 
condiments must not be overlooked, for a perfect salad cannot be made 
with inferior ingredients. All vegetables must be carefully cleaned 
and if to be used uncooked, thoroughly cooled before dressing. Let- 
tuce should be carefully washed, as soon after picked as possible, in 
plenty of cold, salted water, rejecting all imperfect leaves, being 
careful not to bruise stems or leaves as it causes them to wilt, and 
left in clean, cold, salted water until fresh and crisp ; then wrapped 
in a clean wet cloth, and kept in a cool, dark place ; to lay it next 
ice in a refrigerator is an excellent way to keep it fresh and crisp. 
The salad in which lettuce is used should not be dressed until just 



564 SALADS. 

before serving, because the lettuce wilts so soon after the dressing 
is applied ; the nicest small leaves should be reserved for decorat- 
ing, the larger ones should be laid around the sides and in bottom 
of salad bowl, and the rest torn apart with the fingers. 

Celery should also be carefully washed in plenty of cold, salted 
water, trimmed into lengths, wrapped in a wet cloth, and kept in cold 
place until wanted for the salad, when it should be cut into bits 
with a knife, not chopped. When celery cannot be had, chopped 
white cabbage, or head lettuce, shredded, may be used instead with 
celery sef d. Frozen celery should be thrown into cold water while 
it is yet stiff; if it is allowed to partly thaw before putting into cold 
water it will be spoiled. All vegetables can be kept as above and 
crisped by placing in ice water an hour or two before serving. As- 
paragus, pease, and string beans for salads should be boiled in salted 
boiling water until tender, then drained and put into cold water at 
once, to preserve their color, and drained on a dry cloth to free from 
moisture before using. In preparing meat for salads it is much nicer to 
pick it or cut with a knife instead of chopping, always removing bits 
of gristle, fat and skin. 



Mixing Salads. — In preparing dressing, powder the hard-boiled 
eggs, either in a mortar with a wooden pestle or by mashing with 
back of salad spoon (if raw eggs are used beat well and strain), add 
seasoning, then oil, a few drops at a time, and, lastly and gradually, 
vinegar. The wooden salad fork and spoon are 
best to use in making salads, though silver may 
be used. Always wse freshest olive salad oil, not 
common sweet oil ; a dark paper should be kept saiad Fort and spoon. 
around the bottles of oil to shield them from the light, and they 
should be corked tightly enough to exclude the air and kept in a 
cool place. If oil can not b« obtained, cream or melted butter is a 
good substitute and by some considered even more palatable, but 
when used it should be added last of all. All cooked dressings are 
better made in custard kettle, using great care in adding eggs, let- 
ting the mixture cool slightly, and adding slowly, lest they curdle. 
Then, whether cooked or uncooked, dressing should be made as 
cold as possible before mixing with the salad, save when otherwise 
specified in recipes where cooked dressings are used. The quantity 
of oil and vinegar may be increased or diminished according to taste, 
as many persons prefer a smaller portion of the former, and when 
sugar is used the quantity will depend somewhat upon the acidity 



SALADS. 565 

of the vinegar. ^ In using raw eggs, the yolks make a richer dressing 
and when making a quantity it is economical to prepare it on bak- 
ing day, using the whites for cake. Appropriate dressings for each 
salad are suggested in recipes, but any dressing preferred may of 
course be used instead. When mixed, green salads should be stir- 
red as little as possible, in order that their freshness may be pre- 
served until they are served. Borage, summer savory, chervil, nas- 
turtium, sorrel and endive (which must be blanched or it is bitter) 
may be added to green salads. In preparing meat salads, all the 
ingredients, except the delicate green, if any is used, may be pre- 
pared the day before using if kept on ice or in cold place, but must 
not be mixed until an hour or two before serving. Then add the 
dressing and mix by tossing up lightly with a wooden or silver fork, 
turn into salad-bowl or on platter and shape into an oval mound, 
taking care to handle very lightly, never using the least pressure to 
get it into form ; then place on ice or in very cold place till ready to 
serve, as cold salad must be ice cold to be at its prime. Or mix 
only a part of the dressing with the salad and place remainder over 
the top. The salad is sometimes mixed with a plain dressing and 
a Mayonnaise placed over just before serving ; or the entire dressing 
may be poured over the top. The Mayonnaise, or a cooked dress- 
ing is generally used with chicken, fish or meat salads, and most 
vegetable salads ; for green salads, lettuce, cress, etc., the French 
or any plain dressing is most appropriate. 

Serving Salads. — Green salads are usually served in salad- 
bowl, also those arranged in layers, but for meat salads and com- 
bination of vegetables, as the Russian and Boston, the platter is 
more often used, as it can be more handsomely garnished and pre- 
sents a more attractive appearance. Though suggestions for garn- 
ishing follow each recipe, no exact rules can be given as the ma- 
terials mentioned may not always be at hand and much depends 
upon the individual taste and judgment. Wild flowers or nastur- 
tiums neatly arranged with alternate tufts of green, are very pretty 
during warm weather. During cold weather garnish with sliced 
eggs and pretty designs cut from beets, turnips, radishes, celery, etc. 
As handsome a garnish as we ever saw was as follows ; in center of 
the hollowed halves of whites of boiled eggs was placed a spray or 
two of parsley, the stem stuck in egg, so it was held firmly; three of 
these halves were placed in center of salad, then rings of the white 
placed around salad with a spray of parsley in each ; celery tufts 
could be used instead of parsley. A nice way of serving is in Salad 
Shells ] put two or three small lettuce leaves together in form of a 
shell, or take the cup-shaped leaves, form cups and arrange on a 
platter ; or some place a folded napkin in salad-bowl, then cover 
with lettuce leaves to absorb the drippings from the ice and put in 
the shells or cups with pieces of ice between ; put in each a table- 
spoon of the salad and over this a teaspoon of dressing. Or ar- 



566 SALADS. 

range thus in individual dishes and place one at each plate ; this is 
a very simple and yet very attractive way of serving any salad, ex- 
cept a green salad. Fruit salads are generally served at breakfast; 
vegetable and meat salads usually for tea and lunch or after meats 
at dinner. The cabbage, celery, cucumber, potato and green salads, 
are particula.'ly appropriate for serving with meats, though some 
prefer to serve lettuce and celery salads after the meat course. The 
riclier salads, like chicken, lobster and salmon are particularly 
nice for suppers and lunches, but are also served after meats at dinner. 

Bavarian Dressing. — Put half pint boiling water in custard 
kettle, add three tablespoons vinegar and place on stove. Beat three 
eggs lightly; mix with a little cold water, tablespoon mustard, tea- 
spoon salt, pinch of cayenne and half tablespoon corn-starch, beat 
this mixture up with eggs, and stir it very slowly into the boiling 
water and vinegar, removing latter from stove in order to prevent 
possibility of curdling ; then return to stove and stir constantly un- 
til quite thick. Take from fire, add immediately a quarter pound 
butter and stir until it is thoroughly melted. Put yolk of an egg 
on plate, and with a fork, mix gradually with it gill olive oil, beat- 
ing it in well. When first mixture is cold, beat second into it. If 
more oil is desired, the yolk of another egg must be mixed with it. 
This recipe will make about a pint. 

Bouillon Dressing. — To one pint boiling water, or veal, tish or 
chicken broth add a small, scraped carrot and half an onion, sliced 
half bay leaf, celery root cut in pieces, seven cloves, five whole all- 
spice, fifteen pepper-corns and quarter teaspoon white mustard seed ; 
simmer fifteen minutes, adding a little more water if needed ; strain 
and cool. To each gill liquid add a gill vinegar, teaspoon sugar, 
and pour over any salad wished. For Jellied Bouillon Dressing, 
add to this, third of box of gelatine soaked in cold water, and to each 
quart of liquid the white and shell of an egg ; when just commencing 
to boil place on back of range and simmer seven minutes or until 
it looks clear as inclarifying soup ; strain and use as directed inGelin- 
ola salad. When vinegar is strong do notuse more than two-thirds as 
much. Double this recipe makes a pint of bouillon and this with 
two-thirds pint vinegar, two-thirds box or ounce and a third gela- 
tine and a box sardines makes a quart mold of Sardine Salad. 

Cream Dressing. — Three eggs, tablespoon olive oil or melted 
butter, and two of mustard, cup each sweet cream and vinegar, tea- 
spoon each salt and pepper ; mix mustard and oil, then eggs well- 
beaten, cream, vinegar, salt and pepper, all together ; put mixture 
in custard kettle and boil gently until thick as cream ; when done, 
put in quart jar, cork tightly, and it will keep for months. Can be 
used for all kinds of salads and slaws. A tablespoon sugar may be 
added if liked. If to be used immediately make only half or a third 
of the recipe, and add beaten egg and cream after taking from fire. 



SALADS. 567 

Eggless Cream Dressing. — Prepare cream as above add table- 
spoon butter mixed smooth with a tablespoon and a half flour, cook 
two or three minutes ; take off fire, add tablespoon more butter, stir 
till well mixed, add vinegar and seasoning as above, omitting the 
oil. Addition of lemon juice, minced onion, parsley, chopped pickle, 
etc., may be made as wished. 

French Dressing. — Mix thoroughly together six tablespoons 
oil, two saltspoons salt, half saltspoon white pepper and two table- 
spoons vinegar. A pinch cayenne may be added. For an Italian 
Dressing add teaspoon each chopped onion and pickle. 

Mayonnaise Dressing. — Take yolks of two eggs, two saltspoons 
salt, one of white pepper or pinch of cayenne, teaspoon dry mustard, 
half pint olive-oil and about three tablespoons vinegar. T^ prevent 
danger of curdling, beat with a wooden spoon the yolks, salt, pep- 
per and mustard together before adding the oil which must be stir- 
red in gradually, a few drops at a time, taking care to blend each 
portion with the egg before adding more, stirring constantly, until 
a thick paste is formed, and the mixture has a glossy instead of 
velvety appearance ; then add a few drops vinegar, stirring all the 
time, until of the consistency of thick cream ; stir in more oil in 
drops until the mayonnaise is stiff again, when a few drops vinegar 
should be beaten in and so continue alternating until all the oil is 
used, adding vinegar rather cautiously at the last so that when fin- 
ished the mayonnaise will be stiff enough to remain on top of the 
salad. The dressing should be stirred one way, as reversing the 
current causes it to curdle. Lemon juice may be used instead of 
vinegar, or a few drops may be added with the vinegar. This is the 
smoothest and richest of salad dressings, the oily flavor is entirely 
lost in combination with the raw egg. Fifteen or twenty minutes 
are usually required for putting the ingredients together. Care 
must be taken not to add too much oil at first or the mayonnaise 
will curdle. When this happens, beat the yolks of one or two more 
eggs on another plate, add to them the curdled mayonnaise by de- 
grees, and finish by adding more oil and vinegar or lemon juice. 
Some think there is less danger of curdling if the addition of vine- 
gar is begun when only a little oil has been used. After all ingred- 
ients are thoroughly mixed the addition of a cup whipped cream en- 
riches the dressing, and some add a teaspoon or two sugar. This 
sauce keeps well, if bottled and corked with a glass stopper, and it 
may be made at any time in advance when yolks are left over from 
baking. In summer, place oil and eggs in cold place half an hour 
before making. The well-beaten white of an egg may be added to 
the dressing just before using. To make Red Mayonnaise, add 
lobster coral, pounded to a powder and rubbed through a sieve, or 
use juice from boiled beets. Y or Green J/rt'?/<9nwa^^<f^, add Spinach 
or Parsley Coloring, and use taragon vinegar. If liked any of the 
flavored vinegars given in pickles may be used instead of the plain. 



668 SALADS. 

Minnehaha Dressing. — Dissolve tablespoon mustard in a little 
vinegar, then add a little more of latter till half a pint is used ; mix 
in this gill sugar, more if wished sweeter, and two tablespoons soft, 
but not melted, butter ; let boil, place on back of range and add 
yolks of six eggs or four whole ones, as directed in Mixing Salad. 
When done, and ice cold pour over any salad wished, but especially 
nice for Tip-Top Salad, This dressing keeps nicely when corked 
tightly. Less eggs may be taken, using a teaspoon corn-starch for 
each egg omitted. 

Orange Dressing. — Beat together two and a half gills orange 
and gill lemon juice, add five tablespoons fine granulated sugar and 
l)eaten white and shell of half an egg ; cook in custard kettle ten 
minutes, strain and when cold pour over the salad. For Jellied 
Orange Dressing., add to above mixture when half done, third of a 
box gelatine, (two-thirds of an ounce) soaked in seven tablespoons 
cold water, strain and use as directed in Gelhiola Salad. For Rasp- 
berry Dressing, make as first recipe, using two and a half gills rasp- 
berries and one gill currant juice ; for Jellied Raspberry Dressing, 
make as second recipe. Water may be added to juice if wished. 

Swiss Dressing. — Mash the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, with 
two teaspoons each white pepper and made mustard, one of salt and 
a pinch of cayenne ; add three tablespoons melted butter or salad 
oil, a few drops at a time, and when smooth stir in a well-beaten 
egg, and gradually add cup vinegar, or use half lemon juice. Some 
use only the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs, and stir in 
beaten yolks of two eggs at the last instead of the whole egg. A 
tablespoon sugar may be added, and cream or clarified chicken fat 
may be used instead of oil or butter, adding twice the quantity of 
cream. Or for a Foam Dressing stir in first recipe the whipped 
white of an egg just before serving, having added tablespoon sugar. 

Anchovy Salad. — Wash, skin and bone eight salted anchovies, 
soak in cold water, or water and milk, an hour, then drain and dry 
them. Arrange lettuce leaves neatly in salad bowl and over them 
put the anchovies and two sliced hard-boiled eggs, pour a French 
or any plain Dressing over and serve. If preferred, the fish may be 
chopped or cut into strips. 

Apple Salad. — Slice very tart apples and mix with young 
onions, chopped, place on a dish and pour a French Dressing over. 
Or for Apple and Celery Salad mix equal quantities sliced apples 
and cut celery and pour over any dressing preferred. 




SALAD. 569 

Bean Salad. — When boiled string beans are cold, slice them 
lengthwise, cutting them into four long slices ; place them neatly, 
the slices ail lying in one direction crosswise on the platter. Sea- 
^^!^^ son them an hour or two before serving, with a 
marinade of a little pepper, salt, and three spoon- 
^^ fuls of vinegar to one spoonful of oil. Just before 

Bean Salad. scrvlug, drain from them any drops that may have 

collected and carefully mix with the Italian Dressing. 

Cabbage Salad. — Soak two quarts chopped cabbage in salted 
water, two tablespoons salt to quart water, an hour or longer ; mean- 
time making Minnehaha Dressing and mixing it with the cabbage 
after draining in colander, pressing well with potato masher to ex- 
tract all the water; toss lightly with fork and serve. A little 
chopped celery soaked with the cabbage is an improvement as it 
harmonizes perfectly and a quantity may be made up for it will 
keep nicely in a tightly covered jar. 

Chicken Salad. — Boil chicken until tender, salting to taste ; 
when cold cut in half inch pieces rejecting all fat, gristle and skin, 
place in earthen bowl and to every quart add two tablespoons vine- 
gar, one of oil, half teaspoon salt and quarter teaspoon pepper. Set 
away in cold place an hour or two ; prepare the ,-jig»^^^=^ 
celery as directed, in the proportion liked, and '^^^^^^r;"^^^, 
put in ice-box or other cool place until time to ^ ^^^ ^^^^P 
serve. Make a Mayonnaise Dressing, mix the ' chicken saiad. 
chicken and celery together with a part of the dressing, arrange in 
a smooth mound on flat dish, pour remainder of Mayonaise over, 
and garnish with white celery leaves, reserved for this purpose, with 
a little bouquet of the leaves stuck on top encircling with rows of 
capers and bordering with slices of hard-boiled eggs as shown in 
cut. Or when mixing the chicken and celery add half gill vinegar 
and a gill and a half salad oil to each quart salad, with pepper and 
salt to taste ; then make into a mound or place on a bed of lettuce 
leaves, as above, and pour the Mayonnaise Dressing over. When 
making for large parties, or when the chicken is dry from having 
been cut up too long, first pour a Plain Dressing over the salad, let 
stand an hour or two and drain before dishing and adding the May- 
onnaise. But when lettuce leaves are used, the vinegar or plain 
dressing must be poured over the chicken alone as the lettuce wilts 
80 soon, and must be added only just before dishing for the table. 

Gelinola Salad. — This is one of the most delicious as well as 
ornamental salads and is made with fish, shell fish, meats, fruit, 
vegetables, etc. To make With Fish any kind of cold cooked fish 
may be used, cut in pieces, but sardines and canned shrimps pre- 
pared whole are especially ornamental ; make a Jellied Bouillon 
Dressing, using Tarragon or Anchovy vinegar if obtainable, instead 
of the plain vinegar. Rinse a mold and pour in some of the jelly 
to the depth of third of an inch ; set mold in a bed of pounded ice, 
or snow, and put in a cold place ; when hardened lay in whole fish. 



570 SALAD. 

or pieces, in any design wished, not letting them touch the sides of 
mold ; then fill spaces between the fish with more jelly until the 
fish begin to float, and when hardened repeat as above, till mold is 
full. Keep dressing from hardening while using, by placing pitcher 
in hot water as described in Chicken in Jelly ; although if bed of ice 
or snow is used, the salad soon hardens and simply keeping the 
pitcher on kitchen table will be warm enough as it wants to be half 
thickened when used. Place mold on ice for three or four hours, re- 
move aa directed, and serve on platter garnished with parsley, let- 
tuce, sliced boiled eggs, beets, etc., arrange in any pretty design. 
A Sardine Dressing may be prepared and a spoonful placed upon 
each slice when served at table, or it may be served without any 
dressing. Or With Oysters, slightly cook them, or sprinkle with 
salt and pepper and let stand an hour or two, drain and make same 
way, adding celery cut in quarter inch dice as a border to the layer 
of oysters, and using the oyster liquor with what water is necessary 
in place of the water for the Jellied Dressing. Celery Vinegar makes 
the salad nicer than plain vinegar. With Lobster, make same as 
fish and the coral and different parts can be arranged in the jelly to 
make a very handsome dish. With Game, Poultry or Meat, pre- 
pare as with fish, being cold, cooked ingredients and serving at 
table with any dressing wished or without any. A harmoniously 
flavored vinegar may be used in the dressing for any of the differ- 
ent salads instead of plain if wished. With Fruit, make same, 
using the Jellied Orange Dressing with high colored fruit, as cur- 
rants, raspberries, cherries, strawberries, blackberries, etc., and with 
slices of peaches, pears, apples, etc., the Jellied Raspberry Dressing, 
serving former with or without the Orange Dressing (liquid) and 
the latter with or without the Raspberry Dressing. With Vege- 
tables prepare in same manner, using cold cooked vegetables with 
the Jellied Bouillon Dressing, and where pease, dice of carrots, white 
turnips, beets, etc., are arranged tastefully the effect is very pleasing, 
or use any of the green vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, etc., or 
either kind can be used with fish, meat or poultry and be found an 
addition ; and in fact many combinations can be made with differ- 
ent kinds of fruit, different kinds of meat, etc. It is not at all diffi- 
cult to make, only somewhat tedious, but one will be fully repaid 
for all the trouble in both the taste and beauty of the salad. 

Lettuce Salad. — Wash the lettuce carefully, using only the in- 
side tender leaves, and wipe with a cloth to remove all grit. It is a 
very delicate vegetable and easily spoilt by careless handling. Tear 
into small pieces or use whole (never cut lettuce). Place in a bowl 
and cover with the Foam or French Dressing. Powdered sugar 
may also be sprinkled over the lettuce before adding dressing. 
Some prefer to serve the salad alone and add dressing at 
table. Those who like the flavor add a chopped onion. 



SALADS. 671 

Sliced and chopped radishes and cucumbers are also used in lettuce 
salad and adding thin slices of cold meat or flaked fish makes a 
very nice dish for luncheon. Chopped celery and anchovies are 
nice additions to a plain lettuce salad, or add a few tarragon leaves. 
Tarragon has a flavor unlike anything else, and gives to lettuce 
salad that pleasing flavor peculiar to French salads. If the leaves 
cannot be had, use tarragon vinegar instead of plain in the dressing 
If the lettuce is at all wilted place in very cold water for an hour or 
two Sliced cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, pickled beets, nastur- 
tiums, radishes, and cut vegetable flowers are used for garnishing. 
Cheese is generally served with lettuce salad, and when latter is 
dressed at table, serve small dish grated cheese with it to be 
sprinkled over the lettuce. It is delicious, and sometimes crackers or 
thin bread and butter accompany it. Cheese crusts,and Cheese Straws 
are also very palatable with it. Corn-salad Salad is made as above 
using corn-salad instead of lettuce. Currant Salad is made by 
mixing fresh ripe currants with lettuce and the French Dressing. 

Lobster Salad. — Crack the claws of a cooked lobster (see Shell- 
fish) after first disjointing, twist off" head, split body in two length- 
wise, pick out meat in bits not too fine, saving coral separate ; tear 
a large head of lettuce into pieces about two inches square, and 
place on dish, over which lay the lobster, putting the coral around 
the outside and pour over it a Mayonnaise, Bavarian or Eggless. 
Cream Dressing. Some reserve the green fat, work it into a smooth 
paste, mix this well with yolk of a raw egg and add the mixture to 
the Mayonnaise. When celery is used the lobster meat, moistened 
with a little of the Mayonnaise, and celery may be arranged in three 
layers with lettuce leaves at bottom, then meat, then celery and fin- 
ish with the meat, pouring remainder of Mayonnaise over as above. 
A few olives may be added if liked. Some reserve pieces of the 
lobster meat to he used in garnishing, and having arranged the salad 
on a dish, place first a row of sliced cucumbers, then the pieces of 
lobster, sliced yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, the coral saved 
from lobster and sliced beets placed alternately, or arranged in 
small separate bunches, so that the colors contrast nicely. Capers, 
olives and small pickled gherkins are also used. The claws,'tail and 
head are also used for garnishing. To prepare them, open the shell 
of the tail with a can-opener, without mangling the flesh, split it 
and remove the intestine running through the middle, open the 
claws in same way, and use the meat from all in the salad, rub the 
head with a little oil to brighten the color and place in center of 
dish ; arrange the salad around it, pour the dressing over, and garn- 
ish with the claws, tail, coral, small lettuce leaves or tufta of celery, 
with the addition of any of above garnishes mentioned. The eggs 
of the hen lobster should be carefully removed from the tail pins 
and sprinkled over the salad after covering with the Mayonnaise. 



572 



SALADS. 



which may also be colored with the coral if latter is not wanted for 
the garnish, or serve in Salad Shells as directed in preface. To 
make Canned Lobster Salad, take one can of lobster, chopped fine, 
twelve hard-boiled eggs, also chopped fine, mix and pour over a hot 
Cream Dressing, tossing all up lightly with a fork. 

Nasturtium Salad. — Shred nasturtium flowers in small pieces, 
salt and pepper well and pour a Mayonnaise Dressing over. Or 
mix with the nasturtiums a head of shred lettuce or pint water- 
eresses and three chapped hard-boiled eggs and teaspoon sugar. 
Put in dish with two alternate layers of Mayonnaise, or any dress- 
ing liked, and garnish with a wreath of nasturtium flowers and 
bunch of same in center. 

Orange Salad. — Do not peel, but slice thin two or three sour 
oranges on a dish, remove seeds and pour over them a dressing of 
three tablespoons salad oil, a dust of cayenne pepper, a little salt if 
wished, and juice of one lemon if oranges are too sweet, with grated 
rind of an orange. This is a delicious accompaniment for boiled or 
roasted garne. For Florida Salad, place in salad bowl alternate 
layers of sliced oranges and bananas ; pour over the Orange Dress- 
ing, and put on ice or in cold place three or four hours. Any har- 
monious combination of fruits may be prepared same way, Peaches 
and Pine-apples, Raspberries and Currants, or Strawberries and 
Oranges, using either the Orange or Raspberry Dressing, always re- 
membering that all Fruit Salads must stand two or three hours be- 
fore serving to be in their prime. 

Oyster Salad. — Prepare oysters as directed in Shell Fish, using 
the smaller ones, and after draining, (do not cook) add to them 
chopped celery, cover with Mayonnaise Dressing and when very cold 
serve. Or put the liquor that drains from them over the fire, add- 
ing a little vinegar ; skim and when hot put in the oysters and let 
boil up once to plump, not cook them ; then skim out oysters and 
cool quickly by plunging into cold water a moment and draining, 
or by setting the plate on ice ; some let them cool in liquor in which 
they were boiled, to which may be added instead of the vinegar a 
little salt, pepper, butter, and blade of mace. When the oysters are 
cold mix lightly with an equal quantity cut celery or shred lettuce, 
and two pickled cucumbers cut fine, chopping the oysters coarsely, 
if liked, or leaving them whole. Turn the cooked oyster liquor over 
and just before serving stir in a Swiss or Mayonnaise Dressing, 
tossing up lightly with a fork. 

Potato Salad. — This salad may be prepared with cooked pota- 
toes, either cold or hot, though many cooks differ on this point, 
some maintaining that the potatoes should always be hot, while 
others meet the most gratifying success in using them cold. It is 
claimed that a salad made from hot potatoes will keep nicely three 
or four days, while that from the cold vegetable will soon turn dark. 



SALADS. 573 

For a plain salad either chop the potatoes or slice thinly as pre- 
ferred, add a small onion, chopped or sliced, to each pint potato, ar- 
range them on dish without breaking slices and serve with a good 
salad dressing poured over, or the dressing is nice added in alter- 
nate layers with the potato. Some grate the onion over the pota- 
to, which may be cut in strips if preferred ; or omit the onion and 
serve with a French Dressing with the addition of celery salt. 
Some add a few blanched and quartered almonds and liickory-nut 
iticats. Or sliced lemons or anchovies may be added. Those who 
n re fond of onions may use one-third onion to two-thirds potatoes 
imd cover with a Mayonnaise Dressing. Chopped lettuce with the 
onions improves the salad. When the onions are not used, chopped 
parsley is a nice addition, and it may also be used with the onions. 
Some like bits of fried salt pork mixed with the potatoes. An ex- 
cellent salad is made by mixing a quart potatoes, pared and cut in 
th/n slices while hot, with two tablespoons each grated onion and 
c?iopped parsley, four of chopped beet, and enough of any preferred 
o'ressing to make moist ; the Sardine Dressing is very nice for this, 
'riie salad is better if vegetables are mixed and let stand two or 
three hours before adding dressing, keeping in a cool place, 

Salmon Salad. — To make from fresh salmon, broil two salmon 
steaks, or take cold boiled salmon, break into flakes or cut in two 
inch pieces and add little salt, pepper and two tablespoons lemon 
juice or vinegar, some add a little chopped onion, parsley and 
salad oil, and let stand from one to three hours. Then half fill a 
salad bowl with lettuce, put in the prepared fish and garnish with 
hard-boiled eggs, stoned olives and a few spiced oysters. Or place 
the prepared salmon in a circle on the lettuce leaves, pour a Mayon- 
naise Dressing in center and sprinkle capers over the whole. 
Some season the lettuce with Italian Dressing before dishing. 
If salmon is boiled purposely for salad it can be made into 
neater slices by cutting before cooking, then put in wire basket and 
set in warm water to which a little vinegar and salt has been added, 
bring to a boil and simmer gently until tender. Pike, blue-fish and 
flounders make nice salads prepared same way. For Canned Sal- 
mon Salad, put three stalks celery, cut, in salad bowl, arrange neatly 
over it a half pound canned salmon, turn a Mayonaise Dressing 
over, garnish and serve. 

Sardine Salad. — Wash the oil from six sardines, remove skin 
and bone and squeeze a little lemon juice over them, put a layer of 
lettuce leaves in salad bowl and over them the fish with two chopped 
hard-boiled eggs scattered over and serve with Sardine Dressing. 
Or arrange sliced cucumber pickles and sliced hard-boiled eggs with 
the fish around the center of lettuce leaves and serve same. Or first 
place any kind of cooked fish on a bed of crisp lettuce and cover 
with the Sardine Dressing ; split six sardines, remove bones and ar- 



574 



SALADS. 



range them over the fish and dressing so that the ends meet in cen- 
ter of dish. Enrich the whole with thin slices of lemon and gar- 
nish with parsley or lettuce. 

Shrimp Salad. — When buying canned shrimps select those la- 
beled simply shrimps, not potted shrimps, as the latter are chopped, 
and are not so nice for salad as the whole ones, even when they are 
to be chopped in preparing. For a plain salad take one and one- 
third bunches celery and one can shrimps ; cut celery in fine pieces 
and wash ; halve or chop the shrimps, or prick them in pieces as 
preferred, mix, sprinkle with a little salt and pour a Mayonnaise 
Dressing over. Shred lettuce may be used instead of celery. If to 
be served whole take the shrimps carefully from the bag in which 
they are put into can, remove all bits of shell or black specks, tak- 
ing care not to break their form, pile them high on a bed of shred 
lettuce or cut celery in salad bowl, pour Bavarian Dressing over and 
serve garnished with border of lettuce leaves or celery tops, with 
tuft in center ; or serve in the Salad Shells. 

Tomato Salad — Arrange red and yellow sliced tomatoes alter- 
nately in a glass dish on a bed of lettuce, pour over Cream Dressing 
and dust a little pepper on top. Or sprinkle a teaspoon chopped 
tarragon over three sliced tomatoes, with a little chopped onion if 
liked, and cover with Cream or Mayonnaise Dressing ; or omit the 
tarragon and onion and serve a teaspoon Mayonnaise Dressing spread 
on each slice, neatly arranging on flat dish. May 
be garnished with a delicate border of parsley, 

with a few sprigs laid between the sliced tomatoes. 

Tomato Salad. Somc dip the tomato into a mixture of three ta- 

blespoons vinegar to one of oil, pepper and salt; then drain well 
and mix them in the Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Whipped Cream Slaw. — Chop cabbage fine and dress as above, 
then cover with plenty whipped cream, sweetened ; it is nicer to 
first place slaw in the individual dishes and then cover about an 
inch deep with whipped cream. 

Jelly Border for Salad. — Pour enough liquid Aspic Jelly in 
crown mold to make a layer half an inch deep ; when hard arrange 
on the jelly dainty shapes of cooked carrot and beet, cut with vege- 
table cutter, and white of hard-boiled eggs in rings ; add 
carefully two tablespoons more of the jelly, having 
kept it warm by placing in pan of hot water. "When 
hardened, fill with remainder of jelly and set away un- 
til ready to serve. Wrap a towel wet in warm water 
^d.'"' around the mold, turn the jelly out very carefully and 
fill center with any nice salad. Boned Fowl or Marbled Veal can 
also be served in the center. 





SHELL-FISH. 575 



SHELL-FISH. 



To thoroughly enjoy and appreciate shell-fish one must live on 
the coast ; and yet transportation has been so far perfected that they 
are found quite fresh in almost every place. Of course the canned goods 
are always obtainable. The oyster is more used than any of the others 
and there is not a lover of them who does not heartily sympathize with 
the boy who wanted to spell August "0-r-g-u-s-t," in order to bring 
it into the list of the months which contain an "r" in all of which 
oysters are in season. The delicious bivalves furnish an important, 
and, in most localities, a not expensive article of food ; and the ease 
with which they are prepared for table, and great variety of ways in 
which they may be cooked and served, make them a great favorite 
with housekeepers. To judge whether clams and oysters are fresh 
insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife 
they are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly or not at all they are 
dying or dead ; or another test is that when fresh, the shell is firmly 
closed ; if open the oyster is dead and unfit for use. Oysters in the 
shell may be kept in a cool cellar, and occasionally sprinkled with 
salt water. The small-shelled variety have the finest flavor. For 
the freshness of canned oysters it is necessary to trust the dealer, 
but never buy cans the sides of which are swollen. In preparing 
them for cooking or for table, carefully remove all hits of shelL 
When cooking, some do not skim at all, others only slightly, claim^ 
ing that a great deal of the rich flavor is lost by so doing ; and with 
good fresh oysters, and none other should be used, it is not neces- 
sary. Never salt oysters for soups or stews till just before removing 
them from the fire, or they will shrivel up and be hard, and add but- 



576 



SHELL-FISH. 



ter at same time as too much cooking makes butter oily. Roasting 
in shell best preserves natural flavor. Always serve immediately 
after cooking J no matter what method is used and do not cook long, 
never boiling more than a minute or two. This is also true of 
lobsters, etc., as long cooking toughens the meat. In handling 
oysters the wire oyster fork is nice as the short tines hold the oyster 

^ at the end of the fork, instead of allowing 

\^^ "^v»» the tines to slip through and project be- 

wire oytser Pork. youd the oystcr. As to nutritive qualities 

oysters rank much below meats, and it is even questioned whether 
they contain the phosphorus, or brain-food, which has been credited 
to them in company with the finny tribe in general. But, when 
properly cooked, they are easy of digestion, and very proper food 
for persons whose occupation is sedentary, and whose duties do not 
call for heavy muscular exertion. Even for invalids, they are nu- 
tritious and wholesome, when delicately prepared. For varieties, 
etc., of shell-fish see Marketing and to dress lobsters, terrapins, etc., 
for the different dishes given, see Cutting and Curing Meats. To 
open oysters, wash the shells and put on hot coals or upon top of a 
hot stove, or bake in a hot oven ; or open on 
end with oyster knife or sharp iron, resting 
round part of oyster shell in left hand, using 
the knife with right, or open cans with can can opener. 

opener. From the middle of January to middle of March oysters 
are really in best condition and are also less expensive. 




Boiled Lobster. — Put in boiling water, with little salt, and boil 
till cooked through and shell turns red ; rub shell with sweet oil 

after wiping to brighten color. Split 
body and tail through, crack claws 
and it is ready to serve, but must 
be cut up fine before eating. A 
_ dressing made of salt, mustard, oil, 
Wim cayenne pepper and vinegar, mixed 
_ with the yolk of an egg, is usually 
^^^ prepared for it. The white of a hard- 
Boiied Lobster. " bollcd egg may be minced fine and 

strewn over it. Boiled Orahs are prepared and served same, pro- 
curing the hard-shelled, and being careful to remove eyes, soft fins, 




SHELL-FISH. 577 



etc., before cooking. The meat is often picked from shell before 
sent to table and served with salt, pepper, lemon juice or vinegar 
or any good table sauce, or heat it in White Sauce, or with butter, 
vinegar and a rather high seasoning. 

Broiled Lobster. — Cut tail part of lobster in two, rub a little 
sweet oil over the meat and broil. When done brush a little butter 
over it with juice of half a lemon and a very little cayenne. Put 
meat back in shell and send to table with dish of broiled tomatoes 
and fresh baked potatoes. Or cut tail in square pieces, cut a few 
thin slices bacon into squares a little larger than the lobster ; place 
on a skewer alternately and broil ; baste as above and send to table 
on bed of water-cresses. 

Deviled Lobster. — Take the meat from boiled lobsters as direct- 
ed in Lobster Salad and chop fine, or cut into fine dice, reserving 
the coral. Rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar until 
thin enough to pour easily. Season the lobster meat highly with 
mustard, cayenne, salt, and sharp sauce. Toss up with a fork until 
mixed and put in covered saucepan with only enough hot water to 
keep from burning ; boil up once and stir in prepared coral, add 
tablespoon butter and when it reaches boiling point take from fire. 
Do. not cook to much or meat will be tough. May be served hot 
in deep dish or put back in shells, or in baking dish covered with 
bread-crumbs and bits of butter and browned in oven. If to be 
served in shells, be careful in opening not to break the body or tail 
of shells, which must be washed and dried, rubbed in oil, and if 
two lobsters are used may be put together in form of a boat. Some 
chop a little parsley and shallot with the meat, add a few drops 
essence of anchovies, tablespoon vinegar, cayenne pepper and salt, 
and a little Cream or Bechamel Sauce ; boil all well together, add 
beaten yolk of an egg, put in the shells, cover with bread-crumbs 
and bits of butter and brown twenty minutes in oven. Or, boil a 
pint of cream or milk and stir with two tablespoons flour and one 
^~~ " ~ of mustard mixed smooth with 

three tablespoons hot cream ; 
cook two minutes, add meat from 
two lobsters with salt, pepper, 
and pinch cayenne, boil one min- 
ute, put in shells as above, brown 
in oven and serve on long narrow 
platter, with body in center and tails at each end, garnished with 
parsley and sliced lemon. The prepared meat left over is nice re- 
heated and served on slices of toast for breakfast. For Scalloped 
Lobster, omit the mustard in last recipe, put the mixture in buttered 
dish or scallop shells and finish as above. White Stock or water 
may be used instead of milk or cream and some prefer to thicken 
with corn-starch. Canned lobster may be used in any of above recipes. 
37 




578 SHELL-FISH. 



Roasted Lobster. — When lobster is half cooked, remove from 
water and rub thoroughly with butter, put in heated pan in hot 
oven and baste constantly with butter until it has a fine froth and 
shell is dark brown. Place on dish and serve with melted butter. 

Lobster Croquettes. — Chop meat of a boiled lobster fine with 
quarter as much bread as meat ; add pepper, salt, and mace if liked, 
make into pointed balls with two tablespoons melted butter, single- 
bread them and fry in butter or lard. Serve dry and hot and gar- 
nish with crisp parsley. Delicious entree or supper dish. 

Broiled Oysters. — Remove from shell and heat two dozen oys- 
ters in their own liquor, drain and add to oysters in pan a lump of 
butter, little chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt and scald 
but do not boil ; then put back in shells with a few drops of lemon 
juice, cover with bread-crumbs and broil ; when they boil in shell 
take from fire and serve at once. Or, open oysters, leaving them in 
their deep shell, taking care not to spill the juice, season with small 
piece butter, a little cayenne, salt, and lemon juice if liked ; place 
on gridiron over brisk fire and broil about three minutes. Serve 
with bread and butter. 

Creamed Oysters. — Put pint cream in custard kettle with a slice 
of onion and a bit of mace and let boil ; add tablespoon flour mix- 
ed smooth with little cold milk or cream, and salt or pepper to 
taste ; have the oysters scalded in their own liquor, skimmed if 
necessary, drain and add them to the boiling cream. Skim out 
mace and onions and serve very hot on slices of hot buttered toast. 
Some do not scald the oysters before adding to cream and add their 
liquor also. The onions and mace may be omitted. 

Fried Oysters. — This, next to soup, is the way in which oysters 
are most generally served and we give a number of recipes ; for all 
of them, the oysters must be drained thoroughly in colander and 
all bits of shell removed ; to do which it is sometimes necessary to 
take up each oyster, and some dry on a soft white cloth, although 
it is best to handle them as little as possible as it tends to toughen 
them. They can be breaded in any of the ways given on page 267 
and bread-crumbs may be used, but it is then very necessary that 
they be wiped dry before dipping, but with cracker-dust draining 
is all that is needed. Where one is near a large bakery, it is nicer 
to buy the latter rather than to prepare it one's self and even more 
economical. Philadelphia Fried Oysters are prepared by rolling 
them in flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, dropping them into 
an equal mixture of lard and salad oil made smoking hot in frying- 
pan, and serving them the instant their edges begin to curl. For 
Gopher Fried Oysters, beat three or four more eggs, according to 
number of oysters to be fried, add equal bulk of rich cream and 
season with salt and pepper ; dip oysters, one by one in this and 
then roll carefully in either sifted bread or cracker-orumbs. Let 



SHELL-FISH. 579 



stand in a cool place till ready to fry, an hour or so will not hurt 
them, fry in frying-pan or like fritters. With Oil, beat the yolks oi 
six eggs with three tablespoons salad oil and season with teaspoon 
salt and pinch cayenne, dip in this, then roll in cracker-dust and 
let stand ten minutes, then dip in mixture, lastly roll in sifted bread- 
crumbs and fry as above. For Italian Fried Oysters, boil three dozen 
oysters for one minute in their own liquor, and drain them ; fry 
them in two tablespoons butter, one of catsup, a little chopped 
lemon peel and parsley ; drain, place on dish, and garnish with 
fried potatoes and parsley. This is a delicious delicacy. Or some 
bread them, seasoning the crumbs with finely-chopped parsley, grated 
lemon rind and nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne, and fry as Gopher 
Fried [Oysters, seasoning with celery salt just Ibefore serving. For 
Manhattan Fried Oysters, after draining, season with salt and pepper, 
roll in cracker-crumbs or dust and cover the bottom of a frying-pan 
in which a tablespoon or two of butter has been made very hot ; fry 
brown, turning as needed and serve on dry toast. One of the most 
ornamental ways of serving fried oysters is as follows : cut off top 
from a brick-shaped loaf of bread scraping off the inner crumbs 
from top and the remaining part of loaf, leaving crust half an inch 
thick ; place in stove until thoroughly heated, then put in the fried 
oysters, cover with top, tie around it ribbon, corresponding with 
table decorations, place on platter and serve, garnished with slices 
of lemon and sprigs of parsley. The loaf may be usee* several times 
if cared for carefully ; or prepare small rolls in same way, cutting 
them into two lengthwise, fill, tie, and serve individually. These 
are also nice filled with any salad or chopped meats. Always serve 
pickles, slaw, grated horseradish, etc., with fried oysters. 

Fricasseed Oysters. — Drain liquor from a quart oysters, strain 
pint of it into stewpan and when it boils put in oysters ; when they 
begin to swell add tablespoon flour rubbed smooth with two of but- 
ter and cook until oysters are white and plump, add a gill cream 
with white pepper and salt to taste and serve hot ; some add beaten 
eggs and juice of a lemon, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over 
the fricassee, after dishing and just before serving ; or omit liquor, 
put drained oysters in a hot frying-pan with tablespoon butter, then 
finish as above, adding an egg or two with the cream. For a richer 
fricassee, parboil or swell fifty fine oysters in their own juice. Re- 
move scum, and place juice and oysters in a hot tureen, cover and 
keep in a warm place. Rub together six tablespoons butter, three 
of flour and a half gill hot cream till a smooth paste ; add this to a 
quart and a half hot cream in stewpan over fire and stir constantly ; 
season to taste with salt, white pepper, allspice, mace and a little 
nutmeg; stir until mixture begins to thicken, then add the well- 
beaten yolks of six eggs. Strain mixture over oysters, stir well, 
then cover thickly with bread-crumbs, on top of which lay a few bits 



580 SHELL FISH. 



of butter. Place in quick oven until top is of a very rich brown. Serve 
very hot. Some like the addition of a teaspoon chopped parsley, 
and if served in an open dish garnish with sauares or rounds of 
fried bread and sprigs of parsley. 

Hidden Oysters. — Cut as many thin slices of fat bacon as there 
are oysters, large New York Counts, dust a little cayenne on each 
oyster and wrap a slice of bacon around it, keeping in place with 
wooden toothpicks ; heat a frying-pan, put in bacon and oysters and 
keep over quick lire until bacon is browned on all sides, being care- 
ful not to burn ; take out the toothpicks or not as preferred, and 
serve singly on small squares of toast. Must all be prepared very 
quickly and served very hot. 

Panned Oysters. — To pan in their own juice, select two dozen of 
the freshest oysters, have a small pan about an inch deep 
with a handle ; open oysters into pan and add as much 
more juice. Add tablespoon butter, pinch of salt and 
black pepper, and sprinkle a little cracker-dust on top. Place on 
quick fire, and when oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve 
on toast. Or With Cream., place in stewpan, add some pepper, a 
little mace, two cloves, and four or five tablespoons cream. Set 
over fire until oysters swell. Then pour over toast and add a few 
bits of butter. Put tablespoon flour with Uquor from oysters, mix 
smoothly together and bring to a boil. Pour this over the oysters 
and toast, put in very hot oven and brown top a little. A few bread- 
crumbs may be sprinkled on top dish with bits of parsley before 
baking. To pan oysters In the Shell select the largest ones, wash 
both shells perfectly clean, put in baking pan with round side down, 
and place in oven. In a few minutes the shell will slightly open ; 
then take from fire, remove top shell carefully and retain all juice 
possible. Place on each oyster a piece of butter, sprinkle of salt 
and pepper, and a few bits of toast cut in half-inch sauares. Serve 
in shells placed on a folded napkin. 

Pickled Oysters. — Place oysters in saucepan and simmer gently 
in their own liquor about ten minutes. Take them out one by one, 
place in jar, cover, and when cold add a pickle made as follows: 
Measure the oyster liquor, add same quantity of vipegar, blade 
pounded mace, strip of lemon peel, whole cloves, boil five mmutes. 

Raw Oysters — Procure oysters as nearly of a size as possible, 
and have the shell scrubbed with a brush till free from sand or dirt ; 
open as directed in preface. In serving them without the shells the 
most attractive way is in a dish of ice, made by freezing water in a 
tin form shaped like a salad bowl, or in a Boat of Ice. Select a large 
block of ice, of crystal clearness ; with a hot flat iron melt a large 
enough place in the top to hold oysters, then chip from sides until 
shaped like a boat. Keep it where it may not melt. The oysters 
should be well drained, seasoned with pepper and salt, and placed 
in the ice-boat. Just before dinner is served, arrange a bed of 



SHELL FISH. 581 



fresh green geranium leaves or parsley or »-ny green upon a low 
platter and place the boat upon it, propping it up if necessary with 
a few small lumps of ice hidden among the leaves. Twine delicate 
green vines prettily over the boat and arrange a circle of vivid 
scarlet geraniums upon the platter around the base of the 
boat and place on upper edge halves or quarters of lemon 
as a garnish. Two folded napkins may be placed on platter 
to prevent the boat from slipping, then cover as above. This 
is a very elegant manner of serving, much more pleasing in appear- 
ance than the shells. It may be served merely on a square block 
without being chipped. A still more elaborate way is to have in- 
dividual dishes of ice also ; they can be made in same manner, some 
using an ordinary window weight, heated, to hollow them out and 
chipping the outside of the small blocks into eight-sided dishes or 
any shapes wished. Raw oysters are served with brown 
bread and butter as above for luncheon, but more frequently with 
thin slices of toast before soup at dinner. Frozen Oysters are es- 
teemed a great delicacy by some ; leave them where they will freeze, 
then open and serve in the half-shell. 

Scalloped Oysters. — This is another method of cooking oysters 
by which most of their fine native flavor may be retained, and is a 
very satisfactory dish. Butter and bread a baking dish, using only 
the sweetest of bread-crumbs and butter. On this place a layer of 
extra fine oysters, season with salt and pepper, and put in another 
layer of crumbs and another of oysters, and repeat this until the 
dish is full, having the last layer bread-crumbs, butterr 
and seasoning; add oyster liquor with a small dash 
cayenne pepper over the top. Be sure to use plenty ,^,^^^^^^^ 
of butter, place in a hot oven for thirty minutes, bak- inner m^ 
ing a rich brown and serve hot. The soufile dish is especially nice in 
which to cook and serve Scalloped Oysters or anything which is best 
served in dish in which it is cooked. One can have two inner dishes 
and so keep one hot in oven ready to place in the ornamental recep- 
tacle when first one is empty, as Scalloped Oysters to be in their prime 
must he hot. Instead of this dish one can use two ordinary quart bak- 
ing dishes, placing on the Knitted Cover when serving. Cream or milk 
may be added instead of water, to liquorpoured 
over the top, and some add with each layer a 
little of the liquid, as in this way it is all 
thoroughly moistened ; a little powdered 
Ornamental Reeeptacie, j^g^^g qj, gj-gted nutmcg uiay bc addcd if Hkcd. 
and it is made richer by also pouring over the top a cup milk in 
which a well-beaten egg has been mixed. Scalloped Clams are pre- 
pared same way, first chopping them if preferred. To serve in Scal- 
lop Shells, drain all the liquor from a quart oysters in stewpan,boil 
and skim and add half pint cream or milk with which two 
tablespoons flour should first be mixed : boil two minutes. 





582 SHELL-FISH. 




and tablespoon butter, salt, pepper, little nutmeg and 
the oysters, and take from fire almost immediately ; 
taste, and if needed add more seasoning. Have the scaiiop shiii. 
shells buttered and sprinkled lightly with crumbs ; nearly fill them 
with the prepared oysters and cover thickly with crumbs. Put 
shells in baking pan and bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot on 
large platter garnished with parsley. This quantity will fill a dozen 
shells of ordinary size. Clams maybe served same, chopping them 
and stewing a half hour in the cream. Some first fry a chopped 
onion light brown in butter, then add cream, etc., and after taking 
from fire add well-beaten yolks of eggs and put into shells as above. 
Shells are of tin, granite iron-ware, plated-silver and china. 

Skewered Oysters. — Take metal skewers and place on each a 
half-dozen oysters alternately, with half dozen thin slices bacon, 
size of oysters. Put skewers between bars of buttered wire 
broiler, broil and serve one skewer to each person ; or 
blanch oysters in two waters, and drain. Put in stewpan some 
chopped onions, mushrooms, and parsley, with butter and little 
flour ; warm oysters in the mixture, and stir in yolks of eggs to 
make it firm enough to adhere to oysters. String oysters on silver 
skewers, about six on each, the sauce adhering to oysters and setting 
around them. Bread them and broil. Dish up on napkin. 

Stuffed Oysters. — Grate yolks of three or four hard-boiled eggs, 
mix with them half as much fat salt pork or bacon, season with 
pepper and chopped parsley and add a raw egg to make a paste of 
mixture. Have ready a dozen of the largest oysters on a napkin, 
insert a penknife at the edge, split each up and down inside with- 
out making the opening very large, and push in a small teaspoon of 
the prepared force-meat. Double-bread them, using melted butter 
instead of egg, and broil over clear fire. For TruMed Oysters^ pre- 
pare a force-meat by chopping and then pounding to a paste the 
breast of a cooked chicken with half as much fat salt pork, raw, add- 
ing a small can of truffles cut to size of pease and quarter pod red 
pepper, finely minced. Prepare and stuff oysters as above, roll 
them in flour, dip in beaten egg, and fry by placing in frjdng-basket 
immersing in hot fat three or four minutes, or until a golden brown. 
Drain, dust lightly with fine salt and serve on diamond-shaped pieces 
of toast, four oysters on each. 

Oyster Fritters. — For a pint of oysters, sift pint flour 
with level teaspoonful salt, add yolk of egg, tablespoon salad oil quar- 
ter saltspoon pepper; and use enough strained liquor from oysters 
to make batter thick enough to drop. Beat white of an egg to stiff 
froth and mix this and the oysters lightly with batter and drop at 
once in large spoonfuls into frying kettle, half full of smoking hot 
fat. As a rule by the time fritter floats it is done. If there is not 
enough oyster liquor to make batter, add water, and some use two 
eggs instead of one yolk and chop oysters. Serve hot on napkin. 



SHELL-FISH. 583 



Oyster PaUks. — Have ready some Patty Shells, see Pastry, 
and fill with oysters prepared as follows : Heat half pint cream to 
boiling, stir in tablespoon flour, made smooth with a little cold milk, 
and season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon rind, pounded mace, 
or any spice liked, with a beaten egg or two if wished. While this 
is cooking bring the oysters to a boil in their own liquor, skim 
carefully, then dip out oysters, put them in the hot cream, boil up 
once, and serve immediately in the patty shells. The above quant- 
ity will fill a dozen and a half shells. Some strain the oyster liquor 
and add to the cream with a little more thickening, and the oysters 
may be bearded and cut up if preferred, some even chopping them. 
They may aiso be dressed without cream using only their liquor 
with a iiiile butter and thickening and the grated yolk of a hard- 
boiled egg, with seasoning to taste. Layer or Pyramid Shells may 
be used and with the latter, when adding the tops it is nice to place 
small sprigs of parsley between the shell and the tops. These are 
known as Oyster Vol-au- Vents. Or, line patty pans with puff paste, 
and put four or six oysters in each, according to size, with bits of 
butter and pepper and salt, sprinkle over a little flour and chopped 
hard-boiled eggs, allowing two eggs for six patties, cover with an 
upper crust and bake. May be served in the pans, or turned out 
and placed on platter. For Fritter Patties, qvlI a loaf of stale 
bread in slices an inch thick. With a cutter two inches and a half 
in diameter cut out as many pieces as patties wanted, and with an 
inch and a half cutter, press in center half through each piece. Put 
pieces in frying basket and plunge into boiling fat for half a minute. 
Take out, drain, and with a knife, remove the centers and take out 
soft bread ; then fill with following mixture ; put two tablespoons 
butter in frying-pan, and when hot, add one of flour. Stir until 
smooth and brown, add cup oyster liquor, boil one minute, and stir 
in one pint chopped oysters. Season with salt, pepper, and a little 
lemon juice. When hot, fill the crusts. Veal or any kind of meat 
or fish may be used with any kind of stock for the liquid. 

Oyster Powder. — Beard fresh large oysters and place in vessel 
over fire a few moments to extract their juice ; cool them and chop 
very fine with sifted biscuit or bread-crumbs, mace and finely 
minced lemon peel, then pound in mortar to a paste ; shape into 
thin cakes, place on buttered paper and bake in slow oven until 
quite hard. Take out and pound them to a powder, which put in 
air-tight tin box and keep in dry place. Nice for flavoring fish, 
soups, stews and sauces. 

Oyster Pie. — Butter a large dish, and spread a rich paste 
over the sides and around the edge, but not on the bottom ; drain 
off part of liquor from oysters, put them in pan, and season with 
pepper, salt, spice and butter ; have ready yolk of three hardboil- 
ed eggs chopped fine, and grated bread-crumbs ; pour the oysters 



SHELL-FISH. 



with enough of their liquor to moisten well, into the dish with the 
paste, strew over them tlie chopped eggs and grated bread, cover 
with the paste and bake in quick oven. Nice also, with gill of cream 
added, and a little flour. For a Chicken and Oyster Pie, parboil a 
chicken, cut up and place in baking dish, season and cover with a 
hiyer of oysters, season them with butter, pepper and salt, put two 
hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices, with piece of butter size of egg in 
center, sift flour over the whole, add a half pint milk, cover with the 
paste and bake three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven. 

Oyster Roll. — Cut a round piece, say six inches across, from top 
of weli-baked round loaf of bread, remove inside from loaf, leaving 
crust half an inch thick, break up crumbs very fine, and dry them 
slowly in an oven ; then quickly fry three cups of them in two ta])le- 
spoons butter, stirring all the time. As soon as they begin to look 
golden and are crisp they are done. Put quart cream on to 
heat, and when it boils stir in three tablespoons of flour, mixed with 
cup cold milk. Cook ten minutes, season well with salt and pep- 
per ; put a layer of this in the loaf, then a layer of oysters, which 
dredge well with salt and pepper ; then another layer of sauce and 
one of fried crumbs. Continue this until the loaf is nearly full, hav- 
ing the last layer a thick one of crumbs. Three pints of oysters are 
required for this dish, and about three teaspoons of salt and half 
teaspoon pepper. Bake slowly half an hour. Serve on a fringed 
napkin with a garnish of parsley around the dish. Or to serve in- 
dividually remove a slice from top of small rolls, scoop out the 
crumb and fill them with oysters slightly stewed with butter or 
cream, and some bread-crumbs ; replace tops of leaves and bake 
till crisp. Glaze with beaten egg. 

Oyster Stew. — Put oysters in stewpan with equal quantities 
water and juice, place over brisk fire, season with white pepper, 
bring to a boil, remove scum, add salt to taste, and pour into bowls 
with teaspoon butter in each. Cover bowls with plates and serve. 
A Cream Stao is made same way, adding cream instead of water. A 
Steio With Celery is made same as second recipe, adding a few stalks 
of celery cut up fine and a little mace. While cooking add tea- 
spoon or two powdered cracker-dust and cup beef broth. Bring to 
a boil and pour in bowl lined with toast, well buttered and cut in 
half diamond shape. Or put in stewpan a pint each best beef broth 
and rich sweet cream; add four tablespoons choice butter, three 
teaspoons salt, two white pepper, two of ground mace and the cut 
celerv, or, if this is not to be had, teaspoon celery extract ; stir in 
sifted cracker-dust to thicken slightly and when cooked, pour the 
sauce over fifty fine oysters, previously parboiled in their own juice 
and placed in tureen. Serve very hot. 

Oyster Toast. — Chop a dozen and a half good-sized oysters, 
season with white pepper and little nutmeg ; boil half a pint cream, 
put in oysters, letboil up once, take from fire, add salt to taste, stir 



SHELL-FISH. 585 



in well-beaten yolks of four eggs and pour over slices of buttered 
toast. Or beard and pound oysters in mortar to a paste,, add a lit- 
tle cream, and season with pepper. Spread this on small slices of 
toast, and place for a few minutes in oven to heat. A little finely 
chopped lemon peel may be sprinkled upon the tops. Oyster Cream 
Toast is a nice way of using the liquor when oysters are fried ; heat 
it and make a sauce by mixing over fire tablespoon each butter and 
flour until they bubble, then gradually stirring in the hot oyster 
liquor, adding if necessary a little boiling water to make a sauce of 
consistency of cream. Boil a minute or two, season with salt and 
white pepper and pour on slices of toast. For Oyster Sandwiches^ 
cook oysters in a very little water with butter and salt to taste, and 
put a la^er of them between two thin slices of dry toast, buttered 
slightly if wished. Oysters prepared in this way make a delicious 
entree to be sent to to the table with game of any kind. 

Oystei Vol-au- Vent. — Prepare the large vol-au-vent case as di- 
rected in Pastry. Scald a quart oysters in their own liquor, skim 
well, drain the oysters and return half pint of strained liquor to 
saucepan. Kub tablespoon flour smooth with two of butter and 
pour the hot oyster liquor over it ; season well with pepper and salt 
and a very little nutmeg or mace, if liked ; boil up once, add three 
tablespoons cream and the oysters, stir over the fire a minute, fill 
the vol-au-vent case, put on the cover and serve immediately. Beaten 
eggs may be added if wished richer. 

Oysters and Macaroni. — Lay some stewed macaroni in a deep 
dish and put over it a thick layer of oysters, bearded, and seasoned 
with cayenne pepper and grated lemon rind. Add a small cup 
cream. Strew bread-crumbs over the top, and brown it in a pretty 
quick oven. Serve hot, with Piquant Sauce. Or have ready a third 
of a package macaroni, two dozen oysters, cup milk, an egg, table- 
spoon flour, pepper and salt; [put the macaroni in boiling salted 
water, boil twenty minutes and drain dry ; butter the bottom of 
three-pint baking dish, put in half the macaroni, strew oysters over 
it, and dot with butter, in small pieces, dredge with salt and pepper 
and cover with rest of macaroni ; moisten the flour with a little 
milk, beat in the egg, then the rest of milk and oyster liquor, and 
pour in the dish and bake about twenty minutes or until set. Grated 
cheese, sprinkled between the layers of oysters and macaroni is a 
nice addition. If a larger dish is wanted, put in three layers each 
of oysters and macaroni, and some alternate also with layers of 
bread-crumbs, finishing with these on top. Scald the oyster liquor, 
strain, add sufficient milk to moisten the whole well and pour over 
the top, dot with bits of butter and bake about twenty minutes. 
Prepare Chicken and Macaroni same, first steaming chicken tender. 

Oysters in the Shell. — Select large shell oysters. Wash shells 
until clean as polished marble. Place in dripping pan with round 



586 



SHELL-FISH. 




shell down and set in hot oven twenty minutes. Do not remove 
top shell, but cook in both shells, and when done serve on upper 
part of shell instead of lower. Season highly with a bit of butter, 
cayenne pepper and teas}>oon lemon juice. Or open shells with knife 
' ' as directed, keeping deepes^t ones for use and 

loosen oysters entirely from shell, or they 
will draw to one side. Dredge fine bread- 
crumbs in shells, replace oysters, cover with 
bread-crumbs, and bake. When lightly 
browned, pour teaspoon melted butter over 
each, moistening crumbs well and dust with 
salt and pinch cayenne. It hastens the 
browning to have the bread dry. Serve four or five on a plate, 
with a quarter of lemon in center. Or having washed empty shells, 
place them in pan in very hot oven and when hot put in each a bit 
of butter and dust of pepper with a large oyster or several small ones ; 
put pan in oven till edges curl, then take shells up on hot dish and 
serve at once. Some turn oysters over just before serving. 

Scallops. — As sold in market scallops are generally ready for 
cooking ; if bought in shell, boil and take out the muscular part or 
heart, as that is the only part used in cooking. For Baked'Scal- 
lops, boil tender, drain add some "White Sauce and place in buttered 
baking dish, covering the top with a layer of bread-crumbs and 
brown in oven. 

Stciccd Shrimps. — Put a pint shelled shrimps in stewpan with 
three-fourths pint stock, add thickening of butter and flour, season 
with salt, cayenne and nutmeg to taste and simmer gently three 
minutes.^ Serve garnished with croutons of fried bread. Or stew the 
shrimps in Cream Sauce. For Curried Shrim2-is, -put half pound butter 
in stewpan, add three or four sliced onions and fry golden brown, 
then stir in two tablespoons more butter. Have tablespoon curry- 
powder warmed in oven and mix well with onions ; add quart shell- 
ed shrimps and cook gently five or ten minutes, stirring often tak- 
ing care not to let it get dry, adding more butter if needed. Salt 
to taste and add a little lemon juice and sugar just before serving. 
Serve boiled rice with it in separate dish. Nice for luncheon. For 
SJirimp Pie, to one quart shelled shrimps, add cup each vinegar 
and catsup and two tablespoons butter, season with salt and pepper, 
scald and pour in earthen dish, strew top with bread-crumbs and 
hake twenty minutes. 



SOUPS, 587 



soirps. 



"Once upon a time" soups -were only made now and then among 
American housewives, but now most every dinner table has its 
soup two or three times a week, and many every day, which is as 
it should be, as soup is so nutritious, wholesome, palatable and 
economical that as an article of diet it should rank only second to 
bread, and to make it with flavors properly commingled, is an art 
which all should master; it requires study and practice, but it ia 
surprising from what a scant allotment of material a delicate and 
appetizing dish may be produced, and there are enough scraps of 
bones, cooked and uncooked meats, trimmings of meats and vege- 
tables in every household that would otherwise go to waste, to sup- 
ply a nutritious soup for ever}' day in the year, with only a slight 
expense for additional material. The best basis for soup is lean un- 
cooked meat, apounjl of meat (with the bone) to a quart of water, 
being a generally accepted rule to which may also be added chicken, 
turkey, or mutton bones well broken up ; a mixture of beef, mutton 
and veal, with a bit of ham bone with meat all cut fine, makes a 
a higher flavored soup than any single meat ; the legs of all meats 
are rich in gelatine, an important constituent of soup, although not 
adding any special nutriment to it. It is very essential that the 
meat he perfectly fresh as the least taint, or even if a little old, im- 
pairs the flavor of the soup, and the meat does not want to ''hang," 
for the fresher it is the hetter the soup ; it may be coarse and tough 
and refuse bits and scraps may be used if fresh, all comprising to 
make a dish of soup which will meet with favor from every one. 
There are two classes of soup, a thin or clear one and a thick or 
rich ; the former precedes a heavier course of meats, etc., at dinne? 
and refreshes one, acting as an appetizer for the rest of the meal; 



588 SOUPS. 

while the latter with only a few additional dishes makes a very sat- 
isfactory and easily prepared dinner. Thick soups require more 
seasoning than thin ones and if wanted very delicate may be strained 
and should be about the consistency of cream while clear soups 
should be perfectly transparent. For all soups 2. pinch 0^ sugar 
should always be added. The variety of soups is without limit, and 
by adding "here a little and there a little" one can produce a new 
and distinctive variety whenever wished ; but the usual distinction 
given them is seven divisions ; Clear, Fruit, Mixed, Plain, Thick, 
Vegetable and White Soups, and we give variety of the different 
kinds. Fruit Soups are made of any of the berries or larger fruits 
and are very delicious, served hot in winter or cold (iced) in sum- 
mer ; they are very easily prepared, and when made of the highly 
colored raspberry or strawberry and served, with a spoonful of whip- 
ped cream in each dish, they make an attractive, appetizing and eleg- 
ant first course. 

Seasoning Soups. — White Soups, mace, aromatic seeds, 
white pepper, cream, curry-powder, onion, potato, white turnip, 
celery, parsnip, salsify, rice, macaroni, etc., give the best desired re- 
sults. In general soup many herbs, either fresh or dried, are used 
as seasoning, also different spices such as bay leaves, tarragon, cher- 
vil, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, black pepper, 
essence of anchovy, lemon peel and juice, and orange juice, are all 
used. The latter imparts a finer flavor than the lemon, and the acid is 
much milder. Mushroom Catsup, Harvey's Sauce, Chili Sauce, and 
seasoning of different catsups and sauces may be combined in 
various proportions in an almost endless variety. Then there 
is cress-seed, parsley, common, lemon and orange thyme, 
knotted marjoram, sage, mint, winter savory and celery, or celery- 
seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart 
the delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable, and when used as a 
substitute, its flavor should be corrected by the addition of a pinch 
of sugar. Delicate flavors, such as aromatic spices, any fruit ex- 
tracts, orange and lemon juice, etc., should be added just before 
serving, as their flavors are evaporated by the heat, and some only 
put them in the tureen or individual dishes and pour the soup over 
them. Bay leaf is among soups and meats what vanilla is among 
sweets. Skillfully used it gives that flavor of French cookery that 
is recognized as something different from the ordinary home-made 
article, even by those who cannot tell wherein the difference consists. 
Of course there are many others, just as there are other flavors for 
ice-cream besides vanilla. One large bay leaf will flavor two 
gallons of soup, and only a small piece is wanted in a soup for 
a family dinner. Poached eggs are a nice addition to some 
soups. Poach them just before using, or drop them into the 
boiling soup. To shape them nicely, break one in a but- 



SOUPS. 589 

tered cup and place cups in frying-pan, pouring water around and 
in the^ cups ; when done take out carefully and add to soup. This 
is a nice way to cook them to be served alone, only bake them in 
oven and omit the water from the cup, putting a little salt and pep- 
per on top of egg ; bake three minutes and serve at once in the 
cups ; or two or three eg.gs, well-beaten and added just before pour- 
ing in tureen, make a nice thickening. Cayenne pepper or a bit of 
red pepper pod, is considered an improvement in soup, but must 
be cautiously used. Forcemeat Balls, and Croutons, dice of fried 
or toasted bread, are also used. If soup is salted too highly, add a 
teaspoon sugar and a tablespoon vinegar, and it will help modify it. 

Soup Stock. — This is to soup what yeast is to bread and al-though 
many soups are made as above, without any stock, yet when one has 
learned the art of making the latter she will always find herself 
ready to prepare a dish of delicious soup at almost a minutes' warn- 
ing, aud the mystery which seems to surround the simple word of 
"stock" will be unravelled with her first attempt. To make a Plain 
Stock, take in proportion of one pound meat and bones to one quart 
cold water, unless it is to be boiling seven or nine hours making a 
Jelly Stock, vihen. Si^^ a little more water. It is better to cut the 
meat from the bones, cutting it in small pieces and breaking the 
bones fine, some indeed believe in crushing them almost to a pow- 
der and when so treated a little water must be added as they are be- 
ing crushed, and they must then be placed in a sack. But simply 
breaking them, or r.ither having the butcher do it, is all that is 
necessary, as that allows the quicker freeing of the gelatine of which 
the bones are chiefly composed, two ounces of them containing as 
much gelatine as a pound of meat ; so that when equal portions 
bones and meat are taken, the stock when cold will be a jelly, but if 
only meat is used and but little bone the stock will be liquid. Stock 
made only of bones lacks in flavor as they do not contain a particle 
of osmazome which is that part of the meat which gives flavor to the 
stock. The flesh of old animals contains more osmazome than that 
of young ones, and dark meats more than white, and make the stock 
more fragrant. By roasting meat the osmazome appears to acquire 
higher properties ; so by putting the remains of roast meats into 
stock a better flavor is obtained. There is also contained in the 
meat, fibres, fat, and albumen ; the fibres are inseparable and con- 
stitute almost all that remains of the meat after it has undergone 
a long boiling ; most of the fat dissolves by cooking and the albu- 
men is of the nature of the white of eggs ; it can be dissolved only 
in cold or tepid water, and coagulates when it is put in water not 
quite at the boiling point. From this property in albumen, it is 
evident that if the meat is put into hot or boiling water or the water 
is made to boil up quickly afterward, the albumen, in both cases, 
hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it remains 
in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from 



590 SOUPS. 

dissolving ; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be obtained. 
It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the 
meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the 
piece, as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that de- 
gree of heat which congeals it before entirely dissolving it, for this 
reason the meat is better cut in small pieces. 

The meat must be fresh as possible (the same as for soup) to 
obtain finest flavored stock, and should be cooked from three to 
eight hours ; the shorter time making a Liquid Stock the latter a 
Jelly Stock. Cook very slowly, letting it heat gradually as tho 
soaking of the meat in the cold water while it is being heated ex- 
tracts the juice better and the latter mingles more perfectly and so 
gives a finer flavor, and for that reason, letting the meat stand an 
hour or so in the kettle of water before placing it on stove is recom- 
mended by some. The proportion of salt used in making stock is 
about one tablespoon, not more, to a gallon of water, being used 
for the purpose of separating the blood and slime from the meat ; 
the latter will rise just as boiling commences, in the form of scum 
and should be removed immediately as the agitation of the water 
breaks it, and it will mingle speedily with the stock and make the 
latter cloudy ; a dash of cold water added to kettle just as stock 
boils will assist the scum to rise, skim often, set back and let stock 
boil gently on one side or in one place, and not all over ; "the pot 
should smile, not laugh," is a trite but true saying as rapid boiling 
hardens the fibre of the meat and the savory flavor escapes with the 
steam ; the pimmering also assists in clarifying and if gently cooked, 
stock will often be quite clear after straining. As regards time oi 
cooking^ if prepared and m.ade as above the juices, etc., will be well 
extracted in two or three hours and the flavor is injured by too 
much cooking. If a Jelly Stock is wished cook the seven or nine 
hours. When any stock is done, strain carefully through a clean 
towel folded several times, and laid in a colander set over a stone 
crock or jar; never allow it to stand and cool in pot in which it 
was cooked, but always strain in the crock as directed. Do not 
squeeze towel through which it is strained — simply let the stock run 
through it, and let cool without covering, except with a sieve or 
cheese cloth cover — if it were covered with a plate, or any other 
covering which would confine the steam, it would be injured, be- 
cause the steam condensing upon inside of cover would fall back 
into it, and, in warm weather, this might cause it to sour. Let it 
cool quickly as the sooner it is cold the iiner the Havor and the 
longer it will keep. In cold weather it may be kept a week but in 
summer it will need thorough scalding every other day probably ; 
letting it boil a few moments, not simply warming it, as that only 
causes it to sour more quickly. Before stock is first cooled 
some add salt till nicely seasoned, thinking it aids in the preserva- 
tion of the stock. After it has cooled, letting it stand overnight is 



SOUPS. 591 

best, remove the cake of grease that forms on top and then clarify, 
if necessary, as described hereafter ; although as the cake assists in 
excluding the air it is well to let it remain on the stock till some of 
the latter is needed. If stock is wanted shortly after straining, add 
a little cold water and the grease will rise and can be readily skim- 
med off and then reheated. From this can be made all the various 
kinds of soups adding vegetables and flavoring as given in Making 
and Seasoning Soups. Where a Jelly Stock is made it is nice to put 
some in pint self-sealing glass cans, as it can be readily melted by 
placing can in hot water, and then poured in kettle and water, etc., 
added as needed. When the jelly is sliced off for use, after being kept 
in a crock, scrape off any sediment that may be at bottom. In using 
any stock, whatever is added in making the soup, as rice, tapioca, 
vegetables, etc., should first be cooked tender as much boiling injures 
the flavor of the stock and for that reason, the better way in making 
any Vegetable Soup, is to cook the vegetables tender in water,then add 
stock till as rich as wished and flavor and season as preferred. A 
Complex Stock is made of two or more kinds of meat, or fowl cooked 
together, and the flavor may be varied by using in it a little ham, 
anchovy, sausage, or a calf's foot. Sprigs of herbs, and whole spices 
may be used in seasoning, and afterwards strained out, and whole 
vegetables such as onions, turnips, carrots, tomatoes, etc., may be 
added when making stock after it has been skimmed, and cooked 
with it, skimming out before straining ; but they cause it to sour 
much more quickly and unless to be used soon are not advisable 
Turnips should certainly be omitted in summer as they will cause 
sourness quicker than any other vegetable. White Stock is made 
as Plain Stock using veal, poultry or any light meats. As some 
make with vegetables we give a recipe or two. Fish Stock for 
soup is made in the same manner as that of meat ; a good rule be- 
ing two pounds of beef or veal, or if plenty of fish om.it the meat, 
any kinds of trimmings of White fish, cut up, when preparing them 
for table ; put in two quarts cold water, skim and add two onions, 
bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, and rind of half a lemon ; simmer 
two hours, strain and finish as any stock. When a richer stock is 
wanted fry the vegetables and fish before adding the water. Fish 
Stock sours much more quickly than any other stock, so do not 
make long before wanted. Ironing and baking day is the best 
time for making all stock and in making a Complex Stock the 
Kitchen Queen may use any combination of meats, bones, etc., at 
command and with care, will have the foundation of a savory dish 
with which to tempt the appetites of her subjects, furnishing them 
with something in which every particle of nourishment in the in- 
gredients used has been extracted ; and they are at once refreshed 
almost as soon as one who depends upon his glass of wine as a 
stimulus. For Ecomonical Stock, make of steak or roast beef bones 



592 SOUPS. 

with the meat on them, after cooking, adding a little piece of fresh 
meat, or none at all, and allowing it to simmer at least five hours ; 
strain, remove all fat the next day, and it will be ready for use. Or 
to a soup bone add any trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, roast 
beef bones, an onion stuck with eight or ten cloves, a turnip, two 
carrots, tablespoon salt, bunch of herbs as given in Meats, teaspoon 
sugar and cold water in proportion given. Let simmer gently and 
strain and finish as directed. For a Medium StockidX<.e four pounds 
shin of beef or four of knuckle of veal or two pounds each with 
trimmings of poultry, etc., and quarter pound lean bacon or ham, 
with vegetables as above, adding half dozen stalks of celery, and a 
tomato or two gives a delicious flavor. Make as above or cut up 
meat and bacon or ham into two-inch squares ; rub two tablespoons 
butter on bottom of kettle, add meat and other ingredients with 
half pint cold water ; cover and cook till the bottom has become 
lined with a pale jelly-like substance ; then add four quarts cold 
water, skim as needed and simmer gently four or five hours and fin- 
ish as above. For a Rich Stock take four pounds each shin of 
beef and knuckle of veal, half pound lean ham or a ham bone and a 
calf's foot, with the vegetables given above, or not, as wished. For 
a White Stocky cut up five pounds shin of veal and one chicken, 
put in pot with the bone and a gallon and a half water. Some fry 
the meat in the pot with a little butter fifteen or twenty minutes 
before adding water. Skim as directed, then simmer two or three 
hours, add three stalks celery, one onion, white turnip, blade mace 
and any other vegetables wished that are given in the list used in 
White Stock or Soup. The chicken can be omitted, but veal, 
chicken, fish, oysters, etc., either singly or two or more combined 
always form the basis of above. 

Clarifying Stock. — To clarify a gallon of stock, take whites 
and shells of two or three eggs with tablespoon cold water to 
each egg ; break up shells and beat with the whites and cold water, 
place in saucepan, pour the cold stock upon them, set over fire, and 
let slowly reach boiling point, stirring it four or five times to loosen 
the egg from the bottom ; as it boils the egg will harden and rise to 
surface in a thick scum. When stock appears quite clear under the 
scum pour it very gently into a folded towel laid in a colander, 
which must be set over a large bowl, and allow it to run through 
the towel without squeezing it. This clarified stock is also called 
Clear Soup or Consomme. 

Almond Soup. — Boil four pounds beef, or veal, and half a neck 
of mutton, gently in water to cover till stock is strong and meat very 
tender; strain, and set it on fire, adding ingredients in proportion 
of half pound vermicelli, four blades mace, and six cloves, to two 
quarts stock. Let it boil till it has the flavor of the spices. Have 
yeady half pound almonds, blanched and pounded very fine, yolks 



SOUPS. 593 

of six eggs boiled hard ; mixing the almonds, whilst pounding, with 
a little of the soup, lest the former should grow oily ; pound them 
till they are a mere pulp, and keep adding to them, by degrees, a 
little soup until they are thoroughly mixed together. Let soup be 
cool while adding above and stir till perfectly smooth. Just before 
serving add gill thick cream. Or take a quart of jellied White 
Stock ; let heat and add to it water if needed, and a pint of cream made 
hot in custard kettle flavored with rind of a lemon. Add the almonds 
and a thickening of two tablespoons butter and three of jflour, with a 
seasoning of salt and pepper and a little mace. Let cook twenty 
minutes, and serve. 

Apple Soup. — Peel, quarter and core about two pounds good 
cooking apples and stew gently in three quarts stock till tender ; 
rub all through a puree sieve, add six cloves, white pepper, cayenne 
and ginger to taste, boil up once and serve. Or slice half dozen 
pared apples and cook till tender in a very little water adding tea- 
cup sugar and juice of one lemon ; take off and let cool. Slice 
twelve apples and put into two quarts water with third of a pound 
each currants and seeded raisins and cook till soft, add cup sugar 
and strain through a cloth or puree sieve ; pour this over the cooked 
sliced apples, adding juice of another lemon, if wished, and serve 
when cold, with a piece of ice in each dish. Or With Dried Apples^ 
to three quarts water add cup prunes or part raisins ; cook an hour, 
add cup dried apples, soaked if necessary, two tablespoons sago and 
a small stick cinnamon ; when apples are tender, in about an hour, 
add juice of one lemon, or slices of a pared lemon ; sweeten to taste 
and serve hot in winter or iced in summer. Corn-starch may be 
used instead of the sago, adding it just before serving; if too thick 
add water till consistency of good cream. Can be made same with 
fresh apples, and is a delicious soup with either. 

Amber Soup. — Slice a medium-sized onion, carrot and half a 
white turnip and fry with some ham or salt pork, cut in dice, fif- 
teen minutes ; put in soup kettle, add a bunch of sweet herbs and a 
gallon of any stock made without vegetables. Cook three-quarters 
of an hour, strain, clarify, reheat, add teaspoon Caramel, season to 
taste and serve. 

Asparagus Soup. — Boil a pint and a half split pease two hours, rub 
through sieve and add cup stock, stew half pint asparagus, cut 
small, in three quarts water with four young onions, a head of let- 
tuce, shredded, and half head cut celety till tender, then put all 
together, stew a few minutes, add half pint cream and littleSpinach 
Coloring and serve. Green Pease may be used same way. 

Barley Soup. — Put into a pot two pounds shin of beef, quarter 
pound pearled barley, large bunch parsley, four onions, six pota- 
toes, salt and pepper to taste and four quarts water. Simmer gently 
four hours, rul) through sieve, boil up once and serve. For Cream 
of Barley Soup, put a cup pearled barley with an onion and small 
38 



594 SOUPS. 

piece each of mace and cinnamon in three pints of chicken 
stock and cook slowly for four or five hours ; rub through a sieve 
and add one and a half pints of boiling cream or milk. 

Bouillon. — Put a three or four pound soup bone, selecting one 
with plenty of meat, in four quarts of cold Avater with level table- 
spoon salt ; let come to a boil, skim thoroughly ; then add one whole 
medium-sized turnip and onion pared, with latter stuck with half 
dozen cloves ; a scraped carrot and a Bunch of Herbs as given in 
meats ; or it may be composed of parsley, small stalk of celery, half a 
bay leaf, blade mace and five pepper-corns (if pepper is used) ; or the 
bunch may be omitted entirely, or use only parsley. But all these 
little seasonings add greatly to the flavor and when one becomes ac- 
customed to keep them on hand, the expense and extra trouble are 
comparatively nothing. Let cook three hours, if cooked too long 
it will not be so clear ; and the bone can be recooked, so it is fully 
as economical, and secures better results. Strain and set away, 
without covering, excepting with a thin cloth. When wanted for 
use remove fat, heat and strain ; then reheat. This second strain 
ing generally prevents necessity of clarifying, but if cloudy, clarify 
as directed. This gives Plain Bouillon to which add Caramel till of 
color desired, as the more added the deeper the shade, but too high 
a flavor does not want to be given. When making it just for the 
Bouillon, for three pints of latter put tablespoon sugar in frying pan 
and let brown, stirring all the time. Then add gradually cup of 
the bouillon or water, as if added all at once it would boil over ; 
cook a few moments, and add to kettle ; if any sugar is left in pan 
add a little more bouillon, cook a moment or two and add. Serve 
very hot in bouillon cups. For Philadelphia Bouillon add to the 
6oup bone a chicken, a pound of shin of veal and a small slice ham ; 
if the meat is cut from bone, in order to break the latter up, place 
bones in kettle first then put the meat on them, fry the whole onion 
in little ham fat add with other ingredients and cook four hours. 
True Bouillon is served as above for company dinners, receptions, 
and evening parties, and should be used at many a home dinner ; 
but additions may be made to it and one of the nicest is the Sweed- 
ish Dumplings., rub tablespoon butter with two (heaping) of flour, 
smoothly in saucepan over the fire, add pinch salt, pint cream, or 
pint cream and milk, and stir till thick as mush, add two teaspoons 
sugar, and tablespoon grated almonds or cocoa-nut ; remove from 
stove and add beaten yolks of two eggs. After dishing bouillon 
place a spoonful or two in each cup ; or a slice of lemon or yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg and serve. Or sago, tapioca, macaroni, or vermi- 
celli may be added, cooking them first, or a poached egg to each 
cup. Some like the addition of a few cooked tomatoes, which give 
a delicious flavor. Bouillon will keep for several days in cool 
weather, so one can vary the soup each day. 



Soups. ^ 595 

Cauliflower Soup. — Boil the cauliflowers, picked in small pieces, 
in salted water about half an hour ; wash half of it, and put that 
in three pints White Stock or the clear broth from cooking an old 
chicken, in either of which a tablespoon of minced onion has been 
cooked fifteen minutes ; add pint of boiled rich milk, season with 
white pepper, and a blade of mace, add a little thickening if neces- 
sary ; then add tablespoon butter and the whole pieces of cauli- 
floAver with a tablespoon minced parsley. Boil up once and serve. 
About a cup of cauliflower is needed and that left from a meal may 
be used. Some add a speck of cayenne. 

Celery Soup. — Wash and scrape a head of celery well cut into 
small pieces, put in pint boiling salted water and cook till very 
soft; chop an onion, boil in quart milk ten minutes and add all to 
celery ; rub through sieve, boil again, add tablespoon each butter 
and flour that have been stirred together over fire, and stir until 
smooth and well cooked ; add pepper and salt to taste and serve, 
straining again if not perfectly smooth. Or cut nice stalks celery 
fine and boil in water seasoned with salt, nutmeg and sugar to taste 
till tender, rub through sieve, put pulp in half pint strong stock, 
simmer half an hour, add pint cream, bring to boiling point and 
serve. If a brown soup is wanted omit cream and use all stock, 
adding a little Caramel Coloring. 

Cliicken Soup. — Cut meat of one chicken into small pieces, except 
the breast, and break the bones. Place bones and meat in kettle 
with breast on top and cover with cold water, cook three or four 
hours, skimming well, and remove the breast as soon as tender; 
strain and to three pints stock add three tablespoons cooked rice, 
the breast cut in dice, tablespoon minced parsley, and salt and 
white pepper to taste. Cook fifteen minutes and serve. Some cook 
a half poimd or so of round steak, cut in dice, with chicken and 
bones ; or add three carrots cut up, pint of tomatoes, teacup of lima 
beans, and salt to taste and pinch cayenne pepper, and simmer four 
hours. An hour before serving add pint rich milk ; add thickening 
if needed and serve. An old chicken is best as it gives a richer, 
finer flavor. 

Cocoa-met Soup. — Simmer six ounces grated cocoa-nut one 
hour in two quarts veal stock keeping closely covered ; strain care- 
fully,add gill hot cream, seasoning of salt, white pepper, and a little 
mace if liked, and thicken with three scant tablespoons rice flour, 
stirred smooth in little cold milk ; boil one minute and serve. Wheat 
flour may be used if rice flour is not at hand. 

Corn Soup. — Cook together three pints White Stock and pint 
of grated sweet corn twenty minutes, then add pint each 
of cream and milk with tablespoon butter, little minced 
parsley, and a smooth thickening of flour and water if 



696 SOUPS. 

needed. Season to taste and serve. Or for Meatless Corn Soup, 
grate twelve ears sweet corn, and put cobs into kettle with cold 
water enough to cover, and boil one hour ; then skim out cobs and 
add grated corn, with teacup boiling water, and boil half an hour. 
Add quart of milk, or part cream and milk, salt and pepper, and 
boil for ten minutes. Put in piece of batter size of an egg, set ket- 
tle on back of stove and add three well-beaten eggs, stir rapidly for 
live minutes, and serve immediately with croutons, or with crackers. 
Some add Buckeye Dumplings, boil fifteen minutes and serve. For 
Corn Chowder., cut half a pound of pork in slices, and fry brown, 
then take up, and fry two medium-sized onions in the fat. Put 
quart sliced potatoes and three pints grated or cut corn into kettle 
in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, pepper and flour, using 
saltspoon pepper, two tablespoons salt and five of flour. Strain 
onions and fat over vegetables, and with a spoon press the juice 
through strainer ; then slowly pour three pints boiling water through 
strainer, rubbing as much onion through as possible. Cover kettle, 
and boil gently half an hour. Mix two tablespoons of corn-starch 
with a little milk, and when perfectly smooth, add quart rich milk. 
Stir this into the boiling chowder. Taste to see if seasoned enough, 
and if not, add more pepper and salt. Then add half dozen crack- 
ers, split, buttered and dipped for a minute in cold water. Put on 
cover, boil up once, and serve . 

Cream Soup. — Stir over the fire two tablespoons butter and 
three of flour in saucepan till smooth, add boiled milk, a half cup at 
a time, till three pints have been used, half milk and water may be 
used, or for a richer soup, use half cream and milk ; season with 
white pepper, salt, and pinch nutmeg. Serve with croutons added 
a moment before dishing. For Cream of Beets add a puree of beets 
made by rubbing well-cooked beets through a fine sieve with a po- 
tato masher. Cream of Spinach, Asparagus, Celery, Pease, etc., 
are made in same way. The quantity of pulp can be varied to suit 
the taste. For Cream of Salmon, rub through puree sieve three- 
quarters of a pint boiled Salmon, canned maybe used without cook- 
ing, and add as above. 

Cucumber Soup. — Pare one large cucumber, quarter and take 
out seeds ; cut it in thin slices, put them on plate with little salt, to 
draw water from them ; drain, and put in saucepan, with butter. 
When warmed through, without being browned, pour quart stock 
on them. Add a little sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and boil forty 
minutes. Mix well-beaten yolks of two eggs with gill cream, which 
add just before serving. 

Flemish Soup. — Slice five onions, ten stalks celery, and ten 
medium-sized potatoes, and put them with three tablespoons butter 
and half pint water in stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then add 



' . . . SOUPS. . 597 

two quarts Plain Stock and cook gently till potatoes are done. Rub 
all through a sieve, add half pint boiled cream and serve at once. 

Fruit Soup. — This soup is a general favorite and as it is so very 
easily made one with little experience can attempt it. There are 
two divisions the clear and the thick, the latter being made by using 
the pulp of the fruit. Take any fresh fruit, pie-plant, strawberries, 
gooseberries, currants, cherries, wild plums, raspberries, etc., and 
add water and cook till all juice is extracted; for a clear soup, strain 
and take amount of juice wished, adding more water, if necessary, 
till a pleasant flavor, boil, skim, and to three pints liquid add table- 
spoon corn-starch mixed smooth with a little water, sweeten to taste, 
boil a moment and serve cold in summer, with a lump of ice and 
tablespoon sweetened whipped cream in each dish, or bouillon cup, 
and hot in winter, omitting cream. Part currants and raspberries 
may be used together, or any harmonious combination of fruit or 
the juices; as canned juice can be used and any of the Shrubs are 
especially delicious. For Raspberry Soup, add water to Raspberry 
Shrub till of a pleasant flavor, then finish as above without sweet- 
ening. The vinegar already used in the shrub imparts just enough 
of the acid flavor wished. When using any fresh fruit or canned 
juice, a little lemon or currant juice may be added to the sweeter 
fruits, adding the lemon just before removing soup from fire, and a 
little orange juice to Stravyberry Soup made as above gives a richer 
flavor. A very elaborate recipe is to pick and wash two quarts 
strawberries and rub, without cooking, through a puree sieve add- 
ing water to the pulp till consistency of cream, sweeten to taste and 
add gill orange, and third of a gill lemon juice. When cold, ice and 
serve with a few whole berries, Avhich have been standing in sugar 
an hour or two, and a spoonful of whipped cream in each dish. 
For Cherry Soup, cooh cherries in water, sweeten to taste, flavor 
with teaspoon vanilla and serve hot, without straining if wished. 
A richer soup is made by stoning half peck cherries, boil till soft in 
water with a stick cinnamon and sugar ; add water till of a pleasant 
flavor, rub through a puree sieve, reserving a few of them whole ; 
crack half the stones, take out kernels, boil them, adding litle sugar, 
rub through sieve or pound to a paste and add to soup and flavor 
as in second recipe of Strawberry Soup. Let cool and serve iced 
with some of the reserved whole cherries in each dish. Make 
Apricot Soup in same way cutting half of apricots in slices, sprink- 
ling with sugar and letting stand while the other half is cooking. 
Add apricot kernel paste as above, flavoring with pineapple juice, 
add reserved slices and serve iced. Blackberry Soup is made as 
Raspberry, and one can always make a delicious soup from any 
fruit, juice or shrub at command and should not fail to try it, as it 
makes such a refreshing first course at dinner in summer ; or is 
delicious served a la bouillon for luncheon or an evening company. 
Croutons are nice added to fruit soups just before serving if to be 



598 SOUPS. 

Onion Soup. — Slice thin five or six medium-sized onions and 
fry brown in tablespoon butter, add two or three tablespoons flour, or 
rice flour makes it more delicate, and when latter is browned add 
slowly pint and a half boiling water, and a bunch of sweet herbs as 
given in Bouillon ; let boil up and then place on back of stove and 
simmer slowly an hour and a half. Then add three pints boiling 
milk or part cream, and four tablespoons mashed potato, mixed 
with a little milk or cream till smooth and rather thin. Let boil 
few minutes. Season to taste, adding teaspoon sugar and half pint 
of Croutons and serve hot. 

Oyster Soxip. — Put one quart stock, White Stock is nicest, in 
kettle, or water may be used ; add oyster liquor from quart of oys- 
ters, having drained latter in colander, pouring over them a half 
pint of the hot stock ; skim if necessary, put in oysters, let just come 
to a boil, set on back of range, stir in half cup crushed oyster crack- 
ers, three tablespoons butter, salt and white pepper to taste, and 
then quart milk, which has been boiled in custard kettle ; or the 
milk may be placed in tureen and the soup poured over. Some 
sprinkle a little minced parsley over just before scalding. If wished 
very nice, the oysters may be first scalded in their liquor, taken out 
and bearded and placed in tureen. To a pint of stock add the 
beards and strained liquor and simmer half an hour ; strain, add 
three pints of stock, let come to boiling point, season as above, add 
half pint boiling cream, pour over oysters and serve at once. By 
cooking the beards a stronger flavor is procured and the oysters are 
more delicate without them. For Mock Oyster Soup., take one 
teacup codfish, cut in half-inch squares. Freshen by covering with 
cold water, let it come to a boil, then pour off" and add cup water, 
quart sweet milk, cup sweet cream, tablespoon corn-starch, stirred 
smooth in a little cold milk, lump of butter size of an egg, pepper, 
and salt to taste. Serve with crackers or toast. 

Pea Soup. — Cook pint of peas till tender in two quarts boiling 
water, add two tablespoons butter, salt, white pepper and half 
pint cream or rich milk, tablespoon minced parsley and teaspoon 
sugar with a little thickening of corn-starch. Place on back of 
stove and add beaten yolks of one or two eggs and serve. With 
Carrots^ add with the pease, half pint carrots cut in thin slices, as 
for Julienne Soup, and a pint more water and finish as above. 
With Spinach, add to pease one pint spinach prepared as for cook- 
ing ; or for a Triple Soup, use all three vegetables with three 
quarts water and finish as above. To make richer use Plain 
Bouillon instead of the water. With Onions, boil pint shelled 
pease tender, with a bunch parsley and two 3''0ung onions in a very 
little water ; rub through sieve and add two quarts any stock ; let it 
come just to boiling point and serv?, a? if boiled after the puree is 
added it is not of as fine color, 



SOUPS. 599 

Tomato Soup. — Clear tomato soup should be as bright as wine, 
not highly colored or highly flavored, but thoroughly good, and 
should never be made until really wanted, as freshness of flavor is 
a matter of first importance. Prepare stock from leg of beef; that 
from bones and odd pieces will not do for this soup ; it must be 
strong and of a clear golden-brown color and without a particle of 
grease ; such as may be secured by stewing about six pounds of leg 
of beef slowly for one or two hours in three quarts of water ; then 
pour off the stock, let stand till cold and the meat may be put on 
again to make a second stock for other purposes. To about three 
pints of this stock add from eight to twelve ripe tomatoes, accord- 
ing to size, cut in slices, or canned tomatoes may be used, one med- 
ium-sized onion, sliced, and a few slices of carrot and turnip ; boil 
half an hour and then strain off", taking care not to press any of the 
vegetables, v/hich must not be over-cooked. To the clear soup add 
tablespoon of sugar and vinegar, one of Worcester sauce, and a lit- 
tle cayenne. If soup is not clear and bright, strain it through a 
folded towel in colander. With Rice, to two quarts stock add pint 
fresh or canned tomatoes, and cup boiled rice. Cook slowly half 
an hour and season to taste. Other vegetables may first be added, 
cooking an hour, then adding as above. 

Tegetable ^6>wjo,— Slice cabbage, carrots, turnips, parsnips, and 
cook as above, always remembering to have water or stock boiling in 
which vegetables are placed ; when tender add stewed tomatoes rubbed 
through a sieve or r;iot as wished ; whenever tomatoes are used in any 
soup it is a very great improvement to first stew them either fresh or 
canned, seasoning with butter, salt and pepper ; this makes a little 
more trouble but the soup is very much finer flavored. When done, 
if soup is wished richer add any stock on hand till flavored as 
wished, boil up once and serve. Cooking the vegetables tender in 
water is more economical than using stock as in adding latter at 
last, only a small quantity need be used to produce required flavor; 
or recooking a soup bone adding vegetables as soon as it boils makes 
a nice soup. 

Balls for Soup.— There are many different articles served in 
soup besides those given, such as fancy letters, stars, triangles, etc., 
which may be purchased, and also the "French Paste which comes in 
squares in little boxes. This is used more for coloring and flavor- 
ing ; place in tureen and pour soup over it, stirring as soup is served. 
Among the different balls used are the Fffff Balls, mix raw egg 
with just enough flour or corn-starch to make into round balls, then 
drop into soup and boil ten minutes. A little milk, a teaspoon to 
one egg, is an improvement ; also a sprinkle of salt. Or for two 
quarts soup make balls by boiling one egg hard ; put yolk of it in 
a bowl, pound to a paste and break in a raw egg yolk, add a dust 
cayenne pepper, tablespoon salad oil, saltspoon salt, and flour to 



600 SOUPS. 

roll into balls with the hands about a teaspoon. Put dry flour on 
both hands, use saltspoon of mixture, or make a long roll and cut 
off ends and make into balls ; have deep saucepan half full of boil- 
ing water, put in egg balls and let them boil till they come to top, 
then take out with strainer, put in soup when ready to serve, or some 
cook them in soup. They are also nice served with other dishes ; or 
to yolks of three eggs use one raw yolk and omit the salad oil. 
Some use the raw white of the egg rather than yolk and also care- 
fully fry brown in butter or any nice fat ; then place in tureen and 
pour over the soup. For Farina Balls^ boil quart milk in custard 
kettle, add salt and tablespoon butter, and thicken with farina. 
Cook well, and when cold stir one whole egg and one yolk through 
the mixture. Make into balls or shape with spoon, and drop in the 
boiling soup just before serving. For Force-meat Balls, add to 
pound chopped beef one egg, a small lump butter, a cup or less of 
bread-crumbs ; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with the 
water from stewed meat ; make in balls and fry brown ; or take slices 
of raw veal and a little salt pork, and chop very fine with a slice of 
wheat bread. Season highly with pepper, salt, tomato catsup, and 
chopped lemon peel, moisten with two well-beaten eggs, and roll 
into balls as large as a walnut, with floured hands. Fry the balls 
in butter to a dark brown, and let them cool ; turn into the soup and 
boil about ten minutes. Or for Veal Balls take half pint each 
minced cooked veal and bread-crumbs with half gill chopped suet 
seasoned with salt, pepper and any sweet herbs liked. Add beaten 
egg sufficient to make into balls and fry brown. These are used for 
the richer soups such as Calf's-head, etc. For Force-meat Balls for 
Fish Soups, pick meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it, 
with the soft parts, in a bowl ; add six stalks boiled celery, the yolk 
of a hard-boiled egg, salt, cayenne and little mace, and gill or more 
of bread-crumbs. Continue pounding till the whole is well mixed ; 
melt two tablespoons butter and add with two well-beaten eggs ; 
make into balls about an inch in diameter, and fry brown. Place 
in tureen, add soup and serve. Some add half an anchovy, pounded. 
For German Balls, mix together butter and cracker-crumbs into a 
firm round ball and drop into soup a short time before serving. 
These are especially nice for Chicken Soup. Putting slices of 
lemon and hard-boiled eggs in tureen and adding soup makes a 
dainty dish, and where the eggs are not sliced, but simply the whole 
boiled yolk used it is certainly "fit to set before the king." 

Croutons. — These are different shapes of bread, without crust, 
cut and fried or toasted. For Soups, cut in dice about third of an 
inch square or even less and fry in butter in frying-pan or in a ket- 
tle of smoking-hot fat like fritters till a golden brown, drain and add 
to tureen or put a spoonful in each dish and add soup. Some 
simply toast the bread, then cut it ; or butter or not as wished, cat 
and toast in oven, serving as above. Crackers crisped in oven are 



SOUPS. 601 

nice for Oyster soup. Fvr Entrees, cut bread in heart-shaped 
pieces about two inches loRg and half an inch thick and fry or toast 
as above. For Vegetables^ cut in triangular pieces one and a half 
inches long, same thickness and fry as above. 

Dumplings. — These are a nice addition to soups and are made 
in many ways, but however made, a little cold water should be added 
to soup to stop the boiling just before they are put in (there are one 
or two exceptions) and then the soup must not cease boiling for at 
least ten or fifteen- minutes when they will be done; it is also very 
important the cover fits closely that steam does not escape. For 
Buckeye Dumplings, take half pint sweet milk, two eggs, and 
enough flour to make stiff batter ; drop off spoon into the soup and 
cook ten minutes. For Marrow Dumplings, which are very deli- 
cate and can be varied in seasoning to suit any soup, beat one 
ounce uncooked marrow and tablespoon butter to a cream; add two 
well-beaten eggs and half pint bread-crumbs which should previously 
well be soaked in boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. 
When well mixed add teaspoon each minced parsley and onion with 
salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, omitting the minced onions 
where the flavor is very much disliked, and form the mixture into 
small round dumplings. Drop these into boiling soup and let them 
simmer for about half an hour. Serve in soup and they are also very 
nice with roast meats or salad. Grated lemon peel and mace make a 
nice seasoning and they are ready to serve as soon as they rise to sur- 
face ; butter may be omitted if wished. For Suet Dumplings, take 
pint and a half flour, two thirds of a pint beef suet, half teaspoon 
baking powder, saltspoon salt, half pint of cold water. Mix in a 
large bowl, the suet, finely chopped, and flour ; add to this the bak- 
ing powder and salt and knead into a dry dough with the water. 
Divide this dough in small pieces, roll each piece in a little ball and 
throw them one by one into the boiling soup twenty minutes before 
serving. The dropping of balls cools the boiling soup and care 
should therefore be taken to wait an instant between the putting in 
of each one that the liquid may boil up, otherwise the balls will 
burst apart. This is one of the exceptions to general rule. For 
Sussex Dumplings, mix quart flour with half pint water and little 
salt making a smooth paste ; form into balls and drop in soup. For 
Quick Dum^plings, take pint of flour, measured before sifting ; half 
teaspoon soda, teaspoon crearr tartar, one of sugar and half of salt, 
and mix thoroughly, sifting once or twice, and a teacup milk. 
Sprinkle a little flour on board. Turn the dough (which should 
have been stirred into a smooth ball with a spoon) on it, roll half 
inch thick, cut into small cakes, and cook ten minutes, and when 
these are added to soup have it boiling. Light biscuit dough makes 
nice dumplings and when used roll thin, cut and roll into balls and 
finish as directed, although some prefer to steam them and then 
place in tureen and pour soup over them. 



502 VEGETABLES. 



VEG-ETABLES. 



All vegetables are better cooked in soft water, provided ft is 
clean and pure ; if hard water is used, put in small pinch of soda. 
The water should be freshly drawn, and should only be put over 
fire in time to reach the hoiling point before the hour for putting in 
vegetables, as standing and long boiling frees the gases and renders 
the water insipid. The fresher all vegetables are, the more whole- 
some. After being washed thoroughly, put them in the hoiling 
water using only enough to cook them, as when much is to be 
drained off some of the sweetness of the vegetables is lost. If they 
are fresh they will not need to be placed in cold water before cook- 
ing ; but if not so, then let stand half an hour in it, but some of the 
flavor is thereby lost. Keep water boiling all the time, and if more 
has to be added, let it be boiling ; do not cook too long, only till 
tender, as too long cooking is very injurious. 
This is true of all vegetables ; they must be thor- 
oughly done, that is cooked tender, one can eas- 
ily test them, and should then be served at once. 
Where there is danger from burning, the kettle 
illustrated is of great service. It is very nice for 
spinach, etc., where it is cooked without water. 
While all are best fresh, green corn and pease Vegetable Ketue. 
must be so to be in their prime. The proportion of salt in cooking 
vegetables is a heaping tablespoon to every gallon of water, added 
when half done ; after vegetables are aided, press down with a 
wooden spoon, skim when necessary, and for green vegetables, such 
as asparagus, pease, beans, etc., do not put cover on the kettle or 
saucepan. If one is very particular about preserving their color ; 
when done, drain and placein cold salted water a moment or two or till 




VEGETABLES. 



603 



ready to use, then reheat, season and serve. Sometimes pease, beans, 
etc., do not boil easily and it has usually been imputed to the cold- 
ness of the season, or the rains. This peculiar notion is erroneous. 
The difficulty of boiling them soft arises from an excess of gypsum 
imbibed during their growth. To correct this, throw a small quant- 
ity of carbonate of soda (common baking soda) in the pot with the 
vegetables. For keeping vegetables fresh for present use, see Keep- 
ing Fruits and Vegetables. Never split onions, turnips and carrots, 
but slice them in rings cut across the fiber, as they thus cook tender 
much quicker. If the home garden furnishes the supply of pease, 
spinach, green beans, asparagus, etc., pick them in the morning 
early, when the dew is on, and put them in a clean cool place, near 
ice if possible. A piece of red pepper the size of finger nail, dropped 
into meat or vegetables when firstbegiuning to cook, will aid greatly 
in killing the unpleasant odor. Remember this for boiled cabbage, 
green beans, onions, mutton and chicken. All vegetables should 
be thoroughly cooked, and require a longer time late in their season. 
Cabbage, potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions and beets are 
injured for some by being boiled with fresh meat, and they also in- 
jure the flavor of the meat. In 
cutting vegetables in fancy shapes 
a set of vegetable cutters that 
come nicely packed in a box are 
very convenient. -The "regula- 
vegetabie Cutters. tlou" grccus such as dandelious, 

spinach, sorrel, horseradish and beet tops, mustard, borage, chicory, 
and corn salad are sometimes cooked alone and sometimes with 
salt pork as preferred. In preparing them, first wash them leaf by 
leaf in warm water, rather more than tepid, having a dish of cold 
water to place them in immediately. The warm water more cer- 
tainly cleans the leaf and does not destroy the crispness if they are 
placed at once in cold water with a little salt in it. But whether 
washed in warm water or cold water, take them leaf by leaf, break- 
ing the heads ofi", not cutting them, and they will often need two or 
three waters as they are sometimes quite sandy. To guard against 
insects some put a little salt, tablespoon to a quart, in the water in 
which they are washed, using cold water for this. Steaming is a 
very easy and satisfactory way in which to cook most vegetables, 
especially »those of a watery nature and many prefer it to boiling. 




604 - VEGETABLES. 

The patent steamers are very convenient as two or more vegetables 
can be steamed at once without the mingling of flavors. These are 
Bome of the general suggestions for cooking vegetables, but as there 
are so many individual ones, each recipe will be a law unto itself. 



Artichokes. — There are two varieties ; the Jerusalem, resem- 
bling potatoes, which scrape, placing at once in cold, salted water 
to which a half gill vinegar has been added; when ready to cook 
in boiling water do not quite cover and boil till tender, about half an 
hour, salting just before they are done. Drain and pour over a 
sauce made by browning in frying pan three tablespoons butter and 
one of flour, adding half pint vinegar, a little salt, speck cayenne, 
half teaspoon sugar and boiling up once. For the Cardoon Arti- 
choke in which the tops are what are used, wash artichokes well in 
several waters ; see that no insects remain about them, and trim 
away leaves at bottom. Cut off" stems and put tops in boiling 
water, to which have been added tablespoon salt and pinch soda. 
Keep saucepan uncovered, and let boil quickly until tender ; ascer- 
tain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, or by trying 
if the leaves can be easily removed, Take them out, let them drain 
for a minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or with a little white 
Sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accompany 
them, This vegetable, unlike any other, is better for being gath- 
ered two or three days ; but they must be well washed and soaked 
previous to dressing. 

Asparagus — In gathering asparagus, never cut it off" but snap 
or break it ; in this way the white, woody part, which no boiling 
can make tender, is left in ground. Cook as Asparagus Toast on 
page 51. For Asparagus Pudding^ boil tender the green tops of 
two bunches of asparagus, let cool and cut up small. Beat together 
four eggs and tablespoon butter ; add three of flour, cup milk, and 
the asparagus, with a seasoning of salt and pepper and some add a 
tablespoon finely minced boiled ham ; put in a well greased mold 
with a top, and cook in a pot of boiling water nearly two hours. 
Turn out on a dish and pour a cup of brown butter over it. Pease 
Pwrfrf-iTijr made same with green pease. ¥ or Asparagus Sauce, cut a 
pint of asparagus in half inch pieces, boil tender, rub through sieve 
and add veal gravy mixed with yolks of eggs and a little salt and 
cayenne. 

Beans. — Put on string beans in boiling water and after cooking 
an hour add a half pound of salt pork and cook three hours ; add 
a little thickening if needed, and serve with Steamed Corn Bread, 
page 30. For Beans, French Style, choose small young beans, strip 
off" ends and stalks, throwing them into cold water, wash and drain 
well, boil in salted boiling water in a large saucepan ; drain, put in a 



VEGETABLES. 605 



a large saucepan ; drain, put in them a clean saucepan and shake over 
the fire until they are quite hot and dry ; add three tablespoons of 
butter, one tablespoon of veal or chicken broth, season with white 
pepper, salt and juice of half a lemon, stir well ; serve. To preserve 
color cook String Beaiis as follows : Take strings off smftll young 
beans, wash cut in slivers by holding knife in diagonal shajDe, placing 
quite a lot of beans in a pile. Cook till tender, drain and place in 
cold salted water till time to use vt^hen heat quickly, with salt, pep- 
per and butter or any nice dressing wished. If for salad do not re- 
heat. For Shelled Beans, boil half an hour in water to cover, and 
dress as in first recipe for String Beans ; or when almost tender 
drain and put in saucepan with cup any stock, small bunch herbs 
and teaspoon sugar ; stew till perfectly tender and then add beaten 
yolk of one egg with gill cream and when hot serve. 

Beets. — Wash, boil and skin white or red beets ; slice and cut in 
small squares to one pint add one pint of milk, two eggs well beaten 
a little salt and pepper ; put in buttered baking dish and bake till 
custard is firm, fifteen or twenty minutes. Beets are especially val- 
uable as an article of food on account of the sugar they contain. 
When they are used for a salad such as the Russian, after skinning 
cut in slices an inch thick, take the small apple corer, cut out the 
cylinder shaped pieces and prepare with the other vegetables. 

Boiled Cabbage. — Wash, take ofi" decayed leaves, cut in rather 
small pieces and put in boiling salted water; do not have kettle 
more than half full of cabbage and keep water boiling rapidly all the 
time till tender, which can be tested by trying the thick part near- 
est the stalk. It will not take over fifteen or twenty minutes for 
new cabbage and about thirty or forty for old. ^ The cause of the 
strong odor from cooking cabbage is from cooking too long, as in 
that case the oil begins to escape from it. The flavor is also injured 
by too long cooking as after vegetables of all kind are tender the 
water begins to penetrate them and they should be served at once. 
Drain and serve by itself or with a Vinegar, Drawn Butter, Cream 
or White Sauce poured over it. Some only cut in halves or quarter 
and tie in netting or thin muslin. For Royal CabbagCy cook in quar- 
ters in boiling salted water with a small pinch soda, for seven min- 
utes, skim out and plo.ce in another saucepan of boiling water ten 
minutes, then skim out into first saucepan with fresh boiling water 
and cook ten minutes or till tender; drain and serve on slices of toast 
clipped in melted butter and over all pour a Cream Dressing. For 
Sviced Cabbage, trim and wash a medium-sized head and shave in rath- 
er thin slices, put in a saucepan heaping tablespoon of cold drippings 
or butter, the same of sugar, half cup vinegar, teaspoon each whole 
cloves, pepper-corns and salt ; put in cabbage, cover with lid and 
cook very slowly for three-quarters of an hour or till tender, on back 



606 VEGETABLES. 



of stove. Every fifteen minutes stir cabbage so as to put uncooked 
parts to the bottom. Serve on a platter with a piece of Braised Meat on 
it, moistening the cabbage with a little of the broth from the cooked 
meat. For Cabbage Pudding^ boil a firm, white cabbage fifteen 
minutes, changing water then for more from the boiling tea-kettle; 
when tender, drain and set aside till perfectly cold ; chop fine, and 
add two beaten eggs, a tablespoon of butter, three of very rich milk 
or cream, pepper and salt. Stir all well together, and bake in a but- 
tered pudding dish until brown ; serve hot. This dish is digestible 
and palatable, much resembling cauliflower. For Brussels Sprouts., 
soak in water a short time, and wash clean, boil in salted water and 
when done, strain and fry in a tablespoon butter, in which has been 
browned a tablespoon flour and a small onion cut fine ; add pepper 
and salt to taste. 

Carrots. — Peel some young carrots all to the same size and shape ; 
parboil in boiling water ; drain, and warm in saucepan with butter, 
a pinch of powdered sugar and little stock ; when boiled, increase 
fire, and cook until sauce is reduced to a glaze. For Carrot Com- 
pote, scrape and slice quarter of an inch thick, stew in water till 
tender, drain, weigh and to each pound carrots allow pound sugar 
and cup cider vinegar; cook all together and flavor with orange 
peel cut very thin, cinnamon and cloves. For Warmed Over Carrots, 
melt in a spider piece of butter half the size of an egg. Slice in boiled 
carrots, and season with butter and salt. Just before taking up add 
half cup of cream or milk, or omit either and serve them nicely 
browned. They are liked by some better than when first cooked. 
Parsnips can be prepared in the same way. 

Baked Caidifloiver. — Parboil five minutes, cut into pieces and 
put into a pie dish ; add a little milk, season with salt, pepper, and 
butter, cover v/ith dry gratfed cheese, and bake. For Califlower 
Salad, after boiling, let cool and dress with Mayonnaise or any 
dressing preferred. With Mushrooms, put in a frying-pan, in hot fat 
a few small mushrooms and part of a cauliflower broken into sprigs. 
Sprinkle over them some grated cheese, and baste the whole well 
from time to time with the hot fat. 

Steamed Corn. — Husk and silk carefully; place in steamer; 
sprinkle with salt, and steam one hour and serve placed in a Com 
Doiley, made like the Fritter Doiley (working ears of corn in the 
ends) in the dish, covering with ends. For Fried Corn, cut corn 
from cob ; put in frying-pan with tablespoon butter, cover and 
cook twenty-five minutes, stirring occasionally, but adding 
no water. The steam will cook it, if kept covered. Add salt, 
pepper and a cup of cream when done. For Corn Omelet, 
take one dozen ears of corn, three eggs, salt to taste ; boil the 
corn, cut it from the cob, mix with the eggs, and make 



VEGETABLES. 607 



in small omelets and fry. For Corn Pie, cut corn from two ears of 
boiled corn; mix gill of milk, gradually, with tablespoon flour 
Beat yolk and white of one egg separately, and add with tablespoon 
butter and teaspoon sugar to the flour and milk. Season and bake 
twenty-five minutes in a deep pie plate. Nice way in which to warm 
over corn left from dinner. For Hidled Corn, when prepared as 
directed in Winter Vegetables, or as may be bought, cook till ten- 
der, adding a little water if needed, season with salt and a table- 
spoon or two of cream added is an addition. Serve with cream and 
sugar, or eat as a vegetable with butter. It is delicious warmed over 
in a little butter, browning nicely. 

Dandelions. — After parboiling with soda, boil with a piece of salt 
pork, omitting butter in dressing. Potatoes may be added about 
an hour before greens are done. Different greens are cooked as 
above or in different ways which are given. Cowslips make a fair 
substitute for dandelions but are rather insipid. Mustard is excel- 
lent, when tender, and should be cooked as above. Greens can be 
had through the season by sowing spinach, beets, and Swiss chard 
thickly in the garden beds, in a rich soil. They should be sown at 
intervals of two weeks a few at a time. The Swiss chard has quite 
large leaves and stalks, but they are crisp and tender if grown well. 
It lacks the delicious sweetness of the beet, but will be liked by any 
one fond of greens. Young beets are excellent eating, top and root. 
Where one has a garden, always sow the seed thickly and thin out 
when the plants become of sufficient size, using for greens, leaving 
those for winter use to mature in the rows. Spinach is a favorite 
old plant, and many families would not think of being without it. 
Lettuce is also good for greens, being very tender and rich in flavor. 
If dandelion seed is sown in the garden, in good soil, and care is given 
the plants, one will be surprised to see how great an improvement 
cultivation makes in it. The leaves will be larger and thicker, 
and as rich soil induces a vigorous growth and a quick one, they 
will be much crisper and more tender. 

Egg Plant. — Peel and slice one or two medium sized egg plants, 
put on in cold water, boil till tender, drain, mash fine, season with 
salt and pepper, and add beaten egg, and tablespoon flour ; fry in 
little cakes in butter or butter and lard in equal parts. Parsnips 
and Salsify or Oyster-plant may be cooked in same way. 

Boiled Hominy. — Soak quart ground hominy overnight, put over 
fire in tin pail, set in boiling water, with water enough to cover, boil" 
gently for five hours, as it can not be hurried. After grains begin 
to soften on no account stir it. The water put in at first ought to 
be enough to finish it, but if it proves too little, add more carefully, 
as too much makes it too soft. Salt just before taking from the 
stove, as too early salting makes it dark. If properly done, the 
grains will stand out snowy and well done, but round and separate. 



608 VEGETABLES. 



Macaroni. — Macaroni is a food of very high nutritious value, 
being formed chiefly of the gluten, the most valuable part of the 
wheat from which the starch has been removed. Weight for weight, 
it may be regarded as not less valuable for flesh-making purposes 
in the animal economy than beef and mutton. Take Bj)aghetti or 
thread macaroni. Do not wash. Have saucepan on fire half full of 
boiling water, with a heaping tablespoon of salt, add macaroni and 
boil till tender, about ten minutes, drain and cover with plenty of 
cold water. Let stand till cold, drain, dress with either some White, 
Brown or Tomato Sauce, reheat and serve ; or for Triple Macaroni, 
dress with a cup of each of the sauces and a cup of chopped cold 
ham, chicken or tongue, reheat and serve. 

Baked Onions, — Wash, peel and parboil large onions, changing 
water, adding a little milk with last water ; when just tender, place in 
baking dish or jar, putting a little salt, white pepper, and butter on 
each, with a little of the water in which they were cooked in the pan; 
brown in oven fifteen minutes and serve. For Creamed Onions, boil 
till tender, drain, return to saucepans and cover with a White Sauce 
or a Cream Dressing, adding a little minced parsley, if wished; 
when hot, serve. For Stuffed Onions, peel eight or ten and parboil 
fifteen minutes, drain and take out about half the insides; chop 
these and mix with them gill each sausage meat and bread-crumbs, 
an egg, and a good pinch white pepper, and a little salt. Stuff" on- 
ions with mixture and heap it a little on top to use up surplus if 
any. Place in a deep pan that will go in steamer and let steam 
about an hour and a half. Then brown in oven with cup of gravy 
poured in pan. When not convenient to steam they can be simmer- 
ed in gravy in oven if kept covered with a greased sheet of paper. 
Any kind of minced cold meat, or part raw and part cooked can be 
used. For Onion Omelet, mash eight medium-sized onions boiled 
quite done, and season with pepper, salt, tablespoon butter, gill 
Bweet tailk, and two or three eggs. Bake as directed for Baked 
Omelet, or simply bake in oven eight minutes. 

I'arsnip. — Boil till tender, mash, season and fry in one large 
cake i» frying-pan, or add yolks of eggs little flour or cracker dust 
and fry in small cakes. 

Neiv Pease. — Cut up an onion and head of lettuce and add to 
quart shelled pease with very little water, cook till tender, add 
beaten egg and half teaspoon sugar and serve. 

Rice Pie. — Take cold remains of roast beef, mince very fine, and 
put into ar stewpan with quart or more water ; chop fine medium- 
sized onion, large potato, and large slice fat salt pork ; put these 
with salt, pepper, and half teaspoon allspice into saucepan with 
meat, and boil steadily till gravy is reduced two-thirds, and meat 
tender ; while this is cooking, take pint rice and boil in plenty of 



VEGETABLES. 609 



water vrith salt to taste ; when grains become tender, drain ofif water 
and set back on stove to steam, first turning it carefully over from 
bottom of pot with a spoon to allow steam to pass through ; if pro- 
perly cooked the grain should all stand separately though perfectly 
tender ; take half can large tomatoes, stewed till smooth and free 
from lumps ; stir into rice large tablespoon butter, then mix in to- 
matoes and hash with hard-boiled eggs sliced thin ; put the whole 
into large baking dish ; cut two more eggs over top, pressing gently 
down into the rice to prevent drying up ; sprinkle with white pep- 
per and bake till brown ; when done set dish on a large flat dish and 
serve hot for dinner. Some cooks smooth rice with back of a spoon, 
and then brush over with yolk of an egg, and set in oven to color ; 
but rice well boiled, white, dry, and with every grain distinct, is by far 
the preferable mode of dressing it. During the process of boiling, 
should be attentively watched, that it be not orerdone, as, if this 
is the case it will have a mashed and soft appearance. 

Salsify. — Slice crosswise five or six good-sized plants, cook till 
tender in water enough to cover, then add a pint or more of rich 
milk mixed wsth one tablespoon flour, season with butter, pepper 
and salt, let boil up and pour over slices of toasted bread ; or for 
Salsify Soup, add three pints milk, or half milk and water, season 
and serve with crackers like oyster soup ; a little codfish added gives 
more of an oyster flavor. For Salsify Fritters, scrape, boil, 
drain and mash ; add beaten egg, salt, pepper, four tablespoons 
cream and flour enough to make batter that will drop from end of 
spoon. Fry as directed in Fritters. When scraping salsify it is 
well to drop it in cold water in which there is a little vinegar as sal- 
sify darkens so very quickly by exposure to air. 

Summer Squash. — Take a tender one, cut in slices, skin and all, 
dip in water then in flour, or single-bread or dip in batter, and fry 
in hot lard. These taste like Egg-plant ; or for Squash Patties, 
steam till tender, take up and mash to a pulp, let cool a little, sea- 
son with pepper, salt, butter and add flour until stifif, two eggs and a 
little sweet milk ; make in little cakes or drop in hot lard and fry 
brown. 

Winter Squash. — As shell is often so very hard an easy way is 
to put a whole squash in a steamer, after washing off outside and let 
steam half an hour. That softens the shell sufficiently, and it can 
be cut in strips about the width of two fingers. Place in baking 
pan, finish as above or rub with a brush dipped in butter and sprinkle 
with a little salt and sugar. Bake without burning, using greased 
paper if necesssry. For Squash Cakes, take any cooked squash, 
mash, and to a pint add one egg, cracker-crumbs till stifif enough to 
shape, season with salt and pepper, add teaspoon sugar, make into 
cakes and fry in frying-pan. These are delicious. A little butter 
may be added if wished. 
. 39 



610 VEGETABLES. 



Succotash. — Parboil quart dry white beans in soda water. Cook 
slowly in a separate vessel two-thirds as much dried sweet corn. 
Pour off soda water from beans and put them over fire in cold wa- 
ter with a email piece salt pork, Let them boil about three hours, 
adding hot water to prevent burning, - When nearly done add corn, 
a trifle of red pepper, a small piece of butter, and a tablespoon 
sugar. The pork makes it salt enough. 

Baked Tomatoes. — Take nice large tomatoes ; wash and wipe 
dry ; cut in halves ; lay in baking dish with rind down, so the 
juice will not run out; put a little piece of butter on each half, 
sprinkle over some salt and pepper, then sift with flour and sugar 
to make them brown ; put a little water in to keep from burning 
and bake until done. Eat warm ; or cut in slices, season as above 
and cover with a layer of bread crumbs. Or into quart cold stewed 
tomatoes, beat two eggs, two tablespoons bread crumbs, tablespoon 
chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Bake twenty min- 
utes in a quick oven. For Boiled Tomatoes select good firm toma- 
toes ; drop them into a pail or pot of hot water, and boil them the 
same as you would boil potatoes with their "jackets" on. The 
length of time, of course, will depend somewhat on the size of the 
fruit and the quickness of the fire. When they have been boiling 
about five minutes, try them with a fork. If they are soft all the 
way through they are done. Lift out, peel the skin off, add butter, 
pepper and salt. These are very nice. For Stuffed Tomatoes cut six- 
tomatoes in halves, remove pulp and fill inside with a mixture of 
bread-crumbs, and grated Parmesan cheese seasoned with pepper 
and salt; place a small piece of butter on each half tomato, and lay 
them close together in a well-buttered tin. Bake in a slow oven 
about half an hour, and serve with the liquor that comes from 
them when cooking, or a nice rich gravy may be poured over them. 
Or any stuffed tomatoes may be Fried carefully or they are deli- 
cious Braised. For Tomato Salad lay, whole, on the ice before 
slicing, to harden them ; slice them with a sharp knife, and pour 
over any salad dressing. For Tomatoes With Eggs, peel skins from 
twelve large tomatoes. Put four spoonfuls butter in a frying-pan ; 
when hot, add one large onion chopped fine ; let it fry a few min- 
utes, add tomatoes, and when nearly done, six eggs well beaten. 
With Onions, slice two large onions, quart tomatoes, cook and seas- 
on with pepper, salt, butter, thicken with bread. Just before serv- 
ing add half cup either sweet or good sour cream. If tomatoes are 
taken from fire before adding cream it will not curdle. With Rice, 
scald and peel six ripe tomatoes, scald cup rice, and put both to- 
gether in a pan ; add tablespoon sugar, a little salt, pepper, and 
water enough to bring the rice to consistency of plain boiled rice when 
done, and stew till latter is tender. Season with butter before serv« 
ing. 



VEGETABLES. 611 



Baked Turnips. — Take whole turnips, wash well, but do not 
peel, cut slice off top, place in oven and bake; when done serve in 
the skin ; they can be seasoned and eaten right out of the shell the 
skin forms. The white turnips are best for this. Or peel, slice and 
bake ; or peel either white or yellow, latter known as ruta-bagas, 
cut in small slices, dice are nicest, and boil in boiling salted water 
till tender ; drain, put in an earthen baking dish and cover with a 
White Sauce made of milk or water, add a layer of bread or cracker 
crumbs and dot with bits of butter and brown in oven. Cold 
boiled turnips can be used as above and either make a very nice 
dish. . ' 

Potato Stew. — Boil one pound salt pork in two quarts 
water ; when done, take out, add twelve raw potatoes and two onions 
sliced, or if very small, leave potatoes whole ; cook three-quarters 
of an hour, and add tablespoon butter and cup milk mixed with a 
beaten egg ; boil a moment or two and serve ; or if not wished with 
as much liquid, prepare the dressing of butter, milk and egg in 
saucepan, skim out potatoes and onions, add, and boil up once in it. 
Score the meat and brown in oven and serve. If quite salt, soak a 
little while before cooking. 

Vegetable Stews. — These are of German or Swiss origin, and if 
v;ell prepared are excellent. For a Cabbage Stew, take as much as 
needed, quarter, core and boil till fairly done, but not tender; then 
skim out into a large pan of clear cold water. Let it cool and drain ; 
press in colander or with the hands, then cut it f ne or coarse, just 
as liked ; meantime put on stove a kettle or saucepan — a deep fry- 
ing pan will do — with butter and drippings, half and half, rather 
more than for frying same amount potatoes, and add a minced 
onion or two. When it is slightly browned dredge with a table- 
spoon of flour to a quart of cabbage; it should be rather moist. 
Pepper and salt to taste, stir frequently and cook slowly from half 
to three-quarters of an hour. Never put a cover on any of these 
vegetable stews while cooking as it would cause the thickening to 
settle to the bottom and burn, while the evaporating process that 
gives it flavor would be checked. If to guard against flies, a cover 
is necessary, use a wire one. For Bean Steiv, put a teacup picked 
and washed white beans into just such a foundation as directed for 
Potato Stew, only the beans must be put on to cook three or four 
hours before dinner and need more water than potatoes. Do 
not cover. Pea Stews, either with dried or split pease, are very good 
cooked in this way, though most people prefer to use smoked ba- 
con for the fat dart of the foundation for pease. In any of these 
stews, pork, salt or fresh, can be used as fat instead of butter, lard 
or drippings. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, egg plant, tomatoes, 
cauliflower or any vegeta])les can be slewed thus, making a va- 
riety of most wholesome and inexpensive dishes. Something simi- 
lar to these stews is the Pepper Pot : After washing thoroughly 



tJl2 VEGETABLES. 



place pound and three-quarters of honey-comb tripe in kettle with a 
two pound knuckle of veal and two quarts cold water ; when boiling, 
skim and then simmer slowly for six or seven hours, adding boiling 
water as needed. When done, strain, let stand overnight, remove fat 
'and put the stock in kettle ; then add half a red pepper, cut in strips, 
tablespoon minced parsley and a medium-sized onion, chopped fine, 
and simmer three-quarters of an hour. Make a thickening of a 
tablespoon or two of the fat taken from soup with two tablespoons 
flour, stirring it smooth with a little of the broth from kettle ; add 
this, stirring in well and then add two or three medium-sized raw 
potatoes, chopped fine, with the tripe and veal cut in inch squares, 
cook five minutes, add some tiny Suet Dumplings, and after cook- 
ing fifteen minutes, serve. This makes a delicious stew and if more 
of a soup is wished use four quarts water instead of two. 



"Winter Vegetables. 



As vegetables are such a necessary part of our winter diet, it is 
essential to know the better ways of keeping them as nearly perfect 
as possible. Canning gives good results but it is considered by 
many quite an arduous task to can, so we give below methods of 
preserving in salt, drying, etc., that are claimed to be never failing. 



Beans in Brine. — Wash, string, and cut up the pods, as if pre- 
paring for immediate cooking ; take a large earthen vessel or water- 
tight cask, sprinkle a layer of salt at the bottom, then fill up with 
alternate layers of cut beans and salt ; when the vessel is quite full, 
place a wooden plate on the top layer of salt, with a weight on it to 
press the whole mass well down. After standing a few days the 
vessel will be found little more than half full ; it can then be filled 
up with more cut beans and salt, and the process repeated till quite 
full. Place a liberal layer of salt on the top, put the wooden plate 
and weight on, and set in a cool place till required. Or string fresh 
green beans, and cut down the sides till within an inch of the end, 
boil in water fifteen minutes, take out and drain ; when cold, pack 
in a stone jar, first putting two tablespoons salt in bottom, then a 
quart of beans, sprinkle with a tablespoon salt, put in layer after layer 
in this way till the crock is full, pour over a pint of cold well-water 
(if not filled the first time, beans may be added until filled, putting 



VEGETABLES. 613 

in no more water after this pint), put on cloth with a plate and 
weight, set away in cool place, and in about a week take off cloth, 
wash it out in a little salt water (there will be a scum upon it}, put 
back as before, and repeat operation at the end of another week ; 
then pack away, and when wanted for use, take out the quantity 
wanted and soak for half an hour, put in pot in cold water with a 
piece of fresh pork, cook half an hour, season with pepper and a 
little salt if needed ; or cook without pork and season with butter and 
pepper ; or some fill the crock with the cooked beans and then cover 
with a strong brine made as for cucumbers. Or for Dried String 
Beans^ string and cut as for cooking and dry like corn. To use 
soak and cook as fresh ones. 

Dried Corn. — Secure corn "in the milk" and after cleaning place 
the ears in a large steamer over the fire (one can be improvised by 
using a wash boiler, with cover, putting in pieces of hardwood in the 
bottom and placing a dripping pan on them, or a piece of tin with 
holes in it), let remain a short time, only long enough to set the~ 
milk, then cut about two-thirds depth of the kernel from cob with a 
very sharp knife, and with back of knife scrape the inside of the rest 
of the kernel from the cob. Have clean sheet or tablecloth laid on 
boards in the sun and as soon as a small quantity is prepared, place 
immediately on boards and continue above process till all is cut, 
A good drying day will nearly dry the corn sufficient to place in 
oven to finish in the evening, but it often happens that the day is 
not such ; then place the cloth with the corn on it on tables or on a 
clean floor in a vacant room over night and put out in sun next 
day. Continue to do this till it is thoroughly dry, then place in a 
thick paper in a dripping pan, pour in corn and put in a warm oven 
till corn is so hot it cannot be touched with the finger. While in 
stove watch constantly to keep from scorching or becoming brown, 
and finish as above. For Corn in Brine, select nice large ears just 
right for eating, remove all husks except inside row, place a layer of 
salt in a barrel, (a hard wood one is better) then layer of ears of 
corn, then salt, etc., till all is used ; add enough water to form a 
brine, and cover with board, cloth and weight as for Cucumbers in 
Brine. Corn may be added during the season, caring for the cover- 
ing as directed in pickles. To use, freshen over night and cook as 
new corn. For Cut Corn in Brine, scald corn just enough to set milk, 
cut from cob and to every four pints corn add pint salt, mix thor- 
oughly, pack in jars and cover with a cloth and weight; when 
wanted for use put in a saucepan or kettle, cover with cold water ; 
as soon as it comes to a boil pour off and put on cold again, and 
repeat until it is fresh enough ; when tender, add a very little sugar, 
sweet cream, or butter, etc., to taste and serve. Or corn may be 
steamed instead of being scalded, and some use one-fourth or even 
one-third salt, soaking over night or longer, if necessary before 
cooking. 



614 A year's bills or fare. 



A YEAR'S BILLS OF FARE. 



January. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Buckwheat cakes, croquettes of sausage meat, 
breakfast hominy. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast turkey, mashed potatoes, Lima 
beans, cranberry sauce, celery; mince pie, Danish Pudding, cake. Supper — 
Cold biscuit, sliced turkey, cranberry jelly, apple sauce. 

Monday. Breakfast — Graham cakes, fried tripe, potato cakes. Dinner — 
Escaloped turkey, baked potatoes, pickled beets ; apple short cake. Supper — 
Dried beef frizzled, hot buns, fried apples. 

Tuesday. Breakfast-^Graham. gems, boiled mutton, potatoes a la pan- 
cake. Dinner — Turkey soup, roasted beef with potatoes, stewed tomatoes, 
celery ; rice pudding, fruit cake. _ Supper — Cold buns, sliced beef, Indian 
pudding (corn meal mush) and milk. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried mush and maple syrnp, 
fried liver. Dinner — Meat pie, mashed turnips, stewed corn ; apple dump- 
lings with sauce, cake. Supper — Tea rolls, sardines with sliced lemon, rusk, 
jelly. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Gluten cakes, boiled beefsteak, potatoes. Dinner 
— Chicken boiled with soup, whole potatoes boiled, plain boiled rice, cab- 
bage salad ; apple pie, cake. Supper — Vienna rolls, cold chicken, canned 
fruit, cake. 

Friday. Breakfast — Eice cakes, spare ribs broiled, fried raw potatoes. 
Dinner — Baked fish, canned corn, tomato sauce, fricassee of salmon or hali- 
but, baked potatoes ; tapioca pudding. Suj^per — Warm rolls, pressed meat, 
canned blackberries. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Broiled sausage, whole potatoes fried, apple 
fritters. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, fried mutton chops, plain boiled rice, 
baked potatoes, fish salad ; brown pudding with sauce. Supper — Plain bread, 
bologna sausage, jelly cake. 

Februarv. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans and Boston brown bread, fried apples 
and coffee bread. Dinner — Oyster soup, roast of mutton, baked potatoes, 
Lima beans, tomatoes, salsify, cranberry jelly, celery, mayonnaise of sal- 
mon; mince pie, ambrosia and fruit cake. Supper — Italian rolls, currant 
jelly, chocolate blanc-mange. Yule cake. 

Monday. Breakfast — Rye biscuit, mutton warmed in butter, or broiled 
fish, croquettes of cold vegetables. Dinner — Beef a la mode, mashed pota- 
toes and turnips, boiled rice, cottage pudding, cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, 
dried beef, apple tapioca pudding. 



A year's bills of fare. 615 

Tuesday. Breal-fast — Corn cakes, hash, fried potatoes. Dinner — Roa-t 
pork with sweet potatoes or parsnips, pudding of canned corn, pickled bee^s 
apple custard pie, jelly cake. Sujiper — Sardines, buns, preserved fruit with 
whipped cream. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Toast, fried fish, potatoes fried. Dinner — Bak- 
ed ham, whole boiled potatoes, salsify stewed, celery sauce; apple float, 
pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — French rolls, cold tongue, sliced oranges. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Pigs' feet souse, potato cakes. Dinner — Amber 
soup, chicken pie, stewed onions, turnips, pickled beets, waffles ; boiled 
batter pudding with cream sauce. Supper — Buttered toast, baked apples 
and whipped cream, teacakes. 

Friday. Breakfast — Broiled oysters on toast, tomato sauce, flannel, 
cakes with honey or maple syrup. Dinner — Baked or broiled fish if fresh, 
or fricasseed if canned, mashed potatoes, fried parsnips cabbage salad, apple 
dumplings with sauce. Supper — Creamed codfish, corn mush hot with milk, 
canned fruit and light cakes. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Broiled mutton chops, creamed potatoes Graham 
cakes. Dinner — Saturday bean soup, boiled shoulder of ham with cabbage, 
potatoes, parsnips, carrots, pickled beets, lemon pie. Supper — Bread and 
milk hot, cold ham, jelly and cake. 

JVEarcli. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Baked beans with pork and Boston brown bread, 
omelet. Dinner — Bouillon Roast turkey, potatoes, canned corn, plum jelly, 
young lettuce broken up (not cut) heaped lightly in a dish and ornamented 
with sliced eggs ; Charlotte russe, jelly and sponge cake. Supper — Cold 
turkey, cranberry jelly, canned fruit, jam and cake. 

Monday. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, mutton chops, broiled potatoes. Din- 
ner — Beefsteak soup, broiled steak, potatoes boiled whole, salsify, oyster 
salad, sweet pickles, transparent pudding, cream pufi"s, oranges. Supper — 
Graham muffins, cold meat, apple fritters with sugar, sponge cake. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Buttered toast, pork chops broiled, hominy grits. 
Dinner — Tomato soup, diced potatoes, canned corn or beans, pickles ; steam- 
ed pudding with sauce, almonds, raisins. Supper — Baking powder rusk, 
sardines with lemon, light cofl'ee cake and jam. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Plain bread, fried mush, broiled bacon, break- 
fast potatoes. Dm?ier— Roast duck, baked potatoes, stewed tomatoes, cur- 
rant, plum or grape jelly ; Chocolate custard pie. Supper — Buttered toast, 
cold duck, jelly cake. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, boiled ham, shirred eggs. Din- 
ner — Boiled tongue, mutton stew with potatoes, steamed rice ; lemon pudding, 
cake. Supper — Cold biscuit, shaved tongue, rice fritters with sugar. 

Friday. Breakfast — Corn muffins, broiled fish, escaloped eggs. Dinner 
—Boiled salt cod with mashed potatoes, canned pease, cabbage salad ; baked 
custard, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage sliced, broiled and buttered; hot 
plain bread, toasted rusk, raspberry jam. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled veal, potatoes. Dinner — 
Corned beef boiled with turnips or parsnips, canned corn boiled onions, 
horse-radish sauce ; cocoanut pie. Supper — Toasted graham bread, cold beef 
shaved, warrp. rusk and jelly. 

April, 

Easter Sunday. Breakfast — Broiled sirloin steak, French rolls young 
radishes, Saratoga potatoes, boiled eggs, 'waffles and honey. Dinner — Chick- 
en soup or green turtle with Italian paste, fresh fish boiled with drawn but- 



616 A year's bills of fare. 



ter and sliced eggs, or fish stuffed and baked, served with lemon and parsley, 
mashed potatoes, glazed ham, pudding of canned corn, tomato sauce, chicken 
salad, pickles celery, grape jelly, game ; cream pie, assorted cakes, Easter 
jelly, Easter pudding, fruits, nuts and coftee. Supper or Luncheon — Cold rolls, 
cream biscuits, cold ham, currant jelly, oysters baked on shell, cakes and 
fruit, chocolate or tea, ribbon jelly. 

Monday. Breakfast — Graham bread, veal cutlets, fricasseed potatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled ham with potatoes, canned corn pudding, parsnips fried, 
mixed pickles ; peach cobbler, cake. Supper — Graham toast, cold sliced ham, 
hot rusk, stewed fruit. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Muffins, breaded veal cutlets, curried eggs, potato 
cakes. Dinner — Roast beef, canned succotash, plain boiled rice with toma- 
toes, dressed lettuce ; peach rolls with sauce. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold 
beef sliced, hot bread and milk. 

Wednesday . Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled ham, boiled eggs. Dinner 
— Mutton soup, mutton garnished with beets and grasses, stewed parsnips, 
pudding of canned corn, asparagus on toast, onions, cheese crusts ; orange 
float, jelly cake. Supper — Soda biscuit, cold mutton, currant jelly, fruit 
charlotte. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Vienna rolls, fried pickled tripe, rice croquettes, 
radishes. Dinner — Chicken pot-pie, canned Lima beans, stewed tomatoes, 
asparagus ; almond custard. Supper — Cold rolls, chicken salad, chocolate 
tarts. 

Friday. Breakfast — Corn cakes, pates of cold mutton hot, with gravy, 
fried raw potatoes. Dinner — Fricassee of canned halibut or fresh fish baked, 
mashed potatoes, turnips sliced ; bread pudding, oranges cake. Stq^per— Plain 
bread, cold beef, steamed crackers. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Baking powder biscuit with maple syrup fricas- 
seed potatoes, croquettes of fish. Dinrier — Boiled leg of mutton, ambushed 
asparagus, boiled macaroni, potato a la pancake ; bread pudding. Supper — 
Cold rolls, cold mutton sliced, plain boiled rice with cream and sugar. 

May. 

Sunday. Breakfast— -Breakfast toast, fried veal cutlets, sliced tomatoes. 
Dinner — Roast of lamb with mint sauce, currant jelly, new potatoes, green 
pease, gelinola salad with fruit; strawberry short cake. Supper — Light 
rolls, cold lamb, jelly and cake. 

Monday. Breakfast — Plain bread, minced lamb with poached eggs on 
toast. Dinner — Meat pie, new potatoes, asparagus, lettuce ; cherry pie, lady 
fingers. Supper — Rusk, sardine jelly, baked rhubarb. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Plain bread, broiled bacon, fried potatoes. Din- 
ner — Chicken soup, smothered chickens, ci'eamed potatoes, tomatoes, Paris 
pudding, oranges. Supper — Waffles, cold pressed meat, jelly cake. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Muffins, codfish, boiled eggs. Dinner — ^Veal 
stew, potatoes mashed or baked, spinach, rhubarb sauce ; plain batter pud- 
ding with sauce, cake and fruit. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold veal, bache- 
lor's buttons. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Sally Lunn, broiled ham, scrambled eggs, fried 
potatoes. Dinner — Roast beef with potatoes, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and 
onion salad; cream pie. Supper — Toasted Sally Lunn, cold beef sliced, tea 
buns, fruit. 

Friday. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, broiled beefsteak, omelet. Dinner 
—Barley soup, baked fish with egg sauce, stewed parsnips, potatoes, aspara- 
gus, pates of sweet-bread, lettuce mayonnaise; perfection cream pudding, 
strawberries. Supper — Cold rolls, sliced lamb, cake jelly. 



▲ year's bills of fare. 617 

Saturday. Breakfast — Waffles with maple syrup, scalloped fish, creamed 
potatoes. Dinner — Ham boiled with greens, young turnips; rhubarb pie, 
tapioca jelly. Supper — Plain bread, shaved ham, hot buna and fruit. 

June. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Light rolls, broiled beefsteak, sliced tomatoes, 
omelets. Dinner — Raspberry soup, boiled chicken, mashed potatoes, green 
pease, pickled beets ; strawberry Bavarian cream. Supper — Cold rolls, cold 
chicken, toast with jelly fruit. 

Monday. Breakfast — Corn cakes, fried clams, potatoes, or hominy cro- 
quettes. Dinner — Pea soup, roast beef with potatoes, string beans, young 
onions; raspberry blanc-mange, oranges or bananas and cake. Supper — 
buns, cold beef sliced, cherries, lemon cake. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Waffles, breakfast stew, fried potatoes. Dinner — 
Meat pie, asparagus toast, potatoes, lettuce ; raspberry float. Supper — Cold 
buns, chopped dried beef, raspberry cream, cakes. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Cream toast, broiled beefsteak, boiled eggs, 
stewed tomatoes. Dinner — Fruit soup, lamb cutlets broiled and served with 
green pease, summer squash, young onions, pickled beets ; strawberries, 
cakes. Supper — Cold biscuits, canned salmon, fruit. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Graham bread, beefsteak smothered with onions, 
tomatoes. Dinner — Boiled beef with soup, potatoes, string beans; cherry 
dumplings with sauce, cakes. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold beef, 
currants. 

Friday. Breakfast — Corn pone, broiled ham, omelet, hominy fritters. 
Dinner — Boiled salmon or some other variety of fresh fish either fried, baked 
or fricasseed ; mashed pototoes, Lima beans, squash, cucumbers ; oranges. 
Supper — Cold pone sliced and toasted in the oven, cold tongue, sponge cake 
with fruit. 

Saturday. Breakfast — French rolls, broiled liver, tomatoes. Dinner — 
Stewed lamb with riiint sauce, potatoes, squash, beets ; strawberries and 
cream. Supper — Cold sliced lamb, sweet muffins with stewed cherries. 

July. 

Sunday, Breakfast — Fresh berries with cream and sugar, broiled 
Spanish mackerel, buttered toast, omelet, flannel cakes with syrup. Din- 
ner — Pea soup, roast tenderloin of beef, new potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce a 
la Magonnaise, cucumbers, sliced, royal strawberry short-cake, ice-cream, 
cake. Supper — Small light biscuit, sliced ham, almond flowers, cake and 
berries. 

Monday. Breakfast — Creamed gems, broiled mutton chops, fried pota- 
toes, cottage cheese. Dinner — Ragout of beef, boiled pototoes, young onions, 
tomatoes ; rice pudding, oranges, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, ham salad, 
stewed berries, currant buns. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Batter cake, breakfast bacon, cracked wheat with 
cream. Dinner — Stuffed fillet of veal garnished with green pease, mashed 
potatoes, summer squash, beet salad, blackberries, cream and cake. Sup)per 
— Cold rolls, sliced veal, short-cake with berries or jam. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Hot muffins, boiled beefsteak, boiled eggs. 
Dinner — Meat pie, boiled potatoes, boiled cauliflower with sauce ; cherry 
souffle, cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, bologna sausage sliced, raspberries. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Cream toast, poached eggs, boiled ham. Dinner 
Rice soup, iDoiled corned beef, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumber salad ; ripe cur- 
rant pie, cake. Supper — Plain bread, cold corned beef, steamed crackers, 
stewed fruit. 



61 S A year's bills of fare. 

Friday. Breakfast — Hash, fried potatoes, stewed tomatoes with toast. 
Dinner — Fresh fish either baked, boiled or fried, green beans stewed wjth 
pork, boiled potatoes, cucumber salad ; cherry pie, cake. Supper — Warm 
biscuit, ham omelet, light cakes and jelly or berries. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Waffles, broiled beefsteak, scrambled eggs. Din- 
ner — Roast beef with potatoes, beets, cucumbers, dressed lettuce; cup cus- 
tards, oranges, cake. Su])per — Plarin bread, oatmeal with cream, sliced 
banana or pine-apple. 

August. 

Sunday. Breakfast — ^Nutmeg melons, fried chickens with cream gravy, 
fried tomatoes, cottage cheese, corn fritters. Dinner — Roast loin of veal, 
mashed potatoes, tapioca cream cabbage, egg terrace, tomatoes ; watermelon. 
Supper — Cold rolls, sliced veal. 

Monday. Breakfast — Buttered toast with poached eggs, cold roast 
veal sliced and warmed up with gravy, potatoes fried. Dinner — Roast beef 
with potatoes, pease, tomatoes, corn pudding, lettuce ; watermelon. Supper 
— Light biscuit, cold sliced beef, apple snow. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Netmeg melon, corn, oysters, boiled bacon. Din- 
ner — Broiled prairie chickens with currant jelly, browned potatoes, sliced 
tomatoes ; cake, orange float. Supper — Spoon biscuit, cold beef, jelly and 
cake. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Corn gems, croquettes of mutton, fried apples, 
fried potatoes. Dinner — Boiled tongue, whole boiled potatoes, tomatoes 
stewed ; fried bananas. Supper — Toasted bread, cold tongue, oatmeal with 
cream. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Breakfast rolls, fried sweet-breads, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Brown stew, baked potatoes, stewed corn, tomatoes, watermelon. 
Supper — Sliced cold beef, biscuit, floating island. 

Friday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, rice muffins, boiled beefsteak, pota- 
toes. Dinner — Fresh fish chowder, potatoes whole, pease, boiled onions, 
tomato salad ; chocolate tarts, cake. Supper — Toasted muffins, cold pressed 
meat; sponge cake, and jelly with whipped cream. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Poached eggs on toast, fried potatoes, waffles. 
Dinner — Boiled ham or shoulder with vegetables, cucumber salad ; carrot 
pudding, warm gingerbread and lemonade. Supper — Light biscuit, shaved 
ham, blanc-mange, with jelly and cake. 

September. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, fried oysters, baked potatoes. 
Dinner — Baked chickens, sweet potatoes, succotash, baked tomatoes ; Goph- 
er Orange ice, mixed cakes, watermelon. Supper — Sliced chicken, biscuit, 
apple sauce. 

Monday. Breakfast — Plain bread, green corn fritters, muttton chops. 
Dinner — Chicken panned pie, mashed potatoes, pickled beets ; peach cake 
with whipped cream. Supper — Sliced veal loaf, warm light biscuit, fried 
bananas. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Graham bread, broiled steak, tomatoes. Dinner — 
Boiled bacon with potatoes and beans, green corn pudding, raw tomatoes, 
baked eggplant; apple pie, cake. Supper — Raw oysters and sliced lemon, 
biscuit and cake. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Hot muffins, fried chicken, fried cabbage. 
Dinner — Ragout of beef, potatoes, carrots, corn; compote ©f pears. Supper — 
Cold sliced beef, sliced tomatoes, egg rolls. 



A year's bills of fare. 619 

Thursday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melon, waffles, boiled chicken, cream 
omelets. Dinner — Veal pot pie, sweet potatoes, corn, baked onions ; cup 
custards. Supper — Toasted bread, canned salmon, baked pears. 

Friday. Breakfast — Graham gems, mutton chops, potatoes. Dinner — 
Baked fish, potatoes, green corn, stewed tomatoes, pickled beets ; peach 
dumplings with sauce, cake. Supper — Oyster stew, crackers, celery, fruit. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Nutmeg melons, corn oysters, steak. Dinner — 
Beef boiled with cabbage and potatoes, succotash ; apple roly-poly with cus- 
tard sauce, sponge cake. Supper — Sliced beef, peaches and cream. 

October. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Fried oysters, fried mush, poached eggs. Dinner — 
Roast wild duck, grape or plum jelly, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, Lima 
beans ; sliced peaches, ice cream, cake, grapes. Supper — Sliced duck, sliced 
tomatoes, sponge cake, jelly. 

Monday. Breakfast — Mutton chops broiled, potatoes fried, buttered toast. 
Dinner — Veal pot pie, sweet-potatoes, Lima beans, tomatoes, pickles; apple 
fritters with sauce, grape tarts, cake. Supper — Sliced dried beef, currant or 
plum jelly ; baked quinces. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Oyster croquettes, fried cabbage, fried potatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled mutton with soup, potatoes, squash ; Graham pudding, cake. 
Supper — Sliced mutton, light buns, fried apples. 

Wednesday . Breakfast — Vegetable hash, fried oysters, stewed tomatoes. 
Dinner — Boiled pheasant, sweet-potatoes, tomatoes, onion sauce; peach 
meringue pie, plum jelly, cake, fruit. Supper — Cold beef sliced, rusk, bak- 
ed apples. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Hot rolls, broiled bacon, fricassed potatoes. Din- 
ner — Meat pie, boiled onions, stewed tomatoes, beets ; apple dumplings with 
sauce, cake. Supper — Cold pressed meat, cake, stewed grapes. 

Friday. Breakfast — Broiled mutton chops, fried potato cakes, muffins. 
Dinner — Baked or boiled fish, boiled whole potatoes, corn, delicate cabbage, 
cheese fondu; peach meringue, cake. Supper — Bologna sausage, toasted 
muffins, honey. 

Saturday Breakfast — Bread puflfs, croquettes of fish with potatoes, to- 
matoes. Dinner — Beau soup, broiled beefsteak, boiled cauliflower, potatoes 
boiled in jackets, pickles; plain boiled pudding with sauce, cake, fruit. 
Supper — Beefsteak toast, bread, stewed pears. 

ISTovembei*. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Cream toast, fried chickens, escaloped eggs. Din- 
ner — Roast wild goose with apple sauce, celery, turnips, sweet-potatoes ; 
pumpkin pie, cake. Supper — Tea rolls, cold sliced goose, blance-mange. 

Monday. Breakfast — Graham mush, boiled steak, potatoes, plain bread. 
Dinner — Roast goose warmed over, baked potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; 
grape pie, cake. Supper — Buttered toast, cold sliced goose, fried apples, 
rusk. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Buttered toast, fried pork steak, potato cake, 
tomatoes. Dinner — Boiled chicken with soup, plain rice, whole potatoes, 
slaw ; apple dumplings, cake. Supper — Cold chicken, rice fritters, tea cakes. 

Wednesday. Breakfast — Butter cakes, broiled mutton chops, potatoes. 
Dinner — Oyster pie, baked sweet-potatoes, turnips, celery ; apple pie with 
whipped cream. Supper — Cold rolls, chipped beef, custard cake, marma- 
lade. 



620 A year's bills of fare. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Graham bread, croquettes of duck, potatoes. Din- 
ner — Beef tongue, baked potatoes, macaroni with cheese ; grapes with cake. 
Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongue, baked pears. 

Friday. Breakfast — Fried mush, oyster fritters, plain bread. Dinner — 
Baked or boiled fish, mashed pototoes, canned pease, tomatoes, grape jelly ; 
cottage pudding with sauce. Supper — Rolls, cold mutton sliced, rice fritters, 
jelly and cake. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Graham gems, veal cutlets, potatoes. Dinner — 
Chicken pie ; warm apple pie, cake. Supper — Toasted gems, dried beef, 
baked apples. 

December. 

Sunday. Breakfast — Flannel cakes, beefsteak toast, potato cakes. Din- 
ner — Roast haunch venison, mashed potatoes, tomatoes, apple sauce, cheese 
fingers, celery ; fig pudding with lemon sauce, cake. Supper — Tea buns, cold 
venison, canned fruit, lady fingers. 

Monday. Breakfast — Graham bread, boiled spare ribs, fried raw pota- 
toes. Dinner — Broiled beefsteak, stufi'ed cabbage, potato souffle, turnips, 
celery ; cake pudding, cake. Supper — Toasted Graham bread, cold tongue, 
floating island. 

Tuesday. Breakfast — Oyster toast, veal sweet-breads, potatoes fried 
whole. Dinner — Mutton soup, mutton dressed with caper sauce, baked pota- 
toes, canned pease, celery, cranberry jelly ; cocoanut pudding, cake. Sup- 
per — Cold mutton, short cake with jam. 

Wednesday Christmas. Breakfast — Grapes and bananas, boiled oysters on 
toast, waffles with honey. Dinner — Raw oysters served with sliced lemon ; 
turtle soup ; baked fresh fish ; roast turkey garnished with fried oysters, 
mashed potatoes, Lima beans, pickled beets, mayonaise of chicken salad, 
celery, cheese ramakins, cranberry sauce ; Christmas plum pudding with 
rich sauce ; mince pie, sponge and lady cake mixed, pine-apple ice fancho- 
nettes, fruit and nuts. Supper or Luncheon — Curried oysters, Vienna rolls, 
slaw, apple trifle with whipped cream, lady fingers, cake. 

Thursday. Breakfast — Corn mufiins, oysterte in shell, croquettes of tur- 
key, potatoes. Dinner — Turkey soup, quail on toast, walled oysters, boiled 
onions, celery and slaw ; ice-cream, cake. Sujjper — Bread and milk, lemon 
fritters with sugar, rusk. 

Friday. Breakfast — Fried oysters. Duchess potatoes, waflies with maple 
syrup, baked apples. Dinner — Boiled fish with Hollandaise sauce, steamed 
potatoes, canned tomatoes, canned succotash ; queen of puddings. Supper — 
Fricassed oysters, slaw, celery, waffles and honey, canned pears. 

Saturday. Breakfast — Royal crumpets, broiled beefsteak, Lyonaise pota- 
toes, bread cakes with syrup. Dinner — Chicken soup, chickens dressed with 
parsley and egg sauce, potatoes, salsify, slaw ; hot apple pie with cream. 
Supper — Cold chicken, French rolls, apple sauce. 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 621 



TABLE OF ^WEiaHTS AND MEASTJFES. 

1 quart oatmeal weighs 1 lb. 

1 quart unsifted flour weighs 1 ft, 1 oz. 

1 quart sifted flour (well heaped) weighs 1 B> 

3 coffee-cups sifted flour (level) weigh 1 B). 

4 tea-cups sifted flour (level) weigh 1 lb. 

1 quart of sifted Indian meal weighs 1 lb 4 oz. 
2% cofi"ee-eups Indian meal (level) equal 1 qt. 
Z9i tea-cups Indian meal (level) equal 1 qt. 
\% pints of powdered sugar weigh 1 lb. 

2 cofi'ee-cups powdered sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 
2% tea-cups powdered sugar (scant) weigh 1 lb. 

1 pint granulated sugar (heaped) weighs 14 oz. 

, 1% coffee-cups granulated sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 

2 tea-cups granulated sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 

1 pint coffee "A" sugar weighs 12 oz. 

1% coffee-cups coffee "A" sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 

2 tea-cups coffee "A" sugar (well heaped) weigh 1 lb. 
1 pint of best brown sugar weighs 13 oz. 

1% coffee-eupa best brown sugar (level) weigh 1 lb. 
2% tea-cups best brown sugar (level) weigh 1 lb 

1 pint soft butter (well packed) weighs 1 ft, 

2 tea-cups soft butter (well packed) weigh 1 ft. 
Soft butter size of an egg weighs 2 pz. 

1 tablespoon of soft butter (well rounded) weighs 1 oz. 

4 tablespoons soft butter (well heaped) equal one tea-cisp. 

1 pint bread-crumbs weighs 7 oz. 

2 tablespoons bread-crumbs weigh 1 oz. 
14 tablespoons bread-crumbs equal 1 pint. 
1 quart finely-chopped suet weighs 1 ft. 

1 pint finely chopped raw meat, (well packed) weighs 1 lb. 
1 scant quart raisins, (before cleaning) weighs 1 lb. 
10 medium-sized or 8 large eggs weigh 1 ft. 
1 1-6 tablespoons rice weigh 1 oz. 

3 tablespoons sweet chocolate (grated) weigh 1 oz. 

1 tablespoon (well heaped) of common salt weighs 1 oz. 

5 tablespoons sifted flour or meal (heaping) equal 1 teacup. 

7 tablespoons granulated sugar(heaping) equal one teacup, 

2 tablespoons (well-rounded) of powdered sugar or flour weigh 1 oz. 

2 teaspoons (heaping) of flour, sugar or meal, equal 1 heaping tablespoon. 
1 tablespoon (well heaped) granulated coffee "A" or best brown sugar, 1 0& 
1 tablespoon soda (slightly heaping) weighs 1 oz. 

LIQUIfiS. 

4 teacupfuls equal 1 qt. 

8 tablespoons equal 1 gill. 

16 tablespooonfuls equal J^ pint. 

1 teacupful equals 8 fluid oz. or 2 gills. 



622 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



1 pint contains 16 fluid ounces (4 gills.) 

1 ounce contains 8 fluid drachms (^ gill.) 

1 teaspoon contains about 1 fluid drachm. 

1 tablespoon contains about J^ fluid ounce. 

A common-sized tumbler holds about Y^, pint. 

4teaspoonfuls equal one tablespoon or >4 fluid ounce. 

1 wine-glass full (common-size) equals 4 tablespoons or 2 fluid oz. 

A te'aspoonful (for brevity, teaspoon is used forteaspoonful in the recipes of this book) 
is equal in volume to 45 drops of pure water (distilled) at 60 deg. Fah. Teaspoons vary so 
much in size that there is a wide margin of difi'erence in containing capacity. 

AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 



16 drams (dr. make 1 ounce (oz.) 
16 ounces make 1 pound (ft.) 



25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.) 

4 quarters make 1 hundred weight (cwt.). 



2000 weight makes 1 ton (T). 



4 gills (gi.) make 1 pint (pt.) 
4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.) 



IQUID MEASURE. 
I 



2 pints make l|quart (qt) 



WEIGHTS OF ARTICLES. 



Apples, dried, bushel 25 pounds. 

Beef, firkin, 100 " 

Pork barrel, 200 " 

Beans, bushel, 60 " 

Butter, firkin, 56 " 

tub, 84 " 

Peaches, dried, bushel,33 " 

Fish, barrel, 200 " 

" quintal, 112 " 



Flour, barrel, net, 196 pounds. 
Honey, gallon, 12 " 
Molasses, hhd., 130 to 150 gallons, 
Salt, barrel, 3^^ bushels. 

" bushel, 70 pounds. 
Sugar, barrel, 200 to 250 pounds 
Soap, barrel, 256 " 

" box, 75 " 

Tea, chest, 60 to 84 " 



DINING-ROOM DOTS. 



623 



Dusmsra-ROOM dots. 




Fancy Wood Table Mats. — There are three sizes of table mats, made of 
Btripes of light and dark wood, alternating, and fastened to strong felt cloth. 
When not in nse they may be rolled up into a very small compass. The wood 
is very highly polished, and the effect is very pretty. They are very cheap, 
durable and decidedly ornamental. 

Place for Extension Leaves. — In arranging a sink in the butler's pantry or 
china closet, the bottom part of it may be utilized for the leaves from an ex- 
tension table, thus saving room and having them easy of access also. 

Crumb Brush and Pan. — The cut repre- 
sents a very neat and convenient crumb 
brush and pan for cleaning the table of 
crumbs after each course. A neat table is 
one of the accompaniments of a good dinner, 
and the debris of one course should be re- 
moved before the next makes its appear- 
ance. The curved form of the brush makes it easy to gather up the crumbs 
and sweep them into the pan. 

Closets for Bread and Cake Box. — Under the serving board placed at sido 
of china closet a nice cupboard may be made for the bread and cake box, 
and with the small board used for cutting bread etc., placed on top of the box 

^^11 II ^,.„.,.___„,,^,.___1IDl. ^^^ ^^® bread knife in a little drawer un- 

^ ^rJljglilifJjji^j^M B^S MBH^ ^^^ t^^ board, either bread or cake can 
" ii"iiTis^^^^^^a^^ ^Q served very easily. 

Knife and Spoon Box. — Knives and spoons 
ought to be daily counted and put away in box 
kept for the purpose. The cut represents a 
strong box, made of tin japanned on the out- 
side, an apartment on one side for knives and 
forks and on the other for spoons. The lids fit 
closely and are held in place by a hasp. This in- 
sures their keeping dry and free from dust, a matter of considerable import- 
f nee to the tidy housewife. 

A Convenient Crumb Cloth. — An easy way of having a crumb cloth is to 
t-ake two widths of the wide heavy striped linen, work button holes on one 
side of the width, and place buttons on one side of the other width to correB- 




624 



DINING-ROOM DOTS. 




pond with the holes ; then the widths can be placed under the table one at a 
time and buttoned down the center. Made in this way one can easily handle 
it alone, lifting one leg of the table and slipping the width under and so on, 
making it unnecessary to lift whole table at once ; or a cloth can be made in 
shape of a hollow square and buttoned on one corner and slip in in same way. 

Dish Warmer — This engrav- 
ing represents a dish-w a r m e r 
made of wire with feet so arrang- 
ed that it may be set on a stove. 
Nothing spoils a good breakfast 
or dinner so effectually as cold 
plates, but when placed in the 
oven to heat they are very likely 
to be left too long, and get too hot 
or if fine wares, are ruined by 
overheating. With this heater 
there is no danger of over heating, or injury. This may also be used as a 
dish drainer, and is equal to the best made especially for the purpose. 

Tea-table Ornament.— Two goblets, or any pretty glass dishes, heaped 
with lumps of ice, with a border of geranium or any green leaves, make a nice 
decoration for the ends of the table. 

Inexpensive Napkin Rings. — Cut piece of canvas size of napkin ring, only 
larger, so that when stitched together one end may overlap the other, and be cut 
in points or scollops. Work canvas with beads, worsted or silk, as fancy may 
dictate, leaving space for first name or initials. Line canvas with silk-covered 
cardboard and bind edges with bright ribbon to harmonize with embroidery. 

Paper Cases. — These are very much used now for Cheese Ramakins, Bis. 
cuitGlaces, Charlottes, Souffles, Ice-creams, etc., and are either round or 
square. Make the round ones as follows : Procure half a dozen sheets of cap 
or fine book paper not ruled, and make a pattern for the paper cases by fitting 
a band of paper to the outside of a very small tumbler, such as is used for 
Roman punch, or some similar small shape. The band of paper, when cut 
to fit, will form a curve. Cut as many such pieces as are needed from the 
sheets, fringe a quarter of an inch or less in 
depth. Make some corn starch paste very 
stifi", and paste the ends of the bands togeth- 
er, forming cup shapes, then cut around the 
edges, press the fringed bottom edges of the 
cup on the paste, the fringe bent outward, 
and the cups, when dry, are ready for use. 
For the square ones cut paper on the eight 
dark lines, then crease on every dotted line. 
At each end turn parts lettered A over that 
lettered B, so that the lines c rest on the 
line d, and one A overlaps the other. Now 
fold parts b up against backs of part A, and 
fold inward those parts of edges which are 
lightly shaded, and fold outward those which 

are heavily shaded. When this is finished square paper casea. 

stick the parts of the box together with white pf an egg mixed with a little 
flour. This makes a perfect box, and with a little practice one may become 
quite' an adept. By tracing a copy of diagram one obtains a good model one 
quarter of size case should be. 

Dustless Side-board. — ^Where one does not care for any fancy display of 
silverware and china, the best arrangement for a side-board is one built in 




DINING-ROOM DOTS. 625 



side of dining room, with the upper part divided off into divisions, some with 
shelves and some without according to the height of articles to be put away, 
and each enclosed with a glass door. In this way the silver makes a 
pretty ornament for the room and yet is protected from dust. The back of 
divisions, or little cupboards, may be lined with canton flannel of any color 
desired. The lower part of sideboard will be utilized for the china, having 
little cupboards with shelves according to heighth of dishes, and wooden 
doors. Between upper and lower cupboard can be drawers for the small sil- 
ver, and it is nice for spoons, knives and forks that do not come in boxes to 
have some of the drawers made as a Handy Drawer in the following manner ; 
have them two and a half or three inches deep and about a foot and a half 
wide ; cut a heavy pasteboard to fit inside and on it glue wooden strips made 
as in boughten boxes with grooves for the two ends of knives to fit in, also a 
single strip for table spoons, forks, etc., having in one drawer two strips for 
knives and one for teaspoons : in another two single strips for tablespoons ; in 
another two for forks, etc. Cut a piece of colored canton flannel, allowing 
for the amount that will be taken up, when fitted into the grooves, and place 
over the pasteboard, having first covered the wooden strips with glue, then 
press the flannel well into each groove and place the article intended for each 
place in it, letting it remain there till it ts dry. Proceed ia this way till all 
are finished and when dry put them in their placest 

Spoon Cupboard. — As near the stove or range as possible have a small 
cupboard, made of the same wood as kitchen is finished in, without any 
shelves. Have little screw hooks screwed in the back of it in rows, for large 
basting spoons, meat forks and any of the small articles used in cooking that 
can be hung up. At the bottom place the small knives and forks, and have 
a hollowed out shelf placed on bottom of the door, high enough up to shut in, 
for the table and teaspoons needed. This saves many steps and much time 
in fumbling through drawers. 

Baking Cupboard. — In the pantry have a cupboard without shelves, be- 
side the place used for baking, and in it have screw-hooks screwed on the 
sides and back, upon which to hang measures, egg-beater, cake paddles, and 
all small utensils used in baking. On the bottom keep the flavoring extracts, 
cook-book and anything else that cannot be hung up. Under this cupboard 
it is nice to have some small drawers for raisins, currants, boxes of spice, 
gelatine, etc., making them of difl"erent heights as wanted. 



ICBS AND ICE-CREAM UTENSILS. 



An Ice-cream freezer. 
A custard kettle. 
A wire strainer. 
A mortar and pestle. 
An egg-beater. 
A wooden paddle. 
A lemon squeezer, 
A tinned grater. 



A long handled iron spoon. 

A large boxwood spoon. 

A jelly bag. 

A crash strainer. 

A porcelain lined bowl 

A household scale. 

A set of measures. 

An Ice-cream mold. 



lU 



626 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 



G-AR]SriSTTES A'NID SAUCES. 



To garnish a dish well, adds very much to its appearance and the most 
simple dish can be made to appear much more appetizing when served, if 
surrounded by bits of parsley, or other green, or slices of eggs, pickles or 
vegetables. The time taken to garnish is only a moment or two if the gar- 
nish be a simple one, which should be the kind to use for every day, and one 
will be weH repaid for so doing. Of course a more elaborate garnish takes 
longer time in its preparation. Care must always be exercised in regard to 
the quantity used, as a too heavy garnishing really spoils the appearance of 
the dish. When vegetables are used for the garnishing the garnishing knife 

- ■-■ .. ,.. - r ^ — -^ flutes them nicely, adding much to their appear- 

\3 v-Hi-^-rwr^ ance. There are different ways of garnishing, but 

the general method is to surround the article and in giving the garnishes, 
unless otherwise mentioned, that is what is meant. The article is sometimes 
placed on a bed of the garnish and sometimes around a ^i&^''^^^''^'^^& 
mound of the latter, as illustrated, the chops surround- '^^^^/j 4? 
ing a mound of potatoes. In serving meats, game, etc., ^^^ ^^g 
it is also very essential to have an appropriate sauce or chops and Potatoes. 
gravy which will enhance the flavor of the article served, and we give below 
sucn garnishes and sauces as have been used by different cooks very success- 
fully, and one can select such as they wish or can prepare most easily. We 
also give some ways of preparing some of the garnishes although most of 
them are given in the first part of book. 

GARNISHES FOR CREAMS, ETC. 

For Bavarian Creams. — AVhipped cream. 

For Blanc Mange. — Boiled custard. 

For Lemon Jelly. — Parsley or smilax with a few forget-me-nots. 

For Ice-cream. Whipped cream ; a meringue or a spray or two of smi* 

lax with some delicate roses. 

For Orange Jelly. — Parsley, smilax or myrtle with garden pinks. 



GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 627 

For Coffee Jelly. — Some green with bright red geraniums or roses. 

For Dishes 0/ Fruit. — Geranium leaves ; rose leaves ; holly leaves and 
berries, artificial leaves may be used but natural leaves are much preferred. 
Where it is possible it is nice to have the leaves of the fruit, as of apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, etc. 

GARNISHES FOR FISH. 

For Eels. — Croutons ; fried parsley. 

For Boiled Cod. — Croutons ; potato patties. 

For Haddock. — Parsley and slices of lemon alternated. 

For Baked Fish. — Sliced hard boiled eggs, or egg pyramid. 

For Boiled White Fish. — Spoonfuls of grat.ed horse-radish or potato balls. 

For Boiled Fish. — Slices of lemon. 

For Fried Fish. — Parsley, celery, or lettuce. 

GARNISHES FOR MEATS. 

Boiled Bacon. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or brussels sprouts ; or place 
on a bed of boiled beans. 

For Boiled Beef. — Sliced cooked carrots, or turnips, whole glazed onions. 
Corned BeeJ {hot or cold) the same, or parsley, or the tender inside leaves of 
lettuce. 

For Broiled Beefsteak. — Ringed potatoes, squares of fried mush, sliced 
cucumbers, grated horse-radish, or place a poached egg on each piece. 

For Fried Cold Corned Beef.— Tickled gherkins. 

For Minced Beef {or any meats.) — Croutons. 

For Roast Beef. — Pieces of asparagus ; potato balls ; glazed onions ; or tufts 
of scraped horse-radish. 

For Stewed Beef. — Tufts of cooked cauliflower or braised cabbage ; force- 
meat or potato balls. 

For Boiled Tongue, hot or cold. — Potato roses; tufts of parsley and garnish 
the root with a paper frill . 

For Meat Hash. — Pickled cucumbers sliced in inch slices crosswise ; crou- 
tons or poached eggs. For White Meat Hash, fried oysters, or slices of lemon. 
Game Hash, chopped sweet herbs. 

For Baked Ham, — Border of beans and garnish knuckle with a paper frilj. 

For Boiled Ham. — Aspic jelly ; parsley, or flowers cut from vegetables. 

For Broiled Ham. — Poached eggs. 

For Fried Ham. — Fried eggs. 

For Breast of Lamb. — Cooked green pease around or under it. 

For Boiled Leg of Lamb. — Cooked cauliflower or spinach. 

For Braised Loin of Lamb. — Place on abed of either stewed pease, spinach 
or cucumbers. 



(J28 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 

Stewed Lamb. — Strew over with stewed mushrooms or green pease. 

For Lamb Chops. — Crisped parsley or place around a mound of mashed 
potatoes. 

For Lamb Cutlets. — Place chopped spinach in center. 
For Lamb Sweet-breads. — Water cresses ; tufts of parsley. 

For Boiled Neck of Mutton. — Slices of cooked carrots and turnips alter- 
nated ; or parsnips may be used instead of the latter. 

For Braised Leg of Mutton. — Braised onions. 

For Roast Nech or Loin of Mutton. — Little mounds of red currant jelly. 
Saddle of Mutton, same. Shoulder of Mutton, braised onions or baked toma- 
toes. 

For Boiled Leg of Pork. — Sliced cooked carrots, turnips or parsnips. For 
^alt pork, same. 

For Boast Pork or a Roast pig. — Baked apples. 

For Pork Chops. — Pickled gherkins, or slices of large pickled cucumbers 
cut crosewise. For Fried Salt Pork, same, or fried apples. For Fried Sausa- 
ges, same as above. 

For Pigs Feet Souse. — Slices of lemon. 

For Roast Veal. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls alternating. 

For Stewed Veal. — Force-meat balls ; rashers of broiled ham or bacon 
curled and fried ; boiled carrots sliced alternated with mounds of green pease ; 
or mushrooms and sorrel or spinach and endive. 

For Veal Cutlets or Chops. — Tender leaves of lettuce; olives; breaded 
rashers of pork, or same as for stewed veal. 

Veal Sweet-Breads.— On a bed of cooked pease. 
For Boiled Calfs Head. — Egg balls, or fringed celery 
For Calf's Liver. — Sliced lemon and force-meat balls, or sliced pickled 
beets. 

For Calf's Tongue .—As-pic jelly. 
For Curries. — Border of boiled rice. 

GAKNISHES FOR POULTRY, ETC. 

For Boiled Chicken. — Sliced hard boiled eggs alternated with tufts of 
celery or lettuce leaves ; or place on a bed of rice. 

Fricasseed Chicken. — Little mounds of boiled rice. 

Fried Chicken. — Fried oysters alternated with lemon points. 

Roast Chicken.— CrisT^ed parsley or stuffed tomatoes. 

For Boiled Turkey .—Same as for boiled chicken. 

For Roast Turkey. — Fried oysters, or sausages ; force-meat balls ; water- 
cresses. 

For Game. — Fresh or preserved barberries ; little mounds of currant jelly ; 
sliced oranges or lemons. 



GARNISHES AND' SAUCES. 629 



For Boiled Babbit. — Rashers of fried ham or bacon ; or parsley. 

For Boast Babbit.— A border of mashed potato ; force-meat balls : water- 
cresees, or slices of lemon. 

GARNISHES FOR SALADS. 

Cabbage Salad. — Sliced hard boiled eggs. 

Chickem Salad.— Sliced hard boiled eggs in rings alternated with sliced 
pickled beets or cucumbers. 

Lobster Salad. — Same as above with the coral arranged with it • or sur- 
round with a border of cray fish. 

Heat Salad. — Tender leaves of lettuce. 

Sardine Salad. — Small whole sardines, or lemon points. 

Salmon Salad. — Nasturtiums, buttercups, or wild roses. 

GARNISHES FOR VEGETABLES. 

For ArtichoJces. — Crisped parsley. 

For Asparagus on Toast. — Sliced hard boiled eggs. 

For Fried Stewed Cabbage. — Fried sausages. 

For Stewed Celery. — Croutons. 

For Greens. — Slices of tongue or hard boiled eggs. 

For Fried Potatoes.— -Tavsley sprinkled with grated lemon peel. 

For Stewed Peas. — Breaded rashers of bacon fried. This is also nice for 
beans, poached or fried eggs, and hashed calf's head. 

There are many other things that will prove a pretty garnish that we 
have not mentioned, such as carrot leaves, borage flowers, horse-radish 
flowers, nasturtium flowers, and many of the wild flowers may be used. la 
fact one can use almost anything by exercising good judgment as to amount 
used, and how, when and where. A rule for those most often used would be 
as follows : Parsley is the universal garnish for all kinds of cold meats, poul- 
try, fish, etc. Horse-radish for roast beef, and slices of lemon for roast veal 
and calf's head. Carrots in slices, for boiled beef, hot or cold. Sliced beet 
or hard boiled egg for cold meat and boiled beef. Mint either with or with- 
out parsley for roast lamb, either hot or cold. Pickled gherkins, capers or 
boiled onions, for boiled meats and stews. Lemon points for all salads. 
Pickled cucumbers sliced crosswise for fried pork, sausage, hash, etc., and 
olives- »re .very much used for all meats by those who like them. Where the 
garnishis an eatable one, a piece, slice, or bit is to be served with the article 
but if not, it remains on the dish. We give also some of the preparations of 
difierent garnishes. 

Lemon Points. — Cut fresh lemons in thin slices, and divide these slices 
into four parts. They are used as a garnish for salads and made dishes. 



630 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 

Egg Pyramids. — Take the inside of a stale loaf, cut into small pyramids 
with fiat tops, and on the top of each pyramid put rather more than a table- 
spoon of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over, this sprinkle finely chop- 
ped parsley and fine browned bread-crumbs. Arrange these on the napkin 
round fish, one green and ono brown alternating. 

Fried Bread for Borders. — Fry slices of bread cut in any fanciful shape. 
When quite crisp, dip one side into beaten white of an egg mixed with a little 
flour, and place it on the edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the 
border is completed, arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternating. 

Rashers of Pork. — Cut breakfast bacon very thin and in strips three or 
four inches long. Fry only long enough to become transparent, or thoroughly 
hot ; if cooked crisp it is ruined. Serve as a garnish, or laid over beefsteak, 
roast beef, game, etc. For Breaded Bashers of Pork, dip or roll the strips in 
fine bread crumbs (some first dip in beaten egg) then brown nicely. May 
be used as a garnish for meat or vegetables. 

Sorrel Garnish. — Sorrel is best plucked between May and October. Take 
about three pounds of sorrel, very fresh and green. Pick it nicely over and 
remove all stalks ; wash well and drain well on a wire sieve. Chop it for 
quite twenty minutes. Now put into stewpan that will hold about two quarts, 
tablespoon of flour and one and a half of butter. Stir over the fire for three 
or four minutes, and then put in gill of broth, and eight minutes after, an- 
other gill. Again stir over the fire for twenty minutes. Beat up three or 
four eggs with one half gill of milk, in a basin ; pour these on the sorrel, stir- 
ring rapidly for several minutes. It is then ready to use as a garnish 

Potato Patties. — Beat or grate to a fine flour three-fourths pound of mealy 
potatoes, making it moist with a small quantity of milk ; put this with two 
ounces of butter, melted and beaten to a cream. Boil one-half pint of milk, 
stir it quite boiling into the potato, and stir it, holding it above the fire, into 
a very smooth, fine paste. Stand it on the hob and mix into it two well- 
beaten eggs. Let the mixture become cool, when beat it up with the yolks 
of four eggs ; whisk the whites of these to a froth, and stir it carefully into 
the batter. Butter little patty shells fill with the batter and bake a deep 
gold yellow in a quick oven. Serve hot as a garnish with any nice dish of 
fish, fowl, etc. Or butter patty pans and sprinkle grated crumbs over them, 
then fill with the batter and bake as above. 

Paper Frills and Rosettes for Cutlets, etc. — Cut a sheet of note paper into 
Btrips two inches wide, and double them lengthwise, to make the width of a 
knife blade. Cut the double edge into fringe a quarter inch deep. Move the 
edges of the paper one higher than the other, and the fringe will be bov/ed 
out instead of lying flat. Fasten the edge that way with a touch of corn starch 
paste made very stiflf. Then roll the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil 
and fasten the end with paste — if to be slipped over the ends of frogs' legs ; 
but if for cutlet bones, or ham, or tongue ends of uncertain size wrap them just 
before serving, and a touch of the very stifl" paste will hold them in place. 

To Garnish a Ham or Tongue. — Make a glaze as directed in meats, and 
when it softens, as glue would do, brush over the meat, ham or tongue ; then 
when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen syringe 
or a stifl" paper funnel trace any design wished on the glazed surface ; this 
makes a very handsome dish, and if the ham has been properly boiled will bo 
very satisfactory to the palate. Or the glaze may be omitted and butter, lard, 
or savory jelly used, with syringe cone or funnel, just as icing is used, as de- 
scribed in Ornamental Icing in first part of book. 



GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 631 

To use butter or lard treat it in the same manner as directed for jelly in 
game place so as to get it just soft enough to pass through the cone. Be very- 
careful not to get it too soft or it will not stand. In warm weather add a little 
flour to stiffen it, but not too much, or it will not pass through the cone ; when 
ready fill cone with it, same as for icing, and use in same manner. This .or- 
namentation, with the addition of a little parsley, and a cut root flower or so, 
completes the operation of decorating the above named articles. They are 
sometimes further, or even altogether decorated or garnished with "sippets," 
(small pieces) cut diamond or triangular form, and consisting of toasted bread, 
aspic jelly, etc. ; but this style of garnishing is usually adopted only by those 
who are not competant to decorate or garnish with butter, lard or savory jelly, 
and who are not able to cut their own root flowers. Root flowers are usually 
cut in the forms of roses, tulips, dahlias, etc., from white and yellow turnips, 
beets, and carrots, and the edges of the leaves are usually tipped with pink 
color, such as liquid "cochineal." 

To cut root flowers, wash the roots, and for say a rose, take a good shaped 
turnip, pare it, cut in the proper shape, then with a sharp pocket knife 
(French root-flower cutters may be had of dealers in confectioner's supplies,) 
go all around the bottom edge, so ^^^ ; then repeat this oi^eration, so 
,-OCX, bringing the second cuts between the first, and holding the back of 
the knife blade from you and the edge towards you. This causes the cuts to 
meet at the bottom, and then by holding the knife point down, and running 
it all round inside the cut the piece falls out, leaving the leaves separate and 
distinct. Continue this until you reach the center, so ,OCX . A little prac- 
tice will assist you in this particular, and you will ^'-^^— ^ soon be able to 
make other flowers, as the principle is the same ; when the flowers are cut 
tip the edges as above. 

A Fan Garnish. — Slice small cucumbers very thin lengthwise, leaving 
them attached at the stem end and spread them open like little fans. These 
are nice for sliced cold meat, chicken or turkey. 

A Fancy Garnish. — Cut the breast of a cooked turkey or chicken into 
slices and then, either with a round tin cutter or a knife, cut these again into 
shapes ail alike. Make some mayonaise sauce with lemon juice, and mix 
with it nearly an equal amount of aspic jelly, barely warmed enough to melt 
it. Cover the slices of turkey in the dish with the mayonaise-jelly and set the 
dish in the refrigerator. Mince a slice of cooked blood-beet extremely fine 
and some parsley the same. Take up the slices of turkey on a fork, when the 
jelly is set quite firm, and dip the underside lightly into the minced parsley, 
and then into the beet, making them appear sprinkled over, and place as a 
garnish to a Turkey Galatine, or they make a nice dish in themselves, garnish- 
ing the edge with green, such as shred lettuce. 

Potatoes for Garnishing. — Take potatoes sufficient in number to decorate 
a dish : wash, peel and cut in any form fancied — whether balls, pine-apples, 
stars, diamonds, etc. ; let stand in salted water a little while, dry upon a 
towel, and place at bottom of saucepan, cover with clarified butter, bring 
quickly to boil, and then cook slowly till of a fine golden brown ; drain and 
fry lightly in frying pan with butter, adding a little veal glaze. Let them be ready 
just in time for the dish they are to garnish. Or mash and fry in spoonfuls in 
a fr3ing pan with drippings or a little butter, and place upon small collops of 
calf's liver or meat of any kind, or arrange them in a rim round a dish of 
fried sausages. Or for a Potato Border pare and boil fine medium-sized pota- 
toes, mash and beat with a large fork till light as a feather; add table 
spoon butter, teaspoon salt, yolks of two eggs, (the whites make it more dif- 
ficult to form in shape) and three-quarters of a gill of hot cream ; mix well, 
press the potato tightly in the crown mold and let stand fifteen minutes in 



632 GARNISHES AND SAUCES. 

a warm place ; then turn out carefully on platter, brush with Pastry Glaze, 
brown in oven and fill center with a ragout, f ricasee or whatever wished. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR GARNISHES. 

Garnishes should be used as freely as possible in the difTerent dishes, 
making the latter inviting to the eye as well as to the palate. Mutton cutlets, 
for instance, neatly arranged upon the same dish with green pease or toma- 
toes, appear far more attractive than when dished apart from the vegetables. 
Fish, cold meats, fowls, etc., can be charmingly decorated with sprigs of 
parsley, chopped carrots, and such-like trifles. A form of blanc mange 
in a glass disii surrounded by crimson preserves looks doubly tempting. A 
roast of beef surrounded with flowrets of cooked cauliflower, alternated 
with slices of red beet makes a handsome dish, and the variety of garnishes 
are as many as the ingenuity of the cook may devise. Some of the most 
common for small game are dried toasted bread, slices of lemon, parsley and 
currant jelly ; for larger game, such as wild duck, etc., cranberry sauce, ap- 
ple sauce, sliced lemons or oranges and parsley, and for a goose, nothing is 
nicer than baked apples. For prairie chicken, an easily prepared and pal- 
atable garnish is slices of fried salt pork. It is cooked with the chicken in- 
stead of butter or lard, thus giving the latter a delicious flavor, while the 
pork is also flavored with the chicken ; when served, a slice of pork accom- 
panies a piece of chicken. One should not fail to try this dish, as she will 
find the frying With Salt Pork to be quite an addition. 

SAUCES FOR FISH. 

For Baked Fish. — Egg or vinegar sauce. 

For Boiled Fish. — Hollandaise or liver sauce. 

SAUCES FOR MEATS. 

For Boiled Beef. — Apple, asparagus, chili, cucumber, curry or norse* 
radish sauce. 

For Boast Beef. — Celery, drawn butter, lobster, mushroom, mustard, 
parsley, pickle and shrimp sauce. 

For Stewed Beef. — Oyster sauce. 

For Fried Beefsteak. — Brown onion, cream or roux sauce. 

For Boiled Tongue. — Tartar sauce. 

For Boiled Lamb. — Anchovy or Hollandaise sauce. 

For Roast Lamb. — Chestnut or mint sauce. 

For Boiled Mutton. — Tomato or caper sauce. 

For Boiled Veal. — Celery sauce. 

For RoastVeal. — Mushroom sauce. 

SAUCES FOR POULTRY AND GAMS. 

For Boiled Chicken. — Bread or cauliflower sauce. 

For Roast Chicken. — Giblet sauce. 

For Boiled Turkey. — Lemon or oyster sauce. 

For Roast Goose. — Apple sauce. 

For Ducks. — Olive sauce. 

For Game. — White or rice sauce. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 633 



EXPLANATION OP FRHNCH TERMS USED IN MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY. 

Aspic. — A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, 
poultry, fish, etc. This, being of a transparent nature, allows the bird 
which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for decorating 
or garnishing. 

Assiette (plate). — Assiettes are the small entrees and hors d'xuvres, the 
quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert, fruitSv 
cheese, chestnuts, etc., if served upon a plate, are termed assiettes. Assiette 
Volante is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed 
upon the table. Small cheese souffles, and different dishes which ought to 
be served very hot, are frequently made assiettes volantes. 

Au-bleu. — Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance. 

"Augratin." — Dishes prepared with sauce and crumbs, and baked. 

Au Naturel. — Plain, simple cookery. 

Bain-marie. — An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in 
which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very 
useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or quality. H 
you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes 
too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces ; but this is prevented 
by using the bain-marie, in which the water should be very hot, but not 
boiling. 

"Baba.'' — A peculiar, sweet French yeast cake. 

Batterie de Cuisine. — Complete set of cooking apparatus. 

Bechamel. — French white sauce, now frequently used in cookery. 

"Bisque." — A white soup made of shell-fish. 

Blanch. — To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, etc., by plunging them 
into boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them into coLd 
water, there to remain until they are cold. 

Blanquette, — A sort of fricasse. 

"Bouchees" — Very tiny patties or cakes, as name indicates — mouthfuls. 

Bouilli. — Beef or other meat boiled ; but, generally speaking, boiled beef 
is understood by the term. 

Bouillie — A French dish resembling hasty-pudding. 

Bouillon. — A thin broth or soup. 

Bouquet of Herbs. — Parsley, thyme, and green onions, tied together. 

"Braise" — Meat cooked in a closely covered stew-pan, so that it retains 
its own flavor, and those of the vegetables and flavoring put with it. It is 
sometimes previously blanched. 

Braisiere. — A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top, 

Brider.— To pa-ss a packthread through poultry, game, etc., to keep to- 
gether their members. 

"Brioche" — A very rich, unsweetened French cake,imade with yeast. 

"Cannelon" — Stuffed, rolled up meat. 



634 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



Caramel (burnt sugar) . — This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size 
of a nut, browned in tlie bottom of a saucepan ; upon which a cupful of stock 
is gradually poured, stirring all the time, little by little. It may be used 
with the feather of a quill, to colour meats, such as the upper part of frican- 
deaux ; and to impart color to sauces. Caramel made with water instead of 
stock may be used to color compotes and other entremets. 

Casserole. — A crust of rice, which after having been molded into the 
form of a pie, is baked and then filled with a fricasse of white meat or a 
puree of game. 

Collops. — Small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish, beaten 
with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender. 

Compote. — ^A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. 

Consomme. — Rich stock, or gravy, or clear soup or bullion boiled down 
till very rich — i. e., consumed. 

Coulis. — A rich brown gravy, employed for flavoring, coloring, and 
thickening certain soups and sauces. 

Croquette. — Ball of fried rice and potatoes, or a savory mince of fish or 
fowl, made with sauce into chapes and fried. 

Croutons. — Sippets of bread. 

Croustades. — Fried forms of bread to serve minces or other meats upon. 

Daubiere. — An oval stewpan in which daubes are cooked ; daubes being 
meat or fowl stewed in sauce. 

Desosser. — To bone, or take out the bone from poultry, game, or fish. 
This is an operation requiring considerable experience. 

En Couronne. — Said of chops, cutlets, etc., when they are arranged round 
a central mass of vegetables, as mashed potatoes, or rice, which they ea- 
copapass after the manner of a garland or wreath. 

Entrees. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the first cours 

Entremets. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course. 

Feuilletage. — Pufi" paste. 

Flamber. — To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked. 

Foneer. — To put iu. the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin 
broad slices of bacon. 

Fondue. — A light preparation of melted cheese. 

Fondant. — Sugar boiled, and beaten to creamy paste. 

Fricassee. — Chickens, etc., cut in pieces, in a white sauce, with trufiies, 
mushrooms, etc., as accessories. 

Galette. — A broad thin cake. 

Gateau. — A cake, correctly speaking ; but used sometimes to denote a 
pudding, and a kind of tart. 

Gauffres. — A light spongy sort of biscuit, 

Glacer. — To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick and 
rich sauce or gravy, called glaze. This is laid on with a feather or brush ; 
and in confectionery the term means to ice pastry and fruit with icing which 
glistens on hardening. 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. (535 



Glaze. — Stock boiled down to the thickness of jelly and employed to im- 
prove the look of braised dishes. 

Gratin. — A French force-meat usually of poultry. 

Hollandaise Sauce. — A rich sauce, something like hot mayonnaise. 

Hors D' oeuvre . — Small dishes or assiettes volantes of sardines, anchovies 
and other relishes of this kind served during the first course. 

Lit. — A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers other 
articles or seasoning, being laid between them. 

Maigre. — Broth, soup or gravy made without meat. 

Marinade. — A liquor of spices, vinegar in which fish and meats are 
steeped without cooking, 

Maletole. — A rich fish stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels, or 
trout. It is generally made with wine. 

Mayonnaise. — A rich salad dressing or sauce. 

Menu. — Bill of fare. 

Meringue. — A kind of icing, made of white of eggs and sugar well beaten. 

Miroton. — Larger slices of meat than collops ; such as slices of beef for a 
vinargrette or ragout or stew of onions and dished in circular form. 

Mouilier. — To add water broth or other liquid during the cooking. 

Nougat. — Almonds candied. 

Pouer. — To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meat, or any ar- 
ticles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying pan. 

Pate. — A small pie. 

Piece De Resistance. — The principal joint of the dinner. 

Requer. — To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meats, etc. 
This should always be done according to the vein of the meat so that in 
carving you slice the bacon across as well as the meat. 

Poelee. — Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads 
fowls and vegetables, to render them less insipid. * 

Poulette Sauce. — A bechamel sauce, to which white wine and sometimes 
eggs are added. 

Puree. — ^Vegetables or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp which is af- 
terwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of thick 
soup. Sometimes the liquid is omitted. 

Ragout. — A rich, brown stew, with mushrooms, vegetables, etc. 

Remoulade. — A salad dressing difi'ering from mayonnaise, in that the eggs 
are hard-boiled, and rubbed in a mortar with mustard, herbs, etc. 

Rissoles. — Pastry made of light puff"-paste and cut into various forms and 
fried. They may be filled with fish, meat or sweets. 

Roux. — A cooked mixture of butter and flour, for thickening soups aad 
ntews. There is both the brown and white. 

Salmi, — A rich stew of game, previously half roasted. 



636 KITCHEN WRINKLES. 



Sauce Fiquante. — A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar or 
lemon flavor predominates. 

Sunter.— To dress witli sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about. 

Stock. — The broth of which soups are made. 

Souffles. — A very light, much-whipped-up pudding or omelette. 

Tammy. — Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain 
broth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, etc. 

Timbale. — A sort of pie in the mold. 

Tourte. — Tart, Fruit pie. 

Trousser. — To truss, a bird ; to put together the body and tie the wings 
and thighs in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being tied with 
sti'ong thread or held by skewers, to keep it in required form. 

Vol-au-vent. — A rich crust of very fine puff paste which may be filled 
with various delicate ragouts or fricassees offish, meat, or pork. Fruit fresh 
or preserved may also be enclosed in a vol-au-vent. Small vol-au-vents are 
made as tarts. 

Cider Vinegar can be made easily and quickly if the following directions 
are followed : When cider is made, save the pomace and put it in tight bar- 
rels or hogs-heads, with one head out, and put in enough rain water to cover 
it. After it has begun to ferment, draw off from the bottom all that you can, 
dilute the cider with it, and nearly two barrels of vinegar can be made of one 
of cider. Do not fill barrels in which the cider vinegar is to be made quite full, 
as there should be a space for air. Put into each barrel one or two pounds of 
bread dough, in the condition it is in when kneeding out into loaves. Once 
a day, for a few weeks, draw out from each barrel a gallon of the cider and 
pour it into the bung-hole, so as to get air into it. A quart or two of molasses 
are recommended as a help, and beech shavings and brown paper are often 
used to hariten the acetic fermentation ; but we think the bread dough is best. 
If the vinegar is made in summer, it may be made out of doors ; but late in 
the fall it should be in a room where the temperature can be kept up to 70 or 
80 degrees by stove heat. 

Corn Vinegar. — Boil one pint shelled corn in one gallon rain water till the 
grains burst, put it in a stone jar with the water in which it was boiled, add- 
ing sufficient rain water to make a gallon. Add pint of syrup (sugar cane is 
best as it is not so likely to be adulterated) and tie a piece of cheese cloth, 
or two thicknesses of mosquito netting over jar. Keep in a warm place one 
month, then pour off vinegar in a jug, putting in half the mother and it is 
ready for use. More can be made of same corn, by covering it with rain water 
adding the half of the muther and a gill of syrup and let stand as above one 
month. Tie a thin cloth over jug of vinegar instead of corking it and keep in 
a dry place not too cold. This costs about seven cents a gallon and is said to 
be richer and better flavored than the best cidar vinegar and is equally good 
for most purposes. 

Economical Vinegar. — After washing the fruit, discarding all that is rot- 
ten, place the peelings of apples, pears, peaches or quinces in a stone crock. 
if you use any crab apples, put them in too; boil pure rain water and pour 
hot over them ; if in cold weather they can stand several weeks then place 
in a porcelain kettle, covering them with water to the depth of two inches ; 
set on stove, let them boil for half an hour, strain through a collender, let the 
juice stand until it settles, then add enough molasses to make a pleasant 
taste ; now pour it into the keg or vinegar barrel that has been prepared with 
a hole for faucet in the end of the barrel at the lower side, made the size of 
faucet; it should be one inch from the stave, so that it can be easily cleansed 



KITCHEN WRINKLES. 637 



with a wet cloth wrapped around the finger and passed under the faucet. 
The bung hole ought to be in the upper side of barrel equally distant from 
each end. Take cork out of bung hole, or if none in barrel make one, and 
cover it with a piece of mosqueto netting or other very thin material ; paste 
can be put around the hole, and the cloth put on it, or tack it on with small 
tacks — either will do, for you have to lift up one corner so as to place the fun- 
nel In when you wish to add more juice. Here in Minnesoto, many apples 
are used in the winter. All the pealings and cores can be saved, by placing 
them in a crock, pouring water over them, keeping them until crock is full. 
Then boil and proceed as above. Add one pint alcohol to eight or ten gallons 
of juice, or if you can get boiled cider add one gallon of that. If starting the 
vinegar in ihe fall while making jelly, marmalade, etc., save all the waste 
juices, place in a crock and add to the vinegar. If you can get a little "mother" 
from an old keg of vinegar, it helps start it more quickly, or put a cup of good 
sponge made ready for bread into a four gallon jar of juice, letting jar stand 
in the sun with a thin cloth tied over it for a few weeks ; then pour into keg. 
In putting the juice into keg let some of the settlings run in, as this furnishes 
yeast for the vinegar. If you have a large quantity of juice to start with, a good 
proportion is to eight or ten gallons of juice take one gallon of molasses, one 
pint alcohol. If at any time it needs more sweet, you can add molasses. 
Cold tea can be added, but never coffee, as that makes the color too dark. 
After the meal is over, fill the teapot with hot water, set on stove to steep ; 
when sufficiently steeped pour into the vinegar. The excellence of the vine- 
gar is that you know all the ingredients in if, and of every apple that is eatea 
the peeling can be used. Teach the help to save all the peelings when she 
makes apple or peach sauce, and even when one or two apples are pared save 
the peeling. 

A young housekeeper once had half a barrel of excellent vinegar, which 
her husband had brought from the store. As it was old and had many set- 
tlings in it, she thought she would cleans it, so pouring it out, she rinsed her 
barrel thoroughly with hot water, then strained the vinegar through a flan- 
nel cloth, and replaced it in the barrel. Some time afterward she drew out 
some of the vinegar, but it had lost all its good taste and was covered with a 
white scum. She was sorely vexed, but an old friend coming in at the time, 
told her she had thrown away the life of the vinegar. Had she kept some of 
the settlings (which is the yeast of the vinegar) and the mother, putting them 
in the barrel when she replaced the vinegar, all would have been right. Hap- 
pily her friend had plenty of old vinegar and gave her a pail of settlings and 
mother to add to the vinegar. In years mother will accumulate, so that it is 
necessary to throw some away. In such cases always keep some of the large 
pieces of mother and some of the floating particles (a funny writer has called 
this the father), and some settlings to put in the vinegar, after it is returned 
to the barrel. While the vinegar is making it should never be more than half 
full ; after it is good vinegar small quantities of juice, either hot or cold, can 
be added until the barrel is two- thirds full. A better way is to have a second 
keg into which pour the fresh juices with a little molasses, (but no alcohol), 
and as the good vinegar is used out of the barrel it can be replenished from 
keg. Or, having no keg, draw oS" one or two gallons or good vinegar into a 
jug for immediate use, then add the fresh juices, as you may have it, to bar- 
rel. By the time vinegar in jug is used all will have become good in barrel 
and ready for use. These things remembered and practiced will always in- 
sure good vinegar. Sometimes vinegar barrel will leak around the chine, 
when it is inconvenient to change barrel. To stop the leak, take equal parts 
of tallow (beef or mutton) and wood ashes. Mix well (in cold weather you 
may have to warm the tallow) , then with a narrow bladed knife spread it 
sround the chine, pressing it firmly into the crack and making it smooth on 
Buriace.lsuThis has. kept ^vinegar, from leaking for months and years. If 



638 FRUIT. 

wanted extra nice clarify molasses by heating it over the fire and pour in one 
pint of sweet milk to e;ich gallon of molasses. The impurities rise in scum 
to the top, which must be skimmed ofl" before the boiling breaks it. Add 
tlie milk as soon as molasses is placed over the fire, mixing thoroughly 
with it. 

Gooseberry Vinegar.— 'Mash, two pecks quite ripe gooseberries in a tub 
with a mallet and add six gallons water, about milk warm ; let stand twenty* 
four hours, then strain through a seive, add twelve pounds sugar stix well, 
and put in nine gallon cask ; if not quite full mure water must be added. Stir 
the mixture from bottom of cask two or three times daily for three or four 
days, to assist the melting of the sugar ; then paste a piere of linen cloth over 
the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, hul not in the sun ; any cor- 
ner of a v/arm kitchen is the best place for it. The following spring it would 
be drawn off into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve 
months after it is made. This will be found a most excell?nt preparation, 
greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine 
vinegar. Many years' experience has proved that pickle made with this 
vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients. 
The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who have their 
own truit. Let remain in cask nine months. 

White Pepper. — This is better to buy than the black. It is the produce 
of the sajne plant as that which produces the latter. 

FRUITS. 

Apple s.^-The varieties of apples are almost innumerable, and some 
kind can be bad almost the entire year. First fruit received in the north 
comes from Tennessee about June 1st. Southern Illinois furnishes some 
June 15th, and from this time apples are ripening in all sections of country. 
Early apples are Red Junes, Early Harvest — both tart — Maiden Blush, Red 
Streaks, Strawberries, Porters, Golden, Ben Davis and Pippins. Pippins 
are good for pies and also for eating. Later in the fall the Rhode Island 
Greening is the best for cooking. None of our fruits are brought to such per- 
fection, or may be preserved with such ease through the winter. The best 
eating apples are the Spitzenberg, Bell-flowers, Ben Davis, Northern Spy, 
Winter Pippin, Red Astrakan, Greening, Vandevere, Pound Sweet, Roxbury 
Russets and Willow Twigs. 

Applen to Keep. — For keeping late in spring the Baldwins, Northern Spy, 
Greenings and Win ^ Saps are good ; our experience being in favor of the last 
named. The Ben Davis and Bell-flowers are good cooking apples yet the lat- 
ter can generally be bought without specifying the kind. The hard acid 
kind, aie unwholesome if eaten raw ;but by the process of cooking the great- 
est part of the acid is decomposed and converted into sugar, a process which 
takes place naturally in the sweet kinds, as the fruit ripens. As more than 
half of the substance of apples consists of water, and as the rest of the ingre- 
dients are not of the most nutritive kind, this fruit, like most fruits, is less of 
a nutrient than a luxury, and an aid to digestion. When cooked they are 
slightly laxative, and therefore a useful adjunct to other food. They are 
nice cooked without paring them. Wipe clean, nearly cover with water, 
add a little sugar, and stew until tender, then put in a slow oven and bake 
until brown. The peel of the apple imparts a rich flavor. Apple sauce 
made in the usual way, after being sufficiently stewed, if put into a slow 
oven and baked an hour or so is greatly improved. 

Grapes. — These ripen according to locality, from the Ist of September 
until November, and, when carefully kept, a month or two longer. We 
have also the luiscioas foreign grapes, raised in hot and cold graperies from 



FEUIT. 639 

April until December, among which are the Black Hamburgh, White Mus- 
cat, White Sweetwater, Tokays, etc. The Syrian, a white species produces 
the largest clusters. The White Malaga, of foreigm growth, is found 
throughout the winter where imported fruits are kept. Fox or tvild grapes 
are abundant from the middle of August to November ; they are round and 
soft, with a pleasant, tart taste, and are used for pies, preserves, etc. 

Lemons. — Are fruit that keep well and may be had almost any season of 
the year, but are more plenty and cheaper in the Spring. Messina Ijemons 
are the best. Little success has been bad raising lemons in Florida, better 
in California, but the Messina has for many years been considered the best. 

Oranges. — California Riverside oranges are the cleanest and finest fruit 
raised; but the finest oranges that are shipped to Northern cities are from 
Florida. They begin to pick them about November and the crop is all 
marketed by February first. California fruits are picked *in December and 
the bulk is marketed in March and April ; the fruit is plentiful and stays 
on trees until March or April in perfect condition. Can be had in market 
until late in June. The finest variety of all oranges is the Navel which 
is luscious, sweet and without seeds. The Paperskins, and Budded or 
Grafted oranges are also good. Fruit from Los Angeles, Santa Anna, and 
San Bernardino is inferior to that from Riversides because of the Ocean fogs 
blackening them while on the tree, and the process of cleaning brushing, 
etc., injuKes them, and they do not keep so well. The importation of 
Messinas begins in March, and after May the market is supplied largely with 
this fruit. This was formerly considered the finest fruit, but it has lost its 
prestige and importation at present time are not over one-third what they 
were. Lousiana oranges come late in the season— October and November, 
but are not considered as good as the other varieties ; large and yellow, 
but coarse, inferior and apt to have strong seeds, peculiar sour bitter taste, 
etc. Some seasons the fruit matures better than others and is quite palat- 
able. 

Peaches.— This fruit can be grown in about any temperate climate and 
is raised from Gulf of Mexico to Illinois, Indiana and Ohio, and can be ob- 
tained from middle of May to first of October. First comes from Mississippi, 
as they begin to pick May 1st. From Tennessee 10th to 15th of June ; South- 
ern Illinois, July 1st; California, July 1st; Michigan, August 15; Mary- 
land, August 15th. California and Mississippi fruit do not rank high on ac- 
count of being picked green for distant shipments. No really fine peaches 
are obtained until the Maryland and Michigan crop come in. These peaches 
are harder and will stand longer shipments and are considered one of the 
finest fruits. 

Pears. — May be had from July until well into the winter. The finest of 
this fruit comes from California, although some fine pears may be had from 
Western New York and Northern Ohio. 

Salads.— ¥oT these procure mustard and cress, borage, chervil, lettuce, 
parsley, mint, purslane, chives, burnet, nasturtium leaves and buds, fennel, 
sorrel, tarragon, corn salad, dandelions, chicory, escarole, water cresses, 
green onions, celery, leeks, lettuce, very young spinach leaves, the tender 
leaves of oyster plant, fresh mushrooms, young marshmallow shoots, and the 
fresh sprouts of winter turnips ; also radishes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage, 
very young turnips, green peppers, and fresh tomatoes.^ Salad vegetables 
which can be cooked and allowed to cool and then made into salads, are po- 
tatoes, beets, carrots, cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, kohl-rabi, artichokes, 
string beans, green peas, asparagus, Brussel sprouts, spinach, dried haricot 
beans, Lima beans, lentils, and leeks ; among the fruits are apples, pears, 
oranges, lemons, muskmelons, currants, gooseberries and barberries. 



640 



FRUIT. 



Raising Tomato Plants. — Take building paper (any thick paper will do) , 
cut in pieces eleven. inches long and three wide ; lay one end over the other 
and fasten ; and fill with dirt after setting in a dish, (an old waiter is good). 
Put only one seed in a cup and when large enough to transplant, cut the 
thread which holds the cup together and set the cup with the dirt and plant 
in the ground, leaving the cup around the plant to keep cut worms away. 

Vegetables. — Put into a vessel of any kind, and then pour on a solution of 
one ounce of salicylic acid to four gallons of pure soft, cold water with one 
pound salt. All Salad Vegetables, such as lettuce, celery, etc., keep best 
in a cool dark place ; it is not necessary to keep them in water ; in fact it is 
undesirable ; after they are well washed they should be loosely wrapped in 
a wet cloth and laid on or near the ice in the refrigerator : if there is no ice 
they can be fairly well preserved by the following method ; in a wooden or 
heavy pasteboard box lay a large towel entirely saturated with cold water, 
and after the salad is washed wrap the towel about it to exclude the air, close 
the box, and keep it in a cool, dark place. Every night and morning wash 
the salad ; removing all decayed leaves, wash the towel in clean, cold water 
without wringing it, and again wrap the salad in it, and put it away in the 
box. In this way the most delicate salad vegetables may be kept fresh, for 
several days, even in summer. 




IE 



"LL 



Fruit Shelves, made of slats two inches 
wide and placed one inch apart, should be put 
up with equal care and neatness, and with 
equal regard for convenience and easy access. 
Their place should be the most airy part of the 
cellar; the proper width is about two feet, 
and the distance apart about one foot, with 
the lowest shelf one foot from the floor. 
Pears will ripen nicely on the lower shelves 
under a cover of woolen blankets. The sup- 
port should, of course, be firm and strong. The bottom shelf should be 
of one board, on which to scatter fine fresh lime to the depth of an inch, 
changing it two or three times during the winter. Or pack in grain, bar- 
ley, etc., so they will not touch, or if fruit is fine, wrap each apple in 
paper and pack in boxes, or glazed jars with covers. Or when packed 
right from the tree, hand pick them and put them in dry flour barrrels, 
pressing them down closely and heading them up. Let them stand un- 
der a shed until cold weather sets in, and then remove to a dry cellar, 
or some place where they will not freeze. Care must be taken that none 
but perfect fruit is barreled. Another method is to sprinkle a layer of saw- 



THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 641 

dust, not that from resinons woods, on bottom of a box, and then a layer of 
apples placed in so that they do not touch each other. Upon this place a 
layer of saw-dust, and so on till the box is filled. The boxes, after being 
packed in this way, place in the cellar up from the ground, where they will 
keep perfectly, retaining their freshness and flavor until brought out, or any 
grain as oats, barley, etc., may be used or paper thus used will keep them 
nicely either in box or barrel, After apples are opened it is well to look 
them over, handling them very carefully, once or twice a month, removing 
all the least imperfect. 

The following wholesale way where there is plenty of material, is as fol- 
lows ; Buckwheat chaff is first spread on the barn floor, and on this chaff the 
apples are placed, when they are covered with chaff and straw two or three 
feet in thickness. Let remain till spring. It would be better to make layers 
of apples and chaff or be careful to flU all the interstices well with chaff. 
The covering and bedding in chaff has several important advantages — it ex- 
cludes cold, prevents air currents, maintains a uniform temperature, absorbs 
the moisture of decay, and prevents the decay produced by moisture 

Cranberries — will keep all winter in a keg of water, changing water twice 
a week ; or place them in tub or keg, without water, let them freeze and 
keep them frozen. When any are wanted to use, put them in a little cold 
water and cook at once. Or a safer way is to can them when purchased, 
sweetening to taste, and then if any are wished sweeter or "jellied" forcom- 
pany, sugar can be added and fruit cooked longer when can is opened. 

Fruit. — Take fruit as soon after being picked as possible, see that it is 
sound and clean, pack it tightly into the jar, bottle or keg ; shake it down 
well so as to completely fill the vessel, then pour on the following solution: 
36) o grains of salisylic acid to six ounces of white sugar and one quart of pure, 
soft, cold water. 

That fruit can be preserved for a long time in a frozen state, and even in 
a non-frozen state, so loi;g as the temperature does not exceed 32 deg., is a 
well-known fact. But it is equally well known that articles so preserved lose 
flavor every day after they are so stored, and that when exposed afterward 
to an ordinary temperature they perish almost immediately. In placing fruit 
on ice, the main thing to observe is not to pack it in any way or to wrap it in 
anything. It should be placed on a tray or in a tin box with a lid to keep off 
drip, but each fruit should be set out singly by itself and not come in contact 
with its neighbors, and great care should be used to prevent bruising, as that 
will greatly hasten decay when the fruit is taken out. It is not needful to 
bury the boxes quite in the ice ; but they may be set in it with the lid of the 
box above the surface, so that all of the fruit can be got without trouble. 
Peaches, nectarines, melons, pineapples, figs, and other soft fruits that do 
not keep long, succeed best i)reserved in this manner. 

Gath&ring Fruit. — The right time is just as they are beginning to fall 
from the trees. Observe when the apples and pears are ripe, and do not 
pick them always at the same regular time of the year, as is the custom with 
many. A dry season will forward the ripening of the fruit, and a wet one 
retard it, so that there will sometimes be a month's difference in the proper 
time for gathering. If this is attended to the fruit will keep well, be plump, 
and not shrivelled, as is the case with all fruit that is gathered before it is 
ripe. The mode of gathering is to give them a lift, so as to press away the 
stalk, and if ripe they readily part from the tree. Those that will not come 
off easily should hang a little longer ; for when they come off hard they will 
not be so fit to be stored, and the violence done at the foot-stalk may injure 
the bud there formed for next year's fruit. Let pears be quite dry when pull- 
ed, and in handling avoid pinching fruit, or in any way bruising it, as thosQ 
41 



642 THE CELLAR AND ICE-HOUSE. 

~ 

which are hurt not only decay themselves, but presently spread infection to 
those near them ; when suspected to be damaged, let them be carefully kept 
from the others, and used first ; as gathered, lay them gently in shallow bask- 
ets. When possible gather in the middle of a di*y day. Plums readily part 
from the twigs when ripe ; they should not be much handled, as the bloom is 
apt to be rubbed off. Apricots are ready when the side nex;t the sun feels a 
little soft upon gentle pressure with the finger ; they adhere firmly to the tree, 
and would over-ripen on it and become mealy. Peaches and nectarines, if 
moved upwards, and allowed to come down with a slight jerk, will separate, 
if ready ; and they may be received into a tin funnel lined with catnton flannel, 
so as to avoid touching with the fingers or bruising. A certain rule for judging 
of the ripeness of figs is to notice when the small end of the fruit becomes of 
the same color as the large end. The most transparent grapes are the most ripe. 
All the berries in a bunch never ripen equally ; it is therefore proper to cut a- 
way the unripe or decayed berries before presenting the bunches at table. 
Autumn and winter pears are gathered, when dry, as they successively ripen. 
Immature fruit never keeps so well as that which nearly approaches maturity. 
Winter apples should be left on the trees till there be danger of frost ; they 
are then gatheied on a dry day. 

Grapes. — They must not be too ripe. Take ofi' any imperfect grapes from 
the bunches. On the bottom of a keg put a layer of bran that has been well 
dried in an oven or in the sun, then a layer of grapes, with bran between 
the bunches, so that they may not be in contact. Proceed in the same way 
with alternate layers of grapes and bran, till the keg is full ; then close the 
keg so that no air can enter, or use paper, never newspapers, instead of bran 
and cover all with several folds of paper or cloth. Nail on the lid and set in 
a cool room where it will not freeze. Use small boxes so as not to disturb 
more than wanted to use in a week or so. Give each bunch plenty of room 
so they will not crowd. The grapes should be looked to several times during 
the winter. Should any mold or decay remove them and repack the good 
ones again. A warm day is considered the best time to gather if you live 
neath your own "vine and fig tree" and some place them in a cool shady 
place for two or three days, then pack as above, and pasteboard boxes can be 
used. Others cut off the end smoothly from the vine and dip in melted seal- 
ing wax, so that no air can get in or juice run out, let stand a day to see if 
perfectly sealed, (if not they will shrivel up) then pack in boxes as above, 
with either bran, sawdust (dry), cotton batting or paper, with the latter 
sometimes wrapping each bunch separately ; or a barrel hoop suspended from 
the ceiling by three cords, from which grape stems are hung by means of wire 
hoqks attached to the small end, sealing the other with hot sealing-wax, each 
stem free from contact with its neighbors, is said to be the best contrivance 
for keeping grapes. The imperfect grapes must be removed, and the room 
must be free from frost, and not dry enough to wither them or too moist. The 
simplest way to keep grapes is to place them in drawers holding about twenty- 
five poundr each, piling the boxes one over another. A few 
fine clusters for special table purposes may be preserved by 
cutting the bunches late in the season, but in good condition 
and on a piece of the vine. Wax one end of the stem and 
put the other through a cork into a vial of water containing 
a layer of charcoal ; make the cork around the vine tight 
with beeswax ; then place the whole in a cool room with an 
even temperature. The Chinese Method consists in cutting a 
circular piece out of a ripe pumpkin or goard, making an 
aperture large enough to admit the hand. The interior is 
then completely cleaned out, the ripe grapes are placed in- 
side, and the cover replaced and pressed in firmly. The 




HOW TO USE MEATS. 



643 



HO^^^ TO USE MEATS. 



1. Represents the rump or upper part of hind leg, good for pot roasts ; 
beef a la mode ; corned beef and rump roasts, also makes splendid soup ; 
12>2 cts. Prices vary but are relatively the same. 

2. The "round," the under part of which makes steaks, the outside 

lean soup meat or good corning pieces, or the 
whole is very choice for dried beef; 15 cts. 

3. The "shank," of which the upperpart 
is the muscle of the leg, solid meat and good 
for soups ; 12}4 cts. 

4. "Rump steaks"; 16 cts. 5. "Veiny 
piece" for dried beef and corning; 14 and 15 
cts. 6. Sirloin steaks ; 18 cts. 

6 and 8. Between these numbers over the 
thigh joint are the tenderloin steaks ; 20 cts. 

7. The flank for curing or etews 6 cts., 
and in it lies the flank steak, best and juciest 
steak there is ; when purchasing it do not have 
it scored as is usually done ; just remove fat 
and skin ; 12>o cts. 

8. Porterhouse steaks, those lying next to 
tenderloin steaks being the best, of course ; 18 
cts. Cutting the steaks in this way a part of 
the tenderloin, the most tender bit of the beef, 
lies in the sirloin, and a smaller part in the 
upper part of the porterhouse steak. The low- 
er half of the cut gives us the 

FORE-QUARTER. 

1. Rib piece for boiling or corning. 

2. Plate piece for corning ; 8 cents fresh. 

3. Shank for soup bone , weighs 10 pounds ; 
35 cents entire. 

4. Lower part of the division are shoulder 
pieces for stewing and pot roasts ; 10 cents. 
Upper part used for same purpose, but better 
pieces of meat; 12>^ cents. In the upper 
part of 4, between 4 and 8 is what is called the 
shoulder joint for soup meat ; 10 cents a piece. 

4. In the end of four next 1, is the "shoulder clod" which makes No. 
1 pot roasts ; 12>'2 cents. 

5. Rib roasts ; first cut and best, 15 cents. 

6. Rib roasts; second cuts, 14 cents. , ,,- 

7. Chuck rib roasts first next to rib roast and best, 14 to 15 cents. 

8. Upper part, or next 7, are shoulder roasts, generally used for pot- 
roasts ; 12)^ cents. . . 

8. Front part is the neck, good for stews, mince, cornmg and soup 

meat; Scents. , , , „ »,, . , 

9. The brisket, extending under the shank (3). This makes stews, 
braises, corned beef, etc; 8 cents. 




g^^ CUEING MEATS. 



Curing Meats. 



The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to un- 
derstand. By its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices 
from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution 
with the water contained in the juice, ^ud the meat then absorbs the sat- 
urated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt. In this way, mat- 
ter incapable of putrefaction takes the place of that portion in the meat 
which is most perishable. Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a 
means of preserving meat ; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the 
fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the 
substance of the meat. The last mentioned operation of salt as an antisep- 
tic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. 
The astringent action of saltpetre on meat is much greater than that of salt, 
and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard ; but in small 
quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also pre- 
vents the destruction of the florid color of meat, which is caused by the ap- 
plication of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, 
that the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a considerable de- 
gree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; 
and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as pos- 
sible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat. In salting or 
pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not being generally required 
to be kept for a great length of time, a less quantity of salt and a larger 
quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may 
be employed, which could not be adopted by the curer of immense quantities of 
meat. Sugar, which is well known to possess the preserving principle in a 
very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, may be, 
and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat for family consump- 
tion. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting the fibres of 
nieat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not impair its 
mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative effect, with- 
out the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavor not agreeable to 
the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together with salt, 
with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness to cured 
meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the mixture ; and, 
perhaps, now that sugar is much lower in price than it was in former years, 
one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is removed. 

Philadelphia Hams. — Lay hams to be cured on a slanting board, and rub 
witli fine salt. Let them lay forty-eight hours ; then wipe off the salt with a 
dry towel, and to each ham take a teaspoon of powdered saltpetre and a 
dessertspoon of coarse brown sugar and rub well to the fleshy parts ; then 
pack in a tub, skins down ; sprinkle between each layer with a little fine salt. 
In five days cover them with a pickle made as follows : To one gallon of 
water take one and a half pounds of coarse sugar. Let them lay five, six or 
seven weeks, according to size. Hang them up to dry several days before 
smoking. The pickle should stand and be skimmed, and must be cold. 

Pickled Pork. — Some put it up successfully in this way. Take a tub, large- 
est at the bottom and tapering to the top, large enough to hold the year's 
supply ; when packed as it should be, the meat will not rise to the top, the 



CURING MEATS. 645 



slant of the tub holding it down. It should be packed edgewise, in regular 
layers, as solid as possible. After putting a layer of salt in the bottom of 
the tub and pounding down the meat with a maul, fill the interstices with 
salt ; then alternate layers of meat and salt till the tub is full. Fill up with 
pure water. If the barrel is sweet, the salt pure, the meat sound, there will 
be no damaged pork, nor will skimming and scalding the brine be necessary 
to have sweet pork the year round. For putting down a small amount in a 
stone jar, completely cover the bottom of a large stone jar (one that will 
hold five or six gallons or more) with salt. Cut side meat in strips four or 
five inches wide and pack in a jar on the edge placing the skin next the jar ; 
lay it round close as possible till the bottom of the jar is full, cover this com* 
pletely with salt, and so on till the jar is full. Then make a brine strong 
enough to bear an egg ; pour over meat till it is covered. Meat if put up this 
way will keep till late in fall and taste nearly as nice and sweet as fresh meat. 
Trying Lard. — When the leaf lard is taken from the hog, it should be 
placed in a clean tub. If any pieces are bloody they ought to be placed in 
lukewarm water, letting them remain until thoroughly cleansed, then drain 
well and use with the other lard. The leaf lard can be cut up in pieces an 
inch square. Have kettle on fire on stove with a little water, to which add 
the cut up lard, letting it heat gradually ; stir with a wooden stick (hickory 
or maple) or a long handled iron spoon. The fat pieces of meat, which are 
also used for lard, are cut in same manner, after taking off" the skin, and 
added to the leaf lard in kettle. The skins should be laid by themselves to 
be tried out after the lard is done. While the lard is trying^ as soon as the 
water is all boiled out, which can be told by the clearness of the fat (when 
there is water, it has a slightly milky appearance) you can begin dipping off 
the clear lard and straining it into the vessels ready for its use (stone crocks 
are best). Some think the quality of the lard is improved by sprinkling 
over and slowly stirring in one tablespoon of soda to every five gallons of 
lard, just before removing from the fire. After adding soda, the kettle must 
be removed from the stove, and watched closely, and stirred constantly, as 
it foams rapidly, and is very likely to run over, and if on stove, is likely to 
take fire. Do not take out the pieces of meat until well done. Be careful 
not to let it burn ; it is very easily scorched just at the last; when finished, 
the cracklings should be of a light brown color. A good way to strain it is 
to place a towel over a colander, dip the lard into it, when sufl^cient is in, 
two persons, one at each end, can twist the towel until all the lard is out. 
Put the cracklings in a vessel, dip out more lard ; continue this way until all 
the lard is disposed of. Set the jar in a cool place and stir it frequently 
with the wooden spoon, so as to insure the cooling of the center as quickly 
as the outside ; this prevents the lard from becoming frowy in the middle; 
or set the lard in milk pans to cool. When cold, cut out, place in jars and 
pour over it melted lard almost cold until it is smooth on top. When ready 
to set away place a cloth (linen is the best) over it, with one or two inches 
of salt on top of cloth ; then cover the jar with thick cloth or paper, set in a 
dry, dark place. The web always needs to be soaked in lukewarm water 
overnight, then drained well, after which it can be cut up and tried with the 
other lard. It is used by the best housekeepers for clean lard. That from 
the smaller intestines, and the flabby pieces, not fit for salting should be 
thrown into lukewarm water and allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, and 
then should be tried by itself, and the lard set away where it will freeze, 
and, by spring, the strong taste will be gone. A teacup of water prevents 
burning while trying. The skins can be cut into pieces two or three inches 
square, placed in a large dripping pan and set in the oven to try out, as they 
are apt to burn or stick to the kettle ; stir them often, do not let them burn. 
They yield quite an amount of fat which is always useful in a family : then 
the skins themselves make good soap grease. 



646 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 




Smoke-houses. — This is one of the nicest arrangements for smoking meat 
that a model farm can have, as it makes a safe re- 
ceptacle for ashes and also smokes meat when want- 
ed ; but a good and cheap smoke house quickly and 
easily made is to dig a trench about three feet long, 
and one half foot wide, cover it with brick, and then 
dirt; at one end of the trench dig a hole about two 
feet deep, and large enough to set an old kettle or 
something to hold the fire, at the other end of the 
trench, place a barrel, (with top heads out), put a 
stick across the top, on which to hang the meat ; 
cover the barrel with old carpet, or anything to 
hold the smoke in. Or take an old hogshead, stop 
up all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross- 
stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be 
smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the 
top, to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust 
and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the 
tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross- 
stieks, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and 
place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it 
with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a larg'e 
ham remain forty hours, and keep up a good smoke. 

Sausages. — To make these easily and perfectly a meat chopper is almost 
indispensable. It is also of great help in 
making mince-meat. 

Beef Sausages. — Chop very fine three 
pounds very lean beef with a pound and a 
half suet. Season with powdered sage, 
allspice, pepper and salt and force the 
meat into skins that have been thoroughly 
Cleansed, or make into cakes. 

Bologna Sausage. — Six pounds lean pork, three of beef, two of suet, four 
ounces salt, six tablespoons black pepper, two tablespoons cayenne pepper, 
two teaspoons cloves, one teaspoon allspice, and one minced onion ; or season 
to taste. Grind the meat and mix well with the seasoning ; pack in beef 
skins, tie both ends tight, and lay in strong brine for a week, then change 
into a new brine for another week, turning them frequently. Take them 
out, wipe dry, and smoke them ; rub the surface with butter, and hang in a 
cool dark place. Or take equal quantities of bacon (fat and lean), beef, 
veal, pork, and beef suet, grind together, season with pepper, salt, sweet 
herbs, sage rubbed fine, and spices if liked and sifted bread crumbs or boiler 
rice is sometimes added, though this is not done when the sausage is wanted 
to keep any length of time. Fill skins and prick them ; boil gently an hour, and 
lay on a straw or hang up to dry. May be smoked as above. An equal 
weight of ham, veal and pork, highly seasoned and boiled in casings till- 
tender, then dried, makes very nice Bologna sausage also, and they are 
often made of beef and pork alone, using proportion of about one third pork 
to two-thirds beef, Season to taste and put up as above. A nice way of 
'serving is to cut into slices not quite a quarter of an inch thick, skin them 
and lay them lapping over each other round a mound of parsley. This is of 
the nature of a salad and may be served with the cheese course or just after 
the Boup and fish courses. 




CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 647 



Triple Sausage.— Take equal parts pork (fat and lean,) yeal and beef suet, 
grind or chop fine and to every three pounds meat add seasoning of grated 
rmd or half of a lemon, small nutmeg grated, six powdered sage leaves, one 
teaspoon pepper, two of salt and half teaspoon each summer savory and 
marjoram with a half pint bread crumbs. Pack for use as Pork Sausage. 

Mutton. — This is cut up as directed and corned and dried the same way 
that beef is. 

Veal.— To cnt the pieces up for use follow directions in illustration. For 
Calfs Head and Feet, the first thing to do is to remove the hair, unless pur- 
chased at the butchers vi^hen they will be nicely scraped, and will only need 
to be wiped carefully with a damp towel so that no hair adheres. To remove 
the entire hair drop the head and feet into a tub of hot water that has had a 
shovelful of wood ashes boiled in it, or a few crumbs of concentrated lye, or 
v/ashing soda. The water must not be quite boiling hot, as that will set the 
hair and make cleaning difficult. Churn them about with a stick of wood a 
fev/ minutes, then scrape with a sharp knife. Put the head into cold water 
and leave it there to draw out the blood for a moment, and dry well with a 
towel. Roast the hoofs in hot coals and pry off with a knife point, or some 
wash head and feet clean, sprinkle powdered resin over the hair, dip them 
in boiling water and take out immediately, and then scrape them clean ; after- 
wards soak them in water four days, changing the water every day. 

To prepare for use there are difi"erent ways ; some cut from between the 
ears to the nose touching the bones ; then cutting close to it, take off flesh, 
turn over the head, cut open the jaw-bone from underneath, and take out 
tongue whole. Turn the head back again, crack the top of skull between the 
ears and take out the brains whole ; cut the head through the center, remove 
the skin from the nasal passage and cleanse thoroughly by scraping and 
Bcalding. Or remove the skin, cut open from throat to edge of lower jaw, 
without breaking more than necessary and put skin aside in cold water for 
Boup. To remove th6 brain cut the skull with a meat saw from between the 
ears and above the eyes and the brain may be then taken out without breaking. 

To Bone a Head ; place it on table with the front part of the head facing 
you ; draw the sharp point of a knife from the back part of the head right 
down to the nose, making an incision down to the bone of the skull ; then 
with the knife clear the scalp and cheeks from the bones right and left, always 
keeping the point of the knife close to the bone. If you have not previously 
removed the brains, they are best removed before boning, chop the head in 
two and remove them as carefully as possible. When the head has been 
boned wash it well, wipe it with a clean cloth, season the inside with salt 
and pepper, roll it up with the tongue, tie it up, and parboil it in hot water 
for ten minutes ; then put it into cold water a few minutes, wipe it dry, and 
set it aside until wanted ; this is blanching it. In removing brains be very 
careful not to break them ; prepare them either by single or double blanching. 
To Single Blanch first soak in salted water one hour or simply wash in several 
waters, then remove every particle of the thin skin or membrane covering 
the soft inner substance very carefully without breaking ; put over the fire in 
quart cold water with a seasoning of salt and table-spoon vinegar and boil 
fifteen minutes, lay in cold water till wanted which should not be very long. 
To Double Blanch, cover them with cold water and let heat slowly until the 
fine outside skin can be removed easily, then put them in fresh water and let 
them heat again slowly, till all the blood comes out and they are entirely 
white. Take them out and put in boiling water with a little salt and table- 
spoon vinegar, boil them hard for ten minutes or till quite firm. Take them 
but and drop into cold water for a few minutes or till ready for use, although 
that should not be long, then drain on a cloth. 



648 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 

Sweet-breads. — These are considered great delicacies and are the most ex- 
pensive parts of meat. Those of calves are best, but for hints as to purchasing 
see Marketing, Blanching Sweet-breads is always necessary before cooking, 
and as they will not keep long this should be done as soon as brought from 
market. Some put them for half an hour in luke-warm water, then throw 
into boiling water to blanch and harden, and then into cold or ice water to 
cool ; after which draw off the outer casing, trim off all particles of fat, veins, 
membranes, etc., and cook as liked. Others put to soak in cold water for 
about an hour, adding tablespoon salt to each quart water. Then draw a 
lardoon of pork through the center of each, put into salted boiling water and 
cook until thoroughly done. Throw again into cold water for a few minutes 
and they will be firm and white. Carefully remove the skin and little pipes 
and set away in cool place until ready to cook. Some merely skin, then 
place in cold water ten minutes or so, when they are ready to boil. Sweet- 
breads should always be parboiled twenty minutes before cooking in any 
manner. Any flavor liked may be given sweet-breads by adding spices, herbs, 
or vegetables to the water in which they are parboiled. A good rule for two 
quarts water is, two tablespoons vinegar, one of salt, a bay leaf, dozen whole 
cloves, teaspoon pepper corns, small red pepper, sprig of any dry herb, except 
sage, (thyme marjoram or summer savory) sprigs of parsley, or small root of 
parsley. Sot away in cool, place nntil dry wanted. 

Poultry. — Are served either whole or cut up. Do not feed poultry for 
twenty-four hours before killing ; and some give them a tablespoon of vinegar 
an hour before killing ; catch them without f rightning or bruising, tie the feet 
together, hang up on a horizontal pole, tie the wings together over the back 
with a strip of soft cotton cloth : let them hang five minutes, then cut the 
throat or cut off the head with a very sharp knife, and allow them to hang 
until the blood has ceased to drip. The thorough bleeding renders the meat 
more white and wholesome. Scald well by dipping in and out of a pail or 
tub of boiling water, being careful not to scald so much as to set the feathers 
and make them more difiicult to pluck ; place the fowl on a board with head 
towards you, pull the feathers away from you which will be in the direction 
they naturally lie (if pulled in a contrary direction the skin is likely to be 
torn) , be careful to remove all the pin-feathers with a knife or pair of tweezers ; 
singe, but not smoke, over blazing paper on the stove, or some prefer alcohol. 

To Cut up a Chichen. — Lay the chicken on a board kept for the purpose, 
cut off the feet at first joint ; cut a slit in the neck, take out the windpipe and 
crop, cut off the wings and legs at the joint which unites them to the body, 
separate the first joint of the leg from the second, cut off the oil bag, make a 
slit horizontally under the tail, cut the end of the entrails loose, extend the 
slit on each side of the joint where the legs were cut off; then, with the left 
hand, hold the breast of the chicken, and with the right, bend back the rump 
until the joint in the back separates, cut it clear and place in water. Take 
out the entails, using a sharp knife to separate the eggs (if any), and all other 
particles to be removed, from the back, being careful in removing the heart 
and liver not to break the gall-bag (a small sack of blue-green color about an 
inch long attached to the liver) ; separate the back and breast ; commence at 
the high point of the breast and cut downwards towards the head, taking off 
part of the breast with the wish-bone ; cut the neck from that part of the back 
to which the ribs are attached, turn the skin off the neck, and take out all 
lumps and stringy substances ; very carefully remove the gall-bag from the 
liver, and clean the gizzard by making an incision through the thick part and 
first lining, peeling off the fleshy part, leaving the inside whole and ball* 
shaped; if the lining breaks, open the gizzard, pour out contents, peel off 
inner lining, and wash thoroughly. After washing in second water, the chick- 
en is ready to be cooked. Some prefer to cut the chicken with a sharp knife, 



CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 



CA9 



thinking that when divided according to the joints some portions will he hare 
of meat. To do this, after cleaning, split the fowl in halves lengthwise. This 
can be done by cutting down the middle of the back with a sharp kitchen 
knife, laying the fowl wide open and chopping through the breast bone in- 
side. _ Lay a half on the board and sever the drumsticks by chopping through 
the joint. Chop through the hip joint, or a little on the meaty side of it, and 
slantwise, taking at that cut the side bone and tail end, all sufficiently cov- 
ered with meat, a little derived from the second joint, and then cut off the 
second joint by chopping straight acrosss the fowl, making three pieces of 
equal weight of that quarter. Cut off the two small joints of the wing. Chop 
off the main joint slantwise, so that it will have attached to it the piece of 
neck bone and a small portion of the breast. There willl remain nearly the 
entire breast, which should be chopped straight across and made two pieces. 
Cut up the other half of the fowl in the same way. It is just the skillful 
carving of a whole cooked fowl in results ; a proper method of cutting up 
gives each person at table a piece of meat of equally good appearance, and 
not to one meat and to next a dark-looking piece of bone, already stripped. 

To Cut up a Turkey to Cook Whole. — After killing and singeing, plump it 
by plunging quickly three times into boiling water and then three times into 
cold, holding it by the legs ; place on a meat-board, and with a sharp knife 
cut off the legs a little below the knee, to prevent the muscles from shrink- 
ing away from the joint, and remove the oil-bag from 
the tail ; take out the crop, either by making a slit 
at the back of the neck or in front(the latter is better) 
taking care that every thing pertaining to the crop 
or windpipe is removed, cut the neck-bone off close 
to the body, leaving the skin a good length to be 
stuffed ; cut around vent, cut a slit three inches long 
from the tail upwards, being careful to cut only 
through the skin, put in the finger at the breast and 
Eeadr for Pinmping, detact all the intestines, taking care not to burst the 

gall-bag (situated near the upper part of the breast-bone, and attached to 
the liver; if broken, no washing can remove the bitter taint left on every 
spot it touches) ; put in the hand at the in- 
cision near the tail and draw out carefully 
all intestines ; split the gizzard and take out 
the inside and inner lining (throw liver, 
heart, and gizzard into water, wash well, 
and lay aside to be cooked and used for the 
gravy) ; wash the fowl thoroughly^ in cold 
rt'ater twice, (some wipe carefully with a wet 
cloth, and afterwards with a dry cloth to 
make perfectly clean, instead of washing), Front or cuoken. 
hang up to drain, then stuff, skewer, and place to roast as directed in Eoast 
Turkey. A chicken is prepared in same way and trussed as illustrated. 

To Bone Chicken and Turkey. — If chicken, choose a large one, at least 
one year old, pick, singe and wipe with wet towel, but do not draw. If you 
buy "already dressed, see that it is not frozen as freezing makes it tear easily 
and also be particular every part is whole, as little breaks in skin will spoil 
the result. Cut off legs about one and one half inches above joint, cut off 
wings between last joint and body, cut off neck close to body and take out 

the crop without breaking the skin of the neck. Now 

with a small, sharp knife make a smooth cut through 

the skin and flesh, down the line of the backbone, 

from the neck to the rump ; then begin at the neck to cut off the flesh and 

skin together from the carcass ; work with the point of the knife, holding it 





Back of Chicken. 



Boning Knife. 



650 CUTTING AND CURING MEATS. 

flat against the bone, and cutting all the flesh off attached to the skin ; first 
cut from the neck to the joint where the wing is connected with the body, 
then unjoint that, and leave the bone of the wing in the flesh for the pres- 
ent, and continue to cut down the back and sides until the thigh joint is 
reached ; unjoint that, leaving the bone in the leg, and cut toward the breast- 
bone, being careful not to cut through the skin where it is stretched tight 
over the breast; when the flesh of one side of the bird is loosened from the 
carcass in this way, turn it over and take off the other side. Great care 
must be taken not to cut through the carcass into the intestines, which may 
remain inclosed in it until it is entirely freed from the flesh and skin ; the 
most difiicult part of the operation is cutting ofi" the breast without breaking 
or tearing the skin ; if this accident happens the aperture must be sewed up 
before the bird is stufi'ed. When tke flesh is free [from the carcass, lay it 
skin down on the table, and distribute the flesh equally all over the skin, 
cutting the thickest portions and laying them open like the leaves of a book, 
BO as to cover the skin ; cut out the wing and thighbones, and turn the flesh 
and skin inside, like the fingers of a glove reversed. Stuff and roll in shape 
as directed for a Turkey Galatine and after being boiled and pressed in a 
pan or mold, remove cloth, place it in a vessel, a size larger than that in 
which it was pressed but same shape, and fill the space with aspic jelly 
poured in nearly cold ; when set dip a moment in warm water, turn out and 
it is ready to be decorated. Although we have given many fillings in Poultry 
Department here is one differing somewhat. For a turkey weighing seven 

f)onnds, take the meat of one chicken weighing four pounds, one pound of 
ean veal, half a pound of lean salt pork, small cup cracker crumbs, two eggs, 
one cup broth, two and a half tablespoons salt, half teaspoon pepper and 
sage, one teaspoon each summer savory, sweet marjoram, and thyme, and, 
if liked, one tablespoon capers, quart of oysters and two tablespoons onion 
juice. Have the meat uncooked and free from any tough pieces. Chop very 
fine. Add seasoning, crackers, etc., mix thoroughly, and use. If oysters 
are used, half a pound of the veal must be omitted. 

Another method of boning a turkey to truss in original shape is as fol- 
lows ; prepare as above without drawing, cut off legs in the joints, and tips 
of wings, place on its breast and cut down the back through to the bone 
from the neck down to where there is but little flesh, where it is all skin and 
fat. IBegin at neck, and run knife between flesh and bones until you come 
to wing. Then cut ligaments that hold bones together and tendons that 
hold flesh to bones. With thumb and fore-finger, press flesh from smooth 
bone. When you come to the joint, carefully separate ligaments and re- 
move bone. Do not try to take bone from next joint, as that is not in the 
Avay when carving, and it gives a more natural shape to turkey. Now begin 
at wish-bone, and when that is free from the flesh, run knife between sides 
and flesh, always using fingers to press the meat from the smooth bones, as, 
for instance, the breast-bone and lower part of the sides. AVork around 
edges the same as around wings, always using great care at joints not to cut 
skin. Drawing out the leg bones turns that part of the bird inside out. Turn 
turkey over, and proceed in the same manner with the other side, When 
all is detached, carefully draw skin from breast-bone ; then run the knife 
between the fat and bone at the rump, leaving the small bone in the ex- 
treme end, as it holds the skewers. Carefully remove the flesh from the 
skeleton, and turn it right side out again. Rub into it two tablespoons salt 
and a little pepper, and fill with dressing. Sew up back and neck and then 
the vent. Truss the same as if not boned. By leaving the wings and legs 
unboned the natural form is more easily given to the turkey in trussing and 
some prefer it thus. Itis vory nice to hone chicken or li(rki'i/f'>rj'n'ritnsecs, cur- 
ries and pies ; to do this fi st cut them up in pieces, then begin with the legs ; 






CUTTING AND CURINa MEATS. 651 

take the end of the large bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean 
from it down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the linife care- 
fully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part, cut round the next 
bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to it, until the whole of the leg is 
done. Eemove the bones of the other leg in same manner ; then take wings 
and proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful not to 
pierce the skin of the second joint ; the rest of the pieces are very easily 
Doned after the directions given for boning an entire fowl. 

Shell Fish. — The Oyster is the most used of all shell-fish and its prepar- 
ation for cooking is so simple that it is fully given in Shell-fish Department. 
Hard-shell Crabs are prepared for use the same as Lobsters. Soft-shell 
Crabs are always used alive and prepared for cooking as follows : Turn the 
crab on its back, lift up the apron, or pointed flap which lies near the back 
of the shell, and either break off from it the tuft of fin-like portions attached 
to it, or remove it entirely ; press first one side and then the other of the 
back shell away from the body, and take out the tough fibrous organs called 
the "deadmen" ; lay the crab on its back on the table, and with a small 
sharp knife cut out a semi-circle from the head, including the eyes and the 
sand bag ; then wash the crab in cold salted water, dry it on a clean towel, 
and it is ready to be cooked as wished. 

Lobsters. — When purchased alive, to remove the shell tie the claws to- 
gether and plunge head-first into boiling water, adding a gallon of latter, 
tablespoon salt and some add teacup vinegar. Boil steadily for twenty or 
thirty minutes or until the shell turns red. Too long b.oiling toughens it 
and destroys the fine delicate flavor of the meat, for small ones some only 
boil half as long. When done it is nice to let it drain face downward on a 
sieve. Take it from the boiling water, cool a little, and then break ofl" claws 
and tail, remove and throw away the soft fins which lie under the legs, close 
to the body of the lobster, separate tail from body, and shake out the tom- 
ally, and, also, the "coral," if there is any, upon a plate. Then by drav/ing 
body from the shell with the thumb, and pressing the part near head against 
shell with first and second finger, you will free it from the stomach or "lady." 
Now split the lobster through the center and, with a fork, pick meat from 
joints. Cut under side of tail shell open and take out meat without breaking. 
On the upper part of that end of this meat which joined the body is a small 
piece of flesh, which should be lifted ; and a strip of meat attached to it 
should be turned back to the extreme end of tail. This will uncover a little 
Tein, running the entire length, which must be removed. Sometimes this 
vein is dark, and sometimes as light as the meat itself. It and the stomach 
and head are the only parts not eatable. The piece that covered the vein 
should be turned again into place. Hold claws on edge on a thick board, 
and strike hard with a hammer until shell cracks. Draw apart, and take out 
meat. If you have the claws lying fiat on the board when you strike, you 
not only break the shell, but mash meat, and thus spoil a fine dish. Re- 
member that the stomach of the lobster is found near the head, and is a 
small, hard sack containing poisonous matter ; and that the intestinal vein 
is found in the tail. These should always be carefully removed. The lobster 
may then be. arranged on a plate and served, each one seasoning to suit 
himself. 



652 " oARViNa. 



CARVi:N-a-. 



xt is no trifling accomplishment to carve well, and both ladies and gen- 
tlemen ought to so far make carving a study that they may be able to per- 
form the task with sufficient skill at least to prevent remark. There are no 
real difficulties in the way of mastering the accomplishment ; knowledge 
simply is required. All displays of exertion are in bad taste, because they 
indicate a want of ability on the part of the carver, or a strong indication of 
the toughness of the roast or the age of the bird. A good knife of moderate 
size and great sharpness is a necessity. Fowls are easily carved, and in 
roasts such as loins, breasts, fore-quarters, etc., the butcher should always 
have instructions to separate the joints. The platter should be placed so near 
to the carver that he has full control over it ; if far off nothing can prevent 
an ungraceful appearance. In carving a turkey, place the head to the right, 
cut oflf the wing nearest you first, then the leg and second joint ; then slice 
the breast until a rounded, ivory-shaped piece appears ; insert the knife be- 
tween that and the bone and separate them ; this part is the nicest bit of the 
breast; next comes the "merry-thought." After this, turn over the bird a 
little, and just below the breast you will find the "oyster", which you can 
separate as you did the inner breast. The side bone lies beside the rump, 
and the desired morsel can be taken out without separating the whole bone. 
Proceed in the same way upon the other side. The fork need not be re- 
moved during the whole process. An experienced carver will dissect a fowl 
as easily as you can break an egg or cut a potato. He retains his seat, man- 
ages his hands and elbows artistically, and is perfectly at his ease. There 
is no difficulty in the matter ; it only requires knowledge and practice, and 
these should be taught in the family, each child taking his turn. Chickens 
and partridges are carved in the same way. The trail of a woodcock on toast 
is the choicest bit of the bird ; also the thigh of a partridge. 

A fillet of veal is cut in thin, smooth slices off the top, and proportions 
of the stuffing and fat are served to each. In cutting a breast of veal, separ- 
ate the breast and brisket, and then cut them up. 



CARVING. 



653 




Shoulder of Mutton. — Though commonly 
regarded as a homely joint, is by many pre- 
ferred to the leg, as there is much variety 
of flavor, as well as texture, in both the 
upper parts. The figure represents it laid 
in the dish as usually served, back upper- , 
,,,^r,, most. Cut through it from a down to the 
;vl^/// blade-bone at b. Afterwards slice along 
'""*^ each side of the blade-bone from c to b. 
Shoulder of Mutton, _ The best part of the f at Hcs in the outcr edge, 

and is to be cut in thin slices in the direc-/^ y^^. — 'x.^ '^ 

tion of d. The under part contains many <r '-"» .J-^^r7~*v^ 

favorite slices, of diiferent sorts, which may 
be cut crosswise in slices, near the shank 
bone at b or lengthwise in broad pieces at 
the large end a. If it is intended to reserve 
a part cold, the under parts should be served 
hot, as they are more palatable than when 
cold, and the upper part iskeptmore^sightly 
for the table/ ~ ^ ^"~^ 

_ y Saddle of Mutton should be cut 
in long and rather thin slices from 
the tail to the end, beginning at 
each side close to the back-bone 
from a to b, with slices of fat from 
c to d, or along the bone which 
divides the two loins, so as to 
loosen from it the whole of the 
meat from that side which you then 
cut crosswise, thus giving with 
each slice both fat and lean. The 
tail-end is usually divided and part- 
ly turned up. 





Saddle of Mutton. 



Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the 
direction of 1 to 2. The most delicate fat 
lies about the part 4 and if cut in the line 
3 to 4 the two bones between which the 
marrowy fat lies, will be divided. 

Fore-quarter of Lamb. — Pass the knife 
under the shoulder in the direction of a, 
b, c, d, so as to separate it from the ribs 
without cutting the meat too much off the 
bones. Divide an orange or lemon, sprinkle 
the halves with salt or pepper and squeeze 




KaucKle of Ve&l. 




Fore-Httarter of Lamb. 



the juice over the under part, take 
to table and the carver should then 
divide ribs from d toe, serving them, 
or the neck f , or the breast g, as 
may be selected. -. 

Haunch of Venison. — Have the 
joint lengthwise before you, the 
knuckle being the farther joint. Cut 
from a to b, but be careful not to let 



C.54 



CARVING. 



out the gravy, then cut along the 
whole length from a down to d. 
The knife should slope in making 
the first cut, and then the whole 
of the gravy will be secured in the 
well. The greater part of the fat, 
which is the favorite part, will be 
found at the left side, and care 
must be taken to serve some with 
each slice. 




Haanch of VelHson, 




Leg of Pork. 



Leg of PorTc. — A leg of pork whether 
boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Begin 
about midway, between the knuckle and 
the thick end, and cut them in deep slices 
from either side of the line 1 to 2 

Ham. — Serve it with the back upwards, 
sometimes ornamented, and generally hav- 
ing, as in France, the shank-bone covered 
with cut paper. Begin at the middle by 




cutting long and very thin slices from a to h, 
continuing down the thick fat at the broad 
end. The first slice should be wedge-shaped, 
that all the others may be cut slanting, which 
gives a handsome appearance to them. Many 
persons, however, prefer the hock at d as 
having more flavor ; it is then carved length- 
wise from c to d. 

Fillet of Veal. — Pare off the upper part 

one slice from the whole surface half an 
inch thick, and put it aside, then cut thin 
slice of both lean and fat. The round and 
aitch-bone is carved in the same way. In 
carving the first slice, if any one prefers 
the brown, it may be cut thinner and divid- 
ed, and a portion served to each person 
who likes it. 

Round or Aitch-bone of Beef. — These are 
Fillet of Veal. carvcd like a fillet of veal. The soft fat 

wnich resembles marrow, lies back of the 
aitch-bone, below c, but the firm fat should 
be cut in slender horizontal slices at a, 
and is much better than the soft when eat- 
en cold. 

Rabbits. — Put the point of the knife 
under the shoulder at b, and so cut all the 
way down to the rump, along the sides of 
the backbone, in the limb, b, a, cutting it 
in moderately thick slices ;or, after remov- Round or AUch-boneof beef. 

ing the shoulders and legs, cut the back crosswise in four or five pieces > 
but this can only be done when the rabbit is very young, or when it is boned. 
To separate the legs and sh^ilders, put the knife between the leg and back 
and give it a little turn inwards at the point, which you must endeavor 
to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders may be removed by a 





CARVING. 



655 




circular cut around them. The back is the 
most delicate part, and next to that the 
thighs. A portion of the stuffing should be 
served with each slice. The brain and ears 
of the sucking pig and rabbit are slso con- 
sidered epicurian tid-bits, v/hich must not 
be neglected ; therefore, v/hen every one 
is helped, cut off the head, put your knife 
between the upper and lower jaw and di- 
^^^^'^- vide them, which will enable you to lay the 

upper flat on your jjlate ; then put the point of the knife into the center and 

cut the head in two. 

Winged Game and Poultry. — The carving of winged game and poultry re- 
quires more delicacy of hand and nicety in hitting the joints than the cutting 
of large pieces of meat, and, to be neatly done, requires considerable prac- 
tice. The carving knife should be smaller and lighter and the point and 
handle longer than for meats. 

Boast Turkey. — Cut long slices from each side of the breast down to the 
ribs, beginning at a & from the wing to the breast bone. Then turn the tur- 
key upon the side nearest you, and cut off 
the leg and wing ; when the knife is passed 
between the limbs and the body, and pressed 
outward, the joint will be easily perceived. 
Then turn the turkey on the other side, and 
tfut off the leg and wing. Separate the drum- 
sticks from the leg bones, and the pinions 
from the wings ; it is hardly possible to mis- 
take the joint. Cut the stuffing in thin slices 
lengthwise. Take off the neck-bones, which are two triangular bones on 
eacli side of the breast ; this is done by passing the knife from the back un- 
der the blade part of each neck-bone, until it reaches the end; by raising the 
knife the other branch will easily crack off. Separate the carcass from the 

back by passing the knife lengthwise from the 
neck downward. Turn the back upwards and 
lay the edge of the knife across the back-bone 
about midway between the legs and wings ; at 
the same moment, place the fork within the 
lower part of the turkey, and lift it up ; thia 
will make the back-bone crack at the knife. 
The croup, or lower part of the back being cut 
off, put it on the plate with the rump from you. 
Boiled Turkey. ^^^ gplj|. ^fj- ^.j^g sidc-bones by forcing the 

knife from the rump to the other end. The choicest parts of turkey are the 
Bide bones, the breast and the thigh bones. The breast and wings are called 
light meat ; the thigh-bones and side-bones dark meat. When a person de- 
cfiines expressing a preference, it is polite to help to both kinds. 

Boiled Turkey is carved in the same way as the roast, the only difference 
being in the trussing ; the legs in boiled being, as here shown, drawn into the 
body, and in the roast skewered. 

Boast Fowl. — Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the 
bone ; then wnth the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the 
bird is not old. Take the 'wing off in the direction of a to b, only dividing 
the joint with your knife. When the four quarters are thus removed, take 





656 



CARVING. 





Roost Ooose. 

stantly reserved for broiling. 



off the merry-thought from c, and the neck 
bones, these last, by putting in the knife at 
d, and pressing it, will break off from the 
part that sticks to the breast. The next 
thing is to divide the breast from the car- 
cass, by cutting through the tender ribs 
close to the breast, quite down to the tail. 
Then raise the lower end of rump and it 
will separate easily. Turn the rump from Ro&st fowi. 

you, take off the two sidesmen, and the whole will be done. To separate 
the thigh from the drumstick of the leg insert the knife into the joint as 
above. It requires practice to hit the joint at the first trial. The breast 
and wings are considered the best parts. If the bird be a capon, or large, 
and roasted, the breast may be cut into slices the same way as the pheasant. 

The difference in the carving of boiled and 
roast fowls consists only in the breast of 
the latter being always served whole, and 
the thigh-bones being generally preferred 
to the wing. 

Oeese. — Cut thin slices from the breast 
■at c to &; the wing is generally separated 
as in turkeys, but the leg is almost con- 
Serve a little of the seasoning from the 
inside by cutting a circular slice in the apron at c. 

Pheasant. — Slip the knife between the leg and the breast; cut off a wing 
then slice the breast, and you will have two or three handsome cuts. Cut 
off the merry thought by passing the knife under it towards the neck, and 
cut all the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and 
merry-thought are the most esteemed; but the thigh has a 
high flavor. 

Partridge. — It may be cut up in the same manner as a 
fowl; but the bird being small, it is unusual to divide it into 
more than three portions — the leg and wing being left to- 
gether, and the breast helped entire; the back, being only 
served along with some other parts. If the birds are very Partnage. 

young, and the party not over large, the whole body is not unfrequently 
only separated into two pieces, by one cut of the knife from head to tail. 

Quails. — Generally helped whole. 

Grouse, Snipe and Woodcock. — Proceed as for partridge. As regards 
these different sorts of game, the thigh of the pheasant and woodcock is the 
best, and the breast and wing of the partridge and grouse; but the most 
epicurean morsel of all is the trail of the woodcock served up on toast. 
Smaller birds should always be helped as they are roasted, whole. 

In serving fish some practice is needful, for lightness of touch and dex- 
terity of management are necessary to prevent the flakes from breaking. In 
serving mackerel, shad, etc., a part of the roe should be placed on each plate. 
The fins of the turbot are most sought for; the fish is placed underpart up- 
permost on the platter, as there lies the primest part. In carving salmon, a 
portion of the back and belly should be served to each person. The choicest 
morsels are next to the head, the thin part comes next, and the tail is the 
least esteemed. The flavor of the fish nearest the bone is not equal to that 
on the upper part. 




ttlNTS FOR THE WELL, 657 



KINTS FOR THE ^\^ELL. 



There are certain articles of diet that must be discarded by all persona 
who have a weak digestion and certain dietetic rules which must be con- 
formed to by all. To the most important of these we will now call attention: 
Eat slowly, masticating the food very thoroughly even more so, if possible 
than is required in health. The more time the food spends in the mouth the 
less it will spend in the stomach. Avoid drinking at meals, at most take a 
few sips of warm water at the close of the meal, if the food is very dry ia 
character. In general, dyspeptic stomachs manage dry fruit better than 
that containing much liquid. Eat neither very hot or cold food. The best 
temperature, about that of the body. Avoid exposure to cold after eating. 
Be careful to avoid excess in eating. Eat no more than the wants of tha 
system requires. Som^etimes less than is really needed must be taken when 
digestion is very weak. Strength depends not on what is eaten, but what ia 
digested. 

Never take violent exercise of any sort, either mental or physical, eithei 
just before or just after a meal. It is not good to sleep immediately after 
eating, nor within four hours of a meal. Never eat more than three times a 
day, and make the last meal very light. For many dyspeptics two meals are 
better than more. Never eat a morsel of anything between meals. Nevef 
eat when tired, whether exhausted from mental or ^hysicial labor. Novel 
eat when the mind is worried or the temper ruffled, if possible to avoid do» 
ing so. Eat only food that is easy of digestion, avoiding complicated and in- 
digestible dishes, and taking but one to three kinds at a meal. Most per* 
sons will be benefitted by the use of (^t-meal, wheat-meal or graham flour, 
cracked wheat and other whole-grain preparations, though many will find il 
necessary to avoid vegetables, especially when fruits and meats were taken. 
The flesh of wild game is usually more easy of digestion than that of domes- 
tic animals, and is less likely to be diseased. Fats are injurious to dyspep* 
tics almost without exception. If eaten at all, butter is the only form ad- 
missible, and this should never be eaten cooked, but cold on bread. Broil- 
ing is the best mode of cooking meat. "High" meat should never be eaten 
as it has begun to decay. Meat and vegetables do not agree well together. 
Fruit and vegetables often disagree. Some cases must be required to dis- 
card vegetables altogether. Milk does not agree well with either vegetables 
or fruits. Milk is easier of digestion when boiled than when in its natural 
state. Warm food is easier of digestion than cold, with the exception of fer' 
mented bread, which should be eaten stale. Cold meat and meat that haa 
"been warmed over" are not easy of digestion. 42 



658 HINTS FOR THE WELL. 



Popular Errors In Diet. — An eminent physician has prepared this article 
giving the following errors : It is an error to suppose that the appetite la 
always a correct criterion of the quantity and quality of food. This is a 
widely prevalent error and some very distinguished physicians have given 
it countenance and endorsement by saying to patients, when asked for a diet 
prescription, "Eat whatever and whenever you have a mind to." No ad- 
vice could be more mischievous. It virtually assumes either that there is 
no relation between diet and health, that it makes no difference what a per- 
son eats, or that the appetite is an infallible guide, both of which supposi- 
tions are palpably false. If all appetites were natural appetites, if there 
were no such thing as depraved taste, then might the appetite be relied upon, 
but in the present state of things among civilized human beings scarcely one 
person in a hundred has a perfectly normal taste and appetite, if the number 
be not even smaller. The appetite is to some degree a guide, but it must be 
controlled and governed by common sense, by a knowledge of the laws of 
digestion and the relation of elementary substances to the stomach and the 
system. Either extreme on this point is bad. The appetite must not be 
ignored and it must not be blindly followed unless it is known to be normal 
in its inclinations. It would be just as proper to advise a person to speak 
anything that comes into his mind, to do everything for which he has an in- 
clination, and to thus follow implicitly all the promptings of his various 
organs, as to tell him to eat everything which he feels disposed to. 

It is an error to suppose that sick persons whose appetites are poor, 
should be tempted to eat by means of tidbits and dainties. Nothing is more 
common than for them to be besieged with such" unwholesome substances as 
preserves, rich jellies and sauces, pies, cakes, confectionery, etc. About as 
soon as a person is taken sick, in some communities, the neighbors begin to 
show their sympathy by contributions of all sorts of unwholesome and in- 
digestible viands, and the invalid, whose stomach may be unable to digest 
any but the very simplest food, beeomes a victim to the kindness of friends. 
Many times have the best efforts of the intelligent physician been baffled in 
this manner. "Killed by kindness" of this sort might be written on many a 
tombstone. The general belief that these things are essential for the sick 
when confessedly bad for the well is forcibly illustrated by the story con- 
cerning the old gentleman who arrived home late at night and not finding 
any pie in the cupboard awoke his wife with the exclamation, "Why, what 
would you do if anyone should be sick in the night!" Every physician 
ought to look carefully after this matter whenever he has a patient in charge 
and the absurdity of the custom should be thoroughly exposed. The want 
of appetite in sick people, especially fever patients is usually an indication 
that the stomach is not in a condition to digest food if it is received, and 
only the most digestible should be given, and that in small quantities. 

It is an error to suppose that children especially, need large quantities 
of fat and sugar. The opinion has been gaining of late, that fat and sugar 
are preventitives of consumption when fed to children so as to increase their 
fat. From some considerable observation on the subject, we are decidedly 
of the opinion that the practice is a bad one and the theory upon which it is 
based wholly erroneous. These substances are themselves difficult of di- 
gestion (this is especially true of fat) and hinder the digestion of food, thus 
producing dyspepsia which causes decay of the teeth and doubtless an equally 
marked deterioration in other parts of the s.ystem. The notion that the ap- 
petite for sugar is a natural one is shown to be false by the fact stated by 
Dr. Anthony Carlisle, the Artie traveler. According to Mr. Carlisle, the lit- 
tle folks in the vicinity of the North Pole are not fond of sweets. He says 
that when sugar was placed in their mouths they made very wry faces and 
sputtered it out with disgust. There is no evidence whatever that it "pre- 



HINTS FOR THE WELL. 659 



serves the teeth," "aids digestion," "promotes growth" or "prevents con- 
sumption," as many persons believe. 

It is an error to suppose that many varieties of food are essential to 
good digestive nutrition. The common sense of most people who suffer with 
weak digestion has taught them that one or two kinds of food at a meal are 
more easily digested than a large variety, notwithstanding the erroneous 
teaching of some popular authors on this subject. It is true that the appe- 
tite sometimes refuses food when its use is long continued without change, 
but the variety should be obtained by employing different foods or dishes at 
different meals rather than at the same meal. There is no doubt that dys- 
pepsia is not unfrequently the result of the indiscriminate gormandizing in 
which people indulge whose chief aim in eating is to satisfy the palate. 

It is a very great error to suppose that brain-workers, students, clergy- 
men, lawyers and other persons whose vocation is largely sedentary, require 
but little food. The very opposite is true. A brain worker uses up as much 
blood in three hours of intense labor as the muscle worker in ten hours of 
ordinary toil. Brain workers should be well fed, but they must not be over- 
fed. Many of the cases of apoplexy in professional men, set down to over- 
work, are really attributable to overeating. A brain worker needs as much 
food and as nutritious food as a muscle worker, but he is compelled to be 
more careful in its selection, and cannot exceed with impunity the limits oi 
his actual needs. This point is often neglected with reference to school- 
children, especially girls, who are not unfrequently allowed to make the at- 
tempt to live and study hard on a slice or two of wheat bread and a cup of 
coffee for breakfast, bread and butter and pickles for dinner and a morsel 
chiefly made up of "dessert" at night, when dinner is taken at six, as in 
many of the large cities. In many female boarding schools the dietary is 
neglected, an insufficient amount of nourishing elements being furnished to 
support the vigorous mental effort required of students. Under such a regi- 
me it is no wonder that many young women break down just when they 
ought to be enjoying the highest degree of health and strength. We arc 
thoroughly convinced that a much larger share of the breakdowns among 
students, both male and female, is due to poor feeding more than to overstudy. 

It is an error to suppose that fish or any other single article of diet is 
brain food, muscle food, or food for any particular part of the system. A few 
years ago a celebrated scientist made the casual suggestion that perhaps fish 
food might be especially nourishing to the brain, as there was considerable 
phosphorous in the brain and also in the fish. The notion spread like a her- 
esy, and soon fish of all sorts, big and little, scaly fish, shell fish, and fish 
with neither scales nor shell, were devoured in unprecedented quantities by 
microcephalous people and people whose brains were not obviously too small, 
for the purpose of obtaining the supposed specific effects of a fish diet. A 
gentleman eager to cultivate his brain and induce an increased growth, ad- 
dressed a letter to a noted wag, asking for advice respecting the quantity of 
fish which he must eat per day. The answer he received was a fitting criti- 
cism on the theory and undoubtedly discouraged the aspirations of the young 
man, being to the effect tnat a small whale would be about the right quantity 
for a meal. The falsity of the theory has been repeatedly shown by the 
citation of the fact that the lowest of human races are those that live almost 
exclusively upon fish. In civilized countries, also, as in the vicinity of large 
fisheries, whole communities often make fish their almostexclusive diet, and 
yet there is no evidence that their mental capacity is increased thereby. In 
fact, the low mental and moral status of these people would furnish an argu- 
ment on the opposide side of the question if it were necessary to offer such 
an argument. 



QQO HINTS FOR THE WELL. 



It is an error to suppose that people suflfering with nervous debility, nau- 
rasthenia or other forms of nervous weakness, need large quantities of flesh 
food. It is a very common custom when it is decided that a person has any 
form of nervous disorder accompanied by weakness or impaired nutrition, to 
place them at once on a diet consisting largely of flesh, as beefsteak, mutton- 
chops, etc. Sometimes the drinking of blood is recommended. That this 
indiscriminate practice is a bad one we have often had occasion to notice. It 
not infrequently happens that the excessive use of flesh food is a cause of 
nervousness, as has been repeatedly pointed out, and we believe that whether 
its use is advised or not, its use should depend on the condition of the stom- 
ach rather than on the nerves. A person whose stomach is very feeble may 
be enable to digest sufficient vegetable food to replenish the tissues, for such 
persons a flesh diet or a mixed diet will be found to be very advantageous. 

It is a most erroneous notion that "rich food" is strengthening. The 
strengthening quality of food depends first upon its digestibility, and second 
upon the proportion ot albuminous elements which it contains. Sugar, fat, 
spices and other ingredients which are added to food in rnaking it "rich" are 
of only secondary importance as nutritive elements and in the case of condi- 
ments of exceedingly doubtful value, if not wholly worthless. In the manner 
in which these substances are combined in "rich food" they are worse than 
•worthless. Really rich food is that which contains a large proportion of the 
essential elements of food in a condition to be easily assimilated. Graham 
bread, oatmeal mush, pea-soup, baked beans and kindred foods, are really, 
rich, and in the highest degree strengthening. 

It is an error to suppose that persons engaged in laborious occupations re- 
quire a large amount of flesh food. Persons who labor hard either physically 
or mentally, need a liberal supply of food rich in albuminous elements. 
These elements are furnished by such food as pease and beans in even larger 
quantities than in the best beefsteak. A pound of pease contains four ounces 
of albuminous elements, while a pound of beefsteak contains but about three 
ounces. Oatmeal and wheat meal are also very rich in albuminous elements. 
The Scotch laborers who subsist largely upon oatmeal porridge are said to be 
among the finest developed and hardiest men in the world. Numerous sim- 
ilar evidences in favor of a liberal supply of vegetable food might be given. 

- It is an error to suppose that the system is better supported by meals at 
very frequent intervals than by food taken in aecordance with the known 
time required for digestion. It has long been the custom to supply laborers 
undergoing severe exertion, as during harvest time among farmers with two 
or three extra meals during the day, thus often bringing meals within two 
or three hours of each other. We believe that the practice is a bad one, 
and that three meals at most are much better than more. The custom of 
eating five meals a day, common in some foreign countries, is certainly 
unphysiological, and must be injurious. /Children are oft&n injured by too ^ 
frequent feeding; not only while infants, but after having grown so as to '\.i 
be large enough to attend school, being very often supplied by fond mothers \ > 
with luncheon for recess, and apples to eat at all hours. It is a most unwise 
thing to allow children to form the habit of nibbling at food between meals. 
The fact that they are growing and need a large supply of nourishment is no 
apology for the practice, but rather makes it the more necessary that they 
should be regular in their habits in order to secure good digestion. The 
stomach needs rest as well as the arms and limbs and other organs of the 
body. More food will be well digested with three meals than with a larger 
number, and hence a larger amount of good blood will be produced and 
more healthy tissue forme^. 



HINTS FOR THB WELL. 661 



It is an error to suppose that the best preparation and support for extra- 
ordinary exertion is increasing the amount of food eaten proportionately. 
It is generally supposed tliat if a man has an unusually large days work t(S 
perform, he must eat an unusually large breakfast and a proportionately 
large dinner. This is certainly an error. Large demands upon either the 
muscular or the nervous system for the time being detract from the power 
to digest. The stomach requires nervous energy to enable it to perform ita 
lunction. If the nervous forces are otherwise engaged or used they can not 
be utilized in digestion; hence it follows, theoretically at least, that instead 
of giving the organs an extra task in preparation for an extra effort, they 
should be required to perform less than tlie ordinary amount of labor. Ex- 
perience as well as theory supports this view. Sir Isaac Newton when em- 
ployed in his most ardous labors, lived upon bread and water, and fasted for 
long intervals. General Elliot, the famous defender of Gibraltar, is said 
to have subsisted for a number of days on a little boiled rice. The wonderful 
"L'Homme Serpente" of Paris, always fasted for twelve hours before at- 
tempting to perform his marvelous feats of agility. This plan not only se- 
cures a higher degree of efficiency in the effort made, but prevents in great 
degree, the injury liable to result from excessive exertion. When required 
to overwork for a succession of days, we have found that we were not only 
able to perform much more work, but do it with less effort at the time, and 
less exhaustion afterward, when taking a greatly reduced quantity of food, 
than when attempting to do the same work and still taking the usual quan- 
tity of food. We have no doubt that a neglect of this precaution is a not un- 
frequent cause of the sudden deaths of which we so often receive accounts, 
especially among politicians and public men. Overloading the stomach 
and overworking the brain at the same time is exceedingly dangerous. 
The man who overworks mentally must be temperate, he must exercise the 
greatest moderation in his eating, and must totally discard all stimulants 
and narcotics. A great share of the cases of apoplexy which occur, happen 
when the stomach is full. The increased clearness of intellect which resulf 
from abstemiousness, well repays one for all the self-dej^ial practice 



662 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



THE FL0\V:ER, G^AHDElSr. 



By R. Rennib McGid 



The culture of flowers is the most interesting occupation in the world— 
a never-ending source of delight. Where else can we find for the body and 
mind a recreation so beautiful, so instructive, or that will afibrd more last- 
ing pleasure, than that of tending for the floral emblems of God's love? 
What would the world be without flowers? Thanks to the all- wise Creator 
we find them everywhere. On mountain top, in shady dell, midst towering 
rocks and along the banks of rippling brooks. They are as free as the air 
we breathe, and who shall say they do not teach of our Father's love, wis- 
dom and wondrous power? Whose head but His could put this exquisite 
coloring into the Jacqueminot Rose, or design the curious petals of the Pas- 
sion flower? Beautiful objects as these are to the naked eye, how much 
more so do they become even under the simplest form of a microscope. We 
may take the keenest razor that can be obtained, place it under a microscope, 
and the edge will appear jagged, coarse and rough, and full of imperfections. 
Not so with Nature's handiwork, for the more critically it is examined, the 
more its hidden perfections surprise us, and we are forced to exclaim: "0 
Lord ! how manifold are thy works ; in wisdom hast thou made them all. 

The culture of flowers teaches industry, patience and hope. No one ex- 
pects flowers to grow on hard, uncultivated ground ; hence we must spade it 
or plow it, then industriously weed it, or else our plants would soon be choked 
up. We sow the seeds in hope that they will spring and reward our care by 
producing beautiful flowers, and we must cultivate the virtue of patience be- 
cause some plants are great sluggards, while the tendency of men and things 
in this age is to be in a hurry. The industry with which this recreation has 
been pursued, shows itself plainly in the great number of the highly im- 
proved plants which adorn the gardens of the present day in contrast to those 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 663 



which were cultivated some fifty years ago. Take, for instance, the Pansy, 
a flower that is universally known and loved the world over. It is only a 
little more than half a century ago that the improvements began in this little 
flower. A few years ago there were but few books or magazines published 
devoted to flowers ; now there is hardly a periodical but that has at least one 
or more columns relating to the subject, while floricultural books, magazines 
and catalogues are scattered broadcast all over the land. Many of these are 
highly embellished with beautiful engravings and colored plates which 
create a desire for possession of plants thus pictured. In this way the florist's 
business has assumed enormous proportions so that it is quite common to 
meet with a greenhouse in a town of very few hundred inhabitants. It is a 
wholesome occupation. Ladies who fancied themselves so completely broken 
down in health that they have wished for death, in several instances 
which have come under my observation have been induced to take a little 
exercise daily among the flowers. The desire to do something took posses- 
sion of the patient, the efi'ortof setting out a plant here, pulling a weed there, 
scratching the surface of the soil with a light rake became a pleasure, and 
while they were doing this they were slowly and surely returning to health. 
The slight action necessary to labor with the few tools needed for ladies' 
gardening operation is just sufficient to set the blood into proper activity, and 
in every instance that I recommended it, I have been told that it worked 
wonders. A few years ago it was considered unwholesome to have plants in 
the house, but it has been proved by the most positive demonstration that 
such is not the case. And here let me introduce a few lines from a correspon- 
dent. "Flowers forni one of the most important factors in civilization. It 
seems to have pleased the all-wise maker of the universe to beautify the hill- 
sides, the valley, the forest, and even the low ground that is nearly or quite 
covered with water with lovely and beautiful flowers. Then why should not 
man, who was made after the image of his Maker, and has some of those long- 
ings for the beautiful and the perfect follow such a pleasing example and culti- 
vate the flowers that have been given him so plentifully and thereby beau- 
tify his home ?" Flowers are associated with all that is bright and beautiful 
on earth. They have a language and they speak to us of Nature and Nature's 
God. The following beautiful lines so thoroughly echo my feelings that I 
feel safe in advising all to make use of the sentiments conveyed in them : 

Make your home beautiful— bring to it flowers, 

Plant them around you to bud and to bloom; 

Let them give light to your loneliest hours- 
Let them give light to enliven your gloom. 

If you can do so, O make it an Eden 

Of beauty and gladness almost divine; 
'Twill teach you to long for that home you are needing, 

The earth robed in beauty beyond this dark clime." 



664 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



THE OUT DOOE GARDEN. 

As to the exact situation for a flower garden, it is not always in our 
power to choose. A level spot, however, is preferred, for if it slopes to any 
extent, heavy rains will wash away the soil. The best location is one having 
a southern aspect, sheltered from the north and west winds. A location 
which lies to some other aspect, the east for example will answer, but an 
inclination to the north or west or any point between these should be 
avoided if possible. 

The soil must be rich. In our western country it is abundantly fertile, 
but if it is not so, it must be brought into that condition by heavy manuring 
and deep working. If it is clayey and heavy, sand will make it light, and if 
it is too sandy, wood ashes and well rotted manure will be of great benefit to 
it. Have it made deep, rich and dry — not too dry — and you have what ia 
wanted for your flower garden as far as soil is concerned. If the ground is 
very poor, it will pay to cart it oflS altogether and replace it with better. 
That which may be obtained from an old cow pasture is the best for this pur- 
pose I have ever found. Where decayed forest leaves can be had, a portion 
may be advantageously mixed with the soil. 

The best time to commence a flower garden is in the Autumji, so that by 
the middle of October the beds may be in readiness to receive the bulbous 
and many of the herbaceous plants and such shrubs as are usually set out at 
that season. The work therefore may for this be commenced in say Sep- 
tember ; if it must be deferred until Spring let work be begun then at the 
earliest moment the soil will work without sticking to the spade. But aa 
Autumn is decidedly the best time, we will proceed to the laying out of the 
flower garden. The writer is not what is known as a landscape gardener, 
nor is it his design to give elaborate plans, for those who can afford to lay 
out a garden in a luxurious manner will be likely to call in the services of an 
expert. As to the style, it may be either square, round, oblong or irregular, 
and in such manner as the taste of the owner may suggest. It is usually 
most convenient to lay ofi' thefground into beds, or walks may be made and 
the adjoining ground planted with shrubs or low ornamental trees for a back- 
ground and in front of these tall-growing herbaceous perennial plants may 
find a place. Let the garden be leveled, the walks laid out, and dug out as 
well if it is proposed to fill them in with gravel, broken bricks or small 
stones ; the next thing in order will be the edging. F6r this purpose there is 
nothing to my mind so neat as box, but it is seldom seen now-a-days, indeed 
I can not call to mind having seen a garden in the West where the edgings 
are made of box. Grass makes a neat edging where it is well kept ; pinks, 
too, make a pretty and fragrant edging, and one of the Sedums which bears 
a star-like yellow flower is very pretty, but needs frequent trimming to keep 
it within bounds, — any or all of these may be used by way of a border. 

There are some who will not go to all the trouble to lay out a flower gar- 
den. A simple way then is to make one upon the grass, as the beds are 
simply cut out of the lawn, then raised in the middle so that water will 
run off and then planted. This system can be elaborated to a wonderful 
extent, as those who may have seen the so called "carpet beds" in the South 
l>ark of Chicago will admit. The plan is wrought out by putting together 
various low growing plants so that when grown they represent the design of 
the artist, sometimes a dial, again some prominent man. Indeed there is no 
end to what may be done in this way, although it requires a great many 
plants. The little star and ribbon beds are made by first cutting the bed, to 
the proper shape, and then filling in with plants whose flowers will produce 
the colors desired. One of the most beautiful stars of an azure blue was 
wrought out with sky blue pansies. A graceful ribbon bed had tall growing 
asters for the background, followed by lines of verbenas and phloxes of var- 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 665 



ious colors. Two beds that I made years ago were constructed thus : For 
centre of circle, a white foliage plant, cineraria maritima, around that a ring of 
golden phyrethrum, next a circle of Master Christine geranium, (light pink), 
the whole edged with blue lobelia. The ribbon bed had dahlias for the back 
ground, then a line of perilla, a dark level foliage plant, next a row of scar- 
let flowered geraniums, then a line of dwarf yellow coleus, and the outside 
row of all,verbenas. In addition there should be other beds reserved for plant 
ing of choice bulbs and the small annuals that are not showy except in masses. 
Three feet square is a fair size for such beds, though they may be propor- 
tioned to the size of the garden, but above all things do not contract the 
walks at the expense of the appearance of your garden, 

WHAT TO PLANT. 

The garden being prepared in the fall of the year as suggested, roots of 
herbaceous plants may be procured and set out. Among those which now 
occur to me are Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Phloxes, Canterbury-bells, 
Eed-hot Poker Plant, Columbine and Golden Rod. The common or popular 
name is purposely given. All are easily cultivated for as a rule they v/ill 
grow where anything will. Once in three years they should be divided and 
transplanted. Division should be done either at the end of Summer or at 
the time of making garden in the Spring. 

ABOUT LILIES. 

All lilies should be moved in the fall, say October, and when they are 
to be grown in beds let these be about three feet wid3 and as long as you 
please. Put the lily bulbs in deep — not less than six inches — and keep a 
mulch or covering of straw over them the first year. Old, half-decayed 
leaves from the woods is the very best for the purpose, but when these can 
not be obtained straw will do very well. Lilies form two sets of roots ; the 
first start from the base of the bulbs shortly after planting and remain as 
long as there is life in the bulb. When the flower stem is formed another 
set of roots grows on top of the bulbs whereby the species is increased, for 
among these the young bulbs are found. Nearly all of the hardy lilies thrive 
best in a cool, moist soil, one that does not become hard and dry in Summer. 
It is not necessary, however, to plant them in wet, boggy soils, but a soil that 
is constantly moist is preferable to one that parts with all its moisture in 
time of drought. 

Some lilies do better in boxes than in the garden, particuly Auratum, 
Candidum and Brownii. The pot, box, or tub should be large enough to hold 
at least one peck of soil, which should be good garden soil, rather sandy. 
Set the bulb at least six inches below the surface of the soil, and press firmly 
with the hand. Give water enough to keep them from drying away — little 
while resting — plenty when growing. Set anywhere until severe cold weather, 
then remove to the cellar. If kept too warm, a spindling growth will result. 
When mild weather comea bring them to the air and light. 

The so-called "Easter Lily" (L. Candidum) and Lily of Purity (L. 
Harrisii) , the latter being an improvement of the old L. Langiflorum, bear 
forcing, that is by a certain treatment are made to bloom outside of their 
natural season. These two varieties are most extensively grown by commer- 
cial florists to produce cut flowers for Easter. Mr. Peter Henderson, who 
probably stands at the head of the florist's profession in America, says that 
the method is to pot the Candidum bulbs in six-inch pots any time from 
September until the fore part of December, sinking the pot containing the 
early potted bulbs out of doors in a sheltered warm spot, and covering with 
leaves as cold weather approaches, so they shall not get frozen at any time. 



I 



666 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



Those that are potted later, say from the middle of November, should be 
plunged in the same way in a cool greenhouse or in a cold frame. This last 
is simply an ordinary hot-bed frame having a glass cover. When the pots 
are filled with roots, they maj- be brought to a higher temperature, say 55° at 
night, and 10° to 15° higher in the day-time. If the pots are well filled with 
roots, the bulbs will come into bloom from eight to ten weeks after being 
placed in that temperature. The treatment as given will answer also for the 
Lily of Purity, except that it should first be put in four-inch pots and remain 
there until the plant is three or four inches high. Then change to a six-inch 
putting the ball on the bottom, so that all or nearly all of the new soil is on 
top of the bulb. Soon after flowering this variety will show a disposition to 
rest, and it may remain in the pot or box until September. Then repot and 
treat as before, but after two years of this forcing 'the bulb will have become 
exhausted that it will be advisable to plant it in the lily bed out-doors to 
recuperate. 

There are so many lilies in cultivation that the inexperienced are often 
unable to decide upon what they should purchase. Let such by way of a 
beginning get a bulb of each of these, Auratum, Candidum, Lancifolum- 
rubrum and album, Harrisii and double Tiger. When one has learn to grow 
these successfully then money may be invested in the more costly, but beau- 
tiful Brownii and the California lilies. 

HOLLAND BULBS. 

The person wno would have a beautiful flower garden from the earliest 
days of returning spring, must procure and plant in the fall, some of the so- 
called Holland Bulbs. These consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissuses, Cro- 
cuses, Snowdrops and others. The soil for bulbs should contain a liberal 
proportion of sand — at least one third. In planting, always measure the 
depth from the top of the bulb. Small bulbs and tubes, such as crocus, 
snowdrop, Spanish iris, ranunculus and anemone, should be planted about 
two inches deep; tulips and narcissuses, three inches; hyacinths, four 
inches ; and crown imperials, five. The cost of these bulbs has been so 
greatly reduced in late years, that an almost nominal sum put into them 
will amply repay for the very slight labor that is required to bring them into 
bloom. Cover the buds thoroughly after the frost sets in, with four or six 
inches of old manure, hay, straw, or dry leaves. Plant the bulbs where they 
need not be disturbed for several years, especially the narcissuses and snow- 
drops. Hyacinths, crocuses and tulips should be taken up every third year. 
This should be done after the bulbs ripen in the summer. 

What has been said will bring us up to the closing months of the year, 
a time when little or no further work can be done in the flower garden, so try 
head work during the winter. Make a definite plan of the arrangement of 
the beds for next summer, and the effects your proposed combination are 
likely to produce. It is customary in the larger gardens to draw diagrams 
of the flower beds upon paper, and color these with such tints as they will be 
likely to assume when in flower. Read up all good literature bearing on this 
subject ; decide upon what you want to purchase in the way of trees, shrubs, 
plants, bulbs or seeds ; make out your order early, and place it in the hands 
of some reliable person, for execution. Deal always with principals; — no 
agents, — then if any thing turns out contrary to expectations ; a pleasant 
letter to the person or firm, from whom you purchased, will generally bring 
about a satisfactory settlement. 

SPRING FLOWEES. 

The advent of spring is usually announced by the bloom of the crocuses 
and snowdrops; indeed they are often seen pushing their pretty flowers 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 667 



through the snow. As soon as may be after this, remove the litter which 
has lain upon the bulb beds, not all at once, lest a severe frost kill the tender 
shoots just peeping above the ground. Soon the other bulbs will appear, 
the narcissuses, the hyacinths, and the tulips will add their beauty and 
fragrance. 

While the bulbs are coming rapidly forward into bloom, preparations 
for the garden which is to be the summer glory and autumn pride, may be 
attended to. "We will assume that the seeds of annuals have been obtained ; 
let us take some of the more tender varieties and sow them in boxes in the 
house, so that they will be stout plants when wanted to set out in the open 
ground in May and June. To fill out some of the beds, verbenas, pansies, 
phloxes stocks, petunias, and the various kinds of Japan pinks will be in 
order, and all of these can be much forwarded into early bloom by being sown 
in the house. Cigar boxes are very handy, but the bottom must first be per- 
forated, and broken pots or shells put in the bottom for drainage. Then take 
good, rich earth and rub it through a sieve, or your fingers will answer, to 
take out all the lumps. Fill the boxes and then carefully sprinkle the seed 
over the surface of the soil ; sift on enough soil to cover the seed, sprinkle 
with water very gently, and then set in a rather dark place. If it is warm, 
the seed will start earlier. A pane of glass laid over, or even a sheet of oiled 
paper, is a great help. If you can give them a warm place, the seeds will 
start sooner. We might here sugest the use of a Hot Bed, but this requires 
more care in construction and operation than an amateur can be supposed 
to bestow. This is the way to proceed, however ; You take an old box, say 
about five or six feet long and three feet wide, and with an old window sash 
for a covering, you have what gardeners call a Cold Frame. A hole the size 
of the box is dug two or three feet deep and filled in with strawy manure 
which should be well trampeled down until full. Put about six inches of 
soil over the manure, and on this set your box, carefully heaping the earth 
around the outside and put on the glass cover. In a few days the heat will 
be up, when the top must be opened some to allow the firey heat to escape. 
This done, put in the seed boxes. But whether you have a hot bed, or not, 
once the seeds are sown let them remain in partial darkness several days, for 
the seeds to swell, and keep the earth moist ; if the seedlings get dry even 
once, they are ruined. As soon as you see them sprouting give light and air ; 
if not too cold ; or else the seedlings will spindle and die. When the tiny 
little plants have four or more leaves ; transplant into small pots and there 
let them grow until wanted to set in the beds. To do this, first dig a hole 
and pour a little water into it, then turn the pot over, strike it a smart rap 
and the ball of earth will come out with the plant ; place it in the hole and 
press the earth around it. Plants set out with balls go right to growing, and 
seldom need any shading ; but it is well to transplant in the evening or on 
a clear day. In the open air towards the last of April may be sown asters, 
balsams, candytuft, phlox, petunias, zinnias, cockscomb, larkspur 
and indeed almost any of the hardy annuals. These mentioned will bear 
transplanting. Those who admire sweet peas should get the seed of_ these 
in the open ground as soon as it can be worked. Plant about three inches 
deep, and give brush for support. Then there is the Escholotz, a (California 
poppy), very showy, having a long tap root, and Mignonette, which, with the 
sweet peas, must be sown where they are to bloom, as they do not take 
kindly to transplanting. 

CLIMBING VINES. 

Vines, while they are the most graceful of plants, are very easily culti- 
vated. The Maderia vine is one of the easiest grown, and a very rapid 
climber. In the spring put a tuber in the ground as you would a potato, and 



\f 



668 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

in a very short time it will cover a large space. Dig up the roots in fall and 
winter, same as potatoes in a cellar. 

For a most graceful climber and a rapid grower, as well as beautiful 
bell-shaped flowers ; there is nothing equal to the cobea. The seeds are very- 
thin, almost fiat, and require to be planted on their edges. Needs consid- 
erable heat to start the seed. Florists usually supply young plants for less 
than amateurs can raise them for. Being tender, the cobea must not be set 
out doors until the weather is quite warm. 

The cypress vine, both red and white, with their lovely foliage, are very 
beautiful trained upon strings. I remember of a post with a bird-house on 
top. At the base the ground was spaded up in a circle some three feet across, 
and cypress vine trained from there upon strings to the alighting board of the 
bird-house. It was much admired. The seeds of the cypress vine, canna 
and other hard shelled kinds may be hastened in germination by soaking for 
24 hours in warm water. 

Maurandia is a somewhat delicate vine that comes readily from seed. 
It does well on trellesis or even brush, such as given to support peas. A few 
maurandia seeds placed in a cow's horn, previously filled with soil, has given 
us a most beautiful living screen in the parlor window. Strings were woven 
backward and forward for it to run upon, and it has done well. 

Nasturtiums, — the tall growing kinds, are pretty grown upon strings or 
trellesis during summer. 

Gourds, with their curious and wonderful forms, are worthy of culti- 
vation. One of the most singular is what is called the "nest-egg", from the 
fact that the fruit makes an excellent substitute for the nest-egg in the 
poultry-house. The fruit is in shape, size and color, as near as can be, a 
counterfeit egg. The dipper gourd is made by cutting av^'ay the side of Her- 
cules club. The so-called sugar-trough variety is useful for many purposes. 

There are one or two other climbing vines which onCe grown are sure to 
become permanent favorites. These are the Balsam Apple and Pear and 
Bryonopsis Laciniata. The fruit of the latter is very attractive and the foliage 
as graceful as can be imagined. 

The vines that have been spoken of are all annuals, that is, the seed is 
sown from which plants spring up, bloom, mature their seed and then die 
all in one season. There are a few vines whose roots are perennial, and 
which may be grown from seed sown in Autumn. One of these is the Alle- 
gheny Vine, or Mountain Fringe.* It is quite common in the woods in East- 
ern States, but I have never seen it wild elsewhere. For beautiful featherly- 
like foliage and gracefulness it has no equal. It stands our severe Iowa 
winters with impunity. 

The Everlasting Sweet Pea is another beautiful plant which grows to a 
wonderful size with age. Its flowers much resembles the ordinary Sweet 
Peas only that they are firmer, and, I think, more fragrant. 

For covering a wall there is nothing equal to a well-established "Wisteria. 
It produces lovely purple flowers in great clusters which hang down like 
bunches of grapes. It has the disadvantage of being rather a slow grower, 
requiring from five to seven years to get thoroughly established, Those who 
can patiently wait, however, will be amply rewarded, for it is a most mag- 
nificent vine. 

The Trumpet Creeper and Honeysuckle are hardy as oaks, and are not 
excelled as vines to cover porches, outhouses, etc. 

BEDDING PLANTS. 

The plants that are chiefly used for this purpose are geraniums, coleus, 
verbenas, and roses. There are others which are admirably adapted, but 
are not near so popular as these I have named. The shapes of the beds may 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 669 



be as previously given ; but while beds constructed after those plans are very 
handsome, I am more in favor of oblong beds, say ten or fifteen feet long, and 
five or six feet wide. The center will afi"ord space for tall growing plants, 
while those of dwarf habit can be planted in the front. To my mind, 
the prettiest flower beds are those which have plenty of clean bright grass 
around them for a back-ground. 

Most people make it a rule to have some house plants in winter, and of 
these, geraniums, as a rule, will be found in the greatest proportion. When 
spring comes it is customary to plant them out of doors just as soon as the 
days begin to grow warm, and often many plants are lost because they 
were not sufficiently hardened to undergo the change of temperature from 
the house to the open air. A better plan is to wait until the nights are 
warm, and in a northern latitude, from the middle to the last of May is early 
enough to put them out of doors, and it is well even then to place them 
on a covered porch for a day or two. 

Coleus, more popularly known as foliage plants, are in great demand for 
bedding. They are cultivated for the beautiful leaf markings, the flowers 
being insignificant. There are some hundreds of varieties, some diflfering as 
much in habit and color as day and night, while there are other sorts which 
require the practical eye of an expert to detect any diflerence. 

Heliotropes and Lantanas make excellent bedding plants. They bloom 
freely, are easily grown and need no particular attention. 

The Verbena is one of the most popular bedding plants in cultivation. It 
is grown readily from seed, and embraces nearly every shade of color in its 
flowers. They do best in a piece of new ground, such as can be cut out of a 
grass plot in front of the house, removing the sods and digging the ground 
thoroughly, One plant in ground so prepared will cover from three to five 
feet of space, 

The Pansy is a splendid bedding plant. It does best in a partially shaded 
situation. The north side of a house, for instance. 

For brilliancy in color and duration in bloom, nothing can equal Phlox 
Drummondi. Tliie Candytuft, in mixture, Clarkia and Nemophila all look 
pretty each grown in a mass. This is done by sowing the seed where it is 
intended they should bloom. 

One of the most beautiful beds the writer possessed was composed of 
Balsams in many varieties. Another beautiful one was composed of Ger- 
mantown week stock. 

I have in mind a garden in New Jersey which was a mass of flowers from 
early Spring until late Fall, and nearly all were what one calls herbaceous 
perennials. The roots of these live over winter and go on increasing with 
great rapidity. All the care needed is division of the roots once in two or 
three years. Of these, I have in mind a dozen or more varieties of Poenies, 
Phloxes, Lychnis, Columbines, Canterbury Bells, and some others whose 
names I do not now remember. The Sweet William and the China Pink 
were there, too, in great abundance. 



There is nothing which can impart a greater charm to the yard about 
the house, than a few well grown shrubs. They need not be manj^, and they 
need not be of expensive varieties. Some of the old kinds are still the best 
for general use. because they are quite as beautiful as the newer sorts and 
we know how to treat them so that there will be no experiment in undertaking 
their cultivation. The deutzias are all fine, so are the spireas and weige- 
lias. For places where a large bush is wanted, there are the lilacs, the 
mock orange, the hawthorns and viburnums. For trellesis, you can get 
nothing better than the hardy honeysuckle ; they will give flowers all the 



570 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



season, both beautiful and fragrant. If you want the best effect from them, 
plant the red and white varieties together, and let the branches of the two 
mingle over the trellis. They are excellent plants for an arch over the gate 
or porch. The clematis is another hardy plant suitable for arbors, ete. 



SUMMER BLOOMING BULBS. 



A bulb is really an underground bud which contains within itself the 
leaves and flowers of the future plant. Further back we spoke of planting 
the Holland bulb as they are called. In the early spring aaother planting of 
bulbs and tubers will give us beautiful flowers in summer. 



These have been much improved of late years and are very showy 
flowers which is all the recommendation we can give them. Still they have 
their admirers. Dry tubers can be had quite early in the spring and then 
are planted iu pots or boxes in the house or a hot bed, if it is to be had, to 
start them. In May they may be planted out in the bed or border where 
they are to bloom. The tall growing kinds will require tying to sticks. The 
dwarf or pompone varieties are much in demand now-a-days, 

GLADIOLUS. 

These proauce nowers oi various colors and are well worthy of the very 
slight attention they require. They are natives of the Cape of Good Hope 
and are sometimes known as the "Corn Lily," By hybridization and culti- 
vation of the seedling there are thousands of distinct varieties and the cost 
is very slight, some florists selling them as low as 50 cents per dozen. The 
bulbs should be set in the ground as soon as the weather is settled, in good 
soil, that which will grow good corn or vegetables will answer. Put the 
bulbs in deep — about 6 inches for the larger ones, and the smaller ones propor- 
tionately less. In a short time they will throw up spikes which will grow 
two feet high and upwards and to prevent a sudden gust of wind from break- 
ing the spikes off, neat stakes should be provided and the spikes tied to 
them. When done blooming cut away the flower spikes — not the leaves — 
and allow the bulb to ripen. It will be ready to dig when the leaves have 
turned dry and yellow. When dug it will be found there are at least two 
and often three bulbs in place of one planted, so rapidly do they increase. 
Keep in the house over winter in a dry state and plant out again the follow- 
ing spring. 

TUBEROSES. 

The best bulbs for flowering are those which are large and plump. Those 
which are wanted to bloom very early should be started in April or May in 
pots or boxes of earth set in a green house, hot-bed or even a warm room. 
In about four or five weeks later they may be put^in the garden, where they 
will usually bloom in August. But supposing you, by some means, had no 
opportunity to start them in the manner suggested, proceed as follows: 
Prepare the ground by deep digging and apply old manure liberally, then 
first having removed all the offsets which are clustered around the large bulbs, 
plant the bulbs in rows twelve inches apart, and six inches apart in the 
rows, setting them three inches deep. Keep the ground at all times free 
from weeds, and well stirred up by the use of a hoe. After the first frost, 
which usually occurs in October, the bulbs should be lifted and allowed to 
dry in the sun a day or two, being careful to protect from frost at night. 
When thoroughly dried they should be cleaned, removing the leaves and 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



allowing two or three inches of the stalk to remain ; then store in a warm 
closet until wanted for planting. 

The very small bulbs or offsets are planted like peas in rows one foot 
apart, six inches between every two bulbs in the row, and three or four 
inches deep. Cultivate the same as the full-grown bulbs, and these offserts 
with two years' cultivation will form bulbs of blooming size. 

CANNA.S. 

To my mind these are the handsomest and most stately of all the summer 
blooming bulbs. They are chiefly used as ornamental plants at the backs of 
borders on lawns. They grow readily from seeds, which are very hard, and 
should be soaked in tepid water before sowing. The most common way to 
get these plants, however, is to buy a tuber from a florist in the spring; 
Do not put it out in the open ground until the weather has become warm — 
say the first of June. At that time make a hole about eighteen inches square, 
and put in a good supply of old manure, cover with an inch or two of soil, 
and on this place your canna tuber. If the weather is favorable by August, 
this tuber will have produced from four to six stalks, usually about six feet 
high, surmounted by lovely flowers. There are several varieties, and in 
nearly all of them both the foliage and the bloom is different. The roots are 
difficult to keep over winter, but where one has a real warm room, dig up the 
roots after first frost and set in a warm place to evaporate the moisture. In 
the greenhouse we keep these by the sides of the flues and even then loose 
some to rot. The seedlings usually bloom the second year. 

CALADIUM ESCULENTUM. 

Where one wants a really odd plant, and one with most beautiful foliage, 
let them purchase a root of the above. In appearanee it will remind you of 
a turnip, but one never knows the beauties that are hidden away in a dry 
bulb. Let us suppose it is May and your caladium has arrived. You want 
a good large hole dug, as much as three feet across the top, aHd about two 
feet deep ; put about a foot of old manure in, then your bulb, and cover It, 
say six inches deep ; give it plenty of water at all times ; seemingly it can 
never get enough, and in a few weeks a stalk about a foot high will have 
grown, this will soon unfold and show you a leaf that from a fancied resem- 
blance to an elephant's ear, has caused this plant to be so named. I have 
grown these plants close by a wall so as to supply them abundantly with 
water and one year got a single leaf which measured thirty-three inches 
across. It bears a yellow flower, but very seldom produces one. In winter 
care is about the same as recommended for cannas. 



One more bulb is the summer blooming oxalis. For the border of a bed 
or a walk there is nothing so economical and beautiful. A hundred bulbs of 
these can be bought for ten cents, and these planted in a row about three 
inches apart, will by fall have increased to thousands. There are two 
varieties, Lasindria, the largest with a light green leaf, and a pretty pink 
upright flower, does not increase so rapidly as Dieppi which has dark foliage 
and a dwarf creeping habit. 

None of the summer bulbs will endure our northern winters. All must 
be dug up in fall, carefully dried, and kent free from frost until planting time 
comes again. 



672 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



MISOELLAISTEOUS. 



Milk For Babies. — The following is one mode of preparing the milk: Al- 
low one-third of a pint of new milk to stand for about twelve hours, remove 
the cream and add to it two-thirds of a pint of new milk, as fresh from the 
cow as possible. Into the one-third of a pint of blue milk left after the ab- 
straction of the cream, put a piece of rennet about one inch square. Set the 
vessel in warm water until the milk is fully curdled, an operation requiring 
from five to fifteen minutes, according to the activity of the rennet, which 
should be removed as soon as the curdling commences, and put into an egg 
cup for use on subsequent occasions, as it may be employed daily for a month 
or two. Break up the curd repeatedly, and carefully separate the whole of 
the whey, which should then be rapidly heated to boiling in a small tin pan 
placed over a spirit or gas lamp. During the heating a further quantity of 
casein, technically called 'fleetings', separates, and must be removed by 
straining through muslin. Now dissove 110 grains of powdered sugar of 
milk in the hot whey, and mix it with the two-thirds of a pint of new milk to 
which the cream from the other third of a pint was added as already de- 
scribed. The artificiallmilk should be used within twelve hours of its prep- 
aration, and it is almost needless to add that all the vessels employed in ita 
manufacture and administration should be kept scrupulously clean. Where 
pure milk is used without the preparation above, give for first five days, two 
tablespoons cream to a gill of filtered soft water. After that, the following 
table of proportions and daily quantity have been given by a physician and 
may be of help to many : 

Table. 

Milk. 

days old 1^ gills. 

days old IM 

days old 2^ 

months old 3 

months old 33^ 

months old 4 

months old 4)4 

months old 5 

months old 5^ 

months old 6 

months old 6)^ 

months old 7 

months old 7 

months old 8 

months old 8}4 

months old 8^ 

months old 8^ 

months old 9 

months old 9 

months old 9}4 

months onwards 10 



For a< 


ihild from 


5 


to 10 




<< 


10 


to 20 




<( 


20 


to 30 




<( 


1 


to 1}4 




(( 


ly? 


to 2 




<( 


2 


to 2K 




(( 


2H 


to 3 




*i 


3 


to 3K 




n 


sy^ 


to 4 




n 


4 


to 4)^ 




<( 


4'^ 


to 5 




(( 


5 


to 6 




(< 


6 


to 7 




(( 


7 


to 8 




<< 


8 


to 9 




(( 


9 


to 10 




It 


10 


to 11 




(( 


11 


to 12 




(( 


12 


to 15 




tt 


15 


to 18 




<( 


18 


moi 



Water. 


3K gills. 


4M 




6 




6^ 




7 




7H. 




7^ 




7H. 




W9. 




7% 




7% 




7 




6)^ 




6 




6 




6 




6 




5^ 




5K 




5 




5 





d 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



673 



Hanging Shelves.- 




The side pieces of this hanging cupboard are fastened 
to the joists of tlie cellar. The rest of 
_ the plan is fully explained by the 
cut. It is very convenient for many 
uses and is out of the way of cats, 
rats and mice, and if put up where 
passers are not likely to strike their 
heads against it, is a desirable addi- 
tion to the cellar equipment. It may 
be made any size. 

Protection for the Lap. — The lap 
pad descibed below is very little 
trouble, and will serve to protect 
one's dress from the soiling which is 
inevitable when holding Baby in the lap very long, especially while travel- 
ing. Take two pieces of 



muslin or 
Marseilles, each one-half yard square ; 
put together with a layer of cotton 
wadding between. Turn in the edges 
al'l around and baste between the 
pieces an edging of embroidery ; stitch 
twice around on the machine. Quilt ;^ 
the pad in diamonds, or any fancy 
pattern. 

Castle Salve for Burns. — Boil ten 
cents worth of tobacco and pint of 
cider together for fifteen minutes in a 
new tin vessel ; strain and add to 
liquid fourth pound each butter, lard, 
beeswax and resin and wine glass 
whiskey. Boil slowly till liquor is all 
evaporated. Put away in a tin box 
and use as a salv» for all burns. It is a perfect cure for the most severe cases 
and gives quick relief. Has been tried often in very severe ~ 
cases. Apply like any salve. Whiting mixed with water 
and applied to a burn is also very efficacous. Diluted al- 
cohol (two-thirds water) is also a good remedy. 

In Washing Children's Stockings, wooden stocking 
forms are a great help on which to 
dry them. Obtain them at the fur- 
nishing store, or have them made 
without much expense. 

Ironing Board. — A very handy 
board for ironing dresses, shirts and 
in fact garments of all descriptions, can be made by^ any 
one who can handle a saw, plane and square. The illus- 
tration shows how the board is notched near the ends to 
allow of the tips of the chairs passing through. Place 
the clothes' basket on one of the chairs. 

After Eating Onions. — To prevent odor of onion in 
breath, drink milk, or eat a piece of cheese. 

To cleanse a nursing Bottle.— To cleanse a water caraffe, or nursing bottles, 
cut a potato in small pieces, put»in bottle with a little water and shake. 






674 



MISCELLANEOUS, 




Arrowroot Blanc-mange. — Make as directed in Creams and Custards, 
cooling in individual molds. In serving, a dainty way is on a tray witb 
cream and sugar and a small 
vase of flowers, as illustrated. 
Any of the blanc-manges or 
jellies given in this department 
may be served thus and prove 
much more appetizing to the 
patient. 

Uncooked Egg. — This is 

quite palatable, and very 

strengthening, and may be 

prepared in a variety of ways. 

Break an egg into a goblet and 

beat thoroughly.- add a tea- 
spoon sugar, and after beat- " 

ing a moment add a teaspoon or two of brandy or port wine ; beat well ano 
i^Sv^ add as much rich milk, or part cream and milk, as there 
fpr'/ '"^^ is of the mixture. Or emit brandy and flavor with any 
kind of spice ; or milk need not be rdded, ov the egg and 
sugar may be beaten separately, wine or brandy added, 
stirring in lightly the well whipped whites at the last, and 
thus made it should fill a goblet to overflowing. Juice ol 
a lemon in place of brandy gi\'ea Lemon Egg-nog. 

Poached Eggs.— This is a very delicate way of prepar- 
ing eggs, and 
when served 
on slices of 
toast, gar- 
nished with 
sprigs of crisp 
parsley, they make a very pret- 
ty as well as appetizing dish. poached Eggs. 

Home- 3Iade Folding Bath Tub. — This bath-tub is inexpensive^ convenient. 
and comfortable for a little bather. The frame is made something like a cot- 
be^. The legs, one inch and a haM square by thirty inches long, are crossed 

and pivoted in the middle on & 
center tar. The side-bars, one 
inch by two inches, and thirty 
six inches long, are securely 
fastened to the top of the legs. 
Smaller bars join the legs near 
the bottom to stifl"en the frame. 
A piece of heavy rubber cloth, 
one yard and a quarter long and 
thirty inches wide, has an inch- 
wide hem on each end for a cas- 
ing, and is drawn up to eighteen 
or nineteen inches, with heavy 
braid. This makes the ends of 
the tub. Along the side-bars of 
the frame^re tacked, with brass-headed tacks, the sides of the cloth, with 
braid being securely fastened to the ends. A small plait in the cloth a.t each 
corner, about an inch from the end, gives a fuller shape to hold the water. 
The tub, when not in use, can be folded and set away out of eight. A E;-i 
low put in the tub makes a comfortable and portable crib. 






INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



675 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES- 



Fried 

Fried whole 286 

Fried with pork 286 

Fool 290 

Fortress 290 

Frosted 287 

Frozen 304 

Iced 287 

Jellied 285,287 

Marbled 287 

Meringue. 292 

Meringued 287 

Paste 317 

Porridge 291 

Sago 291 

Snow 291 

Spiced 285 

Steamed 285 

Stewed 285 

StuflFed 285 

Tapioca 292 

Toast 292 

To keep 638 

Transparency 288 

Trifle 292 

Valuable use of 283 

Varieties 63S 

Apple Sauce 291 

Baked 291,638 

Cider 291 

Cider, imitation 291 

Dried 313 

Black 314 



It will help those who consult this hook to remember that the recipes 
of each department in Cookery, as well as the departments themselves are 
arranged in the simple order of the alphabet, so far as has been possible, 
and that the "running head" at the top of each page shows, in a general way, 
the subject treated. The "Table of Contents" (page 4) gives the pages of the 
various departments. The following is a full alphabetical index of the recipes 
and subjects treated. All recipes for Cookery appear in the main index • 
those relating to housekeeping and household matters generally will be 
found under the Supplementary Index. 

Page. 

A.CID. 

Strawberry 189 

Strawberry, royal,. . .189 

A.LMONDS. 

Candled 311 

Flowers 499 

Salted 309 

Shelled 142 

Tablets 499 

To blanch 142 

To buy 142 

To powder 142 

To select 142 

Varietyof 281 

Ambrosia 307 

APPLES 281,638,641 

And grapes 293 

And quinces ...293 

Baked 284 

Baked, with syrup. ..285 

Blushed 285 

Cakes 288 

Candied 311 

Canned 102 

Cheese 545 

Chocolate 289 

Coddled 286 

Compote 289 

Cream 290 

Creamed 286 

Dried 313 

Dumplings 549 

Dumplings, baked. . .549 



Apricots. 

Frozen 304 

Gathering 642 

Paste 317 

Artichokes 604 

Asparagus ooj 

Pudding 601 

Sauce 604 

Toast 51 

Baking Powder 11 

Proportion of 33 

Bacon. 

Boiled 4.32 

Breakfast 432 

Broiled 432 

Fried 432 

Rashers of 432 

Balls. 

Batter 552 

Egg 599 

Force Meat 600 

Farina 600 

German 600 

Italian 139 

Pop-corn 153 

Veal 600 

Bananas 279, 293 

And cream 294 

Baked 294 

Fried 294 

Pie 484 

Bannocks 3a, 63 



676 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Basket. 

Macaroon 160 

Orange 160 

Bass. 
Boiled 242 

Bavarian Cream. 

Almond 163 

Blackberry 164 

Chocolate 163 

Coflfee 164 

Lemon 163 

Orange 163 

Peach 164 

Pear 164 

Pine-apple 164 

Pistachio 163 

Quantity of 159 

Raspberry 164 

Strawberry, 164 

Vauilla 163 

Beans 604 

French Style 604 

In brine 612,613 

String, dried 613 

Bed of Vegetables . . .408 

Beef. 

A la mode 409 

Boiled 405 

Bouilli 406 

Fried corned 456 

Injelly 411 

Larded, fillet of 410 

Loaf 608,532 

Molded 401 

Pot-roast of 401, 476 

Pressed 406 

Roast 408 

Roasi rump 407 

Roast, German 407 

Roast, French 407 

Roast, round 408 

Stew 408 

Stewed with tomat's 408 
Stuffed brisket of..., 415 

Beefsteak. 

Broiled 412 

Fried 413 

Hamburg 413 

Hidden 413 

Oyster 413 

Pie 414 

With Oysters 413 

Beets 605 

Berries. 

Candied 

Frosted 304 

Bills of Fare. 
Christmas Dinner. ..620 

For Spring 615 

For Summer 617 

For Fall (-.19 

For Winter 620 

New Year's Dinner. . 6U 
Thanksgiving Din- 
ner 620 

Birds. 

Fire for 320 

How to pluck . . 319 

Time to roast 3i;0 

To broil 319 

To fry 321 

To lard 401 

To roast 3-'0 

Wild flavor of 321 



Page. 

Biscuit 32 

Buttermilk S3 

Cream 34 

Fairy 34 

Italian 34 

Kenil worth 34 

Oxford 34 

Orloff . 34 

Potato 35 

Rye 35 

Soda 35 

South Carolina 35 

Spoon 35 

Stale 33 

Tea 35 

To bake 33 

To glaze 33 

Unleavened ; 85 

Blanch-Mange. 

Chocolate 160 

Farina KU 

Raspberry 161 

Rice.... 161 

Sago 161 

Vauilla i61 

Blackberries. 

Canned 98 

Dried 314,315 

Blank Pages 273-2/7 

Bloater, potted 242 

Blueberries. 

Frosted 303 

Frozen 304 

Bouillon. 

Plain 594 

Philadelphia 594 

True 594 

Brains and Tongue. . .440 

To single blanch 647 

To double blanch. . . 647 

Brawn 431,1045 

Bread. 

Anple 21 

Barley 21 

Bean 21 

Buckeye 21 

Chemistry of 11-13 

Coffee 36 

Crumbs, to dry 267 

Double 267 

Double-egg 267 

Dough 14, 15 

Easter 36 

Favorite 22 

Flour for 8, 10 

Borders 979 

Graham S, 17. 29 

Making 7-9 

Making made easy 4 

Oatmeal. 17 

Oven for 12, 18 

Potato 16 

Proof box for 15 

Quick 27 

Rice 22 

Rye 30 

Rye and Indian 29 

Rye with soda 29 

Salt Rising 23 

Single 267 

Southern Egg 44 

Sweet potato 23 

To knead 14 

To test 19 



Page 

Vienna 30 

With buttermilk 23 

With compressed 

yeast 26 

With potatoes 24 

Broma . 186 

Brown Bread. 

Boston 28 

Good 38 

With mush 28 

Brussels Sprouts 606 

Buns 36 

Bonnie 85 

Currant 36 

Hot Cross 36 

Butter. 

Apple 545 

Clarified 570, 402 

Caper 122 

Drawn 122 

Lemou 49C 

Lobster 122 

Maitre d'hote! 449 

Orange 496 

Parsley 122 

Peach 545,546 

Plum 546 

Quince 545 

Quince and apples. ..545 

Tomato 546 

Buttermilk, Iced 189 

Cabbage. 

Boiled 605 

Royal 605 

Spiced 605 

Stuffed 859 

Cacao 184 

Making 185 

Nibs 180 

Shells 186 

Cafe AU Lait 187 

Frothed .. 188 

Cake. 

Alpha 61 

Angel 61 

Apple 62-3 

Black . ..63 

Breakfast 36 

Bread 63 

Butter for 55 

Carolina 64 

Charlotte Cachee 64 

Chocolate 64 

Christmas 64 

Citron 65 

Cocoanut 65 

Coffee 65 

Cornstarch 65 

Creaming 55 

Currants for 58 

Delicate 66 

Eggless 66 

Eggs for 54 

Everlasting 66 

Favorite — 66 

Feather 66 

Fig 66 

Fig marbled 66 

Fruit ., 67 

Fruit, German 67 

Hub Fruit 67 

Fruit, pepper 67 

Fruit, pound 68 

Fruit, white Ti 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



677 



Hickory nut 08 

Huckleberry 66 

Loaf G3 

Loaf, New Eugland.. .68 

Loaf, orange 68 

Loaf, German .69 

Making 54 

Marble 69 

Mold for 59 

Moonlight 69 

Oven for 59 

Paddle for 59 

Paper cap for 59 

Peanut 69 

Plum 69 

Poor Man's 69 

Pound 69 

Pound Cocoanut 69 

Pound Measured 69 

Raisins for 57 

Rice flour 70 

Snow 70 

Spice 70 

Sponge 64, 71 

Sponge, almond 71 

Sponge, Phila 71 

Sponge, white 71 

Sponge Cocoanut 71 

Sponge Orange 71 

Sponge, vanilla 71 

Sunshine 71 

To beateggs for 54 

To beat £6 

To mix 56 

To mix fruit 56 

To test 58 

White 72 

Yellow 72 

Yule ,...72 

Zephyr 72 

Zufolos 73 

Cakes, Layer. 

Apple 74 

Apple, German 74 

Banana 74 

Caramel 74 

Chocolate. 75 

Chocolate, German... 75 

Chocolate Eclairs 80 

Cream 75 

Cream Perfection 79 

Cream rose 79 

Cream strawberry — 76 

Cream, Vienna 76 

Eggless jelly 76 

Fig 76 

Lemon Mystic 79 

Lemon Buckeye 79 

Maple 77 

Minnesota.- 77 

Metropolitan 92 

Neapolitan 78 

Orange 78 

Orange custard 78 

Cake. 

Ribbon 79 

Orange Mystic 79 

Pine apple 79 

To build 73 

To cut 74 

White Fruit 76 

White Mountain 76 

Xenophon 82 

Xebec 81 



Page. 

Cakes. 

Ginger 89 

Jew 84 

Candy. 

Peanut 143 

Rock 141 

Syrup for 141 

Stick 141 

Tongs 143 

To form 142 

To pull .. 142 

Tutti Frutti 14G 

Utensils for 140 

Canned. 

Apples 102 

Beans 103 

Blackberries 98 

Cherries 101 

Corn 103 

Corn and tomatoes.. 103 

Damsons 101 

Gooseberries 98 

Grapes 99, 101 

Grapes, green 99 

Greengages 101 

Peaches 99, 100, 102 

Peaches, cold 100 

Peaches steamed 100 

Peaches with vine- 
gar 99 

Pears" ".'."'.'.'.V.Vldd, 102 
Pears with quiuces. .101 

Pease 103 

Pieplant 101 

Pieplant, cold 101 

Pine-apple 101 

Plums 101 

Pumpkin 104 

Quinces 101 

Strawberries 102 

String beans 104 

Succotash 104 

Tomatoes 104 

Cans. 

Filler for 91 

Glass 92 

Glass, to prepare 93 

How to fill 93 

Opening 97 

Putty for 92 

Rubber rings for 

92,94,97 

Self-.sealers 92 

Stoneware 92 

Tin 92,96 

To seal 92 

To keep 92 

Cannelons 497 

Canning 90 

Berries 95 

Cold process of 95 

Different fruits 96 

Fruit for 90 

For pies 91 

How done 90 

Quantity of fruit 95 

Quantity made in 97 

Sugar for 91 

Syrup for 96, 97 

Table for 98 

Utensils for 91 

Vegetables 102 

Canion de Rouen 538 

Caramels. 



Page. 

Chocolate 148 

Cocoanut 148 

Lemon 148 

Molasses Chocolate.. 148 
Pine-appIc 148 

■. Vanilla 148 

Carrots. 

Compote C06 

Warmed over 006 

CATSUPS. 

Barberry 109 

Cherry - 1C9 

Cucumber 109 

Currant 110 

Elderberry 110 

Grape 110 

Lemon 110 

Liver JIO 

Mold on 105 

Oyster 110 

Pepper Ill 

Plum Ill 

Rule for 106 

Spatula for 105 

Strainer for 106 

To make 105 

Tomato lil 

Walnut Ill 

Cauliflower. 

Baked 606 

Salad 606 

Celery. 

And parsley. 124 

Frozen 564 

Charlotte. 

Duplex 72 

Fruit 162, 549 

Nut 162 

Strawberry 162 

Charlotte-Russe.156, 157 

Buckeye 162 

Fancy form for 157 

Filling for 156 

Mold for 156 

New England 162 

cheese. 

Apple 545 

American 125 

Bucket 129 

Cakes 129,488 

Course 128 

Cottage 134 

Crusts 129 

Cream 139 

Diablotins 129 

English 126 

Fingers 130 

Fondu 130 

Fritters 130 

Omelet 131 

Potato 135 

Pounded .' 135 

Pudding 131 

Puffs 131 

Quality of 131 

Ramakins 136 

Re Ish 131 

Sandwiches 132 

Souffle 132 

Soup 132 

Stews 132 

Straws 132 

Toasted 135 

Toasted with eggs .... 136 



678 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

To keep 127 

To ripen , 127 

To serve 127,138 

To toast 138 

Vol-au-vents 132 

With celery 135 

With eggs 132 

With Macaroni 133 

CheUries 279,294 

Canned ...101 

Candled 

Dried 314 

Frosted 303 

Frozen 304 

Sauce 295 

Chestnuts.' 
Stewed 308 

Chicken. 

And macaroni 585 

Boiled 530 

Broiled 531 

Cutlets 535 

Fillets 635 

Fillets, breaded 535 

Fillets, fried 535 

Fricassee 535 

Fried spring 531 

Fried whole 532 

In jelly 531 

Jellied 531 

Jellied, plain 532 

Larded 633 

Masked 532 

Patties 536 

Pie 536 

Pie, panned 536 

Pot-pie 537 

Pudding 537 

Quenelles 710 

Roast 533 

Roast, French 533 

Roast, pot 329 

Scalloped 511 

Smothered 533 

Steamed 534 

Stewed 534 

Totaoue 649 

To cut up 648 

Truffled 535 

Trussed 469-50 

With asparagus 537 

With oysters 534 

With rice 531 

Chocolate. 

Making 185,186 

Meriugued 186 

Whipped 187 

Chowdkr 

Citron, Candied 312 

Clam, Scalloped 582 

Clove op Garlic 502 

Cobbler. 

Apple 498 

Berry 498 

Cherry 498 

Peach 498 

Plum 498 

Cocoanut 281,309 

Cones 149 

Patties 143 

Puffs 309 

To dry 309 

To prepare 60, 189 

■Sod. 
Boiled 242 



Page. 

Pie 243 

Sounds 244 

Sounds with force- 
meat 243 

Cod Fish. 

A la mode 244 

And eggs 244 

Fritters 244 

Roll 243 

Scalloped 244 

Coffee. 

Crust 187 

Iced..... 187 

Iced crust 187 

Imperial 187 

Making 

177,178,179 

Strainer 180 

Syrup 188 

To buy 175 

To grind 177 

To heat 179 

To roast 176 

Coffee Pot, to clean. .179 

Cold Beef. 

And oyster pie 400 

Broiled 458 

Loaf 459 

Masked 400 

Patties 459 

Pudding 459 

Rollages 459 

Stewed 458 

With macaroni 460 

With oysters 458, 460 

Witli tomatoes 460 

Cold Meat. 

And bread.. 574 

And potato puffs 457 

Batter 455 

Fried 456 

Pie 456 

Ragout of 457 

Roll 457 

Spiced on toast 460 

Turnovers 457 

With eggs 455 

Coloring for Cakes, 
Etc. 

Blue 370 

Brown 370 

Caramel 122,370 

Green 370 

Parsley , 123 

Pink 370 

Red 370 

Spinach 123 

Compotes 283 

Apple 289 

Apricot 293 

Baked 290 

Bird 336 

Cherry 294 

Damson 293 

Gooseberry 295 

Green-gage 295 

Orange 297 

Peach 293 

Pear 301 

Pear, with eggs 301 

Red 293 

Syrup 283 

White 293 

Confectionery 140 

Consomme 121, 592 



Page. 

Cookies. 

Chocolate 82 

Cream 83 

Eggloss 83 

Fruit..... 83 

Graham 83 

Hickory Nut 83 

North German Christ- 
mas -.83 

Nutmeg 83 

Oven lor 82 

Seed 82, 83 

Scotch 84 

Whortleberry ,.84 

Cordial. 
Curry 190 

Corn. 

Canned 103 

Cut in brine 613 

Chowder 596 

Doiley 606 

Dried 613 

Dried , grated 261 

Dried, new process.. 613 

Fried 606 

Fritters 261 

Hulled 607 

In Brine 613 

Meal 32 

Omelet 606 

Oysters 261 

Pi"e 607 

Steamed 616 

Corn Bread 17 

Steamed 29,31 

Crabs. 

Boiled 576 

To prepare 651 

Crayfish, potted 249 

Cracknels ^ 44 

Cream 44 

Cranberries. 

To keep 641 

Cream Crisps 44 

Cream. 

Chocolate 165 

Coffee 166 

Double 155,344 

Double, true 344 

For whipping 158 

Italian 164 

Measurement of 159 

Of the cream 344 

Raspberry 165 

Rock 165 

Rubv 165 

Single 158 

Tapioca 166 

Tea 166 

To cook 344 

Turret 166 

Cream Biscuits 360 

Custard 360 

Fruit 361,362 

Fruifcases for 360 

Italian 361 

Nut 362 

Paper cases for 360 

Peach 361 

Strawberry 362 

Vanilla 36^ 

Vanilla, with syrup.. 362 

Cream Candy. 

Almond HO 

Chocolate 147 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



679 



Page. 

Cocoa-nut 147,149 

Everton ]'\^ 

Fig ^■", 

French .•••;---Jl2 

Frencli, uncooked. . .147 

Hickory-nut U7 

Lemon 247 

Nut 149 

Ribbon 146 

Vanilla • 148 

Vanilla almond 146 

Walnut 146 

CREAM Tartar. 

Proportion of ^^ 

Crescents °4 

CRULLERS °l 

Fatfor 00 

When to eat -^ 

ROQUETTES ^W 

Tirpad ^^^ 

Chicken.V.V 268,270 

Chicken with brains 

209 

Chicken with sweet- 
breads 269 

Crab •. 20 

Oream ^^'J 

Ham. 269 

Hominy ;'" 

Lobster x'^ 

Meat 271 

Meat, Fresh.... ..,271 

Mutton 269,277 

Oyster 271 

Parsnip ^'^ 

Potato 27Z 

Rice j,'fL 

Rice ball 277 

Salsify ' 2/7 

To bread ;?«' 

To fry 267 

To make f:°^ 

To serve ^°^ 

To shape ^™ 

Triple 269 

Veal 269 

Venison -'' 

With Truffles 269 

Without breading.... 268 

Croutons ■cm 

For Entrees b^"- 

For soup ^Xi 

For vegetables oUi 

Crumpets ^J^ 

Hominy %' 

Royal .^' 

Crusts, to bake 47b 

Cucumbers *'<> 

Cup. i-„ 

Currant 190 

Fruit I9t> 

Currants ^^'l^.^ 

Candied .••■^|2 

Dried.. ^"' Si^ 

Frosted ^03 

Frozen 204 

Spiced oli 

Custard. 

Almond ,v; ,?i 

Boiled ^-l^^'J^Z 

Caramel, boiled ■■■■^^l 

Coffee..... 167 

Corn Meal I'Y 

Cup ■■■ C/ 

Flavor for i Ju 



Page. 

Kettle 156 

Orange 49i 

Proportion for ioo 

Steamer for 159 

To bake 155 

To make 156 

To steam ^5b 

Cutlets, f rillts for 630 

Damsons. 

Canned 101 

Dandelions 607 

Dessert Jellies. 

To make 389 

To mold 389 

To serve 390 

Diamond Top 485 

Doughnuts. 

Buckeye 87 

Dough for 00 

Fatfor 86 

French 87 

Raised ■ "or 

Sugar for 8b 

Dressing. 

Bavarian 566 

Bouillon 566 

Bouillon, jellied 566 

Cream 566 

Eggless 567 

Foam ... 568 

French 567 

Italian 567 

Lactiola ••• 

Mayonnaise 567 

Mayonnaise, green.. 567 

Mayonnaise, red 567 

Minnehaha 568 

Onion 568 

Orange 568 

Orange, jellied 568 

Philadelphia 

Raspberry 568 

Raspberry, jellied.. . . 568 

Rice 538 

Drinks 1'5 

Harvest 190 

Jelly 90 

Lemon ^^x 

Oatmeal 190 

Drops. 

Bergamot if* 

Centennial 144 

Chocolate 144 

Page. 

Cinnamon 144 

Clove -H^ 

Cocoanut 144,149 

Coffee 144 

Damson 144 

Fruit 145 

Ginger 144 

Lemon 144,145,149 

Orange 145 

Orgeat 145 

Peppermint 140 

Strawberry i4o 

Duck, wild. 

Baked^ 323 

Broiled %^^ 

Fried • ^''^ 

Hashed. 823 

Ragout of ■•••32^ 

Roast 323,329 

Stewed ^^' 



Page. 

Dumplings, for Dessert. 

Apple, baked 549 

Apple, boiled 549 

Berry 550 

Cherry 569 

Currant o°" 

Lemon 5&o 

Peach 549 

Raspberry -oou 

Dumplings for meat, etc. 

Buckeye 601 

Marrow 601 

Quick 601 

Suet 601 

Sussex 601 

Swedish 594 

Eclairs. „ 

Charlotte 81 

Chocolate gO 

Coffee 81 

Cream °l 

Duplex 81 

Jelly.. I] 

Strawberry °\ 

Vanilla 81 

Eels. .„, 

To cook "^ 

Egg. „ 

Balls 210 

Charlotte 210 

Charlotte, sweet 210 

Fritters 210 

Pyramids o^V 

Terrace 211 

Vol-au-vent 207 

"C'ppQ ,..•• lyo 

A la Maitre d' Hotel . .210 

Baked 201 

Baked with ham 20. 

Boiled -f^ 

Boiled, to serve 202 

Breaded 20d 

Broiled 203 

Buttered 2Ud 

Creamed 210 

Curried f^^ 

Deviled 204 

Flavorof 198,1^ 

Force-meat ^"* 

French ^"* 

Fricassed ^"* 

Fried 204 

Holland 205 

Italian... ^"» 

Mumbled 20» 

Nugget 205 

Onion 20b 

Pickled 206 

Plover's ^Xc 

Poached fOb 

Quality of -169 

Ringed 207 

Savory ^"^ 

Scalloped^ 207 

Scrambled 20S 

Shirred.^ 209 

Shredded 207 

Spanish 2W 

Stuffed 209 

Time to cook fJ^ 

To mix i»^ 

To test 19» 

With cheese ^" 

With Mush rooms.... 2U 
With Pease ■^n 



680 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

With Syrup 212 

With Tomatoes 212 

With Vinegar :212 

Egg Nog. 

Leraoa 674 

Temperance 212 

Egg Plant. 

Fried 607 

In Cakes 607 

English bread and but- 
ter 138 

Favoritas 149 

Fish. 
Au court-bouillon .... 224 

Augratin 241,288 

Baked 222 

Balls 234 

Balls, dropped 235 

Boiled 223 

Boiled, to serve 225 

Broiled 225 

Broiled, to serve 226 

Cake 235 

Cake, white 235 

Cake, yellow 236 

Canapes 240 

Chowder 236 

Cod 220 

Collared 227 

Croquettes 237 

Crimped 227 

Curried 227 

Deviled 228 

Dressing 237 

Dried 228 

For Invalids 220 

Fresh -....217 

Freshwater 222 

French stew of. 234 

Fricassed 228 

Fricassee of Cod 229 

Fried 229 

Fritters 238 

Garnishes for. . ..220, 631 

In jelly 241 

In season 217 

Knife and fork 256 

Marinade 224 

Pan, fried 247 

Patties 239 

Pickled 230 

Pies 238 

Potted 231 

Pudding 238 

Rissoles 239 

Salad 239 

Saltwater 222 

Salted 232 

Sandwiches 240 

Sauces for 632 

Scalloped 232 

Souffle 240 

Soup 240 

Steamed 233 

Stewed 233 

Straws 241 

Toast 241 

To bake 219 

To boil 219 

To bone 219 

To broil 219 

To clean 218 

To cook 219,221 

To fry 219 

To iresheu 218 



Page. 

To marinade 225 

To shape 219 

To steam 219 

To serve 220, 221 

To use cold 218 

To wash 218 

Trivet for 222 

Turbans 241 

Utensils 221 

Water for 223 

With cheese. 241 

With olives 242 

With rice 242 

White, baked 256 

White, boiled 243 

Flavor. 

Apple 388 

Apricot 388 

Cherry 388 

Currant 388 

Grape 388 

Nectarine 388 

Orange 388 

Plum 388 

Raspberry 388 

Strawberry 388 

Float. 

Orange 169 

Peach 291 

Pear 299 

Quince 299 

Flour 7, 8, 31 

Always sift 82 

Browned 448 

Fondant 146 

Force-Meat 445 

Balls.... 446 

Chicken 446 

Fish 446 

Oyster 445 

Sage and onion 446 

Suet ,....445 

Sweet-bread 446 

Veal 445 

Fritters 257 

Apple 259 

Apricot 260 

Bananas 260 

Batter for 2.57 

Berry 260 

Brain 260 

Cake 260 

Celery 260 

Clam 261 

Cracker dust in 257 

Corn 261 

Corn, dried 261 

Corn meal 261 

Cream 261 

Currant 262 

Doily 262 

Fat for 258 

Fruit 258 

Grape 262 

Hominy 262 

Italian 262 

Lemon 262 

Lobster 262 

Mincemeat 263 

Nutmeg , 263 

Orange 260,263 

Oyster 263 

Parsnip 263 

Peach 263 

Pine-apple 264 



Pork 264 

Potato 264 

Queen 264 

Rice 264 

Rye , 262 

Sandwich 265 

Size of .259 

Snow 265 

Sugar in 257 

To drain 258 

To keep hot 259 

To serve 259 

Walnut 265 

Frogs. 446 

Au court bouillon 447 

Fricasseed 446 

Fried 446 

SafWles 446 

Salad 446 

Fromage 139 

Fruit 278,641 

Albuminous 281 

A necessity 281 

Arrangement of 28] 

Balls 306 

Candied 310 

Cases 365 

Center Piece 281, 282 

Charlotte 549 

Closet 94,511 

Creams 283 

Dried 309 

Evaporator 310 

Florida grape 296 

Frosted 303 

Frozen 283, 304 

Gathering 641 

Glazed 305 

Iced 305 

In jelly 306 

Juices 307, 

Knife 284 

Macedoine of.... 305, 306 

Motto 278 

Pastes 311 

Salad : 309 

Shelves 640 

Toast 307 

To bake 283 

To dry 310 

To mold 283 

To preserve 641 

To serve 284 

Game. 

Broiling 309 

Dark-meated 318 

Garnishes for 634 

Hashed 322 

Larding 321 

Potted 336 

Puree of 336 

Sauces for 632 

Serving 323 

To dress 819 

To fry 321 

To keep 318,319 

To pick 319 

To preserve 1024 

To roast 320 

To singe 319 

To steam 321 

To wash 319 

Wild flavor of 331 

White-meated 318 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



681 



Page. 

Garnishes 636 

Fan 631 

Fancy 631 

For Blanc Mange. . . .632 

For creams 626 

For Fish 627 

For Game 628 632 

For Meats 627 

For Poultry 628" 

For Prairie Chicken. 632 

For Salads 629 

For Vegetables 629 

Leaves for 282 

Potato 631 

Of Butter 621 

Of root flowers 631 

Sorrel 630 

Gelatine 159 

Gems. 

Corn 37 

Graham 37 

Oatmeal 37 

Sweet Milk 37 

Wheaten 37 

Ginger-Bread 88, 203 

. Fairy 88 

Loaf 88 

Spiced 89 

Sponge 89 

To make 88 

White 89 

Glaze 449 

Brush 450 

Kettle.. 450 

Roll... 33 

Golden Buck 138 

Good CooiiiNG 454 

Goose. ' 

Larded wild 326 

Roast wild 324 

Goosebekry 280 

Canned 98 

Dried 315 

Fool 295 

Trifle 296 

Graham Bread.... 8, 17, 29 

Quick 29 

Steamed 29 

With soda 29 

Grapes 296,638 

Candied 312 

Canned 99,101 

Frosted 303 

Frozen 305 

Jellied 296 

Kinds of 638,639 

Greengages, dried — 315 

GRAVY 447 

Brown 451 

Brown, cheap 451 

Brown, rich 451 

Economical 451 

Economy of 451 

Fruit 541 

Giblet 452 

Horse-radish 452 

Maitre d'hotel 452 

Orange 4-52 

Piquant : 452 

Sage 453 

Seasoning for 454 

Sour cream 329 

To make . . . .447, 448 

Veal 453 

Venison 453 



Without Meat 451 

Griddle Cakes. 

Batter 339 

Batter, raised 339 

Bread, raised 339 

Buckwheat 340 

Cerealine 340 

Clam 340 

Corn 339,341,343 

Eggs for 338 

Fariua 341 

Flannel 341 

French, plain.... . 141 

Gluten 341 

Graham 341 

Green corn 342 

Hominy 342 

Lifter for 339 

Milk for ,339 

Oatmeal 342 

Potato , 342 

Potato, grated 342 

Powders for 339 

Rice 342, 343 

Rye 342 

Squash 343 

Tomato....- 339 

To turn 338 

Griddle. 

Soapstone 338 

Stone 338 

To care for 338 

Togreese 338 

Grouse. 

Fried 333 

Pie 326 

Salad 826 

Guava 279 

Haddock. 

Boiled 245 

Creamed 245 

Halibut. 

Baked 245 

Creoled 245 

Ham 

Baked 432 

Boiled 433 

Boned 433 

Broiled 433 

Fried with eggs 434 

Frizzled 434 

Garnished ,.433, 630 

Pie 462 

Potted 434 

Puffs 435 

Relish 462 

Scalloped 462 

Soup 462 

Stufled 433 

To Garnish 579 

With jelly 462 

With vinegar 462 

Hare, roast 327 

Hash 454 

American 454 

Baked 453 

Boston 458 

English 454 

Fried 459 

Head. 

Baked 440 

Calls' 440 

Cheese 441 

Cheese, spiced 442 

Croquettes 442 



Page. 
Croquettes, spiced.. .442 

Fritters 442 

Pie 442 

Scalloped 441 

Stuffed 441 

Heart. 

Baked 415 

Hen's Nest 212 

Herbs, sweet 455 

Herring. 

Baked 246 

Baked, salt 246 

Pudding 246 

Salted 232 

Hickory-nuts 309 

Hidden Mountain 169 

Hominy 607 

Boiled 607 

Coarse 469 

Fine 469 

Fried 469 

Horse-Radish. 

For winter 116 

H ucklebekries 280 

Apple 368 

Apricot 368 

Citron 368 

Cherry 368 

Chocolate 371 

Currant 368 

Gooseberry 369 

Grape 369 

Lemon 369 

Nectarine 368 

Orange 369 

Orange, gopher 371 

Peach 368,369 

Peaches and cream. .369 

Pear 368 

Pine-apple 370 

Plum 368 

Raspberry 369 

Suow 370 

Strawberry 869,370 

TuttiFrutti 370 

Water-melon 368 

Ices 366 

Canned fruit for 368 

Garnish for 367 

Increase of 367 

Juice for 366 

Meringue for . . . .366, 371 

Pulp for 366 

Syrup for 371 

To mold 367 

To serve 867 

Ice-crea.m. 

Almond 436, 352, 355 

Almond caramel 352 

Apple 350,359 

Apricot 358 

Arrowroot 352 

Banana 359 

Best with fruit 347 

Boston. 352 

Brine Blanket for .. .348 

Buttermilk 352 

Cabinet 359 

Cake for 350 

Cave for 350 

Caramel 353,355 

Cherry 358 

Chestnut 353 

Chocolate 353 



682 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 
Chocolate caramel. ..353 
Chocolate custard. . .354 

Chocolate fruit 353 

Chocolate moss 354 

Chocolate, spiced 353 

Cocoauut 353, 546 

Coffee 354 

Coffee, whipped 354 

Coflee, white 354 

Custard 354 

Custard kettle for 351 

Eggless 347,355 

Eggs for 347 

Fancy 353 

Filbert 355 

Fig 355 

Flavor for '..344,352 

Freezer 387 

Freezer, care of S51 

Fruit , .346 

Fruit for 846,352,351 

Fruit flavors for 346 

Gelatine 356 

Ginger 356 

Harlequin 356 

Hickory-nut 356 

Italian 356 

Italian custard 357 

Jam 356 

Jam for 351 

Kentucky 356 

Lacteauola 345, 351 

Lemon 357 

Macaroon 357 

Macaroon caramel.. .357 

Molds for 349 

Neapolitan 344, 351 

New York 351 

Nut 352 

Orange , 358 

Peach 358,359 

Pine-apple 359 

Pistachio 352 

Philadelphia,344, 347, 351 

Proportions, for 347 

Raspberry 358 

Riced orange 358 

Saratoga 359 

Strawberry 358 

Substitutes in 351 

Sugar for 344,347 

Surprise 360 

Tea 354,360 

To freeze 347,349 

To make 345,348 

To mold 349 

To serve 349 

Triple 357 

TuttiFrutti 360 

Utensils for 347, 351, 625 

Vanilla 360 

Vanilla custard 360 

With eggs 345 

Without egg 345 

Whipped 357 

Whipped cream for.. 
344,350 

Icicles 150 

Almond 150 

Creamed 150 

Icing. 
Almond 374 

X Beating 372 

■• Boiled 374 

Boiled, eggless 375 



Page. 

Boiled, chocolate 375 

Cape May 375 

Clear 376 

Chocolate 375 

Chocolate caramel.. .375 

Chocolate cream 375 

Chocolate, spiced... 375 

Confectioners 376 

Duplex 377 

French 376 

Gelatine 376 

Glaze 376 

Lemon 377 

Orange 377 

Quick 377 

Soft 377 

Snow 377 

To apply 373 

To make 373 

Tran sparent 377 

Tutti Frutti 377 

Island. 

Cocoanut 168 

Floating 168 

Jam 378 

Apple 379 

Apricot 379 

Berries for 379 

Berry , 381 

Blackberry ,....380 

Carrot 380 

Cherry 380 

Currant 380 

Damson , 380 

French 380 

Gooseberry 381 

Gooseberry with cur- 
rant juice 381 

Grape 381 

Greengage 381 

Making 378 

Paddle for 378 

Pie-plant 381 

Pie-plant and orange 382 

Pine-apple 382 

Plum 382 

Quince 382 

Raspberry 382 

Strawberry 383 

To keep 379 

Jelly. 

Apple 385 390 

Apricot 386 

Aspic 539 

Bag 384 

Blackberry 387 

Cherry 386 

Chocolate 390 

Cider 390 

Corn-starch 390 

Currant 386 

Currant, uncooked. . .387 

Fruit 383.390 

Gooseberry 387 

Grape 387 

Grape, wild 387 

Lemon 390 

Lemon snow 391 

Muscadine 387 

Orange 391 

Peach 391 

Pie plant 392 

Pigs foot 392 

Pine apisle 388, 893 

Raspberry 388 



Ribbon 392 

Sandwiches 394 

Strainer 387 

Strawberry 388, 389 

Tapioca 392 

Tomato 388 

To make 283, 285 

To cover 384 

To test 384 

Whipped 393 

With fruit 393 

Johnny-cake 38 

Alabama 38 

Jumbles. 

Cocoa-nut 84 

Lemon 84 

To finish 80 

Kidneys. 
Stewed 417 

Kisses. 151 

Knitted Cover 548 

Kringles 46 

Lady Fingers 77 

Lamb. 

Braised 419 

Boiled 423 

Carbonade of 420 

Fried 460 

Grilled 419 

Roast 420 

Shoulders of 419 

Stewed 421 

With Asparagus 421 

With Pease 421 

With Tomatoes 421 

Lemon 279, 639 

Best 639 

Frappee 191 

Peel, candied 312 

Lemonade 190 

Effervescing , 192 

Egg 192 

Everyday 191 

Hot 192 

Milk 192 

Picnic ,192 

Pocket 193 

Sparkling 191 

Tutti Frutti 191 

Lettuce Salad 670 

Puree of 670 

Liver. 

And Bacon 416 

Fried 416 

Minced 416 

Lobster. 

Boiled 576 

Broiled 577 

Croquettes 578 

Deviled 577 

Roasted 578 

Salad 671 

Scalloped 577 

To dress 651 

Macaroni. 
Triple 608 

Macaroons. 

Almond 148.151 

Chocolate, ....... 151, 145 

Cocoanut. . 148 

Hickory-nut 157 

Lemon 148, 151 

Pecan 151 

Pyramid of 151 

Snow 148 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



683 



Page. 

Swiss 148 

Vanilla 148 

Mackerel. 

Baked 246 

Baked salt 246 

Boiled 246 

Boiled salt 246 

Broiled 247 

Pickled 247 

Mallowrines 150 

Mangoes. 

Hawkeye 509 

Horse-radish for 509 

Marmalade. 

Apple 546 

Fig 546 

Orange 546 

Marsh Mallow 152 

Mead 193 

Meat. 

Batter 455 

Boiled 397 

Braising 397 

Broiled 399 

Carving 397 

Cold 453 

Court Bouillion 398 

Fried 400, 456 

Garnishes for 

Glazing 397 

Jellied 398 

Larding 400 

Marinade 398 

Molded 401 

Pie 456 

Pot roasts 404 

Potted..... 402 

Roasted ,.402 

Roll ..457 

Sauces for 632 

Steamed 405 

Stewed 405 

To cook.... 396 

To Garnish 397 

To keep 395 

To restore 395 

To serve 397 

Tough 396 

When tender 395 

Melons 280, 308 

Nutmeg 280,308 

Japan 280,308 

Water 280.308 

Meringue 151 

For Pies 476 

Glazed 363 

Marbled 349 

Oven for 142 

Peach 

Pieplant 

Mince meat 490 

Appleless 489 

Dried apples for — 491 

Fragment 402 

Holiday 490 

Lemon 489 

Measured 490 

Proportion of 491 

Suggestions for 491 

Muffins. 

Corn 38 

Cream 38 

Graham 38 

Indian '..38 

Rice 38 



Page. 

Mock. 
Crab 139 

Moonshine 168 

Mullet, baked 247 

Mush. 

Baked 467 

Cerealine 467 

Cerealine, fried 467 

Corn meal 465, 467 

Custard kettle for 465,466 

Farina 468 

Fried 466,468 

Gluten 468 

Graham 468 

Graham, molded 463 

Granula 468 

Philadelphia 467 

Round cans for. .466, 468 

Rye 468 

Thickness of 466 

To make 465 

To stir 465,466 

Water for 465 

Mushrooms. 

Baked 471 

Broiled 471 

Brown 474 

Curried 472 

Catsup ... .473 

Catsup, double 473 

Fried 472 

Pickled 472 

Sauce 473 

To prepare 470 

Totest 470 

With eyes 474 

With drawn butter. .474 
White 473 

Mustard. 

For table 109 

French 123 

Indian 123 

Prepared 123 

Tartar 123 

Mutton. 
Au court bouillon.. .427 

Balls 461 

Boiled 423 

Boned 423 

Braised 419 

Chops 426 

Chops, masked 426 

Curried 424 

Cutlets, cold 426 

Leg of 423, 424 

Masked 460 

Molded 401 

Ragout of ... 461 

Relish 461 

Rissoles 461 

Roast 424 

Rolled 424 

Scalloped 461 

Shoulder of 423 

Stewed 422,425 

Nectar. 

Blackberry 193 

Cherry 193 

Cream 193 

Grape 193 

Welsh 194 

Nectarines 281 

Frozen 305 

Nougat, white 153 

Nuts, arrangement of 310 



Page. 
Ginger 89 

Oatmeal. 

Fried 469 

Tellied 469 

Molded . . 469 

New York 469 

Steamed 469 

Okra. 

Olives 510 

Stuffed 411 

Omelet 199 

Baked 214 

Bread 213 

Cheese 213,215 

Chicken 215 

Chocolate 216 

Corn 213 

Cream 213 

Fish 213 

Flabby 200 

French 213 

Fruit 216 

Lemon .214 

Meat .201,213 

Milk 214 

Mixed 213 

Mushroom 214 

Olive 214 

Orange 214 

Oyster 214 

Pan 200 

Plain 214 

Potato 215 

Puff 215 

Savory 213 

Size of 201 

Sweet baked 216 

Sweet fried 216 

To bake 200 

To make 200 

Vegetable 201,216 

Water 216 

With Parsley 201 

Onions. 

Baked 608 

Browned 449 

Creamed 608 

Stuffed 608 

Omelet 608 

Orange. 

Citron 313 

Compote 297 

Peel, candied .313 

Snow 298 

Oranges 279,297 

Best 639 

Frosted 303 

Frozen 305 

Glazed 305 

To buy 639 

Oven. 
Moderate 27 

Oyster. 

And chicken pie 584 

Cream Toast 585 

Fritters 582 

Fritter Patties 583 

Pie ...583 

Powder 583 

Roll 584 

Sandwiches 585 

Soup 597 

Stew 584 

Stew, with celery 584 

Toast - 584 



6S4 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 
Vol-aii-vents.. .. -583, 5S5 

Oysters. 

And Macaroni 585 

BeBt time for 576 

Broiled 478 

Creamed 578 

P'ricasseed 579 

Fried 578 

Fried, Gopher 578 

Fried, Italian 579 

Fried, Manhattan 579 

Fried, Philadelphia. 578 

Fried, to serve 579 

Hidden 580 

la shell 575,580,585 

In scallops 582 

Panned 580 

Pickled 580 

Raw , 580 

Raw, to s.^rve 580 

Scalloped . . 582 

Skewered ...582 

Stuflfed 582 

Truffled 582 

Toopen 576 

To prepare 575 

To serve 576, 579 

Varieties of 576 

Vegetable 

Ox-eyes 212 

Pan. 

Lady Fingers 77 

Stem, substitute for. .59 

Paper Frills 630 

Parsnips. 

Cake 607,608 

Fried 608 

Partridge, 

Hashed 327 

Pie 328 

Salad 326 

Salmi of 330 

Stewed ....229 

Roast 328,324.220 

Parsley. 
Fried 124 

Paste. 

Batter 478 

Bean 479 

Corn meal ..478 

Cream 477 

Economical 477 

Florida 478 

Graham 477 

Hygienic 476 

Nantucket 478 

Oatmeal 478 

Plain 478 

Potato... 479 

Puff 479 

Puff, French 481 

Puff, good 479 

Puff, medium 483 

Puff, rich 488 

Quaker 477 

Suggestions for puff. 481 

Sweet 483 

To handle 482 

To make 482 

To turn 482 

With boiled milk.... 483 

Pastry 475 

B\itter for 475 

Cutti,ng 475 

Egging 481 



Page. 

Frosting 483 

Glaze 483 

Ramakins 136 

Rolling 481 

Wheel . 483 

Peaches 281, 290 

And cream 239 

Best G39 

Candied 313 

Canned 99, 100 

Canned, cold 100 

Dried 815 

Frosted 315 

Frozen 298 

In marmalade 299 

To buy 639 

Vegetable ...281 

Peach. 

Float 290 

Paste 317 

Sauce 316 

Tapioca.. 299 

Pears 281,299,639 

Best 639 

Baked 300 

Canned 100, 102 

Compote 301 

Jellied 300 

Float 290 

Frosted 304 

Stewed 300 

Pease 608 

Pepper-nuts 84 

Pepper-pot 612 

Pheasant. 

Cutlets ,.,,,, ,...328 

Pot roast . 329 

Roast 328 

Pickled. 

Apples 503 

Beans 503 

Beets 503 

Cabbage 503 

Cauliflower 503 

Cherries 504 

Eggs 504 

Grapes 504 

Onions 503,504 

Ouions, Spanish 505 

Peaches 505 

Plums 505 

Sweet corn 506 

Walnuts 504 

Pickles 501 

Alum for 501 

Bottles for ... 501 

Cans for 501 

Chopped 506 

Chowchow, Buckeye 

509 

Cucumber 506, 653 

Cucumber, sliced 507 

Hanover 508 

Higdon 507 

In brine 501,652 

Martynia 507 

Mixed 507 

Oil-cloth cover for.. .502 

Picallilli 509 

Self-made 506 

Spicing for 502 

To keep 501 

Tomato, green 508 

Universal 508 

Vinegar for. 502, 507, 512 



West India 508 

Pickles, Sweet 510 

Apple 512 

Blackberry, 512 

Crabapple, 512 

Figs 512 

Peach 512,513 

Pear 512.513 

Ripe Cucumber 512 

Sugar for 510 

Syrup for 610 

Syrup, single 510 

Syrup, double 510 

To can 611 

To make 662,511 

Tomato sliced 513 

Pie. 

Apple-custard 484 

Apple-butter 484 

Apple, dried 483 

Apple, grated 484 

Apple, halved 484 

J^pple, lemon 484 

Apple, sweet 484 

Banana ....484 

Berry 485,493 

Berry, canned 485 

Berry, dried 485 

California 492 

Carrot 485 

Cottage 484 

Cranberry 487, 618 

Creamless .. 486 

Cream, whipped 486 

Currant 493 

Currant; green 486 

Currant, ripe 486 

Custard 487 

Custard, chocolate ..487 

Custard, Jelly 481 

Custard, raspberry ..487 

Diamond Top for 485 

Dried apple 484 

Dried-currant 487 

Dried Pumpkiu 494 

Flavoring for 485 

Fruit, deep 487 

Fruit, shallow 488 

Gooseberry 488 

Hickory-nut 488 

Lemon 488 

Lemon, chopped. .. 489 
Lemon, economical. 488 

Lemon, eggless 489 

Lemon, sliced 489 

Lemon, with fruit .489 

Meringue for 476 

Mince-meat for 490 

Molasses 492 

Orange 492 

Orange, sliced 492 

Pans for . 604,619 

Peach 493 

Pie-plant 493 

Prune 493 

Prune, custard 493 

Pumpkin 493 

Pumpkin, eggless .. .494 

Raisin 494 

Raspberry "185 

Rice 495 

Squash 494 

Sweet apple 484 

Pie. 
Game 326 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



685 



Page. 

Lamb 536 

Meat 456 

Panned 5^" 

Rice 608 

Ygal 438 

Veal and ham 438 

Veal and Oyster 438 

Western 337 

Pie-plant. 

Baked 301 

Canned 101 

Stewed 301 

Pickerel, baked 248 

Pig's Feet 430 

Pig's Head. 

Cheese 430 

Pigeon. 

Pie 328 

Pike, a la Godard 248 

Pine-apple ..279,283,302 

Canned 101 

Dried 316 

Frozen 304 

To keep 302 

Pinch of sugar 454 

Pippins, Jellied 285 

plaintains 279 

Plums 302 

Canned 101 

Dried 316 

Frozen 30o 

Gathering 642 

Paste 317 

Pork. 

And beans 430 

Cake 460 

Chops 429 

Cutlets 461 

Pudding 429 

Roast.. 427 

Roast loin of 427 

Roast leg of 427 

Spare-rib 428 

Tenderloin 427. 429 

pot-au-feu 406,841 

potato-pot 415 

Pork, Salt. 

Broiled 431 

Fried 431 

InBatter ,....431 

Rashers of 630 

Scraps 431 

With apples 4S1 

Potato :--^l\ 

A la Maitre d'Hotel..523 

A la Parisienne 524 

Baked 517 

Baked, quick 517 

Balls 524 

Biscuit 524 

Blanc mange 687 

Boiled 518, 519 

Broiled 520 

Border 630 

Browned 520 

Castle 522 

Croquettes oii 

Dashed 519 

Doily 519 

Flour 516 

For garnishing • • • 

Fried, French 520 

Fried, grated 520 

Fritters 525 

Glazed 518 



Page. 

Hoosier 520 

Larded .518 

Mashed 621 

Mashed, brown 521 

New 520 

Omelet 525 

Pancakes 52o 

Patties 630 

Pie 525 

Pot 415 

Puflfs 526 

Puree of 521 

Rice 526 

Roasted 517 

Salad 572 

Sandwitches 524 

Sauced 523 

Saratoga .-522 

Slaw o26 

Stewed 523 

Stuffed 523 

Snow 526 

Sweet 517 

Time for »17 

To pare 515 

Toserve 515 

To steam 515 

Triangle 512 

Walnut House 523 

Waterless 519 

Whip .526 

With meat. . .517, 524, 526 

With sauce 518 

Without jackets 519 

Potato, Sweet 

Baked 526 

Biscuits 527 

Boiled.. : -527 

Browned 527 

Carolina 527 

Fried 527 

Glazed 527 

Mashed 527 

Perfection 527 

Roasted 527 

Steamed 527 

Texas 527 

With meat 526 

Poultry 528 

As food 528 

Frozen 530 

Saucesfor 632 

To bard 529 

To boil 529 

To lard.... 529 

To roast 529,530 

To stew 529 

To stuff 528 

To truss 528 

Saucesfor, 632 

Powder. 

Curry 124 

Oyster 583 

Prairie Chicken. 

Pot-roast of 329 

Roast 327,328 

Salmi of 330 

Steamed 330 

Stewed 330 

PRESERVES. 

Apple 543 

Blackberry 543 

Blueberry 543 

Citron 543 

Crab-apple 543 



Page. 

Cranberry 643 

Currant 543 

Peach 544 

Pie-plant 544 

Plum ^44 

Rule for 542 

Transcendents 544 

Water-melon 545 

Prunes 316 

Browned 316 

Pudding. ,,„ 

Almond .. - 550 

Apple 551 

Apple-custard 484 

Apple charlotte 551 

Apple, Swedish 551 

Batter • • • 552 

Batter,' steamed oo2 

Blueberry ■•^?l 

Bread 552 

Cabinet 553 

Cherry '••••v.vS^I 

Chocolate 554,748 

Chocolate.with fruit. 554 

Citron 554 

Currant 551 

Danish 552 

Dixie 554 

Easter 554 

Easter, with fruit. . . .555 
Frozen with gelatine.363 

Fruit 553, 555 

Graham 556 

Indian 556 

Indian, boiled 556 

Indian, fruit 556 

Layer 553 

Lemon 5&b 

Minnehaha 561 

Nesselrode 364 

Orange 556 

Paris 557 

Peach, dried 555 

Pie-plant 557 

Plain 553 

Plum, English 557 

Rice 559 

Sago.... 559 

Sauces for 5oi 

Snow 559 

Suet 559 

Swiss 5bi) 

Tapioca 560 

Tapioca, eggless 560 

Water bath for 548 

PUFFS. 

Boston Cream oo 

Nuns 39 

New York Cream 80 

Quail. 

Fricassee "gJ- 

Fried.... 330 

On Toast °^^ 

Pot-roast 329 

Roast.. 330 

Steamed 3rfi 

Quince. ,_ 

Baked ^02 

Canned 101 

Compote '••••^?? 

Float. 299 

Steamed 'i^^ 

Rabbit. 
Fried 332 



^86 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Ragamuffins 139 

Raisins 311 

Raising PowDKE. 
Proportion of 15 

Rakebit. 

Scotch 157 

Welch 137 

Yorkshire 138 

Raspberries. 
Dried 314 

Red Snappee. 

Boiled ■ 249 

Fried 249 

Rice. 
Pie 608 

RiCOLLETTES 499 

Roasts. 
Pot i-'ise 

Warmed over 45o 

Washing on 337 

ROH 

C rouquettes 2.i0 

Fried 249 

Roly-poly. 

Apple 560 

Cherry 5bl 

Dixie 560 

Fig .501 

Lemon 561 

Orange 560 

Peach 500 

Rolls. 

Hamburg 413 

Meat 457 

Veal -150 

Egg '^^ 

E very-day 39 

French 39 

Finger 39 

Graham 41 

Italian 41 

Oatmeal 41 

Parker house 41 

Ring 41 

Snow-flake 41 

Victoria 42 

Twist ••••42 

Vien-na 41, 42 

Roux. V. 

Brown 4.^0^ 

White 4.50 

Rusks. 

Baking Powder 43 

Fancy 43 

Lebanon 43 

Marble-head 43 

Salad. 

Alligator Pear 301 

Anchovy 508 

Apple 508 

Apple and celery — 508 

Bean 509 

Cabbage 509 

Chicken .....569 

Chicken Mayonnaise5G9 

Corn-salad 571 

Currant 571 

Florida 572 

Fruit 300, 500, 572 

Fruitfor 639 

Garnishes 

Gelinola 509 

Inexpensive 503 

Jelley-border for 574 



Page. 

Lettuce 570 

Lobster 571 

Lobster .canned 572 

Mixing 564 

Nasturtium 572 

Orange 572 

Oyster 572 

Peach 572 

Potato 572 

Raspberry 572 

Salmon 239, 573 

Salmon, canned 573 

Sardiue 566,573 

Serving 565 

Shells 565 

Shrimp 574 

Strawberry 572 

Tomato 574 

To prepare 563 

Variety of 563 

Vegetables for.. .639, 640 

Salad, gelinola. 

With fish 569 

With fruit 570 

With game 570 

With lobster 570 

With meat 570 

With oysters 570 

With poultry 570 

With vegetables 570 

Sally Lunn 43 

Salmon 

Baked 247,250 

Boiled 251 

Canned 252 

Croquettes 250 

Crimped 252 

Cutlets, broiled 252 

Escaloped ,...252 

Fritters 251 

Steaks, fried 252 

Stewed 253 

Salsify. 

Cake 007 

Fritters 009 

Soup 609 

Salt, spiced 124 

Sandwiches. 

Chicken 403 

Ham 403 

Jelly 394 

Lunch 404 

Mixed 464 

Preserve , 499 

Reception 404 

Sardines. 

American 253 

Fried 253 

How made 253 

Salad 500,573 

Sauces for Meats 032 

Almond HI 

Anchovy Ill 

Apple Ill 

Asparagus Ill 

Bain marie for 107 

Bechamel 122 

Bread 112 

Brown 100, 122 

Caper 112 

Celery, 113 

Celery seed for 108 

Chestnut 113 

Crab 113 

Cauliflower 114 



Page. 

Currant 113 

Currant-Jelly 114 

Curry 114 

Custard kettle for. ..114 

Drawn-butter 114 

Egg 115 

Gooseberry 115 

Hollandaise ,115 

Horse-radish 115, 405 

Indian Chutney 116 

Italian 116 

Leamington 116 

Lemon 114,116 

Liver and lemon 117 

Liver and parsley.. .117 

Lobster 117 

Lobster, economical.118 

Magical 537 

Mayonaise 118 

Mayonaise,fish 118 

Mephistophelian 712 

Mint 118 

Mustard 408 

Olive 118 

Onion 119 

Orange 119,337 

Oyster 119 

Ovster.brown 120 

Parsley 120 

Pickle 114,494 

Piquant 452 

Rice 538 

Robert 429 

Shrimp 120 

Tartare 120 

Thickening for 107 

Tomato 120 

Tomato, French 121 

To prepare 106 

White 121 

White, French 121 

Sauces foe puddings. 

Apricot 561 

Caramel 571 

Currant 561 

Currant dried 561 

Custard 561 

Dip 768 

Egg 562 

Foaming 562 

Golden 562 

Lactiola 562 

Lemon 562 

Marigold 562 

Orange 562 

Peach 561 

Queen 562 

Raspberry 561 

Sago 562 

Saratoga 562 

Strawberry 561 

To make 548 

Vanilla 5^il 

Wolverine 549 

Sausage 435 

And Apple 435 

Breaded 4.35 

Mutton 436 

Oysters 436 

Veal 436 

Savoys 788 

Seedlings. 

Currant 85 

Spice 85 

Scallops 586 



IND'EX TO COOKERY EECIPES. 



687 



Page. 
Baked 586 

scallopade 139 

Scones 43 

Shells. 

Folded 496 

Layer 495 

Patty 495 

Pyramid 495 

Tart 495 

Vol-au-vent 496 

Shell-fish 575 

Sheeps-head, baked. 254 

Sherbet, Crystal 362 

Lemon 194 

Milk 194 

Orange i94 

Pine-apple 194 

Raspberry 195 

Strawberry 195 

Short-cake. 

Apple 500 

Peach 499 

Raspberry 499 

Royal 500 

Strawberry 499, 500 

Shrimps. 

Curried 586 

Pie 586 

Shrub. 

Blackberry 195 

Currant 195 

Gooseberry 195 

Raspberry 195 

Strawberry 195 

Slaw. 

Cream 796 

Cream, whipped 574 

Smelts, baked 254 

Snaps. ' 

Ginger 89 

'Lemon 84 

Snipe. 

Fried 336 

Roast 336 

Soda, Effervescing. . 196 
Foam 190 

Soles, fried 255 

Souffles 170 

Almond 550 

Apple 171 

Baked 124 

Cheese 171 

Chestnut 171 

Chicken 171 

Chocolate 172 

Chocolate, cold 172 

Cream 172 

Dish 171,581 

Jelly 173 

Lemon 173 

Macaroni 173 

Omelette, fruit 173 

Orange 174 

Potato 174 

Soup. 

Almond 592 

Amber 593 

Apple 593 

Apricot 597 

Asparagus 593 

Baked 842 

Balls for 599 

Barley 593 

Basis for 587 

Bayleaf for 588 



Page. 

Blackberry 597 

Bouillon 594 

Cauliflower 595 

Celery 595 

Cherry 599 

Chestnut 832 

Chicken 595 

Clarifying 592 

Clear 582,592 

Cocoanut 591 

Corn 595 

Corn, meatless 596 

Cream 596 

Cream of Barley 593 

Cream of Be(<ts 596 

Cream of Salmon 596 

Cream of Spinach.... 576 

Croutons for 849 

Cucumber 596 

Division of 588 

Eggs for 589 

Flemish 590 

Fruit 588,507 

Necessity of 587 

Onion 598 

Oyster 598 

Oyster, mock 598 

Parsnip 839 

Pea 598 

Pea, with carrots 598 

Pea, with onions 598 

Pea, with spinach.. .598 

Poached eggs for 589 

Raspberry 597 

Salsify 609 

Seasoning 588 

Strawberry 597 

Stock 589 

Thick 587 

Tomato 599 

Tomato with rice 599 

Triple 597 

Variety of 588 

Vegetable 599 

SOUP-STOCK 589 

Brown 122 

Complex 591 

Economical 591 

Fish 591 

Jelly 589 

Liquid 590 

Medium 592 

Plain 589 

Rich 592 

White 121,591,592 

Spiced 

Cherries 513 

Currants .513 

Plums 513 

Peaches 513 

Pears 513 

Tomatoes 513 

Sponge. 

Lemon 163 

Orange 163 

Pine-apple 164 

Peach 164 

Pear ^64 

Springerlie 85 

Squash. 

Baked 609 

Cakes 609 

Fried 609 

Patties 609 

Summer 609 



Page. 
Winter 009 

Squirrels. 
Stewed 333 

Steak. 

Mutton 414 

Oyster 414 

Pork 414 

Veal 414 

Stews. 

Arabian 409 

Bean 611 

Cabbage 611 

Irish 425,458 

Pea 611 

Powder 409 

Spanish 337 

Straws, Parisian 88 

Strawberries 279, 333 

Frozen 304, 305 

Sturgeon, baked 255 

Steaks 255 

Succotash 610 

Sugar 

Caramel 141 

Crackling 141 

Feathered 141 

Pinch of 454 

Spun 141 

Threads 141,154 

To clarify 140 

Sugarines 85 

Almond 85 

Sweet-breads 442 

Baked 442 

Blanching 

Broiled 443 

Croquettes 444 

Fricassed 443 

Fried 444 

Fritters . . 444 

Sandwiches 444 

Skewered 444 

Stewed 549 

Vol-au- vents 445 

With orange juice. . .443 
With pease. . . 443 

Sykup. 

Lemon 196 

Orange 196 

Table. 

Of measure 621 

Of weight 622 

Steamed grain 467 

Tarts. 

Chocolate 496 

Currant 497 

Lemon 496 

Orange 496 

Prune 497 

Raisin 497 

Raspberry 497 

Taffy. 

Everton 153 

Hickory-nut 154 

Tea. 

Au lait 189 

Best 181 

Cannister 184 

Cozv 181 

Float 182 

For forty 189 

Iced 187, 188 

Making 180 

Mixtures 183 

Russian 189 



688 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



Page. 

Stand 182 

Varieties of 182 

When to drink 

Teal. 

Fried 833 

Roast 333 

Tisane. 

Date 196 

Fig 196 

Prune 196 

Toast. 

Anchovy 50 

Asparagus 51 

Breakfast 51 

Buttered 51 

Cheese and egg 51 

Chicken 51 

Codfish 51 

Cream 51 

Dry 52, 53 

Egg 52 

Excellent 52 

French 52 

Lemon 52 

Marrow-bone 53 

Meuuouite 52 

Oyster 52, 53 

Rock 53 

Ramakina 137 

Salmon 53 

Sausage 63 

Tomato 63 

Tongue 53 

Water 53 

rOMATOES. 

Baked 610 

Boiled 610 

Braised 610 

Canned 104 

Fried 610 

Stuffed 610 

With eggs 610 

With onions 610 

With rice 610 

Tongue. 

Boiled 417 

Fried 418 

In Jelly 418 

Lamb's 418 

Pickled 418 

Turkey. 

Boiled 5.38 

Boned .539 

Croquettes 541 

Galaitnne. 540 

Jellied 719 

Larded 540 

Pie 541 

Ready for plumping 

Roast 540 



Page. 

Scalloped 541 

Soup ..541 

Stewed 541 

To bone 

To cut up 

Tkifi.ks 44 

Trifle. 

Ambushed 169 

French 154 

Lemon 169 

Tripe. 

Boiled 419 

Fricassee 419 

Trout, 

Bilked 247,255,256 

Brook 2,56 

Boiled brook 256 

B roiled brook 256 

Turnips. 

Baked 611 

Boiled 611 

Mashed 611 

With eggs 611 

Turnovers 488 

Fruit 188 

Vanity. 

Banana 366 

Chocolate 365 

Lemon 366 

Orange 365 

Strawberry 365 

Vanities 266 

Veal. 

And oysters 

Cutlets 437 

Fricassee 437 

Marbled 436 

Masked 460 

Molded 462 

Oysters 4.'?8 

Patties 463 

Pie 438 

Pot-pie 437 

Potted 436 

Relish 463 

Stew 439 

With macaroni 463 

Vkg ktables 602 

Bed of 408 

Color of....: 602 

Cutters 603 

Garnishes 

Greens 602 

Kettle 602 

Ragout 456 

Steamer for 603, 604 

Stews 611 

To cook 602 

To keep ..603 

To prepare 602 



Pago 

Water for 602 

Winter 612 

Venison. 

A la mode 335 

Broiled 333 

Fried 333 

Hashed 333 

Patties .333 

Roast 333 

Stewed 335 

Vinegar. 

Cayenne 514 

Celery 514, 636 

Cider 514 

Corn 630 

Chili 514 

Clover 514 

Cucumber 514 

Economical 636 

Elder flower 514 

Gooseberry 636 

Horse-radish 514 

Vol au vent. Straw- 
berry 496 

Wafer.** 44 

Kiss 154 

Sweet 45 

Waffles 44 

Without yeast 44 

Walnuts 45, 309 

Water. 

Apple 196 

Bath 548 

Best 185 

Currant 196 

Filtered 185 

Ice-cream soda 197 

Pine-apple 197 

Strawberry 197 

To cool 186 

Water-melon. 

Canned 102 

Weimarlies 45 

Wo.NDEiis, Andover 87 

Woodcock. 

Broiled 336 

Fried 336 

Roast 335 

Yeast 46 

Brookside 49 

Catnip 48 

Dry 47 

Hop 48 

Lightning 48 

Potato 48 

Potato-ball 49 

Saltless 50 

Without yeast . . .49, 879 

Yahoo 50 

Zulus 88 

Fruit 88 



INDEX TO COOKERY RECIPES. 



680 



INDEX SUPPLEMENTARY 



Page. 

Almonds, to buy 142 

Apples 638 

Peel in 638 

Sauce 638 

To cook 638 

To keep 638 

Varieties of 638 

Apricots. 
Gathering 642 

Babies. 
Milk for 672 

Bath-tub 674 

Bedding-plants 668 

Beef. 

To carve 654 

To cut up 643 

To care 644 

Bills of fare 
For washing day 1082 

Birds. 

Carving 656 

To ship 

Bites of serpents 

Of dogs 

Blackheads 

Blanch, 

Double 647 

Single 647 

Blanc-mange. 
Arrowroot 674 

Box 

Bread and cake 623 

Knife and spooo 623 

Bulbs. 

Dahlia 670 

Gladiolus 670 

Holland 666 

Oxalis 671 

Summer 670 

Tuberose 670 

Burns 

Alcohol for 673 

Castle saive for 673 

Calf's feet, to clean. .647 

Calf's head 

To bone 647 

To clean 647 

Carving 652 

Beef .654 

Chicken 652 

Fowl 652,655, 656 

Game 655 

Goose. 656 

Lamb 653 

Mutton 653 

Partridge 652, 656 

Pork 654 

Rabbit 655 

Turkey 655 

Veal 652,653,654 

Venison 654 

Chicken 

To bone 649 

To carve 1244 

To cut up 648 

Children 

Food ... 659 

Stockings 673 

Cookery 
Fren'-h terms in. 633, 636 



Crabs 
To dress 651 

Crumb 

Brush 623 

Cloth .....623 

Cupboard 625 

Baking 625 

Bread and cake 623 

Spoon 625 

Diet 

Errors in 658 

Fish 659 

For children 658 

In sickness 658 

Of children 658 

Of nervous persons.. 660 

Dish 
Warmer 624 

Drawer 625 

For raisius, etc 625 

For silver 625 

Handy 625 

Spice 625 

Eggs 

Poached 674 

Uncooked 674 

Fish 
To carve 656 

Fruit 

Gathering 641 

Shelves 640 

Garden, 

Flower 662 

Out-door 664 

To plant in 665 

Garnishes 

For cream 626 

For fish 626 

For fruit 627 

For game 628 

For ham 627 

For meat 627 

For poultry 628 

For salad 629 

For vegetables 629 

Suggestions for 632 

Time for 626 

Grapes 638. 642 

To keep 642 

Varieties of 638 

Hams, 

Philidelphia 644 

To garnish 630 

Hints for the well. . .657 

Ironing board 673 

Lard 
Trying 645 

Leaves, to press 

Extension 623 

Lemon, 
Best 6.39 

Lilies 665 

Lobsters 
To dress 651 

Mat 
Table 623 

Meats, 

Chopper 646 

Curing 644 

How to use 643 



Page- 
Salt for 644 

Sugar for 644 

Measures 622 

Mutton 

To cut up 647 

To carve 653 

Oranges, to buy 639 

Paper 
Cases 624 

Peaches 639 

Gathering 642 

Pears 639 

Gathering 641,642 

Pearls, to keep 

Plums 642 

Pork 

Pickled 644 

To carve 654 

Poultry, to dress 648 

To kill 6-18 

Ring, napkin 624 

Salads 

Fruit for 639 

Vegetables for 639 

Salve for burns. 
Castle 673 

Sausage. 

Beef 646 

Balogna 646 

Making 646 

Triple 647 

Sauces. 

Forflsh 632 

For game 632 

For meats 632 

For poultry 6,32 

Shell-fish 651 

Shelves, hanging 673 

Shrubs 669 

Side-board, dustless. .624 

Smokehouse 646 

Sweetbreads. 
To blanch 648 

Table 

Leaves 623 

Mats 623 

Ornament 624 

Turkey 

To carve 653, 655 

To bone 649,650 

To cut up 649 

Utensils, Ice cream.. .625 

Veal 

To carve 654 

To cut up 647 

Vegetable 

Salad 639, 640 

To keep 640 

Vines, climbing 667 

Vinegar, 

Apples for 637 

Cider 636 

Corn 636 

Economical 63^ 

Gooseberry 638 

Keg 638 

Making 637 

Molasses for 638 

Proportion for 638 

Weights and meas- 
ures .621,622 



C 82 89 



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